As a professional mechanic of over 40 years let me congratulate you on an excellent video. Actually one of the better automotive repair videos I have seen. Very thorough and precise. There's only one thing that I would do differently. I never crank the engine over with the starter. I turn the engine over by hand several several times to make sure I'm not coming in contact with a valve. And verify my timing marks. But excellent video thank you.
Hi Matt, greets from England. These are everyday fare over here, I`ve personally done 4 in the last 12 months, and they`re not too scary. Working at an independant BMW specialist, we tend to get a lot of "exotic" european marques, with some complex timing belt arrangements. But the way to be relaxed about it is to follow the universal golden rules. Always turn the engine manually TWO complete revolutions, as you did, but with the plugs removed, (I know it`s a pain, but it gives tremendous peace of mind) before you install the outer cover. If there`s going to be any kind of mechanical interference, you`ll feel it by hand, and you`ll have the opportunity to corect it. Once you`ve done that, always re-check that your timing marks/locking pins etc line up as intended, again as you correctly did. And if you want to be reassured more, do it over again. I`m not a fan of running the engine, or cranking it before I`ve replaced the cover and crank pulley. This requires you being away from the area in question there are often compenents within these that hold the belt in track, without them in place, belts can "walk" themselves off a pulley while the engine is turning if unattended. By following the hallowed golden rules, I have never had a failure. The only failures I`ve had, (and in 35 years, there`s been one or two) is when I`ve failed to follow the golden rules. As for the tensioner indicator, there`s no need to be too anal about the exact positioning, once the engine has run for a while, and the nap of the belt fibres have worn to a nice polished surface, you`ll find the the pointer will move away from the indicator anyway Hope that helps. On another note, I`m plain gobsmacked that the noise was mis-diagnosed elsewhere, ten seconds and a stethoscope, or a bar, or a screwdriver, or even a bloody pencil would have found that the noise was coming from the timing belt cover area, and about 15 minutes to get the cover off would have pinpointed the fault. Dolts.... Top show sir...Carry on... Show less ·
I stumbled on your channel recently. As a professional mechanic I have to say this is one of the best channels out there for automotive information. Please keep making these entertaining and informative videos. You claim to be a do-it-yourselfer, well I work with other "professionals" who don't possess the skills you have. Nice work.
***** Thanks John I wish I could bottle up all of the people like you- you are EXACTLY what I am looking for when I made the channel. The fact you are a professional is a huge bonus, I always appreciate the perspective from the professional side!!
Still have my 2001 Jetta 2.0 manual, drives like a fucking champ. A lot of people don’t seem to understand that VWs are not racing cars. If you drive them correctly, they’ll last 20+ years. Cheers man.
The only auto repair channel I watch. I never could understand people on different channels, so I quit wasting my time watching them. If I have questions, doubts, or need to learn how to do something - I always come straight to Matt's channel.
Hahaha thanks so much!!! Yes while there are other channels with much better technical people I also find they can fly way over most people’s heads. I try my best to bring the advanced level to the masses.
DUDE, YOU’RE A GENIUS ! There’s this other UA-camr who I should have NEVER watched he skipped all kinds of important factors and didn’t even have the proper, nor special tools to do the job RIGHT, that CRANKSHAFT MARKING is what A LOT of us NEEDED, Thank You Again !
MAN!!!! You just showed me how much mechanics actually go through to do this, but that it doesn't take two days to get it done either. Just marking and verifying all of your marking when doing it. Thanks for the videos.
I’ve watched this video a few times in the last year. Christ just blessed me with a 1999 beetle AEG today and it’s got about 233,000mi. I ordered a gates belt kit and the tool for the timing tensioner. And I bid on a whole top end gasket kit. May as well. Valve seals and a new head gasket probably won’t hurt a thing. Thanks for the excellent content.
Outstanding tuition. Hard to believe that no other video featured the importance of correct tensioning. But then again, no other channel on UA-cam can sport this guy's knowledge of the scientific aspect of auto repair.
excellent video. I'm a mechanic trained specifically for gm and Ford and have recently moved to a dealership with several German products. the biggest bane of my existence is this specific engine and vehicle. Google, UA-cam, and Mitchell's has yet to give me anything near this informative. thank you for this vehicles video. I'm sorry I don't have a dollar though!
This is the only video in the entire UA-cam video collection that guides timing belt change for a VW engine resembling my own car. See I own a Passat B5.5 with engine code AZM. A 2.0L petrol naturally aspirate engine. Thanks for the video, now I have the confidence to change my timing belt.
Honesfly, if you can change one timing belt, you can change them all. Changing a timing belt is just "wrenching" . There is really no skill needed.. I am glad the video helps but the truth is you always have the ability to change any part on any car. skill is in knowing WHAT part to change to fix it the first time
Exactly which I have been doing for the last 4yrs to maintain my Passat rather efficiently. Except for the timing belt which I never had to do up till now. I am not a mechanic either, but an auto enthusiast. As you have said the only thing to watch out is TDC (Top Dead Center) on each shafts... and then torque to specification. Thanks a bunch! a million like for you.
Turning the tensioner either direction 5 times is to settle the belt, and cam and crank sprockets into position and removes some of the slack that may be present so your belt doesn't skip when turning it over to confirm the marks, I also release the lock nut on the tensioner after barring the engine around 360 and re-tension the belt and re-set the tensioner marks once again. Just a tip from a VW tech. Nice vid and you certainly saved your friend from a catastrophic failure.
Thanks to your attention to detail on the timing belt replacement you probably saved a whole family of little engine valves. Good job and great camera work. Thanks
I've done more than 50 of these without incident. The first one is the scariest. They're really not that picky. These motors are found and serviced in parts of the world where clean water and literacy are hard to come by. They may have been designed by Germans, but most are built in Mexico of crudely cast components and inexpensive materials.... and they still just go like crazy anyway. Gotta love'em!
You are bad ass bro!! After countless hours of trying to find a competent human being that I could at least comprehend let alone believe or trust. Just when I was about to Just give up and tackle it head on I stumbled on to your video. Thank God. You made it so easy and logical that it all made sense. Thank you again my good sir
I think you have the best overall everything that makes a great tutorial: knowledge of project requirements, lighting, videography well done, simple explanation. I'm an electrician and being absolutely right when working on electrical components is absolutely essential. Being logical and smart really helps me understand with certainty, my timing belt replacement project will be done right. I believe also not coming back to a project after I have finished working on it. Well done, sir!
I am going to assume any thumbs downs are from people who have destroyed their engines or PCMs from watching my videos because they have no aptitude or don't know how to follow basic instructions... my latest known count of individuals who have done this to their own cars so far on my channel is 13. Let's see how many people there actually are like that... This should be fun!!!
Schrodingers Box I'd give anything to see the look on those thumbs downer's people's face when they learned that in just a few short seconds, they destroyed ( a thousand dollars or better ) head! 13 of them! That's incredible! LOL ! Matt I like the clamp idea you used to keep the belt from moving off the cam sprocket! I did a 2000 Volkswagen Jetta a few months back that needed a water pump after the owner was charged by a local garage $350.00 to change a thermostat that was never changed and nothing wrong with it.. I used zip ties to hold the belt, they worked great. Talk about over engineering, you have to take the entire nose ( bumper, grill, body parts, etc. ) off the car just to get at the timing belt! And yes, as one of your other viewers said Volkswagen does use a special blend called G12 Antifreeze. If I remember right it was like, $10.00 a quart! I think I still have a quart or two on the shelf in my garage. And another viewer was spot on with the labor rates being charged. Up here in CT, I won't mention the chain store garage's name, but they wanted $1,200.00 just to take off the nose of the car and another $250.00 to do the pump. So I thought I was being more than fair by charging half that! Anyway great series! Keep them coming!
Because I read a guide on a reputable forum that said to tension clockwise, I’m now praying I didn’t kill something in my engine. Thanks for the information! It’s mildly horrifying that the wrong information is SO popular.
Just bought a 04 Jetta 2.0 and it runs great no check engine light on.However I really want to change the belt and water pump and tensioner for peace of mind.Your video will be watched several times before I start and I will reference to it as I do the job.Thanks from Baltimore Maryland .
I have a similar engine requiring a new belt, i will take it to a proper VW mechanic. As this is not a belt to be replaced by an amateur. Thanks for pointing this obvious fact to me, you saved me from potentially destroying my car.
PS: this does have a timing mark on the outer crankshaft pulley (it should be at 12 o'clock, and there's a mark on the block to it)... i hope i'm not annoying... cheers!!! Kudos for the excellent work, usually the water pump is replaced with the belt and tensioner...
