As a 100% mobile detailer whose main focus is ceramic coating and paint corrections, I could not survive without the tips in this video. Circular motions for applying the coating and using a pad washer and damp pad shave hours off the process and deliver top notch results. I can do an exterior detail/decon with the clay towel and iron remover, single step machine polish and ceramic coat in a single day in the comfort of my client's own driveway. Thank you, Yvan!
Thank you for the tips! Disclaimer: I only wash one car, mine. Instead of washing mitts between panels, I put six mitts in a soapy bucket. I use one side of each to wash two adjacent panels top to bottom. Then I flip it over and wash two more adjacent panels. Then the mitt goes in an empty bucket and I grab a new mitt out of the soapy bucket. It usually only takes five mitts, with the sixth as a backup in case I drop one on the ground. At the end, all of the mitts go into the clothes washer along with all of the other microfiber products I used in the process, and they all get washed (gentle cycle) and dried (low heat). I don't need to wash anything but the car during the process. Mitts are cheaper than time.
Thank God this channel exists; kept thinking to myself after years of watching car detailing videos ‘all of this seems like overkill’, obnoxious almost and you guys clearly explained that here.
I've done testing with foaming the car, followed by a contact wash vs. foaming the car, let it dwell, rinse, foam again, contact wash, and the latter option keeps my wash bucket way cleaner. I use clear buckets, and I can see how much less grit is in my bucket utilizing the latter method.
Dont skip the 2nd foam. use your high ph cleaner first and after a dwell and rinse hit it with strait foam for LUBRICATION. care care is a marathon not a sprint. I use only the best.@@Zoranurai13
@@Zoranurai13 I mix KC gentle snow foam with KC Green Star and I get 10.5 ph in the foam canon. I use half for the pretreatment and the other half for the contact wash
5:05 lol! Thanks for the laughter Yvan 😄 Completely agree with the swapping pads. Ive saved so much time just by using the pad washer every after one panel. Also as a 4x4 enthusiast, im happy to say that i also apply tire dressing by using flagged tip brush. So easy to apply on knobby sidewalls compared to a hexagon or small sponge type applicator. To me, the most overrated method in carwash, is the wheel wash using several type of brushes every time. Sure you can clean the barrels with a long wheel brush, use a paint brush-type for the nuts and crannies, or even a lugnut brush, iron decon, APC, foam. But if you regularly wash your car, all you need is APC, small mitt for the wheels, and a flagged tip brush for the rubber. You guys are teaching us how to efficiently clean and wash our cars eeeeverytime, thank you so much, Yvan and Nick! 🤘🏽 Keep it up 💪🏽
You had me at “preservation” and “shiny scratches” …detailing Gandalf sounds very knowledgeable, this is my first video, I’m gonna keep going but could it be I finally found the most complete diy automobile paint detailing in here? Will keep you posted, thanks guys.
This has been a life changer for me! I have a LOT of huge trucks with colossal, knobby tires in my market area and that tiny foam applicator wasn't cutting it for me. Initially I thought the flag tipped brush was going to be too sloppy but legit on the first tire my technique was locked in and my accuracy was pinpoint. I'm NEVER going back. From low-profile tires to mudders it's the ft brush every time.
Thanx for the content. Agreed the foam rinse foam is a go to. My biggest time saver when doing regular washes is rather than using the traditional 2 bucket method, my second bucket is empty at the beginning. My soap bucket has 4-6 micro fiber mitts, instead of rinsing and then re-soaking I just throw the mitt in the empty bucket and grab a new one then take all the "used" ones, rinse them and throw them in the washing machine on eco mode with an extra rinse, air dry them and put them away.
I wash the wheel wells when I wash the tires and wheels. Makes the finished car look so much cleaner with clean wheel wells. The plastic and carpet look darker and mat which I feel helps frame the wheels and helps the paint pop and look shiny. Especially effective on light coloured cars. So I foam the car, tires, and wheel wells let it dwell then rinse. Foam again, wash the wheels, tires and wheel wells and rinse and foam the paint again for the contact wash. I live in Taiwan and we get lots of industrial fallout and the trees leave a soft sap that will stain your paint if left in the sun to bake. The third foam helps soften and dissolve the sap and makes removing the sap easier.
What I use for tire dressing is just a 2-inch natural bristle paint brush. Between 1 and 2 dollars from the hardware store, and they deal with all the sidewall patterns and ridges beautifully.
Foam, rinse, foam, contact wash with clean mitt or microfiber towel, one wash bucket, do not put a dirty mitt or fiber towel back in the wash bucket. Always use a new clean mitt or towel to wash a section at a time. Only need 4 or 5 clean mitts or microfiber towels to wash most vehicles. Do a section, put the dirty/used mitt or towel in a different empty bucket to be washed later. Take the new one, dip it in your clean wash bucket, wash another section, discard it in the bucket with the other dirty mitts and towels, and repeat. Then rinse, blow off most of the water with an air gun or leaf blower, then dry with microfiber and a drying aid, some type of a quick detail spray to help lubricate the surface and add glossy shine to the vehicle while drying it.
This is a question thats off topic but I’m wandering if there is a way of cleaning a window that has been pitted, I see a lot of cars in Las Vegas that the front windshield has little tiny sparkly pits and no matter how I’ve cleaned them you still see those pits, any way to polish that out?
What are you're thoughts on using gas line anti freeze with a micro fiber towel to remove fresh overspray, has always worked well for me, also removes tree sap & other harmful contaminants.
I’ve been researching car care methods after getting a new car. The 2 bucket method with a foam cannon sounded like overkill so I’m glad I found this video. Thanks!
Hi guys, best thing I ever bought a pad washer (lake 4000), I'm in my mid 60s and still detailing, and I go to is the rotary just let the machine do the work, most vehicles I detail are pre clear coat one stage paint. Keep up the good work and info
Yeah, buddy. The FRF method has been my go-to for the last year. I've saved so much product and most importantly TIME. I have an LLC for my detail company but I only take appointments on the weekend so saving time gets me back to my Saturday and Sunday. My family has no complaints.
@@diydetailofficialhow do save product? I see more soap is being used. Foaming has been around for eons but only recently has it claimed that is removing enough grit to not do the 2 bucket method.
Brilliant guys. Seriously, I’ve just purchased a new, second hand gem, that I want to preserve, so I have had a deep dive into youtube detailing. You blokes are the best information, without any BS. Simply excellent advice. So very well done and keep up the good work - from Queensland, Australia. Sláinte Patrick H
In the first minute of the video you were applying ceramic coating on a TRX hood decal. My 16 Challenger has black decal stripes on hood and almost the whole roof is covered with a decal. What’s the best way to clean and protect the decals?
Clean with DIY Detail Rinseless Wash, decontaminate with DIY Detail Iron Remover , continue with DIY Detail Water Spot Remover, then ceramic coat for protection
I'm so glad I found this channel and this video through Pan's channel. I used to dread detailing my car. I would start early Saturday to get it washed and clayed, then spend Sunday trying to polish and wax. It almost always take up my whole weekend and I was not doing anything other than working on the car. I would even bike or walk to lunch because I didn't want to drive the car in the middle of everything. Most importantly, I would be so exhausted and sore after the whole ordeal. I still did it because I wanted the car to look great but it did wear down my passion over time. After I replaced my car with an SUV I actually never properly detailed it because of the amount of work and time I'd spent. I would just hand wash then a coat of wax at the beginning of spring and then again at mid-fall, while just going through automatic car wash in between every other month just to save time and effort. The car is clean but it's not great, and I can still see swirl marks since the day I took delivery (yes it's kind of like Pan's new car that came pre-swirled). Now that I saw this video and Pan's on prepping and detailing his new car, I think I'll invest in some tools and pick up detailing again on mine. Thank you so much for your advices.
