Be honest, are you guilty of leaving the wire connections out of the box in the past? It is very common. Also, there are links to everything you saw in the video in the description of the video if you would like to check them out for yourself!
I don't know, my electrician installed the fan so I have to assume he knew what he was doing. The fan didn't come with a light kit so I bought an aftermarket kit years later and installed it myself.
I'm a professional electrician and I do this. The space under the cover is usable wiring space according to code. While it's a good idea to do this in order to try saving space for wireless fan controllers it's not required and makes servicing easier, especially for fans with your style of bracket.
Great video. As a side note and maybe a repeat: IF the wires from the ceiling box and the fan are long enough, you can make your electrical connections while the fan is hanging on the "hook" and then push them through the bracket hole into the ceiling box before mounting the fan motor to the bracket. It's easier to do and easier to make certain the connectors remain undisturbed.
I installed this Hampton Bay fan just a month ago and it’s the noisiest fan I’ve ever installed. And I’ve done a hundred fans. And for ease of wiring do that before screwing the motor to the ceiling bracket. That gives you more room to get the wires up into the box. Good video!
Haha my Hampton bay is making an awful high pitched noise when the light is on. I didn't put it on a dimmer switch but they do dim, when holding the light button on the remote and brighten. Dim it's louder than when it's bright. So annoying.
I installed my first ceiling fan today all because of this video. Thank you for providing clear and detailed instructions that are beginner friendly. ❤
First, if it is a metal box, you should be good to go. If it is plastic, they are rated for different weights (grey plastic boxes are rated for heavier loads) and you can check with the hardware guys on the rating. In either case, if it is loose, you have issues. If you cannot secure it better, you can remove it and buy a ‘remodel construction ceiling fan brace’ at the hardware store. They work pretty well.
If your replacing a light with a ceiling fan you should make sure that your ceiling electrical box can handle the added weight / vibration and that the box is securely mounted to the ceiling joists. You would not want the fan falling down from the ceiling.
@DW424 is correct, ceiling fan junction boxes are labeled as "Fan Rated". Ceiling junction boxes that previously supported a light fixture may not be fan support rated.
This is an extremely important point. A nail on ceiling box or even a ceiling box that has bracket to mount between studs are not suitable for a fan. There are many options available to retrofit with a fan rated box.
The box in the video is clearly a fan rated box. But even if it wasn’t, how many years did we go using standard fixture boxes and people’s fans aren’t just falling out of the ceiling. In fact up until fairly recently this was not even a requirement unless the fan weighed 35 pounds or more. These fans, unless much larger, are typically nowhere near this weight. So while yes it would be best to install a fan rated box and currently code, let’s not pretend like the fan is just going to come down in a fixture box. In most cases it won’t and hasn’t.
@@johnpicard4909 you are definitely not wrong that for many years no one knew of or used fan rated boxes, however we at least screwed those boxes to a ceiling joist or at least pulled on them to make sure they would support whatever we were hanging. My point really was that it was not mentioned and people should be aware. In my area, particularly for homes built in the 70’s and 80’s ceiling boxes are often nail on and I have seen fans pull away from the ceiling even if they didn’t fall. They might not be overly dangerous, but they don’t look great.
I definitely have done it. Pancake boxes that are listed to support fans could never accommodate all those wires. There is an exception in the code that does allow the wires to utilize the canopy space in a box fill calculation. I do agree you should tuck the wires up though. Sometimes its impossible.
Just the video I needed to see, Recently had a job working with a master electrician and noticed he ran a 14-3 wire to ceiling fan areas in the bedrooms. I wondered why he did that but now I know exactly why. Also he ran it out of a 2 gang switch box which l thought for certain it’s just a 1 switch box. I immediately noticed I was thinking wrong. The black wire connects to fan and red goes to light or visa versa. Amazing job explaining this your video is a pot of gold.
There are times that getting all the connections into the box is almost impossible. One example is a fan that has a remote receiver. Those take up all the room above the mounting ball and they have connections not only to the switched power, but to the fan wiring as well. Id love to see a video that includes the remote receiver, especially with one of the fans that has a relatively small trim on the ceiling side.
Not to mention that you’ll have a bunch of splices in the light fixture portion of the assembly that aren’t in a junction box either, so what difference does it make? At least on the fan side of the hanging bracket any sparks from a poor connection are falling down onto metal. If you tuck the wires into the junction box, those sparks are falling down onto the paper backing of the drywall...
@@davido3403 BIG time ! & especially when the shroud/canopy thingy doesn't just fit over the entire motor like this one but rather must already be just below everything giving you only a few inches of play at most. Even if it's not a flush mount & has a downrod. Not exactly a one man job, though I'm sure it is for some pros. Hell, I've done a few dozen in my time & I couldn't even do the light-kit section alone on the last one I did.
Notice the lack of a ball on this fan. This fan is going to be noisy AF before long with the $10 chinesium motor and the screwed together mounting with nothing to absorb the vibration.
On most fixtures that I've replaced, there is a ground screw intentionally placed facing up (when installed correctly) to indicate that the wiring is intended to be above the plate. This relates to his mention about code and wire location.
Lots of people called out making sure the box is rated for a fan...but I didn't notice anyone mentioning grounding that bracket. Most ceiling fans come with a green screw and pigtails to ground the mounting strap and fixture. Technically you get there if the old box was metal and properly grounded, when the screws bond them together...but there are fan rated plastic boxes out there. The mounting hardware needs to be mounted.
Very well done. These fans have definitely come a long way in ease of installation. I see lots of comments about if the box is rated to support a fan and using a spreader bar to span to the next joist. Another thing is there are usually holes in the bracket so that If your box is mounted to the joist you can screw directly into the joist through the bracket to support the bracket and the weight of the fan. This also cuts down on any wobbling that might occur. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Oh yes, they have come a VERY long way. My goodness these used to be a real chore to hold up in place and screw them in and also screw in each individual fan blade. It is all so easy now. Thanks a lot for the feedback. I really do appreciate it!
As others have noted, that box may not be rated to support a fan. I would unscrew it from the hangar or joist and check out the support. It it's on a joist no problem - just get a fan box and screw it in. If it's one of the usual cheap hangars that can be replaced by one that you insert in the joist bay through the hole and turn to tighten. Thx.
It may not be right but the 5/8 ceiling drywall will hold it up lol, as long as it’s screwed tight to the ceiling joists & you have the fan tight not vibrating. Obviously not something I recommend but you’d be surprised how many I’ve found hung like that in old places
One thing I've noticed on these particular brackets is the center hole where the wires pass through is there can be sharp edges at the center hole So before I install the bracket , I'll use a snap in anti short bushing to prevent severing the wires When tucking them into the box , Another thing that if I was using wago connectors , Before tucking them into the box I'd wrap them with a little bit of electrical tape to prevent the levers from snagging other wires and causing them to pop up , One very very important thing is before you begin installing the fan is to make sure that the junction box is fully secured to support the weight of the fan and the box must be a metal box Never use a plastic junction box , Many light fixtures use a junction box that has a side bracket that is nailed to the joist , , In that case I had to remove that box and get a ceiling fan box kit which has a spreader bar which spans the joists and spikes that dig into the joists and you tighten it with a crescent wrench , with that kit You don't have to cut the hole in the ceiling any bigger because you first put the spreader bar in the hole , Rotate the spreader bar until you feel it spanning the joists and tighten it with a crescent wrench , Then put your wires into the box and attach it to the spreader bar , I installed 3 ceiling fans at my brother's house and when I removed the light fixtures , Sure enough , The junction boxes had those side brackets and were nailed to the joist and they were plastic boxes as well, So luckily I was able to remove them and used the ceiling fan junction box kit for each fan which works great , and because of it's design is more than strong enough to support the weight of the fan , Also you'll want to use that kit if you're installing a heavy chandelier as well because chandeliers can be much more heavy than a ceiling fan Whenever you're checking to make sure the power is off , Always use a regular voltage tester , Never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder As mentioned before , The center hole in the fan mounting bracket , Be sure to install a snap in anti short bushing where the wires pass through to prevent severing the wires , Many ceiling fans have this style of mounting bracket and for added safety , use washers on the screws when mounting the fan bracket to keep the heads of the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket because I've noticed how wide those elongated holes are and that's why I use a couple of washers when mounting the bracket
@@Watchyn_Yarwood Thank you , I've installed over 100 ceiling fans and before they came out with the ceiling fan junction box kit , I used to have to go up in the attic and nail a 2 X 4 over the junction box between the joists and screw the box to the 2 X 4 but I don't have to do that anymore with the ceiling fan junction box kit , One thing that makes it great is you don't have to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger and the spreader bar which spans the joists has spikes on the ends which dig into the joists and you just tighten it with a crescent wrench , Always use a couple of washers on the screws when mounting the bracket to the junction box to prevent the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket and the center hole on the bracket where the wires pass through , Install a snap in anti short bushing in the center hole to prevent sharp edges from severing the wires
more clearly: you have to use a box that is rated for use with a ceiling fan. they do make rated plastic boxes, though. they also make a box that screws directly to the side of a ceiling joist, which is a lot easier than the retrofit bar hung box; if you're lucky enough to have the fixture box against the ceiling joist.
