I just went to a watch store in Mexico to buy a watch strap and the store owner couldn't stop complimenting my San Martin limited edition sn004. He didn't know the brand and couldn't believe it cost me less than $200.
I've just bought one of these watches and was wearing it while watching. This is my second San Martin timepiece. Both of which I purchased as used watches but were in perfect condition. I'm so impressed by the quality. San Martin have a reputation for regulating the Seiko movements in their watches. My SN0138 is testament to this principle. Thus far it's only losing around 3 seconds per day. The 37mm diameter case is so wearable on my not so tiny wrist. This case size was commonplace sixty years ago and takes me back to when I first became interested in timepieces.
I wish more of these brands would use the Miyota's thinner movements as they can still offer them in low cost options and I know I'd pay more just to have that case thickness trimmed down. They have such a good opportunity with a closed caseback and one of the thinner automatic movements, even no date ones, to make a truly stunning watch. All the ingredients are there because you can't knock San Martin's case finishing and bracelet offerings for the price, nor can you be upset about any other dimension than thickness. If this watch had a thickness closer to 12 (11.7-12.3) I think it would be perfect although I would also appreciate an aluminum bezel insert because they both feel more vintage and take wear over the days so much better to give a watch more character. Something fautina can't do and it can elevate retro designs with honest wear and fading.
This watch eliminated most all of my negatives from my 6200; the bezel foregoes the shiny 'ring', plus the fact the bezel has a bevel, making it reach up from the side view (also like the bead-blasted finish of this bezel). It also has the on-the-fly adjustable clasp. All good, but... they could have made it thinner I believe, or at least made the sides of the case thinner for lighter weight as well as to prevent digging in on the wrist when worn snug.. Congrats to them for retiring the crystal of the 6200 series. I never liked the terrible distortion it offers. I just purchased a 37mm Watchdives BB54 'homage' with the Seiko VH31 quartz movement. It is only 11.3mm thick, and the movement does a good job of mimicking an automatic movement; but, it does not have the level of fit and finish of San Martin (it was only about $100, so they're forgiven, lol). I wish SM would use the VH31 as an option on their models like this to be able to reduce thickness, weight and cost. That might open up an entirely new market for them. Thanks for your review, I always enjoy your perspective!
Please be aware that Watch Dives have released an extremely similar watch to this but fitted with the brilliant VH31 quartz movement. At less than £100 it has become the favourite in my collection despite the yellow lume. It is fantastic that we are all being given this wide choice today.
When I first saw the BB54 I thought to myself, "Nice piece. I would jump on it if the bracelet didn't have those rivets and they had kept the pip red". I guess I'm buying a San Martin.
Funny how tastes differ - I put a regular Oyster-style bracelet on my BB58 and didn't like it anywhere near as much as the original faux-rivet one. It just looked too plain to me.
Very true, I love that they went with a standard oyster bracelet, no rivets along the edge. The red accent is nice too. Super luminova on the black dial model is a bit green in person, I almost wish I sprung for the blue.
I have the blue and it is so nice. Lume is stark white in daylight. Best blue diver I have seen in person. So, you might want to look into it next time there's a sale haha.@@RubbelisPro
I have an OG 6200 shark crown/custom printed diver (along with several other San Martins). I would never sell my "faux rivet" diver. I did have a custom aluminum bezel insert made that deleted those useless 15 minute hash ticks. I don't dive and know how to count to 15.
I put mine on a nato and absolutely love it My wrist is a weird size where if I keep a link it’s a bit too big and if I remove a link it’s maxed out on the adjustable clasp
This is the first San Martin I really like and is on my list. I might go for the blue one though, still undecided. Nice of you to include footage filmed outdoors, great review!
You continue to provide an excellent presentation with the reviews and for that you are setting a standard for a direct unbiased presentation of a broad spectrum of quality and affordable time pieces. Congratulation for setting a standard in the broad outlined number of time piece reviewers that of course with so many personality trades one out there can like or dislike what is been presented with each mannerism however your presentation is quite different because it does not come across as something as a push over or selling point but indeed allowing a well rounded fair good thinker to activate further and deeper an easy resolution to making a sound choice.
Great review, thanks! I’m glad that there are more reviews on this model as I’m seriously considering getting it. It’s just that not so black at certain light conditions dial and bezel that keep me from buying it.
