How to Print Perfect Miniatures - Resin 3D Printing BEGINNER GUIDE - Step by Step
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2024
- Are you struggling to get your printer, any printer, working? Start here. This is the exact process I follow with every printer I review, and in only 5 quick steps - so long as you do them right, you'll be able to print anything, and if you can't, you'll know exactly why. I've helped so many people online get their printer working by advising them to do what I show here. Whilst this video will help you, I created it for me. so I don't need to keep repeating myself...
if you have followed this and still have issues, I'll be shocked, but tell me below. and make sure if you do, you tell me your Printer, Resin and temperature. Along with your Layer height, Exposure time and lift speeds.
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00:00 - Intro
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Don't suppose you have the RERF version you knocked up for the monk review?
@fauxhammer at 12:13 what do you call that bucket with a plastic insert to do a quick wash on small parts? I have been looking for something like that and I cannot find it!
hi @fauxhammer could you do a lychee profile for the wargamer resin i would like to try it but afraid of the no profile . so no starting point part of this experiment ty in forward
thingaverse is broken af I'm new does this happen often ? so I just wait an d don't do shit until the fucking 3d model site EVERYone uses isn't dead?
Got back into 3D printing minis after a fairly unsuccessful previous attempt, just wanted to thank you for putting together this video, I've been dialing in my exposure settings tonight and feeling considerably more confident than ever with the process!
6:58 you're absolutely right. I never took it seriously and my prints were rubbish. My printer is also in the garage and I live in a cold region. I invested time, effort and money to build a heated box for my printer. My prints are excellent now. Temperature is crucial for resin 3D prints
There isn't a single thing you missed here besides checking if your lights are working and illuminating entirely. I actually got a test print to work on my Anycubic Mono 4K from direct center, but my top right set of lights were out. Didn't know until I started a larger plate. Other than that the rest of this stuff is super clean and well detailed. Thanks for your contributions to this hobby.
Fair point yea, i;ve said it in other videos when i review the printers so i forgot here.
this has to be the best beginners guide for commercial resin printers yet. I pretty much have gathered all the info from dozens of videos. This one would have been such a time save. Good job
thanks so much, I paraphrased this comment in an updated thumbnail.
I have been shying away from buying a 3D printer the last couple years as It just baffled me tbh.
But I love the idea of having the freedom to print multiple miniatures and busts whenever I need them for my dioramas.
This video has helped me gain a little perspective on the subject without a ton of unnecessary jargon.
Nice one sir 👏
Oh god, Thank You!
I’ve been scouring YT for ages trying to find a “keep it simple, stupid” video Just Like This.
Everything I come across is either too convoluted or too vague.
This is exactly the amount of information and detail I want.
You. Da. Man. 👊🏽
I literally wrote KISS after every section of my script, it took me 5 times longer to cut it down than to write it
Why does this man only have 16k subscribers?!?!
Its the algorithm man just have to support and share to help
17 and counting
19 now, almost 20. Wow I didn’t realise how much it had rocketed up in just a month!!!
Up to 22 now.
His content is premium. It’ll rise and rise steadily.
This video is top notch. I have been watching 3D printing videos for 3 hours now and this one of, if not the, absolute best. Thank you!!
Finally got a resin printer thanks you for the easy guide to getting started.
Awesome video! Big thanks lots of little tips and tricks i learned and i've been printing for a couple years now.
Excellent tutorial. Covered all the stages of the printer/resin setup process with clear and concise explanations. I now feel I have an understanding of what each setting does and the reason it might need altering, giving me the confidence to experiment with them on my own. Thanks very much.
thanks, check out my settinsg vdieo from this week for more of an in depth guide on the printing process
I really appreciate this video. I've been stressing so hard. I got a Mars 4 Max and a whole week of unsuccessful prints. I have had 3 and they were test prints
Hope it helped. i wish more people knew about this so they could start here, Resin printing is easy.
