Avoid these OVERRATED detailing techniques: 5 tips to save you time | Podcast #83
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2024
- There are certain ways people seem to detail -- whether they're washing, polishing or even applying ceramic coatings to cars -- that we believe YOU would be best to avoid. This podcast is all about what those methods are, and why we believe you shouldn't do them. This podcast is all about saving you time AND wear & tear on your body.
Do you agree or disagree? We love to hear your comments and respond to all of them.
Some products mentioned:
PAD WASHER: bit.ly/PadWasher
CLAY TOWEL: bit.ly/FineGradeClayTowel
GOLD STANDARD POLISH: bit.ly/GoldStandardPolish
TIRE DRESSING BRUSH: bit.ly/TireDressingBrush
Web site:diydetail.com/
Podcast:bit.ly/DIYDetailPodcast
#autodetailing #diydetail #yvanlacroix #carwash #claytowel #detailing #detalingtip #howtodetailacar #podcast - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for the tips! Disclaimer: I only wash one car, mine. Instead of washing mitts between panels, I put six mitts in a soapy bucket. I use one side of each to wash two adjacent panels top to bottom. Then I flip it over and wash two more adjacent panels. Then the mitt goes in an empty bucket and I grab a new mitt out of the soapy bucket. It usually only takes five mitts, with the sixth as a backup in case I drop one on the ground. At the end, all of the mitts go into the clothes washer along with all of the other microfiber products I used in the process, and they all get washed (gentle cycle) and dried (low heat). I don't need to wash anything but the car during the process. Mitts are cheaper than time.
Great tip.
I appreciate acknowledging the importance of minimizing the aches and pains on the body when detailing
Thank you.
As a 100% mobile detailer whose main focus is ceramic coating and paint corrections, I could not survive without the tips in this video. Circular motions for applying the coating and using a pad washer and damp pad shave hours off the process and deliver top notch results. I can do an exterior detail/decon with the clay towel and iron remover, single step machine polish and ceramic coat in a single day in the comfort of my client's own driveway. Thank you, Yvan!
Great to hear!
Gents, love the no nonsense, practical approach to car washing, polishing and coating. As always enjoyed the vid, learned tons. Awesome job! Cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it
The brush for tire dressing .. what a brilliant idea!! Thank you guys for sharing your knowledge and making detailing more fun!!
Thanks for watching!
This has been a life changer for me! I have a LOT of huge trucks with colossal, knobby tires in my market area and that tiny foam applicator wasn't cutting it for me. Initially I thought the flag tipped brush was going to be too sloppy but legit on the first tire my technique was locked in and my accuracy was pinpoint. I'm NEVER going back. From low-profile tires to mudders it's the ft brush every time.
Thank you.
I just buy a €1 sponge, cut it up into 6 or 8 bits and use them, lasts a few years to get through them.
Really my favourite detailing content on the web and my go to products now! Brought the fun back to detailing and upped my efficiency ten fold!
Wow, Thank you.
5:05 lol! Thanks for the laughter Yvan 😄
Completely agree with the swapping pads. Ive saved so much time just by using the pad washer every after one panel. Also as a 4x4 enthusiast, im happy to say that i also apply tire dressing by using flagged tip brush. So easy to apply on knobby sidewalls compared to a hexagon or small sponge type applicator.
To me, the most overrated method in carwash, is the wheel wash using several type of brushes every time. Sure you can clean the barrels with a long wheel brush, use a paint brush-type for the nuts and crannies, or even a lugnut brush, iron decon, APC, foam. But if you regularly wash your car, all you need is APC, small mitt for the wheels, and a flagged tip brush for the rubber.
You guys are teaching us how to efficiently clean and wash our cars eeeeverytime, thank you so much, Yvan and Nick! 🤘🏽 Keep it up 💪🏽
Thank you.
Thank God this channel exists; kept thinking to myself after years of watching car detailing videos ‘all of this seems like overkill’, obnoxious almost and you guys clearly explained that here.
Thank you!
I missed the Premier! But these tips are the start of new techniques for the advancement of chemicals. Some old techniques may be best for previous generation products but, we have to move on and Thank you Yvan and Nick!