Morning guys....great informative video...Question; my car is quoted with ceramic DuraSlic HG, looks great. I have a small scratch on the fender, not deep but enough that it catches my eye every time. Any advice on how I should approach this on my attempts to remove it would be appreciated. Regards, Edmond M.
Been learning from your videos. Ordered your 8 year coating and decon clay towel and it arrived today. Getting a list together of additional DIY Detail products to order so I can clean, polish and ceramic coat 2 cars early fall. Wish me luck. Is there a place to post pics of the finished results for DIY detail?
At what speed level do you recommend to use on the polis machine. i will guess on the slow side to reduce the heat fraction. Thank you for the tips! As always enjoyed the vid, learned tons. Thank you guys for sharing your knowledge 🏆🏆❤❤
Howdy! I've been relearning how to buff/polish without an 8k rpm angle grinder while also learning paint correction. Since I've been watching your videos, I'm learning all about one of your topics. If it doesn't look right, apply more pressure. OMG I'm having a hard time kicking that bad habit. I picked up a 7" cordless rotary polisher, Meguiar's M85 and M210, TW hybrid ceramic acrylic polish and my 20 year old black vehicle is shining once again. Thank you very much for your honesty in this video, and also simply thank you for creating and publishing it!
I love this video seriously so much insight! Actual real clarity, knowledge, and experienced being showcased and explained, great video!!! Thank you, you two!
Thank you for the video - I have searched for information about waxing an older car with rock chips on the front and hood. I understand paint correction, though not really a viable option on a car with 225,000 miles. Regular wax turns white and looks bad. What would you recommend in this case? I have heard of colored waxes - my car is red. Do they work or a waste of time and money. It is an older car, but still want to make it look its best. Thank you
Question about polishing with a damp pad (If you guys see this): Whenever I'm using your gold standard polish I wash the pad just like you guys. However, I recently decided to use the Rupes Uno Advanced, which says to not get it wet and has to sit and cure for the coating. Can I still use a damp pad for the AIO products?
Try a paintbrush to apply tire and even trim dressing. If you know how to paint it's the quickest, most accurate way. Been doing it for 25 years. You can even buy disposable boar hair "chip" brushes and throw them away afterwards.
@@diydetailofficial I so appreciate all of your incredible and thorough information! I am starting a small detailing business in the Nashville area and am looking to get a hose (and a foam-gun, probably the Adam's version) rather than a pressure-washer. Is there something you would recommend? There must be something a little lighter and less cumbersome than a garden hose out there. Also-- would you say a 50 foot hose would be the right length? This is for mobile detailing-- something I can throw in the back of our old Range Rover Sport with all my other supplies. Thank you so much for your kind help! You and Pan the Organizer are my heroes... All best, Dana :D
I have been a dealership detailer for a couple years but I actually wanted to be good at it. I’ve done full paint correction on a car in less than 12 hours out of pure necessity and just stumbled on using my pad washer every panel.
I did the circular motion with my ceramic coating and it works with any coating. I had 0 issues with high spots and I used way less prosuct. You can do circular motion with a microfiber applicator too, same good results.
Does the pad wash work the same for MF Pads as it does for the foam pads or should MF pads be swapped out once they are saturated with product? Also, is compressed air not a good idea for them as well?
Do you need to prime foam or microfiber pads? Does the pad washer work with both foam and microfiber pads? If you just have one 5-in polisher would you get a 15 mm or 21 mm? Thanks for all the info.
Hello, great video again thank you for you work. I was thinking of putting rinselless to foam canon to speed up the process of covering the car with it (using typical 1:256 dilution). WIth sprayer bottle it takes ages. What do you think of it? Can you demonstrate it in a video?
Good content. Whats your experience and thoughts on waterless car wash products? If you do use them what product do you recommend and how do you use it?
When doing foam rinse foam, do you use the foam cannon on the pressure washer for the pre soak? I am getting the active 2.0 and this is my first time with a pressure washer, so sorry if I am stupid.
@@diydetailofficial thanks. I was thinking of using gsf with gc from khoch, for prewash. Good idea, or would lift be better on a car that hasn’t been washed in a year.
This might be a stupid question, but can you mix a bit of PH plus or minus to your foam cannon to increase or decrease PH of your shampoo? The PH plus or minus is a spa additive….great channel 👍
I attempted my fisrt ceramc/graphine coating on one panel of my new covered snowmobile trailer this weekend using the cross hatch method. It turned out ok, bit i did get a noticable line ( high spot) across the whole section. On my next section I'd like to try your circular method, but in the video i I noticed you were wiping the coating off immediately after applying. Do I not need to let the coating flash before leveling and wiping it off? Also how can I get rid of the high spot line from the panel I coated already?
I know you have addressed this in some videos. But curious, I have a 1.5 yr old ceramic coat with very minor swirls on some gloss black parts. Also on some panels. Very light. Can I use like an Rupes Uno Advanced product and polish with a foam pad. Also do you have a product like that, which has a ceramic compound in it and is safe to polish with?
I would reach out to the manufacturer, in this case rupes, and ask them. You can for sure use Gold Standard Polish for a light polish on coated paint, but it's always ideal to re coat or at least put on some Ceramic Gloss after. It does depend on how aggressively you polish (pad, speed, pressure etc). We just have the one polishing liquid, and it doesn't have any fillers
Yvan has said that not all iron removers are suitable for the clay towel, is there something in the ingredients that I should be looking for if it’s not currently the DIY product that I’m using?
Threw my clay bar out. It marred the hell out of my last car and without a machine polisher recovery by hand was painstaking. Now just good practice low contact washes combined with glazes and waxes/sealants keeps paint looking brilliant. It’ll take a long time until a polish is needed.
I mobile detail by myself for around 2 years now. I use two of the "clay" Towels and if i had to guess its the exact same ones they are using in the clips here same pattern /color combo in anycase. Ive used other ones as well. I'll say this one thing ive learned is that no two cars are the same (weather per day /driver) Even if same make model and owner between two cars .And Ive learned I know nothing about this business tho ive done 60 or 70 cars not counting my own /family member's vehics since starting I still learn more n more . All that said ...the towel is easier and faster than Claybars ....but the Slickness obtained from using a claybar vs the towels (ive used /had anyway) The claybar wins. WIndows? Again the clay bars even the cheap junky blue ones from amazon take weirdness of windows (Anti fog clients sadly applied to the inside of windshields) water spots ...blade trails or imprints That the towels have zero impact on. The towels > nothing but polish +iron remover +wash . I don't even see them as a replacement for claybars so much as a replacement for wash mits heh as I basically use them with my foam during that portion of the wash. Sometimes i'll use th em with a quick detailer after the vehicle has been coated during a maintainance wash if the client opts for that service. But They shouldn't really be compared to clay bars in my opinion that no one asked for . As they aren't really in the same class . Claybars add a slickness that Im unsure at this point how to obtain without them and as my clients are having me detail daily drivers most of which aren';t in a garage the Synthetic towels won't remove road paint transfer for instance or well anything u can't rub off with your index i wouldn't count on those getting off either lol starting to think I use them purely due to not wanting to waste the money i spent on the two sets i have (and i do find th em easier than the wash mits to clean /maintain and do as good a job during contact wash)
I agree. Clay towels or whatever you wanna call it, can't remove things conventional clay bar can. You need that paint spotless, especially if you are wrapping the car, or applying PPF. When doing normal wash-clay-wax - sure clay towels are great, because they won't marr the paint like a clay bar. But when I am doing paint correction, I do not mind light marring since I will be polishing the paint anyways.
