If you are considering an S4U for your first resin printer, don't think just buy it. I was afraid of the learning curve of resin printers, but the S4U is so simple, it was hard to mess up. Right out of the box it printed like a dream. Other than a few software crashes caused by Chitumanager I hadn't had a single failed print until the FEP started to go last week, and it has been running almost non stop for a few months. I can say without a doubt it has been one of my best hobby purchases ever.
@@testermonkey2304 I got the elegoo heater, which just arrived last month. But I haven't seen a need to install it. I keep my printer indoors and live where it is warm year round. If the temp monitor on the printer can be believed, it never goes below 20C.
Double-deck plate pushed me away from S4. But I bought Saturn 3 and it is a great printer! To be fair: how often do you need to level your bed? Once at start and then only if you incorrectly remove the prints (hint: don't remove prints without removing plate from the printer). Biggest concern with speed are always layer height and type of resin. Any warping resin needs to print slower, same if you want good quality: 50um layer makes no sense if you need to use sub 25um piksel printer, as your cubic piksels become 50um in height, which become 59um in diamater. Use 25um layer, to get 40um diamater, but then curing time affects your quality a lot... But still: I can finish within one day prints using elastic/tough resins and this is absolutely enough.
@@chrismatney639 that is my prerogative I received mine a month ago and still haven’t print anything. First of all my PC is old and started having problems running Chitubox and Lychee. Got so mad I put it aside and haven’t try again.
I recently purchased the M7 Pro. I chose the M7 primarily because of the heater/circulator. Also, cleaning the Saturn build plate was something I didn’t want to deal with and concern about resin getting into the tilt mechanism. My first print with the M7 was the was the RERF calibration with Anycubic ABS-like PRO 2 with default settings with temperature around 24 C. For any who don’t know, this prints 8 separate models numbered 1 through 8, starting from a base exposure time increasing in .25 second increments. 3 of the 8 models failed to adhere to the build plate. These corresponded to numbers 4, 6 and 8. The others (1, 2, 3, 5, 7) were acceptable. These corresponded to the right side of the plate closest to the machine which appeared to be a bed leveling problem so I went about leveling the bed. The guide that comes in the box did not have leveling instructions for some reason. I did find instructions on the usb drive, the anycubic wiki, and a video on Anycubic UA-cam. Problem was the instructions were slightly different on each source. For example, in the video, after the steps where the plate is homed and lowered one millimeter, text appears in the video with a ‘tip’ advising to ‘lock the screws’. This does not appear in the M7 PDF manual or the M7 Anycubic wiki leveling guides. The video, which otherwise demonstrates every other step in the leveling process, does absolutely nothing I can associate with the ‘lock the screws’ tip. Later, toward the end of the video, there is s the instruction to ‘tighten the screws’ which doesn’t make sense if you had ‘locked’ them previously. After several attempts following various permutations of the instructions, I finally got a ‘complete’ level test, which I assumed to mean the leveling had been successful. I should have run the RERF again (live and learn) but instead set up a longer overnight print using over 400ml of resin which also failed to adhere to the right side of the build plate closest to the machine. The print did complete but because the right side of it was hanging off the build plate, it was warped and unusable. Following this, I thoroughly scrubbed the build plate in case I had missed any residue from manufacturing, more obsessively went through the leveling process again and increased the bottom layer exposure from 25 seconds to 40 seconds. Since then, things have been working working great, however since several things were done at the same time to resolve the issue, I’m not sure what the original problem was. I’d be interested in knowing anyone else’s experience.
Yea i have been printing a fair bit on my S4U (about 7 litres) so far, and almost all prints filling the plate, and so far the film looks in great condition. The only negative with the tilting vat and noticeably faster printing is that you go thru alot of resin fast 😀 ive also noticed that the dimensional accuracy is really good. Maybe because of the gentler peeling forces. So far im impressed.
@@FauxHammer I Just ordered the S4U using your link. Is my first printer. I don't like the pump or heater on the M7 pro, looks complicated. I also live in a hot weather area so the heater is not a must. I can clean the build plate on a plastic bin with alcohol. Thanks once again for all your help.
@@FauxHammer Replying here as you may actually then see my comment: You said you don't know anyone printing at higher than 50um... Well, you don't know me, but I print almost everything at 75um. Why? Because I am not printing miniatures but functional parts which are getting a light sand anyways. So, I end up printing way faster and I don't burn out my screen so fast (I am on my third soon - yes, I print a lot of parts). No shade on minis but I think a ton of people not into minis also watch your channel;) The main reason I wouldn't print even higher layers is that the light can't "punch through" and cure well enough if I go too high and some of the features still need smallish steps. So, for me, for my parts, for my particular opaque resin I print at 75um. If I printed clear resin and my parts were ok with a bit of stepping, I think 100um would still cure and fuse well. Now, I had to chime in because you have quite the reach and I wouldn't want people to think that 50um is the highest you should ever go. It's a horses for courses thing. And while I respect your thoughts a lot and you cutting through the BS, I am also wary of wrong "knowledge" doing the rounds. Like back in the day (oh, still nowadays...) where influencers and manufacturers still preached you have to print initial layers at 25-30secs. I print mine at about 10-12 secs (on a resin with a 2.3sec normal exposure length) and could probably go lower. I sense you do the same:). Yes, I am blessed living in a place where temps aren't an issue. No need to build up heat by blasting the LCD any longer than you absolutely have to as it is likely to shorten its lifespan. Speaking of which, here's an idea for an in-depth test someone could consider picking up: I'd love to see someone put a temp sensor inside the printer during a print and add that info - especially in comparison tests. E.g. between these two while I do think I will have a tilting bed in my next printer, if another one ran much cooler, that might tempt me. Actually, the marketing material for the Saturn 3 specifically talked about better cooling of the internals - whereas that seems to gone (or a given) on the 4 now. Might just have been PR Speak or might be that they do know it can be an issue but they penny pinched and dropped whatever was possibly better/more expensive on the 3. Not sure as I haven't seen the insides of any of them.
An add on thought. Fillers are a thing in engineering resins (and I guess in a lot of others). These can settle on the bottom during a long print and it can actually mess with your print as they make the resin more dense and you end up under exposing the end of the print - and you have less filler, less strength at the end, too. These can be real issues on a long, structural print. So, even though I though the heater on the M7 was silly, maybe that pump would help keep the fillers suspended. I am hoping a tilting bed would do the same. Yes, I know, I am an outlier. For most of what people print, this will never be an issue;)
I love the Saturn 4 Ultra. Quick tip, if you are printing moulds with square corners, turn the model by 45 degrees to decrease the pulling force even more and use the high speed without any print speed or quality.
Have to agree that the thought of resin getting under the vat on my S4U is scary but hasn't happened yet and I am really clumsy. The plastic bib is really naff but does seem to work... pretty sure it will crack at some point though. Also, many thanks for continuing to wear clothes during your time lapse shots.
I use a self built chamber heater on an M5. It works very well. I use it for Sculp Pro ceramic resin at 30C. Raise the bed the top. Put the bottle of resin on the printer, start the heater and close the lid. Let it run for 20 min or so to heat the bottle. Shake the bottle a lot (ceramic). install the vat, fill and print.
It s something like a year that i m in the world of 3d resin printing. i started 2 years ago studying over and over all the reviews video so many times that when i finally bought my first printer (elegoo saturn 8k) i was more skilled then people i met while i was looking for a second hand one. For all the beginners falling in the same loop: you have to try and see to learn. I made a lot of mistakes, i spent a lot of money in resins, wash and cure etc... You doesn't need the better printer on the market in quality because when you'll learn it wont be anymore. So go cheaper and improove. All you need is patience, a lot of patience, a lot of space and a lot of time. I can finally say that, after a year using the saturn 8k, my new saturn 4 ultra is another world. it s really really simple to use; 'Cheap'; Fast; and it has a small risk of fail. I think it s all you need to start other than FauxHammer videos ;)
I am loving my Saturn 4 Ultra. the tilting vat is something every company should consider, reducing those peeling forces is huge, I have had only one print failure and it was my fault when doing the supports. (didn't use enough and the print pulled off the supports). One thing I would say about it, though it is more to do with their sold separately heater, is that it needs a different way to attach it. attaching to the vent hole with a plate doesn't work if you want to run an exhaust hose to it. I have the heater 2-side taped to the back above the camera which blocks one of the intake vents on the heater (also upside down). not exactly a perfect solution. it's summer here right now so it's not a huge issue, but living in Canada, that chamber heater is going to be put to the test come winter.
