How To Install Ceiling Light Without Existing Wiring
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Klein Voltage Tester: amzn.to/3yYjzh8
This video demonstrates Installing a new ceiling light in a bedroom where there was no junction box or wiring installed. I used the switch on the wall and rewired the outlets which originally were switched (top outlet controlled by a wall switch) to always powered outlets and the wall switch then controlling the ceiling light. Sections or "chapters" of this video are listed below with the corresponding time stamp so you can jump around to fit your project needs.
Note: This is just for entertainment purposes only and you will need to check the electrical code in your area and also ensure all circuits are off during any of the work. Your safety is in your own hands.
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Chapters
0:00 Introduction
1:12 Planning Out How To Route New Wires
4:11 Cutting Access Holes in Drywall
5:23 Fishing the New Wires Through Ceiling and Walls
8:05 Junction Box and Light Install
9:05 Rewiring Switched Outlets to New Ceiling Light
14:20 Testing New Light and Outlet Wiring
Tools Used
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My tip; when cutting out the wall sheetrock next to the ceiling you went ALL THE WAY to the ceiling. By doing this, you have to mud the corner INTO the ceiling too. To keep mud out of the ceiling and corner, and then having mud on the ceiling too, you know the top plate is 3 inches wide. Only cut the wall sheetrock 3/4 of an inch above the bottom of the top plate. That gives you the wood to mount the sheetrock and room for the wall mud only without having to mud a corner into the ceiling.
Totally agree, I learned my lesson from this one and thanks for the feedback 👍
Omg, finally someone makes a video about my exact situation. Everyone else makes videos going into the attic or basement.
Happy to help, I do recommend using an old work box that could take a fan load amzn.to/35n6ph9. Also Romex should not go through a plenum like I did in the video. Best of luck on your project!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks for the reply. Im not running a ceiling light. Im installing the ceiling Sonos sound system and needed to run power up the the ceilings.
YES. THANK YOU!!
Man ..... Exactly the same situation .. !!!!! . I do have an attic .. but at the corner I need the connection it will be never reachable on the attic . !!!!! ... Yeah . !!!!!
Same here! Thanks for this video!
Just wanted to say thank you 😊 huge help and great tips for me to self install a new ceiling light and connect it to the light switch in my dad’s office. I’m not tool illiterate or don’t have any handy man skills but I’m always super hesitant when it comes to working with anything electrical. I followed your advice and instructions and was able to complete it all by myself! Woot woot!! My dad is 75 and an amputee so we moved in with him and my mom two years ago to help out caring for him and their home. Any project that I or my husband can do ourselves is an huge help too since they’re both retired on a fixed income. I subscribed and plan on using more videos in the near future to help with fixing, updating and upgrading their home with making it easier and more accessible for my dad 💜🖤
Tip:
To avoid the nail/screw pops that you made when you first hit the hole saw into the ceiling, either drill with a paddle bit for a starter hole or use an oscillating saw to make your cut.
Hole saw bits save time for light boxes and cans too.
And checking if the wall cavities are insulated helps too. And what kind of insulation you are using. Expanding foam makes it more difficult fishing those cables
Nail pops indicate the drywall was falling/nails were pulling out. It is good that he discovered this since the drywall will be carrying the weight of the ceiling fixture. He can zip screws in along side the popped nails. A bit of extra drywall repair to do, but not really that much.
Been in the same house for 30 years and always wanted to do this. Its hard when living on a budget and not wanting to mortgage my home so i do most things on my own. This is going to help. Thanks.
If you have attic access this video might be even better. Total cost for materials was $200 and it made a MASSIVE difference ua-cam.com/video/KgChTKOaNsA/v-deo.html . Best of luck on the project
Everybody lives on a budget.
That laundry room drop ceiling made it so much easier to run the wiring. It would had sucked if he had to drill a hole through the top plate plus having the ceiling joist running the same way as your wiring installation. Dang i wish half of my jobs were that easy : ) Great video!
