Food Safe Finish ??
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2017
- What is and what isn't a food safe finish? Well, the answer to that is either up to your governmental agency or if you're deciding on your own personal use, then it's really up to you. Let's get into it.
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You have a radio voice. Seriously, you should do a podcast. Don't care what it's about, just do it.
LOL I was in broadcasting for 20 years and I do a podcast with 2 of my British friends. Have a look/listen when you're in the mood.......ua-cam.com/channels/3oAVt_45w3AeGmMsciq5_g.html
Dude, I like you and your delivery style. Rare to see a woodworker so conscious of the law. Interesting and fascinating combo!
"do you mind? cause if you mind ill ignore you." LOL that got my sub
I also really like your comment about what finish to use, re: organic oils and nut oils. I would never have even thought about the possibility of allergic reactions from finishes.
Spoken like a true litigator as heard by a true litigator. If someone thinks that they can sue you, they usually will.
Thanks for your video.
I appreciate your appreciation of the big brother govt nanny state I feel the same and good job on research and explaining science behind food safe. Be safe my friend it’s a dangerous world we’re in.
thank you for this. i am going to make a liquor dispenser out of a log and have been researching food safe finishes and this has helped alot
Thank you Chris, very helpful for me!
Thanks for this. I'm new to wood working and this was a big help
Awesome info! I totally forgot about some people being allergic to nuts. Thank you for the uploading in this subject!
The three states of matter: solids, liquids, and meat. I love it.
Made up my mind. Thanks Chris
I agree with you!!! And secondly all these stores are selling us stuff like that anyways I'm very pretty sure they're gonna cut corners to save money so I doubt that they're selling us things that are very protective and safe a 100% for us to eat or drink with!!
Love this one. I will do my own research. thank you
This is a good video to watch every couple of months as a reminder about curing.
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you friend.
AWESOME!!! I agree with you one million percent!
Thanks bud, I wish I can post a pic here on the project I am working on. Coconut shell utensils.. thanks for the tip
You got it and that sounds cool.
Another good one Chris. I like your emphasis on "curing" as opposed to "drying". Very important distinction.
My favourite food safe finishes are 3 parts beeswax to one part mineral oil (found in the drug store/pharmacy, rated for internal use). The other is shellac (cured as you mentioned). Shellac is used on many food products, including M&M's (or W&W's if you hold them the wrong way), fruit, and vegetables (so they look nice on the shelf).
Mmm, I love me some lac beetle excrement! I ate an apple earlier today with a nice shiny coat.
@@chriscute7528 I am building a cedar chicken coop ( some is not pure sapwood) My primary concern is treating the EXTERIOR for mold/fungus, and just water logging effect, if you will (if it sits in the shade and is wet, etc) Would the 3:1 beeswax to oil be a good 'sealer' of sorts (I know cedar is very porous) or something else? Thanks for this great video, addressing this!
@@chriscute7528 Hmm, Spar looks to be strongly weather resistant, but now concerned about the chemicals...Is there anything you recall (rated for 'indirect food contact') we could treat the chicken coop with yearly if need be? That would give it 'some' mildew/mold resistance that would also be safe for 'indirect food contact'. I don't think I need heavy protection as it will be moved and in the sun often. I literally chose cedar for it's natural tannins/wood to avoid having to worry about all the treatment. What would the beeswax 3:1 do after a year or so?
Also, I used Tightbond III in the construction, which is a cured product it appears and is rated for 'indirect food contact'. What do you think if I should just 'paint' the exterior with it? I've seen Titebond 3 hold up on a wood gate in our garden for some 4-5 years really well.
Thanks for your comment earlier. I really appreciate it!
@@chriscute7528 Chris, It does make sense that once a product has cured--catalyst has been activated, it is in a far more stable state. Thank you very much! Thanks again for your video!
@@chriscute7528 Chris, thank you for your reply. That makes sense about the beeswax. Take care.
Thanks for sharing this was quite helpful.
GREAT video!!!! The info you presented was done in a logical fashion...Well done.
Thank u! Best video on foodsafe finishing ive seen. As i O a man a kitchen knife n NEED 2 know how it can b finished
Thank you Chris!
Thanks Chris. I agree. Just stop worrying about it. Just Let it CURE...