Too late for me cuz I already ordered the S4U but the video is still a great comparison. Well Done Ross, thanks. Madness is the gift that's been given to me.
@@FauxHammer would you be willing to tell us excluding the review of these two specific products which of the two brands have been the better products overall for the 2 years? If you think that might ruin it I can wait☺
This was a video i was waiting on buuuuut then i got a GK2 for 500 quid and have never looked back. The GK2 has been amazing! The heater has made allowed me to make my prints quicker, arguably cleaner all with less failures
I have a Mars 5 Ultra and I added the Elegoo mini heater. It works fantastic. (Its also a filter btw) My printer is directly in front of an open window and the temps outside this week have gotten down to 40f and yet my resin still feels warm as well as the entire inside of the printer. The seal around the edge of the top does hold the heat in. I simply "pre heat" the chamber for 5 minutes before printing....No issues
I’m totally happy with my sat4 ultra. Granted I live in SoCal warmer weather so no need for heater. I’ve yet to have and print fails or even issues with vat spout spilling resin. Best printer investment I’ve made! Fauxhammer you make the best reviews! Keep it up!
For those of us in milder climes, the heated vat system is a bunch of points of failure and a major PITA for little benefit. For those of you in the chill zone, the benefit might be better, but I think you'd get by with a small space heater inside the lid. You don't need hot resin. You need not-cold resin, and that's not that great a challenge. For that matter, someone should put together a build using a small heated bed made for FDM printers to mount on the lid along with a small power supply outside. Super cheap from Ali Express.
I know the little space heater thing is not the "optimal" way to heat, but I was having issues with my basement being too cold, and a $30 generic under-lid space heater solved the problem.
Well, I need 2 things. 1) warm resin 2) simultaneously working fumes extraction. Current heaters for inside the printers usually block the vent port. Extracting the warm air directly makes heating rather pointless.
@@Vizeroy9 I concur about the Elegoo air heater being pointless while extracting fumes at the same time, as it would immediately extract hot air before it could warm the resin. The only printers that I think can do both heating + air extraction together are those that heat the resin from below the screen (like the UniFormation GKtwo and GK3 Ultra) or those circulating the resin through a dedicated liquid heater (like the Anycubic M7 Pro). But Air Heaters? Nah.
Hi FauxHammer, I love your videos and the Saturn 4 Ultra is a really appealing machine with the highlight being the reduced settings complexity. I live in Victoria, Australia and would be putting this machine in an uninsulated garage. It is consistently well below 20c here for 6 months of the year though. I would love to see some discussion about heating solutions and how effective they are, particularly things like that greenhouse-like enclosure you mentioned and just how useful that is vs shelling out for a more expensive device with proper heating. (the GK series seems to have a massive austalia tax on it compared to the elgoo/anycubic devices).
I had a saturn 2 back then. The printer really annoyed me as a beginner. Prints kept failing and levelling was annoying to do. Ended up returning the printer to amazon. Just bought a saturn 4. First print with the entire build plate filled. No models failed. No messing around with lift speeds, heights and such. It just prints.
I believe in 1 or 2 more generations we should hopefully have something amazing. I think I will wait for that to happen rather than pull the trigger on one of these now.
Im no longer in the market for either printer as i spent mu money on the GK3. That said, I'd never miss your videos. You explain things in an easy to understand straight to the point, way.
All these videos are fantstic as I'm looking for my first Resin printer. So far Saturn 4 Ultra is looking like it's going to be my financial irrisponsibility!
For me now that you have A RERF like feature that is arguably better than what anycubic had makes the Saturn the clear winner. The resin pump in the vat with heating is an interesting idea not for heating but for possilby keeping stuff like mica powder from settling. but no one has tested it so who knows. Chamber heaters work great. been using a DIY one for a few years and ever since i started using it the results have been very consistant. And my printer is out in the garage and I'll print in winter. The volume you have to heat us so small that even without any insulation the a small ptc heater will easily keep the chamber above 25 C. The issue ends up actually being thermal runaway rather than lack of adequate heating in my experience.
I have 4 any cubic m7 pro printers and I have been running them nonstop so far for my business and they work great. had a little issue with firmware but so far it heats resin great every time and my layers are down to 1.2 sec with Syria tech resin, and it works great. I do also like the elegoo features also but all stay with any cubic for now.
I love your videos they've been very helpful. My screen died on my Saturn 2 because of a puncture. So I've order a 4 Ultra. And I agree about Loot. I use their models almost exclusively for my D&D game.
I purchased my second S4U and love them. I also got a Mars 5 Ultra which was insanely low price and had free shipping! I’ve still got my 2 S3U units and they’re great also but I can’t monitor them remotely. I was a bit worried about the speed hindering my workflow also but I don’t have that many orders ….. yet. Considering I started in April 2023 with a Mars 4 DLP, this tech is moving by insanely fast!
Great video. when you did the last one about the M7 i did wonder which was better so appreciate you taking the time to do this. There doesnt seem to be much in it i think i will probably get the saturn. to me it just seems the quickest simplest way to get prints and if you look at the cost difference atm its a bit of a no brainer.
Hey @FauxHammer, I really enjoyed your video-it was engaging and informative! I couldn’t help but notice you used the word ‘but’ about 44 times during the 25 minutes which leads to 1,76 buts/min :) Amazing!
@@FauxHammer probably, for the sake of knowledge and better understanding of someone looking to step into 3D printing world. Much appreciate your work and reviews.
The S4U is so dam out of the box easy. I've got the elegoo mini heater as well. It arrived later than the printer. I'm in Aus and it's winter, I did have issue after issue till the heater showed up. Now every print is nailed. All without tweaking ANY default setting. (Overnight, temps in that room are about 11C) Just leave it running for a bit before you start printing and it'll warm up everything under the lid well enough.
Based on your comparison of Elegoo Saturn 4V and Anycubic M7 Pro, I've come to conclusion to order UniFormation GKtwo :D, Thank you for your thorough review and the discount code, I would most likely not consider it without it.
I have just purchased the Saturn 4 Ultra after watching your review video and using you link. I need to make you aware of a bit of a fatal flaw with the Saturn 4 Ultra> I was upgrading from a Sturn with the red perspex lid and had no issues with UV light and could leave the resin in the vat for days even weeks without issue, however the Saturn 4 Ultra does not seem to have the same protection against UV light. Just be aware that the lid does not seem to be polorized or have the same protection that previous models have. which is a shame condiering its their flagship model.
A very informative video thank you. To me it kind of points to the anycubic as having way too many potential points of failure unfortunately. That doesn't mean I'm going to be buying the ultra cuz I'm waiting to see what the their next gen does first. Plus I need to see what the competition brings out between now and then.
@16:00 guess no one's used water feeders before ? its possible to just drill a hole in the bottle cap add a hose that leads to the tray flip the bottle upside down and have it gravity feed , when level drops air goes into the bottle and liquid flows out ?
I went with the M7 pro and I'm very happy with it. The heated resin , larger print area and mobile app support was the deal breaker for me as well as I didn't like the design of the S4U, that allows for potential or more like a WHEN not IF resin will spill into the printer. I also don't like the design of the s4U build plate. Looks like a nightmare to clean. I'm sure the S4U is ok but not for me.
An absolutely perfect comment! YES!!!! More people should be making the right choice "FOR THEMSELF" rather than just following people's direct opinion. You and I have different wants out of a printer and you chose what is right for you. good job!
i love my ultra 4, i’ve had one issue with it where it would y “auto level” but resting the firmware fixed that in about 10 minutes. it’s my first 3d printer ever and is super easy to use
I would really like to see a comparison between Anthena and the Saturn 4 Ultra. I know that they didn't perform very well at the end, but they also have some nice features that might worth checking. The latest update on their KS is that they have started shipping some of the machines. Also I am really thinking of swapping my Saturn 2 8K for the 4 Ultra or Mars 5 Ultra.
On my Mars 4 Ultra and my Saturn 3 Ultra, my main concern right now is, that the resin doesn't get too hot. 25°C room temperature and a 3 hour print will heat the resin up to nearly 50°C
I bought the S4U because of the flip up top and the tilting vat. The Halot mage was my first personal resin machine and it was good but the S4U puts the Halot and my office Form 2 and 3s to shame.
