Another informative video! I appreciate the bluntness and the approach. Thank you. This has been quite a year for printer companies, and it's interesting to see the different directions each of the companies are going.
The main reason I don't use Chitubox or any of the proprietary slicing software, I perfer Lychee, which has all the features you will ever need for Resin printing! I have the Saturn 3 12k and the Anycubic Ms5 12k printers and Lychee sliced prints are vertually flawless.
@@fieldrecordstalent I can't say for sure i dont have the Mars 5. Im sure if can't read it at the moment Lychee will update their software soon so that it can!.Lychee is good about that.
I got the Saturn 4 Ultra a little while back. I do like it. The only failures I’ve had were due to me. I did print one of those build plate hangers that allow the plate to drain. I went with a version that semi-permanently attaches to the plate. This allows for a quicker transition and it gives a much better grip for the plate overall.
@@carlosdasilva9325 I found mine on Maker World (or the Bambu Handy app if you have a Bambu printer). I just searched “Saturn 4 Ultra” and it was one of the early listings. Everyone calls them something different so searching for build plate hanger may or may not give you the results.
I just double checked and the newest Lychee Slicer has the Mars 5/5 Ultra and both support AA. I can send you a test GOO file if you're interested in testing the result. We haven't gotten the Chitubox 2.0 Beta for Linux, so I can't check there, yet.
@@FauxHammer It's the standard GCODE with levels at 1 (none), 2, 3, or 4. - Dang can't send the file I chose, too big for normal Discord ... Let me slice something smaller.
I haven't got the Printer here anymore to test it and I'm away for a week tomorrow. I'll update the description to advise I've not had chance to check in Lychee. and wil have a go when I;m back. But Elegoo have since confirmed it;s not supported on these printers?
Great video, very informative particularly as I'm looking to invest in a few more printers. Not tested it, but Lychee has the options for AA for the Mars 5...
Thanks brother!!! Are you in Essen this week? Why am I messaging you that here. I’ll text you. And yeah sorry. Thanks man. I know the setting is available but one of the super techy guys has confirmed it’s an issue with the .goo format. It’s a pity as Chitubox will be getting shut for not putting the setting there and Lychee will get it when it bugs out and can even make your slice file bigger than will be allowed in a FaT32 usb drive. It’s Elegoo’s .goo format and it needs sorting imo.
@@firecrusades3397 oh sorry, some one else did it and said it worked. But I haven’t had time to crack out the printer from storage with all the other videos coming out. J3D tech did a good video on the issue from AA on these machines
@ i’m thinking about getting my very first printer, and am mainly looking to print krieg warhammer models, and trench crusade models. the price point on the mars 5 just feels absolutely unbeatable, i would want to avoid layer lines of course but if it’s something that could be possibly fixed in the future i don’t know how to justify the extra $100 for the mars 5 elite . having trouble deciding and only have until the 26th at 3am (sale ends) could you link me the vid you’re referring to? it looked like the one i found came out after yours. let me know what you think, thanks!
Discovered your channel two days ago, got way too much hyped up, and ordered a cheap second hand Mars 3 Pro. Now waiting to test it, but your video confirms the not-so-great evolution of Mars 4 and 5.
Mate, I loved the Mars 3 pro and I still think it stands up today!!! If you want minis. Dial in your resin (I have show to print minis video on that) then enable antiailiasing and image blur. Set both of them settings to 2 and you will have decent smooth sharp prints
@@FauxHammer Already binge watching your beginner playlist, I'm almost looking forward my first dumb mistakes ^^ Thanks for the advice, right now I'm mostly focussing on the ventilation and a proper respirator.
It's been a week since I received it, and the results are amazing! Of course I've got a few fails and a microscope can reveal some layer lines, but my DM was amazed by the details in our last D&D session. :D
I hate the smooth build plate sides. Bought a roll of 1" wide grip tape as a easy fix, but I shouldn't have to. Machine some cutouts into it so it's got SOME purchase with the inevitable resin on the gloves when you remove it. Only thing I hate about the 5 Ultra which is exactly the same as this.
Part of why I'm waiting things out at the moment, even though I'm planning to add a "Max" class to my collection that can do prints in an under 30 micron resolution (tor things like larger model kit parts that need a build area with a 300mm diagonal). The market needs a true disruption like the BambuLab printers have done for the filament segment.
I’m completely happy with my Mars 4 Ultra. I don’t see any need for AA, the prints from the M4U are sharp with no obvious layer lines (I use a 0.025mm layer height). Elegoo is going to have to release something pretty damn impressive to get me to upgrade.
Ultra has both built-in (digital) AA that you are not using, and analog "AA" (frosty film doing blur even where it is not needed) that is from the factory. Unless you swapped to normal FEP already 🤔
I'm not familiar with resin printers, but, aren't the images from that goo format somehow extractable as simple image files, as it used to be in previous formats? If yes, then it is also likely that it's possible to create a quick "antialias me" small app so you can drag and drop, preview how strong you want it to blend the edges, etc.. Do you guys know what's stopping this form happening?
No antialiasing in the LCD on a hardware level means it has only two levels on and off per pixel not 256. More area for pixels simpler electronic per pixels but 4k 35 um sharp is not enough to get rid of jagged edges.
I like the GKtwo build plate, it has a skirt and a gutter around the edge. I am thinking about making a skirt around the plate in this. One issue though is this will displace more resin and thus might leak idk might work, anyone tried?
i dont get it. why miss out AA? you have the option available for the mars 4 max in chitu basic 2.2. and that build plate...whyyy god whyyyyy... this will not please the resin gods. anyways thankyou for another great informative review
I don't disagree on the USB port, I can well see how the back is a pain (I'm to be convinced about the front too, tbh, maybe on the side at the front would be my own personal preference if I had one). I'm just bemused as to why it's a big deal for anyone really, as I've always just plugged a usb extension cable in so I can have usb stick wherever I want. The only place I can see there being any real drawback is on the side, as even an extension cable plugged in here is going to (slightly) limit how close you can place printers in a print farm.
