Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
A long time ago you demonstrated a little way to pull start lawnmowers. I use it, I'm a 67 years old, I saw my neighbor, who is older having difficulty starting a mower. So your method to the rescue. Pulling the slack out of the recoil, then pull, and at the same time push the mower forward! Vavoom started right up. He was pleased, and I gave the credit to YOU! ❤
You can also just test these by unscrewing them from the float bowl, reconnecting them to the wiring on the mower, and turning the key to the on position to see if it pulls the plunger down.
Or, once you remove the solenoid, you can just grab the plunger and move it in and out to see if it sticks. If it sticks in any position, or you push it in and it does not return to the fully extended position, then the plunger is froze up, or binding. Once i verify the plunger is not froze up, then I connect it to my 12V battery charger with two small leads and see if the plunger will energize.
I have a B and S 19.5 hp Model 31q677 and replaced the starter, solenoid and coil and now it turns over and will run with some starter fluid but isn’t getting any gas. Is it possibly the carburetor cut off causing the problem? Where do I find your reply? Thanks
Invaluable info about the Nikki carb. Who would have known these secrets that are crucial for fixing a huge percentage of Briggs engines??? Thanks, Chichanic!!
One of the best Nikki videos I’ve seen, we’ve all watched just about everyone on UA-cam, if I had a nickel for every time I’ve dealt with a Nikki carb I’d be a millionaire! Thanks Bre for this, always love your videos!
This is the first time I've seen your video. How refreshing it was to watch you. Just plain easy to understand conversation and demonstration. I will be watching the rest of your videos. Great tips. I learned a lot. Thank you
Thank you so much for this tip. I inherited another non-running riding mower (JD L105) from a neighbor that otherwise looked to be in good shape and decided it would be.a good project for my 19 year old son to get his hands dirty with. It wasn't starting at all. Spark was fine, but spraying starter fluid into the carb or even directly into the cylinder didn't work. Compression was fine. Before getting to the carb we popped the valve cover and found the valves completely out of adjustment with one rocker completely pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction! We adjusted the valves properly and the engine was able to start but was running very rough with the choke open. Closing the choke smoothed it out somewhat but it still ran really lousy. Ordered the kit you recommended, disassembled and sprayed out the carb, and replaced only the large gasket and the two o-rings (one on the fuel inlet on top of the float bowl and one on the main jet), as well as the needle valve attached to the float. Put it all back together and it starts right up and runs perfectly! It was a good learning experience for my son -- I figured since he is going for mechanical engineering he better get a handle on these things ;-) Thanks again.
Thanks! Briggs with Nikki carburetor. I did everything right, shut fuel off ran the gas out, and went to start it this year and it flooded out. When I took the carburetor apart the jet fell out and I had no idea where it went. Also thanks for the tip about the o ring on the fuel uptake base causing the flooding issue. I replaced it with a nitrite o ring from Harbor Freight and I'm back in business! Thanks again!
I don't understand why these places just don't stock full-range o'ring kits in different styles from AC on down to oil and fuel resistant ones then you'll have the part you need when you need it at a super low price
Thank you for all your help. There are some great channels on here, but, overall, I have found yours to be the most helpful and easy to understand. I’m a big fan.
I love your channel. I've been turning wrenches 30 years & every once in a while I'll have something stump me or have forgotten. Than maybe a day or two later or possibly a year I'll think did I check that. Sometimes I'm not sure how to test on these newer engines, carbs & governors. I'll look up your channel & see what I need to do. So far you haven't failed me yet & I always get them going. Also it's very helpful learning where to order parts. The shop in town will tell you they can't order part because they don't have a part listing. You'll leave mower, carb etc with them to try to find parts. Than go back a couple days later & they tell you you need to order a new engine because parts are no longer available. The only way to fix is order a new crate engine that had been updated. Than they charge you $200 check & advise & never even touched it. I call bs & flat refuse to go to any shop where I live. They don't have experience & get all cocky & just plain rude. There's times I just wanna drag them smart-ass kids over the counter & drag them outside. Ugh!!!
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for the info on the nikki rebuild kit. Worst carb design I have seen in 40 years. JD Zero Turn not flooding anymore...THANKS from SC
I'm a retired auto mechanic the seat for the needle valve is plastic so if the seat gets worn then you have to replace the whole entire seat that big plastic assembly was an eagle valve goes into would need to be replaced you have a nice day really enjoy your videos
I just paid $61 for a rebuild kit yesterday and only used half of what was included. What a joke. Wish I would have found your post before my purchase. Thank you for what you do Miss!!
