Common Ford Escape Transmission Issues 2011-2018 6F35 6-Speed Auto
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2023
- Watch next: 6F35 FULL Rebuild • Ford 6F35 Full Rebuild...
Transmission removal: • Transmission Removal |...
6F35 Transmission Service: • Ford 6F35 Transmission...
Won't move in DRIVE: • Ford Escape Won't Move...
Converter shudder diag: • Ford 6F35 Transmission...
Checking fluid level: • Checking Transmission ...
Low idle/stall (Converter clutch): • Very Rough, Low Idle i...
Pump whine sound: • Ford Escape/Fusion Whi...
Watch next: 6F35 FULL Rebuild ua-cam.com/video/lrMZ2m-Zji0/v-deo.html
Transmission removal: ua-cam.com/video/E-OCjm3pFJ0/v-deo.html
6F35 Transmission Service: ua-cam.com/video/F--bs3gqq5M/v-deo.html
Won't move in DRIVE: ua-cam.com/video/td6KwBAuJf8/v-deo.html
Converter shudder diag: ua-cam.com/video/7yNIrjUlu4w/v-deo.html
Checking fluid level: ua-cam.com/video/jswCtiJaXpU/v-deo.html
Low idle/stall (Converter clutch): ua-cam.com/video/-i60Xr_codo/v-deo.html
Pump whine sound: ua-cam.com/video/pbgr44_fILU/v-deo.html
He Ben, Great video and awesome channel. I'm working my way thru some of your other videos. I've always been a Ford guy and haven't had many issue. It all started at age 16 with a 1972 Cougar with a FMX trans which I put a C6 in later along with a driveshaft shortening. 38 year later LOL. Anyway, We bought a 2012 Ford Limited Escape 4 cylinder about 3 years back with 70k miles (Sons 1st car). It now has 101k miles. The car has always been great. Reverse is good but it has always shifted into drive slowly. Maybe a 2 second delay. Once in drive, it has always up shifted fine and down shifted fine. No issues or delays. Just last week my boy was heading to work. He drove thru town stop and go for about 15 minutes till he got on the interstate. He then came into town again and stopped at a red light. When he started to go, the RPM went up but the car didn't want to move very fast as if 1st gear was slipping. It donet jerk but slowly moves till 2nd gear comes in. The wrench symbol came on representing the mis-match between the trany sensor and wheel sensor. Once it shifted into 2nd, all was well. It will climb up threw the gears and back down when working to a stop. He then stops at the next light and starts to go, no issue. The next light, no issue, The next light, its an issue. So its a intermittent issue in 1st gear only after it warms up. He gets to work and the car sites for 10 hours. Starts it up, heads out, no issues when stopping and going till the car warms up again. Then he can stop at a light and sometimes it slips and sometime is doesn't. Buying it used, I don't know the history of the car. The oil doesn't look to bad and we drained a quart out and added some Lucas Trans fix to it per my works fleet mechanics instruction. He said if it improves, then drain and add new oil and go from there. Sometimes I think it did help but other times I don't. Ive been running it for the last week with the Lucas in it. I've never had any luck in the past changing the oil and hoping for the miracle cure all. Car has some value but probably no enough to justify a rebuild. It has a P701 code as it should with the slippage. Any advice or thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Hi, thanks for watching my videos. The thick lucas "stop slip" syrup I believe is for worn piston seals causing a clutch pack to slip - to get a few more miles out of a worn transmission. It will mask a leaking clutch piston or possibly seal worn sealing rings for a while. Your P0701 code is a general transmission fault code and there should be another one set with that which is more specific. Does the fluid smell burnt? If not, I would remove the valve body (with the transmission in the car) and take it apart.. inspect the separator plates for wear (the check balls may be stuck in the plates). If you have check balls stuck in the separator plates, then replace the plates/gaskets and put it back together. You don't have to remove the transmission from the car to do this work. With the valve body out, you can also air test the forward clutch with a rubber-tipped air nozzle (don't exceed 30-50psi to be safe). You should hear a thud when applying air. The test ports are visible with the valve body out and have 2 rubber sleeves in the bores. With the rubber sleeve still in, you can apply air to the upper hole and see if theres hissing after it applies. If so, teardown the transmission and replace the center support and forward clutch.
That code was a p0731. I typed it wrong. @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
I subbed your channel. You seem to be a pretty nice guy. This is the first time i've heard of an Escape T-shudder. Only thing was about greasing the converter hub and making sure dowels were there to avoid cracking the flexplate? I gave up on it. My old lady has had hers parked going on a year now...this, after driving it for about a year with the shudder. Can't wait to see what the fluid tastes like because it's never been serviced...not in the 3 years she's had it. It's a 2017 SE so whether or not this fixes the trans doesn't matter to me at this moment because this is the ONLY advice or help I have found. It's never thrown a code and because of that, the dealer has said that there's nothing they could do...after charging to scan it three times. Calif. Ford dealers are just swell. Thank you for your time sir. Oh, and if this does work out then I will be "Joining" your channel and elevate you to Super Hero Status. I will never go on like this in the future.
You're welcome. Happy to help! For torque converter shudder, you should service the transmission. I'll link my video. Use BG cleaner and drive it before the first drain. Drain and fill 3 times. And use lubegard shudder fix with the final fill ua-cam.com/video/F--bs3gqq5M/v-deo.htmlsi=zOthnRCqxShSPaZt
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I did exactly like you said and...It WORKED! No more shudder! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! You are the man! C42200, 40164, & 41564 DTC's are popping up now on the "self test" mode. Any guidance on those would be awesome...You saved our car and my wife says she loves you!
@paulbok6941 I'm very happy it's fixed! I'm unfamiliar with that format of code. If you'd like to scan with an obd scanner for codes that would help. Once again, glad it's fixed!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I scanned with an Actron Pocket Scan Plus and it says there are no codes. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? It's an OBD2 scanner so I don't know what to think. Thank you for your help and getting back to me so quick!
Thanks for the information and tips
Loved the video , in the mornings i can put it in reverse slight jerk put it in drive super hard jerk , i belive i feel slight shift issues
Thanks first of all i followed your rebuild to the t and transmission runs great 2nd gear i hear is jumpy . on the radiator cap after car cools down mines doesnt have that pressure seal sound when removing would a bad cap cause my car to boil over and overheat.
glad to help! yeah i'd start with a cap
Thanks for your video! We have a 2014 Ford escape 2.0L turbo. Reverse works perfectly and fluid seemed a bit dark (no metal bits seen) and I drained once and filled with 4.2 qt mercon LV. There is a several second delay when shifting to drive with an eventual clunk then very weak acceleration from stop and rpm’s don’t seem to exceed 3K. While moving the car seems mostly normal but struggles especially when going up hills. We read codes 731, 751, and 2700. Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks again for your video.
