I was just going through all the step by step in my Haynes Manual for replacement of the water pump and Timing belt, it mentions nothing about removing the Engine Mount. My engine is an AEG and the Vehicle is a 1999 VW Jetta. Your video is very thorough and in depth. Many tried to make a video on this but fell short. They ended up explaining most of it with little hands on that was actually viewable. I'm sure that's what everybody is impressed with your video. Thanks again for posting.
Just did this job and then found this video. This is right on accurate! Motor mount is a bit difficult to maneuver out but can be done. I would strongly recommend changing the water pump and tensioner pulley while the engine is apart. Gates and Dayco sell kits with all three parts for less than the sum individually.
Thanks for this very helpful video. I just replaced my first timing belt, tensioner, and water pump! (2005 Golf). The main accessory pulley would NOT come off, so I needed a pulley puller. Also, I bought new bolts for the motor mount, as they shouldn't be re-used. Take care.
Planning on doing this on my Golf next week (along with a burned valve replacement), doesn't look quite as challenging as I first thought. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, I am doing a 2006 Mk5 Golf GTI, however the steps appear to be almost identical. Always good to get a visual demo of the steps !
thank you very much for the info. it prepared me perfectly for the job. everything went smoothly accept trying to get that darn mount back in. not sure what that other guy was doing wrong, but you helped me a great deal.
I'm sorry to say but at 13:07, you inadvertantly gave out some terrible advice. When you inserted the snap ring pliers into the two holes and rotated clockwise, you actually released any tension that may have been in the tensioner. To set the correct tension you're supposed to rotate the two holes counter clockwise until the pointer on the back of the tensioner lines up with the "V" shaped marker on the back of the tensioner, then tighten up the tensioner nut. Failing to set the tension properly is almost guaranteeing engine failure.
Just done mine.hardest part of the job was the 4 Allen key bolts on crankshaft.had to buy a impact wrench.they are tight.first time I've done job like this.my car was overheating gti golf.i had the water pump propeller just come off the drive shaft.sorted now
Thanks for the video, missing some instructions for setting tensioner and the importance off replacing tty bolts for engine mounts (and water pump if replacing).
I looked up Jeremy Clarkson and saw that he is a motor sports newscaster from the UK. You are right, he does look like me, especially from certain angles.
There is a mark on the engine block above the crankshaft pulley, but it is not very clear or precise. I would guess that why the put in that window on the torque converter. When the crankshaft is being turned, there is no timing below. The purpose of turning it is to get the crankshaft and cam shaft at the proper angle before putting on the timing belt, or the engine will run out of synch, backfire, if it runs at all. The last sentence you wrote is correct. Yes.
The holes have to be re-drilled slightly larger and then re-threaded using a tap tool. Change the oil afterward to remove the metal shavings that fell inside the crank case before starting the engine. The drill size must match the tap size exactly. Google "drill and tap chart" and watch videos on how to use a tap tool. Best of luck to you on this frustrating circumstance, one I have been in many times. Keep up your spirits.
It was a good idea to change the water pump when the timing belt was changed because VW had defective water pumps in a lot of engines (see our VW water pump video). Yes, you can change the tensioner without replacing the timing belt and it is not very hard or time consuming. The noise may not be the tensioner, so be careful to not jump to conclusions. It is more likely a loose timing belt cover or other loose part that could be a snap to fix. Try to locate the sound & check for loose things.
It is an interference head. This makes it important to either leave the crank and cam shafts in the same rotational position as when removed, or to set both to top dead center before placing head back on block.
The star/torx tool for the splash shield(not to mention hundreds of other fasteners on this and other German makes) is called a triple square. I got mine from NAPA auto Parts
I would recommended to wait till the engine is cooled down, for approx. 4 hours, Highly recommended to use locking tools for camshaft and crankshaft, then I would replace it with kit incl. water pump,roller and tensioner, set every think up as described and crank it twice in full cycle to ensure that the cam and crank shaft are properly adjusted, then check the marks
Correct. The mark is a line with a circle on the top. You keep turning the engine crankshaft and it will eventually appear in the window. It indicates TDC for Cylinder No. 1. You align two marks on the crankshaft pulley and engine, but those are very hard to see and not as precise as using that window.