Thank you! Cheers!
Back when I was a detail tech, my go to for tire dressing was a cheap paint brush....worked great. Awesome video BTW..great tips.
Thanks 👍
Yeah, buddy. The FRF method has been my go-to for the last year. I've saved so much product and most importantly TIME. I have an LLC for my detail company but I only take appointments on the weekend so saving time gets me back to my Saturday and Sunday. My family has no complaints.
Excellent
Thanx for the content. Agreed the foam rinse foam is a go to. My biggest time saver when doing regular washes is rather than using the traditional 2 bucket method, my second bucket is empty at the beginning. My soap bucket has 4-6 micro fiber mitts, instead of rinsing and then re-soaking I just throw the mitt in the empty bucket and grab a new one then take all the "used" ones, rinse them and throw them in the washing machine on eco mode with an extra rinse, air dry them and put them away.
Great tip!
Agree 100% with the one bucket and always using a clean mitt or towel to wash.
You had me at “preservation” and “shiny scratches” …detailing Gandalf sounds very knowledgeable, this is my first video, I’m gonna keep going but could it be I finally found the most complete diy automobile paint detailing in here? Will keep you posted, thanks guys.
Welcome aboard!
Hi guys, best thing I ever bought a pad washer (lake 4000), I'm in my mid 60s and still detailing, and I go to is the rotary just let the machine do the work, most vehicles I detail are pre clear coat one stage paint.
Keep up the good work and info
Thanks for sharing!
Glad To See Another 60+ Guy Doing IT Well...😊
I love this video seriously so much insight! Actual real clarity, knowledge, and experienced being showcased and explained, great video!!! Thank you, you two!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for some great new learnings on things I haven't thought about. Especially the "applying too much pressure to your polisher" in terms of created heat, pad-wash, velcro-harming behavior etc. Thumbs up!
To answer your question for personal use on tire applicators, I use the mentioned hexagonal-roundshaped foam-applicator with a tire dressing. I'm not sure if it works any better than a brush, but massaging the dressing into the tire feels more durable than just applying a coating with a brush. I have no idea if my "feeling" works better than a brush in real life though 😄
What’s important is that you feel it’s working for you.
I've done testing with foaming the car, followed by a contact wash vs. foaming the car, let it dwell, rinse, foam again, contact wash, and the latter option keeps my wash bucket way cleaner. I use clear buckets, and I can see how much less grit is in my bucket utilizing the latter method.
Skip the second foam as it is really overkill. But using a good alkaline foam-dwell-rinse is good practice
Great point!
Dont skip the 2nd foam. use your high ph cleaner first and after a dwell and rinse hit it with strait foam for LUBRICATION. care care is a marathon not a sprint. I use only the best.@@Zoranurai13
Agreed
@@Zoranurai13 I mix KC gentle snow foam with KC Green Star and I get 10.5 ph in the foam canon. I use half for the pretreatment and the other half for the contact wash
Howdy! I've been relearning how to buff/polish without an 8k rpm angle grinder while also learning paint correction. Since I've been watching your videos, I'm learning all about one of your topics. If it doesn't look right, apply more pressure. OMG I'm having a hard time kicking that bad habit. I picked up a 7" cordless rotary polisher, Meguiar's M85 and M210, TW hybrid ceramic acrylic polish and my 20 year old black vehicle is shining once again. Thank you very much for your honesty in this video, and also simply thank you for creating and publishing it!
Thank you.
I appreciate the video as your videos are always educational. Only one time have I had to break out a clay bar on a heavily contaminated vehicle. For applying tire lotion the brush is my go to. I will say machine cleaning tires is great for truck tires and then follow up applying the tire lotion by machine.
Great tip!
As always, great content, my friend! Good seeing. you at MTE, I'll call you next week.
Thank you Dale, always a pleasure.
Great stuff, guys! Thank you so much for all you do.
Thanks for watching!