I'm thinking your forward clutch piston seal is leaking pressure, caused the forward clutch snap ring to rotate and break the case inside. Sometimes old broken down fluid can mask a forward clutch seal leak. Although in this situation, you didn't have much time left anyway even without servicing it. I'd get it diagnosed to be safe, since I can't in person. But it may be time for an overhaul or replacement. The P0731 code says a lot
Hey Big Ben, I'm impressed beyond words of you're ford knowledge and your clear answers...Prompt me to ask this question which after much research and dealership phone calls and not getting a solid answer. I have a 2017 escape s with 2.5 motor and it has 10857 miles. Because of it's age should I change tranny fluid or wait for the 30000 miles to occur? I bought it new.
Hi! I'm glad the video helped. If I were in your shoes, I would drain/fill 3 times. Even though it's only got 10k miles. It's 7 years old. The transmission has issues with the fluid wearing out too fast and damaging the transmission ua-cam.com/video/F--bs3gqq5M/v-deo.html
Hi! I have a fusion with this transmision 35 k miles, i was about to change the oil next month and i started to hear a little bit noise, when connecting drive, or when i release the gas pedal, all of this at very low speed. I dont know if this could be the gearbox itself, or maybe the gearbox mount? Any ideas? Thanks
Thanks for this! Just bought a 2017 Ford escape with only 77k miles on it a few weeks ago and it started "vibrating" when we accelerated, yep, right in the 30-50 mph range. Taking it back to the dealership so they can do the transmission fluid flush and add some shudder guard, and hopefully that fixes the issues.
Sounds good, glad to help!
Did it work? I'm having the same issue with my 2018 Escape
Would love an update on this! My 2017 is at 108K miles and is doing this as well. My rpms bounce when I’m in between 35-45 mph.
Yep same
Same with my 2017 with 95,000 miles.
Good afternoon, I'm Brazilian.. I have a problem with my 6f35 Ford Fusion, I bought a used transmission and installed it in my vehicle, the oil is at the level and it's new. It turns out that the car has this noise as seen in the video and when it heats up, the gearbox ends up losing gear and then I have to turn it off and on again, there is no error code on the scanner, the gearbox is jerky, it seems like it is trying to engage two gears at once, can you help me?
I have the shutter issue at 40 to 50 mph. I plan on draining and filling a couple times like you mentioned. I was doing it just hoping that might fix the problem but I'm so HAPPY I seen your video before I do it so I can add the lubegard! How much should I put in if adding 9 quarts? If I don't hear back before from you before I do the job I'm sure there are directions! Again so glad I watched this before I did the flush. I'll let you know if it takes care of the shutter.
Hi, 1 tube of lubegard on the final fill is enough. Heres a video I made on how to service the transmission: ua-cam.com/video/F--bs3gqq5M/v-deo.htmlsi=8YZdEGfDZ3ibh2wi
I have a 2015 ford escape 1.4 turbo awd when you put it in gear it takes a minute to go into gear and once in gear you have to hold it to the floor to get it to move but when in reverse it moves fine
Hi Ben, I have one that is leaking bad but only when its in reverse.
any thoughts?
Thank you for all the info. it's always helpful. I just bought a 2013 for eacape, and a code popped up p0720 somewhere to do with the transmission
Thats a rare code for an escape 6f35 transmission. Are there any symptoms you feel? I would inspect the transmission harness for frayed wires first
I’m in mass and my gf who is driving my car just had this happen to her where the RPMs went up really high then she turned it off and on and was able to drive but it bucked. I wonder if it’s the a flush or something.
Just wish I could let you drive mine and diagnose it like a boss.
Hi there, I really appreciate your video and all the comments/responses are very helpful. I do have a tough question. I have a 2014 Ford Escape with 141k miles and it was doing exactly what you described to be the Torque Converter Shutter (shuttering at 35-40mph). I did as you described in the video (drained the transmission fluid, filled it, ran it, drained it, filled it with the friction modifier/shutter repair and leveled the fluid). The shuttering completely went away after the first change of fluid. And has stayed that way after the second flush. My question is your opinion on how long this “fix” will last? Does this mean the transmission will eventually fail? Soon? Thanks again for the help!
Hey. I've never had a customer return with shudder again after doing this. You should be set, and the transmission will last for the life of its pump. If the fluids been changed regularly in the past, that should be a lot more life
Hello and thank you for the video!
I have a 2010 v6 fwd and I thought I had a bad front wheel bearing.
I did the swerve test where you swerve the vehicle either right or left to see which direction silences the bad bearing noise. Swerve right and my noise dissapers... so that motion would "unload" my right front wheel bearing. I replaced wheel bearing on front right and still have noise (more of a vibration really - can slightly be felt in steering wheel).
Best part is that when I swerve right it still cancels out the noise.
So I'm wondering if such behavior is indicative of the drivers side cv axle bushing in the transmission?
I also am experiencing occasional transmission slipping when vehicle cold - but it goes away by the time it's in top gear.
Hi, can you get the car on jackstands, turn off abs, and drive it in the air, and see where the noise is coming from?
So has ford done anything to improve the transmission issues, especially on the newer models? I just purchased a 2024 active model last week! Hopefully this this vehicle will serve me well! However I do have some questions!. Thank you for the informative video! Great content! God bless 🙌 😊
The new escapes have the 8 speed. Its similar, I'd say about as reliable. It has its own unique problems. I would service it often and you should be ok.
Apologies for the long questions.
I have a 2017 escape 1.5 titanium AWD, I am having the shuttering, reverse not engaging(and/or I don’t know how to explain seems to bangs into reverse) and then also when I slow down for a yield or stop when I hit the gas it doesn’t seem to move right away (revs but doesn’t actually go). I am willing to try anything before dishing 5-7k out for a new transmission. I don’t have any lights on the dash, is that a good sign? Do you know if there are any videos out on how to replace the solenoids? I will also change and treat the fluid after to see if that helps the shuttering.