Just to let you know, my GKTwo finally arrived and after being mad nervous about even pouring grey toxic gunge iinto a tray and hoping it wont a) destroy the machine or b) my room, I'd like to say thanks for this noobs guide - it has helped me, and I have now printed 3 test plates at 1.45s, 1s and 0.75 exposure time (Anycubic grey bog standard water washable) - have to say they all come out pretty much the same - 15 posts and 12 holes - I was trying for 15/15 and then after all that unpaused to the point you said don't try for that, 12 or 13 is good enough make something cool lol. One tip I would give to anyone getting a GKtwo is if you finally find the instructions to do a firmware update (hint stick the files 1 by 1 on a USB stick using FAT32 or FAT - update literally 1 file only at a time on the usb stick) then you may find it reboots and comes back in Chinese only - after initial panic as I didn't know if it was trying to tell me to enter the printer name or press here to self destruct I took the plunge, entered a name 'GKtwo' at the prompt and then you're back to normal icons where you can go to settings and select english (or whatever you prefer) for the language - or ofc stick with Chinese if you wish.
Got cones of awesomeness going now at 0.75s exposure to see how they come out, but assuming not a disaster I will finally try printing something cool.
Thanks for the guidance and videos Mr.F Hammer - much appreciated, and although only at the very beginning of my adventure in printing it does seem like the GKtwo is a very nice machine (albeit no experience with anything else so nothing to compare it to haha)
Thanks so much mate, comments like this really cheer me up
Do you print in your bedroom?
@@Blade-go9ol I don't have a garage so the printer is in a spare bedroom.
This is the first comment I’ve made on hundreds of videos I’ve watched on printing, this it literally the most helpful video I’ve ever watched and thank you for including recommendations for getting files
It's comments like this that make everything with it. Thanks so much for your words
this is helping me so much specifically the portion around 12:47. i literally thought it just didnt print or something. thanks for helping a newby!
Damn I have watched so so so many 3d printing tutorials and this is the absolute first that actually explains printing itself, thank you, this is exactly what I needed, was looking for, it's brilliant
Everyone who want to start with 3D printer should see this vidéo. Thanks for sharing 👍
This is a great guide! I was having issues calibrating my phrozen mini 8k S and the whole "you're over-curing it and it's sticking to the FEP" thing was a real gamechanger. This was very clear and easy to follow.
Thanks so mcuh
How I wish all this information had been available when I started out on the first elegoo mars 1. I learned through lots of frustration. I'm going to send this to all my friends who are getting into the hobby.
love to get a list of good miniature companies that you would recommend supporting for print at home noobs. either drive or online on your site. thanks for these vids it is nice to have a non commercial view on what can be a tricky landscape to get honest information. cheers
Loot Studios
One Page Rules
Titan Forge
Mezgike
Some of my faves there are more
@@FauxHammer thank you
I'm really excited because I just bought my first 3D printer and your video helped me to understand a lot of things. Once I'll have the printer on my hands I'll test everything you recommend. Thanks a lot
I just started with a Halot One and am already getting pretty good results. The type of resin makes a huge difference for me (water wash yay, plant based nay) and the supports are a learning curve for sure but I'm learning and trying my luck with more complex miniatures.
yeah, supports really is another deal altogether!
great video, it got me through day one with my printer. thanks for putting in the effort
About the 3rd time I've ran across this video. Still helpful. Still pulling nuggets of info from it.
Great video. Using your "post/holes" instructions to try and dial in my new printer/resin settings. It's proving to be a lot more work that my old printer but I'm determined to figure it out.
It would be awesome if you could in your reviews share your settings for your printer/resin combo as a starting point. Compared to my old Mars 2 Pro and Chitubox 1.8, the new tools have me thoroughly flummoxed. So many more settings nowadays - and I can't figure out what half of them impact... LOL! I bought a Mars 4 Ultra and the Warhammer resin and getting the two to work together efficiently is proving to be a bit harder than I was expecting.
Just got my first resin printer (also first 3d printer) Tried printing anycubic test sample and 3 of the 8 samples stuck to the fep. Followed your advice, now printing great. Thank you very much 😊
YES! this is the exact comment I was looking forward to!! I love to see I've helped someone!
once again a wealth of information presented in such a way that is easily digestable even by someone who is brand new to this.