Glad I found this video. I ordered push-in wire connectors and learned it's only for copper wires and not aluminum which most fans come with. Assuming these can take aluminum.
@@HowToHomeDIY ahh good to know. I have a hard time getting the twisted ceiling fan Wire to take on the push in connectors. Just ordered the ones you used in the video!!
Thanks for this video. It is just in time because I will be having a celling fan reinstalled. I will make sure that the ones who install it will not make the common mistake.
Thank you, your video answered my question perfectly because my fan instructions also said that the connections need to be pushed back into the electric box. Ok then!
That is all fine and good until you deal with a remote transceiver. The hole in the top of the bracket is often not large enough to facilitate up to 11 wires through it: 2 hots, a neutral and a ground, 5 wires on the remote and 2 grounds from the fan.
Oh yeah. Makes it really nice. I added a smart switch for the fan so I can control it with my phone and set schedules for it to automatically turn in at the same time each night and off in the morning. It’s great. Thanks Clarence!
When two or more switches together, the first switch closest to the door, should always be for illuminating the room your entering into. This applies to garages or any building too.
counterpoint: when you have two or more switches at an entry door, the one closest to the door should turn on the light outside the door, and then they should go in order of how commonly the light is used - I.E. the second turns on the primary light inside the door, and any more switches will turn on accent lights.
@@kenbrown2808 guess it's a matter of preference. I've also heard the first switch one comes to when exiting to the outside, should turn on the outside light(s). Probably depends on the codes in any area and the year of construction.
@@lcee6592 that's all just common practice. the only code is that any entry door to a space has to have a switch near the door that can turn on a light in the space.
My 2005-era home was wired this way as well - closest to bedroom or room entry door is light, then the next one is fan. If a gang of 3, the 3rd and furthest would be switched outlet.
You forgot to say "make sure it's a fan rated box." My house is only about 12 years old, and the boxes in the front bedrooms are plastic new work, not metal. But even metal isn't necessarily rated for the weight of a ceiling fan.
Good video. Note...you want to pay attention to the lock washers as well when installing the small bolts through the top bracket and the ceiling mount. It appears you put the large cover but didn't make sure the lock washer was on the outside, not between the ceiling bracket and the decorative shroud. Like Reacher always reminds us, "details matter." lol
I replaced a kitchen light with a fan MANY years ago and mine didn't have that handy area below the box to deal with the wires. It ALSO didn't have that hanger, and let me tell you, it's a PAIN to hold a fan while wiring it up! And no WAGO either.... it's just so much easier nowadays.
I started not to watch your video because I have no interest in installing a ceiling fan. Then I thought I may learn something new. I’m glad because now I know why one switch turn on my light only.
Just a suggestion, whenever you have exposed wires and something can always go wrong, please add one of the in line wagos to each wire so that none are exposed when you turn the breaker on to test. That way there is nothing exposed in case there is an accident and you happen to slip and your hands touch a wire. Anything can happen and being as prepared as possible would decrease the chance of a bad day.... the plus side, you would have half the wiring done.
Very true indeed because when working on a ladder , Just a little zap can cause you to fall off the ladder and possibly injuring yourself permanently or end up killing yourself and never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder , A friend of mine several years ago was working on a light fixture and he got a zap and fell off the ladder and ended up with a broken back , Luckily his daughter was there to call for help and he was very very lucky that he wasn't paralyzed by his broken back , Safety is an absolute must when it comes to electrical work Especially when working on a ladder and my friend could have easily been paralyzed or killed and just that little zap is all it took to knock him off the ladder
@@wayneyadams That's especially important when working on a ladder and never use a non contact voltage tester to check to make sure the power is off because a non contact voltage tester can give you a false reading with the wires in close proximity to each other , When it comes to safety , There's no such thing as being too careful , Another thing is always have a second person with you when doing electrical work , Especially when working on a ladder also known as The Buddy System That way if an accident was to happen That person can call for help Never do electrical work by yourself , It's a very risky thing to do and if an accident was to happen , You could be seriously injured with nobody to call for help and possibly be dead from electrocution There's safety in numbers and you'll feel much more comfortable too
Did three fans for my ex. Had remotes and so little room to slide sending unit into the top and get all the wires up in box . Those connectors look nice I’ll have to try them over nuts
In older homes the metal boxes used to be nailed up with roofing nails. I have always run some deck screws through the box for added security when asked to install a ceiling fan. Just my 2 cents.
Thank you for this instructional video it was very helpful to me. I got my fan running but ran into another problem I don't see addressed, I can't turn my fan off, not with the wall switch , not wth the remote. I can change the fan speed and turn the light off and on but can't turn the fan off with the remote or wall switch. Any suggestions how to fix this?
Absolutely. Box fill would have to be taken into consideration in certain applications, but to get around that you could just do a rough calculation of the canopy volume, label it inside with a sharpie, and dare someone to find code that says otherwise. . . Anyone that says you can’t is just trying to argue based on technicalities. At the end of the day it is a grounded metal enclosure. There is zero practical reason that the canopy isn’t just as safe as a junction box. I could even argue that it is safer considering the potential for falling sparks and the proximity to the drywall’s paper backing.
Another thing to make sure of is that the mounting box is rated for ceiling fan because sometimes they’re only rated for lights and they might not be able to support a heavy ceiling fan and you also definitely wanna make sure that there is an actual mounting box because some of the ceiling fans in my old house or mounted horribly because they were screwed directly into the wooden ceiling beams
Another great video! I installed 2 Hunter remote ceiling fans where just light fixtures used to be, except the wires coming from my ceilings were just a black and a white, no ground or red (1 wall switch not 2 like you show). The wires are coming through conduit if that makes a difference? The problem is, both fans make a humming sound. They are wired per the instructions but for the life of me I can't find the source of the humming. Thank you!
did the remote come with the fans? some hunter fans are picky about what type of speed control they run on, and will hum if the wrong speed control is used.
@@kenbrown2808 The remote came with the fans. I have tried all 4 speeds including reverse mode. This is the most confusing thing. I have installed several fans and no noise until I went remote.
If the fan has pull chains turn the light switch on at the fan then use the pull chain for the fan motor to set the speed on high. Of course for the remote control on the wall switch do the same. Now that it is operating correctly there will be no hum and to make sure none of your company or guests inadvertently pull a pull chain on the fan shorten both pull chains higher than most people can reach.
Hell yes I do, every time I shuve thoughs wire up in the box one comes lose, so I started taping the wagos and still leave them in the large space below. I always install for repair techs on down the road, service loop, lable all wires & cables, I sure wish everyone had that mentality.
Thank you for the video! I blue screened a little bit when I was replacing my fan and the colors didnt match up. Additionally, the instructions wanted me to wrap both the black and blue wires from the fan to the black wire in the ceiling. I have two switches though, one for the fan and one for the light. Thank you so much!
Not sure if you're a certified Journeyman electrician but I thought that I would offer another way that I find much safer to ensure you have the correct conductor wire on the correct switch location on your double switch. With the power off and all your wires unconnected hanging loose. Take one of your wires either red or black and have it make contact with the ground conductor at the ceiling fan and then at the switch location take that same color wire and using the ohms resistance toner on every electrical meter you could simply tone out that wire. For the sake of UA-cam videos and showing other people I thought I would mention this because when it comes to electricity you can never be too safe especially when showing other people what to do. I mean no disrespect I've just been at it for a long time and maybe you have to and already know what I'm talking about
Pushing the wires back up on top of the bracket -- that's what the hook is for. Hang the fan by the hook, push the fan's wires through the hole, and make the connection in the box. This saves not having to worry about tripping the levers when pushing the Wagos back through the hole.
If the box is not mounted securly above, as to a rafter, it could fail to hold the fan up. Also the actual box will be stamped "rated for celing fan". A standard light box is not rated to support the weight and vibration of a ceiling fan. But over all a very good video.
