Damn bro, you got skills, I have a 99 Tahoe and suburban I have to change oil pan gasket on, and OMG there's no real videos, this is close as it gets, thanks
Actually our video replacing the oil pump in this engine is probably even closer, than this video was, since it's a little more directly related ua-cam.com/video/Y6MO20-SEiw/v-deo.html
That is a PTFE seal and adding oil will cause premature damage to it. Adding oil may be the case in some applications, especially in years past but this rear seal is meant to go on dry.
Hey slick trick on that pvc. I put those felpro gaskets in but the process we use is much different then the process you showed on oil pan gasket and retaining ring. We put the sealer all the way around the pan. On both sides of the gasket going around bolt holes with about a 1/4 inch bead. Then tighten bolts hand tight. Wait 1 hr and tighten down 19ft lbs on the small bolts and start on the studed corner bolts. They never leak
I thought, and please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m not an expert, or I wouldn’t be learning about how to do this- but isn’t the purpose of the seal center tool to locate the housing dead center, and you leave the bolts loose until it’s installed, THEN tighten down? I’m asking because I don’t know, but seems logical to not tighten anything until the seal is on and truly centered?
ugh should had watched your video first, I didn't know about the rear retainer gasket, I just put on the rear seal, can I get it back out carefully to replace this retainer gasket or does it slip around that inner piece to where I can still get to the retainer gasket?
I have a 98k1500 I have a leak coming from somewhere in the back of the motor that I can’t find it’s soaking my starter. I just did intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Everything looks dry on the top rear side of the motor but I can only see so much. Any ideas?
I do believe you're correct, doing a quick search I found a few sources that also said 8lbs, 18lbs would be too high www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/torquespecs.htm Looking at this under "Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Nut" suggests 11lbs, I've also seen 10-12 lbs on some other sites, so maybe I'd go with 11lbs if I were to do it right this second
@@VeryGoodGarage i wound up going the full 18, did them all in small sequences up to 18 with the res thread locker, everything seems fine, the 2 nuts that go in the oilpan for sure cant be over 8 because they bolt into the aluminum retainer not the block, the 4 going into the block i think are good at 18 because they go into the block not just into the retainer
If you are doing this job just drop the trans. Change your u joints on the driveshaft, change transmission mount, and get the right gaskets altogether this should only be 100$ with all of those parts listed
Great job on the video, I notice you used the harbor freight engine support bar, where did you place it? Struggling to find a good location to set it in my suburban for it to work.
Yeah we love that thing. We actually placed it on the fender lip on the passenger side and then on the PCM. The PCM is dead so that's why we use it lol. We use it again in our latest video ua-cam.com/video/g6zMD0Q8ocs/v-deo.htmlm37s
No it only works with 1987 and up. Below this year's, you'll have a two piece rear mean seal, which is kind of nice because you won't have to drop the transmission
The year the engine was built I believe, they switched to one piece around 1986. But the best way is probably just to check if you're right around that year
Damn that's no good, best I can say is just low speed with an impact gun (wrenching will be more likely to break it, but so will a very strong impact gun), maybe some PB Blaster and just keep trying it
Hey Genius… Where’s your eye protection? Hmm, drill two holes for two screw taps THEN Billy Butcher uses a claw hammer (for NAILS) to yank the seal?? Really?!? Nothing like UA-cam Car Animals on Parade- One last thought too? A single floor jack and nothing (ramps??!?) beneath those front wheels dangling the entire weight of the truck?? DANGER- Don’t do ANY OF THIS SHIT
You must be a troll. Dude did it in his driveway. Did pretty well if you ask me. I've seen "real" mechanics butcher it way worse and they have all the fancy tools and gadgets.
Damn bro, you got skills, I have a 99 Tahoe and suburban I have to change oil pan gasket on, and OMG there's no real videos, this is close as it gets, thanks
Actually our video replacing the oil pump in this engine is probably even closer, than this video was, since it's a little more directly related ua-cam.com/video/Y6MO20-SEiw/v-deo.html
I did this yesterday. This method was smoother than exlax.
😂
you should use a little oil before install so your seal won't burn up in the first hour of running
That is a PTFE seal and adding oil will cause premature damage to it. Adding oil may be the case in some applications, especially in years past but this rear seal is meant to go on dry.
Gotta love that sound of those pipes bro I have the same set up on my 87
Good job , smooth video. My turn went nicely because of it ... thanks !
Thank you for the video as I've only done the 2 piece variety in the past.
Thanks for the video! Informative and watchable. Nice exhaust, get that oil cooler line delete!
Oil cooler line delete huh, that's not something I've heard before, I'll look into it! Maybe even make a video
Hey slick trick on that pvc. I put those felpro gaskets in but the process we use is much different then the process you showed on oil pan gasket and retaining ring. We put the sealer all the way around the pan. On both sides of the gasket going around bolt holes with about a 1/4 inch bead. Then tighten bolts hand tight. Wait 1 hr and tighten down 19ft lbs on the small bolts and start on the studed corner bolts. They never leak
Damn that sounds thorough, if we notice it leaking again I'll definitely give that a shot
Felpro says only put rtv on 4 corners or it could cause premature failure of the gasket
@@coryhebel7288 You are correct there is no reason either use RTV or just a gasket with a couple daps of rtv on corners
Cool. Now I get to do it with a crankshaft in the way, and an oil filter housing that doesn't go down it goes forward
Good video enough light and easy to understand.