Harsh delayed reverse can be a sticking shift solenoid B. Shudder would be a torque converter issue. Service it and add lubegard shudder fix. Loss of engagement can be a pump failure. In order to replace the shift solenoid B, you can reference my 6f35 teardown video. I point at solenoid B. 7g383 base part number. Get the correct band number for it off the old solenoid. Usually 2, 3 or 4. To access the solenoid, remove the torx-20 screws off the lead frame and you'll have access
Hello i love the video. I am looking for the video you stated about a vibration only in gear. Replaced mounts that did not fix. I have no codes. I have scan tool and was wondering what pids to look at and how to know if possible before removal and replacement. Also if the torque converter clutch is failed do i rebuild or replace trans or just torque converter?
ua-cam.com/video/-i60Xr_codo/v-deo.htmlsi=u2nfzo2Zb0ozbcZg
You can just replace the converter. But it's best to teardown and clean up, and rebuild. Always replace the pump too
Wow thank you for quik response. I'm having that exact issue. I'm a mechanic but still learning and was stuck. Replaced mount found vaccuum leaks. Even removed turbo and checked it out because of a overboost code that came and went. Really apriciate you sharing your time and knowledge. Have a great day
Thank you for your videos! When you change the trans fluid twice, do you drive between the changes? If yes, how many miles?
You're welcome. I just let the engine idle for 15 minutes. If you're doing 30k intervals then 2 drains is enough. 3 or 4 if you're catching up
Hello, i have the 2017 2.0 EB and does that anywhere from 25 to 45mph. 170k miles. If I step on it you hardly or don't feel it. Cruise at highway speed and its all good. 100% is fluid related? I'm planning a long trip should I do this flush ASAP?
Good to know and thanks @bigbenscarsandcycles. - Bigger problem I have is the engine. 2018 Ford Escape, Engine has 54K miles and is getting coolant in the cylinders. Ford 'had' a program back in '21 & '22 acknowledging this issue. Parameters around this program said 'if less than' 80K miles they would replace. Now they're saying here's a minor token offering to help with the FULL ENGINE REPLACEMENT" which causes me to question if I keep the vehicle or try an scrap it for parts.
The redesigned engines have improvements to prevent the issue from happening again
I have a 2013 Escape 2.0, in the mornings when I go to work it drives smooth but after work I guess when the engine has been on for a while and I come to a complete stop it starts to jerk, it recently threw a P0320 and P0322 codes and I replaced the Crankshaft sensor but it still seems to have the same issue
I don't deal with engine repairs that much, but if the pcm relies on the CMP (cam sensors) for engine speed, that may be the problem. I'm not positive if it does.
So glad I found this channel. Subbed right away. I had a 2014 Ford Escape with a 2nd to 3rd gear hard shift. Surprisingly though, when I did a KAS Or KAM Transmission relearn it would go away and shift great. But the next day hard shift came back. I had same good result if i unplugged 12v battery. It would shift great for 30 minutes and then back to having that one hard 2nd to 3rd hard shift. Do you have any ideas what this could be?
Hi! a delay into 3rd when cold is normal for the first few shifts. Firmness on the 2-3 shift without a delay is wear/tear on the direct clutch. I've never seen it cause an issue. and MANY of them do it
@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you so much. Really appreciate you responding and making these videos. I'm a new subscriber and I've watched a few already. Looking forward to more and any kind of content on escapes, focuses, fiestas. As I'm a car dealer and buy them all the time. I've encountered various problems but always try to fix them myself. Appreciate your insight
@BigBensCarsAndCycles I have a 2017 Ford Escape with almost 104,000 miles. The transmission skips when I first start driving the car if it's been parked for more than a few hours. After that it doesn't skip at all. It doesn't have to be cold out for this to happen. Suggestions?
If it's a delayed 2-3 upshift you'll want to replace shift solenoid B
First many many thanks to you for sharing this information!! I’m going to try the b shift solenoid replacement for my daughter’s 2016 Escape. I was wondering, do I have to remove the value body to get the solenoid out? I’ve been looking for videos of that solenoid being replaced, but the closest I found was someone rebuilding the whole transmission.
Nope, you can leave the valve body in. Just pull the black side cover off, and remove the leadframe (black plastic harness on the valve body) it's fastened on with small torx screws. The SSB is on the top left. Opposite the single solenoid on the right. You'll need the band number for the replacement solenoid. It's engraved on the solenoid. Usually it's band 2, 3 or 4
I have yet to dig into the transmission to replace that solenoid and now 5th to 6th shift has developed a flare. Can I replace that solenoid too or do you think I have bigger problems? What do you think abt replacing the whole valve body? Just for context, I’ve done a drain and fill 5 times in the past year and a half with Ford fluid.
@jhaynes9034 you may want to wait a bit to see if it gets worse, it may be front pump failure. Or service now to get some clean fluid in
Excellent video. Unfortunately, it did not address the concern that I have with my 2014 Escape SE 2.0, 6 speed... It is now April 1st, so my Escape is roughly 10 years old with approximately 42,000 miles and I'm the original owner having ordered it from the factory. Any and All required routine maintenance has always been done and overall, I do drive it very conservatively. I did notice my 'concern'... and did service the transmission at approximately 32,000 miles and overall, now, find that it does seem to shift considerably better... My concern, I have found, is at speeds above say 50mph, during 'fairly' hard acceleration such as 'Passing' I experience a 'Hesitation' followed by a 'Jolt' as it downshifts. A condition which concerns me greatly. (When I Have Experienced This 'Jolt', I Always Let Off The Accelerator Not Wanting To Damage Anything, Since I Don't Know What Is Causing This Issue...) This condition does NOT occur if I am Gradually increasing my speed like when entering a freeway on an on-ramp. As a 'Retired' LEO, this is my last vehicle and I'm wanting it to last. Any help or advise you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
If the jolt occurs during the 5-4 downshift, then it's possible the forward clutch piston is leaking
Hi I hope you can help me out. I have a 2017 escape 1.5. It shows code p0711. Trans fluid temp sensor. From what I have researched I think it’s part of the valve body or control module not sure. But it has the same symptoms as you described in this video for shift solenoid b. With the only difference being that it won’t shift past 3rd. I already did a flush and refill and a complete obd2 reset with no improvement. It won’t erase the code or it comes back immediately rather. What do you think ? Appreciate any help you can give.
P0711 says the Trans temp sensor indicates a valid temperature, but hasn't changed since startup. The pinpoint test says to check for and address any fuel pressure sensor or map sensor fault codes first, as they share a common signal return circuit. If you don't have those codes, visually inspect the transmission harness for damaged wires. If you don't have any, replace the molded leadframe. That's held onto the valve body with 5 torx screws
I have '16 explorer 2.3l ecoboost with 6f35 transmission that I just got. Shifts fine but when i step on it little harder and it downshifts from 6th to 5th gear, i can feel a thud(not sure how to explain it) I feel like it might be due to not enough fluid in transmission. It has 67k miles but i dont know when was teansmission serviced last since I just got the car. Also at higher speed and lowee torque, I can see the change in rpms up and down +/- 200rpms Any suggestions? Car is still under full 60 day warranty but I am not too confident that the this auto dilership(Autonation chrysler) knows what they are doing since the are not Ford specific. I am in Phoenix, AZ so if you have any good shop to suggest let me know.