@eldoradony Thanks for your posting. Yes, the original VW water pumps break down frequently and earlier than they should, so replacing them with a water pump with a metal impellar is ALWAYS a good idea. I don't know, and haven't had a bad experience with the tensioner pulley, but it is no doubt a good idea to replace it.
One thing I wanted to add early on in the video. I just went on a head and removed the tire. Easy to do and will give you optimum room and light in that area so you can see. I have the car sitting on jacks. I'm going to tackle this on vacation within the week. It's a second car. I would like to be operating it as it is my economy mileage vehicle over my 4.0 liter V6 truck. I'm finding out VW did not make this vehicle maintenance friendly. Transmission service, Spark plugs etc...Pain in the Butt!
Yes. Line up the flywheel (torque converter on automatics) and make sure the overhead cam sprocket is lined up on the mark. That's all. The mark on the crank pulley is not useful in my opinion, as it and the matching mark (yes, it is actually really there) are hard to see and inaccurate. This is undoubtably why they went through the trouble of making a flywheel/torque converter peephole. Best of luck on your work.
@TheWarRelic You only need to line of the square window with the white mark if you take the timing belt off. As long as the timing does not come off, you can use either method.
Probably too late now but I had the same issue with one of those bolts. After going through many drill bits and breaking an EZ out, I ended up hammering a 12m socket onto the bolt head and then broke it off. The rest came right out after that!
I've viewed your video a few times and this time around I'm taking notes and steps. I've also read the procedures out of a Haynes manual and they actually have you remove the spark plugs off. Did you do this? I replaced those plugs about two months ago. That in itself is a pain in the ass. The worst of it just getting the boots off of those recessed plugs. Now I know there is a special tool for that...that is even better than those curbed end needle nose pliers. Haynes has you relieve fuel psi.
A light wack with a rubber mallet should take it right off. If not, and if your pulley is actually being held on by that 19mm bolt (the crankshaft bolt), then you have a different engine that this one. If it is different, and the crankshaft bolt is holding on the pulley, there is a good chance that you do not need to remove the pulley to replace the timing belt.
Thanks much for this video it helped me so much when doing this. I'm a bit confused. Towards the end of the video you put the timing belt on and then checked the crankshaft TDC mark on the flywheel, which was off. You proceeded to turn the crank and get the TDC mark visible through the window. So were you turning the crankshaft alone or did you turn it with the belt on it? You didn't say that you removed the belt before turning, so wouldn't that mean the timing would still be off because the belt would pull the cam with it?
What a great video! I really appriciate it because I am getting my timing belt, water pump and serpentine belt all replaced tomorrow and was very curious as to how it was all put together. I am at just over 90,000 miles on my New Beetle which has this same engine in it and am curious. Just how often should I get the timin belt replaced? I know at 100,000 miles is the recommended but will my new one be the same or should I get it check again sooner. Thanks again for the awesome video! :)
Thanks for video! Converter window question is your assistant rotated the crank while you watched the window. Is there a matching mark you were seeing? Also, as you turned the crank with timing belt mounted, you are turning the cam shaft as well. Since moving both shafts, how would then assure TDC for piston one was also the alignment necessary for the Cam shaft? You did move crank, now did you realign the Cam Shaft to marks while rotated to cylinder 1 was TDC? Thanks so much!
Very helpful video, YeechBlitz. May I ask how many miles was on this VW when the video was shot? I just want to get an idea how many driven miles would cause such condition on the timing belt. I have a 2001 VW Golf GLS with a 2.0L engine, I believe it is the same as the Jetta, I only have 89,850 miles on it as of today. Should I wait another 10,000 miles when it gets to 100,000 miles as recommended by VW or should I find a trusted mechanic and do the timing belt change now? Thank you.
Very helpful video, one question. I tried to get the 4 bolts off the crankshaft pulley(6mil hex) but two of those bolts are now stripped. The EZ out screw did not work. What should I do?
Yes, both the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley will move back and forth in either direction. If the timing belt is off, you can damage the valves by mashing them into the piston if you move either of those pulleys back and forth too aggressively. As you say, it is best to leave both pulleys untouched.