@@diydetailofficial I so appreciate all of your incredible and thorough information! I am starting a small detailing business in the Nashville area and am looking to get a hose (and a foam-gun, probably the Adam's version) rather than a pressure-washer. Is there something you would recommend? There must be something a little lighter and less cumbersome than a garden hose out there. Also-- would you say a 50 foot hose would be the right length? This is for mobile detailing-- something I can throw in the back of our old Range Rover Sport with all my other supplies. Thank you so much for your kind help! You and Pan the Organizer are my heroes... All best, Dana :D
I wash the wheel wells when I wash the tires and wheels. Makes the finished car look so much cleaner with clean wheel wells. The plastic and carpet look darker and mat which I feel helps frame the wheels and helps the paint pop and look shiny. Especially effective on light coloured cars.
So I foam the car, tires, and wheel wells let it dwell then rinse. Foam again, wash the wheels, tires and wheel wells and rinse and foam the paint again for the contact wash. I live in Taiwan and we get lots of industrial fallout and the trees leave a soft sap that will stain your paint if left in the sun to bake. The third foam helps soften and dissolve the sap and makes removing the sap easier.
Good tips.
I really enjoyed your video, thanks guys 👍😁
Glad you enjoyed it
Another overrated point is thinking that products can be used in 1 way only. It may (or may not) work better but it will certainly cost much more long term than having 1 product that can be used multiple ways (ex rinseless as wash, clay lube, interior, pad washing, etc)
True
you nailed it there. even carpro immolube which I tested recently I told Avi the owner of Carpro all the other things I can use it for that he never designed it to do. I cleaned my whiteboard with it and although not ideal, as I had no dedicated cleaner and couldnt get the blue marker imprints off with the duster, the immo at 1:1 sure did. it also can be used as polish extender and a pad cleaner in a pinch. spritz the stained pad, give it a rub with a glove on or use a brush then compressed air blow or or rinse it and bingo, super clean pad. no more stains and it doesn't soften the foam or discolour it. this is why sometimes manufacturers send me stuff as I test things with outside the box methods and on surfaces never designed to be used with it. using polishes on exterior trim is another, not all will stain trim, they fix them.
Thanks Matthew
Thank you for stating that about clay bar. I see too many detailers try to upsell with a clay bar and polish for every detail and it is not an ideal long term method, The synthetic clays are great and I still try to only use it on full decon steps if organic clay is not needed.
You are so welcome!
i learn so much from you guys.you are saving me time and energy.
Thank you.
5 truly top tips for us enthusiasts to follow. Simple but sound, sound advice gents. Thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you gents! This makes so much sense! 🤯
Thank you.
I just started my detailing biz, i love watching u guys!
Thank you.
I have been a dealership detailer for a couple years but I actually wanted to be good at it. I’ve done full paint correction on a car in less than 12 hours out of pure necessity and just stumbled on using my pad washer every panel.
Good
Thank you for the great tips!
You are so welcome!
What I use for tire dressing is just a 2-inch natural bristle paint brush. Between 1 and 2 dollars from the hardware store, and they deal with all the sidewall patterns and ridges beautifully.
Excellent
Glad to see another person using the same as myself.
I spray universal high shine and don't touch it at all
@@Rabbit.760 And get overspray on the wheels, and half of your product just blows away in the air.
Some of us have more sense.
@DjNikGnashers I mean for the product you use and know about maybe. If you didn't think of that, then ya, only some of us indeed, have more sense
Great streaming podcast, learned allot, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
No more two bucket washing for me. One bucket with several mitts. A dirty mitt never goes back into the bucket. No contamination of wash - ever.
That works!
This method is further improved with the use of some plush microfiber towels. Then you get 8 clean sides per wash media and are never using potentially dirty media to clean a panel.
I would love to see a video showing Yvan’s process for completing an interior detail in a well used vehicle. Not sure if you have done such video but that’s where I struggle with efficiency. During the winter I seem to get mainly interior jobs and some jobs take me longer than I’d like them to. Would love to see what I could do for increasing my efficiency
The best thing to increase your efficiency is take a video of you doing a job, then watch it to see where time is getting away from you. Like a professional athlete, you need to evaluate your performance.