Great video very good information thanks for sharing it have a blessed day. I left my lawnmower sitting all winter and when I tried to start it it wouldn't start after a long time I found out that the coil had quit working. These tips help alot thanks again have a blessed day
I needed to watch, as I bought a used riding mower and can't seem to get it running. I will check that fuel shut off solenoid. Thanks so much. Great video. Great Info. 😊
Thank you so much, my fuel shut off switch just decided to keep falling out. So using your info I decided to eliminate it entirely by screwing in a bolt then using JB Weld so it never leaks again. There was no sense in replacing the carb with another junk carb when it runs fine now. I'm just going to use the manual fuel shut off now, simple & cheap. 4years ago the flywheel on my 2008 Cub Cadet 1046XL cracked & separated. New flywheels were more than $200 bucks so I JB Welded it too, still works fine, JB Weld is amazing stuff!
The same thing happens in the automobile industry with different manufacturers using the same parts. I once needed a replacement throttle position sensor. While looking online, I noticed that the same sensor was used in several different cars, but guess what the prices were? From $22 up to believe it or not-$150! This part is made by a large Japanese company. The exact same part numbers etc., but depending where you bought it, whether genuine dealer part or aftermarket store, the price variation was out of this world. Just recently I had to get a MAP sensor, same thing, they were priced up to $50, I got one for $25 just by checking what other cars were using the same part. So it looks like it pays to look around in the small engine market as well. Thanks for the video Chickanic, you always have good info. Cheers from Australia.
Hard to get parts right now? Everyone is having that problem. If you can't get Briggs parts, it's serious. Often you can simply use gumout. I've fixed more briggs carbs with nothing more than gumout and compressed air. Just make sure you don't blow your parts away.
I just can't tell you how much I appreciate and enjoy your posts Ma'am. Great stuff and beats anything that's ever come out of Hollywood: entertaining, informative and has helped my get all my power toys running again without depleting my meager savings. Thanks mucho- Yuda Best Miss Chikanick!
you just saved me bucks. therefore, you're cool. the battery trick works like a charm. Your tips also helped me diagnosis other carb issues. Very nice.
Since leaving auto mechanics and returning to lawn equipment, where it all started for me, I have come to detest Nikki carbs. We didn't have near the problems with the old style all metal carbs of yesteryear. Thanks for the info for sure.
My Troy-Bilt 15.5hp rider was misfiring like crazy. Bought a new carb. It ran smoother but was still missing. Fiddled with it to no end. Took my old carb apart. And looky there... the piston was all gummed up. Took it out, worked it and cleaned until it freed back up. Bought that gasket kit and did the mini rebuild. Runs like an absolute champion again and my dumb self was about to give it away and spent $4,000 on a zero turn. This video saved my ass.... and $4,000. I just wish I would have seen it 6 days ago. Sigh... I hate small engines.
Need to also check it plugged into the engine harness, should have 12 volts on the red wire. Can be checked with a volt/ohm meter or a cheap test light.
I love learning about all the parts & your explanations of how, why and why not etc… is excellently explained. Added bonus is your voice and delivery isn’t grating nor distracting~ really helps me stay focused on content. Gotta say your voice would sound good as a DJ/radio . 👍
I purchased a Kohler 2275701-S this morning on line for just under $40.00. The price has gone up a bit in two years. Of course that price includes about ten dollars or so in shipping & handling charges. Good Video. I’m hoping to bring one of the Intek engines back to life real soon. It was overfueling to the point of hydrostatic locking the engine. Initially I thought there was a cam problem but I adjusted the valves and discovered that it was working correctly. Then I removed the spark plug…
Hi.A lot of us have figured out these tricks.but my question is sometimes the carb is too far gone and needs replacing.so up here we go with the A/M as the cost is dirt cheap versus OEM.Wee take our chances.Ex.that carb costs close too 300.00 cdn. from Briggs and freaks the costomer out.The prices in Canada almost exceed the value of the engine.You get my drift.You are doing great info vids keep up the good work
I was fighting with one of these earlier today. As soon as the owner said he put a new carb on, I cringed. I'm glad he kept the original. I was able to clean and rebuild it and get it to work. He got one cut off of the aftermarket and it never ran again.
I have to say that I am very impressed with you and your knowledge, skills and willingness to share not just the why it's broken and how to fix it but ways to get the right parts and for the least money. This is about my tenth video of yours and I would like to hear some of how you got started in this work and who or how did you learn so much?