For the top plate, if he didn't have that hole he could have used an oscillating tool to cut a notch on the side of the plate, another slight recess for a nail plate, reinstall the piece of drywall which was carefully removed. Patch work is fast and easy after that.
As a remodeler, I always install ceiling boxes to hold the weight of a fan, because inevitably...someday someone will try to hang on from it. Good technique though.
Completely agree, that was a miss during my install. Thanks for the feedback.
That's brilliant. I'm always pleasantly surprised when a client asks me to hang a fan where a light was and I don't have to switch out the box.
! Excellent job!
As of 2020 code, it is required now.
@@bmwmike3534 crazies
I like how this man performs and explains. Easy to understand and learn. Thank you very much.
"or not" lol. I like that he's not perfect.
I was waiting for him to pull the yellow wire and then realize, OH shit... I needed that 😂
I was thinking the same thing 😂
I would have put a pull string behind it for improbable future use.
@@chuckwyble7719 I would snip both end off and leave the wire in there.
@@chuckwyble7719 that's what I Do. Even though I'm 99% sure I won't need it it'll be that one time I'm like damn wish I had that string to pull past these damn wires!
This is exactly the video and example I was looking for, thank you! Would enjoy seeing a follow-up on if you decide to alter the light switch or upgrade switch for additional functionality. Awesome video!
Thank you for doing this video. I'll watch it several times and have saved it to my favorites. Great Job!!!
Happy to help and best of luck on the project.
Very well thought out and executed. Thanks again for explaining a nice project!
Sir, I appreciate the way you do your videos, how you explain things simply and straightforward, without talking down to us or talking over MY head. Mostly, I appreciate how you inspire me to tackle projects that I previously feared. So thanks!
Great Job Nicely Done 👍🏽⚡️ Always Remember To Hook Up The Ground Wire First, And Hot Wire Last
This video address one of my next home repair. Your videos are great and easy to follow along. I did subscribed to your channel after watching this video
that is a great job by you to show a beginner how to do it but I am amazed by people who know how to do it by watching your video. Anyway thanks for taking the time to produce this video.
You can also cut only 3 sides of the drywall and insert the saw at a 45 degree angle then snap the uncut 4th side to act as hinges. This was you can simply fold it back and just apply mud inside and out. The reason for no taping is because of the 45 degree cut.
That is what I call a "Pro Tip." Thanks and that is a great idea. I am sure it takes a bit to get the technique down but would save a ton of time. Maybe a future video 😉
Brilliant sir! I’m totally using that tip. Thanks!
Awesome tip❤
Only thing I'd recommend would be if you're going through the trouble of using twist caps, use your pliers to twist them first then put the cap on top. I've removed twist caps for Wago's in my home but in doing so, I've developed a respect for how well pretwisted connections work.
Technically not necessary as wire nuts twist and bite into the wires but I agree that pretwisting is best. Exception would be stranded to solid, let the nut do the work on those.
Thanks for the video. Definitely helped me to get an understanding of drawing power to new recessed lights in the ceiling. Luckily I have attic access.
Hey Guru, happy to help and attic access will be a big help. Best of luck on your project and be safe 👍
your attention to details inspire me to be better on everything that I do, that is the way to success
Using a multi tool/ oscillating tool to cut your drywall is a good option as well. As in the fish tape...that works fine if you don't have installation in the way. If you do, a rod style may work better.
Very detailed instructions, well done! After moving to my new house four years, I searched on UA-cam about this multiple times but not convinced that I can do it myself. Electricians will come to my place to help out next week and UA-cam recommended this video to me, what a coincidence.
I guess I majorly paid for cutting and fixing dry wall.
Hey Peng, UA-cam is almost too good in knowing what you want to see/watch 😉. Best of luck on the project.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Lol, and in popular parlance: Neighborly Google espionage at work. Alternatively, Google spies. Oh wait, I shall be more constructive. For example, I will buy Huawei; expensive Huawei I will buy, cheap Huawei I will buy, slap a Huawei logo on a dead fish, I am still buying. Take my money so that one day it'll grow a spine, some legs, and a couple of fists for China.