. Just sharing what I've experienced which again is admittedly limited. Hope I didn't come off as argumentative as i wouldnt presume too.. I enjoy the content and information u guys are putting out there.
If you use the pad washer, at the end of the detail you don't have to use some other cleaner? What's the highest speed you should use with the Gold Standard Polish? A damp pad with any compound or polish will cut better?
This method is further improved with the use of some plush microfiber towels. Then you get 8 clean sides per wash media and are never using potentially dirty media to clean a panel.
For me, as a hobbiest who just have (hopefully had) this mentality of "I just have to try this and that", the most overrated processes I've found is: 1) Washing with soap vs. a rinseless. A rinseless works, even in Norway where I live, but people don't seem to believe me 😔 I'm tired of rinsing suds... 2) Using a clay bar. It's inefficient, but I agree: sometimes you have to use it, but in general you don't. Use a clay towel. 3) Cleaning wheel arches. Lasts maximum a day, and never seems to be perfectly clean on a daily driver anyway. 4) Using specific interior products 😂😂😂 My God I have tried many interior products. I remember I was quite shocked when I saw the interior of my friends car, and I asked him what he used to do when he detailed the interior: "Oh, I don't clean the interior, I believe my girlfriend just use a damped microfiber towel." The interior of the car looked so good 😂 Keep on the good work guys 🇳🇴
Hey Yvan, in your video you mentioned a few steps, foam, rinse, foam, and agitate (bucket/hand wash) I was curious when you would use the rinseless wash in these steps. Or would it be the solution you're using in the bucket for the hand wash step?
Can I use just water in my lake country 4000 pad washer? What cleaners are safe to use in my pad washer? Or should I just stick with the lake county powder cleaner? Great video!
I use the same brush for applying the tire dressing that you do. Was wondering if I need to wash it out after using it or is it better to leave it be with the dressing in it? If it does need cleaning, is the renseless wash the right way to clean it or should I use some all clean or something else? Thanks for the help.
In England cars get a high amount of road tar stuck to the lower areas sill rockers bottom of bumpers so if you use the decontamination towel its wrecked wont clean up so at what point in the process do DIY tackle this
I love the last question, and I did just purchase the brush. I have a cloth covered sponge that responds to my fingers well and I never get anything on the rims. I work it in and am good to go. It never takes me any time and I get a week out of it but probably more if I went longer between washes. I’m looking forward to trying the brush though. I do think a lot of folks overcomplicate things. Meaning if it was dirty and a used a tire rag that was clean, I’m sure it would look great and hold up.
new to your videos. I like your delivery and knowledge. I appreciate you. I've always been into cars, but taking care of them has always been a learning curve. I am really listening and trying to be more like you guys. Thx for a SHINNY bunch of cars
Hi guys, I have a question about the clay towel. If I want to use an iron remover as lube, would I just dip the towel in a separate bucket to clean it off? Since I can't dip it into the rinseless bucket
I prefer these types of videos. Yes. The pad washer is fantastic. I just hated hand washing pads after a polishing. It's hard on your hands, too. There is something to cleaning the pad in the washer and cooling down the pad. Thanks guys for the video.
Hi guys, great video - my biggest bug bear… break disc flash rusting during washing, especially if you have black wheels. Know anything else other than BH Atom Mac? Tried varying the concentration, applying and blow drying prior to wash, apply during wash, end of wash, always get a flash over and the first time you go down the road the pristine black has a brown tinge on the barrel and spokes, save for washing and immediately driving to pad dry the discs, any other tips?
I would love to see a video showing Yvan’s process for completing an interior detail in a well used vehicle. Not sure if you have done such video but that’s where I struggle with efficiency. During the winter I seem to get mainly interior jobs and some jobs take me longer than I’d like them to. Would love to see what I could do for increasing my efficiency
The best thing to increase your efficiency is take a video of you doing a job, then watch it to see where time is getting away from you. Like a professional athlete, you need to evaluate your performance.
Ive used the foam, rinse, wash method and there is usually still a noticeable layer of contaminants on my paint. Is there something else I should be doing?
I’m not in the detail business,but I’m all for making it easier and less time. My 65 Mustang looks GREAT with ceramic coating . My Terrain looks great without ceramic coating. So easy 😊
Correct/ Clay Bar is not always needed. Polishing/buffing your vehicle use the correct pad with the proper tool, as said pressure creates heat and is not good. Auto paint layers are very thin as in Mils. or a third of the thickness of your fingernail, it is like food plastic saran wrap but thinner. Always use fresh and clean microfiber towels with some type of lubricant or wetness and never use a dry microfiber towel, even when drying off your vehicle as the air will evaporate the moisture. I dry my car with Worx WG521 electric leaf blower with a microfiber towel wrapped and taped on the end of the nozzle in case of accidental touching. It has not happened but better safe than sorry. It is light weight but you should wear ear plugs or muffs for hearing protection, including eye protection when using compressed air. I love the foam, rinse, foam and clean method using two - 5 gallon buckets with a strainer on the bottom so you don't pick up the dirt when dipping your mitt or wash rag in the bucket. Have at least 2 mitts or more, the lower section of your vehicle typically has more filth and needs to be changed for a cleaner mitt. Start wash from top to bottom - common sense. Just like you taking a shower as water runs top to bottom. Waxing in a circular motion, that makes sense, pads are round, not made straight and narrow or shaped like a square. Things are perceived as being swirls in the sunlight, our eyes and pupils are round, the sun is round, the cones that are part of our eye optics. Okay, I need a break, someone called out and said Swirl Ice Cream or Ice Cream Swirl. It takes me about 1 hour to wash my car and if I do a complete wax and polish takes up to another 3 or 4 hours. It is easier to clean the interior of a vehicle than the exterior because I don't eat or drink in my car, non-smoker, no pets, rarely have a passenger, vacuum and wipe things down practically every week. Winter used the All-weather rubber floor mats and clean them once a week, used 3M Scotchguard on the floor carpet ... more like thin all season outdoor carpeting nowadays installed in cars. Floormats are now made with a polyester/nylon material instead of a cloth weave and shag. So they are even easier to clean. Lots of cheap ass plastic. Faux-leather seats easy to clean too, hate the creases - wrinkles that occur as better off with real leather. Automobiles are built with cheapest materials as possible, no quality, just quantity. What we are paying for is the electronic maybe or may not work safety features and the 10 to 20 airbags that are expensive. It's crazy to think that vehicles built 40 to 60 years ago were better, and in fact they are better than today's trash-mobiles. Back then, easy to keep a car looking good with washing and waxing by hand. Today, got all these Car Care products and most don't even work as intended or described. Auto Detailing is expensive so don't over emphasize just make life simple.