@@FauxHammer we are in full summer i. Australia now when I got the saturn 4 it was through winter here minus 6 degrees Celsius was the coldest it got, but still cold enough for print failure. But zero issues.
This video definitely has me interested in a Saturn 4 Ultra. I have a question - I've only ever printed with my FDM printer, and so this would be my first resin printer. I'm worried about resin pooling on top of the build plate between that and the double-decker ceiling thing above it. Is there a way to keep from having to clean the resin pools on the top of the build place (next to the spring columns) between each print? I had watched a few other videos about the Saturn 4 Ultra in the past but wasn't sure where to look for this information. Thanks.
I used your link when buying an elegoo printer this weekend but after selecting the printer it shunted me to the uk site, so im not sure you will get a kickback from the purchase. Either way thanks for all the videos, they have been the main factor informing my choice on my first printer!
Total newbie here with some questions: 1) do I still need to put the resin under UV light after the printing? Thought it is a must but it never gets mentioned outisde some vids for beginners. 2) How bad is the smell and the fumes? Everyone says its super bad but nobody seems to you use a suction hose. 3) The Saturn 4 is over 100€ cheaper here, doesn't the M7 with its more settings have more options to 'perfect' the prints? If not it looks like a no brainer to take the Saturn over the M7 since its only upside is the heater.
1. Yes. After washing. It's very important. You well never get ALL of the resin off in the wash and when you expose to UV, whatever is left on the surface will be cured. It doesn't take long, only about 3 minutes max usually. Just get a cure and wash station, they are very much worth it. 2. Its bad. It will give you a headache, requires proper ventilation, and is bad for you. Wear a respirator. Not an N95 mask, a P95 or up. People will downplay this, and they are flat out wrong. I have a background in chemical engineering and now work in the health field as a Critical Care Registered Nurse in the USA. From both fields, trust me. Your lungs will thank you in 30 years. I see guys doing videos without PPE and it blows my mind. 3. Anycubic usually slightly outperforms elegoo with most of its products, but elegoo is very much catching up. The physical mounts of your build plate etc. is a bit better designed in anycubic models i.e. it's easier to hold, manipulate etc. In my opinion of course. Anycubic feels slightly more premium, and looks anesthetically a bit better, but again that's up to subjective opinion. Happy you are joining the hobby! Jist be safe, and please, correctly dispose of the chemicals you use when printing! (The resin and the IPA).
@@mscrawford87 Thank you very much!! The M7 and the Cure&Wash station is ordered. I have a plan for ventilation and in germany chemical disposal is taken very serious but also many optios to do it properly
Push that big chunk down coz this will be quicker up here. Question, why do you always pour the resin onto the top of the plate? I'm under the impression that resin is toxic and dangerous, so surely adding an additional drop and the potential for splashes is a bad thing. So I'm guessing that there is a fundamental reason for doing so. I see it in all resin printer videos, but no one has ever explained why. 100% agree that quality is less important than ease of use for me. Ease of use is what is still holding me back from buying a resin printer. They're definitely much better than when I first poked my nose into the space. But until it's as simple as the current range of FDM printers (or as near as is possible with a toxic print medium like resin) I'll still be happy having a few visible layer lines on my FDM prints. I've no real NEED to print anything as perfect as the stuff you show off in all of these videos, but I've definitely been bitten by the bug and I keep my eyes open for the day that resin printing becomes as easy as FDM for me.
m7 pro for me I really like anycubic kinda a fan boy well not kinda I am. Love my kobra 3 my m5 has been great and decided that I honestly like resin better then my fdm thanks for that btw...your a bad influence on resin printers. Can't wait for my m7pro to get here
One thing to note that you missed in the revo review. The vent port is proprietary. It would be roughly equivalent to a 77mm fan, which is a nightmarishly bad choice. If you want to use that same hole and redrill the mounting holes for almost any fan you'll be trying to drill them within a few mm of the existing holes. Which leaves adapters, which there currently are none. They also use #4 screws for the plate, which are substantially smaller than standard mounting bolts for fans. It's just fun the whole way around.
@@FauxHammer I dug around for a bit and wasn't finding one. Poetically didn't help that none of them were flagged as being for a revo and I wasn't sure what search terms to use. I ended up cad modeling something together, but always willing to go with something better if I find it.
add a plexi or mdf plate. pin that to the existing holes. use the plate to make new ones. or silicone in a sleeve. put some wax on the inside of the tube in the machine. clean your sleeve tube with alcohol and then with vinegar. apply silicon evently around the sleeve. insert. let set. if difficulty removing, use a hair dryer to warm the tube, should come out if you used enough wax... candle wax is easy. might smell nice, too.
As someone who lives in the north west of England, I have to say, if elegoo, or anyone else for that matter, produced a 3d printer which regulated its own temperature, preferably by including insulation in the design, I would probably buy it on the spot. My central heating is only set to 18c so if it isn't in the middle of summer, my house is never 20c or above.
As much as i am loving this printer, so far the only time ive bothered with the camera is just because i can. Its a shame Elegoo dont have an app to monitor the prints. Because so far the camera is more of a trinket than anything actually useful.
Now after using an M7 Pro I can tell you that the actuall high speed of this printer comes from the fact that using the advance settings you can set a slower retracting speed for the platform till the film peels of and you can set another much faster speed for the rest of the retraction distance (after the film peels off the platform still needs to be raised so the resin can fill up the area where the layer got cured) and also there is another feature that uses AI to check with the builtin presure senzore at what distance the film peels off and adapts the distance and the speed of the platform dinamically after the film peels off (but yeah there are reports that this feature doesn't works properly in certain situations ex. some high viscuosity resins). I think Uniformation printers can also setup 2 speeds for the platform retraction based on their Chitubox profile. Also the screen luminosity is probablly higher than other same size printer models considering the curing times given on a few resins (for which I have seen the printing specs).
Pretty much all printers have 2 stages for lift? And I don’t believe for a second that Anycubic have ben smart enough to have dynamic lift speeds based on force. If they did then it would be something to really shout about and would fork with PFA too
My resin printers are in my basement and i have been using chamber heaters since i bought the Voxelab 2K printer 5 years ago. I personally have had zero issues with either the heaters that i made or bought. Would i have liked my vat to be heated....yes. Is it a non issue....yes. I live in the Northeast of the United States and it does get cold and my basement is not heated. I love my Saturn 4.
So...can I please have the tilting vat of the S4U, the less complicated build plate of the M7 Pro, the wifi of the S4U, and the heater of the M5sPro....and, a DLP projecting onto a 10" glass screen with a resolution of about 24microns. There...that's my ideal printer.
@@PatchGuilf In fact, after thinking about this a bit more, I reckon the Saturn 3 Ultra is the closest to the features I'm looking for, even though it's LCD and not DLP. I find that a DLP is just so much better. No screen to worry about, and so, so quiet.
@@ColinKlupiec I think I'm going to go for the GK2. A bit more money but seems to have the best build and features even though it's 8k it has the crisp detailed prints but on a big plate plus heating
I've got the Saturn 4 Ultra but it's been pretty useless because if the Resin Level sensor. It either needs to be removed or update to force print it cause when it does print it prints great. But even with help from other youtube videos, reddit, and even Elegoo themselves I'm ready to either trade it in for the Saturn 3 Ultra or old yeller this thing.
What are your views on wham bam flex plates with resin printers.? Watched a LOT of your videos and saw a few bust prints on Sons of Anarchy characters and wondering if you designed them as I'd love these on my desk once I start resin printing.....
So i'm not in the market for a new resin printer at the moment, but both of these have deal breakers for me, so i honestly wouldn't want to deal with either of them. The saturn's drippy pain in the ass buildplate and the m7's resin heater that i'd have to clean out all the time.
Any idea on the cons of having higher temperatures? I plant to set it near my PC and it may be rendering for long periods... would be 25º - 28º room temp be ok?
as for the ACF durability, I have myself got bubbles in my acf and I've seen that from many others, I assume this is the two layers delaminating, this doesn't happen with other fep types so from that alone I consider it less durable. Also there was some stuff j3d shared recently that sugguested that the low peel forces don't last long on acf anyway.
Would love to get into resin printing, but every time I consider it I'm put off by all the heat and ventilation and toxicity issues & requirements. I have a small flat with no outdoor or garage area, so seems I'm stuck with my Ender 3 V3 KE for now.