How much did you pay? I’m too stupid to do these things and don’t want to mess up lol
@@Poppies__ it cost us around 200, which is reasonable for one hour work for two technicians.
Thanks for uploading this, you cleared things up quite a bit
Happy to help!
Loved the video and the taping, part was really nice to watching.
Great, glad you enjoyed the video!
Check your local building codes only because for condos, if multi-floor buildings, you typically cannot just put a hole in the ceiling. It creates a fire hazard because the "firewall" between floors has been compromised. I had this same issue, rewired it myself. I then decided to move and rent the condo. The inspectors made me open a permit and install a fire-retardant "hood" that you pop through the hole. It's a dome you push through the hole and it covers the hole and junction box. It is fireproof or resistant and is allowed by code.
If you are doing this much work... just go to the switch put in a 2 gang box one for the light and one for a fan or outlets and put in a fan rated box... u have to repair holes might as well do this job once and be done with it
So very simple . and that's exactly what I need to do . .. !!!!! the rest ( the moving the yellow cords away ) . was for me a little confused, but since I don't need to work on removing anything . !!!! the beginning is just what I need .. amazing job .. Thanks . !!!!
Great, best of luck on the project. Also checked the top (pinned) comment for a few notes I learned from all the commenters since the video was published.
Glad I found ya bro. Thanks for sharing bro!
7:28 If you are going around the stud with a wire, make sure you’re not going between the studs and drywall. If you must notch the stud for wire, be SURE to use a nail plate to prevent potential screws or anything else from damaging the wire.
I've, unfortunately, had to use a strike plate before. It's a last resort :/ I don't like notching but it was a fucked up wiring to begin with. Fixed what I could and made it cleaner and safer... but I didn't like that I had to notch it. Ironically enough I found out they had run another wire from far away through all the studs to a completely different room. I could have tapped that but had no idea it was there. Meh it works and looked good.
!!!! Thank you!
Ty!
I used chewed-up gum to cover the notch and wire - Is that OK, master Electrician sir?
Those nail pops are exactly why I always use screws when installing drywall they pretty much completely eliminate that issue when the screws are properly driven.
Yeah, was a bummer for sure. Just added the pops to the list of drywall repair.
I have heard that when drywall is installed at a contract level which means fast paced, installers use nails and glue to adhere the drywall since this makes it faster and easier handling of the sheet. I would use screws myself since I normally do small repairs and I am not too concerned about the time.
Nice video by the way
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Well, you were going to have the mud and paint out anyway, so no big deal.
I like people that do the job efficiently and effectively. I don't know if your professional worker but you nailed it an awesome job.
I am definitely not a licensed electrician but thanks for the kind words.
It is an advantage when the walls and ceilings are made of wood! Nice work.
I’ve been questioning myself for months how this is done got a quote guy wanted 600$ thank so sooo very much sir👍🏽👏🏽
Awesome, best of luck on the project and I would say $600 is a good motivator to tackle this project on your own. Stay safe!
600 is not bad if includes all the work, patching, and painting. And it's done by a professional.
Great video. Did the same thing a couple years ago. Tip- cut the drywall very carefully using a razor and use the same piece you cut out, to put back in.
And angle to blade a bit toward the center of the piece you are removing so it can't wobble or fall into the wall cavity when cutting openings between studs
Depends on the project. One hole, go for it. Dulls the blade quickly.
Multiple holes... far quicker to punch out or saw out and then just cut a new piece from a sheet of drywall.
Personally I like to punch it out with a hammer then square it out later or just use a rotary saw from the getgo. Either way cut a new piece, use some firring strips and screw and mud in the new piece. Done.
Finally the video I was looking for.