Awesome ! I've been active on youtube for about a year a now and I only have gained 21 subscribers by far ... But my channel revolves around electric fans radios and other , but I'm happy to see a woman with a drew driver in her hand , not too many of those out there , keep up the good work! 😃👍👍
Thanks for the tip. Might come in pretty handy. That fuel shut off solenoid failed after about a year on my new Husq mower. Funny, I have messed around with small engines for 60 years and we never had to have fuel shut off solenoid, ever! So, I ground the tip off the plunger and away we went. Just to be sure I don't fill the CC with gas, I put a shut off valve in the fuel line. I "usually" remember to shut it, but I have had no problems since I did that. I suspect there are a lot of them modified in this manner. I know, you can't recommend it.
Good video! Back when I was still active,if the cust would swear on a stack of bibles that,he ,was the sole operator of the unit,I would unscrew the solenoid on carb, and,replace it with a honda bowl nut. no more sticking plungers! Also,if you take the mn jet o-ring to a car parts store,who has an assortment of metric o-rings,you can get that o-ring. FYI.
Before they put electic fuel shutoffs on carbs they used a brass "screw, bolt, whatever it's called" to hold the float bowl on. When I had one that the fancy electic unit got damaged, I pulled one of the old fasioned "screws" off another carb I had and ... never looked back! No leak, no shutoff to go bad! New and improved be damned!
I agree, jet fell out and I don't know if the small end goes in first or the larger end. She fiddled with the jet a few seconds but never showed which end went into the carb first
Realize this is an older video but I just watched it. Several years ago my neighbor blew the engine on his older Murray tractor with a Briggs Intek. I grabbed a bunch of parts from it for my Nikki Intek MTD/Briggs Intek tractor, one of which was, lo & behold, a Walbro carb. Sure enough, the Briggs parts listing shows both a Walbro & a Nikki. So I swapped his Walbro for my Nikki & have had fewer problems with the Walbro, in fact none. Most folks don't know that an aftermarket Walbro (don't think an OEM is available anymore) is readily available online for under $15-$20. I agree, aftermarket can be iffy but not always. Anyway, the Walbro # is LMT 5-4993 As Chickanic warns, check to make sure the fuel hose barb lines up for your model.
Great video, thanks!! Ya pretty much all aftermarket carbs are junk, thanks for the video, mine will run until it floods then I pull the fuel line off the pump & it runs until it starves. Tried the cleaners, still floods. Guess I gotta get into the carb......
You can buy the O rings for the jets individually in bulk online. I had a seal company in Texas manufacture me 1000 of them made out of Super Viton so they last longer. I think individual cost was around 1.25 per O ring but I have seen them in standard viton for as cheap as 80 cents each. You can also purchase the fuel inlet O rings as well individually in bulk. I got out of rebuilding any Nikki carburetors, unfortunately even when the parts cost are not a factor they just seem to never be perfect once they are gunked up bad, even with ultra sonic cleaner. Briggs now sales a (Walbro copy) replacement upgrade carb that’s manufactured by Ruxing which is a China manufacturer. They do have flaws but are 100 times batter than the NIKKI junk.
There's a company called The O-ring Store that would have the correct o-rings. I have bought replacement o-rings for my garden hose quick connects. They are not expensive.
You're right about Eliminator performance he shows how to fix parts like you are here instead of replacing them , and yes I tested 9volt batteries like that for a long time till I figured out hey there is a tester for that.
Greetings Chickanic You seem to have missed out on the one point which I need most! What is the proper direction to put the jet back in? I dont know when you posted this nor do I know if you are still receiving comments to this page?? Love your lessons! I have actually learned a lot more from your videos than from all the others I have watched.
On my 24hp (vertical shaft) Kohler I had a amount of white plastic pieces in the elbow of the fuel inlet. When I flushed the system I found several more. I have a stainless steel final fuel filter on the line. I purchased the unit, (Cub Cadet Z-Force L 48) new, so the carb had never been off. It was bad enough the engine only ran at about 40% RPM. I ended up using an O-Ring on the fuel bowl and had to replace the inlet needle and seat. A silicon will swell up if exposed to any petroleum product, so the best choice to me was the cheap old Butyl Rubber one. So far no leaks after 3 years. I still have no idea where the plastic came from. I am a experienced tool maker and mechanical engineer, and I do have a lot of experience with O-Rings. My best tool for O-Rings is a very old button hook. It never catches or tears them. Love your videos! Thanks you for taking the time to do them. Smiles!
I had this fuel cutoff solenoid die in the middle of mowing on my 48" tractor - the solenoid went open circuit and the engine stopped. I hacked the plunger so I could finish mowing and thankfully my local small engine shop had a replacement on the shelf!
i found this video very interesting ,,the kohler hack is good to know , i have dealt with a few of these nikkei carbs and they are very reliable for the most part ,,the steel bowl Walbro carb used on the older briggs is always having issues especially with rust caused by the steel bowl drawing moisture during storage
Could not, for the life of me, get the new primary jet to pop in place inside the new transfer tube that came in the kit I purchased. Very frustrating. Had to use the old transfer tube with the new jet and o ring. Passed a pressure test. I wish you had taken the time to show that procedure and show if that primary jet is suppose to be flush with the tube. Thank you, you're the best!
