My Favorite Food Safe Wood Finish for Tried and True Original Finish non-toxic wood bowls Video
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- Tried and True Original Wood Finish is my favorite finish for many reasons. First, it's food safe and non-toxic. Tried and True has only natural ingredients and only two at that; linseed oil and beeswax. It is super easy to apply and it offers an elegant natural finish that lets the texture and grain of the wood take the spotlight. I use this product on the majority of my wood turned bowls.
In this video, I show exactly how to apply Tried and True Original using the simple and easy three-step method recommended by the manufacturer.
By the way, I am not paid to promote this product by the manufacturer. I'm recommending this product because I use it regularly and I believe it is the best option when applying a natural-looking, yet durable finish to wooden bowls.
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respirator changeable filters - amzn.to/3mgJeuY
See all my woodturning safety gear recommendations
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Tried and True Original Non-Toxic Wood Finish:
1 Gallon Size - amzn.to/2NgHPW7
1 Quart Size - amzn.to/2Tg8FSj
1 Pint Size - amzn.to/2TnGVLH
0000 Steel Wool - amzn.to/383cdLV
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I love Tried and True products. They give a nice sheen and I don’t have to worry about toxins. I think most folks that have trouble with this finish don’t follow the directions and apply too much - then it doesn’t cure in 24 hrs. Again, love the video and love the product. Highly recommended for artistic pieces and pieces that require a safe finish.
Thanks for sharing, John. Yes, great product indeed. Happy Turning!
Because of you I went and bought Tried and true linseed with pine resin. I really love it, this is perfect. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent, Trippy. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
A successful part of your videos is that you are a great teacher. Everything down to the review at the end :) Thx
Thanks Michael! Much appreciated! Happy Turning!
No idea where to get Tried & True here in Europe, but beeswax & linseed oil is relatively easy to mix. Just melt the beeswax and warm (not heat) the linseed oil, both can be done au-bain-marie. Mix them at a roughly 1 wax to 4 oil ratio (in mass), stir, put in a jar, close the jar.
For a more glossy finish, also foodsafe, make a stick out of pure beeswax, hold it against your project on the lathe while it's turning, then rub it in with a cloth with the lathe still turning. At the same time that you feel the cloth get warm, you'll also see the gloss come up. It's from the wax melting and seeping into the wood. Pretty easy to buff up later as well.
Love T&T finishes! I add one step: I follow steel wool burnishing with a paper towel burnish to make sure I’ve gotten all of the steel wool dust off the surface.
Good idea. Thank you for writing and sharing!
This is very helpful. I make cutting boards and finding a good food-safe finish has been a challenge. Thank you!
You are welcome. Glad this helps!
I’ve used Danish oil for quite a while, but this method is WAY easier than how I’ve been doing it!
Great to hear! Happy Turning!
I have no earthly idea why I watched this…I don’t turn bowls, pens or anything….but I did find this to be a relaxing video to watch with my morning coffee. And the bowls are beautiful. I do however, restore old woodworking tools and rescued furniture. I am a fan of Tried and True (my favorite is the Varnish Oil). Of other value is the recommended respirator! I would guess that turning bowls, like the woodworking I do, keeps one out of sight of the wife…and the risk of having more additions to the “honey do” list! Thank you, sir!
All thumbs up here. LOL All the best to you and Happy … Woodworking!
I've been using Tried and True for a while.It is the best food safe finish I have found(available in Canada).I even use it on a lot of items that don't need to be food safe.
I agree Bob! Happy Turning!
To my regret I missed this lesson when it first came out. For the last couple of months I have been applying Tried and True to my bowls. Having only the written instructions to refer to, I applied a super-thin amount of T&T, and I mean super-thin. This video showed me that I have been taking waaay too long to apply it. Thank you very much for the clarification!
Glad you have it now. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
There have been tests on this vs all other types and Tung oil is the only one that doesn’t bleed into food and doesn’t need re application. Also can survive being boiled.
Hi Kent,
I usually apply only linseed oil to the bowls and goblets that I turn.
I think it's important to emphasize that if someone wishes to apply linseed oil to their wooden bowls, he/she should only buy it in designated health shops / supermarkets, which is food-safe.
The boiled linseed oil that is being sold in various hardware / paint shops - is mixed with chemicals and is very toxic and should only be used for furniture, etc. - never for coating wooden bowls, cups and spoons.
That being said, thanks for all of your videos - you are an excellent teacher and I love watching your material.
