This will be my first trans rebuild (attempt) and the way you walk us through is amazing. Thank you for doing this in a calm, walking pace. I am almost looking forward to it now
Not relevant to me, but still good education. Man you are thorough! These videos are going to be such a valuable resource to those of us willing/confident/capable enough to do these jobs on our own.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I'm learning lots of little tricks, in this field, from you! Super valuable stuff here! Too many people making videos on complex stuff like this, don't even come close to covering all the finite details, like you do! You're covering vast amounts of info, in fairly brief videos! You're going to go far on YT man! Mark my words!
If a video like this was available exactly last June 2023 , i would have fixed my ford transmission myself. i had a valve body and a torque converter that needed to be changed with some solenoids that needed to be replaced as well, it cost me some 5600 to replace the whole thing. now i will just download this video and use it next time my transmission fails thanks for the upload chief
My 2017 Ford XLT also has this transmission F635. Exactly the same issues you pointed out. Torque converter, shift solenoid B, Front Pump, Center support on the direct clutch problems, Good video
Great video. Thanks. I have a 2017 explorer with the 6f35. I suspect the torque converter has gone bad. It trys to stall at idle. As soon as it happened i shut the vehicle off and it hasnt been driven since. I have also noticed the lockup engaging and disengaging with under a light throttle at cruise. Car has 93k miles and shifts fine other wise. Do you think id be safe just replacing the torque converter?
I've got a full rebuild video now. The best thing would be tearing it down and Inspecting it, but you may be fine with just a converter and new front pump (common failure)
This tear down helped because i got to see where the rod goes that connects to the shift position sensor. My dad replaced the shift position sensor at the top (per the code thrown), and now it won't go into Park, any ideas? Thanks I'm advanced!
Big Ben!!! First off I want to thank you for the valuable information you put in these videos. I love it. Secondly I have a question for you. I noticed that the valve body conductor plate is a common for the plug being broken that Sticks through the valve body cover. Is this as simple as removing the valve body cover and replacing the valve body conductor plate that sits on top of valve body? Any information on this Matter I would greatly appreciate, Thanks for all that you do! - Nick
just watched your video and I think you may have found my problem. i have a 2013 fusion with only 45 thousand miles. One day while it was warm, I got a delayed shift on the reverse. I would put into reverse and have to rev the engine up to get it to engage. then it would slam in. it only happens when its warmed up. when cold no problem. anyways thanks for the video it gives me somewhere to look.
hi Ben still have not got the car fixed. been to two ford dealers and they both want to replace the transmission. do you have a shop and if so where is it? I am in upstate new york near syacuse.
Excellent video - thank you. Out of interest, could you change the solenoids without removing the gearbox? My box has started giving a clink between gears 2&3. Thanks
Yes, just pull the side cover off, remove the leadframe and you'll be able to get the SSB out. You'll want to order a replacement with the same band number. Usually it's 2 or 3. It'll be engraved on your old one
Hello Ben, Awesome video and much appreciated. Sorry if I may have missed a listing, but can you recommend where to source the parts/master kit mentioned? And maybe there’s a list of part numbers? I’m rebuilding my daughter’s 2013 Escape trans (whining pump, etc.), and your info is super helpful! Thx, Bill
Hi, I have a full rebuild video I recently published which may help you further. As far as rebuilding, I'd get a raybestos clutch kit and a motorcraft 7153 master seal kit
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Hello again. This unit looks pretty darn clean inside and no burnt metals. Looking to order parts and Raybestos guided me to Transpart. Looking at buying Master kit with pistons, fibers, no steels, OE pump, Reman Torque Conv. and a filter. Can you advise if there are any other companies that you would recommend I check out? Thanks for the help! Also, should I replace the 2-3 solenoid if there were no problems there? Thanks Ben!
@billgartner3378 since none of the clutches are burnt, you can only do the pump, converter and filter if you want to save money. But I've used an excedy clutch kit from ebay on one before. Otherwise I use oem on customers cars
i had no reverse in my 2009 escape 6f35 4wd, i took out the shift cilinoid plate and put in a new one and moved the ball bearing back where it belonged. worked like a charm and reverse is fixed. i drove the suv about 100 miles and now i have a light scraping noise from what sounds like the direct support tower/ intermediate clutch piston area. i opened the case bolts from the drivers wheel side and some silvery fluid came out. considering opening it up to fix it or ordering an ebay transmission from a wrecked suv. any opinions?
Question regarding caracterization and solenoid relearn.. Im installing a used 6f35 from a junk yard in an 18 escape. Problem is trans did not have the sticker on the casing with the codes.. I heard They can be found in the valve body also.. Reason why im here watching your video.. Did you notice any codes with that info? Or any idea what i can do regarding my programming problem? Tia!