Okay I just found your channel and I love the meticulous nature of the way you explain each issue! I am learning so much about engines I don't even own. I do own a pressure washing company and will be visiting frequently for tips and tricks on fixing my Simpsons. Thanks!
Great video! My first Gravely zero turn had a dual barrel Nikki carb. Most aggravating carb I've ever dealt with. I put a BRAND NEW carb on it and it still wouldn't run right. Great info about the new kit too. I'll keep that in mind when I make my next purchase.
Great info. I've ran into o ring problems with these before. One of my hacks for the inlet o ring is to salvage a section of the old gasket that goes between the body and the white part. There is a round section that is just right to make a suitable replacement.
Lol. The best fix for a Nikki carb is to find the nearest trash can, and deposit it there. Make sure there is a bag in the can so you don't have to touch it again. An aftermarket carb is cheaper than a gasket for a Nikki (if it is even available), and most of the time they run better too.
You are right. There are 100s of videos on rebuilding Nikki carbs for lawn mowers, and I'm about 40 into the play list, and not a single one shows how to replace the choke lever spring. Any advice would be great.
Awsome. Thanks for the information. I'll share this with everyone at work. I knew about the original. I didn't know about the Kohler kit. Thanks again.
YOU ROCK... I went ot bed last night thinking of going with the new carb $125... vr the $65 kit I found..and it also did not have the small jet o-ring..... now!!! 8-) I can get everything for $20.... LOVE and Kisses ...
My Ariens 42 lawn tractor with a Briggs 18.5 hydro locked and flooded the whole engine without me knowing it until I went to start it a few months after I used it last. Found it broke the camshaft to I’m not happy with Briggs and obvious why I use to have a hard time to get it to turn over when I turn the key so sure the cylinder was full of fuel. Ariens never put a fuel shut off on the mower but I figured they must have had something to stop the fuel from doing this.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
The more I watch this young lady's videos, the more I like her. Clear and consise videos too!
You're the prettiest mechanic I ever seen
Isn't it amazing when someone actually wants to do something good how easy it is Thanks Kohler for such a kit.
A long time ago you demonstrated a little way to pull start lawnmowers. I use it, I'm a 67 years old, I saw my neighbor, who is older having difficulty starting a mower. So your method to the rescue. Pulling the slack out of the recoil, then pull, and at the same time push the mower forward! Vavoom started right up. He was pleased, and I gave the credit to YOU! ❤
You can also just test these by unscrewing them from the float bowl, reconnecting them to the wiring on the mower, and turning the key to the on position to see if it pulls the plunger down.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of having to find a 9-volt battery. Your suggestion is much simpler. 😊
Just did this today won’t pull it down unless you slightly touch it. Then it hold down well. I’ll try some penetrating oil in the morning. 🤞
Good info
Or, once you remove the solenoid, you can just grab the plunger and move it in and out to see if it sticks. If it sticks in any position, or you push it in and it does not return to the fully extended position, then the plunger is froze up, or binding. Once i verify the plunger is not froze up, then I connect it to my 12V battery charger with two small leads and see if the plunger will energize.
I have a B and S 19.5 hp
Model 31q677 and replaced the starter, solenoid and coil and now it turns over and will run with some starter fluid but isn’t getting any gas. Is it possibly the carburetor cut off causing the problem? Where do I find your reply? Thanks
Invaluable info about the Nikki carb. Who would have known these secrets that are crucial for fixing a huge percentage of Briggs engines??? Thanks, Chichanic!!
One of the best Nikki videos I’ve seen, we’ve all watched just about everyone on UA-cam, if I had a nickel for every time I’ve dealt with a Nikki carb I’d be a millionaire! Thanks Bre for this, always love your videos!
Thanks for the shout-out Chickanic!
Thanks for making awesome content!! Love your videos!
Went to your shop this week and you fixed me up with new jet and o-ring. Mower is working great! No more surging! Thanks so much!
Yay!