Great video! The reason I watched it is because I did a timing belt and water pump replacement on my 2003 2.0 VW Jetta approximately 2 to 3 years ago. I am now in the process of replacing the timing belt tensioner because the bearing is failing. Apparently, I did not install the tensioner properly. Thank you for your video.
this video is best I have seen on youtube so far great stuff but if I were to be critical I would say the only thing you should have included was the entire process of installing the belt. I am a diy guy and it reall helped I successfully completed the job. Thanks for the few tips
This is the Best description, instructional video on setting the timing belt. Step by step, accurate instructions which is the most important of this job. Thank you.
Love the idea of skipping the nuts and bolts parts, if someone complains about that, they probably shouldn't be doing this type of jobs but you already said it so GOOD JOB AGAIN.
Exactly correct. Plus I find it really cuts down on the just plain stupid comments that plague other channels. "How many bolts are there for the water pump?" "Can this problem happen from not changing your spark plugs?" "My camshaft marks line up but the crankshaft marks look off by a tooth. But when I set the crankshaft marks even, the camshaft marks look off by a tooth. Is the belt on backwards?"
This is with out any question THE BEST video on this topic ... thank you, thank you, thank you for making this ....... totally perfect! I am only days from doing my first AEG 2.0 engine timing belt service ... so glad I found your video first .... I will sure as heck give you a donation ...... so worth it
I'm a firm believer in the Dayco timing belt book. If anyone ever needed all data it would be you S...the v6 has an awesome setup for a timing belt...that would make a slick video...thumbs up!
+Schrodingers Box I have the 2.7T V6, and the procedure there is to lock both camshafts and the crank using some special tools. The sprockets can rotate on the tapered ends of the cams, and are only bolted tight at the very end. This way the timing can be adjusted exact, not half a tooth early or late. I read this procedure the last time and intended to do it myself, but I couldn't get the tools in time so I had to let the dealer do it. I have since bought the tools so I'll do it myself next time. This is a few years ago now so I don't remember every detail, but I think what I mentioned is what he was thinking of.
I came here because the timing belt and I stayed for the criticism, makes more funny the video, and He's right, some people on YT only mislead or misinform. Good work!
I truly appreciate your absolute meticulous detail, and rechecking/verifying your timing. I have an 02 Jetta 2.0 that just quit starting, it cranks but won't start and I was going over all the possibilities, one of them being timing belt. Keep posting and minus all the negative comments I take myself as an old shade tree mechanic and as long as I have s reference to from I am not afraid to try and fix it, so saving this video and look forward to any others you may post
hands down one of the best mechanics on youtube. there are 2 or 3 other honorable mentions. I hate watching people on youtube try to teach and cannot get it right. thank you for showing the PROPER way to do stuff. many will try, few will get right. subscribed.
I love your attitude. I'm ASE certified but I consider myself a DIY mechanic because I've never been formally trained by a dealer etc. One thing I do personally is I use the Crank to tension the left side of the timing belt. Where there's a gig gap between teh Cam(s) and the crank. This is generally the reason why people end up 1 tooth off. To use teh crank as a tensioner it's fairly simple. You just turn the crank clockwise about 5 degrees. So the timing marks will no longer line up on just the crank. You do this AFTER removing the old belt. All other timing marks should line up. Then you install the new belt and get it as tight as you can by hand. When your ready to tension the belt you turn the crank counter clockwise this time until the timing marks line up. This will tension the belt on the left side and remove the slop between the cams and the crank. Make sure all timing marks are lined up before you adjust the actual tensioner. This tensions other side where the water pump is. I essentially use the crank as a second tensioner. Now turn the engine over 4 complete cycles and check the timing marks. Everything should be perfect and the belt should be properly tensioned.
Dude, YOU ROCK. ! ! This is the best F'n auto video ever ! ! THANKS and at 16:22 great safety point..."" Best part 19:06 how could anyone not like this FIX / guy??
Great video on this specific application. You did great detail about the tensioner and position. I am a mechanic myself. The window at the transmission is another timing mark that you can use as an option. However, I do have just a couple of remarks. It is easy to run the belt starting at the crank like your instructions say. Your not going to rotate the crank when you pull the belt. You're the only person I have seen to bump the motor over by the switch and not have what you took loose reinstalled. And also I have never seen anyone start the motor without the motor mount installed to check your work. But you did hit the mark about the tensioner. I have seen one other video that a guy mentioned about it and that was all.
Thank you for your video sir. This is my first Volkswagen and I am in the middle of a turbocharger installation and I wanted to replace things like the timing belt, water pump, head gasket, and I also installed a set of ARP head studs while I was at it. Where I left off last night was at tensioning the timing belt and it's a good thing that I watched your video because I have the tensioner's tabs on the wrong side of the head (I went off of whoever installed the previous tensioner). Once again, thank you for your video!
Schrondingers Box thank you very much for a such a detailed video. I didn't know how important that tensioner setting was until I watched your video. I was about to drive my car and I noticed that the tensioner isn't in the right settings after installing a new timing belt... you saved my car and lots of cash for me.. I will throw a few dollars for you in the donation box! Thank you
+i pet a kitty Yeah I seldom post videos like this unless I am sure that most other videos out there are incorrect or incomplete. How it is possible that proper tension adjustment isn't covered in other videos is almost criminal IMO.
Thanks for the torque specs!!! Same engine as Seat Ibiza 2015 2.0L The serpentine belt pulley that bolts on the crankshaft socket has a notch the lines up with a notch on the inner timing belt backing plate. This is your #1 piston at TDC.
I'll be doing this repair next week under basic maintenance. Last time it was changed was 80k, and we are at about 157k currently. Car still runs like a top! Oddly enough we where at a pick and pull yard today, and I decided to inspect the timing belt on the Beetle it had in the yard. If that belt wasn't already gone? It was darn close! Back of the belt checkered with tiny splits, some pretty deep. Looks like no one paid attention to it. Probably wouldn't have lasted to long. Looked more like dry rot was starting to set in. Thanks for the detailed information on this.
VW's 1.9 Diesel is slightly easier to do as it does have the timing mark on the crank pully. Also the tensioner has a hole for an allen key to rotate it instead of the need for a special tool. Really goods videos, and love your explanations. Thank you
Thanks bud for posting this. I have a 99.5 GLS and a friend has a 01 gl that both need belts soon. couldn't find shit for info on how to do it motor in the car the right way!!! probably watched 15+ videos. time to embark into what was once the unknown.
Hey Matt. A great video. Watching you work it out as you go along with the scanner was reassuring. It was reality at work. I agree that you still need the knowledge just in case you cannot depend on your equipment. I am looking forward to part 3 with more of the same. You explain things so well and with commitment.
I have an ABA 2.0 Volkswagen engine 2001 and it has no time in tensioner like that that goes into the block and then you pull the gun sights together mine you have to use a tool in order to tighten the belt and tighten the 17 mm nut and a 13 mm to hold it something like a freeze out plug that's a neat system and you're right there's not very many tension UA-cam videos on here thank you
I was changing out my daughter's 2004 vw beetle, and you were 100% correct. If I didn't watch this video I would have fucked it up because nobody talks about tension, so all haters can choke on it. I am a subscriber love your style. thanks again.
Actually a great video. I did run into exactly that issue when i changed a timing belt on a passat last winter, it was my first time doing a timing belt and i had no idea how to set the tension. Just about every video i watched did skip this part.. (oddly enough in all my search i didn't find this video, would have helped me a lot!) Based on a vague forum post regarding a totally different vw engine that said something about aligning arrows i figured out how to set the tensioner by myself, i just turned every moving part in every direction it could go until i figured out how this thing works.. Tension was set perfectly.. sadly didn't help the engine, it was retired due to high oil consumtion soon after.
The mark on the flywheel can be very useful. You can check your timing without having to take off the crankshaft pulley (in a pinch)! Great explanation on the tensioner!
Excellent video. I was slightly disappointed not to see the engine running after the noise video, and this certainly satisfied my need for the quick gratification of seeing someone else fix an engine!
FFcossag Yeah, Coss- a lot of people mentioned that! There is now also a "bonus" video to the engine noise video which covers more material that people said I left inconclusive from the first one
Lol i know this is an old video but it popped up when i did a search. Anyway, i have the aptitude to do a timing belt replacement BUT I watch the videos for tips and tricks. I save a lot on my own time watching someone take off all the stuff needed and whatever helpful stuff they mention about the job along the way. So don't diss the simple stuff you should know if your doing this job
Excellent video! I like to watch videos before I do the job to gather as much info as possible and you helped me on loading the tensioner for the timing belt like a champ. I appreciate it and so does my girls vw beetle. Thanks!