Thank you. Thank you so much! The amount of shit I get off commenters telling me I repeat myself is painful. Thanks for understanding that I need to assume this could be anyone’s first video
Mostly love my Saturn 4 Ultra, however I would prefer a build plate like the Mars 4 ultra. I have had a lot of fails on the saturn 4 and cannot adjust the build plate to fix it so I feel somewhat helpless and just re-slice and re-print then it seems to work. I have 2 mars 4 ultra's and have had to change out the acf constantly. It starts to cost. One of my mars 4 ultra's now has just pfa on it and runs perfectly.
I had a bunch of fails on the S4U and Elegoo sent me a new build plate. I tested the flatness of the plate with an engineer's rule, and you could see a bit of daylight between them. Sent the photo to Elegoo and they promptly sent a new plate. No issues since then.
I received the Saturn 4 . And for now is the best printer i ever had. 0 configuration and calibration, except for the cones of calibration print. And support that never worked before are working now
With layer speeds, I've been using 0.03mm layer heights on my Mars 3 to closely match the horizontal pixel sizes. The fact that any new printer is using 0.1mm layers to describe their speeds feels insane to me.
I does not look like it, but there is already one on the screen. So no need for that. It already saved my life when the build plate fell on it while moving the Printer while forgetting to fix the built plate.
Have 2 M7s, complaints it's tedious to change the films, clean the vat and changing resins gets very messy, and unless your making a living with 3D prints speed isn't a biggy.
could you do a review of the anycubic M7.. not the pro.. this one dows not have the heater and pumps to deal with . this is one i was thinking of getting as when you said about the weight to the vat on the pro, with the heater stuck to it at one end. my thinking is that will be to much for my arthritis hands to hold an tilt. so would love to know more about just the M7. as a disabled artist i have been looking at what to buy and im struggling to find any info on accessibility for the disabled community. like watching you open haygears top looks a struggle for the weaker hands .
Hey Mr. FauxHammer, i learned from you that the resolution (8,10,12,14k....) is quite a hoax. So the only difference that counts is the speed,but brands lie too at the mm per hour you say. So why dont you pick a modell and test all the printers with the same layer hight and resin to get correct values ?? How fast is a printer realy? How much faster is the Saturn 4 Ultra with its new tilting mechanism compared to "normal" ones? You mentioned that you don´t care about speed, but i bet that isthe question everybody else wants to get answerd. best regards MAX
Hey Ross, where are the orange stains on the resin prints coming from? You can see them multiple times throughout the video while still on the build plate.
another question..on the saturn 4 ultra, I use lychee pro , alot of the community profiles for resin still have retraction settings, do i need or can i get rid of these? As im watching yours print i notice that the build plate has no retraction and mine does do to these community profiles
Ive got the Saturn 4 Ultra and I guess ive got need to play with the settings more because prints aren't as good as I hoped . I would like your recommendation for a Large affordable resin printer. Been thinking , Jupiter , or maybe the Gk3. Is the GK3 worth the price difference from the Jupiter? Im not really printing Extreme detail items Id more be printing Prop cosplay stuff, really want to slice a helmet and resin print it
Question: I live in Ireland and my 3d printer will be in a heated and insolated room in the house. Is it still advise to get a heated printer like the GK2 for less failure or am I ok just going for Elegoo Saturn 4 for cheaper and faster printing time?
When you say the S4U is fast, how fast are we talking? Do you have a comparison of the same miniature printed on the S4U vs either the m7 pro (using the same resin) or any other printer like it's predecessor the Saturn 3? Looking at getting one for time saving but I can't find a comparison on how much time it would actually save. Obviously I could load files into chitubox on both printers and see the estimated times but these are always wrong.
A plate of minis (28mm Napoleonic infantry) took 4 hours and change on my old Saturn 8k. On the S4U the same group of minis takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes. It's fast. Incidentally, I found the Chitubox estimates to be pretty close with the S4U. They were less accurate with the older Saturn.
in 20:19 you said "if you get Your resin below 20degC You start to having overesposed layers" which is not true... You start having underesposed layers. As a resin warms up it becomes less viscous (i.e. thinner), and requires a lower exposure time. Colder, thicker resin will require a longer exposure time to cure it. Am i right?
If the resin is cooler you need to expose the layers longer to achieve success. So yes if you just left the time alone. The result would be underexposed. But since you would dial in your resin for your environment temp. You would increase the exposure time and as such. Your layers would be overexposed when successful
@@FauxHammer am not getting Your answer. Sorry English is not my native. Your env. temp is almost always equal or lower than resin. So if resin temp drops below 20 then Your env temp will be somwhere around that. And will stay that way with small increase during the print. So You will expose to that temperature. This esposition will be longer. Unleass You use heater it will be more or less the same during whole print. Lets say 1 deg is not that big deal and whole print will be at more or less the same environmental constant value. If the temperature jump will be from 20 to 25 deg during print then it may be causing overexposure. but otherwise ""if you get Your resin below 20degC You start to having overesposed layers" is not true.If you will use settings for 25deg and env temp and resin temp is 20 during the print then it will end up with underexposure not overexposure. So that is what i am reffering to.
I was thinking of this. but I can tell you the Mars 5 is worse. and this issue is nothing to do with the Pixel size, but instead it is the poor UV transmittance of the 9k screens used in the mars 5. it results in overexposure of the models. is it significant? not massively. is it noticeable... yes.
@@FauxHammer thank you so much for your reply. Are you sure its not ''silicon lottery'' kind of situation or maybe even solveable thing through fine tuning the machine? Could you confirm this issue with other people who has those two machines? Do you think a potential firmware update from elegoo side can fix that issue? Sorry for bothering you this much but ill use it for jewelry and i need those details.also my ordering window is closing in few days. thank you so much again for your work.
![Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max [HONEST Review] - Is bigger better?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SDPNv7suZVA/mqdefault.jpg)
If you are considering an S4U for your first resin printer, don't think just buy it. I was afraid of the learning curve of resin printers, but the S4U is so simple, it was hard to mess up. Right out of the box it printed like a dream. Other than a few software crashes caused by Chitumanager I hadn't had a single failed print until the FEP started to go last week, and it has been running almost non stop for a few months. I can say without a doubt it has been one of my best hobby purchases ever.
yeah ive had the same experience with mine. So worth it.
also the chitubox heater is miles better than the elegoo heater
@@testermonkey2304 I got the elegoo heater, which just arrived last month. But I haven't seen a need to install it. I keep my printer indoors and live where it is warm year round. If the temp monitor on the printer can be believed, it never goes below 20C.
Double-deck plate pushed me away from S4. But I bought Saturn 3 and it is a great printer! To be fair: how often do you need to level your bed? Once at start and then only if you incorrectly remove the prints (hint: don't remove prints without removing plate from the printer).
Biggest concern with speed are always layer height and type of resin. Any warping resin needs to print slower, same if you want good quality: 50um layer makes no sense if you need to use sub 25um piksel printer, as your cubic piksels become 50um in height, which become 59um in diamater. Use 25um layer, to get 40um diamater, but then curing time affects your quality a lot...
But still: I can finish within one day prints using elastic/tough resins and this is absolutely enough.
@@chrismatney639 that is my prerogative I received mine a month ago and still haven’t print anything. First of all my PC is old and started having problems running Chitubox and Lychee. Got so mad I put it aside and haven’t try again.
Same here.
I'd switch to Lychee Slicer. Yeah you dont get the AI camera but IMO not really needed. it's just a nicer slicer.
