I just traded for a 1968 9.9 sportwin and this video is the only reason I have the motor running. Thank you very much. You did scare me a tiny but beating those plugs back in. Then I had to do the same thing so I felt like an idiot. Thank you so much for the video. I liked and subscribed.
Thank you. This was very helpful. Working on my 1968 9.5 and this was great. FYI I agree drilling out the plugs made me nervous. Since the metal is very soft, instead of drilling, I lightly taped an awl with a hammer and it went through the soft metal very easily. then they pried right out with the awl.
thanks, your video is very helpful. One thing I have found useful is in removing the caps, i use a sharp drywall screw and screw it into the soft metal of the cap. it normally does not even have to penetrate before you have enough leverage to remove the cap. just a thought. much safer then drilling and no metal shards to clean up. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Getting ready to do the same job on my '64. Float keeps sticking and puking fuel from the upper vent hole. Luckily I made it back to the dock today before the storm got goin 😅
Drilled holes in the plugs, but trying to pry them out was just bending my picks. I screwed a long screw into the hole and was able to pop it out that way. Probably my cheap harbor freight picks!
You forgot to remove the main jet and clean it out , it’s inside the of the bowl where the drain screw is. But other then that it was a great video man
Nicely done! Quick question: what's the point of replacing the two metal caps? Is there any important holes or passages behind it that needs to be cleaned?
Tip/ opinion. I would use steel wool or Scotch Brite to clean the "ridge" off the needle. Do not use emery paper. Or you could use 320 to say 400 wet and dry sandpaper, which will allow you to have more finesse while blending the ridges. The best thing to do is replace the damaged needle if you can. Thanks otherwise for the good video.
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=9.5&model=MQ-14D&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Carburetor+Group Check out find number 40 and 69 for the needle valves
Hey!!! I hope this channel is still active! I’m a first timer and your carb breakdown video was amazing…. However.. I don’t know how to get to the bolt under the flywheel to remove the whole carb to pull the gasket
You’ll have to pull the top of the flywheel. To get the last bolt put the gear lever in the “Forward” position and twist the handle forward. Didn’t have to remove the lower part of flywheel.
Do you happen to have a video on setting the low idle after the carb is re-installed. Mine starts right up but seem to be struggling getting it to idle at low idle. I rebuilt this at low altitude and then took it to 7000 feet. Pretty much runs the same at both altitudes. I started with seating the low idle needle and then backing out 1.5 turns. Any advise. Thank you!
Not yet but that is the next step. I first started it in a garbage can to make sure the rebuild was successful. Then again at altitude to make sure it would start. Next trip is to the lake.
I don’t recall removing the flywheel and I checked my service manual and it doesn’t mention removing the flywheel in the removal steps. If you don’t remove and replace the caps you may not get the jet ports clean BUT if the motor hasn’t been sitting for years you may be able to get away with it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I was told it has been sitting for 15 years in a garage. I have replaced some hoses and fuel pump. The motor cranks very easily and idles nicely. When I put it in forward and try to increase the rpms it kind of bogs. So, I just ordered a carb kit. Today I am going to replace the impeller thanks to your video. I hope this removal goes as smooth as your video. In another video the guy was saying there is a screw on the backside of the carb which is under the flywheel. And he had the flywheel removed, he said there isn't anyway to get to the screw without flywheel removal. Thanks for the video and the response
On my 1968 I did not remove the flywheel. The screw on that side is sort of under the flywheel, so I would take it out last with the carb body so it doesn't fall down under the motor.
Hey, I liked the video, but I got a question.. At the bottom/side of the float bowel, you took the screw out, and small gasket, but the 'carb parts diagram' available 'Crowley' indicates there is a 'orifice plug' in there as well. a brass one, that costs $60 .. I only took the screw out to see if fuel came out, while trying to start the motor. Seems NO fuel inside the carb, engine only runs pouring gas in the carb for a sec or two. i'm freaked out the cost/part order time to take the carb apart, gaskets and stuff. Another thing, that long needle valve, on my motor is say its a ' mixture (rich/lean) adjustment knob by the choke control. Please help.. Thank you.
Oh, btw, the engine was running in a water barrel, a few weeks ago, for an hour. A bit hard starting, which make me mad, but was running eventually. Any thoughts? Cheers!