I have the elegoo Mars 4 and for some reason it’s like the most forgotten printer ever, whenever I look for advice it’s always about the dlp or other Mars 4 adjacent stuff, I guess because like you mentioned, the plus was just as cheap. I got it because the 3 was so well reviewed and Because I had a small space for it. I also got the wash and cure that’s all in one for the same reason. The magnetic spinner in the wash tank broke within 3 weeks of minimal use so now I just use the tank manually (shake it) And I bought a better uv lamp so I rarely use that at all. When I received my Mars 4 there was a hole in the pre installed fep, which led to a leak. I didn’t notice right away as I didn’t expect the brand new printer to leak Since there’s a hole RIGHT TO THE MOTOR resin got in there. Had to take the whole thing apart, clean it, relive the rod etc. Also because of this, the thumbscrews got stuck in the printer not long after. Elegoo doesn’t seem to have great QC tbh. Also, I preordered the heater and didn’t realise they’d expect me to cut a hole in the casing for this 😭🤣
G'day ol son.....another great vid, and for me very important....im looking for a smaller resin printer, and im setting up for a mostly Elegoo ecosystem of both resin and FDM printers, and was looking at the Mars 5, But now im bummed. I use AA on my Nova3d Whale 2 via Lychee Slicer, and enjoy the results i get from adjusting AA on various prints. But not having any choice is straight not right, its like having an FDM printer that you cant change nozzel size on, or limited on only 2 or 3 Layer heights to choose from. Making fine detail or any detail disapper. Cheers Sir from OIASS'ed M8 Downunder🙃
Another great review. I’m hoping for a Jupiter upgrade. I still love mine , just wishing it had some more features and was like a jumbo Saturn because the speed and detail are great on that
I have been looking for the last live stream but I can't find the video. Where did it go? Anyways, thanks so much for the support @ fauxhammer. I couldn't believe you actually saw my question lol. I like the Reflex RS but I struggle a lot to pull the trigger on it due to the non-perforated plate and resin getting stuck on the top. I like that it is bigger build volume but I am down to choose between the RS combo plus the extra purchase of the heated vat vs the Reflex and cure station as I already have the uniformation Ultrasonic cleaner. I remember you seemed to prefer the regular Reflex better. Keep up the great work and thanks again!
Thanks mate. I took it down for 2 reasons. 1 as soon as I was done I was off to bed and I didn’t want to wake up to another Saturday with complaints And 2 at one point I switch my browser over and it showed my Google homepage which had all my fave pron site listed. It’s not weird stuff but it’s still like. My business. Anyway. I have a video coming out to explain the differences. But that’s no getting delayed because I need to completely rewrite my planned follow up video due to all this HeyGears drama first. Yay But personally I prefer the RS for the extra space on the plate. Print quality is the same on both and whilst they reflex works with lore HeyGears trains. I’m still optimistic they’ll release more materials at some point uk being similar stuff to the RS The reflex has slightly better build quality in that it’s all metal but the RS is still so much better than all the other brands that it matters little to me that the reflex is a bit better The lost features are a bigger display. A clip to let the resin drop before you lift it out the printer. And a mechanical sluice gate that allows the resin flow into the vat that works less often than it should. As for the perforated plate. The benefit here is to allow resin pressure to lower faster, which avoids early layer compression issues but the RS must just compensate for this with longer wait time and its pressure sensors because I’ve never had an issue
@@FauxHammer Thanks so much for the explanation. I really appreciate it. Hopefully all this drama is left behind sooner than later. you videos are awesome and I usually put them on repeat as I work lol. Honestly, I wouldn't change anything since haters are gonna hate. You do your thing. We love your videos. Now, to order the RS combo. Cheers!
I recently tried Chitu 2. Constant crashes and doesn't want to connect to my Saturn 3 Ultra. Reverted to the old Chitu....... everything works perfectly. If they fix that, I might go to Chitu 2 again. But not until they fix a few things.
I took my little Dremel and I grinded few lines on the side of the nice smooth area so I would have some type of grip and it's working awesome sir if you want pass my idea on to others sir
Yeah mate, good idea. Someone else said girl tape works. But I see my job to review them as I see them, call Elegoo out because they should be solving this problem. You shouldn’t even have to DIY a solution right? Many people won’t have a dremel. Others may not want a whole roll of tape just for 2 strips. As I said, I’ll try to mention this in future content. Thanks for the tip!
It still feels like resin printers haven't hit that sweet spot in regards to the beginner user friendly printer. The usability issues with the grip on the build plate, the gap in the build plate, no spout, UI design; it's like this is the 5 gen, these things shouldn't cost much and save your users so much sanity. Actual auto levelling, exposure range finder and now apparently auto aliasing are the things to go for. I feel like if you get these things right on a 200 USD entry resin mini printer you make bank. Go back to 50 micron resolution; it's the user experience that matters here. I'm looking at these resin printers as a complete novice with just an A1 Mini and it seems so much better, despite theoretically FDM printers being the more complex ones.
Just got this printer. 3 failed prints. Prints get stuck to the FEP. Any suggestions? It says the bed auto levels out the box.. can I level it myself or no?
In regards to recommending printers for beginners, I'm, surpried that DLP printers are not mentioned more, especially as the Mars 4 DLP is so cheap now. Is it just the smaller build volume that make DLP printers less desireable or am I missing something else?
2:00 6,6 inch 4K display with no anti-aliasing was the entry level 4 years ago. For almost this exact amount of money I would rather go with the Photon Mono 4. The non automatic 4 bolt leveling looks less of a hassle than this "automatic" leveling method. I think the green lid looks good and the better transparency makes it more practical than the black one. I believe sharpness comes from higher display contrast and low beam angle variance. But I can't wait for the tech insider content on this matter.
I am reviewing the Mono 4 now. and yeah I wanted to say it is better, but the Sharpness of the display on the machine is very poor, most likely due to the Matrix LED array. I'll have my Video up ASAP. Gimmie a week or 2, I have so many videos in the Queue right now
and I just bought Elegoo ... @2:30 all usb ports should be using patch leads anyhow , who wants to wear out the main connection port ... @12:00 AA is just a software feature , its just being paywalled for the .goo format
How important is image blur and AA really ? Most use case for these printers is warhammer prints, doesn't AA and blur reduce and muddy details anyway? Just ordered the mars 4 (at a very very good price - same price as mars 5 base model), hoping AA isn't important, or going for the anycubic mono 4 may have been a better option despite the lack of internal USB port
what all do i need to buy with one of these printers? because it seems like it does not come with everything needed to run for example resin/heater unless im reading the thing wrong on website. curious because my fdm printer came with everything needed to work and a small sample of pla
That un-grippable build plate design is truly baffling. How could nobody notice that after using the thing for even 5 minutes? Or just... looking at it?
You would think in this time as consumers the manufacturers would release each machines data the same way a standard format As there customers we need to push for clarity so just like we compare our phones we can with the modem 3d printers The question is how do you go about doing it and what standard information do we need??
Yes!!! Yes!! That is a good question. And what it will take is a brand to figure that out. Deliver it and succeed in the marketplace for anyone to care enough to follow suit Right now it’s. “Our car has more horsepower” hoping everyone will believe more horsepower is better.
If you don’t mind some later and voxel lines, no probably not at all. And if they are basic shakes. You can easily sand them. For more detailed models like minis, or jewellery . It would be a nightmare to sand
There’s a lot of big difference. Far too tuch for me to explain here Check out “resin vs fdm” on UA-cam and watch a few videos. I haven’t done one myself
i´m pretty much set on buying this printer as my first one what i don´t fully understand: what do i have to expect from the not-anti-aliasing? does this happen every time? on particular shapes? bad .stl?
You will get layer lines no matter what, these are the lines which are due to layers and are visible on large round or smooth flat surface, the are like stairsteps. On the perpendicular or horizontal plane, you can also get voxel lines, which is the difference between pixels, visible around certain curvatures. Antiailiasing, smoothes those second ones.