The paint marks make it easier for you and for the next owner! Great job man. Never set timing before but I just replaced my valve springs due to a burnt few. But I have confidence I can do it.
I think you have the best overall everything that makes a great tutorial: knowledge of project requirements, lighting, videography well done, simple explanation. Thank you much for this wanderfull video.
Well done, I love your style of teaching and your frankness about the shortcomings of other instruction video's...I didn't find the link to donate though
Hey man thank you very much for this. I recently bought a 01 golf with a 2.0 and the tensioner is squeaking so i think its time to replace all of it. Only 117k miles., and this video makes it a whole lot easier 👍
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non-turbo wagon Hi Guys, I recently did my first timing belt job. I thought it went well as I started the car and the engine seemed to run fine. A couple of days later I noticed some issues with the engine and decided to get back under the timing belt cover and check things out. Timing belt itself looks fine. Crankshaft and camshaft markings all line up like they should when camshafts markings are straight up. The problem is in getting the crankshaft sprocket marking straight up. The engine is EXTREMELY resistant to being cranked over. This was not a big deal the first time around. In finishing the timing belt install I hand cranked the engine several times by hand to check the timing between the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and everything looked good. I didn't have any difficulty doing this. I bench 250lbs x 5 and deadlift 225lbs for a workout and I am now having MUCH more difficulty getting the crankshaft sprocket straight up. The engine wants to spring back against my clockwise cranking of the engine. Why I Went Under the Timing Belt Cover Again As I have been using the car in the past few days I noticed that the engine sounds like it knocks when I start it up, but it starts easily. It also makes an extra clicking sort of sound when it idles. Sometimes as it idles, around 500rpm, the revs drops a bit and the i hear/feel a knocking going on. Could that be my ECM still relearning? For the most part the car is running smoother than normal when the ECM is relearning it's fuel mixture. I notice more vibration out of the engine than normal. I have seen that before, I believe it is usually tied to a misfire in at least one of my cylinders. I have a known internal oil leak. Lately that engine vibration hasn't been present. It popped up again just after the timing belt job. Other than that the car moves as fine as it did before the timing belt job and has been driving fine. I'm not entirely sure if the knocking issues are related to my timing belt work. My main concern right now is my inability to crank the engine over by hand. Please help, I had to call off of work on account of this. I can't make any money while my car is apart or in questionable condition. I am in an emergency situation. Thanks in Advance, -AJFresh
lol i haven't tried a one rep max. most i've done lately is 250lbs. The point of mentioning the 250 is to make clear that I'm no weakling and yet I can't get the crankshaft to sit still. It continues to want to spring back out of position. Is cranking the engine in reverse out of the question?
AJFresh As I sat here attempting research, somehow out of nowhere a question popped into my mind. "Did you put the car in gear?" ?!?! Ran outside to check - yes I did. Relieved the tension on the breaker bar I locked under the AC compressor then took the car out of gear. Engine turns over like butter LOL Now I can turn to the issue that brought me back to the timing belt in the first place -Why do I have increased engine vibration? -Why is there some kind of knock/sound/brief vibration on startup? -Why does idling periodically get rough? All that comes to mind is that my cylinder heads are out of sync. Maybe I should remove the timing belt, rotate either camshaft around once from having it's timing mark straight up where it is now, and reinstall the belt. Any constructive input would be appreciated
AJFresh Its obvious the install is incorrect- redo it and try turning the crankshaft without the timing belt attached. If it doesnt turn over easily by hand then you have a major problem. actually it possible you have one anyway- you need to get back in there- actually someone with more experience who knows what to look for should do it to be honest.
Just a followup to my yesterday's comment. I removed the tensioner today and immediately saw what I had done wrong when I installed it 2 - 3 years ago. I failed to place the tensioner locking tab at the edge in the engine block. Will be paying careful attention to this detail when I install the new tensioner.
Excellent video and attention to detail. I would use the other videos to show how to access the timing belt and your video to put it all back together correctly. I had a timing belt installed by a mechanic but luckily I needed a water pump and the VW tech saw that the timing belt tensioner was put on backwards.
Thanks for another video. I'm gonna admit some past stupidity on my part........ The first timing belt I changed on an interference engine, I made sure crank was at tdc....but it was on exhaust stroke. I didn't realize until I had the belt and tensioner and water pump off. I debated putting it back together with the cam in its position 180 out, which maybe would have been the best thing to do, then recheck after rotating it to make sure I wasn't a tooth off the alignment marks. However, what I ended up doing was turning (very carefully and slowly by hand) the cam 1/8 turn, then turning crank 1/4 turn, repeat until last cam and crank markers were in correct position at tdc on compression stroke, then proceeded with belt install. I never felt a valve binding, so I guess it may needed more than 1/8 of the cam turn to cause interference - it was a 4 cylinder.....I guess it could be more risky with higher number of cylinders. After getting everything back together, compression test showed excellent compression. Probably very risky, but those mistakes are the kind I'll never make twice.
Louis Pasnik Yes it is exactly the mistake most everyone else made. But many were worse. My favorite was the guy who could not get the marks to line up no matter what he did so he decided to run the engine and see if they would "line themselves up". Jesus.
Great video! I'll be changing the water pump and timing belt tomorrow on my wife's 99 New Beetle 2.0 and will definitely use your video as reference. Thank you and keep the good videos coming.
Good vid Pattern failure may be overstating the situation but cam sensor failures are fairly common. It can be replaced without complete belt removal but not a bad idea while apart.
+Frank Totino Why on earth would anyone ever replace a cam sensor on a cam sensor code just because it is fairly common (which it absolutely is not). I don't understand. What data do you use to determine sensor failure as opposed to guessing?
Your comment leaves much to be desired. As a professional tech for the past 26yrs and having operated my own shop for the past 14, it's in our client's best interest to add these kind of repairs onto jobs...as far as it not being a common failure all I can say is you're a rank amature with little real world experience. There are comments on this video made by a gentleman out of the UK who you may want to ask...my bet is that he'll agree and probably does exactly the same for his clients. Testing the sensor is quite easy but you'll probably say you know how...other than the sensor failing the second most common would be debris blocking the sensor and window... Hopefully you know what I'm talking about...going to guess not. You should try to be more respectful because you never know with whom you're talking.
Frank Totino A lot of talk and no substance there. No substance at all. I can see you're just yet Another "professional" who just guesses instead of knowing how to gather evidence,
+Schrodingers Box This will obviously go nowhere and that's fine. What you're not getting is that the cam sensor gets replaced even if it's good and not setting a code. Good luck on 'fixing' cars.
Frank Totino Ok so you are saying to replace parts that are not broken. Got it. Dumb advice. I always diagnose and replace what's broken but if replacing whats not broken is what pro's do then I hope I never become a pro. Hey don't forget to replace all the other stuff thats not broken, mr 'Pro'. CKPS, IAT, MAF, TPS and the hundreds of other components.
good vid, couple of points tho is after installing and tensioning the belt you should turn the engine over from the crank by hand(socket/ratchet not starter motor)two full revolutions recheck your timing marks and than loosen the lock nut on the tensioner and reset the tension as you showed. this does two things 1 makes sure you wont bend a valve ie did it right, 2. moves all the belt slack to the tensioner side the way the engine does so that when you reset the tension your doing so with the correct amount of slack on the tensioner side. you have to loosen the lock nut on the tensioner or it wont move when you reset tension. for whats its worth ex ASE master tech and i always did this every t belt i did tho very important on an interference engine. normally because of service interval your changing the spark plugs so leaving them out makes turning the engine /t belt replacement much easier.
I just did this job same car yesterday and it went well. The water pump was difficult to remove because one Neanderthal rolled the o-ring out of place putting it in last time and another Neanderthal ran it on straight hose water.
I've been a VW/Audi specialist for almost ten years now. Interestingly enough, all the ABA engines I've worked on that have lost a belt have all been OK. After replacing the timing belt and related components they've all ran perfectly. the AEG, AZG, etc will damage valves more often than not if the belt fails.
I wish more people would see your comment- there have been so many people telling me this is not an interference engine. It certainly is and in fact at one pount when turning the crank I experienced the interference myself and had to turn the cam to get clearance. My experience in general is interference engines with broken belts meet their fate more than half the time. This owner was very lucky.
