How to Install a NEW Ceiling Fan IN A ROOM WITH NO CEILING FIXTURE | New Box, Fan, Wall Switch, Wire
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- In this video, I install a new ceiling fan in a room with no existing ceiling fixture. I cut a new hole in the ceiling, install a new ceiling fan box, install a new wall switch, and run new wire; with access from the attic. This is a complete guide, from start to finish, with all of the details!I Lets go!
RACO Ceiling Fan Brace and Box Kit:
amzn.to/45ubReR
www.lowes.com/...
EATON Combination Switch:
www.lowes.com/...
Romex 14/3 Wire with Ground:
www.lowes.com/...
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#raco #ceilingfan #fanbox #DIY
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How-to and Reviews
This has got to be one of the best video’s ever made on You Tube….It’s amazing you even added the wiring diagram…thanks for taking the time to make it! Great job
Thanks for the feedback! Glad it helped!
you are not an electrician but your work is more neat and better than some electricians I know, good job man.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
You just want him to do an install for you.
Lol.
He does good work though
I'm joking
@@marc6919 lol wouldn't be a bad idea, I do my own side jobs so he would be of a great help :)
This is one of the best how to videos I have seen. Super clean and easy to follow! Thank you so much
Thanks, I appreciate it! Glad it helped!
Wow dude this is terrific. Easy to follow. Way to go. I appreciate your efforts
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Great video. Informative, easy to follow, no fluff. Thinking of adding a fan to our home office, will definitely come back to this as a reference.
Best no nonsense install ever. Thanks!
Glad it helped! I appreciate it!
Definitely appreciate your down to earth demeanor and straightforward process. Great job making this videao and sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
You are blessed to have such great skill & professionalism. Outstanding video.
Glad it was helpful!
Some instruction on the switch wiring would be helpful
Nicely done
Great video with a lot of excellent advise. When I installed the ceiling fan in my home I installed wireless receivers with transmitters to turn the fan and lights off separately. The receiver controlling the light includes dimming which I found necessary because of the brightness of the new led light bulbs.
I have seen those. They are pretty nice!
Where did you get them from?
Hi. Commendable Job, detail/comments very plentiful, intuitive and informative. I have done this type of install for needed ceiling fans and lights adding these where there was none, both fans with lights and lights to dark rooms, hall closets etc. Being and growing up having show and tell and later buying how to books, this video was a welcome treat with generous comments, thanks a bunch, it's a keeper. Think my 6" crown Molding might be of use also to hide some of the cosmetic install damage.
Be nice like in some homes newly built the planning took in thoughtfulness of pre-wiring in ceiling boxes for future fans etc. What a good idea even if one has to pay extra for each, as long as it is not ridiculous! Thanks again for your efforts
Amazing!! Perfect illustration!!! Thanks a bunch , for this ever so helpful video 😃👍🏼!!
I Picked the right video to watch! So simply laid out and explained . Thanks
Awesome, glad to hear that! I appreciate it! Thanks!
Thanks! We just bought a house with no light fixture or ceiling fan in the master bedroom... I'll be following your tips
Simple , direct, accurate information, great video ✅ thanks 👍
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I am looking to do this at my place and I am wondering if after you take the outlet off of the switch will the outlet still work or will you have to mess with the wires at the outlet in order to still get power there?
You made it look so easy lol. Very good video and informative. Thank you sir.
Follow the video exactly and it will only take 12 minutes, just like in the video! Just kidding.
It can definitely be done in a day. Having all of the required tools and supplies ready ready to go will save a lot of time and set you up for the fastest and smoothest install.
I would estimate that that it took me about 4 hours (it took a little longer, but filming projects adds a lot more time).
Glad you found it helpful!
When it came to the electrical, the information was no doubt thorough...this is something I have to physically do..in order for it to sink in.
You did and amazing job and I can tell as a Certified electrician
Thanks, I appreciate it! Thanks for watching
What did you do with the wires that were originally being run to the outlet?
I want to know this as well!
You can splice the wires coming from the breaker (line) and your wire to the outlet (load) together. So you bypass the switch. Then use a third pigtail to power your switch and then your new wire to the fan and light.
This dude should have 500,000 subscribers!
Thanks, I appreciate it! Just glad to be helping people out. I’ll keep hammering away at it and we’ll see what the future holds.