I'd call sales and let them know. That's a torque converter slip and the thud may be a solenoid B or direct drum fault.
Ben I have a 2016 Ford Escape with the most common transmission issue you mentioned. The dealer is hesitant to flush the transmission for fear that it will make the problem worse. They recommended a torque converter replacement. All things being equal could I gamble on the flush or replace the transmission?
Thanks
Bill D.
Midlothian Va.
If the converter is just shuddering, a flush and additive will fix it. if the converter is not releasing and stalling the engine, it wont. A flush can cause firm shifts FYI, but will fix shudder. I'm 2 hours away, if you want me to service it. bigbenscarsandcycles@gmail.com
Hello Ben, thanks for your vedio, I have a 2019 edge 2.0l. How many quarts of transmission fluid does it takes after you drain it. thanks
you're welcome! 4.2 quarts
I got a 2014 transit connect, it seems solenoid b is my problem. If it already has been shifting hard into reverse and up shifting hard in higher gears for a while, will replacing it now fix the issue or alleviate some of the hard shifts? If so do you happen to know the part number for that solenoid?
solenoid B can reduce firmness and get rid of delayed shifts. but there can still be harshness leftover after (replacing the direct drum can get rid of that). The base part number is 7G383 and you'll need to identify the proper stamping number for your car. You can do that with a scan tool or pull the solenoid out and the number will be on it
my 2-3 upshift is delayed and jolty where it pulls back then pushes me. The reverse seems fine. Would it be with solenoid b or the direct clutch drum wear?
I expect a new solenoid would lessen the delay. Possibly fix the firmness. Any remaining firmness is direct wear. I haven't seen that get bad enough to be a real issue other than a nuisance
Just bought a 2018 se with the 1.5 eco boost with 120k on the odometer. It was pretty cheap but do you think I may have made a mistake getting it? I plan on taking care of it, using quality fuel and doing all the need services for it on a regular basis
If its running and driving, I wouldn't stress over it. You should go overboard with servicing the transmission. Get that fluid super clean and red (5 drain and fills) I've got a video for servicing that transmission. And if the engine block has been replaced before, you're all set! But get that transmission super-serviced asap because the fluid breaks down hard in them and plugs the filter, leading to pump failure and internal damage
Had the shudder in my cx9, same trans I think, flush did the fix, it’s going on 200k now
Hello. Got a 2018 that the lock up goes in and out. No codes logged on Snap On diagnostics . Does it at all speeds. It shows on pid value the engagement and disengagement. It is a 4 cylinder 150k. Fluid is clear red. Been serviced exchange twice.
Add lubegard shudder fix (red tube)
Thank you for the video!
I just bought a 2019 Ford Fusion S(2.5L I4 F ), and the mileage is 88236. I found out I had a problem with my transmission, especially when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd. The shift from 2nd to 3rd is very harsh. You have to accelerate very gently to avoid this. Once the car got up to high speeds there was no difficulty shifting gears. I took the car to AAMCO for service and they told me the transmission fluid was contaminated, no fault codes were detected, and my transmission needed to be disassembled for inspection. I'd like to know what's wrong with my transmission, and is it a common problem? What should do now, take apart the transmission by their advice or flush the transmission, refill the transmission fluid, and change the shift solenoid B to see what 's gonna happen next?
Thanks again!
Happy to help. Shift solenoid B can get rid of firm delayed shifts into reverse, third and fifth. It may not fully resolve the firmness into 3rd. You can try a flush with solenoid B, reset transmission adaptives, drive it a couple of weeks. If it's still present, replace the direct drum in the transmission. As well as other common failure points such as the pump, converter and center support
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you for your reply! 'll go to AAMCO on Monday and let them do these things first. I actually don't know anything about transmissions and have to take the mechanic shop's word for it. It's really expensive to take apart and reinstall the transmission. I went to another mechanic shop a few days ago and they didn't even open the hood to check it out, they let me replace the transmission and it would cost me over $6,000 total, I was shocked beyond words! Thank you for being so helpful.
Many thanks for your reply and it's really really helpful! It helps me save a lot of money. After taking your advice, I went to AAMCO very early on Monday morning, good thing they haven't taken my transmission apart yet. Because they said the transmission fluid was contaminated, I thought they must have leaked some of my transmission fluid, and I was a little worried that I might not be able to drive with not enough transmission fluid, but they said they just took a sample with a stick and then looked at it, and it was ridiculous that they would have to take apart my transmission just to do that little bit of checking! After that, I drove my car to the dealer shop(no delays, very weird ) and let them change my transmission fluid, it only cost me $200! I can feel the car‘s power response faster than before and there's never been a harsh shift like there used to be until now. It was greatly improved after a transmission fluid change.
But the problem isn't completely solved, I can still feel some delay and jerky when shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd., although it's not very noticeable. I'm not sure if this is a common problem with this car or a precursor to transmission problems, so I'm still a little concerned. But the car drives without too many problems for now, so thanks for the advice! Thank you very much!@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
The last thing you said was the seal to the axle. How do you fix that in the crankcase?
Hi, I'm not sure what you mean. But, to replace the axle seal you pull it out, replace the bushing and seal, and axle if it's damaged
I have 2014 ford fusion and I’ve attempted to reset the adaptive tables a couple times over the past year to help smooth out shifts and after the first time, I began to get rough engagements into reverse and drive (the whole car would jerk), this didn’t happen before. I didn’t know about the directions for the learning process at the time. Would resetting the adaptive tables again and following all the learning directions solve this problem? Could it be shift solenoid b? I don’t get why it started after I did the reset but was fine before. I think resetting it only made things worse for me.
The pcm is glitchy with the 6f35. You can reset transmission adaptives 3 times in a row to assure they are reset properly. Sometimes it doesn't work. If that doesn't work, you could have lazy solenoids or a worn center support
2018 escape titanium 4wd sometimes in the winter when I back out of a parking spot then go to drive it will delay for a few seconds. Only does it on a cold start like leaving or going to work. Possible caudes and recommendations?
Does reverse jerk when it does that? If so, shift solenoid B may be sticking. Either way, thats a cheap part to throw at it. Because otherwise that's a forward clutch issue
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no jerking. No ryme or reason for it. Just really random but only did it during the winter maybe 5 times. Maybe fluid change is worth doing and possibly fix it?
I have a 2013 escape se fwd 6=speed automatic transmission. 96000 miles. It recently started making a whining noise when starting up a hill or accelerating until it shifts in to a higher gear and picks up speed then it goes away. If I’m taking it easy on a flat you don’t hear it. I don’t think the transmission was ever serviced. Let me know your thoughts please. I’m planning to take it to a ford service dealer next week. Thanks. Rich.