Hi. the connector that plugs into the front pan on the valve body - unplug it. The solenoid strategy is stamped onto the side of the where it plugs in to. Might need to shine a light and squint
Hi Ben, Great videos! I'm building the 6F35 out of my daughter's 2013 Escape. My first transaxel. It was whining like an worn power steering pump and will slip and shudder when warm. I'm assuming the pump. It's out and the case is split open. The fluid doesn't smell burnt and no chunks of metal, but a moderate amount of fine metal in the bottom and on the magnet. What are the "must replace" update parts to order for this unit besides a master kit and torque converter?
Besides the master kit, and torque converter and pump, buy a new loaded center support 7L328, get a new forward clutch pack snap ring (that first giant snap ring in the stack) because it can rotate and break the case. Replace solenoid B, or better yet replace the whole valve body and solenoid body. Replace the direct/OD drum to prevent firm 3rd gear upshifts or at least reseal it and inspect bushings. That about covers it. And yes your whining noise is the pump
Quick question: Is there a repair kit to replace the interior parts? And 6 the oil pump? Today, I removed my transmission on my garage. It showed a code with one stuck selenoid, but i took it down to clean it real nice as it had fine metal dust i think that's what created a stuck selenoid. I dont want to pay 4k for someone to open ot it up and just clean it, and it is not working properly, as I believe I can do it even though I have never worked on a transmission. Do i need special tool to put it back together? And how can i clean the parts? Do you have a put back video of this transmission?
@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you for the reply... I am about to watch the other video. Question: How can I test my torque converter to see if it needs replacement?
Question about the center support. Are you saying to replace the entire piece or is the stuff inside of it is what I can get by with to replace. Low budget and was wondering.
Yes, it's best to replace it. The forward piston wears into the support. But, with a special tool, you can remove the pistons on a press and inspect the support. The special tool is available from rotunda. It's more expensive than a reman support
great video. i had a p0751 code stuck A solenoid. solonoid seemed to checked out according to book. changed fluid twice, still real dirty within 100 miles. it's on a 2013 ford escape. thanks
I would check for wiring harness chafing on the main control cover studs. If the wires look ok, try replacing shift solenoid A, and the leadframe. If the concern is still present, remove the main control and air test the forward clutch. Overhaul the transmission if the forward clutch fails. That's a common failure.
My wife's 2014 Ford Escape started making a whining noise. Upon inspection of it I found that it blew out a CV Axle Boot, I replaced with a new CV Axle, topped off fluid and it still makes the whiny noise. No slipping, everything shifts well. From my knowledge from experience and research, I suspect the pump is going out. Trying to make my mind up on what to do. Still owe around 10K on this thing. I was totally against her buying it because I found several issues with it and Ford repaired the issues I found before I would sign off on it. Has 146,000 miles on it. Other issue with this unit is that the service engine now notification comes up but there are no codes at all that comes up with it. Concerning the transmission issue, when it happened with my wife, the service transmission now warning came up, still no codes with it. It has the 1.6 Liter ecoboost engine.
Yes that's definitely a pump failure. I'm sorry to hear about your situation, owing 10. But the transmission is going to cost about 7 or 8 grand. You could try to save a couple grand and have it tore down instead. You may have got lucky and the pump not have wrecked much else. But there's still lots of common internal issues which should be addressed while opened up. So the cost savings dwindle down
Where would one get the service tool for the direct clutch. I have a 2013 Fusion with about 180k miles and I'm 95% sure my pump is failing/failed, sounds like a power steering pump low on fluid. If I'm in there replacing the pump, at 180k, I feel like it would be foolish to not do a full service. would you agree?
I think it would be a good idea to freshen it up, at least do a center support/pistons, overdrive frictions and steels, pump, converter, valve body and solenoid body. (or at least inspect them). the fluid breaks down a lot on these and causes some wear. I have a video on a full rebuild on these
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the response. Is there a particular assembly grease you recommend? I don't want to get just anyone off the shelf and it not be compatible with the Mercon LV fluid or something and destroy all my hard work. Because that's my kind of luck.
My 2015 ford escape shudders only when in gear and AT a stop, kinda shakes / shudders like a bad motor mount but it’s not. Also idles fine in N or P just load at stop in drive or reverse .. I think it’s the tq converter. What do you think?
hey man i really need some help, the tip of my driver side cv axle snapped off from the c-ring and stayed inside the transmission, could you tell me what area from your video could that part be? just for reference
What are the chances of just the pump needing replaced? My 16’ Escape 4wd is making a horrible sound when idling in park/reverse/drive and quiets in neutral. It is not a consistent sound, but also it doesn’t want to engage when in gear unless it is cold and at that point it doesn’t go far. I have been told it’s the pump but not sure if it’s something I can just change the pump and filter or needs a complete rebuild. Already drained and filled twice and the fluid was black but didn’t smell horribly burnt and very little metallic shavings in the fluid.