I recently purchased the M7 Pro. I chose the M7 primarily because of the heater/circulator. Also, cleaning the Saturn build plate was something I didn’t want to deal with and concern about resin getting into the tilt mechanism. My first print with the M7 was the was the RERF calibration with Anycubic ABS-like PRO 2 with default settings with temperature around 24 C. For any who don’t know, this prints 8 separate models numbered 1 through 8, starting from a base exposure time increasing in .25 second increments. 3 of the 8 models failed to adhere to the build plate. These corresponded to numbers 4, 6 and 8. The others (1, 2, 3, 5, 7) were acceptable. These corresponded to the right side of the plate closest to the machine which appeared to be a bed leveling problem so I went about leveling the bed. The guide that comes in the box did not have leveling instructions for some reason. I did find instructions on the usb drive, the anycubic wiki, and a video on Anycubic UA-cam. Problem was the instructions were slightly different on each source. For example, in the video, after the steps where the plate is homed and lowered one millimeter, text appears in the video with a ‘tip’ advising to ‘lock the screws’. This does not appear in the M7 PDF manual or the M7 Anycubic wiki leveling guides. The video, which otherwise demonstrates every other step in the leveling process, does absolutely nothing I can associate with the ‘lock the screws’ tip. Later, toward the end of the video, there is s the instruction to ‘tighten the screws’ which doesn’t make sense if you had ‘locked’ them previously. After several attempts following various permutations of the instructions, I finally got a ‘complete’ level test, which I assumed to mean the leveling had been successful. I should have run the RERF again (live and learn) but instead set up a longer overnight print using over 400ml of resin which also failed to adhere to the right side of the build plate closest to the machine. The print did complete but because the right side of it was hanging off the build plate, it was warped and unusable. Following this, I thoroughly scrubbed the build plate in case I had missed any residue from manufacturing, more obsessively went through the leveling process again and increased the bottom layer exposure from 25 seconds to 40 seconds. Since then, things have been working working great, however since several things were done at the same time to resolve the issue, I’m not sure what the original problem was. I’d be interested in knowing anyone else’s experience.
The Saturn 4 Ultra had me at the tilting vat with fewer settings. I'm looking forward to the simpler slicing process.
Hopefully one day
Yea i have been printing a fair bit on my S4U (about 7 litres) so far, and almost all prints filling the plate, and so far the film looks in great condition. The only negative with the tilting vat and noticeably faster printing is that you go thru alot of resin fast 😀 ive also noticed that the dimensional accuracy is really good. Maybe because of the gentler peeling forces. So far im impressed.
@@FauxHammer I Just ordered the S4U using your link. Is my first printer. I don't like the pump or heater on the M7 pro, looks complicated. I also live in a hot weather area so the heater is not a must. I can clean the build plate on a plastic bin with alcohol. Thanks once again for all your help.
@@FauxHammer Replying here as you may actually then see my comment:
You said you don't know anyone printing at higher than 50um... Well, you don't know me, but I print almost everything at 75um. Why? Because I am not printing miniatures but functional parts which are getting a light sand anyways. So, I end up printing way faster and I don't burn out my screen so fast (I am on my third soon - yes, I print a lot of parts). No shade on minis but I think a ton of people not into minis also watch your channel;)
The main reason I wouldn't print even higher layers is that the light can't "punch through" and cure well enough if I go too high and some of the features still need smallish steps. So, for me, for my parts, for my particular opaque resin I print at 75um. If I printed clear resin and my parts were ok with a bit of stepping, I think 100um would still cure and fuse well.
Now, I had to chime in because you have quite the reach and I wouldn't want people to think that 50um is the highest you should ever go. It's a horses for courses thing. And while I respect your thoughts a lot and you cutting through the BS, I am also wary of wrong "knowledge" doing the rounds. Like back in the day (oh, still nowadays...) where influencers and manufacturers still preached you have to print initial layers at 25-30secs. I print mine at about 10-12 secs (on a resin with a 2.3sec normal exposure length) and could probably go lower. I sense you do the same:). Yes, I am blessed living in a place where temps aren't an issue.
No need to build up heat by blasting the LCD any longer than you absolutely have to as it is likely to shorten its lifespan.
Speaking of which, here's an idea for an in-depth test someone could consider picking up: I'd love to see someone put a temp sensor inside the printer during a print and add that info - especially in comparison tests. E.g. between these two while I do think I will have a tilting bed in my next printer, if another one ran much cooler, that might tempt me.
Actually, the marketing material for the Saturn 3 specifically talked about better cooling of the internals - whereas that seems to gone (or a given) on the 4 now. Might just have been PR Speak or might be that they do know it can be an issue but they penny pinched and dropped whatever was possibly better/more expensive on the 3. Not sure as I haven't seen the insides of any of them.
An add on thought. Fillers are a thing in engineering resins (and I guess in a lot of others). These can settle on the bottom during a long print and it can actually mess with your print as they make the resin more dense and you end up under exposing the end of the print - and you have less filler, less strength at the end, too. These can be real issues on a long, structural print.
So, even though I though the heater on the M7 was silly, maybe that pump would help keep the fillers suspended. I am hoping a tilting bed would do the same.
Yes, I know, I am an outlier. For most of what people print, this will never be an issue;)
7:29 that’s me again! Thanks for mentioning my video once more - Ross, you are the guy! ❤
I love the Saturn 4 Ultra. Quick tip, if you are printing moulds with square corners, turn the model by 45 degrees to decrease the pulling force even more and use the high speed without any print speed or quality.
Have to agree that the thought of resin getting under the vat on my S4U is scary but hasn't happened yet and I am really clumsy. The plastic bib is really naff but does seem to work... pretty sure it will crack at some point though. Also, many thanks for continuing to wear clothes during your time lapse shots.
I use a self built chamber heater on an M5. It works very well. I use it for Sculp Pro ceramic resin at 30C. Raise the bed the top. Put the bottle of resin on the printer, start the heater and close the lid. Let it run for 20 min or so to heat the bottle. Shake the bottle a lot (ceramic). install the vat, fill and print.
It s something like a year that i m in the world of 3d resin printing. i started 2 years ago studying over and over all the reviews video so many times that when i finally bought my first printer (elegoo saturn 8k) i was more skilled then people i met while i was looking for a second hand one.
For all the beginners falling in the same loop: you have to try and see to learn.
I made a lot of mistakes, i spent a lot of money in resins, wash and cure etc...
You doesn't need the better printer on the market in quality because when you'll learn it wont be anymore. So go cheaper and improove.
All you need is patience, a lot of patience, a lot of space and a lot of time.
I can finally say that, after a year using the saturn 8k, my new saturn 4 ultra is another world.
it s really really simple to use;
'Cheap';
Fast;
and it has a small risk of fail.
I think it s all you need to start other than FauxHammer videos ;)
I am loving my Saturn 4 Ultra. the tilting vat is something every company should consider, reducing those peeling forces is huge, I have had only one print failure and it was my fault when doing the supports. (didn't use enough and the print pulled off the supports).
One thing I would say about it, though it is more to do with their sold separately heater, is that it needs a different way to attach it. attaching to the vent hole with a plate doesn't work if you want to run an exhaust hose to it. I have the heater 2-side taped to the back above the camera which blocks one of the intake vents on the heater (also upside down). not exactly a perfect solution. it's summer here right now so it's not a huge issue, but living in Canada, that chamber heater is going to be put to the test come winter.
My Saturn 4 Ultra arrived just Yesterday... Thank you for all your videos about it.
Too late for me cuz I already ordered the S4U but the video is still a great comparison. Well Done Ross, thanks.
Madness is the gift that's been given to me.
Good choice
@@FauxHammer Love my S4U
@@FauxHammer would you be willing to tell us excluding the review of these two specific products which of the two brands have been the better products overall for the 2 years? If you think that might ruin it I can wait☺
@@chaley2935 I think I cover this pretty well in the video. But if not, please ask me again after it premieres
@@FauxHammer ok, thank you 😊
Really liked your review comparison, straight to the point and detailed, too. 12:21, the ads kicked in just as you were about to say that B-world 😅
This was a video i was waiting on buuuuut then i got a GK2 for 500 quid and have never looked back. The GK2 has been amazing! The heater has made allowed me to make my prints quicker, arguably cleaner all with less failures
I have a Mars 5 Ultra and I added the Elegoo mini heater. It works fantastic. (Its also a filter btw) My printer is directly in front of an open window and the temps outside this week have gotten down to 40f and yet my resin still feels warm as well as the entire inside of the printer. The seal around the edge of the top does hold the heat in. I simply "pre heat" the chamber for 5 minutes before printing....No issues
I don't even WANT to buy a Resin printer, but somehow I MUST watch all your videos..... ;) Keep it up, loving your style and sense of humor!
I’m totally happy with my sat4 ultra. Granted I live in SoCal warmer weather so no need for heater. I’ve yet to have and print fails or even issues with vat spout spilling resin. Best printer investment I’ve made! Fauxhammer you make the best reviews! Keep it up!
For those of us in milder climes, the heated vat system is a bunch of points of failure and a major PITA for little benefit. For those of you in the chill zone, the benefit might be better, but I think you'd get by with a small space heater inside the lid. You don't need hot resin. You need not-cold resin, and that's not that great a challenge. For that matter, someone should put together a build using a small heated bed made for FDM printers to mount on the lid along with a small power supply outside. Super cheap from Ali Express.