Hi, it sounds like it may be a front pump starting to fail. The transmission is hard on the fluid in these, and plugs the filter, which damages the pump and causes wear to the rest of the transmission
I have a 2017 ford escape 2.0 4wd I'm getting a trans fluid over temp. Trans says it's get to 316°f going 60 to 70mph and goes back down without changing speed slowly?
Its possible that the torque converter clutch is slipping and getting the fluid hot. If the fluid hasn't been changed in a while, I'd start with that - 3 drain and fills, and add lubegard shudderfix on the final fill. Reason for trying a service also, is that the fluid breaks down really hard in these transmissions, so that can cause that
The rough shifts/ delayed shifts when its cold only, changed 1/3 of fluid, change more? Plan to find a replacement trans? 1-2 wouldnt be sylinoid b?
1 to 2 is the intermediate clutch. I would change the fluid a couple more times and reset transmission adaptive tables and make sure the fluid level is right
My 2016 Ford escape has a code for P0741 for torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance or stuck off but the car drives completely fine so I don’t know if it’s bad or not bad and I don’t know if it’s in the transmission or the outside of it?
Replacing the torque converter and front pump would fix that issue.
I have a 2018 ford escape S, the 2.5L non turbo and when it’s not in motion but in drive it has a very loud shake/shudder, but it goes away when I put it in neutral. Any ideas what it could be?
The torque converter clutch is most likely stuck partially applied and you should replace the torque converter, front pump and valve body/solenoid body
I have a question with the front pump issue you described. Can you turn the car off for 5 seconds, start it back up, and then have about 30 seconds to a minute before there is no throttle response again? I had to do this a few times to get my escape home.
Hi, yes. That's what happens. I think that stopping let's the pump cool for a while
Thanks for your video. I have a 2015 escape 1.6l, it moves to sport mode on second gear by itself, what could be the cause?
You're welcome. I've never heard of such a thing. Can you give more details?
It only moves on sport mode second gear
I have a 2013 Ford escape turbo I've been told my transmission needs to be replaced costing upwards to 5,000. I have a low rough idle and shutter stalls on hills. Would a transmission flush help?
If it were my car, I'd change out the torque converter and front pump, tear down and clean the transmission. Possibly a new valve body and solenoid body
Hi, thanks for the video. I have 2013 ford escape 183miles with the code p1711. When I shift to D the do a harsh engagement and doesn't move easily, need to press more the gas pedal to move. Any idea? Thanks in advance
Hi, it sounds like the forward clutch piston seal is leaking, and probably rotated the snap ring for the forward clutch. This damages the case inside. You'll want a teardown inspection to confirm. And a rebuild with a new case, pump, converter, center support and valve body & solenoid body
Hello Big Ben. I have a 2012 Ford Escape. Last summer while doing about 60 on the highway in cruise control the car felt sluggish and the rpm's were rising. I thought for sure the transmission went. I slowed down and drove carefully all the way home. It hasn't done it again and seems to be working fine. Is that the shutter thing you're talking about? Also, one day last week the electric power steering quit working for about 8 miles. Now it's working again. Very confusing. I think I should do the transmission flush as you explained. Thank You
Strange indeed, are you getting a red battery light on the dash? If so, alternator. If not, I'd wait for something to set a code. A transmission service is a good start. Hopefully the front pump isn't going out.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I do need a new battery. I know that. I have to jump it if I leave the back gate or doors open for a while. Plus it's getting colder outside. I have not seen any battery light. Maybe the alternator isn't keeping the battery fully charged? I hope a new front pump isn't an expensive job if that's going bad. Thank You very much for responding. Information and time are so valuable these days.
I can put vehicle in air to drive but uncertain of how to disengage abs... does it require diagnostic tool? Or just a fuse?
Traction control button
Good Morning, can you link the video you spoke of with the rough idle in gear. My wifes 2018 Escape is doing that. When in gear stopped at light its super rough idle and tries to lurch ahead. Want to watch video and see if there is anything I can do. Dealer said replace whole Trans....
ua-cam.com/video/-i60Xr_codo/v-deo.html
You can replace the pump, converter, valve body, solenoid body, center support, overhaul and be out for under 5k
Thank you for putting this video together. Thumbs up and subscribed!
Do you think it's worth paying my local shop to perform a fluid flush using a machine; or is draining / filling a couple to three times usually sufficient? (If it helps with the answer, I have no problem draining filling myself - and have already done it once). Also, would be interested in learning more about the flex plate rattle at idle - If you have a recording of that, would be very interested. Finally, is there a way to inspect the flex plate for cracks on a 2016 6F35 without removing the transmission? Thanks again!
You're very welcome. Happy to help. If your converter is shuddering, you can drain and fill the transmission 2-3 times, adding 4.5 quarts after each drain. Mercon lv. Make sure to add lubegard shudderfix on the final fill. That will work just fine getting rid of shudder. Or just as maintenance too. I don't have a video on flexplate rattle, but will add one when the time comes. If your flexplate is cracked enough, you can remove the starter - and you'll notice the flexplate will rotate slightly, independently from the engine. That indicates a break. Thanks for watching.
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclesVery good. Thanks for the reply!
I had an issue few months ago. 2014 1.6L, after driving it for 1-2 hrs as I was pulling into the drive way I loft drive and reverse. Turned out the car in park and checked for codes, turned it back on and drive and reverse worked. Engine had a noise like a turbo wining. Drove it around the block few days ago no issues. Any thoughts?
Hi, sounds like front pump failure. You can try draining and filling the transmission a few times. It may save the pump if the filter is restricted. New fluid is thinner
Hi can't find your video torque converter clutch coming apart. our escape. In drive and reverse it starts shuttering an idling lower. And if you kind of power break it it starts making louder noises. But seems if you start going it drives fine. Until you come to a stop. In park or neutral it's running great Could you send me the link.
Best repair: overhaul the transmission, cheap repair: replace converter and pump. ua-cam.com/video/-i60Xr_codo/v-deo.html
My 2012 escape will go into N, D, and L but won’t engage Reverse. Any idea what could be going on?
It could be a problem with the low reverse clutch or direct clutch. Or a check ball stuck in a valve body separator plate or seized shift solenoid B
got a 2011 escape, clean oil, all external sensors on vehicle and Transmission are working, Shifts real nice when cold, then after warmup, starts lag shifting and hard shifting., Lags to shift into reverse and enters harsh, on highway acelleration hard shifts between 1-2 ok 2-3 ok then 3-4 or 4-5,hard shifts, what else can I check
Lagging or lazy shifts can be a result of a mechanically sticking shift solenoid. Reverse, 3rd and 5th are controlled by shift solenoid B. I'd start there.