I understand your point. That is why I recommend Tried and True products. They are all pure and food-safe. Thanks and Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent just got my tried and try finish to my latest project and I love how it makes the grain come out thanks again
Wonderful, Hank. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I've been using Tried and True for a while even before getting into turning, it's a great finish
Thank you so much for the video. I cook professionally and have recently purchased myself a new chef knife. The knife is amazing, but the handle is essentially raw magnolia wood. This seems like a perfect way to safely seal the wood against food and repeated cleaning.
Should work well and makes a nice finish to the touch too. Enjoy!
Ordered some and tried it out.. FANTASTIC....Thanks for the suggestion....
Glad you like it! Happy Turning!
I really enjoyed this video, Kent! Finishing is a mystery for many and these demos really help easily overwhelmed turners, like myself, see the application, effort and end result without lots of expense. I look forward to more.
As always Kent another fantastic video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you and Happy Turning!
Turned out nice
Thanks
Insteadof using a piece of cloth for applying the oil-beeswax mix I use in that stage already a piece of steelwool. I've learned this from the famous Irish turner Glen Lucas.
Pieter Hermans why
Great tutorial, I learned a lot. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!
Great tip on that finish, not familiar with it. Have always been a walnut oil fan and beeswax. The burnishing is a great idea which I will try as opposed to buffing the walnut oil. Thanks and happy turning from MT
Will this finish seal a goblet for standing liquid without staining the wood?
Thank you Kent! Loved the video. What really makes this video to stand out is that it feeds you with just enough information to do the job. Your comments are detailed and yet right to the point. You made me buy this product :). Just one question: what happens if you repeat the application after buffing? Thank you again and happy turning to all!
Adding additional layers is okay. Many times I'll add Tried and True Danish oil, which is just the linseed as touch up coats later. But additional coats of T&T Original can be applied as well. Thanks and take care!
Interesting, I use flaxseed oil on my spoons. Thanks for the info.
You bet!
Being trained in the Loughboro College for woodworking, and Edward Barnsley was the advisor, we used thinned shellac as a primer then beeswax, but warned NOT to use steel wool, as the metal particles can get into the grain and produce rust, hence we used fine USED glass paper, The wood we used was mostly English Oak, and Sapele.
I enjoy your articles, but would like to know about the blocks you use to set the tools for the corerect angles.
Peter, that's good info. Thank you for sharing!
Great video..very informative. I have a birch tray that has a hand painted design on it. it has 1 coat of matte water based varnish on it but I would like to have it food safe. Can I use this product over the current finish?
Enjoyed your video! Definitely going to use it on my next bowl. Thanks
Awesome! Thank you! Enjoy! Happy Turning!
Nice Video. Im not a fan of steel wool; have you tried a scotchbrite pad? Im going to give this finish a try and compare to the mahony's walnut oil followed by mahony's utility wax which is a blend of his walnut oil with beeswax and carnuba wax. thanks again for the great video
Dan
You mentioned that you can rejuvenate a piece that has been finished with the Original Finish by using just the Danish Oil however, according to Tried and True’s FAQ, once the Original Finish has been applied, the only thing that should be applied over it is another wax-based finish. The Danish Oil with just the linseed oil wouldn’t penetrate and cure on top of the finish that has the beeswax (that’s my take on what they’re saying, at any rate)
Hm? I'll check that out. Thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!
Ordered some today, thanks
Enjoy
Question do you have any particles of the steel wool get embedded into the wood and would that be a hazard?
Good question. I have not had that be an issue. If the wood is smooth and the finish is applied properly, it shouldn't be an issue. Happy Turning! Kent
Thank you! I’m going to talk to a friend who makes honey and try make my own blend with macadamia oil 🇦🇺👍
Sounds great! Let us know how it turns out. Enjoy!
I burnish with a handful of shavings.
Yes, that can work also. Not sure if it's a precise as 0000 steel wool, but it can work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for a great video! When the T&T is 100% hardened, is the bowl durable against e.g. hot soups? My concern is hot liquids would dissolve the hardened T&T resulting in cracks, especially at those points where the end grain is situated. Thank you!
I’m going to try this
How many wash cycles could a wooden cutting board finished with this product withstand before needing to be re-applied? Secondly, what material do you reckon would be best for a cutting board that is primarily used for cleaving meat and bone? I would imagine that a meat cleaver would scar and mar most wooden and plastic cutting boards.
Good question! It will depend on how rough the board is used. A simple reapplication of a touch up finish, like Tried and True Danish Oil is all that is needed. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I think you did a very nice video on t&t. Thanks.
It might be worthwhile to point out that not all ‘linseed’ oil is food safe. Tried and True Original uses polymerized linseed oil which is safe as a finish for food contact, but "boiled" linseed oil is not due to additives and metallic dryers.
Good point, thanks for sharing! Happy Turning!