If I've never deconned my Jeep, never used a clay bar, or whatever, just used Chem Guy's products, like foam cannon with Mr. Suds, diablo wheel cleaner, and tire shine etc. Should I use a clay bar? I just bought the kit for it, but I also don't want to polish the Jeep because frankly, I am not that invested in DIY car detailing. I just want to have the water run off fast and not have it sitting and drying. Is it worth my time to clay bar? I also want to put a coating on it using Adams spray on graphene. I watched a video from Adams where it took him 13 minutes to clay bar an entire car, but I feel like that car has been properly detailed and coated. Any tips for making the process quick?
I would love to use foam rinse foam method. I think it may be a bit risky for me given my footprint. I don't have an indoor wash bay so all washing is done in the driveway in direct sunlight. Letting the foam dwell for just a few minutes may be bad. On that note though, I agree it's most likely the easiest option for those that don't have to worry too much about using more product on one vehicle. (When I first started detailing I was pinching pennies.)
If no pad washer is available, can I use my the pad on one panel then give it a quick spur with a pad brush, use on another panel then when it starts getting too gunked up then switch to a new pad?
Fantastic video, once again. Would you recommend applying foam over a layer of iron remover and then decontaminating with the clay towel? Another time saver perhaps?
It’s been two years since I last had my car polished and protected and I’m starting to notice some scratches and lack of hydrophobic qualities -would you go for a yellow or red pad for a light polish step?
Like Ivan said, decon basically. Coatings are porous, all clog eventually. Water spot remover, iron remover, rinse contact wash. Start with the least aggressive approach, polishing again would be high on the scale of aggressiveness in this particular situation.
I had a fellow detailed shadow me to see how I did things and see rinselss wash. I told him the exact same thing about not hitting the car with pressure washer first. What sense does it make to take the car at its dirtiest and hit it with the most pressure?
im a diy detailer. i do not own a pad washer. do i have to wash my pad every time im done doing a small section of paint? how long until i wash my pad? because i usually wash it with dish soap and dry it spinning it with my polisher.
I missed the Premier! But these tips are the start of new techniques for the advancement of chemicals. Some old techniques may be best for previous generation products but, we have to move on and Thank you Yvan and Nick!
As a 100% mobile detailer whose main focus is ceramic coating and paint corrections, I could not survive without the tips in this video. Circular motions for applying the coating and using a pad washer and damp pad shave hours off the process and deliver top notch results. I can do an exterior detail/decon with the clay towel and iron remover, single step machine polish and ceramic coat in a single day in the comfort of my client's own driveway. Thank you, Yvan!
Great to hear!
Is a single step machine polish outdoors okay to do?
Exactly
@DonzAutoDetail if you do 1 panel at a time yes.
I appreciate acknowledging the importance of minimizing the aches and pains on the body when detailing
Thank you.
It's all about efficiency and risk management with Yvan. That goes for everything from clear coat preservation to human preservation.
Thank you for the tips! Disclaimer: I only wash one car, mine. Instead of washing mitts between panels, I put six mitts in a soapy bucket. I use one side of each to wash two adjacent panels top to bottom. Then I flip it over and wash two more adjacent panels. Then the mitt goes in an empty bucket and I grab a new mitt out of the soapy bucket. It usually only takes five mitts, with the sixth as a backup in case I drop one on the ground. At the end, all of the mitts go into the clothes washer along with all of the other microfiber products I used in the process, and they all get washed (gentle cycle) and dried (low heat). I don't need to wash anything but the car during the process. Mitts are cheaper than time.
Great tip.
I do the same, except I use MF towels.
@@The_CyberzAhhh the good old Larry AmmoNYC move
Thank God this channel exists; kept thinking to myself after years of watching car detailing videos ‘all of this seems like overkill’, obnoxious almost and you guys clearly explained that here.
Thank you!
Gents, love the no nonsense, practical approach to car washing, polishing and coating. As always enjoyed the vid, learned tons. Awesome job! Cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it
I've done testing with foaming the car, followed by a contact wash vs. foaming the car, let it dwell, rinse, foam again, contact wash, and the latter option keeps my wash bucket way cleaner. I use clear buckets, and I can see how much less grit is in my bucket utilizing the latter method.
Skip the second foam as it is really overkill. But using a good alkaline foam-dwell-rinse is good practice
Great point!
Dont skip the 2nd foam. use your high ph cleaner first and after a dwell and rinse hit it with strait foam for LUBRICATION. care care is a marathon not a sprint. I use only the best.@@Zoranurai13
Agreed
@@Zoranurai13 I mix KC gentle snow foam with KC Green Star and I get 10.5 ph in the foam canon. I use half for the pretreatment and the other half for the contact wash
5:05 lol! Thanks for the laughter Yvan 😄
Completely agree with the swapping pads. Ive saved so much time just by using the pad washer every after one panel. Also as a 4x4 enthusiast, im happy to say that i also apply tire dressing by using flagged tip brush. So easy to apply on knobby sidewalls compared to a hexagon or small sponge type applicator.
To me, the most overrated method in carwash, is the wheel wash using several type of brushes every time. Sure you can clean the barrels with a long wheel brush, use a paint brush-type for the nuts and crannies, or even a lugnut brush, iron decon, APC, foam. But if you regularly wash your car, all you need is APC, small mitt for the wheels, and a flagged tip brush for the rubber.
You guys are teaching us how to efficiently clean and wash our cars eeeeverytime, thank you so much, Yvan and Nick! 🤘🏽 Keep it up 💪🏽
Thank you.
You had me at “preservation” and “shiny scratches” …detailing Gandalf sounds very knowledgeable, this is my first video, I’m gonna keep going but could it be I finally found the most complete diy automobile paint detailing in here? Will keep you posted, thanks guys.
Welcome aboard!
The brush for tire dressing .. what a brilliant idea!! Thank you guys for sharing your knowledge and making detailing more fun!!
Thanks for watching!
This has been a life changer for me! I have a LOT of huge trucks with colossal, knobby tires in my market area and that tiny foam applicator wasn't cutting it for me. Initially I thought the flag tipped brush was going to be too sloppy but legit on the first tire my technique was locked in and my accuracy was pinpoint. I'm NEVER going back. From low-profile tires to mudders it's the ft brush every time.
Thank you.
I just buy a €1 sponge, cut it up into 6 or 8 bits and use them, lasts a few years to get through them.
Which one it's better? PPF or CERAMIC COATING?
Thanx for the content. Agreed the foam rinse foam is a go to. My biggest time saver when doing regular washes is rather than using the traditional 2 bucket method, my second bucket is empty at the beginning. My soap bucket has 4-6 micro fiber mitts, instead of rinsing and then re-soaking I just throw the mitt in the empty bucket and grab a new one then take all the "used" ones, rinse them and throw them in the washing machine on eco mode with an extra rinse, air dry them and put them away.
Great tip!
Agree 100% with the one bucket and always using a clean mitt or towel to wash.
Really my favourite detailing content on the web and my go to products now! Brought the fun back to detailing and upped my efficiency ten fold!
Wow, Thank you.
Back when I was a detail tech, my go to for tire dressing was a cheap paint brush....worked great. Awesome video BTW..great tips.