No attic
No existing wire
Great video! Very helpful. Thanks 😃👍
Also, regarding pulling the extra wire out. Personally I would have tagged them with a flag of electrical tape and wrote on them "Old 1/2 hot SL" (old half hot switch leg). It's always best to leave extra conductors in place if they are not damaged (for future use). They could have been used for some other project such as adding wall sconces or repairing a damaged wire burnt up at one of the receptacles.
I didn’t know about the isolation tab on the outlet before. Nice tip. One of the things that has bothered me for decades is the practice of not having a ceiling light wired to a switch and instead having it wired to the outlets. That has always been a WTF!?! thing for me. I mean if switchable outlets is something you might think someone would want than do that, but there needs to be at least one light fixture in the ceiling, with the switch by the door.
Back in the day that used to be common because people used lamps on a table controlled by the outlet
@@willschultz5452 That’s fine, but again switch for the ceiling light should have been the primary light. If you want that extra switchable outlet then install next to the ceiling light switch
@@mendodsoregonbackroads6632 yes ive seen those before also. The house I grew up in was built in 1961 and had no ceiling lights in any of the 4 bedrooms, or the family room or the living room. They were all a switch that worked a receptacle. The only place that had a switchable light was the kitchen, laundry room and the 3 bathrooms. It was very common back then.
@@willschultz5452 And that's why houses were cheaper back then! j/k
Also in some condos they don't install ceiling lights to avoid sound to travel. Sometimes they put the lights on walls too. Sometimes there's a concrete slab between the condos and they don't want to pierce through it to loose the sound isolation.
This is exactly my kitchen on a slab. After stumbling on some of your videos this one made me hit the subscribe button. Great video
Also donating
Excellent video, so clear and concise makes the job look a lot less intimidating. Can't wait to add a ceiling fan to my switch instead of the stupid ceiling fan running to a switched outlet like it is now.
Thanks! Best of luck on the project 👍
this is exactly what im looking for. Now I have to find a video on how to plug that big hole.
Blown insulation sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
This is what I am waiting , now i can relax my mind
You can take the night off 😁
A few important tips:
1. Use a multi tool to cut the Sheetrock instead of a utility knife or keyhole saw. Saves time and easier on the wrists.
2. Do not cut the hole in the Sheetrock over the studs. That way you can reinstall the cutout piece of Sheetrock. Screw in backer boards with course drywall screws to re-secure the cutout Sheetrock. Using the same piece will also assure that the original texture will line up.
3. I would suggest to install a fan box rated at 50lbs instead of a plastic box. There are fan boxes for existing Sheetrocked ceilings. Cut the hole and slip the bracket through the hole. It will clamp to the joists. That way, you have the option of a fan or light. You are not limited to a light.
Man, I used to keep my drywall holes small, but honestly, patching a large hole vs small holes is the same amount of work. Drywall is cheap and large openings speed up work.
plus, if the hole is large enough, a "nailer" can be inserted behind the impending joints to screw both parts of the sheetrock (drywall) to make for a better "new" section of wall. also, if you are able to cut the hole over existing framing members with an oscillating saw, the entire existing piece can be reinstalled, eliminating the need for a lumber yard trip, except for the joint compound.
Helpful information, thank you for sharing !
My pleasure!
Thanks! This was really helpful. I’m still struggling a bit because I want to do what you just did in this video but also add a 3-way switch into the equation, so having 2 switches that control the new installed light while leaving the power outlets always hot
I would suggest cutting the access hole smaller and away from the roof/wall joint. Smaller hole mean less drywall to patch (you can patch the drywall away from the studs as long as you use backing wood on two seams. Lower to avoid having to retape the roof/wall joint thereby avoiding mud work on the ceiling.
Then you would not have good access to the space where the snake is . You have to be able to get right into the corner
Patch and drywall are cheap, and about half the time you end up wishing you mad a bigger hole to start.
Bummer for the nail pops at 5:15. You only have that happen a time or two before "slow and easy" becomes the only way to make a new opening in existing drywall.