Would you share the shop number
I fix really old engines
This is the first time I've seen your video. How refreshing it was to watch you. Just plain easy to understand conversation and demonstration. I will be watching the rest of your videos. Great tips. I learned a lot. Thank you
Thank you so much for this tip. I inherited another non-running riding mower (JD L105) from a neighbor that otherwise looked to be in good shape and decided it would be.a good project for my 19 year old son to get his hands dirty with. It wasn't starting at all. Spark was fine, but spraying starter fluid into the carb or even directly into the cylinder didn't work. Compression was fine. Before getting to the carb we popped the valve cover and found the valves completely out of adjustment with one rocker completely pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction! We adjusted the valves properly and the engine was able to start but was running very rough with the choke open. Closing the choke smoothed it out somewhat but it still ran really lousy. Ordered the kit you recommended, disassembled and sprayed out the carb, and replaced only the large gasket and the two o-rings (one on the fuel inlet on top of the float bowl and one on the main jet), as well as the needle valve attached to the float. Put it all back together and it starts right up and runs perfectly! It was a good learning experience for my son -- I figured since he is going for mechanical engineering he better get a handle on these things ;-) Thanks again.
Thanks! Briggs with Nikki carburetor. I did everything right, shut fuel off ran the gas out, and went to start it this year and it flooded out. When I took the carburetor apart the jet fell out and I had no idea where it went. Also thanks for the tip about the o ring on the fuel uptake base causing the flooding issue. I replaced it with a nitrite o ring from Harbor Freight and I'm back in business! Thanks again!
I don't understand why these places just don't stock full-range o'ring kits in different styles from AC on down to oil and fuel resistant ones then you'll have the part you need when you need it at a super low price
Thank you for all your help. There are some great channels on here, but, overall, I have found yours to be the most helpful and easy to understand. I’m a big fan.
I love your channel. I've been turning wrenches 30 years & every once in a while I'll have something stump me or have forgotten. Than maybe a day or two later or possibly a year I'll think did I check that. Sometimes I'm not sure how to test on these newer engines, carbs & governors. I'll look up your channel & see what I need to do. So far you haven't failed me yet & I always get them going. Also it's very helpful learning where to order parts. The shop in town will tell you they can't order part because they don't have a part listing. You'll leave mower, carb etc with them to try to find parts. Than go back a couple days later & they tell you you need to order a new engine because parts are no longer available. The only way to fix is order a new crate engine that had been updated. Than they charge you $200 check & advise & never even touched it. I call bs & flat refuse to go to any shop where I live. They don't have experience & get all cocky & just plain rude. There's times I just wanna drag them smart-ass kids over the counter & drag them outside. Ugh!!!
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for the info on the nikki rebuild kit. Worst carb design I have seen in 40 years. JD Zero Turn not flooding anymore...THANKS from SC
You said it right, you will save me a ton of money. The Nikki I took apart looks to have a worn o ring.Thank You
I'd put a bolt in the hole,.......and put a 1/4 inch shut off valve in,.....problem solved.
But always great video's.
I'm a retired auto mechanic the seat for the needle valve is plastic so if the seat gets worn then you have to replace the whole entire seat that big plastic assembly was an eagle valve goes into would need to be replaced you have a nice day really enjoy your videos
I just paid $61 for a rebuild kit yesterday and only used half of what was included. What a joke. Wish I would have found your post before my purchase. Thank you for what you do Miss!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for that tip about the Kohler carb rebuild kit for the Nikki CRAP carburetors!!!! That was a fantastic find!!!!
Great video very good information thanks for sharing it have a blessed day. I left my lawnmower sitting all winter and when I tried to start it it wouldn't start after a long time I found out that the coil had quit working. These tips help alot thanks again have a blessed day
I needed to watch, as I bought a used riding mower and can't seem to get it running. I will check that fuel shut off solenoid. Thanks so much. Great video. Great Info. 😊
Thank you so much, my fuel shut off switch just decided to keep falling out. So using your info I decided to eliminate it entirely by screwing in a bolt then using JB Weld so it never leaks again. There was no sense in replacing the carb with another junk carb when it runs fine now. I'm just going to use the manual fuel shut off now, simple & cheap. 4years ago the flywheel on my 2008 Cub Cadet 1046XL cracked & separated. New flywheels were more than $200 bucks so I JB Welded it too, still works fine, JB Weld is amazing stuff!
The same thing happens in the automobile industry with different manufacturers using the same parts. I once needed a replacement throttle position sensor. While looking online, I noticed that the same sensor was used in several different cars, but guess what the prices were? From $22 up to believe it or not-$150! This part is made by a large Japanese company. The exact same part numbers etc., but depending where you bought it, whether genuine dealer part or aftermarket store, the price variation was out of this world. Just recently I had to get a MAP sensor, same thing, they were priced up to $50, I got one for $25 just by checking what other cars were using the same part.
So it looks like it pays to look around in the small engine market as well. Thanks for the video Chickanic, you always have good info. Cheers from Australia.
This is great to know. I do wish Briggs would be more sympathetic to the consumers when it comes to repairing and replacing carbs. Thank you.