Because they use junction boxes with side brackets when installing standard light fixtures , You'll need to remove that kind of box and get a ceiling fan junction box kit which has a spreader bar with spikes on the ends to dig in and grip the joists and you just tighten it with a crescent wrench and there's no need to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger
@@mike_realityi Because of the fact that they use junction boxes with a side bracket when installing a standard light fixture , The boxes are nailed to the joist which will pull out very easily from the weight of the fan I installed 3 ceiling fans at my older brother's house and sure enough the junction boxes were plastic and had side bracket mounting and were nailed to the joist , when I removed the boxes , They were not nailed good at all All it took was a regular size screwdriver and pried them out with little effort and replaced them with the ceiling fan junction box kit which has a spreader bar to span the joists and spikes on the ends that dig into the joists so there is no way it will slip out , once you position the spreader bar , you tighten it with a crescent wrench and will be clamped tight between the joists , Anytime I install a ceiling fan , The very first thing I check is the junction box where the fan will be installed What's great about the ceiling fan junction box kit is you don't have to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger and with the kit You don't have to go up in the attic either It's very easy to install and is very strong The kit is definitely needed if you install a large chandelier because a chandelier can be much more heavy than a ceiling fan
he cheated. that's a fan rated box. you can tell because the mounting screws extend through the top of the box. (it's a distinct characteristic of that model of fan box)
In bedrooms, I put the light on the wall switch and the fan on a pull cord. If we need to get up in the night and turn on the light, it is easy to find the switch.
Nice video. I really would have liked to have seen the proper way to balance the fan blades. I also don't trust preexisting wiring so I would have tested to make sure none of the wires were energized, not just the two the should be hot.
I once replaced a fan that was separate switches for fan and light... But when I opened up the ceiling box, there was only a Black and white.... They used the ground as the other switch leg....
The fan wires are usually long enough to leave the fan motor hanging on the hook while you make splices, and in some cases even to tuck the splices up in the box. Gives you more room to work instead of working in the small space once the motor is screwed to the bracket.
Oh no, the decorative metal shroud has a slight bend in it that nobody will ever notice. That is definitely as dangerous as leaving the wiring out of the ceiling box 😂
Question; what if your house has only 1 switch to operate the ceiling fan and light like my home? I had previous ceiling fans in that were just fan and light. Recently, I installed a Hunter fan with remote. Now there is a slight humming sound from the fan. (the previous fans, non-remote also had the noise but not as loud) Could the humming be caused by having only 1 wall switch and not 2 (1 for fan, 1 for light)? I wired the fan per instructions from Hunter. Thank you!
The "hum" you hear is the metal laminations vibrating in the motor when AC current is present, an this generally happens on cheaper brand ceiling fans. I am surprised this happened to a Hunter ceiling as they a noted for their quietness and quality. I would contact Hunter Technical Customer Support and see if there is a fix for the hum or else you may have received a less than perfect motor and ask them to send a new motor under warranty. The 1 electrical switch situation does not create a motor hum. Bill
thats why I ziptie the wires to the mounting bracket, stuff the wire nuts under the bracket. really irritating to get fan all installed, 2 days later get call back there's tapping noise from ceiling fan
@@harveylong5878 Yeah. Some boxes are too thin to put wires in. There was a time someone replaced three Modern Fan Co. Cirrus with Home Decorators Collection Merwry and they had to replace the boxes because the canopies are apparently too small to have both a receiver and wire nuts.
Mine will because they are all ceiling fan boxes with a support connecting two joists or rafters together. A standard nail in box is not recommended but plenty of people use them and they are fine. But a ceiling fan box would be best.
@@HowToHomeDIY Not picking on you. I have saved most of your videos because of the great information. Especially the transfer switching and AC cleaning. Great content. Take care Bro.
My question too. The security of the box should be verified before attempting anything else. Only if you are replacing an old cealing fan with a new one should you go straight to instlation. Even then, I would check for box security. If replacing a light fixture, always check box security...
Smart switches? Hugh, why not have bluetooth in these modern stealth blade ceiling fans. Just a small app to control everything. Get info about revolutions (RPM) and power usage. Even a thermostat that kicks in if temperature rises. Be aware that ceiling fans are not an airco. So they blow room temperature air around. Only your skin evaporates sweat more easily (windchill) and that cools down. A lot of second-hand fans are sold, some only as esthetics. They make noise, are a hazard if you stick arms and hands up without remembering it is spinning there. I recommend checking this beforehand, some ceiling fans without lights are better suited.
I've run into problems putting the house on, where the screws will not line up or a gap between the ceiling and housing. This can be very irritating. If working with an older box, not able to hold the weight, it has to be removed, and the new ceiling fan brace installed. Could you show an easy way to remove the old box that is nailed to rafter. Another problem I ran across was that the housing screws would not line up on one side. Finally, after removing everything down to the wood brace and reinstalling it with a new box, the problem was still there. I had to use washers to level it. The 2x6 brace had a dip in it, causing it the problem.
I have lived in San Diego for over 50 years. All the houses built in the last 30 years track or custom all have blue plastic boxes. What do we do differently in this case?
Sometimes it’s not possible to do it, like when the box is too thin. In this case, if it’s a hugger, use lots of zip ties to ensure that the wire would never scrape the motor.
Hi, Can you advise on troubleshooting: after installation, fan runs and lights are on. But soon after, it will not start and the fan switch string now suddenly controls the lights, while the lights switch string is also working fine. What could be the cause of fan malfunction?
OK, I install the fan. Thank you so much awesome video. But the humming noise from the motor is resonating through the ceiling Joist which is quite nerve-racking. Is there some sort of noise reduction washers or sound canceling foam that I could use while connecting the brackets to the joist?
The "hum" you hear is the metal laminations vibrating in the motor when AC current is present, an this generally happens on cheaper brand ceiling fans. You might want to contact the fan manufacturer about this problem to see if they have a fix.
It's a bit easier to hook the connections and stuff the wires if you leave the assembly hanging on the hook, then stuff the wires as you go to mount the plate in place. If that makes sense.
There are a few things I would like to add to this fan installation. 1. If the fan circuit is in the same room as the entertainment system, turning off the circuit breaker would be a hassle. Could you only turn off the two switches and test for power existence? 2. If this is a DIY project, you don't know the rate of the electrical box. It's dangerous and a code violation if the electrical box is only for lighting fixtures. Even if the box is strong enough to handle the fan weight, I don't like the design of using two little screws to attach the fan bracket to the electrical box. I would utilize the 4 screws that connect the fan motor to the fan bracket. First, check if any studs at the 4 holes. If there are no studs, I would use 4 strong anchors to install and use for screws that come with the anchors instead of using 4 factory screws. I won't sit under the fan running at the highest speed with this installation. 3. Before installing the fan bracket, make room for the electrical box so we can easily push all connections back into the box. The power wires look old and oxidized. We can lightly sand them or cut them off and make new ones. 4. I think the fan wires have labels to show for light and fan. As someone suggests, more than likely, the switch that is closest to the entrance is the light switch, or just turn it on to double-check without opening the switch cover. In addition, the rubber band that ties the wiring of the fixture is for boxing the fan. It should be removed for connecting to the power. Worsely, it should not be pushed back to the box. Nothing should be in the electrical besides electrical wires and nuts with the correct code.
I have an old ceiling fan without a light fixture and it’s gone dead. Is it possible to buy a ceiling fan with a light fixture? I wouldn’t have to do any kind of rewiring? I’m assuming I just put those two wires and connect to the main wire?
The fact that there is actually a box in there is amazing as I’m literally replacing the one in my rental due to the landlord just handing that bar from the joist itself with no box
I'll be having two ceiling fans on one wall switch, so it's chain switches for me. The box in my kitchen is too full to stuff the wires into, and the one in my living room is a pancake box (both boxes were properly mounted and installed by electricians), so the wires will have to stay in the bracket. BUT....those are cool wire connectors, so I'm gonna check those out. Two questions though: 1) if I need to strip a wire, what size hole on the stripper do I use to do this with? I haven't bought one yet, but it will be a USA-made Klein stripper. I just have the standard black, white, and copper ground. 2) In my kitchen box there is two copper ground wires nutted together (I assume one comes from the wiring, and one comes from the box that was installed). Do I just put the ground wire from the fan with those two ground wires? For context, the ceiling fan boxes were installed when I had my ceiling rebuilt with new framing, insulation, and sheetrock, and there were two switch panels on the wall, one on top of the other, with the power switch being the lower switch. The switch above it controlled which light was on between the light in the kitchen and the light in the living room (yes, it was a cheap, shitty setup installed by the house flipper who "remodeled" this single-wide). The electrician and I spoke about it and agreed to just bypass that switch for constant "on" with both boxes. So he wired them together and mounted a blank plate over the wall box. Now I have just one switch with the main power to both ceiling boxes, and then my porch light in the same wall box with its own switch. I hope this isn't too confusing. And no, nothing about this house is up to code. Hopefully I'll be out of here in a few years with a better job somewhere else. In the meantime however I want ceiling fans. Thanks!
I have two red, two white, and two black wires coming from my ceiling fixture. It was connected to a ceiling fan. I want to connect a ceramic light fixture to it. There are two wall switches controlling this. Any ideas on how this gets connected? Thank you.