Probbaly fair, watching this back, 2 minute sof intro on a 10 minute video was maybe a bit long, but I wanted to be more helpful for beginners up front as I expected it was those people who looked at this machine most.
Great video, I think though I am one of many that cannot get their head around going back to 4k. I guess I am one of those sold on K rating to an extent. Also why the secretiveness about the 3d printer guy who is working with you. Everyone knows it is the guy who designed the Athena printer 😂😂😂. Big bombshell if I am wrong 😬😬
@@FauxHammer oooooo are we gonna see a wargamer resin printer. Hopefully not locked to only war gamer resin. As in my opinion if you like that. You are a massive sell out 😜😜😜
Ah balls, im waiting on delivery of mine... there were no reviews so I assumed they had some AA functions :( hopefully elegoo update the slicer compatibility later on. would the manual work around of the 4 work with the 5 at all? oh and also, am i tied to chitu? can i use lychee at all? as ive been messing around with lychee while waiting for the printer being ready for shipping and I'm kind of used to it now
Waiting on mine at the moment as well and typically use Lychee. I just checked and Lychee already supports the Mars 5. Plus it does have anti-aliasing settings when it comes to slicing your files
@@comhrac54 yeah, I booted up lychee to prep some files (Printer came fine, but a surprise bill means i have to wait till next month to buy my supplies in order to print :/, more time to learn blender haha), and noticed it was already supported with AA :) happy panda dance :) I cant wait to get some models printed.
Is there a reason you aren't using grip tape on the build plate to make it more grippy? I mean I'm not a fan either but I've never dropped it once I slapped some grip tape on there.
I always review the printers as they come. Someone suggested this to me but the video was already recorded before that tip. It’s a good tip If I were to say… ooh but you can use grip tape. I’m playing down an issue caused by a design that shouldn’t have this issue…
I want the highest quality at the lowest price. I want the Saturn 5 Ultra (I know doesn't exist) at $200.00! I'm tired of hearing about K BTW. I want to hear about pixel size and layer thickness.
Funny you say this, I just broke another bolt for the vat and have sent back to Amazon (lucky it was the las day before I could return) I’ve got the 5 arriving tomorrow
I've watched so many of your videos and my #1. It's sad that elegoo printers are so much more user friendly but ive had nothing but issues with my s4u to the point I've had to replace the motherboard 3 weeks in and issues with the sensors and the scrappy build plate and the customer service is slow and has destroyed any chance ill buying another printer from them and I really want to get another printer 😢.
That build plate is the real deal breaker for me. Removing the build plate without dripping resin everywhere and cleaning the build plate is the worst part, that IPA gets filthy in no time, and I have a photon m3 which is very simple by comparison
Manufactures need to focus on ease of use like Bambu has done for FDM. most resin printers are terrible and gives zero consideration about the mess that is resin, as seen in the stupid build plate here. I rather not have auto leveling if someone can come up with a design that allows resin to just slop off. And something that allows the vat to be drained and cleaned easily
@Donbro to be fair if it's this AA thing that's the biggest bug bear of the printer I'm ok with that, not even sure I had it on for my other printers, pretty new to resin printing
i was wondering if anybody can give me some advice please? i have been looking at getting the saturn 4 ultra but i am wondering if i should be looking at any other 3d printers for simlar price range? i had the mars 5 ultra (my first printer) but found out pretty fast i wished i had gone for a bigger build volume (budget is around 500 but in amazon vouchers so i couldent spend the money on pointless stuff)
@FauxHammer oh I did have one more question I am in the UK also (not sure if this would matter) but what resin would you say if the best/easiest to use for the saturn 4 ultra/in general
@@NoMercyFtw when I grab the top bit with my bare hands. I have more grip than with gloves on. But I have really coarse fingertips. I often rub paint off minis just by handling them. So I have worse grip on the top of this plate with gloves. I actually dropped my Saturn 4 ultra plate in the screen
That Anti Aliasing is so infuriating, I had so many issues with it on my Saturn 3 Ultra, turning many a resin vat into lasagna, finally got to return it today. GKTwo all the way. :D
@@FauxHammer Thank you for the advice, goo was indeed worse than ctb. But the difference was in goo it happened every time and in ctb only like 1 out of 4 to 5 times. It made me so tense I hated to use the printer. :(
As always, you do a good job weighing the pros and cons. But... just because everyone calls it auto-leveling does not make it alright. So, perhaps it's time to allow your viewers to actually give Elegoo - and everyone else - crap over this? Or, you could do it?;)
ELE comes from the word electronic, which means open-source electronic. GOO comes from the word googol, meaning the 100th power of 10. The written form is 1 followed by 100 zeros, referring to the huge amount of structural models brought by 3D printers. Elegoo implies the combination of open-source electronics and structures that creates everything.
OMG they put the same design of the build plate from Saturn 4.... nope nope NOPE. Also why bother with that janky sprung "self-leveling "(sic) system I have leveled my saturn 3 exactly twice in 12 months and my only fails have been from poor supports. guess i won't be getting a new printer for Christmas.
I don't get you brother. I've been using Saturn 4 Ultra since it came out and the only fails I got were due poor supports or bad resin calibration on my side.
A few people have received bad beds that can’t seem to get level. Most have been lucky, but because you can’t adjust it. You’re stuck dealing with support and testing until you get sent another bed you need to wait for. I get why people are pissed
Soo... you have issue with shitubox slicer and not printer itself? So if you had AA on it it would be another good elegoo device? Hardly device issue, more like "software" issue. Sure elegoo should polish .goo format but features missing from software which not everyone uses shouldnt impact general overview of device itself
Antialiasing is fundamentally btoken on chitu based printers. When a row of pixels has too much data, the printer gets confused and exposes the entire row instead of just the specified pixels to the specified light level. Because of this, elegoo has disabled AA on some of their newer printers.
What? They work in combination. You can't use AA on this printer. Doesn't matter whether it's the software's fault or the hardware's. I'm not sure how this is hard to understand.
I think the other commenters said it better than I could. AA is important to many people as a method of reducing voxel and layers lines. And Co suffering this printer is more dimensionally accurate than the Mars 5 it is a somewhat crippling lack of a feature for some people. But the issue it seems is not Chitubox. Thanks to comments from people who professionally test resin printers and even support the manufacture of them. It is the .goo format which is the issue here and has many bugs And since .goo is a proprietary Elegoo format and the only format this printer is able to handle. Yes. It’s an issue with the machine
@@FauxHammer since i don't have the Mars 5 i can't actually print a file from Lychee with and without smoothing but the same mini with smoothing is 27.5 mb and without is 15.8 mb so the software is altering the file somewhat
@@stephenpointon yeah I’ve seen that and that “massive file size” was an issue with the last gen .goo files. As someone who is probably more clued up than anyone about 3D printing said in another comment .goo incredibly prone to glitching with AA enabled. In my case. It makes the files so big sometimes that they are above the file size limit of the fat32 formatted usb drives we use (limit is just under 4gb)
What is it with Chinese companies and serif fonts? No sane person uses serif fonts as screen fonts anymore, especially on low-res displays. And why do they constantly mix serif and sans serif fonts? It makes absolutely no sense. It's harder to read and just looks awful and unprofessional.