All fair points, well made
I know the little space heater thing is not the "optimal" way to heat, but I was having issues with my basement being too cold, and a $30 generic under-lid space heater solved the problem.
Well, I need 2 things.
1) warm resin
2) simultaneously working fumes extraction.
Current heaters for inside the printers usually block the vent port. Extracting the warm air directly makes heating rather pointless.
@@Vizeroy9 I concur about the Elegoo air heater being pointless while extracting fumes at the same time, as it would immediately extract hot air before it could warm the resin. The only printers that I think can do both heating + air extraction together are those that heat the resin from below the screen (like the UniFormation GKtwo and GK3 Ultra) or those circulating the resin through a dedicated liquid heater (like the Anycubic M7 Pro). But Air Heaters? Nah.
I'm going to build an insulated box and heater with an extraction system for mine
Hi FauxHammer, I love your videos and the Saturn 4 Ultra is a really appealing machine with the highlight being the reduced settings complexity. I live in Victoria, Australia and would be putting this machine in an uninsulated garage. It is consistently well below 20c here for 6 months of the year though. I would love to see some discussion about heating solutions and how effective they are, particularly things like that greenhouse-like enclosure you mentioned and just how useful that is vs shelling out for a more expensive device with proper heating. (the GK series seems to have a massive austalia tax on it compared to the elgoo/anycubic devices).
The heated VAT has worked fine for me. I’ve honestly not had any issues and the m7 pro has been great to me.
yeah, it's not bad. but it's not a heated vat, it;s a pump system. So it;s a bit more complex than i feel it needs to be.
I had a saturn 2 back then. The printer really annoyed me as a beginner. Prints kept failing and levelling was annoying to do. Ended up returning the printer to amazon. Just bought a saturn 4. First print with the entire build plate filled. No models failed. No messing around with lift speeds, heights and such. It just prints.
On my M5S pro ACF film I have 682 hours and 18 liters of resin, that's fantastic
please tell me what printer to choose for jewelry. which one prints best?
I believe in 1 or 2 more generations we should hopefully have something amazing. I think I will wait for that to happen rather than pull the trigger on one of these now.
Im no longer in the market for either printer as i spent mu money on the GK3. That said, I'd never miss your videos. You explain things in an easy to understand straight to the point, way.
Get Down With The Sickness! Loved that ending.
All these videos are fantstic as I'm looking for my first Resin printer. So far Saturn 4 Ultra is looking like it's going to be my financial irrisponsibility!
For me now that you have A RERF like feature that is arguably better than what anycubic had makes the Saturn the clear winner. The resin pump in the vat with heating is an interesting idea not for heating but for possilby keeping stuff like mica powder from settling. but no one has tested it so who knows. Chamber heaters work great. been using a DIY one for a few years and ever since i started using it the results have been very consistant. And my printer is out in the garage and I'll print in winter. The volume you have to heat us so small that even without any insulation the a small ptc heater will easily keep the chamber above 25 C. The issue ends up actually being thermal runaway rather than lack of adequate heating in my experience.
I have 4 any cubic m7 pro printers and I have been running them nonstop so far for my business and they work great. had a little issue with firmware but so far it heats resin great every time and my layers are down to 1.2 sec with Syria tech resin, and it works great. I do also like the elegoo features also but all stay with any cubic for now.
I love your videos they've been very helpful. My screen died on my Saturn 2 because of a puncture. So I've order a 4 Ultra. And I agree about Loot. I use their models almost exclusively for my D&D game.
Thanks. Yeah look are awesome. I’m never left with Nothing to print.
great review as usual and a review i was really looking forward to. Im leaning towards the saturn 4 ultra
I purchased my second S4U and love them. I also got a Mars 5 Ultra which was insanely low price and had free shipping! I’ve still got my 2 S3U units and they’re great also but I can’t monitor them remotely. I was a bit worried about the speed hindering my workflow also but I don’t have that many orders ….. yet. Considering I started in April 2023 with a Mars 4 DLP, this tech is moving by insanely fast!
Great video. when you did the last one about the M7 i did wonder which was better so appreciate you taking the time to do this. There doesnt seem to be much in it i think i will probably get the saturn. to me it just seems the quickest simplest way to get prints and if you look at the cost difference atm its a bit of a no brainer.
Picked up the Elegoo based on your review. Very happy with it.
Hey @FauxHammer, I really enjoyed your video-it was engaging and informative! I couldn’t help but notice you used the word ‘but’ about 44 times during the 25 minutes which leads to 1,76 buts/min :) Amazing!
Ah. I think only used but 36 times, the other 8 were butt.
Now you get to watch again and spot which is which.
@@FauxHammer probably, for the sake of knowledge and better understanding of someone looking to step into 3D printing world. Much appreciate your work and reviews.
The S4U is so dam out of the box easy.
I've got the elegoo mini heater as well. It arrived later than the printer. I'm in Aus and it's winter, I did have issue after issue till the heater showed up. Now every print is nailed. All without tweaking ANY default setting.
(Overnight, temps in that room are about 11C) Just leave it running for a bit before you start printing and it'll warm up everything under the lid well enough.
Based on your comparison of Elegoo Saturn 4V and Anycubic M7 Pro, I've come to conclusion to order UniFormation GKtwo :D, Thank you for your thorough review and the discount code, I would most likely not consider it without it.
I would really like to get the M7 pro, looks perfect for what I need (an upgrade from my M3).
Nice review, agree with the use case, I didn’t get on with the M7 but did enjoy the speed.
I have just purchased the Saturn 4 Ultra after watching your review video and using you link.
I need to make you aware of a bit of a fatal flaw with the Saturn 4 Ultra>
I was upgrading from a Sturn with the red perspex lid and had no issues with UV light and could leave the resin in the vat for days even weeks without issue, however the Saturn 4 Ultra does not seem to have the same protection against UV light.
Just be aware that the lid does not seem to be polorized or have the same protection that previous models have. which is a shame condiering its their flagship model.
A very informative video thank you. To me it kind of points to the anycubic as having way too many potential points of failure unfortunately. That doesn't mean I'm going to be buying the ultra cuz I'm waiting to see what the their next gen does first. Plus I need to see what the competition brings out between now and then.
For those in the states. He means 20 degrees Celsius, not Fahrenheit.
As always, great and informative video! 👍
Seems better to wait another year or two for perfect printers. We are that close.
@16:00 guess no one's used water feeders before ? its possible to just drill a hole in the bottle cap add a hose that leads to the tray flip the bottle upside down and have it gravity feed , when level drops air goes into the bottle and liquid flows out ?
First time I see someone noticing that the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro has actually a vent port for fumes extraction. Kudos!
I went with the M7 pro and I'm very happy with it. The heated resin , larger print area and mobile app support was the deal breaker for me as well as I didn't like the design of the S4U, that allows for potential or more like a WHEN not IF resin will spill into the printer. I also don't like the design of the s4U build plate. Looks like a nightmare to clean. I'm sure the S4U is ok but not for me.
An absolutely perfect comment! YES!!!! More people should be making the right choice "FOR THEMSELF" rather than just following people's direct opinion.
You and I have different wants out of a printer and you chose what is right for you. good job!
i love my ultra 4, i’ve had one issue with it where it would y “auto level” but resting the firmware fixed that in about 10 minutes. it’s my first 3d printer ever and is super easy to use
I saw all the previous preview videos and I bought a GK2 (with your code).
I would really like to see a comparison between Anthena and the Saturn 4 Ultra. I know that they didn't perform very well at the end, but they also have some nice features that might worth checking. The latest update on their KS is that they have started shipping some of the machines. Also I am really thinking of swapping my Saturn 2 8K for the 4 Ultra or Mars 5 Ultra.
On my Mars 4 Ultra and my Saturn 3 Ultra, my main concern right now is, that the resin doesn't get too hot. 25°C room temperature and a 3 hour print will heat the resin up to nearly 50°C
I couldn't wait and got the M7 Pro.... 😅 Kinda feel bad now tho the results have mostly been fantastic.
I bought the S4U because of the flip up top and the tilting vat. The Halot mage was my first personal resin machine and it was good but the S4U puts the Halot and my office Form 2 and 3s to shame.
Put bottle of resin under and out. Pour into Saturn with heater. Perfect print
Pardon? under and out?