Seriously this really make sense! Thanks guys!
Thank you.
Yes ivan has the best advice and knowledge!
Thanks
Thanks diy team you have helped me enjoy detailing again love your videos ❤️💯
Our pleasure!
I’m not in the detail business,but I’m all for making it easier and less time. My 65 Mustang looks GREAT with ceramic coating . My Terrain looks great without ceramic coating. So easy 😊
Sounds great!
Thanks for talking about lacquer paint. I have lacquer paint and most so called “experts” never address non clear coat paint.
You are so welcome!
Pro Tip - Unlike where you show yourself washing the rocker panels, then washing the hood of the car, wash the rocker panels last. The rockers tend to be dirtiest and less chance of carrying that dirt and grit to the hood of the car.
Thank you.
Absolutely
For me, as a hobbiest who just have (hopefully had) this mentality of "I just have to try this and that", the most overrated processes I've found is:
1) Washing with soap vs. a rinseless. A rinseless works, even in Norway where I live, but people don't seem to believe me 😔 I'm tired of rinsing suds...
2) Using a clay bar. It's inefficient, but I agree: sometimes you have to use it, but in general you don't. Use a clay towel.
3) Cleaning wheel arches. Lasts maximum a day, and never seems to be perfectly clean on a daily driver anyway.
4) Using specific interior products 😂😂😂 My God I have tried many interior products. I remember I was quite shocked when I saw the interior of my friends car, and I asked him what he used to do when he detailed the interior: "Oh, I don't clean the interior, I believe my girlfriend just use a damped microfiber towel." The interior of the car looked so good 😂
Keep on the good work guys 🇳🇴
Just a damp micro-fibre towel? Sounds good. I'll try that in future.
Thank you.
Hello, thank you for the informative video. When you have time can you make a video on how to clean and detail a hybrid engine bay. Thanks!
That’s best left to the dealership
Fantastic video, once again. Would you recommend applying foam over a layer of iron remover and then decontaminating with the clay towel? Another time saver perhaps?
Yes you can!
Yvan & Nick, this would be a great class at next year's MTE
Good idea
Learn a lot of this video, thanks and subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
I don't use a drying aid or some sort of spray and wipe product after washing. I use Griot's Polygloss in a foam cannon, allowing quick spotless drying and amazing gloss. It's so inexpensive by the gallon that I use it every few weeks.
Good
I did the circular motion with my ceramic coating and it works with any coating. I had 0 issues with high spots and I used way less prosuct. You can do circular motion with a microfiber applicator too, same good results.
Good to know!
Correct/ Clay Bar is not always needed. Polishing/buffing your vehicle use the correct pad with the proper tool, as said pressure creates heat and is not good. Auto paint layers are very thin as in Mils. or a third of the thickness of your fingernail, it is like food plastic saran wrap but thinner. Always use fresh and clean microfiber towels with some type of lubricant or wetness and never use a dry microfiber towel, even when drying off your vehicle as the air will evaporate the moisture. I dry my car with Worx WG521 electric leaf blower with a microfiber towel wrapped and taped on the end of the nozzle in case of accidental touching. It has not happened but better safe than sorry. It is light weight but you should wear ear plugs or muffs for hearing protection, including eye protection when using compressed air. I love the foam, rinse, foam and clean method using two - 5 gallon buckets with a strainer on the bottom so you don't pick up the dirt when dipping your mitt or wash rag in the bucket. Have at least 2 mitts or more, the lower section of your vehicle typically has more filth and needs to be changed for a cleaner mitt. Start wash from top to bottom - common sense. Just like you taking a shower as water runs top to bottom. Waxing in a circular motion, that makes sense, pads are round, not made straight and narrow or shaped like a square. Things are perceived as being swirls in the sunlight, our eyes and pupils are round, the sun is round, the cones that are part of our eye optics. Okay, I need a break, someone called out and said Swirl Ice Cream or Ice Cream Swirl. It takes me about 1 hour to wash my car and if I do a complete wax and polish takes up to another 3 or 4 hours. It is easier to clean the interior of a vehicle than the exterior because I don't eat or drink in my car, non-smoker, no pets, rarely have a passenger, vacuum and wipe things down practically every week. Winter used the All-weather rubber floor mats and clean them once a week, used 3M Scotchguard on the floor carpet ... more like thin all season outdoor carpeting nowadays installed in cars. Floormats are now made with a polyester/nylon material instead of a cloth weave and shag. So they are even easier to clean. Lots of cheap ass plastic. Faux-leather seats easy to clean too, hate the creases - wrinkles that occur as better off with real leather.