@@FauxHammer I guess that's sarcasm, but this stuff really triggers my OCD - I'm a bit of a stickler for UX and readability. Elegoo clearly invests some time and money in consistent product design and corporate identity (unlike, say, Sovol - Sovol makes decent stuff, and I love their commitment to open source, but not even their company logo is consistent), so this really annoys me. Probably a lot more than it should...
@@wsippel no. I’m a font stickler too. Inconsistency is something I should have seen and digital serif in 2024 is kinda daft. It’s used for infrequent impactful attention markers only, whatever suits the theme of the text. So no. I agree!
Maybe they are using surplus boards with limited CPU and RAM for "basic" printers. Or they are just trolling us 🙄 With 0 upgrades to Mars 4 firmware to fix AA and/or GOO format, or occasional firmware erases if USB memory is connected when powering up *and* no firmware on their site to fix it (can find a link from Reddit), I'd go with both 😔 M4 _is_ better than _2K_ printers, but it might be two Elegoo printers for us at the same time: the first and the last 😅
AA just isnt deal breaker, especially for a beginner. Put your microscope away. 😂 I've printed miniatures with the mars5 ultra, no AA, with no problems. The biggest issue in this ecosystem is Chitubox. What a glitchy and in-efficient piece of software that is.
It isn’t for some is for others. On Eid the most common comments I get is how do I remove layer lines. The issue here is they the .goo format is very immature and Elegoo are sticking by it. But this is a basic feature of older printers and it removes the option here. An option I feel people would want. And if this printer did it. Because it’s so god damn sharp, even better than the Mars 5 ultra. It would be one of the best machines in the market. Chitubox is trashy I agree, lychee can introduce slicing issues on machines. Tango has a crappy Ui. Lots to sort in all the slicers
@@FauxHammer the slicers are terrible really yeah. But on AA, I just printed some miniatures 2 days ago and seriously, what layer lines? If anyone is being that particular over the surface then they are probably going to be finishing it with paint or something. Maybe I'm wrong but I cant think of anything that would need the prints to be any better fresh off the bed. Again, thinking of beginners mainly. I'm just making some concept models of solar carports for a company and there are some flat surfaces that might show some lines, barely, but it will be finished with paint etc, because it's a high end product.
@@nate-plays it may not matter to you, it may be the train you use. If you are happy with what you get. Brilliant! But many aren’t. I’m not. I airbrush. I drybrush, I wash. And all of these techniques make layers stick out like a sore thumb. I can removed that in one swoop with AA
Hi Ross! Thanks again for mentioning my channel again. Tell me about your experience tunning the screws of the build plate! ❤️
Will do mate. Can we catch up on another platform? Discord or something? We need to Chat about FormNext anyway apparently?
I followed you on X, follow back and drop me a message mate
@@FauxHammerJust did! Sure! FormNext yeigh!
What is this, a crossover episode?
Another informative video! I appreciate the bluntness and the approach. Thank you. This has been quite a year for printer companies, and it's interesting to see the different directions each of the companies are going.
Very welcome!
The main reason I don't use Chitubox or any of the proprietary slicing software, I perfer Lychee, which has all the features you will ever need for Resin printing! I have the Saturn 3 12k and the Anycubic Ms5 12k printers and Lychee sliced prints are vertually flawless.
yes but does lychee export to a file format mars 5 can read I heard its not reading .goo
@@fieldrecordstalent I can't say for sure i dont have the Mars 5. Im sure if can't read it at the moment Lychee will update their software soon so that it can!.Lychee is good about that.
@@fieldrecordstalent yes it exports .goo
I got the Saturn 4 Ultra a little while back. I do like it. The only failures I’ve had were due to me. I did print one of those build plate hangers that allow the plate to drain. I went with a version that semi-permanently attaches to the plate. This allows for a quicker transition and it gives a much better grip for the plate overall.
hey are you able to point me to the right direction so I can get that hanger too? Thanks
@@carlosdasilva9325 I found mine on Maker World (or the Bambu Handy app if you have a Bambu printer). I just searched “Saturn 4 Ultra” and it was one of the early listings. Everyone calls them something different so searching for build plate hanger may or may not give you the results.
One day they and many other manufactures will finally give us a good God damn pouring spout!
It seems impossible. But whyyyyyy! Whyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!
I just double checked and the newest Lychee Slicer has the Mars 5/5 Ultra and both support AA. I can send you a test GOO file if you're interested in testing the result. We haven't gotten the Chitubox 2.0 Beta for Linux, so I can't check there, yet.
I haven't got it to hand anymore but yeah that would be a good test. I should have considered Lycheee, but I don't know how their AA settings work
@@FauxHammerI use Lychee all the time. The company has a UA-cam and Discord you could check out
@@FauxHammer It's the standard GCODE with levels at 1 (none), 2, 3, or 4. - Dang can't send the file I chose, too big for normal Discord ... Let me slice something smaller.
I haven't got the Printer here anymore to test it and I'm away for a week tomorrow. I'll update the description to advise I've not had chance to check in Lychee. and wil have a go when I;m back.
But Elegoo have since confirmed it;s not supported on these printers?
@@FauxHammer Right - sorry, I misunderstood your comment and thought that you meant Lychee - D'OH! 😜
3 days into using mine and after 2 fails(my failures, not the machines) i absolutely love it
Great video, very informative particularly as I'm looking to invest in a few more printers. Not tested it, but Lychee has the options for AA for the Mars 5...
Thanks brother!!! Are you in Essen this week? Why am I messaging you that here. I’ll text you.
And yeah sorry. Thanks man. I know the setting is available but one of the super techy guys has confirmed it’s an issue with the .goo format.
It’s a pity as Chitubox will be getting shut for not putting the setting there and Lychee will get it when it bugs out and can even make your slice file bigger than will be allowed in a FaT32 usb drive.
It’s Elegoo’s .goo format and it needs sorting imo.
Did you test it yet?
@@FauxHammer its been over a month man wheres your findings
@@firecrusades3397 oh sorry, some one else did it and said it worked. But I haven’t had time to crack out the printer from storage with all the other videos coming out.
J3D tech did a good video on the issue from AA on these machines
@ i’m thinking about getting my very first printer, and am mainly looking to print krieg warhammer models, and trench crusade models. the price point on the mars 5 just feels absolutely unbeatable, i would want to avoid layer lines of course but if it’s something that could be possibly fixed in the future i don’t know how to justify the extra $100 for the mars 5 elite . having trouble deciding and only have until the 26th at 3am (sale ends)
could you link me the vid you’re referring to? it looked like the one i found came out after yours. let me know what you think, thanks!
Update: AA is now available in Chitubox and Lychee
AA isn't available in Chitubox Basic V2.2 for Elegoo Mars 5. What version are you using?
@@Archenuh 2.2. Slice settings/Advance/Anti Aliasing level
@@ThePCPitChannel Missing in my Chitubox Basic.
