Use extra glue on those cut ends to keep them from fraying too badly. I glued mine to the face of the stove because I sourced my material locally and all I could get was the wider stove gasket plus I didn't like how the gasket interfered with the closing of the door when I did experiment with putting the gasket on the door. My door shut just fine with the gasket glued to the face of the stove without any bending or modifications to the stove itself.
The gasket was 1/8 thick by 3/4” .. it was actually for a pellet stove and came with adhesive on it .. I tried it with added gasket adhesive , and it fell off on the left side and the top .. I redid it with just the adhesive on it and it did the same .. that gasket is not rated for the heat the stove gets too… I bought some more , and am going to try again
Thinking of purchasing this wood stove, I currently run the Princess auto version in my Ice shack but the pipes get clogged up quick. The princess auto stove also lets out a ridiculous amount of smoke anytime you open the door even when there is a hot burn going. Have you had any similar issues with this stove?
If I am burning dry wood, the pipes do just fine.. I clean them every couple of weeks thoroughly ( I go through the sidewall, so I have two 90 degree bends) . I just open the door a crack for a few seconds to let the draft adjust and it’s not too bad… if the fire is low , or recently started it can be smoky … but generally manageable
I have this stove and it burned through my stove jack in my tent. Im wondering what I can do to prevent it from melting that silicone jack? Seems the jack cant handle the heat from the pipe. Does your pipe glow red?
No, haha .. my pipe doesn’t glow red.. I made a double wall with 6” pipe to go outside .. I used sheet merely screws as spacers to center the 5” main pipe.. check out my shanty tour video .. it shows the pipe that goes outside . I’ll do another video showing it in full .. should help keep the jack from melting
@@mikesniedze9122 hmm. Im beginning to think I have a defective stove pipe. It glows bright red when burning . Ill look into a way to create a wall for the pipe but problem is the stove jack already fits very snug around the pipe so not sure on a resolution yet. Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the damper installed? I also got a pipe temperature guage ... silicone is only good for 500 to 600 degrees I think... mine gets up to 800 to 900 when I first get it really going , but I try to run it around 450 .. and my pipe never gets red... and I have slightly thinner pipe than the one that came with it... just 5” galvanized from the hardware store... what are you burning?
@@mikesniedze9122 im using the pipe that came with the stove. Its the Alpine camp chef model. Damper is already installed. I was just burning regular firewood when we went camping. As soon as the fire got going, it started to glow bright red and the jack began to melt and actually caught fire. Maybe I just need to switch out my pipe. It probably was too hot for the silicone jack but I still worry about the pipe burning so hot. It seems like when the fire gets going, it roars and the flames are shooting up the pipe making the pipe turn red because of the intense heat.
You: "Probably the worst video to watch..." Lol. Checking in from Ohio here and not finding any other gasket modification vids-- they're all aboot replacing an existing gasket. I'm much more interested in trying to get a longer burn time out of cast iron stove by adding a gasket but I'm not seeing anyone doing this.
Well I will have an update .. the 1/8”gasket I used is actually for pellet stoves , and the top piece kept coming off … I tried it with just the self adhesive, and with that same glue, but didn’t really clean it properly to be honest.. as it was winter . I am going to re do it properly , and will update .. it does make a difference in performance , but you can’t totally damp it down like a sealed unit . However with dense hardwood I have done ok.
Use extra glue on those cut ends to keep them from fraying too badly. I glued mine to the face of the stove because I sourced my material locally and all I could get was the wider stove gasket plus I didn't like how the gasket interfered with the closing of the door when I did experiment with putting the gasket on the door. My door shut just fine with the gasket glued to the face of the stove without any bending or modifications to the stove itself.
Any update after some continues use?
What was the thickness of the gasket
The gasket was 1/8 thick by 3/4” .. it was actually for a pellet stove and came with adhesive on it .. I tried it with added gasket adhesive , and it fell off on the left side and the top .. I redid it with just the adhesive on it and it did the same .. that gasket is not rated for the heat the stove gets too… I bought some more , and am going to try again
Thinking of purchasing this wood stove, I currently run the Princess auto version in my Ice shack but the pipes get clogged up quick. The princess auto stove also lets out a ridiculous amount of smoke anytime you open the door even when there is a hot burn going. Have you had any similar issues with this stove?
If I am burning dry wood, the pipes do just fine.. I clean them every couple of weeks thoroughly ( I go through the sidewall, so I have two 90 degree bends) .
I just open the door a crack for a few seconds to let the draft adjust and it’s not too bad… if the fire is low , or recently started it can be smoky … but generally manageable
@@mikesniedze9122 Awesome, thanks for the quick reply, i'll keep an eye out for a sale at Cabela's! Hopefully this one will perform better
What type of adhesive did you use great video
Gasket adhesive... usually comes with the gasket material , or sold in the same section ...
I have this stove and it burned through my stove jack in my tent. Im wondering what I can do to prevent it from melting that silicone jack? Seems the jack cant handle the heat from the pipe. Does your pipe glow red?
No, haha .. my pipe doesn’t glow red.. I made a double wall with 6” pipe to go outside .. I used sheet merely screws as spacers to center the 5” main pipe.. check out my shanty tour video .. it shows the pipe that goes outside . I’ll do another video showing it in full .. should help keep the jack from melting
Sheet screws.. ignore the merely
@@mikesniedze9122 hmm. Im beginning to think I have a defective stove pipe. It glows bright red when burning . Ill look into a way to create a wall for the pipe but problem is the stove jack already fits very snug around the pipe so not sure on a resolution yet. Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the damper installed? I also got a pipe temperature guage ... silicone is only good for 500 to 600 degrees I think... mine gets up to 800 to 900 when I first get it really going , but I try to run it around 450 .. and my pipe never gets red... and I have slightly thinner pipe than the one that came with it... just 5” galvanized from the hardware store... what are you burning?
@@mikesniedze9122 im using the pipe that came with the stove. Its the Alpine camp chef model. Damper is already installed. I was just burning regular firewood when we went camping. As soon as the fire got going, it started to glow bright red and the jack began to melt and actually caught fire. Maybe I just need to switch out my pipe. It probably was too hot for the silicone jack but I still worry about the pipe burning so hot. It seems like when the fire gets going, it roars and the flames are shooting up the pipe making the pipe turn red because of the intense heat.
You: "Probably the worst video to watch..." Lol. Checking in from Ohio here and not finding any other gasket modification vids-- they're all aboot replacing an existing gasket. I'm much more interested in trying to get a longer burn time out of cast iron stove by adding a gasket but I'm not seeing anyone doing this.
Well I will have an update .. the 1/8”gasket I used is actually for pellet stoves , and the top piece kept coming off … I tried it with just the self adhesive, and with that same glue, but didn’t really clean it properly to be honest.. as it was winter . I am going to re do it properly , and will update .. it does make a difference in performance , but you can’t totally damp it down like a sealed unit . However with dense hardwood I have done ok.