@@alaric98 I think replacing the pump and filter is worth doing, yeah, especially for DIY purposes trying to save money. I've got a full overhaul video for this transmission, if you want to take it apart and clean/inspect. You dont need to take apart the center support or direct/OD for that. Just replace the overdrive clutches because the pump failure probably burnt them
So I have a 2015 Ford Escape I hear whinny noise coming from the transmission.I have a code for P0766 shift solenoid D stuck off .I did an oil change and the whinny noise still there. Sometimes when I try to drive it’ll lose power and won’t go no where.Rpm just up and down when losing power. When starting it up sounds like whining and grinding.Just started doing this .Wondering how can I fix this problem .Does the torque converter need to be replaced or the whole transmission .
That's a front pump failure. Extremely common. Caused from (my theory) the fluid breaking down and restricting the filter. Replace the pump, converter, valve body, solenoid body, friction plates, and determine any other damage (check and replace the 7L328 support and pistons). Service the transmission every 30,000 miles to prevent this next time.
Hi, I have a problem with this gearbox - the joint that goes into the differential has vertical play on the driver's side. Apparently the housing in the place of the bearings is wearing out and that is why there are vibrations while driving.
Hey. That may just be a worn bushing for that axle. Its installed in the case. It's also possible the bushing scored the surface of the axle if that's the situation.
I'm about to take one of these apart on my girlfriends 2016 Escape. Curious, could you help explain what would cause it to refuse to move? I limped it home about 2 miles from home. it would drive and shift fine for about 15 seconds every time I would restart the car. Currently it won't rev above 2.5kish while in drive, and will not move at all. No CEL. Great video by the way, this will help a lot during teardown.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the quick response. No leaks found, but the pump was definitely whining loudly the entire way home. I decided to try a flush, probably the first time the poor thing was ever serviced. Didn't find any metal in the old fluid but the stuff looked fairly thick like motor oil. The pump still whines after the flush now. So at the very least, I can start with bad pump then, eh?
@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey man it did appear to be the oil pump so i got the whole thing torn down, and got all my parts to install. Just one question if you could answer: the rings for the Hub Support Ring are stiff, and maluable. Do I just send em home and stretch the hell out of them? They are square shaped rings and fit perfectly on their corners but awfully loose when seated in normal.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I thought it was the axle seal, I replaced the seal and still the same problem, I also replaced the shaft seal and it still leaks
I've a nasty problem my 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L was hit on drivers side wheel and broke off CV axle and left end piece in transmission . What would be the best way to remove it ? It broke off clean flush against tranny and there's nothibng to grab a hold of . Is there a metal obstruction that would prevent pushing in approximately 3/8 in rod from other side banging it out ? Or get a piece and weld it to the broken piece and pull it out from drivers side ? Or bite the bullet get the seal out wasting all that fluid and replacing both fluid and seal ?
You can try knocking it out from the other side(with the other axle out) the spider gears may get in the way. That's the easiest thing to try first. And definitely replace the seal and inspect the bushing on the problem side
@BigBensCarsAndCycles I have a ? For you I have my 6f35 out of a 2014 transit connect 2.5 front wheel drive 6 speed automatic out and disassembled I am having a hard time with the clutchs they have some small hot spots on them but they don't look burnt I found the filter was clogged with alot of metal shavings though and I know I should just replace them but I'm strapped for cash at this time I have more time than money so my ? Is can I send you some picks of the clutches and steels could you maybe tell me if they are to far to keep using or not
@BigBensCarsAndCycles I have a ? For you I have my 6f35 out of a 2014 transit connect 2.5 front wheel drive 6 speed automatic out and disassembled I am having a hard time with the clutchs they have some small hot spots on them but they don't look burnt I found the filter was clogged with alot of metal shavings though and I know I should just replace them but I'm strapped for cash at this time I have more time than money so my ? Is can I send you some picks of the clutches and steels could you maybe tell me if they are to far to keep using or not
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles does the trans have to be removed from the car to get to the solenoids? i am looking at a used 6f35 for 1600 and i really want to avoid it if i can.
What are the weak points with this transmission? Where did ford mess up? Also how come sompe peoples get over 200k with these but others need replacement agter 80k?
Weak points mainly are the torque converter and pump. Also shift solenoid B and the forward piston/center support. If you service it every 30k miles you'll get more life out of it. The fluid breaks down quick and clogs the filter and hurts the pump
No, check out my new video for 6f35 full rebuild if you want to. I show how to pull it out on that when I start building it. The valve body has to come out
Hi im actually doing this job my self because ive payed 3 shop's to rebuild or fix problems this last shop only lasted 15k miles first trip car was doing great 💯 % . Driving a long and see smoke transmission fluid leaking from bell housing turns out seal behind converter was leaking also saw a crack in fly wheel replaced both and i installed trans back in car and same thang still leaking. Would this be a seal In the pump area? Of the transmission to have a pressure leak note car shifted fine no problems just leaking needing some help thanks
When the flexplate (flywheel) cracks, it can cause the torque converter to wobble and damage the pump bushing. I recommend replacing the flexplate, torque converter and front pump
Can you please provide some guidance? My 2014 ford escape 1.6 liter front wheel drive with 180000 miles will occasionally loose power stilghly when acceleraring, I pulled the following code : P0741 and PO744. I changed the transmission fluid; I did 4 drains and refills. I also changed the valve body and updated the valve Solenoid strategy number and the solenoid body ID. I resetted the learned transmission adaptation but the issue is still there. Is the torque convertor out?