There's one 14/3 in that 2 gang box right and a hot 14/2. And you just pigtail 2 grounds (green), cap the 2 neutral, pigtail 2 hots (black). And the other red and black wire from the 14/3 are the switch leg for each switch in the 2 gang? I'm just not sure if you can separate the red to one switch and black to another switch from just one 14/3.
If you use the in line wagos, use heat shrink tubing to keep them from accidentally getting opened. Electrical tape will work, but makes a mess when the connections need to be changed/replaced.
My house has pre-wired dual multi-position sliding switchest to allow for a variable speed fan with a dimmabke light. Are there any special considerations I need to worry about either when selecting or installing the fan/light?
Have you done a video on "packing boxes"? I've done a lot of electrical, but I still have a problem sometimes packing a very busy box, getting all the wires to fit neatly. Do you have a special technique to make that a bit easier?
I've had a lot of clients that refuse to walk across the room to flip a switch. Every light has at least a three way control if not four or five. I think those people need wireless electronic controls. Hardwiring that many switches is just stupid.
I think it's a good common practice no matter what connector you use you should always use black electrical tape that way the connector and the wire can never come completely apart and be exposed to a short or shock someone.
if your connector won't hold without tape, you're using the wrong connector or installing it wrong. and yes, I've had lots of connections where a tape covered wire nut fell right off.
@@kenbrown2808 why would you say a wire nut wouldn't hold a wire? Tape is only wrapped around the wires and the wire nut to make sure it never comes apart and it can't short or cause someone to get shocked. It's just an extra safety measure you don't have to do it by code but people that wants to make sure things are extra safe do it this way and electrical tape is cheap.
I love your videos. Precise, clear instructions and importantly code compliance also. You are one of the best. Thank you and keep adding more useful videos.
Question. The ceiling fan I have, the wire connection plug burnt. I plan on purchasing the wago 221-2401, cutting the 9 circuit terminal socket and connecting each wire with the wago connectors. The wires on the Hampton bay ceiling fan and light kit all have 18awg written on them. Do I have to use that gauge or can I use 16 awg if I need more wiring to make the connections longer?
Hi! What would the wiring be for ceiling fan and light with 3 way switches at 1 at opposite sides of the room? Is it the same wiring? Subscriber fan! Great info! FYI, The 3 way switches are currently working on light and the pull chain is not turning on the fan, why I don't know, help! Thsnks!!
One hudge important thing, can that box support the weight of a celing fan? Thats a valid question Most people overlook. Yes it could support a light but the light only weights 15 lbs at most. Whats the celing fan weight? 65 lbs
I’m confused. I have a light fan and it has white and black coming from the fixture and I have white, black,red, ground from the ceiling. Can you help on what to connect to what?
How can you tell the difference between neutral and ground wires? My dad tore his ceiling fan out when he was drunk (lol) and it's just been the bare wires for years. One of them is black and the other two are white, so it's not immediately obvious.
If you don’t have a red wire does that mean you can only have the fan working when the light is also on? Mine has a remote control but I’m not sure how the wall switch interacts with the remote.
I installed a similar fan using the exisiting wall light switch and fan switch and wiring to to the ceiling box and have noticed that when I have the fan running and the lights off (LED), the lights have a very, very faint glow when the room is dark. I know LEDs respond to far lower voltage than incandecent bulbs, but I find this odd. Should I be concerned about the light switch in the wall?
The one thing I expected to be mentioned in this video is to ensure that you have the correct box mounted in the ceiling. A light can be mounted in a regular box, but if you are going to replace a light with a ceiling fan, you need to ensure that the box has a hanging bar. If you mount a fan to a box, even one that is nailed to a joist, the fan can (and often does) work the box loose and you'll have a flying guillotine at some random time in the future. I replaced the ceiling lights in 2 of the bedrooms in my house with ceiling fans and crawled up into my attic to ensure that those lights had hanger bars attached to the ceiling joist on both ends. Astonishingly, they did, so I was good to mount fans in both the bedrooms.
Well mine was clearly a fan rated box. It’s pretty easy to tell. But your example of the fan often coming loose and becoming a flying guillotine is pretty over the top. Did you know that fan rated boxes weren’t even required by code for fans under 35 pound until fairly recently? There are fans all over this country in boxes that are not fan rated that have been installed for many years and they aren’t just falling out of the ceiling. It is actually incredibly rare for that to happen. Should you use a fan rated box now? Absolutely. But it’s nowhere near the danger that you are suggesting.
@@HowToHomeDIY -- I would say that it depends on how out of wack the balance is (I've seen some that were VERY wobbly) and also if the box is an Old Work box with the tabs holding it in place. I've seen my fair share of fans fly out of ceilings because they were installed by people who didn't know to make sure the box was secure. All I'm saying is that that's the first thing to look at when replacing a small light fixture. But, hey, if you don't mind ceiling fans smashing into kids during dinner, more power to you.
@@dienekes4364 If the box is modern blue plastic it won't hold up to a fan without support, and I agree with you. Metal boxes have to be attached to a board like the one in this video, and will hold a fan without any issues. The metal boxes with welded mounting brackets are not fan rated and need reinforcement. I've found fans mounted to the old grey fiberglass boxes just attached to nothing but ceiling joists that have held up for over 25 years. That said, I have always reinforced those and the blues with a 2x4 in the attic. I have found neither blue nor grey without attic access. If I did I would use a retrofit safety bar to replace them. Definitely more work, but worth the effort and expense. One of my former coworkers had a fan fall from a vaulted ceiling and land on her foot breaking several toes. The second bone of the big toe was shattered and required metal plates, pins and screws to replace it. Not repair, replace, as in fused. It may not be a guillotine, but the blunt force trauma from a falling fan ain't no joke.
@@ST-0311 -- Yep, "guillotine" was definitely a little bit hyperbolic, but they can still do some decent damage. I just thought that if someone is switching out a light for a fan, it'd be worth mentioning that the first thing you check is to make sure the box is secure enough to take the weight.
Be honest, are you guilty of leaving the wire connections out of the box in the past? It is very common. Also, there are links to everything you saw in the video in the description of the video if you would like to check them out for yourself!
Yup, guilty
I don't know, my electrician installed the fan so I have to assume he knew what he was doing. The fan didn't come with a light kit so I bought an aftermarket kit years later and installed it myself.
Yep and it's just fine. I've never had a problem leaving them out of the box, and I will continue to do it that way. Not an issue at all.
It can definitely be an issue. But you continue creating a hazard and violate code for no reason.
I'm a professional electrician and I do this. The space under the cover is usable wiring space according to code. While it's a good idea to do this in order to try saving space for wireless fan controllers it's not required and makes servicing easier, especially for fans with your style of bracket.
Great video. As a side note and maybe a repeat: IF the wires from the ceiling box and the fan are long enough, you can make your electrical connections while the fan is hanging on the "hook" and then push them through the bracket hole into the ceiling box before mounting the fan motor to the bracket. It's easier to do and easier to make certain the connectors remain undisturbed.
3.45 where the box for ceiling fan
I installed this Hampton Bay fan just a month ago and it’s the noisiest fan I’ve ever installed. And I’ve done a hundred fans. And for ease of wiring do that before screwing the motor to the ceiling bracket. That gives you more room to get the wires up into the box. Good video!
Some of the Chinese ones are lacking 5 drops of if 30 weight oil on the two bearings.
Haha my Hampton bay is making an awful high pitched noise when the light is on. I didn't put it on a dimmer switch but they do dim, when holding the light button on the remote and brighten. Dim it's louder than when it's bright. So annoying.
Always buy a fan with a DC motor. Super quiet and energy efficent
I installed my first ceiling fan today all because of this video. Thank you for providing clear and detailed instructions that are beginner friendly. ❤
Before you do anything, after you remove the light fixture, make sure that the box is properly rated and secured to hold the weight of the fan.
He didn't do that
2020 NEC 314.27(C) That's why you see fan base wobbling around in the ceiling J-box from 1970 house.
how do we do that
First, if it is a metal box, you should be good to go. If it is plastic, they are rated for different weights (grey plastic boxes are rated for heavier loads) and you can check with the hardware guys on the rating. In either case, if it is loose, you have issues. If you cannot secure it better, you can remove it and buy a ‘remodel construction ceiling fan brace’ at the hardware store. They work pretty well.
👍! You beat me to it. Don't assume that it was installed to code.
If your replacing a light with a ceiling fan you should make sure that your ceiling electrical box can handle the added weight / vibration and that the box is securely mounted to the ceiling joists. You would not want the fan falling down from the ceiling.
I agree!
@DW424 is correct, ceiling fan junction boxes are labeled as "Fan Rated". Ceiling junction boxes that previously supported a light fixture may not be fan support rated.