I was a working electrician for over a decade, doing lots of service & side work, and never knew in the beginning I'd also become a drywall repair expert. ;)
Very good, the right video I was looking for very informative. Thank you
The video I was looking for! Thanks !
Glad I could help!
Use this ceiling box ,it will pass NEC regulations www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-12-cu-in-Plastic-NM-Fan-Box-with-Plastic-Cover-CPB13NM-SM/205383211
Additional Notes from Commenters
1. Romex should not be run through a plenum
2. The box used should be able to hold a fan even if you aren't installing a fan originally. This would be a better old work box amzn.to/2W0rDfY
Per 2020 NEC must be able to carry a lot more weight than it used to. Check your AHJ.
Agree that you always need to install a fan specific ceiling box in the middle of a ceiling.
Since we're talking about fans, I always run 14/3 or 12/3 to ceiling boxes. Two reasons: the first is that if someone does put up a fan, you'll have separate fan and light controls if the customer doesn't want a remote. The other reason is that if the homeowner wants additional lights, you don't have to run a new line from the switch. Particularly with recessed lights: having multiple areas of light staging can be nice. Pro tip: if it's a serious rehab, put 3-ways beside the bed so you can walk into the room, get in bed and turn off the light without having to go back in forth to turn on a lamp of something. In addition, you can control the fan speed if you're too cold or hot during the night.
Omg, I just learned more in 5 minutes than I have in years!! Thank you!!!
Happy to help! Do check the top pinned comment for some additional notes on this project.
Excellent video! Explained really well, cheers🍻
Nice. Very useful. Working of the exact project.
So much for those naiils/screws holding the ceiling dry wall :( I saw it happen and was like DAMN!
My lath and plaster walls just laughed at me
I’m glad I found this. I have a two story condo (no attic) and have considered a ceiling fan so I liked this video just to get an idea of how much drywall damage will occur to help me decide if I wanna have that ceiling fan installed. Side note, the previous owner had a ceiling fan but lost the place in a foreclosure and the bank removed the ceiling fan so not sure if the wiring is there or not.
Make sure your box is supported. They make a box/support kit that fits through a box size hole and braces against the joists. Should be at big box stores or local electric distributer.
Very nicely done. Thanks.
great video! Yellow romex (12 gauge) is an overkill.
In my city it is the code to use 12AWG wire, 14AWG is not allowed. Yes, it can be a pain and more $$$
As always, a great video, you are a great teacher! As far as converting the outlets to always on, can’t you just disconnect the switch, and connect the switched wires together, adding a jumper to the switch, then use the switch for the light? I can see the value in simplifying by removing extra wires, but they are there, and safe. Am I missing something?
I wondered the same thing.
You could absolutely do that. It would certainly save you a lot of time. -the disadvantage is that a future electrician might find it confusing as to why there were 2 hots and wonder whether it's a shared neutral circuit. That said, making that assumption without checking at the switch to see if the receptacle was once switched is not too bright. Personally, I would have left the old switched wires in place in case someone wanted to change it in the future.
Great video to teach a beginner how to add a light the only thing I would change is I would cut a much smaller hole in the left stud space a couple inches lower so you don’t have to patch a corner and you can use that smaller hole to fish the wire into the right stud space
Thanks for the video, this is exactly what I need to do to my house!!!
Two things I would do differently here. 1) Twist the wires together with lineman pliers and snip them flush before applying the wire nut. The connection will be better and more secure. 2) Definitely no need to cut the drywall all the way into the corner like that. It's much easier to patch if you leave the corners undisturbed. Could have left 2" or so of drywall out from each corner and just had a flat patch.
You don’t need to use pliers especially with one wire
@@Dontcare523 "Need" to, no. You can carelessly stuff the wires in and it will usually still work. But any good electrician will tell you it makes a better connection if you twist the wires together. Won't loosen or come apart as you stuff it into the box, less likely to be a problem later. It's what lineman pliers are designed for.