Hard to get parts right now? Everyone is having that problem. If you can't get Briggs parts, it's serious.
Often you can simply use gumout. I've fixed more briggs carbs with nothing more than gumout and compressed air. Just make sure you don't blow your parts away.
Just got a mower with a nikki and the Kohler kit solved all my problems Thanks
Thank you Bre for the information you were right and I was wrong. You make a great info videos and now youe #1 fan.
I just can't tell you how much I appreciate and enjoy your posts Ma'am. Great stuff and beats anything that's ever come out of Hollywood: entertaining, informative and has helped my get all my power toys running again without depleting my meager savings. Thanks mucho- Yuda Best Miss Chikanick!
I have always tested 9v batteries with my tongue 👅.. gets me energized!!
Shocking
@realoldgeekster Sounds like you're a die hard!
Are you positive on that
No negative comments please.
you just saved me bucks. therefore, you're cool. the battery trick works like a charm. Your tips also helped me diagnosis other carb issues. Very nice.
Great video.😊 i have just recently replaced my carb because it was surging. New carb surging as well.
Thank You M'am!! Now I know where that little 'jet' fell out of!! Thank you X a Million!
Julio Rodriguez
Not just a beautiful woman but so smart too.
And so humble too.
Thank you so much beautiful!!
Just want to say thank you, you saved my sanity and answered a pile of questions in a short video! Lol
I bought an O ring kit that has a variety of sizes in it. Cheap, and useful. Harbor Freight.
Wow thanks for that information about the gasket set for nikki as I need one for my mower and didn't realise that kohler done the same, cheers
Since leaving auto mechanics and returning to lawn equipment, where it all started for me, I have come to detest Nikki carbs. We didn't have near the problems with the old style all metal carbs of yesteryear. Thanks for the info for sure.
My Troy-Bilt 15.5hp rider was misfiring like crazy. Bought a new carb. It ran smoother but was still missing. Fiddled with it to no end. Took my old carb apart. And looky there... the piston was all gummed up. Took it out, worked it and cleaned until it freed back up. Bought that gasket kit and did the mini rebuild. Runs like an absolute champion again and my dumb self was about to give it away and spent $4,000 on a zero turn.
This video saved my ass.... and $4,000. I just wish I would have seen it 6 days ago. Sigh... I hate small engines.
I wish I had this Kohler part number a year ago... This info you provide is very valuable,... Thank you
Excellent,excellent video.Your way of explaining and teaching your knowledge is appreciate.Good luck and keep the good work,from Puerto Rico.
Need to also check it plugged into the engine harness, should have 12 volts on the red wire. Can be checked with a volt/ohm meter or a cheap test light.
I love learning about all the parts & your explanations of how, why and why not etc… is excellently explained. Added bonus is your voice and delivery isn’t grating nor distracting~ really helps me stay focused on content. Gotta say your voice would sound good as a DJ/radio . 👍
Thank you for being a good teacher you Steve a donyboy73 doctor are extremely helpful people on you tube regard Garry from Australia cheers 😊
As soon as you brought out that 9v battery my tongue started tingling 😛 Ugh, it's Still Buzzing
I purchased a Kohler 2275701-S this morning on line for just under $40.00. The price has gone up a bit in two years. Of course that price includes about ten dollars or so in shipping & handling charges. Good Video. I’m hoping to bring one of the Intek engines back to life real soon. It was overfueling to the point of hydrostatic locking the engine. Initially I thought there was a cam problem but I adjusted the valves and discovered that it was working correctly. Then I removed the spark plug…
I just bought one today on ebay for 20.00
This is great news! I am in need of the jet now. I will order this kit ASAP!😊
Hi.A lot of us have figured out these tricks.but my question is sometimes the carb is too far gone and needs replacing.so up here we go with the A/M as the cost is dirt cheap versus OEM.Wee take our chances.Ex.that carb costs close too 300.00 cdn. from Briggs and freaks the costomer out.The prices in Canada almost exceed the value of the engine.You get my drift.You are doing great info vids keep up the good work
I have had great results with aftermarket carburetors (cheap Chinese carbs). Plug and play. $20-$40 bucks vs $60-$120, no brainer.
Moo pop pop
I was fighting with one of these earlier today. As soon as the owner said he put a new carb on, I cringed. I'm glad he kept the original. I was able to clean and rebuild it and get it to work. He got one cut off of the aftermarket and it never ran again.
I have to say that I am very impressed with you and your knowledge, skills and willingness to share not just the why it's broken and how to fix it but ways to get the right parts and for the least money. This is about my tenth video of yours and I would like to hear some of how you got started in this work and who or how did you learn so much?
Great I just save a lot. I have watched a lot of videos but this is the only one that really works for me. Thank you so much!