Excellent video and explanation. Loved the flex at the end!😊
💪
Great video! I have a similar situation but I am trying to figure out what to do about the wall outlet.
This is best video, I have seen so far for my bedroom to install ceiling fan. Thanks for your video
I appreciate it, glad you found it helpful!
Hello - thank you for the informative video. In your diagram it looks like the hot from your box or existing wiring is going to both black screws. Does this mean either/or? Or splice for both? Thanks.
It’s going to both.
This is a double switch. Both switches need the hot wired to them.
A double switch should have a jumper between them by default. In that case you only need to connect to one of them, either one.
Otherwise, if they are not factory jumperd, wire it to either one, then jumper it from that one to the other one.
Thanks for the video! Nice old army boots you had for going into the attic ;)
Happy it helped!
I served active duty army in the early 2000s. I still have several pairs of boots and still use them regularly!
Very nice and informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video man, thank you
Excellent video, Intersting fan choice.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your video is the most useful one that I've viewed. 👍👍👍
I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching!
This is a really good video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
GREAT video. Exactly what I needed to see.
Great! Glad it helped!
Great video, one question I wanna ask is if the outlet that was connected to the switch still works
Yes, now it has power all the time like a normal outlet.
Did you install a ground wire from the attic? Or did you use the ground wire from the ceiling fan mount to ground your ceiling fan?
There’s a ground wire with the conductor wires.
I have the same situation in my room, but I have an outlet below that I plug in a lamp controlled by the light switch. How do I switch that so that I can use the light switch to control the new fan? Then use the outlet to plug anything else besides a lamp?
That’s exactly what I did. Now the switch controls the ceiling fan, and the outlet always has power like a normal outlet.
Nice job! Great job on the video and installation.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Recently installed new fan without existing wire.
Light switch had no power line coming in, so I had a light in attic on 15 amp circuit that I decided to pull from.
Used 14/2 Romeo 3 wire.
Connected black to black (power), white to white(negative), and grounds together then back onto the attic light pull switch.
Light turned back on after connections, and I ran my power line to light switch where I needed power.
Ran a Romex 14/2 from fan to light outlet, then connected new power line to fan line - black to black, white to white, and ground to ground.
Only wanted one switch so used wingtips at end of the connections, and made one line for each- black, white, ground which I connected to a new switch for use for powering on fan in that light switch.
I turned back on breakers, and fan was on.
However if I flick the switch it’s wired to it trips the breaker.
Is it the wiring of the new switch, attic light circuit overloading?
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
I will take a look, just so you have an idea of what may be wrong, but the answer is to hire an electrician.
There is a wiring issue. When you turn on the fan switch, it overloads. You have a hot grounded.
I tried, but couldn’t quite follow how you wired it. There were too many conflicting terms used, and I wasn’t sure what locations were being described.
(Fan line, light switch, light outlet, attic light, attic light pull switch)
I will outline the required wiring below for your own visualization and conception so you may understand where the problem lies, but my only advice/recommendation is for you to hire hire an electrician. You are unsure and guessing with electrical wiring is deadly. Hire an electrician.
There are only 3 devices and 2 wire runs involved.
Devices:
1. Existing power source (sounds like a pull chain light in the attic)
2. New fan switch
3. New fan
Wire runs:
1. (first) 14/2 from existing power source to new fan switch.
2. (second) 14/2 from new fan switch to new fan
Procedure:
Connect (first) 14/2 to existing power source. Black (hot) to black, white (neutral) to white, and ground (bare copper) to ground.
Run the (first) 14/2 wire to the new fan switch box.
Connect white to the switch. Leave black and ground loose (not connected).
Connect new (second) 14/2 into the new fan switch box.
Connect white to the switch. Connect black wire to the loose black wire. Connect ground to the loose ground, then connect the spliced grounds to the switch.
Run the (second) 14/2 from the new fan switch box into the fan box.
From there, follow the wiring directions that came with the fan. But, it will be hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground.
I hope that helps for understanding purposes. Hire an electrician.
Very good video man... Is that a universal ceiling fan box? How do you know how each ceiling fan mount will fit each box?...
Yes, it is a Universal ceiling box. The mounting is an industry standard, and any ceiling fan will fit.
So good, thank you!! I’m procrastinating because I’m mom, and I don’t want to go into the icky attic space. 🤢 how do I know the width of my drywall?