@@dwasifarkaralahishipoor2223 if you twist the wire nut tight enough it’s fine the plier trick is a waste of time
@@Dontcare523 The plier "trick" is how professionals do it. But go ahead, be sloppy and careless. It's your house.
@@dwasifarkaralahishipoor2223 no they don’t I’ve never seen it you can let fixtures hang from only wire nuts if you know what you’re doing
60% of my work is fixing handyman electrical work. This video is future money in my pocket! Thanks
Frank Drebin, I was just thinking the same thing. He has it easy with this lay out. Did he drill through the double top plate? I missed that if he did. I would’ve also gone from the switch and just rewire the one outlet.
Why?
He used 12/2 Romex. Is the circuit 15 or 20 amp. Looked like he used 15 amp rated plugs. Also looked like there was less than 6" of wire at the plug.
@@jimmyjones6298 oh, because it’s a condo with cement walls and floors.
@@robertkachadoorian5926 normally you use 14 awg for lighting but larger wire can be used. In this case it doesn’t matter because you have to go by the existing wire size for the breaker size. But even if it’s a 20 amp circuit you can use 15 amp receptacles because you can’t plug a 20 amp device into it so the device won’t and can’t be overloaded.
I thought he did a very good job explaining his planning and thought process. I'm in the exact situation. My problem is I have a popcorn ceiling....so,...he has given me an idea how to do this w/out jacking up the ceiling.
Nice tips, thanks !!!
You bet!
Good job. I have the same issue at home. None of the rooms have a light and the light switch controls an outlet. To me that's the stupidest most pointless thing ever; why would anyone want to build a house like that?
Thank you for the video, watching it is the first step in trying to do something about it.
I think the outlets are used to power lamps and using the wall switches as on and off Instead of using the on and off switch on the lamp itself. Back in the days style.
This video was great learned a ton but could you also make a video of how to do a similar dry wall repair to that one so close to the ceiling like that.
he is not a drywaller. This is where you get a drywall guy to patch things up for you or if you want to do it yourself, youtube "how to drywall repair" as this dude is obviously just an electrician
Just added four Canless Lights to a room. Installed them with new wiring and connecting to an existing wall switch.
Used 6 3/8” hole saw (took 25 to 30 seconds to cut each hole).
City inspector signed off and good to go with drywalling the ceiling. Your vid provided some tips for the “next” time. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate it. Did you have to staple the new wiring any where?
@@waynegomillion4976 - Yes, used insulated staples along the joists to secure the wiring.
Nice work. I'm making a video installing 6 recessed can lights in a basement. I like you approach in your wiring technique. I use a multi-tool with a drywall blade. Makes a nice clean hole. I'm lucky though. I have access to the ceiling thru the closet under the stairs. Very professional and you explained on detail what you were doing. I'm just getting ideas how to do my video. Thank you and keep up the good work
what are you going to do with that triangle hole opening? nice video.
Rectangle?
Step one: Turn off power at the breaker/fuse box before doing anything with wiring/electrical.
Very good, indeed always.
@@jthonn Good point! It's also a good idea to double check with a non-contact voltage tester to make sure it's off. I don't like making assumptions with power.
step 2: call a licensed electrician
I only do hot, i love living on the edge
@@DaruDhillon id suggest using a proper meter as non contact testers are not very safe either.
Thanks for your information and video 📹 I appreciate you 🙏
My pleasure!
Very Helpful I appricciate it. 😀
That wall hole tells me you don’t do much drywall patching.
Now you have to tape the top edge and it’s a corner
If he gets the patch nice and tight on the cieling side, he can caulk the cieling angle or any other angle for that mater.. Just make sure you go all the way to the next corner, looks more uniform that way.
@@gmazz0913 I was thinking the same thing. Like cutting the quarter panel on your car front end to reach a spark plug
Thank you, was thinking the same thing. At least he made nice, square patchable holes. But there was a much more efficient way of removing the drywall (i.e. never needed to expose the top plate).