If they put a Swiss movement in, I’d pay $1000 for this watch. I’ve had more expensive watches that had less in the aspect of quality and fit and finish than this San Martin. Great watch.
I had the same “retro diver” with the rivets for a few years and loved it. It was the perfect size for me, and when the black bay 54 came out, I bought it and gave the retro diver to a friend. I always felt they should offer it with the PT 5000 and keep it slimmer. Similar to their vintage explorer, which I also own and is an excellent daily wearer
The case looks very similar or nearly identical in measures and shape to the Cadisen 8206, a 37.9 mm homage of BB, crown seems also to be same looking- relatively flat and not very pronnounced in detail, and height of the case with 12.5 mm differs to the watch revieved in the video by only 0.3mm. Nevertheless these San Martin's are geourgeous addition to their catalogue, as well with their other models offered recently. Thanks for (another) great review !
I love this watch, and, luckily I was able to get a rubber strap which perfectly fits the case. Initially I checked out an Amazon affordable rubber strap for Moonswatch. Surprisingly, it fits the lug and case of San Martin SN008 👍👍
I've had this for a few days now and agree with all you say. A really great watch with a few niggles but what watch is perfect? I like the colour which can look black, dark grey or even a dark coffee brown depending on the light and I'm glad the bezel has the gold numerals and red triangle, rather than the white of the OG. It's running about -4 secs/day so very pleased with that also. My main issue is with the bezel. As you pointed out the action is light. Combined with the sharp coin edge and it has been accidently moved once. Also SM describe it as bead blasted ceramic to give the matt finish but I have already managed to scratch it, possibly when I moved the bezel. None of my other ceramics show any marks, so I am disappointed that the treatment gives a less robust finish. Despite these small issues I think the watch is a winner and I love the look and feel of it on my wrist.
Rough ceramic is hard and abrasive, it may be that the mark is material from the object you knocked that has adhered to the bezel, so it might be worth gently trying to brush the mark with a tooth brush to see if you can remove it.
I like some things most dont seem.to favour. Size(depth) doesnt really bother me unless shopping for a dress style watch And i love the applied SM sigbn on the dial.
I ordered one and it arrived nor working, so they sent me another one and just waiting for it. Only played around with it for few mins not to scratch it. But excited to wear it when the other one arrives.
I really liked the rivet bracelet but it had its problems i read...Mine is the slightly cheaper NH35 variantion 40mm i love it the lume is fantastic best ive got...But not the best homage lume ive ever had which was the Heimdallr orange SKX i had and sold....wow the lume was insane... I do like the MATT bezel insert mine has not got so more like the real version..Great review...
So, what practical difference does it make? Genuinely curious. Is there just a "ghost" date wheel you can feel or accidentally trigger when setting time?
Not sure about 13mm of thickness on a case this small. Just to put things into perspective: The original is only 11.2mm thick. I was looking at Cronos' 54-homage and that one too seems to be that thick (quoted as 13.2mm on their web-store). Which makes me wonder if those two cases are coming from the same production-line. In any .... case (har, har): Would be great to see a comparison of the SM 54 and the Cronos 54, especially since the Cronos has some interesting features you can't get on the SM. Like 4Hz movements only and the option to get it with an aluminium bezel-insert. It's also less expensive and I do prefer the fact that they seem to have gone easier on the fauxtina (no "aged" paint on the matte ceramic bezel-insert). What's holding me back is that, even in their own pics, some of the proportions look a bit off. To my eye, the rehaut looks too tall, but it's hard to tell if that would be an issue in the flesh.
Thank you for sharing 🙂 Despite the 12.9mm case height it actually wears really well. In terms of rehaut height - it is will managed. It definitely didn't stand out to me as out of proportion. In regards to Cronos comparison - it looks good and I'll try to get one in, however I don't see any obvious advantages over the SM. The proportions are almost identical, SM clasp is better IMHO, and PT5000 vs NH35 is pretty much at parity imho too, if anything I find NH35 smoother in operation and less costly to replace if need be. Thank you for watching! 🙂👍
@@V3rt1g0s Whew... thought I was the only one.. :) Case-thickness and rehaut height in particular seems like the next area the Chinese brands need to catch up in. I'm not even sure why they make them this tall/thick. The Sugess Sub for example isn't more expensive than the Cronos or SM models and it has a much less pronounced rehaut and an overall slimmer case (if only it wasn't called "Seaman" on the dial...lol!). Same goes for the Steinhart O1 models with flat crystals - whose rehaut is also nice and slim and whose overall height is somewhere between 12.5 and 13mm, according to my calipers.