Lol. You can handle it!
Drywall is typically 1/2” thick. You need to drill the hole regardless, so you can drill the 4” diameter hole and measure the thickness of it.
WELL DONE mate keep it up
I’m in the same situation as you. How would you deal with the outlet to always have power on? My outlet has the 2 whites and ground going to it as well as 1 red. The two blacks hots wires are twisted together. Would I just remove the red and attach the blacks to the outlet?
Hmmm… there is definitely a way to accomplish it. I would suspect that you are correct and the red went to the switch box and now does nothing, and the black just needs to be connected where the red currently is. I would definitely use a multimeter to verify and sort it out.
If that is not working out, another thing to consider is leaving the outlet as is and splicing the existing outlet power wire (red?) In the switch (but is now disconnected and does nothing) splice it into constant power in the switch box. This will be like the switch is always on and the outlet will always have power.
As an electrical guy, your description leaves me with several questions.
I would expect your recepticle to be split (a little tab is broken off to on the hot side to allow the recepticles to function as 2 seperate pieces).
So the blacks should be constant hot, one in, one to the next double recepticle.
The whites should be neutrals, one in, and one to the next recepticle.
Grounds.....same....this recepticle and the next.
The red, I expect to switch the top or bottom recepticle on or off depending on where connected.
Your description sounds like someone replaced a recepticle and made both recepticle switch.
Becareful and maybe check with someone local. There may be some thing unexpected there.
what can i do if i don't have access to attic? I have existing hole from pot light but no joists near by...i am also looking to install ceiling fan.
There is also this style of ceiling box for when there isn’t attic access. It is installed through the hole in the ceiling.
amzn.to/3WZNjJv
Thanks very helpful I subscribed u r channel
Glad it was helpful! I hope you find some of the other videos helpful or entertaining!
Very good instructional & informative video. I have a question.
What size Romex cable did you run from switch to ceiling fan. I have a bedroom much like yours. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I used 14/3 (plus ground).
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial
Thanks for sharing..!
The Raco gang steel electrical box does not look like it is strong enough to support the ceiling fan, no? how many lbs can this box support? thanks
The ceiling box in the video supports 70 pounds.
Awesome video. Thx!
Good job, very good videoing too. 👏👏👏
Thank you very much!
I would like to know what type of cable to get that done ???
Typically 14 gauge in a home.
I want to do this in my basement, so i wont have the attic to walk around. Wondering how i would mount a brace and feed the cable through. Any thoughts?
There is a ceiling box for this purpose; to install in a finished ceiling with no attic access from above.
amzn.to/3Q7v01w
For running the wire, you will need to cut access holes through the drywall at intervals to be able to route it, then patch the holes.
Also, you can use a ceiling fan that has a remote control to turn it on and off. Then you only need to run power to it. You don’t have to wire a switch in the wall.
What happened to the outlet that the switch used to power? This is a great video on how to install but I still have the old outlet box on the other wall the switch controls.
I wired the outlet so it always has power and no longer switched.
In my specific case, the top outlet was switched and the bottom outlet always had power (the connecting tab between them was removed to make them independent). I just installed a new outlet leaving the connecting tab in place.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial So the switch no longer went to the outlet? Did it have power to turn on the fan or light?
@@davidcarroll4939 That’s correct, the switch no longer went to the outlet.
Constant power came into the switch box, connected to the switch, and the switch used to send power to the outlet.
I ran a new set of wires to the ceiling fan, so now the power still comes into the switch box, connected to the new double switch, which sends power to the fan and fan light.
The wires that used to bring switched power from the switch to the outlet are not connected and do nothing (they are still in the wall from the switch box to the outlet box, but are not connected to the switch or the out).
New to your channel… keep up the good work
Thanks, I appreciate it. I have the next 5 videos planned and started. And a long list of additional future videos. I’ll keep them coming.
What Gauge wiring you are using
@@miguelcolon8929 14 gauge
Excellent video! Are you able to control the fan speed with this switch? If not, do we need a different switch type and how can we wire it?
The fan speed is not controlled from the switch. There is a chain on the fan that you have to pull to change the speed between low medium and high.
know there are fans available that come with a remote control so you can change the speed from the remote instead of pulling the chains.