Hi, I wonder if this finish would work for a wooden cups (kuksa) that will have a hot liquid in it? Such as coffee or tea. Thank you for amazing video.
Not sure. Might try. It will depend on the wood grain tightness too. Happy Turning!
What if we don't have one of the spinny things? Can I put steel wool on a drill?
Hello, Do you ever use a friction polish? Can you explain why or why not? Thank you. Beth
Elizabeth,
Good question.
Most of the pieces I make are designed to show off the wood. Friction polish is for high gloss finishes and I've found works well for smaller items. Also, I like a simple, quick finishing process. I hope that helps a bit.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Nice video with a clear explanation. How do you address the residue from the steel wool,small piece of wool left behind? Are you wiping it down with a clean cloth again? Thanks
Hello Karl and thanks for the comment. I've found little to no residue from the steel wool. But, yes, if you'd like you can also use a cloth to make a final pass.
I've had this same issue in the past. Using steel wool left a grey smear. I certainly could have been doing something wrong.
How does this finish hold up to things like forks, knives, etc
First time user of this product. He did not discuss if it was better to have multiple coats. My understanding is that it should have 3 to 4.
One coat works very well. If you apply super thin coats and let them cure properly, yes you can do several coats. You can also touch up with just T&T Danish Oil which is the same minus the beeswax.
Hi Kent, I have some wooden salad bowls made in Vermont that I've had for about 25 year. Unfortunately they've developed a musty smell and are really not pleasant to use. The bowls appear to have no finish on them. Any thoughts on how to remove the smell? Thank you!
Dave B Crossville TN Wood Bowl Turning
Thanks for entering! Happy Turning!
Just found your channel and subscribed. Good information.
Awesome, thank you! Welcome and Happy Turning!
Looks like a great product. What would you tell a customer or relative regarding maintenance? Expecting them to buy a specific product, that's not readily available, might be unrealistic.
If it needs to be touched up, I recommend adding a coat or two of T&T Original Linseed oil. It's super simple. Other food grade oils can be used too for touch ups.
Great video. I'm building a large Maple counter-top [36" x 68"] that will sit on top of my granite counter-top. It's going to be used for bread & pizza making. Specifically, the dough will be turned out onto the hardwood counter-top for kneading, etc. After the counter-top is cut, glued, and sanded, I will be staining it with a walnut-type color stain; then will apply the Tried & True finish on top of the stained wood. Since this will be a food-prep surface, is there any potential hazard of the stain seeping through the T&T finish?
Good question. I would think it will be fine as long as the stain is allowed to dry and cure. Test on a scrap piece of material first. All the best to you!
can you put hot soup in the bowls after it dry's
Hi, thank you for posting this. It was very educational. I’m thinking of buying some wooden bowls to replace all of my plastic bowls. I know I shouldn’t have bought plastic in the first place but anyway… I have a question if I were to eat hot soup out of one of these bowls, would the finish prevent the soup from absorbing into the bowl? In other words is it only recommended to eat things like maybe cold things out of wooden bowls or can one also, eat hot foods out of wooden bowls?
David W. , Philadelphia, PA Tree to Bowl course
Thank you for entering! Happy Turning!
Your bowls are beautiful I have a question for you what would you seal a wood bowl with so you can make a candle with it
Diana, I'm not sure exactly what you are asking.
Would this finish stand up with alcohol contact? I'm looking to finish some shot glasses, but I haven't found a finish that wouldn't get stripped out.
Oolah B.
Redwood Valley, California
BOWL
Thanks for entering! Happy Turning!
Looks like a great finishing option. Question - once you finish turn the bottom, do you do the same technique...1) light coat /dry 1hr and wipe...2) dry 24 hrs. and buff by hand?
Yes, indeed. Good question. Thank you, Tony and Happy Turning!
it appears that you are using a ROCKLER lathe , if so are there any + highlights. I would appreciate any assistance you will part with and those bowls were absolutely splendid
Hello Ronald, no not a Rockler, it's a Robust. Here check it out turnawoodbowl.com/robust-sweet-16-wood-lathe-review/ Happy Turning!
What are the washing instructions? After you eat your salad or what ever they need to be washed.
Simply wipe it clean and you can use mild soap and hand wash. Towel dry immediately. No dishwasher or microwave.
Thank you. 👍🏻
Can I use this on wood that’s been colored with food dye?
Yes, sample an area to test first. Enjoy!
Hi Kent,
I'm a Senior (78) and about 10 months ago bought a lathe......"never" turned wood before (hence a new hobby). I've made a number of spindle items and have progressed to bowls. I should say my FIRST bowl.....which I just finished yesterday. I wanted this to be a Food-Safe finish.