Automobiles are built with cheapest materials as possible, no quality, just quantity. What we are paying for is the electronic maybe or may not work safety features and the 10 to 20 airbags that are expensive. It's crazy to think that vehicles built 40 to 60 years ago were better, and in fact they are better than today's trash-mobiles.
Back then, easy to keep a car looking good with washing and waxing by hand. Today, got all these Car Care products and most don't even work as intended or described. Auto Detailing is expensive so don't over emphasize just make life simple.
Thank you.
I prefer these types of videos. Yes. The pad washer is fantastic. I just hated hand washing pads after a polishing. It's hard on your hands, too. There is something to cleaning the pad in the washer and cooling down the pad. Thanks guys for the video.
Good to know!
Morning guys....great informative video...Question; my car is quoted with ceramic DuraSlic HG, looks great. I have a small scratch on the fender, not deep but enough that it catches my eye every time. Any advice on how I should approach this on my attempts to remove it would be appreciated. Regards, Edmond M.
You will need to polish that area and coat again.
Hello, great video again thank you for you work. I was thinking of putting rinselless to foam canon to speed up the process of covering the car with it (using typical 1:256 dilution). WIth sprayer bottle it takes ages. What do you think of it? Can you demonstrate it in a video?
Good idea
So glad I don't need to use the 2 bucket method anymore. I felt so guilty when I was using it and accidentally forgot to dip into the rinse bucket. I thought I ruined everything!
No fear
i’ve been buying your product and and been happy with the results. I have question when using a rinseless wash what is your recommendation on when to apply iron remover?
Do your contact wash, then apply the DIY Detail Iron Remover using the Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel .
I always forget to quarter my clay towel, but I am super gentle with it.
That’s odd for you to not follow instructions.
What is the brand/style of applicator pad you used at the beginning of the video showing the circular application of the ceramic coating?
Thank you
It’s the applicator that comes with every DIY Detail coating.
Good content. Whats your experience and thoughts on waterless car wash products? If you do use them what product do you recommend and how do you use it?
We have DIY Detail Waterless Wash, but we don’t suggest it for more than dust removal.
Thanks for the education guys.
Thank you.
Hi guys, excellent video I have a question can we add APC to rinseless wash and form the car?
Yes you can, but it’s a big waste of product.
I'm going to use some of your products for the first time when I get some nice weather. I've just got the 5.25" jewel pad, but I've had the yellow polishing pad and the decon towel for quite a while. I've not used either yet. I was going to use a milwaukee m18 rotary, what speed should I use for each pad? And can I use rinseless in a spray bottle as lubricant for the decon towel? (I've never used a decon towel I've always used clay bars, I normally use a 256/1 ratio for when I use a normal clay bar and that seems to work fine)
Use the lowest speed on the machine. Soak your towel in a bucket of DIY Detail Rinseless Wash, and also spray the surface.
What grit sandpaper stratch will the Bauer hand sander remove? Could you make a video as to what we should expect from this machinee. Thanks
About 2000 , video coming soon
Clear coat preservation is something i always consider especially on newer cars with less paint..
Great
Hi guys, great video!! I hope lot of people out there listen and use those methods and techniques because they are really great and that's how I do my job. I always say - let the tools and chemicals do the job for you! pad washing - excellent, 😃 I 100 % agree with all your points except for the first one. I think the way you talk about it and explain it is nonsense. 😉
Thank you. Give circular vs cross hatch a try for your next coating, you may be surprised.