What light are you using in the Saturn 4
Chamber heating works fine work all through winter with zero fails. The resin was warm as with elegoo heater. Best printer ever.
All through winter? I’m confused, this heater hasn’t existed through a full winter yet? We’re only just going into winter now?
@@FauxHammer we are in full summer i. Australia now when I got the saturn 4 it was through winter here minus 6 degrees Celsius was the coldest it got, but still cold enough for print failure. But zero issues.
This video definitely has me interested in a Saturn 4 Ultra. I have a question - I've only ever printed with my FDM printer, and so this would be my first resin printer. I'm worried about resin pooling on top of the build plate between that and the double-decker ceiling thing above it. Is there a way to keep from having to clean the resin pools on the top of the build place (next to the spring columns) between each print? I had watched a few other videos about the Saturn 4 Ultra in the past but wasn't sure where to look for this information. Thanks.
I used your link when buying an elegoo printer this weekend but after selecting the printer it shunted me to the uk site, so im not sure you will get a kickback from the purchase. Either way thanks for all the videos, they have been the main factor informing my choice on my first printer!
Total newbie here with some questions: 1) do I still need to put the resin under UV light after the printing? Thought it is a must but it never gets mentioned outisde some vids for beginners. 2) How bad is the smell and the fumes? Everyone says its super bad but nobody seems to you use a suction hose. 3) The Saturn 4 is over 100€ cheaper here, doesn't the M7 with its more settings have more options to 'perfect' the prints? If not it looks like a no brainer to take the Saturn over the M7 since its only upside is the heater.
1. Yes. After washing. It's very important. You well never get ALL of the resin off in the wash and when you expose to UV, whatever is left on the surface will be cured. It doesn't take long, only about 3 minutes max usually. Just get a cure and wash station, they are very much worth it.
2. Its bad. It will give you a headache, requires proper ventilation, and is bad for you. Wear a respirator. Not an N95 mask, a P95 or up. People will downplay this, and they are flat out wrong. I have a background in chemical engineering and now work in the health field as a Critical Care Registered Nurse in the USA. From both fields, trust me. Your lungs will thank you in 30 years. I see guys doing videos without PPE and it blows my mind.
3. Anycubic usually slightly outperforms elegoo with most of its products, but elegoo is very much catching up. The physical mounts of your build plate etc. is a bit better designed in anycubic models i.e. it's easier to hold, manipulate etc. In my opinion of course. Anycubic feels slightly more premium, and looks anesthetically a bit better, but again that's up to subjective opinion. Happy you are joining the hobby! Jist be safe, and please, correctly dispose of the chemicals you use when printing! (The resin and the IPA).
@@mscrawford87 Thank you very much!! The M7 and the Cure&Wash station is ordered. I have a plan for ventilation and in germany chemical disposal is taken very serious but also many optios to do it properly
Push that big chunk down coz this will be quicker up here. Question, why do you always pour the resin onto the top of the plate? I'm under the impression that resin is toxic and dangerous, so surely adding an additional drop and the potential for splashes is a bad thing. So I'm guessing that there is a fundamental reason for doing so. I see it in all resin printer videos, but no one has ever explained why.
100% agree that quality is less important than ease of use for me. Ease of use is what is still holding me back from buying a resin printer. They're definitely much better than when I first poked my nose into the space. But until it's as simple as the current range of FDM printers (or as near as is possible with a toxic print medium like resin) I'll still be happy having a few visible layer lines on my FDM prints. I've no real NEED to print anything as perfect as the stuff you show off in all of these videos, but I've definitely been bitten by the bug and I keep my eyes open for the day that resin printing becomes as easy as FDM for me.
m7 pro for me I really like anycubic kinda a fan boy well not kinda I am. Love my kobra 3 my m5 has been great and decided that I honestly like resin better then my fdm thanks for that btw...your a bad influence on resin printers. Can't wait for my m7pro to get here
One thing to note that you missed in the revo review. The vent port is proprietary. It would be roughly equivalent to a 77mm fan, which is a nightmarishly bad choice.
If you want to use that same hole and redrill the mounting holes for almost any fan you'll be trying to drill them within a few mm of the existing holes. Which leaves adapters, which there currently are none. They also use #4 screws for the plate, which are substantially smaller than standard mounting bolts for fans. It's just fun the whole way around.
There are already a few printable adapters for this hole type. but yeah, for a standard fan size would have been useful
@@FauxHammer I dug around for a bit and wasn't finding one. Poetically didn't help that none of them were flagged as being for a revo and I wasn't sure what search terms to use. I ended up cad modeling something together, but always willing to go with something better if I find it.
add a plexi or mdf plate. pin that to the existing holes. use the plate to make new ones. or silicone in a sleeve. put some wax on the inside of the tube in the machine. clean your sleeve tube with alcohol and then with vinegar. apply silicon evently around the sleeve. insert. let set. if difficulty removing, use a hair dryer to warm the tube, should come out if you used enough wax... candle wax is easy. might smell nice, too.
I cant wait for the saturn 5 ultra
As someone who lives in the north west of England, I have to say, if elegoo, or anyone else for that matter, produced a 3d printer which regulated its own temperature, preferably by including insulation in the design, I would probably buy it on the spot. My central heating is only set to 18c so if it isn't in the middle of summer, my house is never 20c or above.
As much as i am loving this printer, so far the only time ive bothered with the camera is just because i can. Its a shame Elegoo dont have an app to monitor the prints. Because so far the camera is more of a trinket than anything actually useful.
Now after using an M7 Pro I can tell you that the actuall high speed of this printer comes from the fact that using the advance settings you can set a slower retracting speed for the platform till the film peels of and you can set another much faster speed for the rest of the retraction distance (after the film peels off the platform still needs to be raised so the resin can fill up the area where the layer got cured) and also there is another feature that uses AI to check with the builtin presure senzore at what distance the film peels off and adapts the distance and the speed of the platform dinamically after the film peels off (but yeah there are reports that this feature doesn't works properly in certain situations ex. some high viscuosity resins). I think Uniformation printers can also setup 2 speeds for the platform retraction based on their Chitubox profile. Also the screen luminosity is probablly higher than other same size printer models considering the curing times given on a few resins (for which I have seen the printing specs).
Pretty much all printers have 2 stages for lift? And I don’t believe for a second that Anycubic have ben smart enough to have dynamic lift speeds based on force. If they did then it would be something to really shout about and would fork with PFA too
I think in print farms and people not changing resins often the pump is much more useful.
the more i see comparing the saturn 5/mars 5 compared to other printers the more i want one
My resin printers are in my basement and i have been using chamber heaters since i bought the Voxelab 2K printer 5 years ago. I personally have had zero issues with either the heaters that i made or bought. Would i have liked my vat to be heated....yes. Is it a non issue....yes. I live in the Northeast of the United States and it does get cold and my basement is not heated. I love my Saturn 4.
Thankyou. very useful input and it;s greatly appreciated...
So...can I please have the tilting vat of the S4U, the less complicated build plate of the M7 Pro, the wifi of the S4U, and the heater of the M5sPro....and, a DLP projecting onto a 10" glass screen with a resolution of about 24microns. There...that's my ideal printer.
Exactly! This is my exact issue. Every alternative has an element that makes it just a bit shitty and for £400 odd that's annoying.
@@PatchGuilf In fact, after thinking about this a bit more, I reckon the Saturn 3 Ultra is the closest to the features I'm looking for, even though it's LCD and not DLP. I find that a DLP is just so much better. No screen to worry about, and so, so quiet.
@@ColinKlupiec I think I'm going to go for the GK2. A bit more money but seems to have the best build and features even though it's 8k it has the crisp detailed prints but on a big plate plus heating
@@PatchGuilf I'd say that's a good call too.
I want to get the Saturn 4 ultra but the build plate is putting me off. Seems like a lot of faffing around to clean
I've got the Saturn 4 Ultra but it's been pretty useless because if the Resin Level sensor. It either needs to be removed or update to force print it cause when it does print it prints great. But even with help from other youtube videos, reddit, and even Elegoo themselves I'm ready to either trade it in for the Saturn 3 Ultra or old yeller this thing.
What are your views on wham bam flex plates with resin printers.? Watched a LOT of your videos and saw a few bust prints on Sons of Anarchy characters and wondering if you designed them as I'd love these on my desk once I start resin printing.....