Yes that's a torque converter issue. You can try adding lubegard shudderfix before replacing it. Let it idle for 30 min to let the additive work in. If needed, do 15 to 30 wide open throttle runs from 50mph to 75mph to continue working the additive in. If that doesn't fix it, replace the torque converter and front pump. Good luck
thank you... I had a po751 code shift solenoid A stuck.. checked A solenoid according to book. it checked good changed fluid twice, was way dirty both times within 100 miles... it's on 2013 ford escape...
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I had a p0751 code, stuck A solenoid.. checked out according to rebuild book. checked out good.. changed fluid twice, still real dirty within 100 miles...
Hi, you can try servicing the transmission and adding friction modifier (lubegard shudder fix) if you think it may be converter shudder. But If it happens during shifts, you may have a sticking solenoid or worn piston seal
Hey, starting out looking for parts as I’m replacing this myself, I can’t for the life of me find the parts I need online, and would greatly prefer to not go junk yard tear down searching. Any help?
Are you trying to get a part number for the transmission assembly or something else? If you need the trans part number please give me your vin and thumbs up this comment so I get a notification
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles The two main parts you recommend a replacement for every time the front pump. And center support. Can not find replacements for. My vin is 3FA6P0HRDXR237955. Any knowledge or help would be appreciated.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey man, I got into my tear down and it went perfect. The rebuild…my sprag assembly is stuck. It’s one way in and out and it got stuck going back in, any suggestions? I’m 100% willing to cut it out and get a new one
Hello I’m thinking I need to drain and fill again my wife 2017 edge with the 6f35 in it shudders on hard acceleration like merging into traffic I drain and filled fluid got a lot better but still there slightly thinking I should do another drain and fill 140k miles
@user-zv6em1ow6l if the tcc is stabile at 0 it may be something else. I think it's a misfire. Perhaps you can hold down the accelerator long enough for the engine light to begin flashing, then it'll set a code
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles It does go faster when giving it gas. Also noticed fluid drains out pretty good from driver side axel seal But only when a gear is selected. Not sure if that would cause a pressure issue. Solenoid B is the very top one on the valve body right?
@@mordeth141 I'm just now seeing your reply. Also, I'm questioning why I recommended replacing solenoid B. If you still need help, I think you need to tear the transmission down and investigate further. Somethings damaged, and the transmission can't engage neutral.
This will be my first trans rebuild (attempt) and the way you walk us through is amazing. Thank you for doing this in a calm, walking pace. I am almost looking forward to it now
Not relevant to me, but still good education. Man you are thorough! These videos are going to be such a valuable resource to those of us willing/confident/capable enough to do these jobs on our own.
I'm glad you enjoyed! Thanks for watching
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I'm learning lots of little tricks, in this field, from you! Super valuable stuff here! Too many people making videos on complex stuff like this, don't even come close to covering all the finite details, like you do! You're covering vast amounts of info, in fairly brief videos! You're going to go far on YT man! Mark my words!
If a video like this was available exactly last June 2023 , i would have fixed my ford transmission myself. i had a valve body and a torque converter that needed to be changed with some solenoids that needed to be replaced as well, it cost me some 5600 to replace the whole thing. now i will just download this video and use it next time my transmission fails thanks for the upload chief
There is very little to almost nothing online showing what the inside of this transmission even looks like. Thanks for your upload
My 2017 Ford XLT also has this transmission F635. Exactly the same issues you pointed out. Torque converter, shift solenoid B, Front Pump, Center support on the direct clutch problems, Good video
Happy to help!
What is a XLT other than a trim level?
@@larryreno8293
Forgot to type “explorer” XLT. I also misspelled 6F35 tranny as F635, thanks for the correction
@@bobbygarcia8288 got it. Didn’t even catch the F635. Is the explorer a V6 ?
@@larryreno8293
Ecoboost 2.3L L4, FWD
this is excellent very well done
I'm glad it helped you!
Great video. Thanks. I have a 2017 explorer with the 6f35. I suspect the torque converter has gone bad. It trys to stall at idle. As soon as it happened i shut the vehicle off and it hasnt been driven since. I have also noticed the lockup engaging and disengaging with under a light throttle at cruise. Car has 93k miles and shifts fine other wise. Do you think id be safe just replacing the torque converter?
I've got a full rebuild video now. The best thing would be tearing it down and Inspecting it, but you may be fine with just a converter and new front pump (common failure)
Made by getrag.......its not a fomoco product
Excellent video . Any preference on rebuild kit to buy? I need to rebuild one and need to find a good kit.