Do you have a video on how to fix solenoid b on the 6f35 transmission
Not particularly. I do have a video for full transmission rebuild. Which shows how to pull the side cover off the case. From there, remove the 5 small torx screws holding the leadframe onto the solenoid body, and the solenoid pops right out after sliding out the 2 rod retainers
Hi Ben, is there a way to diagnose the forward clutch leaking pressure? Debating on taking it to the dealership and gave my extended warranty pay for it to be fixed. I only worry about them being able to replicate the delayed reverse to drive. Only does it on a cold start and if it’s colder out. Sometimes when I go from a rolling stop it feels like it “catches drives”. Assuming it’s the line pressure bleeding. Thanks in advance
Hi, to test the forward clutch you need to remove the valve body and air test forward through its pressure port, I would use the warranty since you have it
Do you think that’s the issue? Would that throw a code? There’s no codes but it definitely doesn’t feel right. Any idea what book time is?
@@JeffsRangeDay it could be the issue. Either that or the pump or control. So I'd replace them all on a rebuild. Common failures anyway. Warranty labor around 16 hours
You answered my question
I have a 2015 Ford Escape. I’ve had it looked at several times and no one seems to find an issue. My car shakes when going 30-45 mph. It doesn’t know which gear it wants to be in. When I make a full stop it vibrates while still, then makes a loud noise while accelerating. It goes quite slow, like it doesn’t want to go at all till I hit about 35. When I go uphill it makes this loud noise. I’m not really sure how to explain the noise it just gets loud. Also when starting to go from a stop, it makes this loud whistling noise & juts between gears like it doesn’t want to switch. I took it to a shop for these same problems about 6 months ago. They changed the spark plugs but that didn’t fix anything. & they told me all those noise are normal. But now the noise are even louder and it’s sticking between shifts. I’m not sure how to explain it to a mechanic. Once they see no check engine light they seem to dismiss it😞
Could be the torque converter, want to record a video of the issue for my Facebook or discord group?
Have you seen many of the 3rd Gen escapes with higher miles on the original 6f35? Hoping to make mine last 200k. I have a titanium AWD with the 2.0 Ecoboost. Any tips on maintenance or in general to make it last long? Thanks.
Hi. Yes they fail all the time because people don't change the fluid enough and they clog the pump filter. I recommend 3 drain and fills (run in between) every 30k miles. These transmissions are very rough on fluid
How much should a full rebuild cost and after the rebuild if changing fluid every 30kmiles how long should the tranmission last?
A complete overhaul, replacing all issue prone components and clutches, should run 4,500 to 6,500 depending on where you're located and parts pricing. Servicing it regularly after that, the transmission should last the lifetime of the pump. Which, with clean fluid all the time, should last considerably longer than a poorly maintained one. I think you'd get a couple hundred thousand miles out of it. Maybe more
I have a 2013 Escape AWD with the 6F35. Note I had the torque converter replaced at 150K miles. Now it has 185K miles. And now I notice sometimes slipping (or not shifting to 2nd) in 1st gear and then also sometimes not shifting to 3rd gear. Maybe shift solenoid B? How exactly do I replace that solenoid?
Does it whine, or lose engagement all together while driving? If so front pump
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I don’t hear a whine. But it does lose engagement between 2nd and 3rd. Then goes back to 2nd and I can drive stuck in 2nd at high rpm.
I have a 2017 Explorer 2.3 Ecoboost with the 6F35. Took it to my local Ford Dealership...RPMs surge every 10 seconds, RPM jumps 200-500 the entire time doesn't matter what speed. Feels like a shudder as well when im on the throttle. Its been happening for awhile and tech is saying the torque converter has been slipping and basically ruined my transmission... transmission is leaking as well. Theyre saying i need a new transmission & trans cooler.
Any thoughts on this? And from your video ill be servicing every 30k miles after it gets replaced. Wish i would've flushed it 2 or 3 times once the issue started happening
Some of those have an extended warranty coverage through Ford on the transmission, you may want to ask them if yours is covered. There's 12 months of warranty after the reprogramming recall
2011 ford fusion 3.0l awd and i have the shudder issue that you described on the first common issue on this video, glad i came across your channel for a fix but my question is about the lube guard to help fix the shudder but on the package it states that is not for use on ford transmission type f,cvt,dct i have the 6f35 am i missing something thanks for your help
The 6f35 is not type f, cvt or dct so you'll be fine. Thanks for watching!
@BigBensCarsAndCycles great thank you for response, I thought that 6f meant it was a type f transmission I drained and filled the fluid today I'll do it again and use the lube guard and I'll update you with results thanks again
BigBen, so I did 2 drain and fill on the fusion and put in the lube guard drove the car for 30 min and put 45 miles on it and still had the shudder with no signs of improvement, I was pretty disappointed so I decided to take it to a local shop and had it looked at and it turned out to be the drive shaft that it locked up and the bearings were shot.
@@392starsnstripes oh wow! Glad you have it figured out at least!
@BigBensCarsAndCycles I do have a question should I drain and fill again to try to remove the lube guard or will it be fine in there and not cause any harm
Hey Ben. Need your help. Have a 2019 Escape 6F35 Gen2 trans and I've rebuilt the trans once for the same problem, harsh or delayed 2-3 shift, also 4-5 shift is harsh or delayed and even when its cool it bangs into Reverse. I thought it was 3.5.R direct clutch issue so I changed all of the seals, pistons, half of the valve body with the valves but not the solenoid side of the valve body. I also pulled the trans again to replace the clutch support tower thinking that the ring lands were wore. Now I replaced the SSB solenoid because there were 3 codes pointing to it being stuck in the on position. But driving it today it still has a delay and then harsh shift into 3rd and somewhat in 5th. I see from comments below that I may need to reset the adaptive trans tables. My scanner can tun on firm shifts and resume or halt trans adaptive learning, remove trans adaptive tables or stop trans adaptive use. I'm taking the Escape to my trans guy who thinks its still either the valve body or the piston leaking in the direct clutch. When I rebuild it air pressure checking in the case with the drums installed seemed fine. Any help would really be appreciated if I dont have to pull the whole unit again. It has about 66K miles and when my friend bought it with 62K miles it started to have the shift problems.
Hi, what codes is it setting? Id inspect the separator plate (Maybe you installed a gen 1 plate), make sure the check balls and accumulator are installed, make sure the check balls aren't worn into the plate, check for a sticking direct clutch latch valve. If no issues are found, I would replace the valve body and solenoid body as a start. Then replace the direct drum if the problem is still there.
I believe they P0757 and P02701 and another one. All check balls and accumulater were installed that I could remember. The plate didnt look worn from the check balls. I may look at the direct drum and solenoid body again. Where is the direct clutch latch valve? Is it the valve in the direct drum piston?