Any electrician that comes onto my job-site and starts bashing the walls with a hammer is asked to leave.
@@steveb6371 Cut the hole at least 3 inches below the ceiling that way you don't have to worry about patching the ceiling, just the wall.
@@johnbeckwith1361 I use the poll of a hatchet or hammer. No chance of hitting a cable and I'll square off the edges and cut new sheet of drywall to match later so who cares? I'm not reusing the same square I just cut anyways. It's just drywall.
I would be very cognizant of disturbing fire rated ceilings in a shared building.
Also be aware some condos may frown upon DIY projects, as that could potentially damage shared homes.
Just be aware of what you're dealing with
Great video! Really appreciate it
Happy to help!
very helpful thank you
I would have cut the Sheetrock away from the seam, much easier to spackle.
Now you just said you have a closet on the other side?! Why the hell didn’t you cut the rock in there?
Agree that cutting the drywall lower would have been a smarter move. The closet wouldn't have worked because it actually has a drop in the ceiling that would have made fishing the wire through a bit harder. Thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you got it done though!
thats what happens when you are dealing with a rookie
@@dematt321 he’s way better than any of the helpers my bosses have hired in the last ten years. They probably don’t pay enough?
Im not an electrician just a DIYer but I would of ran your new wire from your wall switch, not the outlet. Then at the switch you can wire your outlet hot all the time.
He installed a new outlet that with a tab between the switchable circuit that is hot all the time , regardless of the switch position.
@@JS-zj9fx yes. But he still could have taken his wire to the switch. Discarded old wiring (cap and label) and put on plugs without the tab broken lol.
New subscriber. Yay! Time to learn
Great video!
Good video. My tip would be to leave much more wire at every location. It drives me crazy when I open up a box and only find about 3" of wire. Very difficult to work with.
Thanks for the feedback Roman!
Well how long should it be !?
@@davidwillard7334 6 inches
Us electricians use a 5 “ hole saw. We straddle the stud and take out a plug than we go to the switch box not the outlet than we screw the plugs back in. Much cleaner job and easier to patch. FYI a yellow wire in the US denotes 277 volt. Also the code says the p ring is too far back requiring an extension. But that’s just us electricians.
Hey James, I appreciate you sharing your experience. Thanks for the feedback.
oh man this is awesome!! thank you for sharing this. only difference i have are metal "studs" in my condo.
Good quality video. 👍
Probably start out by saying switch off at circuit breaker first ! Before you touch wires?
@OGR Better to be a Debbie Downer than an Electrified Eric. LOL
A 3 inch hole saw works perfect for those type of ceiling boxes
For sure, I only had a 2 1/4" handy so turned to the jab saw. Thanks for the tip!
As a DIYer myself, I like your laymen speak and how you tackled the project. Well done! I have a ceiling fan project that the wife has bestowed on me - . My outlet and switch situation are similar to yours and thanks for your tips on leveraging the existing switch to control the ceiling fan. My switch is for the wall outlet which I don't need - it's better for my usage to convert the wall outlet to always ON.
Best of luck on the project and since you will be installing a fan make sure you get the bracket that can hold the fan weight and not the smaller Old Work box like I used.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yep, got the ones from homedepot that are expandable and get bolted to the joist. The install is on the top floor with access to the joists in the ceiling.
Ty great video!
awesome video and well explained. exactly the same problem i need to resolve in the townhome bedroom
This was a great lesson on showing viewers that you don't have to be an expert electrician to do simple electrical installs. Curious about why you used 12 AWG Romex. Usually this circuit would be on a 15a breaker and AWG 14 would surface (and a lot easier to work with). You also installed new outlets, why not just add a jumper to the existing ones? I would have moved the light box up against the ceiling joist and installed a fan bracket to allow for a ceiling fan (maybe in the future) and light; this would also require running a three conductor Romex (black, red, white) to the ceiling from the switch. Are you in the US? I've never seen yellow wire used in lighting installs.