So i'm not in the market for a new resin printer at the moment, but both of these have deal breakers for me, so i honestly wouldn't want to deal with either of them. The saturn's drippy pain in the ass buildplate and the m7's resin heater that i'd have to clean out all the time.
Any idea on the cons of having higher temperatures? I plant to set it near my PC and it may be rendering for long periods... would be 25º - 28º room temp be ok?
as for the ACF durability, I have myself got bubbles in my acf and I've seen that from many others, I assume this is the two layers delaminating, this doesn't happen with other fep types so from that alone I consider it less durable. Also there was some stuff j3d shared recently that sugguested that the low peel forces don't last long on acf anyway.
Are stay in the same room while printing? Not afraid VOC things?😊
Would love to get into resin printing, but every time I consider it I'm put off by all the heat and ventilation and toxicity issues & requirements. I have a small flat with no outdoor or garage area, so seems I'm stuck with my Ender 3 V3 KE for now.
Not my 1st video. More like my 100th. But good job treating this like it could be someone's 1st.
Thank you. Thank you so much! The amount of shit I get off commenters telling me I repeat myself is painful.
Thanks for understanding that I need to assume this could be anyone’s first video
its my first
Mostly love my Saturn 4 Ultra, however I would prefer a build plate like the Mars 4 ultra. I have had a lot of fails on the saturn 4 and cannot adjust the build plate to fix it so I feel somewhat helpless and just re-slice and re-print then it seems to work. I have 2 mars 4 ultra's and have had to change out the acf constantly. It starts to cost. One of my mars 4 ultra's now has just pfa on it and runs perfectly.
I had a bunch of fails on the S4U and Elegoo sent me a new build plate. I tested the flatness of the plate with an engineer's rule, and you could see a bit of daylight between them. Sent the photo to Elegoo and they promptly sent a new plate. No issues since then.
Might look into that, Elegoo has always been fair to me with service.
I received the Saturn 4 .
And for now is the best printer i ever had.
0 configuration and calibration, except for the cones of calibration print.
And support that never worked before are working now
With layer speeds, I've been using 0.03mm layer heights on my Mars 3 to closely match the horizontal pixel sizes. The fact that any new printer is using 0.1mm layers to describe their speeds feels insane to me.
Agreed… it’s silly
A Photon S was the first printer I used too. Do you have any videos of you using that printer, Ross?
Hey I was wondering should I get a screen protector for my Saturn 4 Ultra?
I does not look like it, but there is already one on the screen. So no need for that. It already saved my life when the build plate fell on it while moving the Printer while forgetting to fix the built plate.
Have 2 M7s, complaints it's tedious to change the films, clean the vat and changing resins gets very messy, and unless your making a living with 3D prints speed isn't a biggy.
How I wish the Mars 4 ultra's tilting vat and reduced slicer setting would merge with the GK2 build plate design and heating vat.
could you do a review of the anycubic M7.. not the pro.. this one dows not have the heater and pumps to deal with . this is one i was thinking of getting as when you said about the weight to the vat on the pro, with the heater stuck to it at one end. my thinking is that will be to much for my arthritis hands to hold an tilt. so would love to know more about just the M7.
as a disabled artist i have been looking at what to buy and im struggling to find any info on accessibility for the disabled community. like watching you open haygears top looks a struggle for the weaker hands .
I’m already on it. Being edited now whilst I’m away and will be up for members early next week and live shortly after that
@@FauxHammer thank you. many of the brands don't talk about being accessible to the disabled community sadly.. so makes it tricky to pick one to get
Hey Mr. FauxHammer,
i learned from you that the resolution (8,10,12,14k....) is quite a hoax.
So the only difference that counts is the speed,but brands lie too at the mm per hour you say.
So why dont you pick a modell and test all the printers with the same layer hight and resin to get correct values ??
How fast is a printer realy?
How much faster is the Saturn 4 Ultra with its new tilting mechanism compared to "normal" ones?
You mentioned that you don´t care about speed, but i bet that isthe question everybody else wants to get answerd.
best regards
MAX
Hey Ross, where are the orange stains on the resin prints coming from? You can see them multiple times throughout the video while still on the build plate.
it was the drops of orange ink i put in the vat to show the resin moving for the heater
@@FauxHammer Thanks! Great videos, as always!
another question..on the saturn 4 ultra, I use lychee pro , alot of the community profiles for resin still have retraction settings, do i need or can i get rid of these? As im watching yours print i notice that the build plate has no retraction and mine does do to these community profiles
They will just be ignored by this machine
Is a a Uniformity gk2 or a sat4 ultra better then?
@fauxhammer by watching your videos you have inspired me to play the game Warhammer 40k do you think you could do some videos on how to play it ?
Take a drink every time Ross references another video he's made
Hahah. Well, that’s also why my views are growing
Ive got the Saturn 4 Ultra and I guess ive got need to play with the settings more because prints aren't as good as I hoped . I would like your recommendation for a Large affordable resin printer. Been thinking , Jupiter , or maybe the Gk3. Is the GK3 worth the price difference from the Jupiter? Im not really printing Extreme detail items Id more be printing Prop cosplay stuff, really want to slice a helmet and resin print it
If printing large models, I doubt you would need the detail of the GK3. But the heater could be a helpful addition.
Question: I live in Ireland and my 3d printer will be in a heated and insolated room in the house. Is it still advise to get a heated printer like the GK2 for less failure or am I ok just going for Elegoo Saturn 4 for cheaper and faster printing time?
As long as you keep the temp in the room above 20C you should be fine.
When you say the S4U is fast, how fast are we talking? Do you have a comparison of the same miniature printed on the S4U vs either the m7 pro (using the same resin) or any other printer like it's predecessor the Saturn 3? Looking at getting one for time saving but I can't find a comparison on how much time it would actually save. Obviously I could load files into chitubox on both printers and see the estimated times but these are always wrong.
A plate of minis (28mm Napoleonic infantry) took 4 hours and change on my old Saturn 8k. On the S4U the same group of minis takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes. It's fast. Incidentally, I found the Chitubox estimates to be pretty close with the S4U. They were less accurate with the older Saturn.
I have the m7 pro and absolutely love the results it produces. I would recommend it if your looking for a printer.
"What would I choose? I would choose to watch my VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" I found that kinda funny
Haha, thanks….🙏
in 20:19 you said "if you get Your resin below 20degC You start to having overesposed layers" which is not true... You start having underesposed layers. As a resin warms up it becomes less viscous (i.e. thinner), and requires a lower exposure time. Colder, thicker resin will require a longer exposure time to cure it. Am i right?
If the resin is cooler you need to expose the layers longer to achieve success. So yes if you just left the time alone. The result would be underexposed. But since you would dial in your resin for your environment temp. You would increase the exposure time and as such. Your layers would be overexposed when successful
@@FauxHammer am not getting Your answer. Sorry English is not my native. Your env. temp is almost always equal or lower than resin. So if resin temp drops below 20 then Your env temp will be somwhere around that. And will stay that way with small increase during the print. So You will expose to that temperature. This esposition will be longer. Unleass You use heater it will be more or less the same during whole print. Lets say 1 deg is not that big deal and whole print will be at more or less the same environmental constant value. If the temperature jump will be from 20 to 25 deg during print then it may be causing overexposure.
but otherwise ""if you get Your resin below 20degC You start to having overesposed layers" is not true.If you will use settings for 25deg and env temp and resin temp is 20 during the print then it will end up with underexposure not overexposure. So that is what i am reffering to.
Can you please compare the quality of saturn ultra 4 vs mars 5 ultra.İ wonder 6 micron diffrence on y axis makes visible diffrence .thanks
I was thinking of this. but I can tell you the Mars 5 is worse. and this issue is nothing to do with the Pixel size, but instead it is the poor UV transmittance of the 9k screens used in the mars 5. it results in overexposure of the models.
is it significant? not massively. is it noticeable... yes.
@@FauxHammer thank you so much for your reply.
Are you sure its not ''silicon lottery'' kind of situation or maybe even solveable thing through fine tuning the machine? Could you confirm this issue with other people who has those two machines?
Do you think a potential firmware update from elegoo side can fix that issue?
Sorry for bothering you this much but ill use it for jewelry and i need those details.also my ordering window is closing in few days.
thank you so much again for your work.
@@FauxHammer btw if your observations based on RERF results you cant trust them
what about anycube m7 vs m7 pro?
I got a larger printer, Saturn 3ultra, to print large things so ACF is not at issue for me.