Thanks 👍
I wash the wheel wells when I wash the tires and wheels. Makes the finished car look so much cleaner with clean wheel wells. The plastic and carpet look darker and mat which I feel helps frame the wheels and helps the paint pop and look shiny. Especially effective on light coloured cars.
So I foam the car, tires, and wheel wells let it dwell then rinse. Foam again, wash the wheels, tires and wheel wells and rinse and foam the paint again for the contact wash. I live in Taiwan and we get lots of industrial fallout and the trees leave a soft sap that will stain your paint if left in the sun to bake. The third foam helps soften and dissolve the sap and makes removing the sap easier.
Good tips.
What is the brand/style of applicator pad you used at the beginning of the video showing the circular application of the ceramic coating?
Thank you
It’s the applicator that comes with every DIY Detail coating.
What I use for tire dressing is just a 2-inch natural bristle paint brush. Between 1 and 2 dollars from the hardware store, and they deal with all the sidewall patterns and ridges beautifully.
Excellent
Glad to see another person using the same as myself.
I spray universal high shine and don't touch it at all
@@Rabbit.760 And get overspray on the wheels, and half of your product just blows away in the air.
Some of us have more sense.
@DjNikGnashers I mean for the product you use and know about maybe. If you didn't think of that, then ya, only some of us indeed, have more sense
Foam, rinse, foam, contact wash with clean mitt or microfiber towel, one wash bucket, do not put a dirty mitt or fiber towel back in the wash bucket. Always use a new clean mitt or towel to wash a section at a time. Only need 4 or 5 clean mitts or microfiber towels to wash most vehicles. Do a section, put the dirty/used mitt or towel in a different empty bucket to be washed later. Take the new one, dip it in your clean wash bucket, wash another section, discard it in the bucket with the other dirty mitts and towels, and repeat. Then rinse, blow off most of the water with an air gun or leaf blower, then dry with microfiber and a drying aid, some type of a quick detail spray to help lubricate the surface and add glossy shine to the vehicle while drying it.
Nice process
Seriously this really make sense! Thanks guys!
Thank you.
This is a question thats off topic but I’m wandering if there is a way of cleaning a window that has been pitted, I see a lot of cars in Las Vegas that the front windshield has little tiny sparkly pits and no matter how I’ve cleaned them you still see those pits, any way to polish that out?
Replacement of the windshield is often more economical.
What are you're thoughts on using gas line anti freeze with a micro fiber towel to remove fresh overspray, has always worked well for me, also removes tree sap & other harmful contaminants.
It can be a little rough on a sealant, but yes works
I’ve been researching car care methods after getting a new car. The 2 bucket method with a foam cannon sounded like overkill so I’m glad I found this video. Thanks!
@@tracimaxson1247 Thank you.
Hi guys, best thing I ever bought a pad washer (lake 4000), I'm in my mid 60s and still detailing, and I go to is the rotary just let the machine do the work, most vehicles I detail are pre clear coat one stage paint.
Keep up the good work and info
Thanks for sharing!
Glad To See Another 60+ Guy Doing IT Well...😊
Between you guys and Pan the organizer I’ve switched from
A two bucket method, trying and becoming a firm believer to foam rinse foam method!
That is awesome!
I might just practice this today. Foam…rinse…foam…start hand washing from top to bottom…done deal
Yeah, buddy. The FRF method has been my go-to for the last year. I've saved so much product and most importantly TIME. I have an LLC for my detail company but I only take appointments on the weekend so saving time gets me back to my Saturday and Sunday. My family has no complaints.
Excellent
@@diydetailofficialhow do save product? I see more soap is being used. Foaming has been around for eons but only recently has it claimed that is removing enough grit to not do the 2 bucket method.
How often do you to use the Decontamination Towel? When you use the towel, you have correct /polishing the car?
When needed, following our instructions, no need to polish
Brilliant guys. Seriously, I’ve just purchased a new, second hand gem, that I want to preserve, so I have had a deep dive into youtube detailing. You blokes are the best information, without any BS. Simply excellent advice. So very well done and keep up the good work - from Queensland, Australia. Sláinte Patrick H
Great to hear!
What is this 555 method for deep scratch? I dont see the link anywhere
ua-cam.com/video/_PeDOW30xRI/v-deo.html
In the first minute of the video you were applying ceramic coating on a TRX hood decal. My 16 Challenger has black decal stripes on hood and almost the whole roof is covered with a decal. What’s the best way to clean and protect the decals?
Clean with DIY Detail Rinseless Wash, decontaminate with DIY Detail Iron Remover , continue with DIY Detail Water Spot Remover, then ceramic coat for protection
I'm so glad I found this channel and this video through Pan's channel. I used to dread detailing my car. I would start early Saturday to get it washed and clayed, then spend Sunday trying to polish and wax. It almost always take up my whole weekend and I was not doing anything other than working on the car. I would even bike or walk to lunch because I didn't want to drive the car in the middle of everything. Most importantly, I would be so exhausted and sore after the whole ordeal. I still did it because I wanted the car to look great but it did wear down my passion over time.
After I replaced my car with an SUV I actually never properly detailed it because of the amount of work and time I'd spent. I would just hand wash then a coat of wax at the beginning of spring and then again at mid-fall, while just going through automatic car wash in between every other month just to save time and effort. The car is clean but it's not great, and I can still see swirl marks since the day I took delivery (yes it's kind of like Pan's new car that came pre-swirled). Now that I saw this video and Pan's on prepping and detailing his new car, I think I'll invest in some tools and pick up detailing again on mine. Thank you so much for your advices.
Wow, thanks for sharing, you can also join our Facebook group
bit.ly/DIYDetailFacebookGroup
Morning guys....great informative video...Question; my car is quoted with ceramic DuraSlic HG, looks great. I have a small scratch on the fender, not deep but enough that it catches my eye every time. Any advice on how I should approach this on my attempts to remove it would be appreciated. Regards, Edmond M.
You will need to polish that area and coat again.
You guys have become my new "go-to" for detailing. Thought I'd let you know.
Thank you.
Been learning from your videos. Ordered your 8 year coating and decon clay towel and it arrived today. Getting a list together of additional DIY Detail products to order so I can clean, polish and ceramic coat 2 cars early fall. Wish me luck. Is there a place to post pics of the finished results for DIY detail?
Yes, our facebook group, bit.ly/DIYDetailFacebookGroup
@@diydetailofficial Thank You!
At what speed level do you recommend to use on the polis machine. i will guess on the slow side to reduce the heat fraction. Thank you for the tips! As always enjoyed the vid, learned tons. Thank you guys for sharing your knowledge 🏆🏆❤❤
Speed one for the Rotary, speed 3 for the DA
@diydetailofficial thank you very much for your recommendation you're the best teacher 😊 ❤️
@diydetailofficial hello from Portugal 🇵🇹 😍
@diydetailofficial I'm about to receive my new car bmw m240i and going to do all the steps with polishe
I stopped doing the cross-hatching on coatings a few years ago and was keeping it to myself! Glad to hear my theory in practice is shared!
Wonderful!
