RACO Retro-Brace® Ceiling Brace & Box Kit
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- How-to instructions and key features of RACO Retro-Brace® kits. Required to meet code for heavy light fixtures or ceiling fans. Perfect for old work (renovations), and works for new work applications too. The RACO 936, 937, and 939 are complete kits including a steel electrical box, Retro-Brace®, and an INSIDER® NMSC connector.
THE BEST VIDEO TO GET AN UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT HAS TO BE DONE.
HOW IT LOOKS FROM INSIDE THE CEILINGS VIEW. EVEN MY MOTHER UNDERSTOOD & DOES’NT HAVE TO ASK ME MANY QUESTIONS.
Wow, this has got to be the best video out there on this subject, thanks a million❤
I bought this product and had to do the same steps as far as removing the previous, non-fan rated, bracket and box and replacing with this. One suggestion for the product is to have different feet size options. The studs between floors in my house are weird and have small studs on top and bottom, with OSB between. They’re not flush like the 2x4 they demo on, so getting the teeth to dig in was difficult because of the feet. I had to get creative to get it to work, but it still worked out. Near perfect product and by far the best for this type of application.
Jfu
I know it's a little late, but the beginning of the video delineates that there are two products sold in the product line, with one of them having smaller feet for installation on wooden I-beam joists exactly liked you just described.
That’s is all I need. Thank you!!!
This is sooo slick! Thank you for the great video...
3:45 Insertion of intercostal structural member or "brace".
For plaster ceilings the fan needs a rubber isolator between the fan and the bracket to limit how much vibration is transmitted to the floor joists.
please share a link. when i googled, i only saw rubber for computer fans
Vibrating the floor joists? Must be a big fan...
Vibrating the floor joists?
@@danielbishop1164 biggest reason plaster ceilings fail.
@@danielbishop1164 dirty or out of balance blades, wrong electrical box all contribute to vibration in floor joists that can transmit to wood lath and weaken plaster keys/cause cracking in plaster
The Porch I want to install is 36-42 inches between the joist.... Anyway to extend the T-Bar further due to this issue? - Construction is pre-1900
Will this work to replace an existing box on a sloped ceiling? which at this time was connected to a attic rafter brace with a metal bracket attachment
I did this but the box still wiggles... the snap on thing for the brace slides on the brace.
And if theres insulation + vapour barrier?
What if my hole location is not centered between the two joists? That is, will the RACO 936 still work for me if my outlet box won't be attached to the middle portion of the RACO brace?
It should work as long as you have about an inch from the face of your joist to the edge of your hole. Just make sure the screw end of the bar is on the joist farther from the hole.
Can these be used at an angle? I have a rectangular light fixture that needs to go over a sink that faces the corner of the room :/
The light fixture may have a bracket that can be adjusted to rotate/align it somewhat
When you tighten the box to the brace...it is supposed to tighten enough to keep the box from being able to sway around the bar? I'm not achieving this, its like I need a spacer or something. Anyone?
Yeah...! The Brace "ground screw" is screw/connect to the bean or joist...???!!!
Is this nec approve ?
this doesn't appear to work when the new work box was attached to the side of a joist during construction. it looks like your electrical box won't go flush against the joist so it's oriented above the hole in the ceiling.
Then use a fan box with integrated lag bolts on the side.
It clearly states in the video to see other options if attached to a joist.
Try an Arlington FSB 1432 box if on side of joist
3:45
I know, right ?
Sickkkkk
Where did all the sudden these electrical cables come from when you did not install them because they will not be there we all know that
I have a better way for I joists, I ripped a 2x4 to 3 inches wide ( easier to fit through the hole) test fit it on top of the lips (cut the length so it's snug) of the eye joist..When you are satisfied it's snug take it back out and lather the ends up with PL Premium construction adhesive. Now stick it back through the opening on the I joists. Strong as hell and only cost is a piece of scrap lumber and some adhesive.
This sounds like some bad Jerry rigging advice.
I don't think "hell" is all that strong when Heaven is around.
@@georgekuh6500 I can hang off it...200lbs. No ceiling fan or light fixtures will bring it down.