Hi, get a front pump, torque converter, valve body, solenoid body, loaded center support, and here is a overhaul kit: amzn.to/3SyTFfb
This tear down helped because i got to see where the rod goes that connects to the shift position sensor. My dad replaced the shift position sensor at the top (per the code thrown), and now it won't go into Park, any ideas? Thanks I'm advanced!
Any videos showing the special tool to disassemble the direct clutch? Is it necessary or can you make something else work?
@@FleetTech97 I take that apart on the 6f35 full rebuild video
Big Ben!!! First off I want to thank you for the valuable information you put in these videos. I love it. Secondly I have a question for you. I noticed that the valve body conductor plate is a common for the plug being broken that Sticks through the valve body cover. Is this as simple as removing the valve body cover and replacing the valve body conductor plate that sits on top of valve body? Any information on this Matter I would greatly appreciate, Thanks for all that you do! - Nick
Hi! Glad to help. Yes it's that simple. It's held on with 5 small torx screws
You the man! Thank you and have a great year 🙏🏻💪🏻
just watched your video and I think you may have found my problem. i have a 2013 fusion with only 45 thousand miles. One day while it was warm, I got a delayed shift on the reverse. I would put into reverse and have to rev the engine up to get it to engage. then it would slam in. it only happens when its warmed up. when cold no problem. anyways thanks for the video it gives me somewhere to look.
@@joearpino glad to help! I would start with replacing shift solenoid B
hi Ben still have not got the car fixed. been to two ford dealers and they both want to replace the transmission. do you have a shop and if so where is it? I am in upstate new york near syacuse.
Excellent video - thank you.
Out of interest, could you change the solenoids without removing the gearbox?
My box has started giving a clink between gears 2&3.
Thanks
Yes, just pull the side cover off, remove the leadframe and you'll be able to get the SSB out. You'll want to order a replacement with the same band number. Usually it's 2 or 3. It'll be engraved on your old one
Thank you for responding.
Much appreciated
Hello Ben, Awesome video and much appreciated. Sorry if I may have missed a listing, but can you recommend where to source the parts/master kit mentioned? And maybe there’s a list of part numbers? I’m rebuilding my daughter’s 2013 Escape trans (whining pump, etc.), and your info is super helpful!
Thx, Bill
Hi, I have a full rebuild video I recently published which may help you further. As far as rebuilding, I'd get a raybestos clutch kit and a motorcraft 7153 master seal kit
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Hello again. This unit looks pretty darn clean inside and no burnt metals. Looking to order parts and Raybestos guided me to Transpart. Looking at buying Master kit with pistons, fibers, no steels, OE pump, Reman Torque Conv. and a filter. Can you advise if there are any other companies that you would recommend I check out? Thanks for the help! Also, should I replace the 2-3 solenoid if there were no problems there? Thanks Ben!
@billgartner3378 since none of the clutches are burnt, you can only do the pump, converter and filter if you want to save money. But I've used an excedy clutch kit from ebay on one before. Otherwise I use oem on customers cars
i had no reverse in my 2009 escape 6f35 4wd, i took out the shift cilinoid plate and put in a new one and moved the ball bearing back where it belonged. worked like a charm and reverse is fixed. i drove the suv about 100 miles and now i have a light scraping noise from what sounds like the direct support tower/ intermediate clutch piston area. i opened the case bolts from the drivers wheel side and some silvery fluid came out. considering opening it up to fix it or ordering an ebay transmission from a wrecked suv. any opinions?
Question regarding caracterization and solenoid relearn.. Im installing a used 6f35 from a junk yard in an 18 escape. Problem is trans did not have the sticker on the casing with the codes.. I heard They can be found in the valve body also.. Reason why im here watching your video.. Did you notice any codes with that info? Or any idea what i can do regarding my programming problem?
Tia!
Hi. the connector that plugs into the front pan on the valve body - unplug it. The solenoid strategy is stamped onto the side of the where it plugs in to. Might need to shine a light and squint
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks alot for your help and quick answer. I will look for it.. cant thank you enough!!
Greetings bro, is that transmission bad?
Hi Ben, Great videos! I'm building the 6F35 out of my daughter's 2013 Escape. My first transaxel. It was whining like an worn power steering pump and will slip and shudder when warm. I'm assuming the pump. It's out and the case is split open. The fluid doesn't smell burnt and no chunks of metal, but a moderate amount of fine metal in the bottom and on the magnet. What are the "must replace" update parts to order for this unit besides a master kit and torque converter?
Besides the master kit, and torque converter and pump, buy a new loaded center support 7L328, get a new forward clutch pack snap ring (that first giant snap ring in the stack) because it can rotate and break the case. Replace solenoid B, or better yet replace the whole valve body and solenoid body. Replace the direct/OD drum to prevent firm 3rd gear upshifts or at least reseal it and inspect bushings. That about covers it. And yes your whining noise is the pump
Quick question: Is there a repair kit to replace the interior parts? And 6 the oil pump? Today, I removed my transmission on my garage. It showed a code with one stuck selenoid, but i took it down to clean it real nice as it had fine metal dust i think that's what created a stuck selenoid. I dont want to pay 4k for someone to open ot it up and just clean it, and it is not working properly, as I believe I can do it even though I have never worked on a transmission. Do i need special tool to put it back together? And how can i clean the parts? Do you have a put back video of this transmission?