Howdy! I've been relearning how to buff/polish without an 8k rpm angle grinder while also learning paint correction. Since I've been watching your videos, I'm learning all about one of your topics. If it doesn't look right, apply more pressure. OMG I'm having a hard time kicking that bad habit. I picked up a 7" cordless rotary polisher, Meguiar's M85 and M210, TW hybrid ceramic acrylic polish and my 20 year old black vehicle is shining once again. Thank you very much for your honesty in this video, and also simply thank you for creating and publishing it!
Thank you.
I love this video seriously so much insight! Actual real clarity, knowledge, and experienced being showcased and explained, great video!!! Thank you, you two!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you to all the Veterans pass and present who gives us this great life 🎉. 🙏🏾 nosale
Thank you
Thank you for the video - I have searched for information about waxing an older car with rock chips on the front and hood. I understand paint correction, though not really a viable option on a car with 225,000 miles. Regular wax turns white and looks bad. What would you recommend in this case? I have heard of colored waxes - my car is red. Do they work or a waste of time and money. It is an older car, but still want to make it look its best. Thank you
Forget wax and use DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss. It will not build up like a wax, and lasts much longer
Question about polishing with a damp pad (If you guys see this): Whenever I'm using your gold standard polish I wash the pad just like you guys. However, I recently decided to use the Rupes Uno Advanced, which says to not get it wet and has to sit and cure for the coating. Can I still use a damp pad for the AIO products?
Follow the manufacturers instructions, or do a test
Hi guys, excellent video I have a question can we add APC to rinseless wash and form the car?
Yes you can, but it’s a big waste of product.
Try a paintbrush to apply tire and even trim dressing. If you know how to paint it's the quickest, most accurate way. Been doing it for 25 years. You can even buy disposable boar hair "chip" brushes and throw them away afterwards.
Good tip
Great stuff, guys! Thank you so much for all you do.
Thanks for watching!
@@diydetailofficial I so appreciate all of your incredible and thorough information! I am starting a small detailing business in the Nashville area and am looking to get a hose (and a foam-gun, probably the Adam's version) rather than a pressure-washer. Is there something you would recommend? There must be something a little lighter and less cumbersome than a garden hose out there. Also-- would you say a 50 foot hose would be the right length? This is for mobile detailing-- something I can throw in the back of our old Range Rover Sport with all my other supplies. Thank you so much for your kind help! You and Pan the Organizer are my heroes... All best, Dana :D
I have been a dealership detailer for a couple years but I actually wanted to be good at it. I’ve done full paint correction on a car in less than 12 hours out of pure necessity and just stumbled on using my pad washer every panel.
Good
I did the circular motion with my ceramic coating and it works with any coating. I had 0 issues with high spots and I used way less prosuct. You can do circular motion with a microfiber applicator too, same good results.
Good to know!
Does the pad wash work the same for MF Pads as it does for the foam pads or should MF pads be swapped out once they are saturated with product? Also, is compressed air not a good idea for them as well?
The pad washer works with all pads
Where do you fit in tar remover in the washing process? After the contact wash?
After the contact wash.
@@diydetailofficial TYSM!
Do you need to prime foam or microfiber pads? Does the pad washer work with both foam and microfiber pads? If you just have one 5-in polisher would you get a 15 mm or 21 mm? Thanks for all the info.
No need to prime with The Gold Standard Polishing System. The pad washer works with all pads.
The longer the stroke the faster the cut.
@@diydetailofficial 👍
Hello, great video again thank you for you work. I was thinking of putting rinselless to foam canon to speed up the process of covering the car with it (using typical 1:256 dilution). WIth sprayer bottle it takes ages. What do you think of it? Can you demonstrate it in a video?
Good idea
Any advice or tips for Clear coat peel. Can it be restored manually without a repaint?
Unfortunately not
What should i use to damp my red pad if i dont have the cleaning bucket
ua-cam.com/video/wsxWcCuspug/v-deo.htmlsi=m2oXqnQdNQb7F0Qw
Good content. Whats your experience and thoughts on waterless car wash products? If you do use them what product do you recommend and how do you use it?
We have DIY Detail Waterless Wash, but we don’t suggest it for more than dust removal.
When doing foam rinse foam, do you use the foam cannon on the pressure washer for the pre soak? I am getting the active 2.0 and this is my first time with a pressure washer, so sorry if I am stupid.
Not stupid, yes
@@diydetailofficial thanks. I was thinking of using gsf with gc from khoch, for prewash. Good idea, or would lift be better on a car that hasn’t been washed in a year.
@kevinhacken9801 don’t stress
This might be a stupid question, but can you mix a bit of PH plus or minus to your foam cannon to increase or decrease PH of your shampoo? The PH plus or minus is a spa additive….great channel 👍
Ph is only a small component of what actually cleans.
@@diydetailofficial But if you increase the PH of a car shampoo, won’t it attack the road grime better, meaning less physical contact?
@@chiefmissile Acid or basic it's the ph of the chemicals used to "clean" or emulsify the dirt/grease. it's not the ph alone.
What grit sandpaper stratch will the Bauer hand sander remove? Could you make a video as to what we should expect from this machinee. Thanks
About 2000 , video coming soon
I attempted my fisrt ceramc/graphine coating on one panel of my new covered snowmobile trailer this weekend using the cross hatch method. It turned out ok, bit i did get a noticable line ( high spot) across the whole section. On my next section I'd like to try your circular method, but in the video i I noticed you were wiping the coating off immediately after applying. Do I not need to let the coating flash before leveling and wiping it off?
Also how can I get rid of the high spot line from the panel I coated already?
Wipe off is determined by humidity. The higher the humidity the faster the leveling.
You will need to polish
@@diydetailofficial would doing another coat of ceramic over top of the first one remove the high spots?
No
I know you have addressed this in some videos. But curious, I have a 1.5 yr old ceramic coat with very minor swirls on some gloss black parts. Also on some panels. Very light. Can I use like an Rupes Uno Advanced product and polish with a foam pad. Also do you have a product like that, which has a ceramic compound in it and is safe to polish with?
I would reach out to the manufacturer, in this case rupes, and ask them. You can for sure use Gold Standard Polish for a light polish on coated paint, but it's always ideal to re coat or at least put on some Ceramic Gloss after. It does depend on how aggressively you polish (pad, speed, pressure etc). We just have the one polishing liquid, and it doesn't have any fillers
Wow ok great thanks. I'll definitely look into what you have. Using soft foam pad, very light pressure, on around 2500 to 3000 OPM.
Yvan has said that not all iron removers are suitable for the clay towel, is there something in the ingredients that I should be looking for if it’s not currently the DIY product that I’m using?
There are many factors
Threw my clay bar out. It marred the hell out of my last car and without a machine polisher recovery by hand was painstaking. Now just good practice low contact washes combined with glazes and waxes/sealants keeps paint looking brilliant. It’ll take a long time until a polish is needed.
Good
Can you put your coatings over PPF? Thank you. Love the products so far
Yes you can!
I mobile detail by myself for around 2 years now. I use two of the "clay" Towels and if i had to guess its the exact same ones they are using in the clips here same pattern /color combo in anycase. Ive used other ones as well. I'll say this one thing ive learned is that no two cars are the same (weather per day /driver) Even if same make model and owner between two cars .And Ive learned I know nothing about this business tho ive done 60 or 70 cars not counting my own /family member's vehics since starting I still learn more n more .