It could be lot of things, including clogged air filter or lack of air flow elsewhere, clogged fuel lines or fuel filter (especially if it coughs on acceleration), a timing problem such as slipped timing belt or computer problem, a lot of tests would need to be done to figure it out.
Ahh! I thought the video made it look like the timing belt was already mounted when you were rotating the crank. So just seeing the line/circle in the window is enough to position to TDC - there is no stationary mark on the window or block to rotate precisely to?
My 2002 Golf has been sitting for awhile and I'm not exactly sure what the problem is or even could be, never drove it too much as it would only go 65mph. There's not really any shaking and it drives pretty smooth, RPMs top out at about 3k, it just won't go any faster. I drove it today and got on the highway for the first time in a couple months only to discover that its new top speed is 40mph. Any direction or pointers would be much appreciated. Thanks and take care.
Thank you for the video, i have a question, can i replace only the timing belt tensioner?, cause last time i paid for the timing belt, water pump to be changed, i was on a budget and the mechanic said it was not needed to replace the tensioner, but now that i detect the cover was loosen i can hear a noise from there. If possible, what steps in this video i can jump. Thank you...
It is very informal -- no camera person or tripod available -- had to do four things with two hands. After supporting the engine by jack-under-oil-pan, you might be able to remove the engine mount without disturbing the timing belt. If not, loosen the pulley that puts tension on belt with tension, move or remove as much of the timing belt as needed to get the part out, and when done, put timing belt back, and tighten the tensioner. Do not start (crank) engine or turn cam shaft when belt is off.
YeechBlitz, Excellent youtube video Questions regarding setting timing, If you move lets say the cam when you remove the timing belt after setting TDC will it move back and forth meaning turn right or turn left? I know when you set the TDC you are turning the crankshaft pulley right. Does this happen frequently where a tech removes the belt and somehow the crank or camshaft moves? I've never touched them with the timing belt off so I don't know how easy it is to turn them with the belt off....
Misfiring means a timing problem, as if the cam shaft and crankshaft were not truly aligned at TDC (top dead center) because this sounds like the problem. Other common suspects are a bad computer, but other possibilities for similar behavior to misfiring are clogged fuel filter, water in gas tank, spark plug wires that short out, corroded or oily spark plugs, clogged air filter, and other possibilities. These have to be ruled out one at a time.
Thank you for the video. I have a VW with AZG engine that I'm in process of replacing timing belt and water pump but crank rotated when removing the 4 hex bolts from the crank pulley. Need to buy the 19mm crank bolt socket to find correct alignment @ cam and crank. Need help understanding this part. When your assistant was turning the crank sprocket with a 12 point 19mm socket wrench, was the timing belt off the crank? At around 12:05 minute mark in your video, you had just mentioned camshaft pulley arrow marks are aligned but if the crank had moved to turn the crank to top dead center mark via flywheel window on the transmission. I am assuming the timing belt would have to be off to adjust just the crankshaft.
YeechBlitz, saw your replies down near bottom of the comments list. It answered my question for setting crank timing after cam is set. However, any potential damages for moving the crank or cam w/o the belt on?
the crank has none on these engines. you rely on the cam pulley and the marks in the transmission, but if you want to check the crank, the 4 allen bolt holes should be facing 3-6-9 and 12 o' clock. An easier way is to remove the timing covers and mark the old belt and pulley in 2 different spots on the cam pulley and crank pulley. and transfer those marks to the new belt and place the belt with the marks you made on the pulley when you marked the old belt. if your engine ran fine before, it will run fine again. just do not do this is you suspect the belt has skipped a tooth but if you change the belt every 60 000 miles you will be fine doing the mark and match method. Also ALWAYS replace the tensioner because the bearing will wear out and can damage the belt and make it snap prematurely.
I have an automatic 2001 VW golf 2.0L I removed the timing belt before realizing I needed to mark where the CS was at. I have the CA at TDC but in trying to get the timing belt back on I have moved the CS a little and I am concerned that it is not where it needs to be. The VW instructions show a port that you can check on the tranny being TDC but I don't know where it is. Can you help me?