Schrodingers Box I've seen my share of the newer 2.0 8V engines that had lost the timing belt, and had bent valves. $1400 to $1600 dollars later your back on the road, and that's IF the cylinder head can be salvaged. It pays to replace the timing belt and related components at the specified interval, or you can pay out the nose when it fails. And if you get REALLY lucky and don't have bent valves, you better go out and buy some lotto tickets ASAP because you'll probably end up a millionaire.
Chester Wardan Just out of curiousity would you agree with me: Out of the maybe 10 cars I have seen with timing belts failures only maybe 2 of them actually had strictly belt failure- the other 80% were all timing component failure (sometimes causing the belt to fail)-frozen water pump, broken tensioner, frozen or broken pulleys, etc. I.E. changing the components is possibly MORE important than changing the belt itself.
Schrodingers Box As a "Professional" I would tell you changing everything at the same time, at the specified interval, is the best way to go. Obviously were not talking about making repairs due to a belt/component failure here. Strictly as a regular maintenance routine. I've given your initial question some thought, and to be completely honest I can't agree, nor disagree because you can't accurately anticipate any one particular component failure. Maybe I'm missing something here, but it would be unreasonable to replace everything BUT the belt at say 40K or 50K because you think one of those components may fail. Could you do it on your own car just because you wanted to? absolutely. It becomes a "while I'm in there" type of situation at that point. You've already got the belt off, from a monetary standpoint it just makes sense to spend the additional X number of dollars and replace the belt. I've seen a fair number of failed timing components and probably 80% of the time it's been the belt. That's just my experience up to this point.
+Mario Millan pretty sure anyone with basic comprehension can do this themselves. There is no skill needed in spinning a wrench to remove and replace bolts.
I found your video helpful, replaced timing belt water pump tensioner. One other thing most popular video don't say is the camshaft seal needs to be replaced and seen the difficulty I'm not going to do that; but if next time you wanna do a video for it would be helpful. Ciao
Come on ! This is your calling. You do this perfectly with you very true scientific method. Why not talking alittle bit more about that method in one of your videos?. BTW You well deserve that dollar. Lol another great video.
The "Stupid" mark on the flywheel is 3 to 4 times more accurate than your paint mark on the pulley. It is much farther from the rotational center. A small bump, lets say a quarter of a tooth on the crank would show an obvious full tooth on the flywheel. That's why its on the flywheel. All the european cars have it on the flywheel for accuracy. I agree a mark and pointer on the belt side would be helpful. Thanks for your video, Ill be doing this in a bit.
+0xxRainbowsOnFirexx0 Because when you put the belt on, it is obvious that the timing is finally set by the teeth spacing, the timing therefore either is or is not at TDC on final install. Therefore it is obvious that the stupid mark cannot be "more accurate"- much less 3-4 times. When you do this install you will understand.
+Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix I used the Bentley manual for install - the procedures written there recommend using the mark on the flywheel for crankshaft timing.....
The mark on the flywheel is very accurate and that is the mark that should be used. You should also use timing mark on the crank but the flywheel side is very important
Techi Brant yes there is a window on the automatic transmission just did one it’s not in the same exact spot but a little below were the manual one is located. They are easier to see than the manual transmission due to the location and they look like humps. Good luck with yours
Great vid! One quick point: timing marks don't necessarily need to coincide with TDC. I did a Volvo XC90 T6, and those marks were a smidge after TDC. Same style tensioner... but more finicky. VW' s are just notorious with their timing marks.
Oh dear god what an awesome, and thorough video. I'm officially a fan. I'm doing this tomorrow, and man, you are funny! I agree that the flywheel mark is stupid hahahaha. +1 on the tensioner I would have done it wrong for sure. Also good tip on painting your own marks on the crank
Whenever I do a job I search for info from multiple sources, never trusting one source alone. I get a little nervous when people ask questions that show they haven't done the effort, blindly trusting all they were told. This one certainly adds to the knowledge base. The other angle that may be a surprise is when professionals say they use a different method than that recommended in the dealers manual. Most of the time I give the dealers manual the last word, under the assumption they are anticipating other problems that might occur. For example the 5X movement of the tensioner may be to put the blame squarely on the technician in case of immediate replacement failure. A faulty part should be easily detected if the tech does the procedure right.
spelunkerd Agree 100% Dave, on all counts. One exception- sometimes when there are discrepancies with what a professional suggests vs the manual, I will research and TSB's that show the professional is indeed using updates made after release of the manual. BTW- you and Terry will LOVE my next video.... I can't wait to release it!!!!
you're great BOX this video it's for people who wants to learn,,,, not for the ones that think they know already how to do it hahaha your good I really like how you explain 👍
Did one some years back... "An annoying chirping noise" they said. The bearing had failed in the original tensioner had failed so the edge of the pulley was eating into the belt. The belt was barely a quarter inch wide.
Simon Parkinson I have seen this on other cars too! On a ford escort there were literally just a few strands on the belt!! The inside of the timing cover looked like a birds nest lol!!!
Like you said, it is so much easier to route the new belt starting with the relaxed tensioner. Just no way the new belt was going over those tensioner ridges, had to go with camshaft first, then tensioner, followed by crankshaft pulley, then the waterpump last. Took 1 minute. (Does help to leave the belt half-sticking/hanging off shafts, so it is a smidge easier to rotate it when pulling onto waterpump)
yes it is right ! nobody exlpains properly how to set the tensionner. I PERSONNALY LIKE YOUR VIDEOS- AT LEAST YOU CARE FOR DIYERS (WHO ARE NOT PROFESSIONAL BY THE WAY) .KEEP DOING YOUR VIDS :-)
This was amazing! It was super detailed and informative, and makes me feel a lot more confident about embarking on this endeavour next week. If I don't fuck it up, I will gladly give you a dollar of the four hundred I saved.
As a professional mechanic of over 40 years let me congratulate you on an excellent video. Actually one of the better automotive repair videos I have seen. Very thorough and precise. There's only one thing that I would do differently. I never crank the engine over with the starter. I turn the engine over by hand several several times to make sure I'm not coming in contact with a valve. And verify my timing marks. But excellent video thank you.
Hi Matt, greets from England. These are everyday fare over here, I`ve personally done 4 in the last 12 months, and they`re not too scary. Working at an independant BMW specialist, we tend to get a lot of "exotic" european marques, with some complex timing belt arrangements. But the way to be relaxed about it is to follow the universal golden rules. Always turn the engine manually TWO complete revolutions, as you did, but with the plugs removed, (I know it`s a pain, but it gives tremendous peace of mind) before you install the outer cover. If there`s going to be any kind of mechanical interference, you`ll feel it by hand, and you`ll have the opportunity to corect it.
Once you`ve done that, always re-check that your timing marks/locking pins etc line up as intended, again as you correctly did. And if you want to be reassured more, do it over again.
I`m not a fan of running the engine, or cranking it before I`ve replaced the cover and crank pulley. This requires you being away from the area in question there are often compenents within these that hold the belt in track, without them in place, belts can "walk" themselves off a pulley while the engine is turning if unattended. By following the hallowed golden rules, I have never had a failure. The only failures I`ve had, (and in 35 years, there`s been one or two) is when I`ve failed to follow the golden rules.
As for the tensioner indicator, there`s no need to be too anal about the exact positioning, once the engine has run for a while, and the nap of the belt fibres have worn to a nice polished surface, you`ll find the the pointer will move away from the indicator anyway
Hope that helps.
On another note, I`m plain gobsmacked that the noise was mis-diagnosed elsewhere, ten seconds and a stethoscope, or a bar, or a screwdriver, or even a bloody pencil would have found that the noise was coming from the timing belt cover area, and about 15 minutes to get the cover off would have pinpointed the fault. Dolts....
Top show sir...Carry on...
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Simon Crane Thanks, brilliant comment, cheers!
I stumbled on your channel recently. As a professional mechanic I have to say this is one of the best channels out there for automotive information. Please keep making these entertaining and informative videos. You claim to be a do-it-yourselfer, well I work with other "professionals" who don't possess the skills you have. Nice work.
***** Thanks John I wish I could bottle up all of the people like you- you are EXACTLY what I am looking for when I made the channel. The fact you are a professional is a huge bonus, I always appreciate the perspective from the professional side!!
Still have my 2001 Jetta 2.0 manual, drives like a fucking champ. A lot of people don’t seem to understand that VWs are not racing cars. If you drive them correctly, they’ll last 20+ years. Cheers man.
The only auto repair channel I watch. I never could understand people on different channels, so I quit wasting my time watching them. If I have questions, doubts, or need to learn how to do something - I always come straight to Matt's channel.
And the sarcasm and insults for the idiots is always a plus.