My biggest problem with San Martin right now is their outright refusal to make half-links for their oyster bracelets. I can currently get a good fit on my SM watch, but I know as I continue to lose weight, I won’t be able to. Others fail to get a good fit despite the tool-free clasp. Many have asked SM for half-links, but they always respond with horrible excuses.
@@ShinyThings it’s not the same amount of travel as a glidelock found on Rolex. Half link is therefore still needed. People have this issue with Tudor’s T-fit. Lack of travel caused consumers to purchase Uncle Straps half links to get a good fit
I bought 2 for £78 (91€) from San Martin Store 3 weeks ago, one blue, one black . I couldn't believe how the set that offer out, but I jumped on it straight away hehehe. Best value for money watches I've probably bought in my entire life...
Thank you for sharing! They did much better job here than 3 years ago on the 6200 which came out with weird protruding end links and problematic clasp due to the rivets. But still it was their best seller at the time 🙂
I've hoped for years they would release a monochrome version like the new Tudor, I don't care for anything gold on my watches ,the faux rivets don't bother me one way or the other
If I am not mistaken they added 40mm version with matt ceramic bezel not only in black / blue (which is also slightly different tone than the polished original), but also green / grey. Enjoy !
San martin are nice homage to other brand,but i think they began to be too expensive when we think they are only copy or homage, of course they are better tha pagani design who have a life durability very short,but i insist ,they become too expensive.the idea for this kind of chinese brand is to be a good gadget for people like me with very cheap budget,so if they want to have a seiko or citizen price,i prefere to buy seiko,citizen or orient
I picked up the Chronos variant. Has the rivets, choice of guild or not, on bezel. And the PT5000 movement I got, is shockingly accurate. It's also a strap monster.
came for the watch, stayed for the accent
🙂
I just went to a watch store in Mexico to buy a watch strap and the store owner couldn't stop complimenting my San Martin limited edition sn004. He didn't know the brand and couldn't believe it cost me less than $200.
Thank you for sharing!
I've just bought one of these watches and was wearing it while watching. This is my second San Martin timepiece. Both of which I purchased as used watches but were in perfect condition. I'm so impressed by the quality. San Martin have a reputation for regulating the Seiko movements in their watches. My SN0138 is testament to this principle. Thus far it's only losing around 3 seconds per day. The 37mm diameter case is so wearable on my not so tiny wrist. This case size was commonplace sixty years ago and takes me back to when I first became interested in timepieces.
I wish more of these brands would use the Miyota's thinner movements as they can still offer them in low cost options and I know I'd pay more just to have that case thickness trimmed down. They have such a good opportunity with a closed caseback and one of the thinner automatic movements, even no date ones, to make a truly stunning watch. All the ingredients are there because you can't knock San Martin's case finishing and bracelet offerings for the price, nor can you be upset about any other dimension than thickness. If this watch had a thickness closer to 12 (11.7-12.3) I think it would be perfect although I would also appreciate an aluminum bezel insert because they both feel more vintage and take wear over the days so much better to give a watch more character. Something fautina can't do and it can elevate retro designs with honest wear and fading.
This watch eliminated most all of my negatives from my 6200; the bezel foregoes the shiny 'ring', plus the fact the bezel has a bevel, making it reach up from the side view (also like the bead-blasted finish of this bezel). It also has the on-the-fly adjustable clasp. All good, but... they could have made it thinner I believe, or at least made the sides of the case thinner for lighter weight as well as to prevent digging in on the wrist when worn snug.. Congrats to them for retiring the crystal of the 6200 series. I never liked the terrible distortion it offers. I just purchased a 37mm Watchdives BB54 'homage' with the Seiko VH31 quartz movement. It is only 11.3mm thick, and the movement does a good job of mimicking an automatic movement; but, it does not have the level of fit and finish of San Martin (it was only about $100, so they're forgiven, lol). I wish SM would use the VH31 as an option on their models like this to be able to reduce thickness, weight and cost. That might open up an entirely new market for them. Thanks for your review, I always enjoy your perspective!