Advance Auto. All auto stores and home improvement stores carry it. Although it looks like it, it is not a true tensioner tool but a large ring snap removing tool.
ok, the hardest part of any timing belt job is taking off the crankshaft pulley and/or crankshaft bolt. It doesn't show it on this video. So how'd ya do that?
They are tough to get off and most people strip the hex head. I had to use an Irwin Bolt Extractor kit to get them out. Then just buy new ones that are NOT hex head, like 12 point, to make it easier for the next time.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on the four hex bolts, then used allen wrench (ones bent 90°). I had to insert the closed end of one my wrenches (one end is open and other is closed) to the allen wrench to use as extra leverage. One thing that I regrettably did not do is lock the crank from rotating when removing the hex bolts. Now, I know you can use a socket (set to tighten) over the center 19mm bolt with the handle wedged to the floor at 7 or 8 o'clock position. Otherwise the pulley will turn counter clockwise when removing hex bolts. Or use hex socket on impact drill.
hi, what are some common signs of a worn timing belt? my 05 Lancer only has 55000 miles but it has past the recommended "time interval" to change the TB. i am not sure if i should change it now or later. thanks
They just changed my timing belt in 2.5 hours in a repair shop on VW 2003 Jetta. Is that possible? I am wondering because everyone saying that takes 4-6 hours. Possible that they didn't change but charged me? On the top of it the car has a noise after the replacement of the timing belt. Any thoughts please.
Sir i wanna ask you about the water pump if its must be replaced with the timing belt in a VW golf 1.6 rabbit which has 76000 km , or i can just replace the belt and wait until 100.000km and then change the water pump ?
Well, I would take a wood stick and hammer and rap it lightly from many different directions. It did take a long while to figure out how to remove it, and the same when I put it back in. Take a break and go back later. If all of the bolts are removed, there is way.
hi, do you have to take the center bolt from the crankshaft after the taking off the other 4 bolts that surround it? if you do ,do you have to use a breaker bar to take it(center bolt) off? thz
Dear Y.B. This is a very good and perfectly documentated instruction for replacing the timing belt . Great Job and thanks for it
I was just going through all the step by step in my Haynes Manual for replacement of the water pump and Timing belt, it mentions nothing about removing the Engine Mount. My engine is an AEG and the Vehicle is a 1999 VW Jetta. Your video is very thorough and in depth. Many tried to make a video on this but fell short. They ended up explaining most of it with little hands on that was actually viewable. I'm sure that's what everybody is impressed with your video. Thanks again for posting.
Awesome video! Another good rule of thumb is to replace the water pump and gaskets while you have everything apart.
Just did this job and then found this video. This is right on accurate! Motor mount is a bit difficult to maneuver out but can be done. I would strongly recommend changing the water pump and tensioner pulley while the engine is apart. Gates and Dayco sell kits with all three parts for less than the sum individually.
Thanks for this very helpful video. I just replaced my first timing belt, tensioner, and water pump! (2005 Golf). The main accessory pulley would NOT come off, so I needed a pulley puller. Also, I bought new bolts for the motor mount, as they shouldn't be re-used. Take care.
Just by the beginning intro from you I know your an expert at this job.
Planning on doing this on my Golf next week (along with a burned valve replacement), doesn't look quite as challenging as I first thought. Thanks for the vid!
I've got the same car as this one-- 2004, 2.0L, BEV code. Thanks for the time spent making this video! It's very useful
A BIG thanks for your video; a friend of mine and I (mostly his work) replaced the water pump in four hours...all belts were in good shape...thanks!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, I am doing a 2006 Mk5 Golf GTI, however the steps appear to be almost identical. Always good to get a visual demo of the steps !
Nice video to see what needs to take in replacing the timing belt on those VW.
the best thing on this video is the quality and clear camera record ,do you was wearing a eyes camera man that's great thank you
amazing costume, and no gloves!! this is the mark of a true mechanic
Exactly what i was looking for, very detailed and simple ! Save my day
thank you very much for the info. it prepared me perfectly for the job. everything went smoothly accept trying to get that darn mount back in. not sure what that other guy was doing wrong, but you helped me a great deal.
Thank you sooo much for this video! It was an amazing amount of help for me to change my water pump! Once again, thanks a bunch! Very detailed!