Thank you for the video - I have searched for information about waxing an older car with rock chips on the front and hood. I understand paint correction, though not really a viable option on a car with 225,000 miles. Regular wax turns white and looks bad. What would you recommend in this case? I have heard of colored waxes - my car is red. Do they work or a waste of time and money. It is an older car, but still want to make it look its best. Thank you
Forget wax and use DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss. It will not build up like a wax, and lasts much longer
Hey guys, thanks for the honest, useful advice. I’ve been watching your videos but realized I didn’t subscribe. New subscriber now 👍🏻.
Have a good day.
-Nathan
Awesome! Thank you!
what about a "foam, rinse, chemical" method?
Foam and rinse with pressure washer in driveway, then pull in inside the garage to be out of the sun and do a rinseless wash (one bucket, multiple mitts), I could also spray the panels with rinseless solution right before contact with mitt.
I'm talking about extremely dirty car only, otherwise just go straight to rinseless.
That works great
I mobile detail by myself for around 2 years now. I use two of the "clay" Towels and if i had to guess its the exact same ones they are using in the clips here same pattern /color combo in anycase. Ive used other ones as well. I'll say this one thing ive learned is that no two cars are the same (weather per day /driver) Even if same make model and owner between two cars .And Ive learned I know nothing about this business tho ive done 60 or 70 cars not counting my own /family member's vehics since starting I still learn more n more .
All that said ...the towel is easier and faster than Claybars ....but the Slickness obtained from using a claybar vs the towels (ive used /had anyway) The claybar wins. WIndows? Again the clay bars even the cheap junky blue ones from amazon take weirdness of windows (Anti fog clients sadly applied to the inside of windshields) water spots ...blade trails or imprints That the towels have zero impact on.
The towels > nothing but polish +iron remover +wash . I don't even see them as a replacement for claybars so much as a replacement for wash mits heh as I basically use them with my foam during that portion of the wash. Sometimes i'll use th em with a quick detailer after the vehicle has been coated during a maintainance wash if the client opts for that service. But They shouldn't really be compared to clay bars in my opinion that no one asked for . As they aren't really in the same class . Claybars add a slickness that Im unsure at this point how to obtain without them and as my clients are having me detail daily drivers most of which aren';t in a garage the Synthetic towels won't remove road paint transfer for instance or well anything u can't rub off with your index i wouldn't count on those getting off either lol starting to think I use them purely due to not wanting to waste the money i spent on the two sets i have (and i do find th em easier than the wash mits to clean /maintain and do as good a job during contact wash)
I agree. Clay towels or whatever you wanna call it, can't remove things conventional clay bar can. You need that paint spotless, especially if you are wrapping the car, or applying PPF. When doing normal wash-clay-wax - sure clay towels are great, because they won't marr the paint like a clay bar. But when I am doing paint correction, I do not mind light marring since I will be polishing the paint anyways.
Good points
. Just sharing what I've experienced which again is admittedly limited. Hope I didn't come off as argumentative as i wouldnt presume too.. I enjoy the content and information u guys are putting out there.
Thank you.
Hey Yvan, in your video you mentioned a few steps, foam, rinse, foam, and agitate (bucket/hand wash) I was curious when you would use the rinseless wash in these steps. Or would it be the solution you're using in the bucket for the hand wash step?
You can replace the soap with DIY Detail Rinseless Wash.
@@diydetailofficial perfect thank you.
@diydetail I am a brush tire shine convert!
Good
I just forget ceramic altogether and use spray wax. Also I skip out on pressure washing.
Good
Do you use a spray bottle to apply a prewash chemical?
Yes, I use the Rinseless Wash solution with a pump sprayer. Then, I rinse it off with a garden hose with a nozzle attached. @@SuperDaveguitar
Can you put your coatings over PPF? Thank you. Love the products so far
Yes you can!
I use a 2" paint brush with the bristles cut down a bit for tyre shine
Nice
I would love to use foam rinse foam method. I think it may be a bit risky for me given my footprint. I don't have an indoor wash bay so all washing is done in the driveway in direct sunlight. Letting the foam dwell for just a few minutes may be bad. On that note though, I agree it's most likely the easiest option for those that don't have to worry too much about using more product on one vehicle. (When I first started detailing I was pinching pennies.)