Hahaha thanks so much!!! Yes while there are other channels with much better technical people I also find they can fly way over most people’s heads. I try my best to bring the advanced level to the masses.
DUDE, YOU’RE A GENIUS ! There’s this other UA-camr who I should have NEVER watched he skipped all kinds of important factors and didn’t even have the proper, nor special tools to do the job RIGHT, that CRANKSHAFT MARKING is what A LOT of us NEEDED, Thank You Again !
MAN!!!! You just showed me how much mechanics actually go through to do this, but that it doesn't take two days to get it done either. Just marking and verifying all of your marking when doing it. Thanks for the videos.
I’ve watched this video a few times in the last year. Christ just blessed me with a 1999 beetle AEG today and it’s got about 233,000mi. I ordered a gates belt kit and the tool for the timing tensioner. And I bid on a whole top end gasket kit. May as well. Valve seals and a new head gasket probably won’t hurt a thing. Thanks for the excellent content.
Outstanding tuition. Hard to believe that no other video featured the importance of correct tensioning. But then again, no other channel on UA-cam can sport this guy's knowledge of the scientific aspect of auto repair.
Let me know if you know someone in Los Angeles who can do this specific job on a 2002 Jetta 2.0
excellent video. I'm a mechanic trained specifically for gm and Ford and have recently moved to a dealership with several German products. the biggest bane of my existence is this specific engine and vehicle. Google, UA-cam, and Mitchell's has yet to give me anything near this informative. thank you for this vehicles video. I'm sorry I don't have a dollar though!
This is the only video in the entire UA-cam video collection that guides timing belt change for a VW engine resembling my own car. See I own a Passat B5.5 with engine code AZM. A 2.0L petrol naturally aspirate engine.
Thanks for the video, now I have the confidence to change my timing belt.
Honesfly, if you can change one timing belt, you can change them all. Changing a timing belt is just "wrenching" . There is really no skill needed.. I am glad the video helps but the truth is you always have the ability to change any part on any car. skill is in knowing WHAT part to change to fix it the first time
Exactly which I have been doing for the last 4yrs to maintain my Passat rather efficiently. Except for the timing belt which I never had to do up till now. I am not a mechanic either, but an auto enthusiast.
As you have said the only thing to watch out is TDC (Top Dead Center) on each shafts... and then torque to specification.
Thanks a bunch! a million like for you.
Turning the tensioner either direction 5 times is to settle the belt, and cam and crank sprockets into position and removes some of the slack that may be present so your belt doesn't skip when turning it over to confirm the marks, I also release the lock nut on the tensioner after barring the engine around 360 and re-tension the belt and re-set the tensioner marks once again. Just a tip from a VW tech. Nice vid and you certainly saved your friend from a catastrophic failure.
Ps. The correct position for the tensioner is the locating tag in the Welch plug recess, I think you inadvertently got it in the right position.
Anyone in Los Angeles that you can HIGHLY recommend to do this job for a 2002 Jetta 2.0 LI?
@@2secondslater EXACTLY!!!
Thanks to your attention to detail on the timing belt replacement you probably saved a whole family of little engine valves. Good job and great camera work. Thanks
+FRED ANDERSON Glad it helped! you can be confident your belt is properly installed for sure. good job!
sea nv bn. mfv
I've done more than 50 of these without incident. The first one is the scariest. They're really not that picky. These motors are found and serviced in parts of the world where clean water and literacy are hard to come by. They may have been designed by Germans, but most are built in Mexico of crudely cast components and inexpensive materials.... and they still just go like crazy anyway. Gotta love'em!
Hey Brian hope things are going well. Thanks for stopping by!
It’s nice to see two of my favorite mechanic UA-camrs talk and salute;)
Instablaster...
You are bad ass bro!! After countless hours of trying to find a competent human being that I could at least comprehend let alone believe or trust. Just when I was about to Just give up and tackle it head on I stumbled on to your video. Thank God.
You made it so easy and logical that it all made sense. Thank you again my good sir
Oh wow man what a compliment!! Thank you!!
I think you have the best overall everything that makes a great tutorial: knowledge of project requirements, lighting, videography well done, simple explanation. I'm an electrician and being absolutely right when working on electrical components is absolutely essential. Being logical and smart really helps me understand with certainty, my timing belt replacement project will be done right. I believe also not coming back to a project after I have finished working on it. Well done, sir!
Anyone in Los Angeles CA that you can refer for this job - 2002 VW Jetta 2.0
I have watched several of your videos now. You are the most professional non-professional mechanic I have run across.
I am going to assume any thumbs downs are from people who have destroyed their engines or PCMs from watching my videos because they have no aptitude or don't know how to follow basic instructions... my latest known count of individuals who have done this to their own cars so far on my channel is 13.
Let's see how many people there actually are like that... This should be fun!!!
Hehe, loooooool.
Schrodingers Box why isn't there a button to give it a thumbs up more than one time?
EngrChillaX There is... it's called the "support this channel" button ;-)
Schrodingers Box I'd give anything to see the look on those thumbs downer's people's face when they learned that in just a few short seconds, they destroyed ( a thousand dollars or better ) head! 13 of them! That's incredible! LOL !
Matt I like the clamp idea you used to keep the belt from moving off the cam sprocket! I did a 2000 Volkswagen Jetta a few months back that needed a water pump after the owner was charged by a local garage $350.00 to change a thermostat that was never changed and nothing wrong with it.. I used zip ties to hold the belt, they worked great. Talk about over engineering, you have to take the entire nose ( bumper, grill, body parts, etc. ) off the car just to get at the timing belt! And yes, as one of your other viewers said Volkswagen does use a special blend called G12 Antifreeze. If I remember right it was like, $10.00 a quart! I think I still have a quart or two on the shelf in my garage.
And another viewer was spot on with the labor rates being charged. Up here in CT, I won't mention the chain store garage's name, but they wanted $1,200.00 just to take off the nose of the car and another $250.00 to do the pump. So I thought I was being more than fair by charging half that! Anyway great series! Keep them coming!
Billy R People who own Volkswagens are probably used to throwing money out the window.
Because I read a guide on a reputable forum that said to tension clockwise, I’m now praying I didn’t kill something in my engine.
Thanks for the information! It’s mildly horrifying that the wrong information is SO popular.
Just bought a 04 Jetta 2.0 and it runs great no check engine light on.However I really want to change the belt and water pump and tensioner for peace of mind.Your video will be watched several times before I start and I will reference to it as I do the job.Thanks from Baltimore Maryland .
I have a similar engine requiring a new belt, i will take it to a proper VW mechanic. As this is not a belt to be replaced by an amateur. Thanks for pointing this obvious fact to me, you saved me from potentially destroying my car.
PS: this does have a timing mark on the outer crankshaft pulley (it should be at 12 o'clock, and there's a mark on the block to it)... i hope i'm not annoying... cheers!!!
Kudos for the excellent work, usually the water pump is replaced with the belt and tensioner...
Great video! The reason I watched it is because I did a timing belt and water pump replacement on my 2003 2.0 VW Jetta approximately 2 to 3 years ago. I am now in the process of replacing the timing belt tensioner because the bearing is failing. Apparently, I did not install the tensioner properly.
Thank you for your video.
this video is best I have seen on youtube so far great stuff but if I were to be critical I would say the only thing you should have included was the entire process of installing the belt. I am a diy guy and it reall helped I successfully completed the job. Thanks for the few tips
+Lloyd Lazarus ANyone can turn a wrench so there is no need to show a step by step on how to just spin bolts.
+Schrodingers Box What type of camera is that being used? Feels like that camera goes anywhere like a little bug.
This is the Best description, instructional video on setting the timing belt. Step by step, accurate instructions which is the most important of this job. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
it wasn’t just that I liked it. It was f, outstanding.
To the point and accurate.
Thanks again.
Love the idea of skipping the nuts and bolts parts, if someone complains about that, they probably shouldn't be doing this type of jobs but you already said it so GOOD JOB AGAIN.
Exactly correct. Plus I find it really cuts down on the just plain stupid comments that plague other channels. "How many bolts are there for the water pump?" "Can this problem happen from not changing your spark plugs?" "My camshaft marks line up but the crankshaft marks look off by a tooth. But when I set the crankshaft marks even, the camshaft marks look off by a tooth. Is the belt on backwards?"
This is with out any question THE BEST video on this topic ... thank you, thank you, thank you for making this ....... totally perfect! I am only days from doing my first AEG 2.0 engine timing belt service ... so glad I found your video first .... I will sure as heck give you a donation ...... so worth it
+Rick S. Wow thanks man! what a great compliment!!!