Ok I came here to find out about a fuel pump for this engine.... I did subb ya and like...... I do small engines such as Lawn equipment and chainsaws....... Do you have a source for a pump kit ???
Jesse 1 turn out then start the engine and open the throttle in gear under a load....... If it hesitates then go another 1/8 turn and try again.... If not then another 1/8 turn......... Get that sweet spot.... If not then the idle circuit is clogged and you need to dip the carb in a ultrasonic cleaner and take that welch plug out on the side of the carb..... That silver thing he said in the video....... Plus Tard Mon Ami ...........
Man you don’t understand how long I have looked for a video as this. I appreciate it.
My great aunt gave me a 1969 Johnson 9.5 before she passed and I want to restore it for her.
I just traded for a 1968 9.9 sportwin and this video is the only reason I have the motor running. Thank you very much. You did scare me a tiny but beating those plugs back in. Then I had to do the same thing so I felt like an idiot. Thank you so much for the video. I liked and subscribed.
Thanks Fish Man, glad it helped
Thank you. This was very helpful. Working on my 1968 9.5 and this was great. FYI I agree drilling out the plugs made me nervous. Since the metal is very soft, instead of drilling, I lightly taped an awl with a hammer and it went through the soft metal very easily. then they pried right out with the awl.
Bob, that’s a good approach. Thanks for the comment
thanks, your video is very helpful. One thing I have found useful is in removing the caps, i use a sharp drywall screw and screw it into the soft metal of the cap. it normally does not even have to penetrate before you have enough leverage to remove the cap. just a thought. much safer then drilling and no metal shards to clean up. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic tip. I’ll try that next time. Thanks a ton
Great video. Getting ready to do the same job on my '64. Float keeps sticking and puking fuel from the upper vent hole. Luckily I made it back to the dock today before the storm got goin 😅
This is just what I was looking for ..THANKYOU!
Very helpful video. I learned so much. Thanks!
Thanks for making this video man!
Drilled holes in the plugs, but trying to pry them out was just bending my picks. I screwed a long screw into the hole and was able to pop it out that way. Probably my cheap harbor freight picks!
great video! most helpful. You Da' Man!
Thanks for filming this Very helpfull!!
Thanks! That’s why I filmed it
Yo man, thanks for this walk through
You forgot to remove the main jet and clean it out , it’s inside the of the bowl where the drain screw is. But other then that it was a great video man
Oh man!!!! Thank you!!!
My problem was in the little jet in be hind the drain plug in the base . It was totally plugged. It would not pick up any gas at all.
Fantastic!!!! Thank you so much
Perfect tutorial video. How do you remove the flexible spring/cable rod connecting the idle needle to the adjustable knob?
Thanks a bunch!
Nvm found it thank you great video
Nicely done! Quick question: what's the point of replacing the two metal caps? Is there any important holes or passages behind it that needs to be cleaned?
Only if your carb is super dirty
It would have been neat if you included removing the lean/rich adjustment. That's the only part I needed help with
Brandon Blake, the needle unscrews
Why yes it does 😂
I don’t see that part number you are saying is in the comments
Nice tutorial? 👍 What size Diameter gas line does this take? Thanks Ray
5/16
Tip/ opinion. I would use steel wool or Scotch Brite to clean the "ridge" off the needle. Do not use emery paper. Or you could use 320 to say 400 wet and dry sandpaper, which will allow you to have more finesse while blending the ridges. The best thing to do is replace the damaged needle if you can. Thanks otherwise for the good video.
Does the needle under the float attach to anything by the small fish hook wire?or is it free floating
It floats
how about any info on the high speed jet removal?
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=9.5&model=MQ-14D&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Carburetor+Group
Check out find number 40 and 69 for the needle valves
Hey!!! I hope this channel is still active! I’m a first timer and your carb breakdown video was amazing…. However.. I don’t know how to get to the bolt under the flywheel to remove the whole carb to pull the gasket
Will need to pull the flywheel
ua-cam.com/video/Vx1hu-VXy8g/v-deo.html
You’ll have to pull the top of the flywheel. To get the last bolt put the gear lever in the “Forward” position and twist the handle forward. Didn’t have to remove the lower part of flywheel.
Is it ok to just use a non-chlorinated carb cleaner for this instead of acetone?