@@standuncan3547 the latch valve is in the solenoid body. You can also check the direct regulator valve in the valve body
I did check the direct clutch valve in the solenoid body when I overhauled the transmission and replaced the main control valve body with a new Ford unit. But today driving the Ford Escape it seemed to still have the harsh or delayed 2-3 shift and 4-5 wasnt too bad for a few minutes. I was watching everything on my scanner and then it started to shift a lot better with no slipping or harshness all day long. I was going to delete the trans adaptive tables on my trip but it seemed to relearn everything and started to shift fine where you couldnt even feel it. My ATSG manual says there's a certain drive cycle procedure you can do for certain DTC malfunctions. So we'll see.
@@standuncan3547 awesome, maybe it had to work some assembly lube out of some line pressure ports in the direct drum
I have a 2017 the 3rd thing you said it was doing i need a new transmission it's an expensive fix it's costing me 4grand to fix
I have a 14 escape. You can drive it for about 15 minutes then the trans will stop pulling. If you put it in park and turn it off for about 15 minutes it will drive for another 15 minutes or so before doing the same thing. I haven’t been able to find anything with that kind of problem. Could you possibly point me in a direction. No codes show up either.
When it stops moving, you can apply more throttle and see if it makes a whining noise. If so, pump failure
2015 Ford Escape 1.6L, Rough 1st to 2nd gear shift. Automatic transmission.
If I shift from 1st-2nd gear under 2500 rpm’s, there’s a rough shift. If I shift from 1st-2nd gear above 2750 rpm’s, the shift is smooth.
Any guesses?
That seems to happen when the fluid level gets low.
I have a 2011 Ford escape v6 2wd.What are some issues i should look out for? I change all fluids myself every 6 months. Oil every 3k miles. Only thing i noticed is the transmission has always seemed to shift kind of lazily under light acceleration, but under moderate to heavy load it shifts great. Maybe just how its designed?
Hi. It may be low on fluid. The driver side axle seal on the transmission is a common leak point. The bushing fails, scores the axle and leaks through the seal. If it's not leaking, I've seen a few valve body separator plates wear. It's up to you if you want to go that far through.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you for your quick reply! ill check it
Can i used that lubeguard shudder fix as a preventing additive ? J just replaced my tranmission fluid and I'm wondering if adding it would help for future problems ..
Yes that would be work fine for you. Id drain and fill the transmission a few times before adding it, as it works best with clean fluid
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles i did drained the fluid twice. I'm planning on changing the fluid again in 30k miles should I use the additive again by then?
@rodrigoelgu is wouldn't worry about the additive until it shudders, so waiting 30k would be fine.
Hello. Can you tell me what would cause a Ford escape 2018 1.5 4WD to be painfully slow on acceleration? Also it seems to shudder when turning ? I’m not sure if that the steering but it’s very slow at acceleration?
Hi, it sounds like the torque converter clutch has failed and is stuck applied. I would definitely replace the pump while in there, as thats a common issue (see my 6f35 full rebuild video to see how). Make sure first, that theres no boost leaks
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles do you know how much roughly that would be ? Here in Houston people like to take advantage so I’m hoping to get a rough estimate of cost
I have a 2013 ford escape with codes p0729 and p0735. The error message says: transmission fault service now. My car loses speed and seem to not go in gear at times. It’s currently at the dealership but I was told that they couldn’t located any codes but I took to someone prior and these 2 codes appeared. Any suggestions?
I think your front pump is failing. Overdrive is the first usually to be affected, and that's what your codes are for. You can rebuild or replace your transmission
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I was told by the mechanic that the axel have a leak. He suggested to replace/ repair the axle seal and change the transmission fluid …
Good evening, new to channel. Question, got a 6F35 on a Fusion, when I put in reverse it would take a second to actually engage and it would hit hard specially when hot. In your experience would that be fixable or is it too late and would need replacement. Thanks
Hi, welcome to the channel. I think a good starting point would be replacing shift solenoid B. If the issue continues, then it may be the low/reverse clutch piston.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles wow that was a quick reply, I would be taking down transmission this week and start from there. Thank you
I have a 2015 Ford Escape SEL with 215000 miles. It just started the shudder between 35 and 50 when accelerating. I did the transmission flush 2x and added the additive you suggested, but it did not work and has actually gotten a little worse. Any suggestions?
Lubegard shudder fix?
Try going on the interstate, do 15-30 full throttle accelerations from 50 to 80mph if safe and legal and that should work the additive in
Yes lubeguard shudder fix. Tried your suggestion and still no fix. Looks like it's time for a new transmission or a new car.😢
2014 esacpe se 2.0 has a quick jerk on and off mostly up hill new tan fluid change new thottle body new haed 2 exhaust val new variable vals new low presser switch much more new parts it sat a little i got a good deal on it so i thought new plugs i did on plug the coil packs when running and number one dont change much shift great has losts of power i did have it change the purge val it was missing and dieing at at a stop it fixed that problem please help thanks clyde
hi. you should service the transmission and add friction modifier (lubegard shudder fix) ua-cam.com/video/F--bs3gqq5M/v-deo.htmlsi=ep5jZQwL9uWRtNFd
2017 ford escape 1.5 eco boost, it just had a new transmission put in (auto start stop feature) it has not been home for more than a week, the car sounds and drives fine until at a stop light or at an idle, it will completely die and an error message pops up saying (auto start failure) this error message has never occurred before the swap. The car is nearly undrivable since the car dies which then results in having to put into park, open the door, take the key out, close the door, and then after all that it will start but if you don’t stay on the throttle it happens again.
do you have an auto-start stop button to turn that off? They might have mixed up the connectors for the 2 aux pumps near the starter
2017 escape, when in driving I let off gas pedal it has a rattle noise but goes away when you press on gas pedal. Dealer replaced LH CV shaft but no luck after noise continue dealer blame transmission? Any info on problem?
Can you make a video of the noise and post it on my Facebook or discord group?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles okay I will make a video of it this week thanks
Hi Ben, I have a 2015 Escape with a 6F35 transmission. It is currently at a local dealer for replacement. The dealer is charging more that $6000. What should be the price range for a remanufactured 6F35, installed ? PS, where are you located?
6k is a good price for that. I'm in central VA
I have a 2012 ford escape 2.5l FWD automatic, and I have sort of a rough shift going from 1st to 2nd gear only, the other gears go in very smooth, already changed fluid twice. Has 75k miles. What can this issue be? It only rough shift when slowly accelerating, like city driving. when I press the gas a bit more like moving on a highway after a bump it shifts fine. Please help me. Other than that everything works fine and smooth, I only put it mercon lv motorcraft, also I already change bushing on cv axle driver side.