In that circumstance, DIY Detail Rinseless Wash would be the best option.
To apply tyre shine I buy 6 x foam scourers from ALDI for 75p and use the foam side.
Good
If your car is well waxed and protected.......then I rinse with pressure washer, then heavy foam, let it soak out of the sun, rinse again , then two heavy micro towels to dry the car. No scratches to problem.
Your much better to wax more often then worrying about a foam rinse foam rinse approach
Good
amazing content... where can you get a pad cleaner....
Thanks! bit.ly/PadWasher
Foam, rinse, foam, contact wash with clean mitt or microfiber towel, one wash bucket, do not put a dirty mitt or fiber towel back in the wash bucket. Always use a new clean mitt or towel to wash a section at a time. Only need 4 or 5 clean mitts or microfiber towels to wash most vehicles. Do a section, put the dirty/used mitt or towel in a different empty bucket to be washed later. Take the new one, dip it in your clean wash bucket, wash another section, discard it in the bucket with the other dirty mitts and towels, and repeat. Then rinse, blow off most of the water with an air gun or leaf blower, then dry with microfiber and a drying aid, some type of a quick detail spray to help lubricate the surface and add glossy shine to the vehicle while drying it.
Nice process
A made the leap and ordered some gold standard polish. I'm coming from meguiars ultimate polish and I'm hoping to be impressed.
Please let us know once you’ve tried it . bit.ly/DIYDetailFacebookGroup
It’s the best move I made this year switching to gold standard polish. Great with my da polisher and easy to remove. Love the product. Hope you have a similar experience also.
I’m a huge fan of your products.
Are you also shipping in Taiwan?
Not yet, but ask your favourite distributor to import DIY Detail. Keep an eye on this list.
Ddl
@@diydetailofficial Thanks guys! This has made my day 👍☺️
Is the foam rinse foam process safe for detailing in the sunlight? What adjustments to the process would you recommend for outside detailing?
DIY Detail Rinseless Wash is better
Foam, rinse and foam has been my way for awhile. I still use a bucket with soaked wash media and use 5 or so towel. I never return a dirty towel or mitt back to the wash bucket. Which is not a waste as you can wash and reuse the towels or mitts.
Perfect
I use the same brush for applying the tire dressing that you do. Was wondering if I need to wash it out after using it or is it better to leave it be with the dressing in it? If it does need cleaning, is the renseless wash the right way to clean it or should I use some all clean or something else? Thanks for the help.
We only wash them every 20-30 cars. Simply dunk in wash bucket for a few minutes
In the first minute of the video you were applying ceramic coating on a TRX hood decal. My 16 Challenger has black decal stripes on hood and almost the whole roof is covered with a decal. What’s the best way to clean and protect the decals?
Clean with DIY Detail Rinseless Wash, decontaminate with DIY Detail Iron Remover , continue with DIY Detail Water Spot Remover, then ceramic coat for protection
Where can I get those clear wash buckets you have? I thought they may be a DIY Detail product, so I checked on the website, but couldn't find them.
Local restaurant supply
When we use mineral(spot) remover, does the paint have to be dry? And do we use it after the iron remover? Thank you? Great content guys!
It can be wet. It’s the last step, use it after DIY Detail Iron Remover and mechanical decontamination.
How often do you to use the Decontamination Towel? When you use the towel, you have correct /polishing the car?
When needed, following our instructions, no need to polish
I know you have addressed this in some videos. But curious, I have a 1.5 yr old ceramic coat with very minor swirls on some gloss black parts. Also on some panels. Very light. Can I use like an Rupes Uno Advanced product and polish with a foam pad. Also do you have a product like that, which has a ceramic compound in it and is safe to polish with?
I would reach out to the manufacturer, in this case rupes, and ask them. You can for sure use Gold Standard Polish for a light polish on coated paint, but it's always ideal to re coat or at least put on some Ceramic Gloss after. It does depend on how aggressively you polish (pad, speed, pressure etc). We just have the one polishing liquid, and it doesn't have any fillers
Wow ok great thanks. I'll definitely look into what you have. Using soft foam pad, very light pressure, on around 2500 to 3000 OPM.