@@Archenuh Weird. I’m using basic too
Did they make the update for the printer to fixing the antialiasing ratio yet?
Discovered your channel two days ago, got way too much hyped up, and ordered a cheap second hand Mars 3 Pro.
Now waiting to test it, but your video confirms the not-so-great evolution of Mars 4 and 5.
Mate, I loved the Mars 3 pro and I still think it stands up today!!!
If you want minis. Dial in your resin (I have show to print minis video on that) then enable antiailiasing and image blur. Set both of them settings to 2 and you will have decent smooth sharp prints
@@FauxHammer Already binge watching your beginner playlist, I'm almost looking forward my first dumb mistakes ^^
Thanks for the advice, right now I'm mostly focussing on the ventilation and a proper respirator.
@@1042x768thanks man.
I think most people get an enclosure, like a hydroponics grow tent.
I have the mars 3 pro, it's great for printing minis and it's easy to maintain
It's been a week since I received it, and the results are amazing!
Of course I've got a few fails and a microscope can reveal some layer lines, but my DM was amazed by the details in our last D&D session. :D
I hate the smooth build plate sides.
Bought a roll of 1" wide grip tape as a easy fix, but I shouldn't have to.
Machine some cutouts into it so it's got SOME purchase with the inevitable resin on the gloves when you remove it.
Only thing I hate about the 5 Ultra which is exactly the same as this.
Yeah, exactly my thought. It’s an easy fix. That you shouldn’t need to do…
Just got my Mars 5. There's a version of Chitubox with AA on the thumb drive shipped with the printer. Just need to disable the automatic updates.
Now try it? See what the file size is like. And hope it doesn’t fail. If you can. Let me know please
update on this?
Part of why I'm waiting things out at the moment, even though I'm planning to add a "Max" class to my collection that can do prints in an under 30 micron resolution (tor things like larger model kit parts that need a build area with a 300mm diagonal).
The market needs a true disruption like the BambuLab printers have done for the filament segment.
I have been using Filament printers but my wife decided to give me this exact resin printer, Mars 5 so I'll try it and see if it does a good job
I’m completely happy with my Mars 4 Ultra. I don’t see any need for AA, the prints from the M4U are sharp with no obvious layer lines (I use a 0.025mm layer height). Elegoo is going to have to release something pretty damn impressive to get me to upgrade.
Ultra has both built-in (digital) AA that you are not using, and analog "AA" (frosty film doing blur even where it is not needed) that is from the factory. Unless you swapped to normal FEP already 🤔
I'm not familiar with resin printers, but, aren't the images from that goo format somehow extractable as simple image files, as it used to be in previous formats? If yes, then it is also likely that it's possible to create a quick "antialias me" small app so you can drag and drop, preview how strong you want it to blend the edges, etc..
Do you guys know what's stopping this form happening?
Looking into a bundle for the 5...the AA is a slicer software issue? Can you only use 1 slicer program to use the 5 or Elegoo machines?
2:29 this is the perfect combination of diplomatic and snarky 😂
No antialiasing in the LCD on a hardware level means it has only two levels on and off per pixel not 256. More area for pixels simpler electronic per pixels but 4k 35 um sharp is not enough to get rid of jagged edges.
Looks interesting. What do you use for air-filtration? My Girlfriend wants to start with resin but we dont know how to safely print in our home.
Great video! I have the 4 Ultra but use Lychee. No network capability yet, which I am big on, but no issues using the USB method until they update.
thank you for the review! When is the comparison video coming? Can’t wait 🥹
I like the GKtwo build plate, it has a skirt and a gutter around the edge.
I am thinking about making a skirt around the plate in this. One issue though is this will displace more resin and thus might leak idk might work, anyone tried?
I welcome all your vids. They always answer questions that I have.
Lol. I'm still happy with my Mars 2 Pro and Saturn 2. Stopped upgrading Chitubox as it started getting problematic.
i dont get it. why miss out AA? you have the option available for the mars 4 max in chitu basic 2.2.
and that build plate...whyyy god whyyyyy... this will not please the resin gods.
anyways thankyou for another great informative review
I don't disagree on the USB port, I can well see how the back is a pain (I'm to be convinced about the front too, tbh, maybe on the side at the front would be my own personal preference if I had one).
I'm just bemused as to why it's a big deal for anyone really, as I've always just plugged a usb extension cable in so I can have usb stick wherever I want. The only place I can see there being any real drawback is on the side, as even an extension cable plugged in here is going to (slightly) limit how close you can place printers in a print farm.
Didn't the Mars 4 come out like a year ago??? what do you mean there's a mars 5 already
I have the elegoo Mars 4 and for some reason it’s like the most forgotten printer ever, whenever I look for advice it’s always about the dlp or other Mars 4 adjacent stuff, I guess because like you mentioned, the plus was just as cheap.
I got it because the 3 was so well reviewed and Because I had a small space for it.
I also got the wash and cure that’s all in one for the same reason.
The magnetic spinner in the wash tank broke within 3 weeks of minimal use so now I just use the tank manually (shake it)
And I bought a better uv lamp so I rarely use that at all.
When I received my Mars 4 there was a hole in the pre installed fep, which led to a leak.
I didn’t notice right away as I didn’t expect the brand new printer to leak
Since there’s a hole RIGHT TO THE MOTOR resin got in there.
Had to take the whole thing apart, clean it, relive the rod etc.
Also because of this, the thumbscrews got stuck in the printer not long after.
Elegoo doesn’t seem to have great QC tbh.
Also, I preordered the heater and didn’t realise they’d expect me to cut a hole in the casing for this 😭🤣
G'day ol son.....another great vid, and for me very important....im looking for a smaller resin printer, and im setting up for a mostly Elegoo ecosystem of both resin and FDM printers, and was looking at the Mars 5, But now im bummed. I use AA on my Nova3d Whale 2 via Lychee Slicer, and enjoy the results i get from adjusting AA on various prints. But not having any choice is straight not right, its like having an FDM printer that you cant change nozzel size on, or limited on only 2 or 3 Layer heights to choose from. Making fine detail or any detail disapper. Cheers Sir from OIASS'ed M8 Downunder🙃
As always, thank you for this review!
My pleasure!
Another great review. I’m hoping for a Jupiter upgrade. I still love mine , just wishing it had some more features and was like a jumbo Saturn because the speed and detail are great on that
I love my Mars 5 so far, I haven’t even looked for the AA setting if I’m honest
I have been looking for the last live stream but I can't find the video. Where did it go? Anyways, thanks so much for the support @ fauxhammer. I couldn't believe you actually saw my question lol. I like the Reflex RS but I struggle a lot to pull the trigger on it due to the non-perforated plate and resin getting stuck on the top. I like that it is bigger build volume but I am down to choose between the RS combo plus the extra purchase of the heated vat vs the Reflex and cure station as I already have the uniformation Ultrasonic cleaner. I remember you seemed to prefer the regular Reflex better. Keep up the great work and thanks again!