Good review, I can see why you were disappointed by the increased thickness, 1mm extra makes a lot of difference.
Thank you for watching! 🙂 I'm not actually disappointed but rather surprised 🙂 This watch still wears really nicely! 🙂👍
San Martin, if you are going to use a movement with a date complication just use it !
Please be aware that Watch Dives have released an extremely similar watch to this but fitted with the brilliant VH31 quartz movement. At less than £100 it has become the favourite in my collection despite the yellow lume.
It is fantastic that we are all being given this wide choice today.
When I first saw the BB54 I thought to myself, "Nice piece. I would jump on it if the bracelet didn't have those rivets and they had kept the pip red". I guess I'm buying a San Martin.
Funny how tastes differ - I put a regular Oyster-style bracelet on my BB58 and didn't like it anywhere near as much as the original faux-rivet one. It just looked too plain to me.
Very true, I love that they went with a standard oyster bracelet, no rivets along the edge. The red accent is nice too. Super luminova on the black dial model is a bit green in person, I almost wish I sprung for the blue.
I have the blue and it is so nice. Lume is stark white in daylight. Best blue diver I have seen in person. So, you might want to look into it next time there's a sale haha.@@RubbelisPro
I have an OG 6200 shark crown/custom printed diver (along with several other San Martins). I would never sell my "faux rivet" diver. I did have a custom aluminum bezel insert made that deleted those useless 15 minute hash ticks. I don't dive and know how to count to 15.
The build quality is incredible 👏 San Martin. Thanks for the review !
Thanks for watching!
I put mine on a nato and absolutely love it
My wrist is a weird size where if I keep a link it’s a bit too big and if I remove a link it’s maxed out on the adjustable clasp
Good to see it's not an 1:1, at least aesthetically. I hope they develop something else in this same size.
I agree. Love the smaller sized divers we see a lot nowadays, but I don’t like the vintage yellowish color
This is the first San Martin I really like and is on my list.
I might go for the blue one though, still undecided.
Nice of you to include footage filmed outdoors, great review!
Thank you for watching! 🙂👍
I have two of the San Martin SN0138 BB 54 in the black dial and thus far these two said watches are good ..!
great cam work looks incredible
You continue to provide an excellent presentation with the reviews and for that you are setting a standard for a direct unbiased presentation of a broad spectrum of quality and affordable time pieces. Congratulation for setting a standard in the broad outlined number of time piece reviewers that of course with so many personality trades one out there can like or dislike what is been presented with each mannerism however your presentation is quite different because it does not come across as something as a push over or selling point but indeed allowing a well rounded fair good thinker to activate further and deeper an easy resolution to making a sound choice.
Thanks, I appreciate your feedback! 🙂👍
Great video! I got the black variant and this is one of the best from SM I own.
Great review, thanks! I’m glad that there are more reviews on this model as I’m seriously considering getting it. It’s just that not so black at certain light conditions dial and bezel that keep me from buying it.
I bought it and i think i like it over the black because the color makes it more unique
If they put a Swiss movement in, I’d pay $1000 for this watch. I’ve had more expensive watches that had less in the aspect of quality and fit and finish than this San Martin. Great watch.
I have the original with the rivet bracelet and capped hand stem can't beat it for a few shillings
I had the same “retro diver” with the rivets for a few years and loved it. It was the perfect size for me, and when the black bay 54 came out, I bought it and gave the retro diver to a friend. I always felt they should offer it with the PT 5000 and keep it slimmer. Similar to their vintage explorer, which I also own and is an excellent daily wearer
The case looks very similar or nearly identical in measures and shape to the Cadisen 8206, a 37.9 mm homage of BB, crown seems also to be same looking- relatively flat and not very pronnounced in detail, and height of the case with 12.5 mm differs to the watch revieved in the video by only 0.3mm. Nevertheless these San Martin's are geourgeous addition to their catalogue, as well with their other models offered recently. Thanks for (another) great review !