If you want to spend some money, get a new valve body and solenoid body. If you'd rather save money, take the valve body apart, replace the separator plates, shift solenoid C, shift solenoid B and the check balls
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles is this a, common issue? I read people have this same issue. What is the cause of this? Can I drive it like this? Will it last long? Also, Where to get the parts?
How much is solenoid b and does it need any type of programming after replacing it ? Im having a slight delay from second to 3rd especially when cold.
delay 2-3 is normal when cold. If it still does it when warm, yes replace ssb. It has a band number stamped on it which you need to match. Either 1, 2, 3 or 4. No, you don't need to program it. You'd just want to reset transmission adaptive tables to get rid of the delay after the repair.
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclesdo auto parts stores have the solenoid or the dealer ?
I'm in western NC, my son has a 2014 escape, 1.6 engine. Fluid was changed in transmission, when shifting in to drive it revs up. Pretty sure we need a rebuild or new trans. Do you know a good transmission shop in or near Asheville NC
I'm not familiar with that area. I'm 4 hrs from there though.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you, worth a try
2011 Ford
Escape xlt awd. I have done a drain fill x3 and shudder fix. Still have shudder between 20 and 50 mph. It seems to shift well with no slippage no warning lights. It shudders on accelerating and decelerating including coasting in neutral. Have done as you suggested with accelerating up to 75 from 50mph. No shudder 0-20 or 50mph and over. Help pls
Does the shudder go away or get worse under full throttle?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles once it is above 50 mph or below 20 no shudder
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles sorry. I would say it stays the same
Hey I've just subbed your channel, I've got a 2013 Ford escape Se 2WD and it just started making whining noise only while going down hills, and it seems like the transmission lets loose and just free wheels intil I get to the bottom of the hill and then it makes another noise, worse sounding, and late engagement getting back into gear at 45 mi per hr, could you please drop the link for the 'front pump video' or any other video that you have, that may be of use to me. Thank you so much!
Hi, thanks for subbing. I'll have a 6f35 full rebuild video uploaded by the end of the week. Working on it now.
Great news, thanks for all that you share!@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
2015 escape 2.0 awd
165k runs great, meh maybe it has a little hard shift but that’s not my main concern. When at a stop 🛑 it pulls forward hard nd jumps. What would that be.
Hi, it sounds like you may need a new torque converter. The clutch may be dragging inside. Replace the pump at the same time
I have a 2018 ford escape and I started off to work today and after the transmission warmed up it started acting up on me slipping big time and when it pushed on the gas it wouldn’t go anywhere and when it did kick into gear it made a big thud and then went right back to making a winding noise and not wanting to move could you please tell me what that could be I had it towed back to the house and the driver of the hauler said that he drove it onto the rollback so once it cools down it will run again
That sounds like a front pump failure. Sorry. You'll likely end up rebuilding or replacing the transmission.
ua-cam.com/video/pbgr44_fILU/v-deo.htmlsi=ROAlKlBQH2qhtIyG
I have a 2012 escape it lags a bit between 3rd & 4th gears when driving it in the morning and after driving a while it smooths out
A 2-3 delay when cold is normal. 3 to 4 isn't. Are you sure it's 3 to 4
2013 ford escape, p2700, abs p0751 code. should i just try and change solenoid
It's cheap and worth a shot. You may end up having a worn forward clutch piston or front pump though. These are known for the forward clutch piston seal to leak, and cause the forward clutch snap ring to rotate and break the case on the inside.
I have an issue on my 16 scape where when I shift to drive it stalls any pointers
Your torque converter clutch has likely failed and is not fully releasing. It's a good idea to replace the front pump at the same time. If you have high miles, I'd also do the valve body, solenoid body, case half, center support, direct drum, direct support and a 7153 master kit. Good luck!
Can you send me the link to that front pump failure you were talking about
ua-cam.com/video/pbgr44_fILU/v-deo.htmlsi=WH2e_pMZMhb-6Wt5
Hey Ben, you are a good guys! I just bought a used Ford Escape 2018, whose mileage is up to 21,8000 km. Usually, I just drive 10-20 kilometres one time and 4 times a day. Last time I drove to the Highway and sped up to 100 km/h. The dashboard indicates: "Transmission Fault Service Now." Auto repair scanned the code and got the DTS P0741. He said I had to replace the TCC Solenoid and replace the Transmission Fluid as well.
Could give me professional advice about this problem? Appreciate your reply!
Hi! From experience, you need a torque converter and front pump, it's not the solenoid.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you so much！
I’ve got 101,000 miles on my 2018 escape with the 6f35. My wife drives the vehicle extremely hard but the only issue I’ve noticed with the trans is a delayed 2-3 when it’s cold. I’ve done 4 fluid drain and fills since we got it with 30,000 miles. Hoping to get as many miles as possible out of it.
Sounds good. I would replace shift solenoid B when you feel like it to fix the delay
How hard is it to change the solenoids? I would like to replace them because my 2011 does the same thing. But once it’s warm, it shifts fine. Also, first gear has a slight delay and bump before it switches to second gear.
I have a 2013 ford escape 2.0 eco boost and sometimes when I am at cruising speed at 55 or even 40 and If I have to get on the gas to speed up and it down shifts to find a lower gear it sometimes makes a big thud and can feel it violently it seems and freaks me out. What can I do for that?
That may be a forward clutch piston seal leak (overhaul would be needed) but it could be something outside the transmission too. So it should be looked at in person
You think introducing new transmission fluid would help as it has 180,000 miles. And changing the solenoid B?
@@82ccraig if it's the forward piston, a service may make it worse.
I have 2011 Ford escape which feels like it has way too much torque in 1st gear unless I take off very slow. Seems weird but this is the newest vehicle I've ever owned and maybe it's normal. A little searching brought me here and has me Wondering if a solenoid is sticking now.
Thanks for video
@@skywater33 hi, maybe you can record a short video of the problem and post it on my discord or Facebook group. It may not have a problem. Or the converter clutch may be dragging
Ok when you explained the the front pump, that’s what happened to my car ( Ford Escape 2014) Does this mean it can’t be saved at all ? Even if it’s flushed?
Hi, you can try servicing, but I have before and it's beyond saving.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks yeah the mechanic said a used transmission $6400 only had it for a year
@@patsyprice6700 you can get a remanufactured transmission from the dealer for that price with a 3 year warranty
Have you seen many issues where they need a software reset? My buddy has a 2020 f350 and his 10 speed was acting up out of nowhere and the dealership reset it and it has been fine ever since.
Hi, I haven't seen that issue on a 6 speed escape before