This is an extremely important point. A nail on ceiling box or even a ceiling box that has bracket to mount between studs are not suitable for a fan. There are many options available to retrofit with a fan rated box.
The box in the video is clearly a fan rated box. But even if it wasn’t, how many years did we go using standard fixture boxes and people’s fans aren’t just falling out of the ceiling. In fact up until fairly recently this was not even a requirement unless the fan weighed 35 pounds or more. These fans, unless much larger, are typically nowhere near this weight. So while yes it would be best to install a fan rated box and currently code, let’s not pretend like the fan is just going to come down in a fixture box. In most cases it won’t and hasn’t.
@@johnpicard4909 you are definitely not wrong that for many years no one knew of or used fan rated boxes, however we at least screwed those boxes to a ceiling joist or at least pulled on them to make sure they would support whatever we were hanging. My point really was that it was not mentioned and people should be aware. In my area, particularly for homes built in the 70’s and 80’s ceiling boxes are often nail on and I have seen fans pull away from the ceiling even if they didn’t fall. They might not be overly dangerous, but they don’t look great.
I definitely have done it. Pancake boxes that are listed to support fans could never accommodate all those wires. There is an exception in the code that does allow the wires to utilize the canopy space in a box fill calculation. I do agree you should tuck the wires up though. Sometimes its impossible.
Just the video I needed to see, Recently had a job working with a master electrician and noticed he ran a 14-3 wire to ceiling fan areas in the bedrooms. I wondered why he did that but now I know exactly why. Also he ran it out of a 2 gang switch box which l thought for certain it’s just a 1 switch box. I immediately noticed I was thinking wrong. The black wire connects to fan and red goes to light or visa versa. Amazing job explaining this your video is a pot of gold.
There are times that getting all the connections into the box is almost impossible. One example is a fan that has a remote receiver. Those take up all the room above the mounting ball and they have connections not only to the switched power, but to the fan wiring as well. Id love to see a video that includes the remote receiver, especially with one of the fans that has a relatively small trim on the ceiling side.
Them remote recievers can be hell to fit!!
Not to mention that you’ll have a bunch of splices in the light fixture portion of the assembly that aren’t in a junction box either, so what difference does it make? At least on the fan side of the hanging bracket any sparks from a poor connection are falling down onto metal. If you tuck the wires into the junction box, those sparks are falling down onto the paper backing of the drywall...
@@davido3403 BIG time ! & especially when the shroud/canopy thingy doesn't just fit over the entire motor like this one but rather must already be just below everything giving you only a few inches of play at most. Even if it's not a flush mount & has a downrod. Not exactly a one man job, though I'm sure it is for some pros. Hell, I've done a few dozen in my time & I couldn't even do the light-kit section alone on the last one I did.
I just installed one with the remote, never again. A pull switch will last a lot longer than a receiver.
Notice the lack of a ball on this fan. This fan is going to be noisy AF before long with the $10 chinesium motor and the screwed together mounting with nothing to absorb the vibration.
On most fixtures that I've replaced, there is a ground screw intentionally placed facing up (when installed correctly) to indicate that the wiring is intended to be above the plate. This relates to his mention about code and wire location.
Lots of people called out making sure the box is rated for a fan...but I didn't notice anyone mentioning grounding that bracket. Most ceiling fans come with a green screw and pigtails to ground the mounting strap and fixture. Technically you get there if the old box was metal and properly grounded, when the screws bond them together...but there are fan rated plastic boxes out there. The mounting hardware needs to be mounted.
Very well done. These fans have definitely come a long way in ease of installation. I see lots of comments about if the box is rated to support a fan and using a spreader bar to span to the next joist. Another thing is there are usually holes in the bracket so that If your box is mounted to the joist you can screw directly into the joist through the bracket to support the bracket and the weight of the fan. This also cuts down on any wobbling that might occur.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Great demonstration! Good teacher!
Fans much improved from my early days of fitting up a household, 60 years ago.
LEDs worth the wait!
Oh yes, they have come a VERY long way. My goodness these used to be a real chore to hold up in place and screw them in and also screw in each individual fan blade. It is all so easy now. Thanks a lot for the feedback. I really do appreciate it!
As others have noted, that box may not be rated to support a fan. I would unscrew it from the hangar or joist and check out the support. It it's on a joist no problem - just get a fan box and screw it in. If it's one of the usual cheap hangars that can be replaced by one that you insert in the joist bay through the hole and turn to tighten. Thx.
It may not be right but the 5/8 ceiling drywall will hold it up lol, as long as it’s screwed tight to the ceiling joists & you have the fan tight not vibrating. Obviously not something I recommend but you’d be surprised how many I’ve found hung like that in old places
One thing I've noticed on these particular brackets is the center hole where the wires pass through is there can be sharp edges at the center hole
So before I install the bracket , I'll use a snap in anti short bushing to prevent severing the wires When tucking them into the box , Another thing that if I was using wago connectors , Before tucking them into the box I'd wrap them with a little bit of electrical tape to prevent the levers from snagging other wires and causing them to pop up , One very very important thing is before you begin installing the fan is to make sure that the junction box is fully secured to support the weight of the fan and the box must be a metal box Never use a plastic junction box , Many light fixtures use a junction box that has a side bracket that is nailed to the joist , , In that case I had to remove that box and get a ceiling fan box kit which has a spreader bar which spans the joists and spikes that dig into the joists and you tighten it with a crescent wrench , with that kit
You don't have to cut the hole in the ceiling any bigger because you first put the spreader bar in the hole , Rotate the spreader bar until you feel it spanning the joists and tighten it with a crescent wrench , Then put your wires into the box and attach it to the spreader bar , I installed 3 ceiling fans at my brother's house and when I removed the light fixtures , Sure enough , The junction boxes had those side brackets and were nailed to the joist and they were plastic boxes as well, So luckily I was able to remove them and used the ceiling fan junction box kit for each fan which works great , and because of it's design is more than strong enough to support the weight of the fan , Also you'll want to use that kit if you're installing a heavy chandelier as well because chandeliers can be much more heavy than a ceiling fan
Whenever you're checking to make sure the power is off , Always use a regular voltage tester , Never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder
As mentioned before , The center hole in the fan mounting bracket , Be sure to install a snap in anti short bushing where the wires pass through to prevent severing the wires , Many ceiling fans have this style of mounting bracket and for added safety , use washers on the screws when mounting the fan bracket to keep the heads of the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket because I've noticed how wide those elongated holes are and that's why I use a couple of washers when mounting the bracket
Good idea!
@@Watchyn_Yarwood Thank you , I've installed over 100 ceiling fans and before they came out with the ceiling fan junction box kit , I used to have to go up in the attic and nail a 2 X 4 over the junction box between the joists and screw the box to the 2 X 4 but I don't have to do that anymore with the ceiling fan junction box kit , One thing that makes it great is you don't have to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger and the spreader bar which spans the joists has spikes on the ends which dig into the joists and you just tighten it with a crescent wrench , Always use a couple of washers on the screws when mounting the bracket to the junction box to prevent the screws from possibly pulling through the bracket and the center hole on the bracket where the wires pass through , Install a snap in anti short bushing in the center hole to prevent sharp edges from severing the wires
more clearly: you have to use a box that is rated for use with a ceiling fan. they do make rated plastic boxes, though. they also make a box that screws directly to the side of a ceiling joist, which is a lot easier than the retrofit bar hung box; if you're lucky enough to have the fixture box against the ceiling joist.
Glad I found this video. I ordered push-in wire connectors and learned it's only for copper wires and not aluminum which most fans come with. Assuming these can take aluminum.
It is not aluminum wire most of the time. It’s tinned copper making it like silver in color. If it is aluminum it has to be clearly marked as such.
@@HowToHomeDIY ahh good to know. I have a hard time getting the twisted ceiling fan
Wire to take on the push in connectors. Just ordered the ones you used in the video!!
@TheBluuHouse yeah this is one of the applications where I really like using the lever connectors.
Best close camera work of any videos, sharp and clear. Nice job.
Thanks for this video. It is just in time because I will be having a celling fan reinstalled. I will make sure that the ones who install it will not make the common mistake.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Thank you, your video answered my question perfectly because my fan instructions also said that the connections need to be pushed back into the electric box. Ok then!
That is all fine and good until you deal with a remote transceiver. The hole in the top of the bracket is often not large enough to facilitate up to 11 wires through it: 2 hots, a neutral and a ground, 5 wires on the remote and 2 grounds from the fan.
Good Lord, I love seeing a fully organized and loaded tool rack! Even your beard is perfectly organized!
This is one of the best videos I've seen on how to install a ceil fan with the lights thank you for this.