I think I messed up !!
I applied clear coat of Danish Oil and days later I bought food-safe WATCO Butcher Block oil and finish. I waited a few days after the Danish oil and then applied the Butcher Block oil.
My Novice type Question is:
Is my bowl food safe since I applied it OVER the Danish Oil finish ?
If not, I'll turn another bowl from the same log.
(I wish I had come across your video BEFORE I did my so-called finishing....)
Thank You, Richard (West Boylston, MA)
All finishes by U.S. Law are food safe after curing. What we mean to say is the finish is more easily re-applied if damaged or worn by time.
Thanks for sharing. Sounds accurate. Happy Turning!
Is the oil still flammable after applying it to the surface?
Eric, Yes, the rags are definitely flammable. Soak used rags in water and then let them air out outdoors before disposing.
Wonderful and informative video. Thanks. One question- tried and true does not come in colors, blue, green, red, and I was wondering if a small amount of oil paint could be mixed with it? Would it still be food safe? thanks.
Anne, good question. I'm not sure about this. If you want to add color, perhaps an alcohol dye could work. I'd say experiment with small scrap wood and see what happens. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Did you seal the bowl with sanding sealer first
Nope.
Hi Kent, helpful video as they all seem to be. So I tried the tried and true finish but put it on a bowl that had some resin gaps filled. Not thinking, the finish did not stick or look the same on the resin parts. Is there a film finish I can put on top like Generals bowl finish or do I need to strip the bowl (sand or shear scrape)? I am worried the beeswax will not allow another finish to go on top? Thanks for any help.
Lacquer is a good solution. Check this out turnawoodbowl.com/spray-lacquer-illustrated-guide-equipment-system-set-up-technique/
Beautiful! What kind of wood are your bowls? We are making some furniture for my little guy with pine and I'm trying to visualize how the finish will look.
These bowls are honey locust. Pine should look great. It will warm the color a bit but should look fantastic. Enjoy!
I am enjoying your videos. I am going to try making shellac. As soon as flakes are available and i can find denatured alcohol in Canada.
Thank you. They might call the alcohol "methylated spirits" in Canada. I believe that's what they call it in Europe as well. You can also use very high proof drinking alcohol.
You can also just use grain drinking alcohol (like Everclear).
Hello Kent, Love your video. I am making a cutting board from an end grain cottonwood tree. How would I burnish the board? Would I do it with a sand paper since it's a flat surf and not on a spinner? I appreciate your advice. Thank you
Rub it with 0000 steel wool. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I used this for guitar too just bc.
I want this guitar so clean you could eat off of it!
2:17 What is it made of? I can't find that brand here where I live.
Jessica, see my Recommended Equipment Guide www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/gear
Is the finish waterproof? I made a Beautiful wooden mug and I want it to be functional
No, water resistant. Epoxy might be your answer.
jacob headworth Though some epoxy resins are technically considered “food safe for incidental food contact” all that really means is if it’s a non oily, non alcoholic, non powdered, room temp (not hot or cold) food item it can touch it from a few seconds to a few minutes (I researched into this and remember being surprised at how ridiculously low the amount of time and how many stipulations it had as to what kind of food item could touch it) without having interaction between the surfaces. Another stipulation is that the epoxy resin would have to be completely unadulterated (clear without coloring or other additives which could technically be achieved by doing a top coat over colored epoxy resin).
So basically I would say you aren’t going to die from drinking or eating off a surface with epoxy resin every once in a while, but you probably will be consuming a tiny bit of epoxy and should you do that in some sort of frequency over years of exposure to what is essentially a plastic you are bound to get some sort of effect from it whether that is something that is measurable and possible to attribute to said epoxy consumption is likely to be difficult though.
I have been on the hunt for something that could be used for this kind of purpose still myself.... so far I haven’t found a non toxic finish that is “waterproof” and from what i have surmised is that the best you can do is to use a food safe finish with a food safe wax finish like bees wax and or carnauba wax. It’ll would only be water resistant. It still would wear down, you wouldn’t be able to leave it with fluid soaking in it and fats, alcohol and hot/cold would still probably remove some of the finish causing you to need to periodically reapply as the cup “looks dry”. But at least you wouldn’t be hurting yourself because it’s a food safe finish.
miles miller thanks for your advice! I appreciate it 🙏
Great video. Two questions. First, you put the applicator back into the jar and close the jar. Is it safe to leave it there long term until you use it again? How long is ok? And two, can I use Norton Bear-Tex Nylon Hand Pads instead of the cloth applicator and the steel wool, using non-abrasive and then ultra-fine respectively? Thanks
Yes you can, and I recommend putting the applicator back in the jar. If the applicator is left out the finish will oxidize on the cloth and it will become hard as the finish cures. Happy Turning!