🤩 I really enjoyed this balanced and insightful review 🙏
Awesome, thank you! 🙂👍
I love this watch, and, luckily I was able to get a rubber strap which perfectly fits the case. Initially I checked out an Amazon affordable rubber strap for Moonswatch. Surprisingly, it fits the lug and case of San Martin SN008 👍👍
Thanks for sharing!
I've had this for a few days now and agree with all you say. A really great watch with a few niggles but what watch is perfect?
I like the colour which can look black, dark grey or even a dark coffee brown depending on the light and I'm glad the bezel has the gold numerals and red triangle, rather than the white of the OG. It's running about -4 secs/day so very pleased with that also.
My main issue is with the bezel. As you pointed out the action is light. Combined with the sharp coin edge and it has been accidently moved once. Also SM describe it as bead blasted ceramic to give the matt finish but I have already managed to scratch it, possibly when I moved the bezel. None of my other ceramics show any marks, so I am disappointed that the treatment gives a less robust finish.
Despite these small issues I think the watch is a winner and I love the look and feel of it on my wrist.
Thank you for sharing!
Rough ceramic is hard and abrasive, it may be that the mark is material from the object you knocked that has adhered to the bezel, so it might be worth gently trying to brush the mark with a tooth brush to see if you can remove it.
Thanks I'll give it a go.
Were you able to remove the scratch? It would be a shame if this bezel could be easily scratched
Bought mine a couple months back, such a great watch!
SN004 is the best I think, very similar but a tiny bit bigger and printed logo instead of applied.
I like some things most dont seem.to favour.
Size(depth) doesnt really bother me unless shopping for a dress style watch
And i love the applied SM sigbn on the dial.
Thank you for sharing! 🙂👍
I ordered one and it arrived nor working, so they sent me another one and just waiting for it. Only played around with it for few mins not to scratch it. But excited to wear it when the other one arrives.
I really liked the rivet bracelet but it had its problems i read...Mine is the slightly cheaper NH35 variantion 40mm i love it the lume is fantastic best ive got...But not the best homage lume ive ever had which was the Heimdallr orange SKX i had and sold....wow the lume was insane... I do like the MATT bezel insert mine has not got so more like the real version..Great review...
This is a very nice watch. Thanks for the great review ! Wish they'd use the NH38 though. Price of the movements are almost identical.
So, what practical difference does it make? Genuinely curious. Is there just a "ghost" date wheel you can feel or accidentally trigger when setting time?
You should try the Octopus Kraken BB58, you'll be surprized of it's quality.
Not sure about 13mm of thickness on a case this small. Just to put things into perspective: The original is only 11.2mm thick. I was looking at Cronos' 54-homage and that one too seems to be that thick (quoted as 13.2mm on their web-store). Which makes me wonder if those two cases are coming from the same production-line. In any .... case (har, har): Would be great to see a comparison of the SM 54 and the Cronos 54, especially since the Cronos has some interesting features you can't get on the SM. Like 4Hz movements only and the option to get it with an aluminium bezel-insert. It's also less expensive and I do prefer the fact that they seem to have gone easier on the fauxtina (no "aged" paint on the matte ceramic bezel-insert). What's holding me back is that, even in their own pics, some of the proportions look a bit off. To my eye, the rehaut looks too tall, but it's hard to tell if that would be an issue in the flesh.
Thank you for sharing 🙂 Despite the 12.9mm case height it actually wears really well. In terms of rehaut height - it is will managed. It definitely didn't stand out to me as out of proportion. In regards to Cronos comparison - it looks good and I'll try to get one in, however I don't see any obvious advantages over the SM. The proportions are almost identical, SM clasp is better IMHO, and PT5000 vs NH35 is pretty much at parity imho too, if anything I find NH35 smoother in operation and less costly to replace if need be. Thank you for watching! 🙂👍
I have the same problem with the Cronos version of this watch. The rehaut looks SUPER thick.
@@V3rt1g0s Whew... thought I was the only one.. :)
Case-thickness and rehaut height in particular seems like the next area the Chinese brands need to catch up in. I'm not even sure why they make them this tall/thick. The Sugess Sub for example isn't more expensive than the Cronos or SM models and it has a much less pronounced rehaut and an overall slimmer case (if only it wasn't called "Seaman" on the dial...lol!). Same goes for the Steinhart O1 models with flat crystals - whose rehaut is also nice and slim and whose overall height is somewhere between 12.5 and 13mm, according to my calipers.