Thanks mate. I took it down for 2 reasons. 1 as soon as I was done I was off to bed and I didn’t want to wake up to another Saturday with complaints
And 2 at one point I switch my browser over and it showed my Google homepage which had all my fave pron site listed. It’s not weird stuff but it’s still like. My business.
Anyway. I have a video coming out to explain the differences. But that’s no getting delayed because I need to completely rewrite my planned follow up video due to all this HeyGears drama first. Yay
But personally I prefer the RS for the extra space on the plate. Print quality is the same on both and whilst they reflex works with lore HeyGears trains. I’m still optimistic they’ll release more materials at some point uk being similar stuff to the RS
The reflex has slightly better build quality in that it’s all metal but the RS is still so much better than all the other brands that it matters little to me that the reflex is a bit better
The lost features are a bigger display. A clip to let the resin drop before you lift it out the printer. And a mechanical sluice gate that allows the resin flow into the vat that works less often than it should.
As for the perforated plate. The benefit here is to allow resin pressure to lower faster, which avoids early layer compression issues but the RS must just compensate for this with longer wait time and its pressure sensors because I’ve never had an issue
@@FauxHammer Thanks so much for the explanation. I really appreciate it. Hopefully all this drama is left behind sooner than later. you videos are awesome and I usually put them on repeat as I work lol. Honestly, I wouldn't change anything since haters are gonna hate.
You do your thing. We love your videos. Now, to order the RS combo. Cheers!
@@zeihunter1569 thanks brother! But please use my link and discount code first lol 🙏
@@FauxHammer Will do! lol take care brother!
@@zeihunter1569 you too
I recently tried Chitu 2. Constant crashes and doesn't want to connect to my Saturn 3 Ultra. Reverted to the old Chitu....... everything works perfectly. If they fix that, I might go to Chitu 2 again. But not until they fix a few things.
I took my little Dremel and I grinded few lines on the side of the nice smooth area so I would have some type of grip and it's working awesome sir if you want pass my idea on to others sir
Yeah mate, good idea. Someone else said girl tape works.
But I see my job to review them as I see them, call Elegoo out because they should be solving this problem. You shouldn’t even have to DIY a solution right?
Many people won’t have a dremel. Others may not want a whole roll of tape just for 2 strips.
As I said, I’ll try to mention this in future content. Thanks for the tip!
It still feels like resin printers haven't hit that sweet spot in regards to the beginner user friendly printer. The usability issues with the grip on the build plate, the gap in the build plate, no spout, UI design; it's like this is the 5 gen, these things shouldn't cost much and save your users so much sanity. Actual auto levelling, exposure range finder and now apparently auto aliasing are the things to go for. I feel like if you get these things right on a 200 USD entry resin mini printer you make bank. Go back to 50 micron resolution; it's the user experience that matters here.
I'm looking at these resin printers as a complete novice with just an A1 Mini and it seems so much better, despite theoretically FDM printers being the more complex ones.
great video as usual mate.
Did anyone check to see if you could do AA with this printer on Lychee?
Just got this printer. 3 failed prints. Prints get stuck to the FEP.
Any suggestions?
It says the bed auto levels out the box.. can I level it myself or no?
can i use thingiverse to resin 3d print, iam new to resin 3d printing
In regards to recommending printers for beginners, I'm, surpried that DLP printers are not mentioned more, especially as the Mars 4 DLP is so cheap now. Is it just the smaller build volume that make DLP printers less desireable or am I missing something else?
I just bought this printer for my first resin printer. I can’t tell if I should be bummed or excited. 😂
Thanks for the review. As always, great points to consider.
Thanks for watching!
2:00 6,6 inch 4K display with no anti-aliasing was the entry level 4 years ago.
For almost this exact amount of money I would rather go with the Photon Mono 4. The non automatic 4 bolt leveling looks less of a hassle than this "automatic" leveling method.
I think the green lid looks good and the better transparency makes it more practical than the black one.
I believe sharpness comes from higher display contrast and low beam angle variance. But I can't wait for the tech insider content on this matter.
I am reviewing the Mono 4 now. and yeah I wanted to say it is better, but the Sharpness of the display on the machine is very poor, most likely due to the Matrix LED array. I'll have my Video up ASAP. Gimmie a week or 2, I have so many videos in the Queue right now
@@FauxHammer Can you get a youtube Short out whenever you test if there's any change on the AA Mars 5 situation? Cheers!
and I just bought Elegoo ... @2:30 all usb ports should be using patch leads anyhow , who wants to wear out the main connection port ... @12:00 AA is just a software feature , its just being paywalled for the .goo format
How important is image blur and AA really ? Most use case for these printers is warhammer prints, doesn't AA and blur reduce and muddy details anyway? Just ordered the mars 4 (at a very very good price - same price as mars 5 base model), hoping AA isn't important, or going for the anycubic mono 4 may have been a better option despite the lack of internal USB port
what all do i need to buy with one of these printers? because it seems like it does not come with everything needed to run for example resin/heater unless im reading the thing wrong on website. curious because my fdm printer came with everything needed to work and a small sample of pla
That un-grippable build plate design is truly baffling. How could nobody notice that after using the thing for even 5 minutes? Or just... looking at it?
I thought I was going to go with this one as my first now im just not sure if anyone has a recommendation for a good first resin printer please lmk
I have the Saturn4U and chitibox basic, what AA and blur settings are people using?
I put every setting in the middle
@dennyswang does great tests in this
I like 2 and 2 based on his testing
@@FauxHammer thanks for the channel recommendation.
You would think in this time as consumers the manufacturers would release each machines data the same way a standard format As there customers we need to push for clarity so just like we compare our phones we can with the modem 3d printers The question is how do you go about doing it and what standard information do we need??
Yes!!! Yes!! That is a good question.
And what it will take is a brand to figure that out. Deliver it and succeed in the marketplace for anyone to care enough to follow suit
Right now it’s. “Our car has more horsepower” hoping everyone will believe more horsepower is better.
If for instance I wanted to print parts for props / blasters that will be painted / processed I’m guessing the lack of AA isn’t an issue?
If you don’t mind some later and voxel lines, no probably not at all. And if they are basic shakes. You can easily sand them. For more detailed models like minis, or jewellery . It would be a nightmare to sand
Which one is better the Neptune 4 or this one here ? Don’t get the difference between These Two Types of Printers as an newbee
There’s a lot of big difference. Far too tuch for me to explain here
Check out “resin vs fdm” on UA-cam and watch a few videos. I haven’t done one myself
Bro no anti-alliasing? Thats a big fucking deal breaker. Like is it just on chitubox? can it be done on lychee?
Of course :)
@@Lychee3d so to be clear the machine can anti-allias if I slice the files on lychee instead?
Hello. What printer should I buy to print orks? I love orks and won’t be printing anything else. I don’t want to spend more than 300.
See if you can get a Saturn 4, or 3, or 3 ultra at that price.
i´m pretty much set on buying this printer as my first one
what i don´t fully understand: what do i have to expect from the not-anti-aliasing? does this happen every time? on particular shapes? bad .stl?