Yes
Do you happen to have a video on setting the low idle after the carb is re-installed. Mine starts right up but seem to be struggling getting it to idle at low idle. I rebuilt this at low altitude and then took it to 7000 feet. Pretty much runs the same at both altitudes. I started with seating the low idle needle and then backing out 1.5 turns. Any advise. Thank you!
I do not but I will add that to the list.
Its best to set the idle on the boat in the water. Are you trying that?
Not yet but that is the next step. I first started it in a garbage can to make sure the rebuild was successful. Then again at altitude to make sure it would start. Next trip is to the lake.
Is there a factory reset for the idle adjustment knob? Or do you just screw it back in and adjust while the engine is running?
Gently seat the needle then back of 1 and 1/2 turns. Make final adjustment with boat on the water
do you have to take the flywheel off to get the carb off? And do you really have to take the caps off ( 5:30 on your video)
I don’t recall removing the flywheel and I checked my service manual and it doesn’t mention removing the flywheel in the removal steps.
If you don’t remove and replace the caps you may not get the jet ports clean BUT if the motor hasn’t been sitting for years you may be able to get away with it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I was told it has been sitting for 15 years in a garage. I have replaced some hoses and fuel pump. The motor cranks very easily and idles nicely. When I put it in forward and try to increase the rpms it kind of bogs. So, I just ordered a carb kit. Today I am going to replace the impeller thanks to your video. I hope this removal goes as smooth as your video.
In another video the guy was saying there is a screw on the backside of the carb which is under the flywheel. And he had the flywheel removed, he said there isn't anyway to get to the screw without flywheel removal.
Thanks for the video and the response
On my 1968 I did not remove the flywheel. The screw on that side is sort of under the flywheel, so I would take it out last with the carb body so it doesn't fall down under the motor.
Hey, I liked the video, but I got a question.. At the bottom/side of the float bowel, you took the screw out, and small gasket, but the 'carb parts diagram' available 'Crowley' indicates there is a 'orifice plug' in there as well. a brass one, that costs $60 .. I only took the screw out to see if fuel came out, while trying to start the motor. Seems NO fuel inside the carb, engine only runs pouring gas in the carb for a sec or two. i'm freaked out the cost/part order time to take the carb apart, gaskets and stuff. Another thing, that long needle valve, on my motor is say its a ' mixture (rich/lean) adjustment knob by the choke control. Please help.. Thank you.
Oh, btw, the engine was running in a water barrel, a few weeks ago, for an hour. A bit hard starting, which make me mad, but was running eventually. Any thoughts?
Cheers!
Where is a good place to buy parts?
thisoldoutboard.com/easily-find-parts-for-old-outboards/
were did u get your parts at
James Jiles check the video description. Hit the down arrow to the right of the video title and below the video
GUMOUT SPRARY CARB CLEANER WOORKS FAST AND CLEAN. PLUS COMPESSED AIR AFTER. ALTERNATE 2 3 TIMES.
Did your carburetor have a nylon/plastic piece behind the large plug? . if so is it removeable?
Mine has this same plastic plug did you take it out?
how much was the rebuild kit?
this link is in the description, amzn.to/2uUBLHw, it takes you to amazon (its $27 with free shipping)
$25 or so on ebay # 382048
The side of my carb under the float bowl there’s a hole that pours gas out of any help???
As in pours gas OUTSIDE of the carburetor?
Send a pic to thisoldoutboard@gmail.com
rocket city motors yes sir out of the side of the carburetor but will do when I get off work thanks a lot!
rocket city motors email sent.
Ok I came here to find out about a fuel pump for this engine.... I did subb ya and like...... I do small engines such as Lawn equipment and chainsaws.......
Do you have a source for a pump kit ???
Is there a factory reset for the idle adjustment knob? Or do you just screw it back in and adjust while the engine is running?
Jesse 1 turn out then start the engine and open the throttle in gear under a load.......
If it hesitates then go another 1/8 turn and try again.... If not then another 1/8 turn......... Get that sweet spot....
If not then the idle circuit is clogged and you need to dip the carb in a ultrasonic cleaner and take that welch plug out on the side of the carb..... That silver thing he said in the video.......
Plus Tard Mon Ami ...........
Thanks so much. I'll give it a try
For the love of god please don't put your bare hands in acetone. Unless of course you want cancer.