I'm sorry to say but at 13:07, you inadvertantly gave out some terrible advice. When you inserted the snap ring pliers into the two holes and rotated clockwise, you actually released any tension that may have been in the tensioner. To set the correct tension you're supposed to rotate the two holes counter clockwise until the pointer on the back of the tensioner lines up with the "V" shaped marker on the back of the tensioner, then tighten up the tensioner nut. Failing to set the tension properly is almost guaranteeing engine failure.
Frank Howard good eye! This is critical!
Frank Howard hence why i dont trust some random on youtube lol good catch bud
Just done mine.hardest part of the job was the 4 Allen key bolts on crankshaft.had to buy a impact wrench.they are tight.first time I've done job like this.my car was overheating gti golf.i had the water pump propeller just come off the drive shaft.sorted now
Thanks for the video, missing some instructions for setting tensioner and the importance off replacing tty bolts for engine mounts (and water pump if replacing).
This is a good video. Steps well explained and in common language and well photographed, Thank You
I looked up Jeremy Clarkson and saw that he is a motor sports newscaster from the UK. You are right, he does look like me, especially from certain angles.
There is a mark on the engine block above the crankshaft pulley, but it is not very clear or precise. I would guess that why the put in that window on the torque converter. When the crankshaft is being turned, there is no timing below. The purpose of turning it is to get the crankshaft and cam shaft at the proper angle before putting on the timing belt, or the engine will run out of synch, backfire, if it runs at all. The last sentence you wrote is correct. Yes.
The holes have to be re-drilled slightly larger and then re-threaded using a tap tool. Change the oil afterward to remove the metal shavings that fell inside the crank case before starting the engine. The drill size must match the tap size exactly. Google "drill and tap chart" and watch videos on how to use a tap tool. Best of luck to you on this frustrating circumstance, one I have been in many times. Keep up your spirits.
It was a good idea to change the water pump when the timing belt was changed because VW had defective water pumps in a lot of engines (see our VW water pump video). Yes, you can change the tensioner without replacing the timing belt and it is not very hard or time consuming. The noise may not be the tensioner, so be careful to not jump to conclusions. It is more likely a loose timing belt cover or other loose part that could be a snap to fix. Try to locate the sound & check for loose things.
Real nice video..same for 2000 beetle 2.0L I assume..VW sure made this fun :\ Thanks again I need to get er done.
Laser pointers are great for these videos
It is an interference head. This makes it important to either leave the crank and cam shafts in the same rotational position as when removed, or to set both to top dead center before placing head back on block.
The star/torx tool for the splash shield(not to mention hundreds of other fasteners on this and other German makes) is called a triple square. I got mine from NAPA auto Parts
I think this guys was thinkng..."shit this is alot more work then I planned, what a pain in the nads!"
I would recommended to wait till the engine is cooled down, for approx. 4 hours, Highly recommended to use locking tools for camshaft and crankshaft, then I would replace it with kit incl. water pump,roller and tensioner, set every think up as described and crank it twice in full cycle to ensure that the cam and crank shaft are properly adjusted, then check the marks
Correct. The mark is a line with a circle on the top. You keep turning the engine crankshaft and it will eventually appear in the window. It indicates TDC for Cylinder No. 1. You align two marks on the crankshaft pulley and engine, but those are very hard to see and not as precise as using that window.
Best video Thanks for uploading
thank you for this video,well made and helped me a lot
Thanks a ton for this video! Worked great!
@eldoradony Thanks for your posting. Yes, the original VW water pumps break down frequently and earlier than they should, so replacing them with a water pump with a metal impellar is ALWAYS a good idea. I don't know, and haven't had a bad experience with the tensioner pulley, but it is no doubt a good idea to replace it.
Note to avoid striping the bolts,use Kroil bolt loosening fluid and let it sit for a few before you loosen the bolts. Works great!
Wow that belt looks chewed up yet still intact. I might as well put off the maintenance on my golf citing the wear isn't as bad as this.