Thank you for your video. I am doing some work using krylon spray paint on glassware, I am wanting to make it food safe, would this be considered a " finish" , with your experience how long does spray paint need to "cure"?
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing!!!👍👍👍
In your opinion what would be food safe for a wooden coffee mug? something that is going to be used daily with a hot liquid? I read somewhere that Tung oil is good for coffee mugs after 2 weeks of curing. What do you think?
Well Said!!!
Thank you!!!
Well said, Chris.
Thank you
thanks chris for the good info !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris I am so glad you released this video. Super informative and a great help to many. My question to you is would you consider mineral oil to be an organic oil? I know it's based off the by product of petroleum but petroleum happens to be organic. What's your opinion on mineral oils.
If I use polyurethane acrylic clear finish on a counter top after it has cured is it flammable, the can only talks about storing it.
keep them coming. great video
I subscribed the moment you said, "If you mind I'll ignore you"
thanks for clearing that ? up for me
Great vid. Very informative
Thank A lot Chris , I am starting to do the " food safe " FDA stuff and planing to sell . Your info will be a big help ...........I have used butcher block oil and applied bees wax over .
Good to know about nut oil going bad , have used walnut oil and applied bees wax on my own wine goblets and mugs..I am ok but I drink S.A. too so nothing will harm me .... Nothing can compare with S.A.
Thanks for the info. I sold a rolling pin to a restaurant so need to have it right
You're a very informative and funny guy! "You mind? Cuz if you mind; I'll ignore you. " 🤣
Great Video Chris. All of my research mirrors pretty much everything you said. It's all about curing time. That being said, certain finishes, when cured stand up to use better than others. Generally, I concern myself with whether this is going to be incidental contact i.e bar tops or table tops..... I've eaten food off both. Or is this for extended contact .... i.e salad bowls and spoons and drinkware. I also consider what the container is going to hold....... My mugs will be used for alcohol products for human consumption. Generally rum or whiskey and the interior finish should stand up to that. I did have some two part resins and epoxy's that didn't do well with extended contact to alcohol. All in all.... I agree... do you're reseach.Great video.
So happy I found this video!
I recently found a dough board in a vintage shop and was wanting to make sure the finish is food safe.
Any suggestions? Is there a way to remove whatever is on the board and start over again?
You can sand whatever is on it now off. In fact, that's probably the best way to do it. As far as a finish goes, I'd probably go with Mineral Oil or Shellac, but I'm wondering if a finish is even needed on a dough board.
I found a couple of epoxy resins that said that they are FDA approved or food safe but at the same time other people comment and say they’re good for chips or cookies but not for hot food what is your opinion
Very informative video, thank you!
Hello, first of all, thank you for a great video. I live in Turkey and there is no mineral oil for sale. What would you recommend I use instead? There is a Kitchen ware oil sale, I wonder if it will do the same.
Well said !!!
which ones are resistant to alcohol? I have some nice wooden shot glasses that need a alcohol stable finish.
outstanding!
Awesome you are right on it "Common sense is not common".
I've always wondered whats food safe for metals. Really wanted to make some platters and trays out of scraps I have lying around in the shop, but for some reason, I always thought they wouldn't be the best considering they don't have that stainless steel chrome-like finish. I would think that regular aluminum sanded down real nice to a mirror shine would be fine but then again, would it require anodizing? Weird how you never really think about that and just eat off whatevers served to you
Beeswax is considered food safe.
Great information to know. Great video
nice shop!
Curing isn't the only issue for epoxy, polyurethane, ect. Foods can be acidic or alkaline, for example, that may cause a reaction in the coating releasing chemicals.
thanks for info on curing aspect. Coming in "contact" is fine, but if it chips and gets into the food that's prob a different matter....so cured may not be sufficient?
Cured is absolutely sufficient. What size "chip" would someone have to consume in order to become ill? I mean c'mon, even if the entire thing flaked off into someone's mouth the substances are inert and wouldn't become hazardous again. Once the VOC's have evaporated they are gone and don't return.
Another good chat Chris. I think we should get see what Safety Dan has to offer on this subject LOL.