All that said ...the towel is easier and faster than Claybars ....but the Slickness obtained from using a claybar vs the towels (ive used /had anyway) The claybar wins. WIndows? Again the clay bars even the cheap junky blue ones from amazon take weirdness of windows (Anti fog clients sadly applied to the inside of windshields) water spots ...blade trails or imprints That the towels have zero impact on.
The towels > nothing but polish +iron remover +wash . I don't even see them as a replacement for claybars so much as a replacement for wash mits heh as I basically use them with my foam during that portion of the wash. Sometimes i'll use th em with a quick detailer after the vehicle has been coated during a maintainance wash if the client opts for that service. But They shouldn't really be compared to clay bars in my opinion that no one asked for . As they aren't really in the same class . Claybars add a slickness that Im unsure at this point how to obtain without them and as my clients are having me detail daily drivers most of which aren';t in a garage the Synthetic towels won't remove road paint transfer for instance or well anything u can't rub off with your index i wouldn't count on those getting off either lol starting to think I use them purely due to not wanting to waste the money i spent on the two sets i have (and i do find th em easier than the wash mits to clean /maintain and do as good a job during contact wash)
I agree. Clay towels or whatever you wanna call it, can't remove things conventional clay bar can. You need that paint spotless, especially if you are wrapping the car, or applying PPF. When doing normal wash-clay-wax - sure clay towels are great, because they won't marr the paint like a clay bar. But when I am doing paint correction, I do not mind light marring since I will be polishing the paint anyways.
Good points
. Just sharing what I've experienced which again is admittedly limited. Hope I didn't come off as argumentative as i wouldnt presume too.. I enjoy the content and information u guys are putting out there.
Thank you.
If you use the pad washer, at the end of the detail you don't have to use some other cleaner? What's the highest speed you should use with the Gold Standard Polish? A damp pad with any compound or polish will cut better?
At the end of the detail they are clean. Use the lowest speed your machine will go. Never tried a polish or compound that didn’t work better damp.
I have never used clay mitts or clay bars, but after this I think the towels look really good. Can you use your shampoo was as a lubricant?
Yes
I use a 2" paint brush with the bristles cut down a bit for tyre shine
Nice
No more two bucket washing for me. One bucket with several mitts. A dirty mitt never goes back into the bucket. No contamination of wash - ever.
That works!
This method is further improved with the use of some plush microfiber towels. Then you get 8 clean sides per wash media and are never using potentially dirty media to clean a panel.
Started doing that too. The second bucket is now used to toss the once used mitt or towel into!
For me, as a hobbiest who just have (hopefully had) this mentality of "I just have to try this and that", the most overrated processes I've found is:
1) Washing with soap vs. a rinseless. A rinseless works, even in Norway where I live, but people don't seem to believe me 😔 I'm tired of rinsing suds...
2) Using a clay bar. It's inefficient, but I agree: sometimes you have to use it, but in general you don't. Use a clay towel.
3) Cleaning wheel arches. Lasts maximum a day, and never seems to be perfectly clean on a daily driver anyway.
4) Using specific interior products 😂😂😂 My God I have tried many interior products. I remember I was quite shocked when I saw the interior of my friends car, and I asked him what he used to do when he detailed the interior: "Oh, I don't clean the interior, I believe my girlfriend just use a damped microfiber towel." The interior of the car looked so good 😂
Keep on the good work guys 🇳🇴
Just a damp micro-fibre towel? Sounds good. I'll try that in future.
Thank you.
Hey Yvan, in your video you mentioned a few steps, foam, rinse, foam, and agitate (bucket/hand wash) I was curious when you would use the rinseless wash in these steps. Or would it be the solution you're using in the bucket for the hand wash step?
You can replace the soap with DIY Detail Rinseless Wash.
@@diydetailofficial perfect thank you.
Can I use just water in my lake country 4000 pad washer? What cleaners are safe to use in my pad washer? Or should I just stick with the lake county powder cleaner?
Great video!
We use DIY Detail Rinseless Wash at 256/1
@@diydetailofficial perfect! I was curious incase I run out of the powder or just want another option
I use the same brush for applying the tire dressing that you do. Was wondering if I need to wash it out after using it or is it better to leave it be with the dressing in it? If it does need cleaning, is the renseless wash the right way to clean it or should I use some all clean or something else? Thanks for the help.
We only wash them every 20-30 cars. Simply dunk in wash bucket for a few minutes
Can I use the clay towel on my glass and paint if I have vinyl stencils or decals?
Yes
Is using quick beads as a decon lube dangerous in sunlight?
You have to dry it before the sun does
In England cars get a high amount of road tar stuck to the lower areas sill rockers bottom of bumpers so if you use the decontamination towel its wrecked wont clean up so at what point in the process do DIY tackle this
Start with a pre-soak of DIY Detail All Clean , do your contact wash, then use the Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel
I love the last question, and I did just purchase the brush. I have a cloth covered sponge that responds to my fingers well and I never get anything on the rims. I work it in and am good to go. It never takes me any time and I get a week out of it but probably more if I went longer between washes. I’m looking forward to trying the brush though. I do think a lot of folks overcomplicate things. Meaning if it was dirty and a used a tire rag that was clean, I’m sure it would look great and hold up.
Thanks for sharing!!
Where can I get those clear wash buckets you have? I thought they may be a DIY Detail product, so I checked on the website, but couldn't find them.
Local restaurant supply
new to your videos. I like your delivery and knowledge. I appreciate you. I've always been into cars, but taking care of them has always been a learning curve. I am really listening and trying to be more like you guys. Thx for a SHINNY bunch of cars
Thanks and welcome
How about foam rinse foam then Waterless wash,.then dry then sealant for a ceramic coated car?
You can
Hi guys, I have a question about the clay towel. If I want to use an iron remover as lube, would I just dip the towel in a separate bucket to clean it off? Since I can't dip it into the rinseless bucket
Yes
I prefer these types of videos. Yes. The pad washer is fantastic. I just hated hand washing pads after a polishing. It's hard on your hands, too. There is something to cleaning the pad in the washer and cooling down the pad. Thanks guys for the video.
Good to know!
Could y'all do a video on mold removal?
No, mold removal needs to be done by properly equipped and trained professionals, it is not a job for a detailer.
How do you not apply pressure when working on the sides where we tend to have to do so just to keep the DA, etc., on the vehicle?
Just enough to touch the car.
How do you recommend drying the vehicle after a wash?
With a quality towel and drying aid.
@@diydetailofficial Thank you. I need to ask what you mean by a drying aid. A chemical of some sort?
DIY Detail Quick Beads or DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss
Hi guys, great video - my biggest bug bear… break disc flash rusting during washing, especially if you have black wheels. Know anything else other than BH Atom Mac? Tried varying the concentration, applying and blow drying prior to wash, apply during wash, end of wash, always get a flash over and the first time you go down the road the pristine black has a brown tinge on the barrel and spokes, save for washing and immediately driving to pad dry the discs, any other tips?
Unfortunately no magic. That flash rusting happens on damp days as well.
When I’m done drying I move the car back and forth in the drive riding the brakes and then with a cloth dipped in rinseless wash I wipe down the rims
When we use mineral(spot) remover, does the paint have to be dry? And do we use it after the iron remover? Thank you? Great content guys!
It can be wet. It’s the last step, use it after DIY Detail Iron Remover and mechanical decontamination.