Here's my full rebuild video ua-cam.com/video/lrMZ2m-Zji0/v-deo.html and I got the parts from ebay
@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you for the reply... I am about to watch the other video. Question: How can I test my torque converter to see if it needs replacement?
Question about the center support. Are you saying to replace the entire piece or is the stuff inside of it is what I can get by with to replace. Low budget and was wondering.
Yes, it's best to replace it. The forward piston wears into the support. But, with a special tool, you can remove the pistons on a press and inspect the support. The special tool is available from rotunda. It's more expensive than a reman support
great video. i had a p0751 code stuck A solenoid. solonoid seemed to checked out according to book. changed fluid twice, still real dirty within 100 miles. it's on a 2013 ford escape. thanks
I would check for wiring harness chafing on the main control cover studs. If the wires look ok, try replacing shift solenoid A, and the leadframe. If the concern is still present, remove the main control and air test the forward clutch. Overhaul the transmission if the forward clutch fails. That's a common failure.
My wife's 2014 Ford Escape started making a whining noise. Upon inspection of it I found that it blew out a CV Axle Boot, I replaced with a new CV Axle, topped off fluid and it still makes the whiny noise. No slipping, everything shifts well. From my knowledge from experience and research, I suspect the pump is going out. Trying to make my mind up on what to do. Still owe around 10K on this thing. I was totally against her buying it because I found several issues with it and Ford repaired the issues I found before I would sign off on it. Has 146,000 miles on it. Other issue with this unit is that the service engine now notification comes up but there are no codes at all that comes up with it. Concerning the transmission issue, when it happened with my wife, the service transmission now warning came up, still no codes with it. It has the 1.6 Liter ecoboost engine.
Yes that's definitely a pump failure. I'm sorry to hear about your situation, owing 10. But the transmission is going to cost about 7 or 8 grand. You could try to save a couple grand and have it tore down instead. You may have got lucky and the pump not have wrecked much else. But there's still lots of common internal issues which should be addressed while opened up. So the cost savings dwindle down
Great video 👍💪
Thanks!
Where would one get the service tool for the direct clutch. I have a 2013 Fusion with about 180k miles and I'm 95% sure my pump is failing/failed, sounds like a power steering pump low on fluid. If I'm in there replacing the pump, at 180k, I feel like it would be foolish to not do a full service. would you agree?
I think it would be a good idea to freshen it up, at least do a center support/pistons, overdrive frictions and steels, pump, converter, valve body and solenoid body. (or at least inspect them). the fluid breaks down a lot on these and causes some wear. I have a video on a full rebuild on these
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the response. Is there a particular assembly grease you recommend? I don't want to get just anyone off the shelf and it not be compatible with the Mercon LV fluid or something and destroy all my hard work. Because that's my kind of luck.
My 2015 ford escape shudders only when in gear and AT a stop, kinda shakes / shudders like a bad motor mount but it’s not. Also idles fine in N or P just load at stop in drive or reverse .. I think it’s the tq converter. What do you think?
I think your torque converter clutch is damaged and not fully releasing.
hey man i really need some help, the tip of my driver side cv axle snapped off from the c-ring and stayed inside the transmission, could you tell me what area from your video could that part be? just for reference
The final drive gear (diff)
Is this just for educational purposes or is this to rebuild to fix an issue.
It was a repair. I've got a full rebuild video too
What are the chances of just the pump needing replaced? My 16’ Escape 4wd is making a horrible sound when idling in park/reverse/drive and quiets in neutral. It is not a consistent sound, but also it doesn’t want to engage when in gear unless it is cold and at that point it doesn’t go far. I have been told it’s the pump but not sure if it’s something I can just change the pump and filter or needs a complete rebuild. Already drained and filled twice and the fluid was black but didn’t smell horribly burnt and very little metallic shavings in the fluid.
Very high probability it's the pump whining
Is it worth replacing just the pump and filter or would I need to replace all the other suggested parts?
@@alaric98 I think replacing the pump and filter is worth doing, yeah, especially for DIY purposes trying to save money. I've got a full overhaul video for this transmission, if you want to take it apart and clean/inspect. You dont need to take apart the center support or direct/OD for that. Just replace the overdrive clutches because the pump failure probably burnt them
So I have a 2015 Ford Escape I hear whinny noise coming from the transmission.I have a code for P0766 shift solenoid D stuck off .I did an oil change and the whinny noise still there. Sometimes when I try to drive it’ll lose power and won’t go no where.Rpm just up and down when losing power. When starting it up sounds like whining and grinding.Just started doing this .Wondering how can I fix this problem .Does the torque converter need to be replaced or the whole transmission .