Hi David, I had extra 12-2 from another project if I was buying wire specifically for this I would probably grab some 14-3 Romex. Agree with adding a fan bracket and others have mentioned specifically this one amzn.to/2W0rDfY . Yeah, this condo is in the Midwest but the wiring seems to be more along the lines of a commercial as opposed to residential install since they used conduit throughout the unit. Appreciate your feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs If it is a 15A breaker and the rest of the wire is 15A, using the 12-2 is a violation of NEC. You should have used 14-2.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I used this saddle style box that saddle mounts to a joist (and TJI). It leaves less space to work a fish, but still doable in most installations. "RACO 1-Gang Black Plastic New Work Standard Saddle Boxes Ceiling Electrical Box". Found it at Ace Hardware and Lowes. Supposedly can support a ceiling fan too. I could not use the fan bracket since there was duct work in the center of the room and I did not want to move too far off that line, but the adjacent joist was still somewhat centered. Thanks for your videos!
@@eddie3721 sir, I am an electrical guy and do not believe the use of 12-2 in this case is a code violation. The circuit breaker should protect the lowest rated part of the circuit...the 15a recepticles and 14-2. The larger wire should not violate anything, but if you have a code section. I will be happy to stand corrected.
Why not put in a ceiling fan rated box while you are at it? Super simple.
I'm considering doing this same thing in my house, but will want to hang a chandelier. If the joist isn't in the center of the room, do I just cut out the ceiling past the 2 joists on either side and install a joist between them?
@@SailChimpTodd, you can buy a ceiling fan brace. Home Depot link is at www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-15-3-cu-in-Remodel-Construction-Ceiling-Fan-Brace-with-1-1-2-in-Box-CMB150-OB/205383178?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-205383178-_-N There are UA-cam videos that show how to install it. You can feed the brace through the 3-inch ceiling hole and tighten it up from below.
@@SailChimp You get a ceiling fan box that comes with a safety brace that wedges between the joist. Make sure your box is flush with ceiling.
This is such a well made video !
Thanks!
Lucky you have a “drop on the other side of the wall for a laundry closet”.
In real life one is seldom that lucky.
Code states 6" min of wire sticking out of the box for the fixture. Your are the one the I fuss about whenever I come back in behind you to fix the light with a loose wirenut.
Thinking the same. I appreciate showing people how to DIY. But if you don’t have all the stuff down, that’s the reason people mess stuff up.
Also, did you see him loop the ground? I didn’t. Maybe I missed it or didn’t show but I didn’t see it.
@SUBJECT M01 got it. I skipped ahead because I couldn’t watch it anymore lol
I wonder if he pulled an electrical permit? Lol I’m not sure how code works where he’s from but here in Canada... when only having a hot and SL in a box was still legal... you could carry power to the switch on your white conductor..but your SL back HAD to be the black. And why did he run 12/2? Here 14/2 would suffice.
@@jimmymcintyre4889 Its a condo and technically a commercial installation. In many states, you must be a certified electrician to do the work which precludes a homeowner from DIY. Also commercial properties require upgraded wiring, usually one AWG larger.
Love it ❤
Great content, keep it up👍👍
In general, I think that there are some good recommendations for routing the cable; however you need to note that this is probably an electrical code violation. You can't run electrical cables in a duct or air plenum unless they are rated for the use. These are not. For this reason, I was bewildered about how the original switch and outlet installation had passed inspection until he states that the wiring is in conduit. Installation in conduit satisfies the code, open Romex does not.
Thanks for the feedback Gary.
I’m trying to route romex on an attic, does it have to be specially sealed too?
@@CharlesLukoba The air plenum / duct issue shouldn't be applicable.
@@garynichols206 Gary is correct. You can run Romex in a plenum space.
Running Romex in a cold air return is allowed at least where I live you just have to make sure your box has a vapour boot on it to prevent air coming out the box