I would love to see a video showing Yvan’s process for completing an interior detail in a well used vehicle. Not sure if you have done such video but that’s where I struggle with efficiency. During the winter I seem to get mainly interior jobs and some jobs take me longer than I’d like them to. Would love to see what I could do for increasing my efficiency
The best thing to increase your efficiency is take a video of you doing a job, then watch it to see where time is getting away from you. Like a professional athlete, you need to evaluate your performance.
Ive used the foam, rinse, wash method and there is usually still a noticeable layer of contaminants on my paint. Is there something else I should be doing?
In that case you will need to use our Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel . Decontamination should be performed periodically.
Whatdo you on Matt wheel trim
How to keep it black
DIY Detail Tire Dressing
I’m not in the detail business,but I’m all for making it easier and less time. My 65 Mustang looks GREAT with ceramic coating . My Terrain looks great without ceramic coating. So easy 😊
Sounds great!
Correct/ Clay Bar is not always needed. Polishing/buffing your vehicle use the correct pad with the proper tool, as said pressure creates heat and is not good. Auto paint layers are very thin as in Mils. or a third of the thickness of your fingernail, it is like food plastic saran wrap but thinner. Always use fresh and clean microfiber towels with some type of lubricant or wetness and never use a dry microfiber towel, even when drying off your vehicle as the air will evaporate the moisture. I dry my car with Worx WG521 electric leaf blower with a microfiber towel wrapped and taped on the end of the nozzle in case of accidental touching. It has not happened but better safe than sorry. It is light weight but you should wear ear plugs or muffs for hearing protection, including eye protection when using compressed air. I love the foam, rinse, foam and clean method using two - 5 gallon buckets with a strainer on the bottom so you don't pick up the dirt when dipping your mitt or wash rag in the bucket. Have at least 2 mitts or more, the lower section of your vehicle typically has more filth and needs to be changed for a cleaner mitt. Start wash from top to bottom - common sense. Just like you taking a shower as water runs top to bottom. Waxing in a circular motion, that makes sense, pads are round, not made straight and narrow or shaped like a square. Things are perceived as being swirls in the sunlight, our eyes and pupils are round, the sun is round, the cones that are part of our eye optics. Okay, I need a break, someone called out and said Swirl Ice Cream or Ice Cream Swirl. It takes me about 1 hour to wash my car and if I do a complete wax and polish takes up to another 3 or 4 hours. It is easier to clean the interior of a vehicle than the exterior because I don't eat or drink in my car, non-smoker, no pets, rarely have a passenger, vacuum and wipe things down practically every week. Winter used the All-weather rubber floor mats and clean them once a week, used 3M Scotchguard on the floor carpet ... more like thin all season outdoor carpeting nowadays installed in cars. Floormats are now made with a polyester/nylon material instead of a cloth weave and shag. So they are even easier to clean. Lots of cheap ass plastic. Faux-leather seats easy to clean too, hate the creases - wrinkles that occur as better off with real leather.
Automobiles are built with cheapest materials as possible, no quality, just quantity. What we are paying for is the electronic maybe or may not work safety features and the 10 to 20 airbags that are expensive. It's crazy to think that vehicles built 40 to 60 years ago were better, and in fact they are better than today's trash-mobiles.
Back then, easy to keep a car looking good with washing and waxing by hand. Today, got all these Car Care products and most don't even work as intended or described. Auto Detailing is expensive so don't over emphasize just make life simple.
Thank you.
If I've never deconned my Jeep, never used a clay bar, or whatever, just used Chem Guy's products, like foam cannon with Mr. Suds, diablo wheel cleaner, and tire shine etc. Should I use a clay bar? I just bought the kit for it, but I also don't want to polish the Jeep because frankly, I am not that invested in DIY car detailing. I just want to have the water run off fast and not have it sitting and drying. Is it worth my time to clay bar? I also want to put a coating on it using Adams spray on graphene. I watched a video from Adams where it took him 13 minutes to clay bar an entire car, but I feel like that car has been properly detailed and coated. Any tips for making the process quick?
Here’s a great way to clean and protect your Jeep.
ua-cam.com/video/fDebsMbDpNw/v-deo.htmlsi=QuFQtDt9xyQMz_UX
After applying tire dressing with the brush, is it necessary to rinse the brush ? If so, just water or does it need a chemical cleaning ? Thanks
If you’re using the brush exclusively for tire dressing, no need to clean it after each use.
I would love to use foam rinse foam method. I think it may be a bit risky for me given my footprint. I don't have an indoor wash bay so all washing is done in the driveway in direct sunlight. Letting the foam dwell for just a few minutes may be bad. On that note though, I agree it's most likely the easiest option for those that don't have to worry too much about using more product on one vehicle. (When I first started detailing I was pinching pennies.)
In that circumstance, DIY Detail Rinseless Wash would be the best option.
I’m a huge fan of your products.
Are you also shipping in Taiwan?
Not yet, but ask your favourite distributor to import DIY Detail. Keep an eye on this list.
Ddl
@@diydetailofficial Thanks guys! This has made my day 👍☺️
If no pad washer is available, can I use my the pad on one panel then give it a quick spur with a pad brush, use on another panel then when it starts getting too gunked up then switch to a new pad?
Yes or clean it like this ua-cam.com/users/shortsfGOQU8JQar8?si=BKJ2xZxp2AWKuu5_
@@diydetailofficial holysh*t okay thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/bdINJ-3Mc0U/v-deo.htmlsi=akEDPzOPfM1pco_z
To apply tyre shine I buy 6 x foam scourers from ALDI for 75p and use the foam side.
Good
Really appreciate the video you guys do. Thank you for that information.
Our pleasure!
Fantastic video, once again. Would you recommend applying foam over a layer of iron remover and then decontaminating with the clay towel? Another time saver perhaps?
Yes you can!
Thanks for talking about lacquer paint. I have lacquer paint and most so called “experts” never address non clear coat paint.
You are so welcome!
It’s been two years since I last had my car polished and protected and I’m starting to notice some scratches and lack of hydrophobic qualities -would you go for a yellow or red pad for a light polish step?
Start with DIY Detail Water Spot Remover
Like Ivan said, decon basically. Coatings are porous, all clog eventually. Water spot remover, iron remover, rinse contact wash. Start with the least aggressive approach, polishing again would be high on the scale of aggressiveness in this particular situation.
I had a fellow detailed shadow me to see how I did things and see rinselss wash. I told him the exact same thing about not hitting the car with pressure washer first.
What sense does it make to take the car at its dirtiest and hit it with the most pressure?
Exactly
Is the foam rinse foam process safe for detailing in the sunlight? What adjustments to the process would you recommend for outside detailing?
DIY Detail Rinseless Wash is better
im a diy detailer. i do not own a pad washer. do i have to wash my pad every time im done doing a small section of paint? how long until i wash my pad? because i usually wash it with dish soap and dry it spinning it with my polisher.
Ideally, yes, take a look at this video for a cost effective way of cleaning your pads
ua-cam.com/video/bdINJ-3Mc0U/v-deo.htmlsi=akEDPzOPfM1pco_z
I missed the Premier! But these tips are the start of new techniques for the advancement of chemicals. Some old techniques may be best for previous generation products but, we have to move on and Thank you Yvan and Nick!
Thank you! Cheers!