I am an idiot so i have to present in a simple way
Watched this video after buying my first resin printer (an Elegoo Mars 4 DLP), and got it printing with 100% success rate from day one. As FauxHammer says, it is a guide for getting things started quickly and without much hassle. Several useful tips and important details that are not on the manuals. From now on, I can learn at my own pace, knowing that Ihave the basics covered. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Why do you pour over the top of the plate instead of into the vat itself? I've seen both ways but is there a benefit of it not splashing or something?
Nah, it just looks cool
Thanks for this. I recently bought a Mars 3 pro. This gives me some confidence and cuts through a lot of the noise out there on how to start printing.
yep, i did this on my mars 3 pro and it worked.
Very nice turorial! best was you need to do an exposure test! ive litteraly printed a whole multi part figure out of the box with more or less no problems! i love this hobby!
Great video! And happy to see a lot of our minis printed in it.
thanks for supplying them!
Best guide channel ive seen yet
I know you're on the 3d printing thing, Ross but you're a great painter - id love to see some more tutorials
As soon as I have time, I'm getting back to it, i promise!
the post/hole count system was the most beneficial to me.
Yep, understanding how to read that test is key. so many people say look at the middle and guestimate if it's under/overexposed due to the merge of the logo.
umm, actually. that's not measurable.
holes and posts are a comparable metric everyone can use.
Silicone spatula, careful with plastic on the FEP
true
I hadn't watched this video before Ross but it's saved to my playlist now. Great stuff, thank you )O(
Best get-started video I've seen! My first resin printer arrives in a couple of days, and this vid will be in the background when I set up my Anycubic x 6ks!
thanks kindly.
Also worth noting you can set up an RERF test on this one, not sure which video I covered that in, may be my review of the 6kS , or the Mono 2
Excellent, helped a lot getting my first resin printer up and running.
Newb with Saturn 3 Ultra here.
My workflow till this point which works fine with unsupported minis:
1. Load the model into Lychee and rotate it like everyone sais you should
2. Generate !light! autosupports but high density
3. Check for/delete all islands in Lychee (i dont even bother to add or delete any support manually)
4. Export the whole thing as an stl
5. Import it into Chitubox
6. Slice it!
7. Check for/delete all islands in Chitubox again
8. Send it to the printer
Did this from my very first print (which wasnt an exposure test) and this works fine for a week now, without any failure. (approx. 15 prints, full plate)
Been lurking a while mate and watching your videos and figure it's time you get a sub. You're content is just that good.
thanks so much, I have more to come too. not sure why I'm trying to sell you on it anymore! i got the sub lol
i like to see content about mechanical accuracy , thank you for the videos great content
love your vids, this one especially is quite helpful, it reminds me i need to photo and pack up all my 40k stuff, to sell off to raise funds for a printer of some sort!
Thanks so much, I need to do the same
Fantastic video Mr. Ross. I'm really looking forward to the support video coming up soon.
i use a fermentation heating belt wrapped around the vat. its not perfect but it does keep the resin warm enough for my purposes. eventually i'm going to add a thermostat and temp probe to it to have it cycle as needed.
i did try that but got the wrong size band and it wouldn;t stay attached.
I also print in an unheated garage. I keep my printer (Saturn 2) and the resin I intend to use in a grow tent with a ceramic heater and thermostat controller. I've been printing all winter with no issues.
nice
Step 2 gave me "draw the rest of the owl" vibes 😂
Great guide, definitely going to refer back when/if I get a resin printer to go along with my vorons
lol, don't worry, it may fail. it's meant to just give you something to do
Getting my 3D printer room set up for my first printer this weekend. My hopes is that your video will save me some hassle when I start down this road. :)
let me know how it goes pelase
I've noticed this with the cooler nights comong in, when doing a first print i get like a harsh shift line in the print but it's nothing to
Do with the saturn 2 having wobble or that it's the cold thick resin at first then you get this diagonal line as model
It angled, the cold resin upto about half an inch high on the first prints then it's fine, as the resin is now at a warmer temperature and thinner! It's juat started happening this past few days with having left the windows open and the cooler airflow my room is upstairs whare i have it as normally always cooking in that room.