I added a fan and light without using a wall switch. It works on a remote. So easy for me and useful for my wife 😊
Oh yeah. Makes it really nice. I added a smart switch for the fan so I can control it with my phone and set schedules for it to automatically turn in at the same time each night and off in the morning. It’s great. Thanks Clarence!
When two or more switches together, the first switch closest to the door, should always be for illuminating the room your entering into. This applies to garages or any building too.
Appreciate the input.
counterpoint: when you have two or more switches at an entry door, the one closest to the door should turn on the light outside the door, and then they should go in order of how commonly the light is used - I.E. the second turns on the primary light inside the door, and any more switches will turn on accent lights.
@@kenbrown2808 guess it's a matter of preference. I've also heard the first switch one comes to when exiting to the outside, should turn on the outside light(s). Probably depends on the codes in any area and the year of construction.
@@lcee6592 that's all just common practice. the only code is that any entry door to a space has to have a switch near the door that can turn on a light in the space.
My 2005-era home was wired this way as well - closest to bedroom or room entry door is light, then the next one is fan. If a gang of 3, the 3rd and furthest would be switched outlet.
Good deal. I was thinking about a changing a couple of fans, but I need to work on a non-functioning light socket on a fan first
You forgot to say "make sure it's a fan rated box."
My house is only about 12 years old, and the boxes in the front bedrooms are plastic new work, not metal. But even metal isn't necessarily rated for the weight of a ceiling fan.
Good video. Note...you want to pay attention to the lock washers as well when installing the small bolts through the top bracket and the ceiling mount. It appears you put the large cover but didn't make sure the lock washer was on the outside, not between the ceiling bracket and the decorative shroud. Like Reacher always reminds us, "details matter." lol
I replaced a kitchen light with a fan MANY years ago and mine didn't have that handy area below the box to deal with the wires. It ALSO didn't have that hanger, and let me tell you, it's a PAIN to hold a fan while wiring it up! And no WAGO either.... it's just so much easier nowadays.
It is a lot easier now most of the time! I remember having to do that as well. Appreciate the feedback!
I started not to watch your video because I have no interest in installing a ceiling fan. Then I thought I may learn something new. I’m glad because now I know why one switch turn on my light only.
I like that fan's style, and I think the new way of attaching the blades is pretty snappy! 😉 Cool video, thanks! 😉😂
Just a suggestion, whenever you have exposed wires and something can always go wrong, please add one of the in line wagos to each wire so that none are exposed when you turn the breaker on to test. That way there is nothing exposed in case there is an accident and you happen to slip and your hands touch a wire. Anything can happen and being as prepared as possible would decrease the chance of a bad day.... the plus side, you would have half the wiring done.
Very true indeed because when working on a ladder , Just a little zap can cause you to fall off the ladder and possibly injuring yourself permanently or end up killing yourself and never trust a non contact voltage tester because you want to be absolutely sure the power is off when working on a ladder , A friend of mine several years ago was working on a light fixture and he got a zap and fell off the ladder and ended up with a broken back , Luckily his daughter was there to call for help and he was very very lucky that he wasn't paralyzed by his broken back , Safety is an absolute must when it comes to electrical work
Especially when working on a ladder and my friend could have easily been paralyzed or killed and just that little zap is all it took to knock him off the ladder
The very first thing I do is put a Wago connector on every exposed wire so there is no chance of contacting live wires.
@@wayneyadams That's especially important when working on a ladder and never use a non contact voltage tester to check to make sure the power is off because a non contact voltage tester can give you a false reading with the wires in close proximity to each other , When it comes to safety , There's no such thing as being too careful , Another thing is always have a second person with you when doing electrical work , Especially when working on a ladder also known as The Buddy System
That way if an accident was to happen
That person can call for help
Never do electrical work by yourself ,
It's a very risky thing to do and if an accident was to happen , You could be seriously injured with nobody to call for help and possibly be dead from electrocution
There's safety in numbers and you'll feel much more comfortable too
What is the in-line wagos?
Thanks you’re really save my life is telling me that and I’m grateful
Did three fans for my ex. Had remotes and so little room to slide sending unit into the top and get all the wires up in box . Those connectors look nice I’ll have to try them over nuts
Very helpful information, especially regarding the word, for my very first ceiling fan installation.
In older homes the metal boxes used to be nailed up with roofing nails. I have always run some deck screws through the box for added security when asked to install a ceiling fan. Just my 2 cents.
I used lag bolts into a joist on an old house.
Best ceiling fan installation video!
Excellent explanation!!!
Thank you that was a excellent demonstration of installing a ceiling fan. 👍🏾
I wish you would have mentioned something about the added weight of the fan and how to secure it to more than just the junction box.
Very important
Thank you for this instructional video it was very helpful to me. I got my fan running but ran into another problem I don't see addressed, I can't turn my fan off, not with the wall switch , not wth the remote. I can change the fan speed and turn the light off and on but can't turn the fan off with the remote or wall switch. Any suggestions how to fix this?
Sounds like an electrical hookup problem.
The canopy of the fixture is an extension of the box , and the connections can reside outside the box as long as they are contained in the canopy
No it isn’t. That is not an approved box.
Absolutely. Box fill would have to be taken into consideration in certain applications, but to get around that you could just do a rough calculation of the canopy volume, label it inside with a sharpie, and dare someone to find code that says otherwise. . .
Anyone that says you can’t is just trying to argue based on technicalities. At the end of the day it is a grounded metal enclosure. There is zero practical reason that the canopy isn’t just as safe as a junction box. I could even argue that it is safer considering the potential for falling sparks and the proximity to the drywall’s paper backing.
Another thing to make sure of is that the mounting box is rated for ceiling fan because sometimes they’re only rated for lights and they might not be able to support a heavy ceiling fan and you also definitely wanna make sure that there is an actual mounting box because some of the ceiling fans in my old house or mounted horribly because they were screwed directly into the wooden ceiling beams
Another great video! I installed 2 Hunter remote ceiling fans where just light fixtures used to be, except the wires coming from my ceilings were just a black and a white, no ground or red (1 wall switch not 2 like you show). The wires are coming through conduit if that makes a difference? The problem is, both fans make a humming sound. They are wired per the instructions but for the life of me I can't find the source of the humming. Thank you!
did the remote come with the fans? some hunter fans are picky about what type of speed control they run on, and will hum if the wrong speed control is used.
@@kenbrown2808 The remote came with the fans. I have tried all 4 speeds including reverse mode. This is the most confusing thing. I have installed several fans and no noise until I went remote.
@@jazzman9469 sounds like Hunter is starting to cut corners.
It's possible the blades need to be tightened, and if that doesn't work, balance the fan blades.
If the fan has pull chains turn the light switch on at the fan then use the pull chain for the fan motor to set the speed on high. Of course for the remote control on the wall switch do the same. Now that it is operating correctly there will be no hum and to make sure none of your company or guests inadvertently pull a pull chain on the fan shorten both pull chains higher than most people can reach.
Hell yes I do, every time I shuve thoughs wire up in the box one comes lose, so I started taping the wagos and still leave them in the large space below. I always install for repair techs on down the road, service loop, lable all wires & cables, I sure wish everyone had that mentality.
Have installed lots of fans. I always replace or ensure the screws holding the octogon box are long enough to hold the additional weight
Thank you for the video! I blue screened a little bit when I was replacing my fan and the colors didnt match up. Additionally, the instructions wanted me to wrap both the black and blue wires from the fan to the black wire in the ceiling. I have two switches though, one for the fan and one for the light. Thank you so much!
Not sure if you're a certified Journeyman electrician but I thought that I would offer another way that I find much safer to ensure you have the correct conductor wire on the correct switch location on your double switch. With the power off and all your wires unconnected hanging loose. Take one of your wires either red or black and have it make contact with the ground conductor at the ceiling fan and then at the switch location take that same color wire and using the ohms resistance toner on every electrical meter you could simply tone out that wire. For the sake of UA-cam videos and showing other people I thought I would mention this because when it comes to electricity you can never be too safe especially when showing other people what to do. I mean no disrespect I've just been at it for a long time and maybe you have to and already know what I'm talking about
Pushing the wires back up on top of the bracket -- that's what the hook is for. Hang the fan by the hook, push the fan's wires through the hole, and make the connection in the box. This saves not having to worry about tripping the levers when pushing the Wagos back through the hole.
Thank you for your video. Your instructions are clear with great visuals!
Love this video. Would be great to have a video for a fan with a remote.
If the box is not mounted securly above, as to a rafter, it could fail to hold the fan up. Also the actual box will be stamped "rated for celing fan". A standard light box is not rated to support the weight and vibration of a ceiling fan.
But over all a very good video.
Good point. I installed a couple of fans before I found this out. Luckily they were small fans and no catastrophe resulted.