Great video! Good information and cool trick with the PVC pipe!
Nicely done,good knowledge. Same problem with 2000 k2500 chevy.
Thanks 👍
I need to do this but I really don’t feel like doing it
I thought, and please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m not an expert, or I wouldn’t be learning about how to do this- but isn’t the purpose of the seal center tool to locate the housing dead center, and you leave the bolts loose until it’s installed, THEN tighten down? I’m asking because I don’t know, but seems logical to not tighten anything until the seal is on and truly centered?
Is there a reason you didn't install the seal directly into the retainer after you took it off the engine, then put them back on as one piece?
I like your exhaust man
At the moment it's just long tube headers and cherry bombs lol
Great video. Finally!!!
The SBC 1 piece rear main seal started in 1986
Hey dude, solid video man 👍
Makita tools are the best!
Agreed
Awesome work guys!
ugh should had watched your video first, I didn't know about the rear retainer gasket, I just put on the rear seal, can I get it back out carefully to replace this retainer gasket or does it slip around that inner piece to where I can still get to the retainer gasket?
One of the main seal retainer bolts broke on my engine when i torqued them to 18ft lbs...seems, like too much but is it?
I have a 98k1500 I have a leak coming from somewhere in the back of the motor that I can’t find it’s soaking my starter. I just did intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Everything looks dry on the top rear side of the motor but I can only see so much. Any ideas?
Did it leak?
Love the video
Nice informative video 👍
come talk to your neighbors next door with the white genesis
Do you absolutely have to take the pan down to replace the retainer gasket?
For a one piece seal, yes
I was told 18ft lbs is too much and should be 8ft lbs for thr retainer? Not sure which to go with
I do believe you're correct, doing a quick search I found a few sources that also said 8lbs, 18lbs would be too high
www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/torquespecs.htm
Looking at this under "Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Nut" suggests 11lbs, I've also seen 10-12 lbs on some other sites, so maybe I'd go with 11lbs if I were to do it right this second
@@VeryGoodGarage i wound up going the full 18, did them all in small sequences up to 18 with the res thread locker, everything seems fine, the 2 nuts that go in the oilpan for sure cant be over 8 because they bolt into the aluminum retainer not the block, the 4 going into the block i think are good at 18 because they go into the block not just into the retainer
That makes sense! Oil pan ones for sure you are correct, you have to be careful
@@VeryGoodGarage yep, better safe than sorry lol
great tutorial… how long did this take you approximately…???
Maybe 3 hours? Taking the trans out is definitely the slowest part, but we've gotten pretty quick at that
If you are doing this job just drop the trans. Change your u joints on the driveshaft, change transmission mount, and get the right gaskets altogether this should only be 100$ with all of those parts listed
Great job on the video, I notice you used the harbor freight engine support bar, where did you place it? Struggling to find a good location to set it in my suburban for it to work.
Yeah we love that thing. We actually placed it on the fender lip on the passenger side and then on the PCM. The PCM is dead so that's why we use it lol. We use it again in our latest video ua-cam.com/video/g6zMD0Q8ocs/v-deo.htmlm37s
Would this be the same for a 70s Oldsmobile 350 or do you not know for sure
No it only works with 1987 and up. Below this year's, you'll have a two piece rear mean seal, which is kind of nice because you won't have to drop the transmission
Awesome thanks
No problem, Juan!
May I ask where you got the rear main seal with a sleeve to install it?
We have links to everything we used in the description! amzn.to/3uo7U9q
@@VeryGoodGarage thank you
How do you know if is a 1 or 2 piece?
The year the engine was built I believe, they switched to one piece around 1986. But the best way is probably just to check if you're right around that year
This is tbi engine???
Nope, it's a Vortec, so it came with the spider injectors, but it's since been swapped to a carb
Is this a 2 wd or 4 wd truck?
2wd sadly
@@VeryGoodGarage thanks for the response, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to drop the front diff to replace my oil pan gasket.
Oh true, I never considered having a front diff, sadly I would know anything about it :(
Mike Enstrom yes you do bud
@@rustypliers74 I did lol. Wasn't to bad either
Can’t get flexplate bolts off!!
Damn that's no good, best I can say is just low speed with an impact gun (wrenching will be more likely to break it, but so will a very strong impact gun), maybe some PB Blaster and just keep trying it
@@VeryGoodGarage got it off and everything back in. love the channel i subscribed!
What headers are those ?
They are pace setter headers from summit racing, but they don't appear to be available anymore 😔 www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-72C2260
Match ?
?
🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺👍🤠
Headers and glass packs. Clearly you do not live in California.
You got that right, good ol' Florida
Hey Genius… Where’s your eye protection? Hmm, drill two holes for two screw taps THEN Billy Butcher uses a claw hammer (for NAILS) to yank the seal?? Really?!? Nothing like UA-cam Car Animals on Parade-
One last thought too? A single floor jack and nothing (ramps??!?) beneath those front wheels dangling the entire weight of the truck??
DANGER- Don’t do ANY OF THIS SHIT
Single floor jack, are you nuts? You didn't see the 4 *12 tons each* jack stands down there?
You must be a troll. Dude did it in his driveway. Did pretty well if you ask me. I've seen "real" mechanics butcher it way worse and they have all the fancy tools and gadgets.
It was all good until you were using a claw hammer. I'm working on an engine not building a fence.
Yeah? What would you use instead?