I'm a firm believer in the Dayco timing belt book. If anyone ever needed all data it would be you S...the v6 has an awesome setup for a timing belt...that would make a slick video...thumbs up!
area46241 I wonder what's different about the V6?
+Schrodingers Box I have the 2.7T V6, and the procedure there is to lock both camshafts and the crank using some special tools. The sprockets can rotate on the tapered ends of the cams, and are only bolted tight at the very end. This way the timing can be adjusted exact, not half a tooth early or late.
I read this procedure the last time and intended to do it myself, but I couldn't get the tools in time so I had to let the dealer do it. I have since bought the tools so I'll do it myself next time.
This is a few years ago now so I don't remember every detail, but I think what I mentioned is what he was thinking of.
I came here because the timing belt and I stayed for the criticism, makes more funny the video, and He's right, some people on YT only mislead or misinform.
Good work!
Most people on the internet mislead or misinform- especially on automotive. . about 98% of them in fact.
I truly appreciate your absolute meticulous detail, and rechecking/verifying your timing. I have an 02 Jetta 2.0 that just quit starting, it cranks but won't start and I was going over all the possibilities, one of them being timing belt. Keep posting and minus all the negative comments I take myself as an old shade tree mechanic and as long as I have s reference to from I am not afraid to try and fix it, so saving this video and look forward to any others you may post
If you are in Los Angeles or know someone in L.A. who can do this job, let me know
Sorry- I’m not there nor know anyone sorry.
hands down one of the best mechanics on youtube. there are 2 or 3 other honorable mentions. I hate watching people on youtube try to teach and cannot get it right. thank you for showing the PROPER way to do stuff. many will try, few will get right. subscribed.
Let me know if you know someone in Los Angeles CA who can do this specific job.
I love your attitude. I'm ASE certified but I consider myself a DIY mechanic because I've never been formally trained by a dealer etc. One thing I do personally is I use the Crank to tension the left side of the timing belt. Where there's a gig gap between teh Cam(s) and the crank. This is generally the reason why people end up 1 tooth off. To use teh crank as a tensioner it's fairly simple. You just turn the crank clockwise about 5 degrees. So the timing marks will no longer line up on just the crank. You do this AFTER removing the old belt. All other timing marks should line up. Then you install the new belt and get it as tight as you can by hand. When your ready to tension the belt you turn the crank counter clockwise this time until the timing marks line up. This will tension the belt on the left side and remove the slop between the cams and the crank. Make sure all timing marks are lined up before you adjust the actual tensioner. This tensions other side where the water pump is. I essentially use the crank as a second tensioner. Now turn the engine over 4 complete cycles and check the timing marks. Everything should be perfect and the belt should be properly tensioned.
Do you know someone in Los Angeles, CA who can do this specific job - 2002 Jetta 2.0?
Dude, YOU ROCK. ! ! This is the best F'n auto video ever ! ! THANKS
and at 16:22 great safety point...""
Best part 19:06
how could anyone not like this FIX / guy??
+George Fenrich Lol thanks man, that's how we roll on this here channel!!!
Great video on this specific application. You did great detail about the tensioner and position. I am a mechanic myself. The window at the transmission is another timing mark that you can use as an option. However, I do have just a couple of remarks. It is easy to run the belt starting at the crank like your instructions say. Your not going to rotate the crank when you pull the belt. You're the only person I have seen to bump the motor over by the switch and not have what you took loose reinstalled. And also I have never seen anyone start the motor without the motor mount installed to check your work. But you did hit the mark about the tensioner. I have seen one other video that a guy mentioned about it and that was all.
Thank you for your video sir. This is my first Volkswagen and I am in the middle of a turbocharger installation and I wanted to replace things like the timing belt, water pump, head gasket, and I also installed a set of ARP head studs while I was at it. Where I left off last night was at tensioning the timing belt and it's a good thing that I watched your video because I have the tensioner's tabs on the wrong side of the head (I went off of whoever installed the previous tensioner). Once again, thank you for your video!
The tensioner´s tab SHOULD be placed inside the Welch Plug (Also called "Core plug")...
This is going to be my next project, 2004 VW BEETLE DIESEL and you SIR...you are the MAN!!! Love your attitude!!!
Schrondingers Box thank you very much for a such a detailed video. I didn't know how important that tensioner setting was until I watched your video. I was about to drive my car and I noticed that the tensioner isn't in the right settings after installing a new timing belt... you saved my car and lots of cash for me.. I will throw a few dollars for you in the donation box! Thank you
I got a minute in on another video detailing this process, but the guy was evidently a complete hack... Glad I found your clip, thanks!
+i pet a kitty Yeah I seldom post videos like this unless I am sure that most other videos out there are incorrect or incomplete.
How it is possible that proper tension adjustment isn't covered in other videos is almost criminal IMO.
Thanks for the torque specs!!!
Same engine as Seat Ibiza 2015 2.0L
The serpentine belt pulley that bolts on the crankshaft socket has a notch the lines up with a notch on the inner timing belt backing plate. This is your #1 piston at TDC.
I'll be doing this repair next week under basic maintenance. Last time it was changed was 80k, and we are at about 157k currently. Car still runs like a top! Oddly enough we where at a pick and pull yard today, and I decided to inspect the timing belt on the Beetle it had in the yard.
If that belt wasn't already gone? It was darn close! Back of the belt checkered with tiny splits, some pretty deep. Looks like no one paid attention to it. Probably wouldn't have lasted to long. Looked more like dry rot was starting to set in.
Thanks for the detailed information on this.
I was wondering why the belt was so loose !!!! I guess this video saved it from disaster !!! Thanks so much !!!!!
VW's 1.9 Diesel is slightly easier to do as it does have the timing mark on the crank pully. Also the tensioner has a hole for an allen key to rotate it instead of the need for a special tool. Really goods videos, and love your explanations. Thank you
I was wondering about the diesel, I have one and I'm planning on doing it soon. Thanks for info
Thanks bud for posting this. I have a 99.5 GLS and a friend has a 01 gl that both need belts soon. couldn't find shit for info on how to do it motor in the car the right way!!! probably watched 15+ videos. time to embark into what was once the unknown.
Great video awesome channel am a mechanic in the uk been so 20 years and have learned some great information from this channel . Always learning.
lee kilarski Thanks man. MANY viewers from the UK and in fact they are almost always very dedicated to the channel. Very much appreciated!
Hey Matt. A great video. Watching you work it out as you go along with the scanner was reassuring. It was reality at work. I agree that you still need the knowledge just in case you cannot depend on your equipment. I am looking forward to part 3 with more of the same. You explain things so well and with commitment.
I have an ABA 2.0 Volkswagen engine 2001 and it has no time in tensioner like that that goes into the block and then you pull the gun sights together mine you have to use a tool in order to tighten the belt and tighten the 17 mm nut and a 13 mm to hold it something like a freeze out plug that's a neat system and you're right there's not very many tension UA-cam videos on here thank you
Thank you for this video. I spent a day looking for info on the tension setting.
Fantastic. I am r/r my WP, Tensioner and elt today and this popped. I am very glad you posted this.
I was changing out my daughter's 2004 vw beetle, and you were 100% correct. If I didn't watch this video I would have fucked it up because nobody talks about tension, so all haters can choke on it. I am a subscriber love your style. thanks again.
Glad you found my video!! I don't put stuff out there unless it is verified accurate.
Thank very much for showing my how to set the tension. VW dealer wanted $2048 to fix the po343.
Lost how you aligned camshaft so relieved i saw this good video and agree with your youtube analysis of timing belt videos of present and yore.
Actually a great video. I did run into exactly that issue when i changed a timing belt on a passat last winter, it was my first time doing a timing belt and i had no idea how to set the tension. Just about every video i watched did skip this part..
(oddly enough in all my search i didn't find this video, would have helped me a lot!)
Based on a vague forum post regarding a totally different vw engine that said something about aligning arrows i figured out how to set the tensioner by myself, i just turned every moving part in every direction it could go until i figured out how this thing works.. Tension was set perfectly.. sadly didn't help the engine, it was retired due to high oil consumtion soon after.
no I was very pleased to see this im a mechanic and this was a proper install which is near impossible to find on here thank u
I work as a tech in a dealership and man you are professional! would totally get my car fixed by you if I didnt fix it myself :)
The mark on the flywheel can be very useful. You can check your timing without having to take off the crankshaft pulley (in a pinch)! Great explanation on the tensioner!
Do you know anyone in Los Angeles CA that you refer for this specific job?
Excellent video. I was slightly disappointed not to see the engine running after the noise video, and this certainly satisfied my need for the quick gratification of seeing someone else fix an engine!