Because they use junction boxes with side brackets when installing standard light fixtures , You'll need to remove that kind of box and get a ceiling fan junction box kit which has a spreader bar with spikes on the ends to dig in and grip the joists and you just tighten it with a crescent wrench and there's no need to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger
You got to it before I could. This was the first thing I saw as a common DIY'er mistake
@@mike_realityi Because of the fact that they use junction boxes with a side bracket when installing a standard light fixture , The boxes are nailed to the joist which will pull out very easily from the weight of the fan
I installed 3 ceiling fans at my older brother's house and sure enough the junction boxes were plastic and had side bracket mounting and were nailed to the joist , when I removed the boxes , They were not nailed good at all
All it took was a regular size screwdriver and pried them out with little effort and replaced them with the ceiling fan junction box kit which has a spreader bar to span the joists and spikes on the ends that dig into the joists so there is no way it will slip out , once you position the spreader bar , you tighten it with a crescent wrench and will be clamped tight between the joists , Anytime I install a ceiling fan , The very first thing I check is the junction box where the fan will be installed
What's great about the ceiling fan junction box kit is you don't have to cut the hole for the junction box any bigger and with the kit
You don't have to go up in the attic either
It's very easy to install and is very strong
The kit is definitely needed if you install a large chandelier because a chandelier can be much more heavy than a ceiling fan
he cheated. that's a fan rated box. you can tell because the mounting screws extend through the top of the box. (it's a distinct characteristic of that model of fan box)
In bedrooms, I put the light on the wall switch and the fan on a pull cord. If we need to get up in the night and turn on the light, it is easy to find the switch.
Nice video. I really would have liked to have seen the proper way to balance the fan blades. I also don't trust preexisting wiring so I would have tested to make sure none of the wires were energized, not just the two the should be hot.
I once replaced a fan that was separate switches for fan and light... But when I opened up the ceiling box, there was only a Black and white.... They used the ground as the other switch leg....
I have a vaulted ceiling that slopes, my question is does the box come with the piece that holds the fan away from the ceiling?
The fan wires are usually long enough to leave the fan motor hanging on the hook while you make splices, and in some cases even to tuck the splices up in the box. Gives you more room to work instead of working in the small space once the motor is screwed to the bracket.
I leave my wire connections out but I don't dent the metal with a power screwdriver.
Oh no, the decorative metal shroud has a slight bend in it that nobody will ever notice. That is definitely as dangerous as leaving the wiring out of the ceiling box 😂
Question; what if your house has only 1 switch to operate the ceiling fan and light like my home? I had previous ceiling fans in that were just fan and light. Recently, I installed a Hunter fan with remote. Now there is a slight humming sound from the fan. (the previous fans, non-remote also had the noise but not as loud) Could the humming be caused by having only 1 wall switch and not 2 (1 for fan, 1 for light)? I wired the fan per instructions from Hunter. Thank you!
The "hum" you hear is the metal laminations vibrating in the motor when AC current is present, an this generally happens on cheaper brand ceiling fans. I am surprised this happened to a Hunter ceiling as they a noted for their quietness and quality. I would contact Hunter Technical Customer Support and see if there is a fix for the hum or else you may have received a less than perfect motor and ask them to send a new motor under warranty. The 1 electrical switch situation does not create a motor hum. Bill
It wouldn’t be as big of a deal on downrod ceiling fans, but yes there had been times where wires scrape a motor on huggers.
thats why I ziptie the wires to the mounting bracket, stuff the wire nuts under the bracket. really irritating to get fan all installed, 2 days later get call back there's tapping noise from ceiling fan
@@harveylong5878 Yeah. Some boxes are too thin to put wires in. There was a time someone replaced three Modern Fan Co. Cirrus with Home Decorators Collection Merwry and they had to replace the boxes because the canopies are apparently too small to have both a receiver and wire nuts.
You are super good. I like the way you teach. God bless you. 👍
Excellent video and the info is amazing clear and simple
Question. Will the 4" work box in the ceiling hold the weight of the fan/light combo? Or do you need to put in a rafter bracket in the ceiling?
Mine will because they are all ceiling fan boxes with a support connecting two joists or rafters together. A standard nail in box is not recommended but plenty of people use them and they are fine. But a ceiling fan box would be best.
@@HowToHomeDIY Not picking on you. I have saved most of your videos because of the great information. Especially the transfer switching and AC cleaning. Great content. Take care Bro.
@josephreisinger33 Oh yeah I was just answering the question. Really appreciate the feedback Joseph!
My question too. The security of the box should be verified before attempting anything else. Only if you are replacing an old cealing fan with a new one should you go straight to instlation. Even then, I would check for box security. If replacing a light fixture, always check box security...
Smart switches? Hugh, why not have bluetooth in these modern stealth blade ceiling fans. Just a small app to control everything. Get info about revolutions (RPM) and power usage. Even a thermostat that kicks in if temperature rises. Be aware that ceiling fans are not an airco. So they blow room temperature air around. Only your skin evaporates sweat more easily (windchill) and that cools down. A lot of second-hand fans are sold, some only as esthetics. They make noise, are a hazard if you stick arms and hands up without remembering it is spinning there. I recommend checking this beforehand, some ceiling fans without lights are better suited.
I've run into problems putting the house on, where the screws will not line up or a gap between the ceiling and housing. This can be very irritating. If working with an older box, not able to hold the weight, it has to be removed, and the new ceiling fan brace installed. Could you show an easy way to remove the old box that is nailed to rafter. Another problem I ran across was that the housing screws would not line up on one side. Finally, after removing everything down to the wood brace and reinstalling it with a new box, the problem was still there. I had to use washers to level it. The 2x6 brace had a dip in it, causing it the problem.
I have lived in San Diego for over 50 years. All the houses built in the last 30 years track or custom all have blue plastic boxes. What do we do differently in this case?
Sometimes it’s not possible to do it, like when the box is too thin. In this case, if it’s a hugger, use lots of zip ties to ensure that the wire would never scrape the motor.
Need to do a video on balancing a fan now.
If a fan needs to be balanced.... buy a new fan.
Hi,
Can you advise on troubleshooting: after installation, fan runs and lights are on. But soon after, it will not start and the fan switch string now suddenly controls the lights, while the lights switch string is also working fine.
What could be the cause of fan malfunction?
OK, I install the fan. Thank you so much awesome video. But the humming noise from the motor is resonating through the ceiling Joist which is quite nerve-racking. Is there some sort of noise reduction washers or sound canceling foam that I could use while connecting the brackets to the joist?
The "hum" you hear is the metal laminations vibrating in the motor when AC current is present, an this generally happens on cheaper brand ceiling fans. You might want to contact the fan manufacturer about this problem to see if they have a fix.
It's a bit easier to hook the connections and stuff the wires if you leave the assembly hanging on the hook, then stuff the wires as you go to mount the plate in place. If that makes sense.
There are a few things I would like to add to this fan installation.
1. If the fan circuit is in the same room as the entertainment system, turning off the circuit breaker would be a hassle. Could you only turn off the two switches and test for power existence?
2. If this is a DIY project, you don't know the rate of the electrical box. It's dangerous and a code violation if the electrical box is only for lighting fixtures. Even if the box is strong enough to handle the fan weight, I don't like the design of using two little screws to attach the fan bracket to the electrical box. I would utilize the 4 screws that connect the fan motor to the fan bracket. First, check if any studs at the 4 holes. If there are no studs, I would use 4 strong anchors to install and use for screws that come with the anchors instead of using 4 factory screws. I won't sit under the fan running at the highest speed with this installation.
3. Before installing the fan bracket, make room for the electrical box so we can easily push all connections back into the box. The power wires look old and oxidized. We can lightly sand them or cut them off and make new ones.
4. I think the fan wires have labels to show for light and fan. As someone suggests, more than likely, the switch that is closest to the entrance is the light switch, or just turn it on to double-check without opening the switch cover. In addition, the rubber band that ties the wiring of the fixture is for boxing the fan. It should be removed for connecting to the power. Worsely, it should not be pushed back to the box. Nothing should be in the electrical besides electrical wires and nuts with the correct code.
I have an old ceiling fan without a light fixture and it’s gone dead. Is it possible to buy a ceiling fan with a light fixture? I wouldn’t have to do any kind of rewiring? I’m assuming I just put those two wires and connect to the main wire?
The fact that there is actually a box in there is amazing as I’m literally replacing the one in my rental due to the landlord just handing that bar from the joist itself with no box
Typical with knob and tube wiring in ceilings and wall lights.
I always wondered why no one wraps the connector with a layer of electric tape to ensure the levers don't flip up. Is there a reason?
You certainly can. But if you’re just careful when placing them then there should not be an issue.
what should i do if there are multiple (3) wire batches, each containing a black, white, and ground?