So what i have been doing is running a couple of validation matrix through it, not for really doing exposure test as thats great jsut now but to heat the vat up before going ahead and printing the part of one my model's im actually going to be having on display! If you Haven't got a vat warmer this is a good way to use the UV to Warm up to a nice temp to thin the resin out its working for me this so i would like to pass the tip on to maybe newer printer's as im sure you will know this but having to find it out yourself can be annoying wondering what the hecks happening eh lol! You maybe went through this at one time yourself? That vat warmer though is definitely something i will be getting!
@17:40 you state that if your supports are on the bed and the base is there, but the model isn't, that is easy just up exposure until they show up. This isn't the case though. I had this issue happen to me and I went to 2.5, 3. 3.5 4 at 7 seconds I figured it must be something else. It turned out that the supports were fine, but my resin was just SO brittle, that it would break. I switched resins and the same model printed at 2.3s without issue.
This is super helpful! Thanks for the no bs insight to getting started
Only correction here is what you said about going above 40s for base exposure. For older models of printers which did not use a monochrome LCD, then the base exposure is usually much much more than 40s. not common to new printers at all, but the older ones like Mars 1 will have longer base exposures
Fair point, I'm too modern
Excellent video!! I have a question: how often or when must do again bed leveleling except the first set up?
It depends on the printer. You’ll be able to tell when things stop printing in one side of the plate
Absolutely spot on thank you!! Halot Mage 8k is now working as it should
To level I use an old Fep sheet. Gives more accurate spacing from the screen/build plate.
Smart, I just leave the vat on
They also make inside the case heaters for a decent price. My basement gets below 20c and my heater keeps my resin at roughly 25c. Trick is fill the vat, then inlet it warm up for about 20 mins before I start it printing
A sneaky tip, you can warm up the resin in a bowl of hot water and with a little temperature probe get it bang on around the 20-25c range. I had so many fails early on in my print life and temperature was what took me from a rarely successful print to a very rare failed print. I wish the manufacturers would put this on the box or even on the printer itself. A little label about average temperature ranges to be aware of.
yeah I saw a few DIY options, but haven't seen one you can buy. happy to try one tho.
I bought the new Sonic 8ks and am soaking up all the info I can before it arrives. Ive watched this post twice. Looking forward to getting my first print done and with the info you provided here I am very hopeful my first print will turn out well. thanks!
If you follow this, your firstvleingbwill be the best file, assuming you have the 8k resin and you're not in a low temp environment. Should be fine
Thanks for this video bud. My saturn 3 is now dialled in for Sunlu clear green resin.
I’m on the fence about whether I should get a 3d printer. First up, I have to admit that I’m not the most technically minded guy and I’ve heard that 3d printing is very involved due to the numerous issues this still developing technology has (just what I’ve heard and I appreciate there are helpful folk like yourself who make videos to make life easier). Second thing is, I don’t (can’t, to be honest) spend a hell of a lot on miniatures. I generally tend to buy off of eBay, with very much mixed results. The temptation to get a 3d printer to print a much wider range of miniatures (I’m only really interested in painting ‘em, don’t play the games anymore) is great but I wanted to know if, in your opinion, it would be worth me getting one (and if so, which? Something fairly cheap but as reliable (and idiot proof) would be ideal).
Sorry, but of an essay there but I’d appreciate any advice you could give.
Get the GKTWO,(see my video) it's still messy, resin printing is messy. but it's designed out so many of the 3d printing issues that it will be easyier than any other for youu. but it;s expensive. if you spend money on minis like i do. tho. just don;t buy any this week lol
Cheers for the reply, really appreciate the advice.I reckon I’ll give it a go. The price of miniatures is getting pretty insane (plus 3d printing looks really fun.. when everything works).
a detailed video about properly supporting your models will be great... I tend to oversupport my models... I rarely get a print fail, but then again, I always wonder how to minimize supports and still get a successful print... sure, different resins require different supports but still..
anyway, looking forward to that video..
cheers!