Yvan has said that not all iron removers are suitable for the clay towel, is there something in the ingredients that I should be looking for if it’s not currently the DIY product that I’m using?
There are many factors
In England cars get a high amount of road tar stuck to the lower areas sill rockers bottom of bumpers so if you use the decontamination towel its wrecked wont clean up so at what point in the process do DIY tackle this
Start with a pre-soak of DIY Detail All Clean , do your contact wash, then use the Perforated Synthetic Decontamination Towel
Do you need to prime foam or microfiber pads? Does the pad washer work with both foam and microfiber pads? If you just have one 5-in polisher would you get a 15 mm or 21 mm? Thanks for all the info.
No need to prime with The Gold Standard Polishing System. The pad washer works with all pads.
The longer the stroke the faster the cut.
@@diydetailofficial 👍
What are your thoughts on grit guards and grit walls ? are they any good?
They help
Whatdo you on Matt wheel trim
How to keep it black
DIY Detail Tire Dressing
superb tips guys , thankyou so much, you say Foam rinse Foam, what do you do if you cant do that ?
We show many different ways of washing on our channel, all are safe.
Any advice or tips for Clear coat peel. Can it be restored manually without a repaint?
Unfortunately not
Hi guys, great video - my biggest bug bear… break disc flash rusting during washing, especially if you have black wheels. Know anything else other than BH Atom Mac? Tried varying the concentration, applying and blow drying prior to wash, apply during wash, end of wash, always get a flash over and the first time you go down the road the pristine black has a brown tinge on the barrel and spokes, save for washing and immediately driving to pad dry the discs, any other tips?
Unfortunately no magic. That flash rusting happens on damp days as well.
When I’m done drying I move the car back and forth in the drive riding the brakes and then with a cloth dipped in rinseless wash I wipe down the rims
Now if we could just get rid of ceramic coatings altogether, we could preserve our precious clearcoats!!
You might be wondering what I mean by that. Well, you can't remove a coating even when it is at the end of it's serviceable life without polishing it off. Some coatings last only a year. That's a lot of polishing. I think we would be better off with longer lasting waxes and sealant that are more easily removed by alkaline cleaners. For me, a good durable wax is Soft99 Fusso coat. Let me know which durable wax you like!
Many coatings last decades, and you only need a very light polish with a fine pad to abrade the existing coating.
@diydetailofficial There really are very few coatings that last a decade or more and they are generally not meant for the diy'er. New car clearcoats are thin. Old car clearcoats may have been buffed a bunch of times before you bought the car. No way for the average paint thickness guage-less diy'er to know when he has buffed too much. We have all seen older cars many years ago that have been beautifully maintained with frequent applications of good carnuba wax. My point is to consider the long term affects to your clearcoat ( unless you don't keep your cars for the long term) of having to constantly buff off coatings as they fail
When doing foam rinse foam, do you use the foam cannon on the pressure washer for the pre soak? I am getting the active 2.0 and this is my first time with a pressure washer, so sorry if I am stupid.
Not stupid, yes
@@diydetailofficial thanks. I was thinking of using gsf with gc from khoch, for prewash. Good idea, or would lift be better on a car that hasn’t been washed in a year.
@kevinhacken9801 don’t stress
I have never used clay mitts or clay bars, but after this I think the towels look really good. Can you use your shampoo was as a lubricant?
Yes
It’s been two years since I last had my car polished and protected and I’m starting to notice some scratches and lack of hydrophobic qualities -would you go for a yellow or red pad for a light polish step?
Start with DIY Detail Water Spot Remover
Like Ivan said, decon basically. Coatings are porous, all clog eventually. Water spot remover, iron remover, rinse contact wash. Start with the least aggressive approach, polishing again would be high on the scale of aggressiveness in this particular situation.
What about the Nanoskin Autoscrub 6" fine clay pad for a DA? I've used it for a few years now and love it.
We have never used that.