That's a front pump failure. Extremely common. Caused from (my theory) the fluid breaking down and restricting the filter. Replace the pump, converter, valve body, solenoid body, friction plates, and determine any other damage (check and replace the 7L328 support and pistons). Service the transmission every 30,000 miles to prevent this next time.
Where are you located?
Hi, I have a problem with this gearbox - the joint that goes into the differential has vertical play on the driver's side. Apparently the housing in the place of the bearings is wearing out and that is why there are vibrations while driving.
Hey. That may just be a worn bushing for that axle. Its installed in the case. It's also possible the bushing scored the surface of the axle if that's the situation.
I'm about to take one of these apart on my girlfriends 2016 Escape. Curious, could you help explain what would cause it to refuse to move? I limped it home about 2 miles from home. it would drive and shift fine for about 15 seconds every time I would restart the car. Currently it won't rev above 2.5kish while in drive, and will not move at all. No CEL.
Great video by the way, this will help a lot during teardown.
Happy to help! Does your transmission whine? If so that's a pump failure. Make sure there's no leaks first
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for the quick response. No leaks found, but the pump was definitely whining loudly the entire way home. I decided to try a flush, probably the first time the poor thing was ever serviced. Didn't find any metal in the old fluid but the stuff looked fairly thick like motor oil. The pump still whines after the flush now. So at the very least, I can start with bad pump then, eh?
@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey man it did appear to be the oil pump so i got the whole thing torn down, and got all my parts to install. Just one question if you could answer: the rings for the Hub Support Ring are stiff, and maluable. Do I just send em home and stretch the hell out of them? They are square shaped rings and fit perfectly on their corners but awfully loose when seated in normal.
@@keech2540 would you mind joining my discord or Facebook group and posting pictures of this?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Awesome yeah I will do that.
Hello, I have a problem, oil is leaking from the 6f35 gearbox, I replaced the seal on the gearbox and oil is still leaking, what could be the cause?
@@andrzej784 wheres it leaking from?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I thought it was the axle seal, I replaced the seal and still the same problem, I also replaced the shaft seal and it still leaks
What is a good grease to use when replacing parts in a trans? I found Lucas oil brand "red and tacky #2 grease. Is it ok for me to use that?
No, I wouldn't use grease. I'd use trans assembly lube or Vaseline amzn.to/3ya8RZU
I've a nasty problem my 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L was hit on drivers side wheel and broke off CV axle and left end piece in transmission . What would be the best way to remove it ? It broke off clean flush against tranny and there's nothibng to grab a hold of . Is there a metal obstruction that would prevent pushing in approximately 3/8 in rod from other side banging it out ? Or get a piece and weld it to the broken piece and pull it out from drivers side ? Or bite the bullet get the seal out wasting all that fluid and replacing both fluid and seal ?
You can try knocking it out from the other side(with the other axle out) the spider gears may get in the way. That's the easiest thing to try first. And definitely replace the seal and inspect the bushing on the problem side
Thank you buddy for making this
You're welcome!
@BigBensCarsAndCycles
I have a ? For you I have my 6f35 out of a 2014 transit connect 2.5 front wheel drive 6 speed automatic out and disassembled I am having a hard time with the clutchs they have some small hot spots on them but they don't look burnt
I found the filter was clogged with alot of metal shavings though and I know I should just replace them but I'm strapped for cash at this time I have more time than money so my ? Is can I send you some picks of the clutches and steels could you maybe tell me if they are to far to keep using or not
@BigBensCarsAndCycles
I have a ? For you I have my 6f35 out of a 2014 transit connect 2.5 front wheel drive 6 speed automatic out and disassembled I am having a hard time with the clutchs they have some small hot spots on them but they don't look burnt
I found the filter was clogged with alot of metal shavings though and I know I should just replace them but I'm strapped for cash at this time I have more time than money so my ? Is can I send you some picks of the clutches and steels could you maybe tell me if they are to far to keep using or not
@@reliableservice3886 you can send pics on my discord or Facebook group
are the solenoids a common failure point?
@@packrcch yeah, shift solenoid B for the direct clutch. Over time, a few more can stick a little and cause firm shifts
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles does the trans have to be removed from the car to get to the solenoids?
i am looking at a used 6f35 for 1600 and i really want to avoid it if i can.
What are the weak points with this transmission? Where did ford mess up? Also how come sompe peoples get over 200k with these but others need replacement agter 80k?
Weak points mainly are the torque converter and pump. Also shift solenoid B and the forward piston/center support. If you service it every 30k miles you'll get more life out of it. The fluid breaks down quick and clogs the filter and hurts the pump
i have to replace transmission range sensor in my Escape 2010 wich is inside body valve,,,, do I have dismount whole transmission to do this job ?