Thanks, my first one will be a quick guide on auto supports, bit highly regimens The Lions Tower in twitch dir detailed guides. Requires lychee pro however
You can just get a small electric heater and put it in your room before printing and let it stabilize? Especially if you're in a small room it should be quick!
Awesome overview video for starting.
I was redirected here by Fauxhammer, and I appreciate the redirection haha. Looking forward to seeing the tips in the video!
Glad you watched it, hope it was helpful, or at least informative
@@FauxHammer It was, I definitely got some useful tips for when I get a new printer in that I'll need to apply. Can't wait for the support video still, but this was informative and helpful too.
Awesome vid , Simple explanation Unlike other channels that try and baffle you with bull. Thank you sir
From one beginner to any potential newcomers… he isn’t exaggerating about the USB drive that comes bundled with the printer. My first three test prints failed, and I thought the problem was due to user error-then I found out the problem was the USB itself, it already gave me problems right out the gate. My first print via Wifi was an immediate success, so don’t feel discouraged if this happens to you!
Another question - I see you pour your resin from the top of the plate and let it drip down as opposed to just pouring into the tray directly - is this to prevent bubbles or something? Otherwise it seems to be a messy way to do it :)
It's just more cinematic, that is all
Im still trying to get the same crisp details on my printd like the ones you showed here. Im not very tech savy and so far only 2 prints came out great, but the 28mm models seem to have very little contrast between details. They kinda look shallow compared to yours. I have a anycubic mono x 6k, still trying to figure out how to properly set up my printer so i dont get random quality of prints.
Great video. Very informative and thorough.
Loved this vid! you convinced me to buy the GKTwo and I cannot wait to start! Cheers Ross!
Bought GKtwo last month when your vid came out!
Thanks for the video, it came in the right moment for me, right now I am calibrating my GkTwo which I bought with your Code. I will keep following this guide until everything is ready to print armies.
Keep up the good work, will be waiting to the videos about supports.
this should get you set up and working within hours, this is exactly what i did on my GK TWO
Not sure if you had opportunity to test messing with Light power. I had the best result with 1.2sec exposure and 90% power on chitubox on Gktwo.
About to jump in to this next week 😊
Thanks brother, once again awesome assist for the newbies…. This newbie thanks you….
Thanks so much man!
Damn channel blew up rofl. Well deserved, thanks for all the info!
Great video. Can't wait to put it into practice when get my 1st resin printer set up.
let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the content.
I'm on step 3, dialing in my exposure times. Using Siraya Tech Fast on my Saturn 3 Ultra, I started with the Siraya Tech profile which was 30s base and 2.2s layer times, but the first print came out so stuck to the BUILD PLATE that any attempt to scrape it off just shattered it. I then lowered the times to 28s and 2s and the second print I was able to get off in one piece but noticed it had only a couple holes. So I'm still tweaking this but just wanted to post this here in case anyone else has a similar issue. I'm NOT expert but just from my own hands-on here it looks like if the print is really stuck to the build plate it might need lower exposure times.
im on the verge of buying my first 3d printer. but i also see that there is a wash and cure kit but it is pretty pricy imo, do i need this?
you will need to wash and post cure your prints.
cheapest way is a pickle-jar for wash and sunlight to cure.
but yeah, a dedicated wash and cure station really helps
Thanks for this starter guide!
Thanks for the comment
Something I see you do often, but you didn't mention in the video; why do you pour the resin onto the back of the build plate to fill the vat?
Just looks nicer on video, that is all. I get so many comments about it. It's become my salt bae move now
@@FauxHammer Hahaha, awesome.
How do you print multiple tests with different exposure times on the same build plate?
Hello, I'm new to this, important question, why not assemble the miniature in the 3D program and then print the complete figure? Or is there something I don't know about printing them in parts? I'm obviously talking about small miniatures like space marines.