A possible thought that I have is to use a dimmer switch, and always leave the chain on the high position. Then you can change the speed from low to high with the dimmer switch. I do not know if it is a valid solution, but may be something to look into.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial it is possible to install a dimmer switch to control the fan. Additionally, you can use the pull chain to set the fan to high to control the speed with the dimmer and the chain can be removed from the fan for a cleaner look.
@@GarrettRAllen Perfect, thanks!
Awesome video my man! Great tutorial 👌
Glad you found it helpful!
Outstanding video. Thanks!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Glad you found it helpful!
The switch cover screws are not at the 12 and 6 position! Drives me MAD!
Otherwise, great job! 😉
I definitely fixed that.
So you abandoned the old switched receptacle?
That is correct. But I could have kept it and add another switch for the fan.
I personally didn’t want that switch anymore. It switched power to a wall outlet for a lamp. No need for that functionality. I rewired the outlet so it is not switched and always has power.
Would you happen to know how to do the same install in a 2-story condo? 2d story is different tenant.
If you are on the first story and don’t have access from above…
This box is specifically made to install through a blind hole with no access from above.
However, you will still like need to cut access holes to run the wire, then repair the holes afterwards.
amzn.to/3yRpIhl
Do you lose the functionality of the wall outlet?
You can’t choose how to wire it. You can keep it the functionality the same or change it. I disconnected the switch from the outlet, and wired it so the outlet always has power.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial okay that was my question, I wanted the outlet to change to always hot
usr a remodel electrical box for your switches
Absolutely! Thanks!
great job
After less than a minute in, you tell us u have attic access to the ceiling I knew what u were gonna do and no need to watch. You most likely helped others.
Sorry I couldn’t help you out with this one. Good luck!
the line out to something else in the wall switch did you just leave it or did you connect it somehow?
I connected it. It was spliced directly to the line in power, before the switch, so it always has power.
So, in the switch box:
3 neutral/white wires in the wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to the fan, (3) line out to something else.
3 hot wires in a wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to something else, (3) a short jumper to the switch.
(Or, you could connect both the line in and the line out to the switch if the switch has previsions to accept 2 wires at the input)
4 ground wires crimped or in a wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to the fan, (3) line out to something else, (4) short jumper to the switch.
I hope that makes sense.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial oh I see, I just got a bit lost in that part in the video but it makes sense now, thanks for the reply man and great videos!
@@robertokuri7108 I probably should have added one more diagram with the extra line out spliced in to clear it up.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
GOOD JOB!
Ps Cut the coat hanger on a 45° angle at both ends make it as long as it can be straight! popping it in your drill and you can find spots floors and IF you don’t drill it in the right spot it’s small enough in most cases to rub your finger over it and nobody will ever see it if
a handful in your toolbox or handy as hell
* The black wire that formally went to your switched outlet could’ve been connected to your hot wire at the switch so that you didn’t have to open the box up and put a jumper on that outlet?
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
Electrician approved 👍
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Great video! Thank you
Thanks, I appreciate it. Glad you found it helpful!
The green screw that comes with the ceiling brace and box kit, did you use it? Is it necessary?
Metal boxes should be connected to the ground circuit. To be safe, jumper from the wire nut with the other ground wires in the box to the green screw inside of the box.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial that makes sense, thanks.
how would you wire it if you wanted to use a 3 way switch top to control fan and bottom to switched outlet?
Not the right application for a 3 way switch. 3 way switches allow you to control a device from two different locations. There would be two 3 way switches connected to the device, with both switches in different locations, so you could control the device from two different sides of the room for example.
Did you connect the spliced grounds using a wire nut?
You can use a wire nut, that’s no problem.
You can also twist them or crimp them because the connection doesn’t need to be insulated.
Can you tell me what type of wire you used?
No problem.
Romex 14/3 with ground:
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Romex-SIMpull-25-ft-14-3-Non-Metallic-Wire-By-the-Roll/1000156173
Is the outlet still functional or did you disable it?
The outlet is still functional. It is now always hot.
I installed one but didnt go into the attic to seal the box. Now I have sulatiin falling I guess I have to go into the attic. 😵💫
That should take care of it!
What if you don’t have a ground wire if it is a 1960 house?