You will get layer lines no matter what, these are the lines which are due to layers and are visible on large round or smooth flat surface, the are like stairsteps.
On the perpendicular or horizontal plane, you can also get voxel lines, which is the difference between pixels, visible around certain curvatures.
Antiailiasing, smoothes those second ones.
5:13 ok that looks to be user error, you got this giant rectangle to grab so there is no way this should be dropped.
Maybe one day we'll get a reviewer that gets to the point!
Probbaly fair, watching this back, 2 minute sof intro on a 10 minute video was maybe a bit long, but I wanted to be more helpful for beginners up front as I expected it was those people who looked at this machine most.
Great video, I think though I am one of many that cannot get their head around going back to 4k. I guess I am one of those sold on K rating to an extent.
Also why the secretiveness about the 3d printer guy who is working with you.
Everyone knows it is the guy who designed the Athena printer 😂😂😂. Big bombshell if I am wrong 😬😬
I can’t confirm if it is him or not.
But I am being secretive because whoever it is, may have something coming that I cannot talk about.
@@FauxHammer oooooo are we gonna see a wargamer resin printer. Hopefully not locked to only war gamer resin. As in my opinion if you like that. You are a massive sell out 😜😜😜
Ah balls, im waiting on delivery of mine... there were no reviews so I assumed they had some AA functions :(
hopefully elegoo update the slicer compatibility later on.
would the manual work around of the 4 work with the 5 at all?
oh and also, am i tied to chitu? can i use lychee at all? as ive been messing around with lychee while waiting for the printer being ready for shipping and I'm kind of used to it now
Waiting on mine at the moment as well and typically use Lychee. I just checked and Lychee already supports the Mars 5. Plus it does have anti-aliasing settings when it comes to slicing your files
@@comhrac54 yeah, I booted up lychee to prep some files (Printer came fine, but a surprise bill means i have to wait till next month to buy my supplies in order to print :/, more time to learn blender haha), and noticed it was already supported with AA :) happy panda dance :)
I cant wait to get some models printed.
Is there a reason you aren't using grip tape on the build plate to make it more grippy? I mean I'm not a fan either but I've never dropped it once I slapped some grip tape on there.
I always review the printers as they come. Someone suggested this to me but the video was already recorded before that tip. It’s a good tip
If I were to say… ooh but you can use grip tape. I’m playing down an issue caused by a design that shouldn’t have this issue…
I printed a combo, hanger and handle on my X1c - Works amazing. No drops since.
Never know why companies remove things that aren't even an issue to just leave be..
I want the highest quality at the lowest price. I want the Saturn 5 Ultra (I know doesn't exist) at $200.00! I'm tired of hearing about K BTW. I want to hear about pixel size and layer thickness.
Advanced overheat protection. but yes 4K is awesome for the money.
Ooop, keep watching
@@FauxHammer Ha yes I stand corrected. 4K is the real deal here
Im considering buying the mars 5 to replace my mars 3 that broke a vat bolt in the hole. I either get the mars 4 ultra or the mars 5 base model
Base model is so much of a downgrade to the ultra version it is not worth it.
Funny you say this, I just broke another bolt for the vat and have sent back to Amazon (lucky it was the las day before I could return) I’ve got the 5 arriving tomorrow
Please let me know how your 5 is. Standard? Or ultra?@@chriseastty2874
I'm getting the 5 ultra
So in one line, you want a cheap resin printer under £200, what do you get?
Anycubic Mono 4. I've not done my review yet but I really like it
Anycubic Photon Mono M5 for extra build size. :)
I've watched so many of your videos and my #1. It's sad that elegoo printers are so much more user friendly but ive had nothing but issues with my s4u to the point I've had to replace the motherboard 3 weeks in and issues with the sensors and the scrappy build plate and the customer service is slow and has destroyed any chance ill buying another printer from them and I really want to get another printer 😢.
What new printer supports AA that you recommend that's under $300?
I can’t say get. I started testing the Mono 4 ultra bit in away for a trip this week. Maybe that. Maybe
new and cheaper than my mars 3 pro. definitely my next printer if I need to buy one new or a second machine
That build plate is the real deal breaker for me. Removing the build plate without dripping resin everywhere and cleaning the build plate is the worst part, that IPA gets filthy in no time, and I have a photon m3 which is very simple by comparison
Your videos are a cut above the rest, my dude.
Manufactures need to focus on ease of use like Bambu has done for FDM. most resin printers are terrible and gives zero consideration about the mess that is resin, as seen in the stupid build plate here. I rather not have auto leveling if someone can come up with a design that allows resin to just slop off. And something that allows the vat to be drained and cleaned easily
Yes! Thankyou!
I’m wanting Bambu to make a resin printer so damn bad
GKtwo has some nice simple design elements like a slide out resin tray and a skirt around the build plate. Simple but helpful.
Well shoot, been looking for a review for this, ordered one yesterday 😟
you will be fine, every printer has its weirdness, elegoo can just push an update to fix aa on their systems.
@Donbro to be fair if it's this AA thing that's the biggest bug bear of the printer I'm ok with that, not even sure I had it on for my other printers, pretty new to resin printing
AA is a must have! Nobody likes sanding layer lines.
i was wondering if anybody can give me some advice please? i have been looking at getting the saturn 4 ultra but i am wondering if i should be looking at any other 3d printers for simlar price range? i had the mars 5 ultra (my first printer) but found out pretty fast i wished i had gone for a bigger build volume (budget is around 500 but in amazon vouchers so i couldent spend the money on pointless stuff)
Did you see my comment on your other post?
@@FauxHammer no sorry I will go and have a look now! Thank you for such a fast response!
@FauxHammer oh I did have one more question I am in the UK also (not sure if this would matter) but what resin would you say if the best/easiest to use for the saturn 4 ultra/in general
Well you're grabbing it by the sides where it's slippery when you can grab it by the latch instead
I’m just pointing out it’s more awkward than other brand or even Elegoo earlier. And it is. How else should you grab it if not by this?
@@FauxHammer also most people are gonna have gloves on when they're grabbing it so
@@NoMercyFtwin my case that makes it more slippy. But I have sandpaper fingers
@@FauxHammer wait with gloves makes it more slippery, what are you talking about it's more slippery with gloves with resin on them.........
@@NoMercyFtw when I grab the top bit with my bare hands. I have more grip than with gloves on.
But I have really coarse fingertips. I often rub paint off minis just by handling them.
So I have worse grip on the top of this plate with gloves. I actually dropped my Saturn 4 ultra plate in the screen
That Anti Aliasing is so infuriating, I had so many issues with it on my Saturn 3 Ultra, turning many a resin vat into lasagna, finally got to return it today. GKTwo all the way. :D
I know it’s too late, but if you export the file as .ctb instead of .goo. It should have worked
@@FauxHammer Thank you for the advice, goo was indeed worse than ctb. But the difference was in goo it happened every time and in ctb only like 1 out of 4 to 5 times. It made me so tense I hated to use the printer. :(
Well damn. I just sold my Mars 4 to purchase a Mars 5.