Probably a bit late to ask this lol. With the cup why not polyurethane on the whole thing or epoxy the whole thing? I ask because i 3d printed a cup that i plan to finish epoxy and polyurethane are both options that work on the materials i use. Hope to get a response if not experiments are good too lol.
Very Good info Chris, people should always read the warning and instructio0n labels prior to use.Thanks,DesertBum AKA Chuck
What finish would you recommend for the interior of a wooden mug I pretend to use for hot tea or coffe?
lol if you're just pretending, why finish it?
It's my understanding that *all* wood finishes are food-safe, once they're fully cured.
great job Chris. You didn't mention mineral oil. I was wondering what the rating was on mineral oil.
Chris Cute Thanx Chris I've always thought it was the best for me!
Mineral oil can be consumed. It is totally safe for food surfaces.
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you! I found my grandmother's old popcorn bowl and my love that thing it's a big oval bowl that's not real deep and it had a big oil stain in the middle and a black stain of some kind so I put oil all over it and I happen to use black walnut oil and then I saw where some guy said to use Walnut oil and beeswax but I got to thinking that's got to go rancid eventually. So I sanded the entire bowl and sanded out those stains and started looking for a way to finish this bowl I thought with polyurethane or something it didn't seem like with it being a popcorn bowl it should hurt too much. It's not like wet hot sloppy food set in it for hours. But what you're telling me doesn't matter and I am so excited! I do a lot of chalk painting and I was about ready to wax that dude with Johnson & Johnson floor wax hehe! Just kidding! That stuff smells so bad you'd think it shouldn't be used indoors!
Thanks a lot!!!! Just because “is cure is food save” thats more than enough
Are you saying do as you do?
Slightly off topic but if I want to add some color to my old cutting boards what natural color besides tea would you suggest?
@@chriscute7528 Thanks Sir!!
Is there a food safe sealant that is matte? I'm searching all over and see you can add Shellac Flat to Shellac?
I've never used a Shellac Flat so my advice here isn't worth much. The best alternative that I can come up with would be General Finishes "Salad Bowl Finish". It isn't flat, but it's not high gloss either.
Hi can you recommend a sealer that is non toxic non flammable. I'm making vessels for candles with rapid all cement and need a sealer that won't release toxic chemicals while candle is burning. Thanks
I'm not an expert on cement, but I'd think just about any concrete sealer would be fine as long as you let it cure before using.
@@chriscute7528 ok thank you
You remind me of some sarcastic men I love and cuss at alot. I say this because I care; life's too short to waste on Samual Adams ;) I live in Oregon so I'm spoiled on porters, stouts, and hops beers
"And that's all I have to say about that". In regards to your mystery finish, would it be somehwhat relatable to the ol French polish method ?
Love a guy that starts his vid with a Sam
great advice Chris can't actually believe I was the first to watch it!!!
I prefer Boysenberry Rosin myself. Let dry, use, then seek out a cure...or listen to The Cure. Same Same.
I am new here, I like your way to talk, you are so educated person I felt I was reading palers or articles 😂😄👍👍
Thanks. That's very nice of you to say.
Yes, I think Michael Dresdner and Bob Flexner (2 of the 3 most famous finishing experts/authors in the USA) both say ALL common wood finishes ARE food safe ---once cured, as you point out.
Yeah but so it's cured on a cutting board then it is flaked up by a knife and ends up in the food. A salad bowl is going to be beat on with utensils compromising the finish.
And just how much of that finish do you think you would ingest? After it's cured it's inert meaning that it is now no different than the shellac put on your children's toys and the candy you eat.
Thank you for the upload! I am really curious, the cutting-board you said is finished in wax and oil but is so laborious it's not worth mentioning, what kind of oils are you using? Since organic-based oils go bad, I'm assuming you're not using them but I also couldn't imagine you're rubbing car oil on it lol.
LOL It's not car oil. I'm still developing it, so please forgive me if I don't give you the partuculars.
Hi Chris, great video thank you. Just wondering if you would have any advice on what would be safe to use on ie concrete bowls?
Hmm, good question. I've never sealed a concrete bowl myself, but considering how porous concrete is, you'll want something. There are concrete sealers on the market, but they're not meant to make things pretty just to shed water. I might go that route first, but again, make sure it cures.
OK, you got me curious so I did a little looking around. Check out a product called "Aqua X 11" It's a clear penetrating finish used for concrete and many other things. See if that looks like what you're interested in.