The only responsible and safe advice I can give is to consult a qualified electrician and install a grounded circuit box and run grounded wiring.
blessing🙌🙏 🙌
nice job man!!!!!!!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
My dream project is coming closer to reality , but I got a problem, no wall switch at all to use it for the fan☹! If I had one right now , I would turn off the rotating fan from the wall , because the chain form the fan switch broke on me a couple weeks ago!☻😱
You can fish a new wire down inside the wall. You can do it!
thanks
I was worried for your safety since you had PT pants on with no PT belt.
Lol. I was active duty a little over 20 years ago when they had just switched from sweats to these black pants and gray jacket. They didn’t have the belt then. I think the jacket was a little reflective, but probably not enough. The belt must have came later.
That box went from $9 to $24. They owe you big time.
Oh, wow!
I thought 3 wire plus ground was yellow!?
The color is associated with the wire gauge, not related to 2 wire vs 3 wire.
14 gauge is white
12 gauge is yellow
10 gauge is orange
I used 14 gauge
Why didn’t you just use an old work box ?
I agree. The store was sold out and I wanted to push forward. Old work is the way.
How would you wire a ceiling light with a fan? 🤔
Why not just use and old work box instead of all that unnecessary extra work? Otherwise great information.
Thanks. I appreciate it.
The old work box is only supported by the drywall, and I believe is rated for 50 lbs. I think my fan required 70 lbs, but not sure.
Either way, I definitely did not want to support my ceiling fan by the drywall. I would personally not install a ceiling fan at all without supporting it from the joists. Also, a ceiling fan results in a dynamic load (it is not just a static weight) which will cause failures in the future.
There is another product available for installing a box without access from above. I would recommend this over an old work box.
amzn.to/36lFToH
I would use an old work box for a light fixture that doesn’t weigh much, but definitely not a ceiling fan.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial not for the fan, for your light switch. The plastic tabs turn out to secure to the drywall. Instead of having to pull the nails out of a new construction box breaking the loops off and running screws through it. It just seems like a lot of unnecessary effort.
@@andrewkampmann7170 OK, got it! That makes more sense. Pretty much the same scenario. It was honestly pretty easy. I had to break out the old box regardless. Cutting the tabs and towing in a couple screws took less than a minute. The box was cheaper, and I just preferred to utilize the stud since it was there, as opposed to only clamping onto the drywall. But, great point! An old work switchbox is a great suggestion!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Although you did a very neat and thorough job and explained things very well, by code you can't use the receptacle box that you used for the following reasons: You used a "New Work" box. 1)These boxes are designed to be mounted using the nails provided with the attached brackets. By screwing directly into the side of the box, you're doing a modification that's not approved. 2) Those knockouts are meant to be removed, as you did, because in new work the romex is secured within 12 inches of the box. Obviously, you can't secure the romex behind the sheetrock in old work. An "Old Work" box is designed just for that: Old work in an existing wall. It has tabs to secure it to the wall, or some actually have screws through the sides, but they are designed to be that way. Old work boxes also have different tabs for the wire to come through. They are not meant to come out, but provide stress relief to the wire.
As I've said, the job you did was very well done, and I'm only bringing this to your attention not to criticize you but because seeing how you like doing things right, You'd want to be aware of this.
@@JohnBGood-kq3ul Thanks. Constructive feedback is always welcome and I definitely do want to be aware of this. Thanks for the taking the time to share this. I appreciate it!
ONE THING YOU MISSED:
Good video, however before installing the wall switch into the recepticle box.
1. Always test your switches to insure the fan and lights work.
2. Always wrap electrical tape around the switch to cover The Side Screws. This prevents future possible arching.
Other than that very Good Video.
See Example Here:
ua-cam.com/video/mY45ZDdiPn4/v-deo.html
Isn't tape around the screws only needed on a metal box?
If anyone is doing this you should drill from the bottom
I drilled from the bottom so:
1) insulation would not fall all over through the hole
2) so I would not drill through any electrical wire that may be laying up there
👍🏽
I just go with a remote
Sorry, but your installation of the plastic box is NOT CORRECT, and is against the NEC. The plastic tabs are not supposed to be "knocked out". They are meant to be a clamp. On non-metallic single gang boxes 2 1/2 x 4, the cable does not need to be clamped if it is secured within 8 inches of the outside of the box (NEC 314.17(C) Exception). However, as you were not able to put a staple in behind the closed wall - those tabs should be utilized as a clamp as they were intended.
Thanks!