Awesome ! I've been active on youtube for about a year a now and I only have gained 21 subscribers by far ... But my channel revolves around electric fans radios and other , but I'm happy to see a woman with a drew driver in her hand , not too many of those out there , keep up the good work! 😃👍👍
Thanks for the tip. Might come in pretty handy. That fuel shut off solenoid failed after about a year on my new Husq mower. Funny, I have messed around with small engines for 60 years and we never had to have fuel shut off solenoid, ever! So, I ground the tip off the plunger and away we went. Just to be sure I don't fill the CC with gas, I put a shut off valve in the fuel line. I "usually" remember to shut it, but I have had no problems since I did that. I suspect there are a lot of them modified in this manner. I know, you can't recommend it.
Good video! Back when I was still active,if the cust would swear on a stack of bibles that,he ,was the sole operator of the unit,I would unscrew the solenoid on carb, and,replace it with a honda bowl nut. no more sticking plungers! Also,if you take the mn jet o-ring to a car parts store,who has an assortment of metric o-rings,you can get that o-ring. FYI.
Why change the bowl nut? Just cut the plunger stem off with a pair of side cutters.
Before they put electic fuel shutoffs on carbs they used a brass "screw, bolt, whatever it's called" to hold the float bowl on. When I had one that the fancy electic unit got damaged, I pulled one of the old fasioned "screws" off another carb I had and ... never looked back! No leak, no shutoff to go bad! New and improved be damned!
Glad I found you , You just saved me money I like that. gonna watch as many video's of your as i can . Thanks
I agree, jet fell out and I don't know if the small end goes in first or the larger end. She fiddled with the jet a few seconds but never showed which end went into the carb first
Realize this is an older video but I just watched it. Several years ago my neighbor blew the engine on his older Murray tractor with a Briggs Intek. I grabbed a bunch of parts from it for my Nikki Intek MTD/Briggs Intek tractor, one of which was, lo & behold, a Walbro carb. Sure enough, the Briggs parts listing shows both a Walbro & a Nikki. So I swapped his Walbro for my Nikki & have had fewer problems with the Walbro, in fact none. Most folks don't know that an aftermarket Walbro (don't think an OEM is available anymore) is readily available online for under $15-$20. I agree, aftermarket can be iffy but not always. Anyway, the Walbro # is LMT 5-4993 As Chickanic warns, check to make sure the fuel hose barb lines up for your model.
Great video, thanks!! Ya pretty much all aftermarket carbs are junk, thanks for the video, mine will run until it floods then I pull the fuel line off the pump & it runs until it starves. Tried the cleaners, still floods. Guess I gotta get into the carb......
You can buy the O rings for the jets individually in bulk online. I had a seal company in Texas manufacture me 1000 of them made out of Super Viton so they last longer. I think individual cost was around 1.25 per O ring but I have seen them in standard viton for as cheap as 80 cents each. You can also purchase the fuel inlet O rings as well individually in bulk. I got out of rebuilding any Nikki carburetors, unfortunately even when the parts cost are not a factor they just seem to never be perfect once they are gunked up bad, even with ultra sonic cleaner. Briggs now sales a (Walbro copy) replacement upgrade carb that’s manufactured by Ruxing which is a China manufacturer. They do have flaws but are 100 times batter than the NIKKI junk.
There's a company called The O-ring Store that would have the correct o-rings. I have bought replacement o-rings for my garden hose quick connects. They are not expensive.
@@briantayes2418 I used them for a hard to find O ring for my home inlet water pressure control valve.
Do you know the model #?
You're right about Eliminator performance he shows how to fix parts like you are here instead of replacing them , and yes I tested 9volt batteries like that for a long time till I figured out hey there is a tester for that.
Greetings Chickanic You seem to have missed out on the one point which I need most! What is the proper direction to put the jet back in? I dont know when you posted this nor do I know if you are still receiving comments to this page?? Love your lessons! I have actually learned a lot more from your videos than from all the others I have watched.
Very valuable info, thanks much. Will help many. Some things in this I didn't know .
On my 24hp (vertical shaft) Kohler I had a amount of white plastic pieces in the elbow of the fuel inlet. When I flushed the system I found several more. I have a stainless steel final fuel filter on the line. I purchased the unit, (Cub Cadet Z-Force L 48) new, so the carb had never been off. It was bad enough the engine only ran at about 40% RPM.
I ended up using an O-Ring on the fuel bowl and had to replace the inlet needle and seat. A silicon will swell up if exposed to any petroleum product, so the best choice to me was the cheap old Butyl Rubber one. So far no leaks after 3 years. I still have no idea where the plastic came from.