Well it’s sharper than the Mars 4. Someone pointed out I should see if Lychee is a good workaround for this. Not had chance yet but I will
I was just about to drop a few hundred on this then ... anti-alliasing.
As always, you do a good job weighing the pros and cons. But... just because everyone calls it auto-leveling does not make it alright. So, perhaps it's time to allow your viewers to actually give Elegoo - and everyone else - crap over this? Or, you could do it?;)
4:39 and that's how a company will get away with doing it more.
Something stupid I have been stuck thinking about. What does Elegoo even mean? Goo?
ELE comes from the word electronic, which means open-source electronic. GOO comes from the word googol, meaning the 100th power of 10. The written form is 1 followed by 100 zeros, referring to the huge amount of structural models brought by 3D printers.
Elegoo implies the combination of open-source electronics and structures that creates everything.
Taken from their website xD
@@TashiMortier wow that’s a detailed answer! Thanks
@@Castdeath Just copy paste xD
Ok. This may be the best thing I’ve learned today… what does Anycubic mean?
Predovic Curve
Background music is Sam Kramer - Down For The Long Run (Instrumental Version) for anyone wondering
I actually was. Thanks
They took it off so it doesn’t cannabalise their other stuff
Comment so Ross can buy more Legos. And elegoo to fix anti alias
Cool
No AA, Thats A Big No Go!
I think so too
For me No AA=deal breaker
OMG they put the same design of the build plate from Saturn 4.... nope nope NOPE. Also why bother with that janky sprung "self-leveling "(sic) system I have leveled my saturn 3 exactly twice in 12 months and my only fails have been from poor supports. guess i won't be getting a new printer for Christmas.
I don't get you brother. I've been using Saturn 4 Ultra since it came out and the only fails I got were due poor supports or bad resin calibration on my side.
A few people have received bad beds that can’t seem to get level. Most have been lucky, but because you can’t adjust it. You’re stuck dealing with support and testing until you get sent another bed you need to wait for.
I get why people are pissed
Greattt
Soo... you have issue with shitubox slicer and not printer itself? So if you had AA on it it would be another good elegoo device? Hardly device issue, more like "software" issue. Sure elegoo should polish .goo format but features missing from software which not everyone uses shouldnt impact general overview of device itself
Antialiasing is fundamentally btoken on chitu based printers. When a row of pixels has too much data, the printer gets confused and exposes the entire row instead of just the specified pixels to the specified light level. Because of this, elegoo has disabled AA on some of their newer printers.
What? They work in combination. You can't use AA on this printer. Doesn't matter whether it's the software's fault or the hardware's. I'm not sure how this is hard to understand.
I think the other commenters said it better than I could. AA is important to many people as a method of reducing voxel and layers lines. And Co suffering this printer is more dimensionally accurate than the Mars 5 it is a somewhat crippling lack of a feature for some people.
But the issue it seems is not Chitubox. Thanks to comments from people who professionally test resin printers and even support the manufacture of them. It is the .goo format which is the issue here and has many bugs
And since .goo is a proprietary Elegoo format and the only format this printer is able to handle. Yes. It’s an issue with the machine
i just checked and yes lychee lets you slice with anti-aliasing using the standard mars 5 profile on and its fast!
Does it work? Could you show test results of on vs off please? I need to know
@@FauxHammer since i don't have the Mars 5 i can't actually print a file from Lychee with and without smoothing but the same mini with smoothing is 27.5 mb and without is 15.8 mb so the software is altering the file somewhat
@@stephenpointon yeah I’ve seen that and that “massive file size” was an issue with the last gen .goo files. As someone who is probably more clued up than anyone about 3D printing said in another comment
.goo incredibly prone to glitching with AA enabled.
In my case. It makes the files so big sometimes that they are above the file size limit of the fat32 formatted usb drives we use (limit is just under 4gb)
What is it with Chinese companies and serif fonts? No sane person uses serif fonts as screen fonts anymore, especially on low-res displays. And why do they constantly mix serif and sans serif fonts? It makes absolutely no sense. It's harder to read and just looks awful and unprofessional.
You know. That is something I really should have noticed!
@@FauxHammer I guess that's sarcasm, but this stuff really triggers my OCD - I'm a bit of a stickler for UX and readability. Elegoo clearly invests some time and money in consistent product design and corporate identity (unlike, say, Sovol - Sovol makes decent stuff, and I love their commitment to open source, but not even their company logo is consistent), so this really annoys me. Probably a lot more than it should...
@@wsippel no. I’m a font stickler too. Inconsistency is something I should have seen and digital serif in 2024 is kinda daft. It’s used for infrequent impactful attention markers only, whatever suits the theme of the text.
So no. I agree!
No AA on the basic machines? Thats HUGE...
Well. Not trying to blow it out of proportion. But it’s bloody daft! Hardware upgrade. Software downgrade!
Maybe they are using surplus boards with limited CPU and RAM for "basic" printers.
Or they are just trolling us 🙄
With 0 upgrades to Mars 4 firmware to fix AA and/or GOO format, or occasional firmware erases if USB memory is connected when powering up *and* no firmware on their site to fix it (can find a link from Reddit), I'd go with both 😔
M4 _is_ better than _2K_ printers, but it might be two Elegoo printers for us at the same time: the first and the last 😅
AA just isnt deal breaker, especially for a beginner. Put your microscope away. 😂 I've printed miniatures with the mars5 ultra, no AA, with no problems. The biggest issue in this ecosystem is Chitubox. What a glitchy and in-efficient piece of software that is.
It isn’t for some is for others. On Eid the most common comments I get is how do I remove layer lines.
The issue here is they the .goo format is very immature and Elegoo are sticking by it. But this is a basic feature of older printers and it removes the option here. An option I feel people would want.
And if this printer did it. Because it’s so god damn sharp, even better than the Mars 5 ultra. It would be one of the best machines in the market.
Chitubox is trashy I agree, lychee can introduce slicing issues on machines. Tango has a crappy Ui.
Lots to sort in all the slicers
@@FauxHammer the slicers are terrible really yeah. But on AA, I just printed some miniatures 2 days ago and seriously, what layer lines? If anyone is being that particular over the surface then they are probably going to be finishing it with paint or something. Maybe I'm wrong but I cant think of anything that would need the prints to be any better fresh off the bed. Again, thinking of beginners mainly.
I'm just making some concept models of solar carports for a company and there are some flat surfaces that might show some lines, barely, but it will be finished with paint etc, because it's a high end product.
@@nate-plays it may not matter to you, it may be the train you use. If you are happy with what you get. Brilliant!
But many aren’t. I’m not. I airbrush. I drybrush, I wash. And all of these techniques make layers stick out like a sore thumb. I can removed that in one swoop with AA
donesn't support AA? thats ridiculous
being crippled in software makes this a hard pass
So that elgoo mars 3 that I’m just sold for $30 US is better than than the mars 5 that is so funny.
Yes and no. But having that one key feature being unavailable here totally weakens the product!