One thing I wanted to add early on in the video. I just went on a head and removed the tire. Easy to do and will give you optimum room and light in that area so you can see. I have the car sitting on jacks. I'm going to tackle this on vacation within the week. It's a second car. I would like to be operating it as it is my economy mileage vehicle over my 4.0 liter V6 truck. I'm finding out VW did not make this vehicle maintenance friendly. Transmission service, Spark plugs etc...Pain in the Butt!
Yes. Line up the flywheel (torque converter on automatics) and make sure the overhead cam sprocket is lined up on the mark. That's all. The mark on the crank pulley is not useful in my opinion, as it and the matching mark (yes, it is actually really there) are hard to see and inaccurate. This is undoubtably why they went through the trouble of making a flywheel/torque converter peephole. Best of luck on your work.
@TheWarRelic You only need to line of the square window with the white mark if you take the timing belt off. As long as the timing does not come off, you can use either method.
thank you very much for this video, helps me A LOT!
Excellent video sir !
Probably too late now but I had the same issue with one of those bolts. After going through many drill bits and breaking an EZ out, I ended up hammering a 12m socket onto the bolt head and then broke it off. The rest came right out after that!
You are very helpful Man ! Thank you alot .
I've viewed your video a few times and this time around I'm taking notes and steps. I've also read the procedures out of a Haynes manual and they actually have you remove the spark plugs off. Did you do this? I replaced those plugs about two months ago. That in itself is a pain in the ass. The worst of it just getting the boots off of those recessed plugs. Now I know there is a special tool for that...that is even better than those curbed end needle nose pliers. Haynes has you relieve fuel psi.
Thanks. That was a big help.
Yes. We found that the marks on the crank gear teeth were hard to see. It could be done but it was hard to get it right confidently.
Your welcome, and I am glad the belts were good.
A light wack with a rubber mallet should take it right off. If not, and if your pulley is actually being held on by that 19mm bolt (the crankshaft bolt), then you have a different engine that this one. If it is different, and the crankshaft bolt is holding on the pulley, there is a good chance that you do not need to remove the pulley to replace the timing belt.
interesting video
enriching - tests and opinions
Notice he didn't start the car after. LOL Just kidding. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Yes, we did replace the water pump, Brunoautoshop, actually. It is shown on a another video (search on YeechBlitz VW jetta coolant pump).
From what I remember at this point, no. The nut that clamps the tensioner is a typical nut that tightens when you twist it in the clockwise direction.
Thanks much for this video it helped me so much when doing this.
I'm a bit confused. Towards the end of the video you put the timing belt on and then checked the crankshaft TDC mark on the flywheel, which was off. You proceeded to turn the crank and get the TDC mark visible through the window. So were you turning the crankshaft alone or did you turn it with the belt on it? You didn't say that you removed the belt before turning, so wouldn't that mean the timing would still be off because the belt would pull the cam with it?
Brian Parker hey man i cant find the tdc window near the transmission. do u know a way that i can find it.
Getting the side bracket back on seems impossible how did you get it back on would have loved to see that
What a great video! I really appriciate it because I am getting my timing belt, water pump and serpentine belt all replaced tomorrow and was very curious as to how it was all put together. I am at just over 90,000 miles on my New Beetle which has this same engine in it and am curious. Just how often should I get the timin belt replaced? I know at 100,000 miles is the recommended but will my new one be the same or should I get it check again sooner. Thanks again for the awesome video! :)
Thanks for video! Converter window question is your assistant rotated the crank while you watched the window. Is there a matching mark you were seeing? Also, as you turned the crank with timing belt mounted, you are turning the cam shaft as well. Since moving both shafts, how would then assure TDC for piston one was also the alignment necessary for the Cam shaft? You did move crank, now did you realign the Cam Shaft to marks while rotated to cylinder 1 was TDC? Thanks so much!
Very helpful video, YeechBlitz. May I ask how many miles was on this VW when the video was shot? I just want to get an idea how many driven miles would cause such condition on the timing belt. I have a 2001 VW Golf GLS with a 2.0L engine, I believe it is the same as the Jetta, I only have 89,850 miles on it as of today. Should I wait another 10,000 miles when it gets to 100,000 miles as recommended by VW or should I find a trusted mechanic and do the timing belt change now? Thank you.