I am a experienced tool maker and mechanical engineer, and I do have a lot of experience with O-Rings. My best tool for O-Rings is a very old button hook. It never catches or tears them.
Love your videos! Thanks you for taking the time to do them.
Smiles!
I had this fuel cutoff solenoid die in the middle of mowing on my 48" tractor - the solenoid went open circuit and the engine stopped. I hacked the plunger so I could finish mowing and thankfully my local small engine shop had a replacement on the shelf!
very helpful. you're awsome Chikanic!
Awesome thanks for the info. Saw you one the video with Donny and Steve you all were great.
Thank You. Problem solved after using your test method!!
Thank you! Gas flooded my smapper Briggs and Stratton engine this winter. Learning the hard way. Bummer.
Thanks for the info. You are so helpful to a lot of people, including myself.
i found this video very interesting ,,the kohler hack is good to know , i have dealt with a few of these nikkei carbs and they are very reliable for the most part ,,the steel bowl Walbro carb used on the older briggs is always having issues especially with rust caused by the steel bowl drawing moisture during storage
Could not, for the life of me, get the new primary jet to pop in place inside the new transfer tube that came in the kit I purchased. Very frustrating. Had to use the old transfer tube with the new jet and o ring. Passed a pressure test. I wish you had taken the time to show that procedure and show if that primary jet is suppose to be flush with the tube. Thank you, you're the best!
I agree 100 percent. The aftermarket carbs suck.
Cool videos keep them coming love all the simple tricks and advice
I Enjoy your Information on the Carb.
Thanks for Nikki tip my cub cadet flooded engine and into crankcase will rebuild carb and see if this gets me running again
Very helpful your a legend saved me from pulling my hair out
WHAT A GREAT FIND. Way to go kohler
Thanks for the tip and thanks for sharing your knowledge/videos!!I will be ordering a few of these Nikki kits!!
THANK YOU!!! For the info on the jet o ring & the kit part number!!!😃
Okay I just found your channel and I love the meticulous nature of the way you explain each issue! I am learning so much about engines I don't even own. I do own a pressure washing company and will be visiting frequently for tips and tricks on fixing my Simpsons. Thanks!
Great video! My first Gravely zero turn had a dual barrel Nikki carb. Most aggravating carb I've ever dealt with. I put a BRAND NEW carb on it and it still wouldn't run right. Great info about the new kit too. I'll keep that in mind when I make my next purchase.
Prefect 😊thanks hope fixes my surging issues 21 hp 2011 craftsman tractor
Great info. I've ran into o ring problems with these before. One of my hacks for the inlet o ring is to salvage a section of the old gasket that goes between the body and the white part. There is a round section that is just right to make a suitable replacement.
Man, that was awesome video Chickanic. Thanks.
Love how you share some ways to save a buck. It helps
Thank you ! you solved my demon carb flooding 🙂
Decline in quality? One word….China! I don’t know that I’ve ever used a Nikki carb…but now I know what to look for!!😁👍🏻
You rock! Thank you for gor this tip! Just ordered the kit.
Lol. The best fix for a Nikki carb is to find the nearest trash can, and deposit it there. Make sure there is a bag in the can so you don't have to touch it again. An aftermarket carb is cheaper than a gasket for a Nikki (if it is even available), and most of the time they run better too.
When I like a UA-camr I let all the ads play for them instead of skipping!
You are right. There are 100s of videos on rebuilding Nikki carbs for lawn mowers, and I'm about 40 into the play list, and not a single one shows how to replace the choke lever spring. Any advice would be great.
Hi Bre I’m happy to find ur channel thank u for posting all that info
Wow!! I’m about to work on one of these and you trenched me about these
Awsome. Thanks for the information. I'll share this with everyone at work. I knew about the original. I didn't know about the Kohler kit. Thanks again.
Wow great advice I have a niki carb and am lookinjg into this part
Got it to work thanks!
Thank you for that information. I have one of them leaky carburetors.
Your heart is in the right place. Compliments to kohler
I'll definitely need a t-shirt! Chickanick's rule!!!
Thanks Miranda!!!
YOU ROCK...
I went ot bed last night thinking of going with the new carb $125... vr the $65 kit I found..and it also did not have the small jet o-ring..... now!!! 8-) I can get everything for $20.... LOVE and Kisses ...
My Ariens 42 lawn tractor with a Briggs 18.5 hydro locked and flooded the whole engine without me knowing it until I went to start it a few months after I used it last. Found it broke the camshaft to I’m not happy with Briggs and obvious why I use to have a hard time to get it to turn over when I turn the key so sure the cylinder was full of fuel. Ariens never put a fuel shut off on the mower but I figured they must have had something to stop the fuel from doing this.