Greetings from the Dominican Republic
hi again, i need help, I bought a Saturn 3, set it up by your video, elegoo ABS like 3.0 resin, layers -0,05 mm, base layers with an exposure time of 25s print perfectly, and then it starts to stick to the film and tear off, exposure time 1.7s - 1.8s
I challenge you.. to make a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K work. A quick scan of things will show you how often they just.. fail to print. To this day, my sonic mini 4k (only the mini 4k) it's single rail and flexing improperly secured top causes the whole thing to deflect when printing, often snapping supports. It's a mess. I've had mine since release and it's never printed right and sonic never did right by it, even though the engineers tried to help me. I dusted it off just this week and started printing. 3 print sets, everything worked. 4th failed, 5th failed, 6th failed, 7th failed, 8th failed 9th.. failed. No setting changes, no air-temp changes, and I only changed to an new resin bottle on 7,8, and 9 with continued behavior that was the same. Which included layer de-lamination above the "base" layers and snapping supports that previously were just fine. Again temp, same, resin (until 7,8,9), same, settings, same, file same everything. After every failure it was fully cleaned, vat cleaned, and z-calibrated. Thing is, for the first three, I didn't clean, didn't recalibrate. I only started after it started failing. It did this when I first got it. First 3-4 print sessions worked, and then for a full bottle and a half, nothing worked. Strange de-lamination, broken supports. It was a mess so I shelved it. A quick internet search will show you how often people have print failures with this model. Hell once it enters fail state it can't even print the default file reliably, failing that ring print at least half the time. Even the sonic engineers tried to help me make it work. I really should just bin the thing and buy an Elegoo or something else. Though from my searches every model with twin rails or support rods (sonic mini 8k S) don't get the reported problems.. so I can only imagine it's a problem with just the sonic mini 4k being utter trash.
Well, this is aimed at beginners who need yo bet started and confirm there's no issues with the printer.
Delamination souns like too few transition layers or too much of a citing jump between transition and normal
@@FauxHammer interesting point. My current firmware doesn't do transition layers. You have base and normal..wonder if they released firmware update for the printer...
@@meatybtz firmware? Or slicer... Because this is a gcode function I think
@@FauxHammer well the printer has been in the closet for the better part of more than a year. But there were a lot of functions that didn't appear to be enabled on the printer firmware back then. The aliasing for instance. You can check it in the slicer and it won't actually do anything in regards to the print. Even their test file has aliasing but it is clear when you print that it's not working right. The mini 4k was an odd duck in between a lot of gcode software changes and a lot of updates to chitu box, etc all at the same time. I have the latest chitu and lychee. But I haven't touched the firmware yet. I haven't even touched on the thermal issues. Back when I was in contact with the engineers by email we use an ir thermometer and noted that the resin in the vat broke 104f during long prints at 76f ambient temps. This could explain the variable results as LCDs are effected by temp and it's cooking hot during a print it might effect screen opacity response. I bought the printer on release and phrozen, while responsive, basically led me on past the return period so I was stuck with this monster and have spent time now and then attempting to make it reliable.
@@meatybtz I understand the frustration when you go through such an ordeal, but it is great to hear that Phrozen are responsive where so many others aren't
Thanksfully we've overcome a lot of that.
But transition layers are simple. i canl't imagine the printer needs an update.
It work by calculating your base exposure time and your normal exposure time. Then however many transition layers you decide, it gradually reduces exposure time on those layers evenly between the two. All that is g-code instruction to the printer for changes in exposure time son those layers. so i;m sure that would now fix that issue.
Don't use lychee to slice. as i say in this video.
I would be interested to know if you've encountered the problem of your prints experiencing surface cracking (often only after many weeks), especially for thicker parts? I've found it an issue on my Saturn 2 using eSun water washable resin. As far as I've been able to find out, water washable resins are more prone to this cracking (unfortunately, logistical constraints mean I am limited to using water-washable resins). Feedback I've had suggests that the following could be contributing: 1) Over-curing (I now limit minis to max 2 minutes in the curing station), 2) keeping uncured prints in the wash or exposed to water for too long (I now try to keep washing step to 2 min and try to dab/blow dry immediately upon removal), and 3) curing prints before the surface has fully dried (I now dry my uncured prints overnight before curing). However, I still can't print big pieces because of the high likelihood of them developing surface cracks after a few weeks/months. Do you have any thoughts?