No, check out my new video for 6f35 full rebuild if you want to. I show how to pull it out on that when I start building it. The valve body has to come out
Hi im actually doing this job my self because ive payed 3 shop's to rebuild or fix problems this last shop only lasted 15k miles first trip car was doing great 💯 % . Driving a long and see smoke transmission fluid leaking from bell housing turns out seal behind converter was leaking also saw a crack in fly wheel replaced both and i installed trans back in car and same thang still leaking. Would this be a seal In the pump area? Of the transmission to have a pressure leak note car shifted fine no problems just leaking needing some help thanks
When the flexplate (flywheel) cracks, it can cause the torque converter to wobble and damage the pump bushing. I recommend replacing the flexplate, torque converter and front pump
@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks for the info really appreciated 👍 I'll give it a try
Can you please provide some guidance?
My 2014 ford escape 1.6 liter front wheel drive with 180000 miles will occasionally loose power stilghly when acceleraring, I pulled the following code : P0741 and PO744. I changed the transmission fluid; I did 4 drains and refills. I also changed the valve body and updated the valve Solenoid strategy number and the solenoid body ID. I resetted the learned transmission adaptation but the issue is still there. Is the torque convertor out?
Yes that's a torque converter issue. You can try adding lubegard shudderfix before replacing it. Let it idle for 30 min to let the additive work in. If needed, do 15 to 30 wide open throttle runs from 50mph to 75mph to continue working the additive in. If that doesn't fix it, replace the torque converter and front pump. Good luck
Thank
Hi Sir - 7:49 did u say - that is not normal? or abnormal?
That's about normal. Thanks for watching!
mine clunks when putting into drive then it seems to go right to 3rd gear.... any ideas before tear down
Try shift solenoid B before teardown
thank you...
I had a po751 code shift solenoid A stuck.. checked A solenoid according to book. it checked good changed fluid twice, was way dirty both times within 100 miles... it's on 2013 ford escape...
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
I had a p0751 code, stuck A solenoid.. checked out according to rebuild book. checked out good.. changed fluid twice, still real dirty within 100 miles...
HI, have a 2019 ford galaxy with 8f40 has a jerky feel when changing gears any idea what it could be torque converter?
Hi, you can try servicing the transmission and adding friction modifier (lubegard shudder fix) if you think it may be converter shudder. But If it happens during shifts, you may have a sticking solenoid or worn piston seal
Is this the same transmission that's in a 2007 ford freestyle fwd
No, I believe that's either a cvt or 6f50
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclesI believe the 6 speed was a Asin transmission.
Hey, starting out looking for parts as I’m replacing this myself, I can’t for the life of me find the parts I need online, and would greatly prefer to not go junk yard tear down searching. Any help?
Are you trying to get a part number for the transmission assembly or something else? If you need the trans part number please give me your vin and thumbs up this comment so I get a notification
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
The two main parts you recommend a replacement for every time the front pump. And center support. Can not find replacements for.
My vin is 3FA6P0HRDXR237955. Any knowledge or help would be appreciated.
@@MarkoBonds oh okay. I can give base numbers. Pump 7a103. Converter 7902. Center support 7L328
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey man, I got into my tear down and it went perfect. The rebuild…my sprag assembly is stuck. It’s one way in and out and it got stuck going back in, any suggestions? I’m 100% willing to cut it out and get a new one
Hello I’m thinking I need to drain and fill again my wife 2017 edge with the 6f35 in it shudders on hard acceleration like merging into traffic I drain and filled fluid got a lot better but still there slightly thinking I should do another drain and fill 140k miles
It may also be a misfire, check for misfire codes. Thanks for watching
No codes at all and when I watch the tcc drops to 0 when it happens
@user-zv6em1ow6l if the tcc is stabile at 0 it may be something else. I think it's a misfire. Perhaps you can hold down the accelerator long enough for the engine light to begin flashing, then it'll set a code
Go goes from 0 to 600 back and forth while it’s doing it
@user-zv6em1ow6l OK yeah another service can help. And shudderfix (lubegard)
thank you for sharing
Hi
I hafe 3-4 flare in 2014 escape what can cause that?
Hello. Are you sure it's not 2-3? 4th is when overdrive applies. There's not many issues out of that. Unless your pump is failing. Any whining noise?
Watching again 2 months later. My suspicions turned out to be true so a rebuild looks to be in my future.
Good luck, let me know if you need any help
Just got and escape, No reverse no drive. up in the air I noticed passenger trire rotates while in Neutral.
Does it move faster when you hit the gas? If so I'd try replacing solenoid "B"
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles It does go faster when giving it gas. Also noticed fluid drains out pretty good from driver side axel seal But only when a gear is selected. Not sure if that would cause a pressure issue.
Solenoid B is the very top one on the valve body right?
@@mordeth141 I'm just now seeing your reply. Also, I'm questioning why I recommended replacing solenoid B. If you still need help, I think you need to tear the transmission down and investigate further. Somethings damaged, and the transmission can't engage neutral.
How long does it take to put one of these back together for a rebuild?
I'd say a couple of hours for an experienced tech. Thanks for watching.