I'll be having two ceiling fans on one wall switch, so it's chain switches for me. The box in my kitchen is too full to stuff the wires into, and the one in my living room is a pancake box (both boxes were properly mounted and installed by electricians), so the wires will have to stay in the bracket. BUT....those are cool wire connectors, so I'm gonna check those out.
Two questions though: 1) if I need to strip a wire, what size hole on the stripper do I use to do this with? I haven't bought one yet, but it will be a USA-made Klein stripper. I just have the standard black, white, and copper ground. 2) In my kitchen box there is two copper ground wires nutted together (I assume one comes from the wiring, and one comes from the box that was installed). Do I just put the ground wire from the fan with those two ground wires?
For context, the ceiling fan boxes were installed when I had my ceiling rebuilt with new framing, insulation, and sheetrock, and there were two switch panels on the wall, one on top of the other, with the power switch being the lower switch. The switch above it controlled which light was on between the light in the kitchen and the light in the living room (yes, it was a cheap, shitty setup installed by the house flipper who "remodeled" this single-wide). The electrician and I spoke about it and agreed to just bypass that switch for constant "on" with both boxes. So he wired them together and mounted a blank plate over the wall box. Now I have just one switch with the main power to both ceiling boxes, and then my porch light in the same wall box with its own switch.
I hope this isn't too confusing. And no, nothing about this house is up to code. Hopefully I'll be out of here in a few years with a better job somewhere else. In the meantime however I want ceiling fans. Thanks!
I didn’t see you install a support fan bar, very important that you do.
Didn't have to. Was already there. That will be listed as one of the first steps in the instructions that come with any fan you buy.
I have two red, two white, and two black wires coming from my ceiling fixture. It was connected to a ceiling fan. I want to connect a ceramic light fixture to it. There are two wall switches controlling this. Any ideas on how this gets connected? Thank you.
There's one 14/3 in that 2 gang box right and a hot 14/2. And you just pigtail 2 grounds (green), cap the 2 neutral, pigtail 2 hots (black). And the other red and black wire from the 14/3 are the switch leg for each switch in the 2 gang? I'm just not sure if you can separate the red to one switch and black to another switch from just one 14/3.
Great video- very helpful. Thank you!!!
If you use the in line wagos, use heat shrink tubing to keep them from accidentally getting opened. Electrical tape will work, but makes a mess when the connections need to be changed/replaced.
@@lylecoglianese1645 and then fill the box with sprayfoam just to make sure NOBODY can ever access the connections.
Haha UA-cam needs a SARCASM FONT 😅
My house has pre-wired dual multi-position sliding switchest to allow for a variable speed fan with a dimmabke light. Are there any special considerations I need to worry about either when selecting or installing the fan/light?
Have you done a video on "packing boxes"? I've done a lot of electrical, but I still have a problem sometimes packing a very busy box, getting all the wires to fit neatly. Do you have a special technique to make that a bit easier?
I've even resorted to using a piece of wood to push the wires tightly into the box. I'm sure that's a Nono!
I've had a lot of clients that refuse to walk across the room to flip a switch. Every light has at least a three way control if not four or five. I think those people need wireless electronic controls. Hardwiring that many switches is just stupid.
How about a video about arguing with unreasonable clients? That would be a good one!
How about instructions for wiring a dual switch to a remote receiver?
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
I think it's a good common practice no matter what connector you use you should always use black electrical tape that way the connector and the wire can never come completely apart and be exposed to a short or shock someone.
if your connector won't hold without tape, you're using the wrong connector or installing it wrong. and yes, I've had lots of connections where a tape covered wire nut fell right off.
@@kenbrown2808 why would you say a wire nut wouldn't hold a wire? Tape is only wrapped around the wires and the wire nut to make sure it never comes apart and it can't short or cause someone to get shocked. It's just an extra safety measure you don't have to do it by code but people that wants to make sure things are extra safe do it this way and electrical tape is cheap.
Thanks!
You are very welcome! Really glad you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback and the Super Thanks! It is very much appreciated!
That hook is a lifesaver!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video helps out a lot.💯
I love your videos. Precise, clear instructions and importantly code compliance also. You are one of the best. Thank you and keep adding more useful videos.
How do you balance an imbalanced fan?
If you're shoving the wagos back into the box, could you wrap them in electrical tape first so they can't come undone?
Yeah you could.
How about if you have a switch for a socket but not a overhead light. How would you go about adding one of those.
Question. The ceiling fan I have, the wire connection plug burnt. I plan on purchasing the wago 221-2401, cutting the 9 circuit terminal socket and connecting each wire with the wago connectors. The wires on the Hampton bay ceiling fan and light kit all have 18awg written on them. Do I have to use that gauge or can I use 16 awg if I need more wiring to make the connections longer?
Hi! What would the wiring be for ceiling fan and light with 3 way switches at 1 at opposite sides of the room? Is it the same wiring? Subscriber fan! Great info! FYI, The 3 way switches are currently working on light and the pull chain is not turning on the fan, why I don't know, help! Thsnks!!
One hudge important thing, can that box support the weight of a celing fan? Thats a valid question
Most people overlook.
Yes it could support a light but the light only weights 15 lbs at most. Whats the celing fan weight?
65 lbs
Very well done. Very helpful. Thank you
I’m confused. I have a light fan and it has white and black coming from the fixture and I have white, black,red, ground from the ceiling. Can you help on what to connect to what?
How can you tell the difference between neutral and ground wires? My dad tore his ceiling fan out when he was drunk (lol) and it's just been the bare wires for years. One of them is black and the other two are white, so it's not immediately obvious.
If you don’t have a red wire does that mean you can only have the fan working when the light is also on?
Mine has a remote control but I’m not sure how the wall switch interacts with the remote.
I installed a similar fan using the exisiting wall light switch and fan switch and wiring to to the ceiling box and have noticed that when I have the fan running and the lights off (LED), the lights have a very, very faint glow when the room is dark. I know LEDs respond to far lower voltage than incandecent bulbs, but I find this odd. Should I be concerned about the light switch in the wall?
The one thing I expected to be mentioned in this video is to ensure that you have the correct box mounted in the ceiling. A light can be mounted in a regular box, but if you are going to replace a light with a ceiling fan, you need to ensure that the box has a hanging bar. If you mount a fan to a box, even one that is nailed to a joist, the fan can (and often does) work the box loose and you'll have a flying guillotine at some random time in the future.
I replaced the ceiling lights in 2 of the bedrooms in my house with ceiling fans and crawled up into my attic to ensure that those lights had hanger bars attached to the ceiling joist on both ends. Astonishingly, they did, so I was good to mount fans in both the bedrooms.
Well mine was clearly a fan rated box. It’s pretty easy to tell. But your example of the fan often coming loose and becoming a flying guillotine is pretty over the top. Did you know that fan rated boxes weren’t even required by code for fans under 35 pound until fairly recently? There are fans all over this country in boxes that are not fan rated that have been installed for many years and they aren’t just falling out of the ceiling. It is actually incredibly rare for that to happen. Should you use a fan rated box now? Absolutely. But it’s nowhere near the danger that you are suggesting.
@@HowToHomeDIY -- I would say that it depends on how out of wack the balance is (I've seen some that were VERY wobbly) and also if the box is an Old Work box with the tabs holding it in place. I've seen my fair share of fans fly out of ceilings because they were installed by people who didn't know to make sure the box was secure.
All I'm saying is that that's the first thing to look at when replacing a small light fixture. But, hey, if you don't mind ceiling fans smashing into kids during dinner, more power to you.
@@dienekes4364 If the box is modern blue plastic it won't hold up to a fan without support, and I agree with you. Metal boxes have to be attached to a board like the one in this video, and will hold a fan without any issues. The metal boxes with welded mounting brackets are not fan rated and need reinforcement.
I've found fans mounted to the old grey fiberglass boxes just attached to nothing but ceiling joists that have held up for over 25 years. That said, I have always reinforced those and the blues with a 2x4 in the attic. I have found neither blue nor grey without attic access. If I did I would use a retrofit safety bar to replace them. Definitely more work, but worth the effort and expense.
One of my former coworkers had a fan fall from a vaulted ceiling and land on her foot breaking several toes. The second bone of the big toe was shattered and required metal plates, pins and screws to replace it. Not repair, replace, as in fused.
It may not be a guillotine, but the blunt force trauma from a falling fan ain't no joke.
@@ST-0311 -- Yep, "guillotine" was definitely a little bit hyperbolic, but they can still do some decent damage. I just thought that if someone is switching out a light for a fan, it'd be worth mentioning that the first thing you check is to make sure the box is secure enough to take the weight.
I install the same fan, the only problem. What's that after runs about? An hour starts a grinding noise. Any suggestions.
Hmm, have a good general contractor on speed dial for when the fan rips out of the ceiling because there isn't an appropriate fan rated braced box!