Very helpful video, one question. I tried to get the 4 bolts off the crankshaft pulley(6mil hex) but two of those bolts are now stripped. The EZ out screw did not work. What should I do?
MASTER style!
Thanks for the video and tips!
Paul van, you don't need to remove the crank bolt. Just pull the 4 screws that hold the pulley and it will come off easily.
Yes, both the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley will move back and forth in either direction. If the timing belt is off, you can damage the valves by mashing them into the piston if you move either of those pulleys back and forth too aggressively. As you say, it is best to leave both pulleys untouched.
It could be lot of things, including clogged air filter or lack of air flow elsewhere, clogged fuel lines or fuel filter (especially if it coughs on acceleration), a timing problem such as slipped timing belt or computer problem, a lot of tests would need to be done to figure it out.
Well explained... Good job!
Does the crankshaft pulley require a puller, or does it come off by hand?
Good video, very useful
Hi, dave doris. You do NOT need to remove the center bolt in the middle of the crankshaft pulley assembly.
--Lee of YeechBlitz
Ahh! I thought the video made it look like the timing belt was already mounted when you were rotating the crank. So just seeing the line/circle in the window is enough to position to TDC - there is no stationary mark on the window or block to rotate precisely to?
nice video. what are the steps on changing the camshaft position sensor?
My 2002 Golf has been sitting for awhile and I'm not exactly sure what the problem is or even could be, never drove it too much as it would only go 65mph. There's not really any shaking and it drives pretty smooth, RPMs top out at about 3k, it just won't go any faster. I drove it today and got on the highway for the first time in a couple months only to discover that its new top speed is 40mph. Any direction or pointers would be much appreciated. Thanks and take care.
Thank you for the video, i have a question, can i replace only the timing belt tensioner?, cause last time i paid for the timing belt, water pump to be changed, i was on a budget and the mechanic said it was not needed to replace the tensioner, but now that i detect the cover was loosen i can hear a noise from there. If possible, what steps in this video i can jump. Thank you...
Amazing video! Thanks!
It is very informal -- no camera person or tripod available -- had to do four things with two hands. After supporting the engine by jack-under-oil-pan, you might be able to remove the engine mount without disturbing the timing belt. If not, loosen the pulley that puts tension on belt with tension, move or remove as much of the timing belt as needed to get the part out, and when done, put timing belt back, and tighten the tensioner. Do not start (crank) engine or turn cam shaft when belt is off.
If it is your first time, give it six hours. Second or more, 2-3 hours, if you have all the tools needed available and handy.
Hello, the timing belt's condition was very bad in the video, how many miles had it been driven to have such condition?
@eldoradony You make a good point about changing the tensioner pulley while you are at it.
YeechBlitz, Excellent youtube video Questions regarding setting timing, If you move lets say the cam when you remove the timing belt after setting TDC will it move back and forth meaning turn right or turn left? I know when you set the TDC you are turning the crankshaft pulley right.
Does this happen frequently where a tech removes the belt and somehow the crank or camshaft moves? I've never touched them with the timing belt off so I don't know how easy it is to turn them with the belt off....
Thanks, very well explained : )
Good Info. Thank you Sir.
Misfiring means a timing problem, as if the cam shaft and crankshaft were not truly aligned at TDC (top dead center) because this sounds like the problem. Other common suspects are a bad computer, but other possibilities for similar behavior to misfiring are clogged fuel filter, water in gas tank, spark plug wires that short out, corroded or oily spark plugs, clogged air filter, and other possibilities. These have to be ruled out one at a time.
Great job man
Thank you for the video. I have a VW with AZG engine that I'm in process of replacing timing belt and water pump but crank rotated when removing the 4 hex bolts from the crank pulley. Need to buy the 19mm crank bolt socket to find correct alignment @ cam and crank. Need help understanding this part.
When your assistant was turning the crank sprocket with a 12 point 19mm socket wrench, was the timing belt off the crank? At around 12:05 minute mark in your video, you had just mentioned camshaft pulley arrow marks are aligned but if the crank had moved to turn the crank to top dead center mark via flywheel window on the transmission. I am assuming the timing belt would have to be off to adjust just the crankshaft.