FFcossag Yeah, Coss- a lot of people mentioned that! There is now also a "bonus" video to the engine noise video which covers more material that people said I left inconclusive from the first one
Lol i know this is an old video but it popped up when i did a search. Anyway, i have the aptitude to do a timing belt replacement BUT I watch the videos for tips and tricks. I save a lot on my own time watching someone take off all the stuff needed and whatever helpful stuff they mention about the job along the way. So don't diss the simple stuff you should know if your doing this job
Excellent video! I like to watch videos before I do the job to gather as much info as possible and you helped me on loading the tensioner for the timing belt like a champ. I appreciate it and so does my girls vw beetle. Thanks!
The paint marks make it easier for you and for the next owner! Great job man. Never set timing before but I just replaced my valve springs due to a burnt few. But I have confidence I can do it.
Got around to it this morning, played with the pulley till I got the slack out. You helped and didn’t even know it.
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I think you have the best overall everything that makes a great tutorial: knowledge of project requirements, lighting, videography well done, simple explanation. Thank you much for this wanderfull video.
Wow, thanks!
Very well made video !! Good call on the 90 degree pliers as well.... saved me $25 on the pin spanner tool made for the job.
+2l8and1 Those are handy for tons of other things as well!!
Well done, I love your style of teaching and your frankness about the shortcomings of other instruction video's...I didn't find the link to donate though
Hey man thank you very much for this. I recently bought a 01 golf with a 2.0 and the tensioner is squeaking so i think its time to replace all of it. Only 117k miles., and this video makes it a whole lot easier 👍
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non-turbo wagon
Hi Guys, I recently did my first timing belt job. I thought it went well as I started the car and the engine seemed to run fine. A couple of days later I noticed some issues with the engine and decided to get back under the timing belt cover and check things out. Timing belt itself looks fine. Crankshaft and camshaft markings all line up like they should when camshafts markings are straight up. The problem is in getting the crankshaft sprocket marking straight up. The engine is EXTREMELY resistant to being cranked over. This was not a big deal the first time around. In finishing the timing belt install I hand cranked the engine several times by hand to check the timing between the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and everything looked good. I didn't have any difficulty doing this.
I bench 250lbs x 5 and deadlift 225lbs for a workout and I am now having MUCH more difficulty getting the crankshaft sprocket straight up. The engine wants to spring back against my clockwise cranking of the engine.
Why I Went Under the Timing Belt Cover Again
As I have been using the car in the past few days I noticed that the engine sounds like it knocks when I start it up, but it starts easily. It also makes an extra clicking sort of sound when it idles. Sometimes as it idles, around 500rpm, the revs drops a bit and the i hear/feel a knocking going on. Could that be my ECM still relearning? For the most part the car is running smoother than normal when the ECM is relearning it's fuel mixture.
I notice more vibration out of the engine than normal. I have seen that before, I believe it is usually tied to a misfire in at least one of my cylinders. I have a known internal oil leak. Lately that engine vibration hasn't been present. It popped up again just after the timing belt job. Other than that the car moves as fine as it did before the timing belt job and has been driving fine.
I'm not entirely sure if the knocking issues are related to my timing belt work. My main concern right now is my inability to crank the engine over by hand.
Please help, I had to call off of work on account of this. I can't make any money while my car is apart or in questionable condition. I am in an emergency situation. Thanks in Advance, -AJFresh
In order to help with this it will be necessary to know how much you bench press.
lol i haven't tried a one rep max. most i've done lately is 250lbs.
The point of mentioning the 250 is to make clear that I'm no weakling and yet I can't get the crankshaft to sit still. It continues to want to spring back out of position. Is cranking the engine in reverse out of the question?
AJFresh As I sat here attempting research, somehow out of nowhere a question popped into my mind. "Did you put the car in gear?" ?!?! Ran outside to check - yes I did. Relieved the tension on the breaker bar I locked under the AC compressor then took the car out of gear. Engine turns over like butter LOL
Now I can turn to the issue that brought me back to the timing belt in the first place
-Why do I have increased engine vibration?
-Why is there some kind of knock/sound/brief vibration on startup?
-Why does idling periodically get rough?
All that comes to mind is that my cylinder heads are out of sync. Maybe I should remove the timing belt, rotate either camshaft around once from having it's timing mark straight up where it is now, and reinstall the belt. Any constructive input would be appreciated
AJFresh Its obvious the install is incorrect- redo it and try turning the crankshaft without the timing belt attached. If it doesnt turn over easily by hand then you have a major problem. actually it possible you have one anyway- you need to get back in there- actually someone with more experience who knows what to look for should do it to be honest.
Update: Removed timing belt, cranked driver's side cam sprocket once around and reinstalled. Engine starts up smooth and doesn't drop revs :)
Just a followup to my yesterday's comment. I removed the tensioner today and immediately saw what I had done wrong when I installed it 2 - 3 years ago. I failed to place the tensioner locking tab at the edge in the engine block. Will be paying careful attention to this detail when I install the new tensioner.
Easy mistake to make. I use a mirror to check the tab is correctly positioned because I’m never sure since you have to do it by feel otherwise!!
Subscribing. Finally.....I searched for a long time before you had made this video. Just happy someone with knowledge finally made a BA video!!!!
this may be five years old now but its still the most accurate example I could find much obliged Schrodinger's Box
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Excellent video and attention to detail. I would use the other videos to show how to access the timing belt and your video to put it all back together correctly. I had a timing belt installed by a mechanic but luckily I needed a water pump and the VW tech saw that the timing belt tensioner was put on backwards.
Thanks for another video.
I'm gonna admit some past stupidity on my part........
The first timing belt I changed on an interference engine, I made sure crank was at tdc....but it was on exhaust stroke. I didn't realize until I had the belt and tensioner and water pump off. I debated putting it back together with the cam in its position 180 out, which maybe would have been the best thing to do, then recheck after rotating it to make sure I wasn't a tooth off the alignment marks. However, what I ended up doing was turning (very carefully and slowly by hand) the cam 1/8 turn, then turning crank 1/4 turn, repeat until last cam and crank markers were in correct position at tdc on compression stroke, then proceeded with belt install. I never felt a valve binding, so I guess it may needed more than 1/8 of the cam turn to cause interference - it was a 4 cylinder.....I guess it could be more risky with higher number of cylinders.
After getting everything back together, compression test showed excellent compression.
Probably very risky, but those mistakes are the kind I'll never make twice.
Louis Pasnik Yes it is exactly the mistake most everyone else made. But many were worse. My favorite was the guy who could not get the marks to line up no matter what he did so he decided to run the engine and see if they would "line themselves up".
Jesus.
Great video! I'll be changing the water pump and timing belt tomorrow on my wife's 99 New Beetle 2.0 and will definitely use your video as reference. Thank you and keep the good videos coming.
Good vid
Pattern failure may be overstating the situation but cam sensor failures are fairly common. It can be replaced without complete belt removal but not a bad idea while apart.
+Frank Totino Why on earth would anyone ever replace a cam sensor on a cam sensor code just because it is fairly common (which it absolutely is not). I don't understand. What data do you use to determine sensor failure as opposed to guessing?
Your comment leaves much to be desired. As a professional tech for the past 26yrs and having operated my own shop for the past 14, it's in our client's best interest to add these kind of repairs onto jobs...as far as it not being a common failure all I can say is you're a rank amature with little real world experience.
There are comments on this video made by a gentleman out of the UK who you may want to ask...my bet is that he'll agree and probably does exactly the same for his clients.
Testing the sensor is quite easy but you'll probably say you know how...other than the sensor failing the second most common would be debris blocking the sensor and window... Hopefully you know what I'm talking about...going to guess not.
You should try to be more respectful because you never know with whom you're talking.
Frank Totino A lot of talk and no substance there. No substance at all. I can see you're just yet Another "professional" who just guesses instead of knowing how to gather evidence,
+Schrodingers Box This will obviously go nowhere and that's fine. What you're not getting is that the cam sensor gets replaced even if it's good and not setting a code.
Good luck on 'fixing' cars.
Frank Totino Ok so you are saying to replace parts that are not broken. Got it.
Dumb advice.
I always diagnose and replace what's broken but if replacing whats not broken is what pro's do then I hope I never become a pro.