Thanks for the review, my preference is the larger model. Can someone give the SM Purchasing Manager directions to the NH38 factory😂
😂
My biggest problem with San Martin right now is their outright refusal to make half-links for their oyster bracelets. I can currently get a good fit on my SM watch, but I know as I continue to lose weight, I won’t be able to. Others fail to get a good fit despite the tool-free clasp. Many have asked SM for half-links, but they always respond with horrible excuses.
On a fly adjustable clasp is their possible solution to half link absence, I guess 🤔 Thank you for watching! 🙂👍
@@ShinyThings it’s not the same amount of travel as a glidelock found on Rolex. Half link is therefore still needed. People have this issue with Tudor’s T-fit. Lack of travel caused consumers to purchase Uncle Straps half links to get a good fit
I bought it yesterday for £167. That is about one twentieth of the OG cost.
I bought 2 for £78 (91€) from San Martin Store 3 weeks ago, one blue, one black . I couldn't believe how the set that offer out, but I jumped on it straight away hehehe. Best value for money watches I've probably bought in my entire life...
This would be on its way to me right now if it had a riveted bracelet and a sub-11 mm case height. Put in a 9039 and give us a proper watch.
Even just the 9039 would be enough for most people, I think, just to get the case thickness to where it should be on a 37mm watch.
what’s your wrist size ?
Well made..The only problem is people don't like Tudor.
great presentation, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
If it was 11.5 thick I would've consider it. 13 is way to much for me.
It’s beautiful, but that yellow around the bezel is pretty bad. I think the blue one is the way to go.
Thank you for sharing! 🙂👍
Beautiful watch! Unfortunately just a little too small for me. 39mm is my limit.
Luckily the 39mm is still available and with different movement variations! 🙂👍
Look at the SN004 V2 San Martin x Watch Dives collab. It’s almost identical to this watch, only difference is it’s 39mm at the bezel
Nice video!
Do you think there's enough links to remove to fit a 6 inch wrist?
SN0138 or SN004 V2? Which one is better?
I trying to decide between these two right now 😂 which one did you decide to go with? They’re almost identical
the gilt is too yellow and the black is not black enough. I own 4 SM, this model still need a few more iterations to get it right.
Thank you for sharing! They did much better job here than 3 years ago on the 6200 which came out with weird protruding end links and problematic clasp due to the rivets. But still it was their best seller at the time 🙂
Is this considered a dress watch or can it be worn with casual wear?
Do u prefer this or san martin 6200? Which is better quality?
Does anyone know if the SM bracelet would fit a Tudor 54? Just as an extra bracelet when the rivets need a little rest.
How many links can be removed?
Damn that sucks about the thickness i wonder if its possible to mod it to make it thinner
I've been wearing this sn0138 for a week now. The watch is well proportioned and thickness is not a problem, not for me anyway 🙂
Rivets as on Cronos
I've hoped for years they would release a monochrome version like the new Tudor, I don't care for anything gold on my watches ,the faux rivets don't bother me one way or the other
Do they have a 40mm version with this matte bezel ??
If I am not mistaken they added 40mm version with matt ceramic bezel not only in black / blue (which is also slightly different tone than the polished original), but also green / grey. Enjoy !
@@indyawichofficial1346what’s the model number? I wasn’t aware of this
San martin are nice homage to other brand,but i think they began to be too expensive when we think they are only copy or homage, of course they are better tha pagani design who have a life durability very short,but i insist ,they become too expensive.the idea for this kind of chinese brand is to be a good gadget for people like me with very cheap budget,so if they want to have a seiko or citizen price,i prefere to buy seiko,citizen or orient
Too bad about that case slimness.
Indices could have been bigger
ghost date position kind of a turn off
Give me the rivets!!
🙂👍
I picked up the Chronos variant. Has the rivets, choice of guild or not, on bezel. And the PT5000 movement I got, is shockingly accurate. It's also a strap monster.
If it was 11.5 thick I would've consider it. 13 is way to much for me.
Lol 😂 I had 36mm Titanium Tissot in late 90th and actually thought it was on a larger side 😶 what was thinking 🙅♂️Thank you for watching! 🙂👍