YeechBlitz, saw your replies down near bottom of the comments list. It answered my question for setting crank timing after cam is set. However, any potential damages for moving the crank or cam w/o the belt on?
ckkim401 i wouldn't think it would matter as long as the crank and the cam are in the proper timing
How many miles did that belt have on it? Hope it's not less than 120,000
Did i miss where the tdc marks are on at the crank? Are both the cam pully and transmission marks sufficient without considering the crank marks?
the crank has none on these engines. you rely on the cam pulley and the marks in the transmission, but if you want to check the crank, the 4 allen bolt holes should be facing 3-6-9 and 12 o' clock. An easier way is to remove the timing covers and mark the old belt and pulley in 2 different spots on the cam pulley and crank pulley. and transfer those marks to the new belt and place the belt with the marks you made on the pulley when you marked the old belt. if your engine ran fine before, it will run fine again. just do not do this is you suspect the belt has skipped a tooth but if you change the belt every 60 000 miles you will be fine doing the mark and match method. Also ALWAYS replace the tensioner because the bearing will wear out and can damage the belt and make it snap prematurely.
I have an automatic 2001 VW golf 2.0L I removed the timing belt before realizing I needed to mark where the CS was at. I have the CA at TDC but in trying to get the timing belt back on I have moved the CS a little and I am concerned that it is not where it needs to be. The VW instructions show a port that you can check on the tranny being TDC but I don't know where it is. Can you help me?
look at 12:20 hope you can see it!
The shops around us charge about $300-400, Dblade981. Might be more if you take it to a VW dealership.
Fine Video !
Can you tell where you got that nice plier tensioner tool ?
Advance Auto. All auto stores and home improvement stores carry it. Although it looks like it, it is not a true tensioner tool but a large ring snap removing tool.
Raymond Denis hi
ok, the hardest part of any timing belt job is taking off the crankshaft pulley and/or crankshaft bolt. It doesn't show it on this video. So how'd ya do that?
They are tough to get off and most people strip the hex head. I had to use an Irwin Bolt Extractor kit to get them out. Then just buy new ones that are NOT hex head, like 12 point, to make it easier for the next time.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on the four hex bolts, then used allen wrench (ones bent 90°). I had to insert the closed end of one my wrenches (one end is open and other is closed) to the allen wrench to use as extra leverage. One thing that I regrettably did not do is lock the crank from rotating when removing the hex bolts. Now, I know you can use a socket (set to tighten) over the center 19mm bolt with the handle wedged to the floor at 7 or 8 o'clock position. Otherwise the pulley will turn counter clockwise when removing hex bolts. Or use hex socket on impact drill.
hi, what are some common signs of a worn timing belt? my 05 Lancer only has 55000 miles but it has past the recommended "time interval" to change the TB. i am not sure if i should change it now or later. thanks
How many miles did that belt have on it when you changed it?
They just changed my timing belt in 2.5 hours in a repair shop on VW 2003 Jetta.
Is that possible? I am wondering because everyone saying that takes 4-6 hours.
Possible that they didn't change but charged me? On the top of it the car has a noise after the replacement of the timing belt. Any thoughts please.
Thank you sir 👌🏼
It actually doesn't seem like too bad of a job but for the engine mount. Hard to say whether it's worth paying someone to do or not.
It's easy if you're patient. People make it out to be a lot more difficult than it is
The first time you do it, 6 hours. The second time you do it, 3 hours.
Sir i wanna ask you about the water pump if its must be replaced with the timing belt in a VW golf 1.6 rabbit which has 76000 km , or i can just replace the belt and wait until 100.000km and then change the water pump ?
No, the belt is off. After the zero mark is found and the camshaft is on the OT arrow, then the belt goes on.
Well, I would take a wood stick and hammer and rap it lightly from many different directions. It did take a long while to figure out how to remove it, and the same when I put it back in. Take a break and go back later. If all of the bolts are removed, there is way.
hi, do you have to take the center bolt from the crankshaft after the taking off the other 4 bolts that surround it? if you do ,do you have to use a breaker bar to take it(center bolt) off? thz
hi Question please How much time Need to changed the timing belt jetta 2004 2.0 L Transmission Automatic ? Thank you