Hey don't forget to replace all the other stuff thats not broken, mr 'Pro'. CKPS, IAT, MAF, TPS and the hundreds of other components.
good vid, couple of points tho is after installing and tensioning the belt you should turn the engine over from the crank by hand(socket/ratchet not starter motor)two full revolutions recheck your timing marks and than loosen the lock nut on the tensioner and reset the tension as you showed. this does two things 1 makes sure you wont bend a valve ie did it right, 2. moves all the belt slack to the tensioner side the way the engine does so that when you reset the tension your doing so with the correct amount of slack on the tensioner side. you have to loosen the lock nut on the tensioner or it wont move when you reset tension. for whats its worth ex ASE master tech and i always did this every t belt i did tho very important on an interference engine. normally because of service interval your changing the spark plugs so leaving them out makes turning the engine /t belt replacement much easier.
thanks for your detailed explanation . :-))
I just did this job same car yesterday and it went well. The water pump was difficult to remove because one Neanderthal rolled the o-ring out of place putting it in last time and another Neanderthal ran it on straight hose water.
I've been a VW/Audi specialist for almost ten years now. Interestingly enough, all the ABA engines I've worked on that have lost a belt have all been OK. After replacing the timing belt and related components they've all ran perfectly. the AEG, AZG, etc will damage valves more often than not if the belt fails.
I wish more people would see your comment- there have been so many people telling me this is not an interference engine. It certainly is and in fact at one pount when turning the crank I experienced the interference myself and had to turn the cam to get clearance.
My experience in general is interference engines with broken belts meet their fate more than half the time. This owner was very lucky.
Schrodingers Box I've seen my share of the newer 2.0 8V engines that had lost the timing belt, and had bent valves. $1400 to $1600 dollars later your back on the road, and that's IF the cylinder head can be salvaged. It pays to replace the timing belt and related components at the specified interval, or you can pay out the nose when it fails. And if you get REALLY lucky and don't have bent valves, you better go out and buy some lotto tickets ASAP because you'll probably end up a millionaire.
Chester Wardan Just out of curiousity would you agree with me:
Out of the maybe 10 cars I have seen with timing belts failures only maybe 2 of them actually had strictly belt failure- the other 80% were all timing component failure (sometimes causing the belt to fail)-frozen water pump, broken tensioner, frozen or broken pulleys, etc.
I.E. changing the components is possibly MORE important than changing the belt itself.
Schrodingers Box
As a "Professional" I would tell you changing everything at the same time, at the specified interval, is the best way to go. Obviously were not talking about making repairs due to a belt/component failure here. Strictly as a regular maintenance routine. I've given your initial question some thought, and to be completely honest I can't agree, nor disagree because you can't accurately anticipate any one particular component failure. Maybe I'm missing something here, but it would be unreasonable to replace everything BUT the belt at say 40K or 50K because you think one of those components may fail. Could you do it on your own car just because you wanted to? absolutely. It becomes a "while I'm in there" type of situation at that point. You've already got the belt off, from a monetary standpoint it just makes sense to spend the additional X number of dollars and replace the belt. I've seen a fair number of failed timing components and probably 80% of the time it's been the belt. That's just my experience up to this point.
A gentleman & a scholar! Thanks for the details!
excellent video! I'm getting ready to change a camshaft position sensor and timing belt on my 99 Jetta 2.0 AEG..wish me luck!
nice video. very accurate. i dont think i can do it myself but i will be sure now to know if my mechanic is doing it correctly. thumbs up man
+Mario Millan pretty sure anyone with basic comprehension can do this themselves. There is no skill needed in spinning a wrench to remove and replace bolts.
+Schrodingers Box yeah. lets say i rather stay with my xbox than taking a wrench? LOL. nice video dude
Mario Millan Lol Dude i totally respect that!! No argument about that!! Glad you enjoyed the video!
He’s right about some required repairs not being covered.
Try finding a “new beetle rusty rocker panel replacement” video.
I found your video helpful, replaced timing belt water pump tensioner. One other thing most popular video don't say is the camshaft seal needs to be replaced and seen the difficulty I'm not going to do that; but if next time you wanna do a video for it would be helpful. Ciao
Gracias. I have some issues with the tensioner, but now I am ready to do that job in my Jetta.
you are the best man , thank you very much for all the video you post i watch mostly all of them
Come on ! This is your calling. You do this perfectly with you very true scientific method. Why not talking alittle bit more about that method in one of your videos?. BTW You well deserve that dollar. Lol another great video.
The "Stupid" mark on the flywheel is 3 to 4 times more accurate than your paint mark on the pulley. It is much farther from the rotational center. A small bump, lets say a quarter of a tooth on the crank would show an obvious full tooth on the flywheel. That's why its on the flywheel. All the european cars have it on the flywheel for accuracy. I agree a mark and pointer on the belt side would be helpful. Thanks for your video, Ill be doing this in a bit.
+0xxRainbowsOnFirexx0 Because when you put the belt on, it is obvious that the timing is finally set by the teeth spacing, the timing therefore either is or is not at TDC on final install. Therefore it is obvious that the stupid mark cannot be "more accurate"- much less 3-4 times.
When you do this install you will understand.
+Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix I used the Bentley manual for install - the procedures written there recommend using the mark on the flywheel for crankshaft timing.....
The mark on the flywheel is very accurate and that is the mark that should be used. You should also use timing mark on the crank but the flywheel side is very important
Is there a window there for automatic transmissions as well? Doing this soon.
Techi Brant yes there is a window on the automatic transmission just did one it’s not in the same exact spot but a little below were the manual one is located. They are easier to see than the manual transmission due to the location and they look like humps. Good luck with yours
Awesome job...TY for taking time to show us the correct way!
Thanks for sharing 👍it did fix a problem that I have after a run up. I can sleep in Pease now. God bless
awesome! video! agree nobody else did the tensioner description you did! love it
thanks for the info on the belt's tension, good video, just did a '98 beetle last night, really helpfull!
Great vid! One quick point: timing marks don't necessarily need to coincide with TDC. I did a Volvo XC90 T6, and those marks were a smidge after TDC. Same style tensioner... but more finicky. VW' s are just notorious with their timing marks.
Oh dear god what an awesome, and thorough video. I'm officially a fan. I'm doing this tomorrow, and man, you are funny! I agree that the flywheel mark is stupid hahahaha. +1 on the tensioner I would have done it wrong for sure. Also good tip on painting your own marks on the crank
What a precise work thanks for the class
Whenever I do a job I search for info from multiple sources, never trusting one source alone. I get a little nervous when people ask questions that show they haven't done the effort, blindly trusting all they were told. This one certainly adds to the knowledge base. The other angle that may be a surprise is when professionals say they use a different method than that recommended in the dealers manual. Most of the time I give the dealers manual the last word, under the assumption they are anticipating other problems that might occur. For example the 5X movement of the tensioner may be to put the blame squarely on the technician in case of immediate replacement failure. A faulty part should be easily detected if the tech does the procedure right.
spelunkerd Agree 100% Dave, on all counts. One exception- sometimes when there are discrepancies with what a professional suggests vs the manual, I will research and TSB's that show the professional is indeed using updates made after release of the manual.
BTW- you and Terry will LOVE my next video.... I can't wait to release it!!!!
you're great BOX this video it's for people who wants to learn,,,, not for the ones that think they know already how to do it hahaha your good I really like how you explain 👍
Couldn't have said it better myself!!!
Did one some years back... "An annoying chirping noise" they said.
The bearing had failed in the original tensioner had failed so the edge of the pulley was eating into the belt.
The belt was barely a quarter inch wide.
Simon Parkinson I have seen this on other cars too! On a ford escort there were literally just a few strands on the belt!! The inside of the timing cover looked like a birds nest lol!!!
I have one of these in my future. Thank you for the info.
Like you said, it is so much easier to route the new belt starting with the relaxed tensioner. Just no way the new belt was going over those tensioner ridges, had to go with camshaft first, then tensioner, followed by crankshaft pulley, then the waterpump last. Took 1 minute. (Does help to leave the belt half-sticking/hanging off shafts, so it is a smidge easier to rotate it when pulling onto waterpump)
I paid £400+ for that job cheers for the vid I will do it myself next time.
very good video and I agree with your views about other UA-cam videos. Much appreciated, I will do mine now..
in the SUZUKI CARRY f10a engine there is a timing mark on the flywheel and that old engine came with timing belt .
great video btw.
yes it is right ! nobody exlpains properly how to set the tensionner. I PERSONNALY LIKE YOUR VIDEOS- AT LEAST YOU CARE FOR DIYERS (WHO ARE NOT PROFESSIONAL BY THE WAY) .KEEP DOING YOUR VIDS :-)
This was amazing! It was super detailed and informative, and makes me feel a lot more confident about embarking on this endeavour next week. If I don't fuck it up, I will gladly give you a dollar of the four hundred I saved.