@@chriscute7528 thx Chris. Its a bit of a mystery surrounding the concrete, I've not come across any advice on sealing it in order to be food safe.
@@chriscute7528 ohh you're a speedy googlist :) I've been sifting through it for weeks, months even to no avail. I've been making dinner plates and cups from concrete and they're pretty to look at but it'd be a shame not to put them to use. Off to check out your suggestion :) thank you.
Another good one, Chris! I enjoyed it. So, what's next in "Mr. Cute's World of Finishes" lecture series? C'mon, professor...give us a hint! :)
The last one!!?? Noooooo!!!!
@@chriscute7528 lecture may have the wrong connotation to you but to me it means information delivered by someone you trust to do their research and share their knowledge. I appreciate this "lecture" and your time to produce it!
Can good filla- non toxic wood filler be used for my personal home made cutting board? It has two big cracks. Thank you!
I don't see why not. I'd question the durability of it on a cutting board tho.
@@chriscute7528 Thank you! 😊
Great video, I agree totally. I use polyurethane for food after it has cured.
Hello Chris , I was wondering if applying mineral oil to resin wood bowls is the same and safe. Second, do you use mineral oil then apply salad bowl finisher after? The other way around? Or just one of your choosing?
A) There is not point in applying mineral oil over a resin piece. There is nothing for it to absorb into so it makes no sense. B) It's an either/or situation. Either use just the mineral oil or use only the salad bowl finish. The 2 are not compatible.
Chris Cute what would you recommend for a resin wood bowl that is food safe?
@@xxjcxx1625 If the resin has absorbed into the wood, then there really isn't a need for anything else. Once it's cured, it's safe. If you have exposed wood that hasn't been covered, then I would recommend either more resin to cover it or a film finish.
@@xxjcxx1625 But it's really hard to give you a perfect answer without seeing the piece you're talking about.
Common sense 👍 unknown in government departments.. in my opinion
hear, hear! 🤓👍
chris cute you are my real dad
Boston Red Sox and Sam Adams ......don't get better than that
Food safe ok. But how about your kids toys. I saw you spray paint several items and really made me wonder what is safe for them?
linseed has been used forever, what do you say about this
@@chriscute7528 I don't own any to verify this but I believe I read it does not go rancid and once cured is food safe.
@@chriscute7528 so you're saying even linseed oil can turn rancid?
@@chriscute7528 Thanks I definitely will re watch yr video and then Google linseed oil
Thank you, Great video, terrible hat. NYY!
linseed and walnut oil is food safe
So long as the person doesn't have a nut allergy.
(The rancid natural oils comment) at (7:35)
"One day I came home to find my roommate throwing a bbq with friends and family. Well, he found my old "fry daddy" with ten year old crisco under the cabinet and proceeded to use it for French fries. Needless to say, the fries were ruined. But "After trying one out of curiosity," I will never forget that taste for as long as I live!😝🍟 "Soooo bitter!"
this guy sounds like markaplier
Well, isn't that cute. Chris cute. Lol
I drink nitro from the can and I feel great
Dangit my woods teacher had me use teak oil on a cup I turned
There is nothing wrong with using teak oil for that.
What is the governmental guideline for using Samuel Adams beer as a food-safe finish?!!!
_< rimshot >_
:
my lawyer would like to have a word with you
Beer should always be the primer coating for any food safe finish. Seriously, food safeness involves not just short-term contact, but liquid immersion for some time, acids from tomato sauces or citrus or vinegars, etc, alcohols in beverages, heat from soups and hot baked or fried foods. Organic oils ironically sound great, but microorganisms can thrive on them which you don't want; they generally also never cure, or harden, or "dry," like mineral oil, but it is inert, passively soaking in to fill voids which otherwise will lay in wait to take in germs, bacteria, viruses, etc. Many commercial finishes may be "foodsafe" yet contain materials which remain after curing, and which might be ingested, should the coating peel off. The Watco Butcher Block Oil looks interesting, as it has both safe tung oil which naturally hardens, along with alkyd resins that also harden, making for a far tougher, water resistant finish.
... Did you say "Hand Rubbing"?!!
Thanks for braving the safety trolls!