Yep, a few times, usually always in water washable resins. Typically its over curing or liquid reain still inside cavities
Hey, I did slow down the setting transference portion of the video to the slowest setting and I'm completely lost at the end. You seem to be transferring the Lift and Retraction speeds, but it's not in any way that I understand. For example, the "Burn in layers" (bottom) lift distance is 65 & 65 and you set it as 65 & 150. Why? Thanks! 11:05
Hi, I have an Elegoo Saturn 3, and I'm trying to carry out an exposure test, but I don't understand why from 2 s to 3 s with steps of 0.10 s they all seem the same, or at least the holes are always overexposed and never perfect apart from the first 2.
Great videos as always. Probably you have spoken on all of these subjects in the past but i was not able to find it.
What are your recommendations on settings when in comes to the lift and retract speeds (vroom), the light off rest, the transition layer count, lift distances and so on. Could you share a bit about your preferences there please.
I am aware exposure times vary 100% on the resin and specific working conditions. But all those other settings i mentioned seem to be aimed around either optimizing the overall printing time or the lifespan of the screen (such as decent bottom exposure time around 5x your average layer exposure time, light off to let the screen cool, etc)
I would really appreciate your suggestions.
honestly, with those settings, I rarely care unless there's an issue. when I take my initial settings from either lychee or the defaults. they are good enough for me.
If you want to dial in a printer to that degree, I suggest heading to your printer's support group. If I can get a printer "working", that's good enough for me.
Just ordered my first 3d printer...has auto leveling...I am so surprised how little effort there is in pick up and go now
In your video you show 8 of the exposure test images being printed on the same plate at once. This implies to me that you can have a different exposure time for each object you place on the build plate, but I can't figure out how to do that in chitubox. Or were all 8 objects in your video the same exposure time and you would just testing the entire surface of your build plate? Right now the only way I can figure out to test 8 different exposure times is to do 8 different single prints. Is that how people normally do it or am I missing some cool trick?
It’s a special feature in Anycubic printers
@fauxHammer Are there any clearer shots of transferring settings from Lychee to Chitubox?
Do you want anti-aliasing on or off for calibration? Or does it matter? Watched the section about printing the exposure finder a few times and didn't hear anything about this.
Am I increasing my normal layer time or base layer time ?
Really curious why you pour your resin in over the raised plate? I usually pour in from the lip of the vat and give it a gentle stir before starting
It's a secret 😜
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I am brand new to 3d printing...and your videos have so much useful, helpful information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, advice and tips so that a person like me who is just starting down this rabbit-hole does not make costly mistakes. 👍
I have a question: in some parts of the video (at 6:40 for example) you show clips where the person in pouring the resin over the top of the build-plate while it is raised some distance above the vat -- does this not lead to the possibility of splatter and little droplets of resin splashing outside of the vat as the resin runs over the edge and drops down 4-6 inches into the vat below? Is there a reason for pouring the resin like that versus pouring it directly into the vat? Sorry for a dumb question, if the answer is obvious to others -- but as I said I am brand new to all of this (still waiting for my printer to arrive).
Thank you for your time and assistance. Subscribed/liked.
Thanks so much In return, this is one of the most common questions I get and the answer is. It just looks more cinematic. Don’t do this
Love your videos :) One question - How can you have different exposure times on different objects during the same print?
Tried to rivet it into my slicers but can't find the function.
It’s only a feature on Anycubic printers, I’ll o a video on it soon..
I have another question. Wash&Cure process has to be done exactly after tbe end of the printing or we can do it after some hours or a day?
Yeah you can do it later. I’ve left prints for days before washing. But keep them out of direct sunlight. During that time
So I can leave them into printer without any problem or you mean to take them out of printer first and then leave them?
@@manosjj8404either, just keep them away from uv light whilst you’re waiting
Why do you pour the resin on top of the build plate?
Temp is highly critical to polymerization speed and "completeness" investing in a tent with a temp controller is a 100% success route for prints.
Or buy a GK Two?
I got four good prints and that was with red clear resin. As soon as I changed to gray opaque I haven't got it to print a single print.
Follow this and it should work.