Hi, I have a question. I want to make a Goblet for my wife can i stain or paint the goblet before using this?
Yes, you need to find a waterproof finish or paint. Happy Turning!
Kent, you hit it out of the park again with an excellent video. I’ve learned so much from you since delving into turning and I truly appreciate your efforts and your methodical teaching. If I may ask a few questions? Do you sign the piece first? And after this process do you re-chuck the bowls to burnish the bottoms? TIA
Thanks Al!👍 I sign the bottom and then hand touch up the finish and hand burnish the bottom. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks again Kent!
Hi Kent. Thank you for the video. I was using your shellac method. Now confused,,,,, I have been adding shellac to everything I turn, Please advise... great work again. Halim from Sydney Aust
I use shellac to seal end grain if it's problematic and I use shellac as an undercoat for a gloss lacquer finish. When I use T&T Original, I use it all by itself. Sorry for any confusion. Happy Turning!
can this be used on outside wooden boxes for the garden? Is it waterproof?
No, it is water-resistant and designed more for kitchen woodware that will come into contact with food.
@@TurnAWoodBowl thanks!
Greg C
Huntington wv
Bowl
Thanks for entering! Happy Turning!
I have some red oak strips left from stair treads. I thought about carving some spoons. Do I have to do anything special for the wood? Or is it just carve and treat it? It seems like it may rot over time???
This is the perfect finish for you. No need to do any other treatments. Give it a whirl, I think you'll like.
What type of wood are these pieces?
👌👌👏
Do you reapply and how often?
George, you can but I only do so when the piece looks a bit dry or worn. Happy Turning!
i can not find your favorite wood finish anywhere. what about ''butcher block'' oil? food safe.
Here you go amzn.to/33jqruN
I realize this video is a bit old, but I’ll throw out a question: after your bowls have been used a while, are you able to reapply this finish to touch it up? Thanks!
Jeff, yes you can touch up any time with the same finish or Tried and True's Danish Oil. Happy Turning!
My wife was watching this video with me and she commented that she likes the wood that the bowls are made from... which begs the question: What wood is this?
Thanks. Honey locust. Happy Turning!
Hi,
You mentioned that you would put a link to the respirator below. I searched but couldn’t find the link. If you wouldn’t mind, could you share that information. Thanks!
Done! Here you go amzn.to/31CQn0K and here are the filters amzn.to/3mgJeuY
Hi Kent like your content very much. What do you do if burnishing on the lathe is not an option? (Like spoons, forks or once turned green bowls after drying and they are all wonky)
Good question. Just rub the surface down with the same 0000 steel wool. Requires a bit more elbow grease. That's all. Happy Turning!
Thanks for the content, just subscribed. I noted that you are only apply one coat. So is it a waste to apply subsequent coats after burnishing the first application? thanks in advance!! (I just bought some of this as it came recommended to me from a fellow turner, and discovered your how-to video)
Thank you, Jay. I usually don't do multiple coast because the first coat looks great. You can add additional coats, just make sure they are thin and don't apply too much. Thick application will leave a gummy surface. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
How do you apply Tried and True to the bark on live edge bowls?
Lightly apply and remove with a lint free cloth.
Nice video, just got some and about to use it. Any suggestions for a bowl that as resin accents? I assume it will not absorb the finish. Thanks!
I've applied this over epoxy insets and it works great. Happy Turning!
Kent, a very informative video - thanks much for doing this! One question, any issues using steel wool (0000) on a bowl you are going to put food in? I was thinking of small pieces of metal getting embedded into the wooden bowl and that would not be desirable (although we all can use some iron in our blood). thanks again
That's a legitimate concern. I'll bring that up with the Tried and True guys and see what they say. Happy Turning!
So I don’t need to use a sanding sealer as some vids say to?
No, you don't need a sanding sealer. Actually some people recommend against sanding sealers all together because some have grit added to them and cause more roughing of the surface. Keep it simple.
Can you burnish with a buffing wheel?
Yes, but you will have oil on your wheel.
Great video thank you. I’m using Tried and True Varnish Oil, but now I would like to melt some beeswax into it. Do you know of a good recipe ratio?
Thanks for writing. No, I do not mix beeswax into my finishes. I'd recommend trying the Tried and True Original which already contains beeswax.
Look up DIY cutting board/block finish/oil and skip the ridiculous price of this stuff.There's numerous oil that can be used,along with other natural waxes than beeswax,and there is also different concoctions of them.
They'll all still add up to less than what you pay for a gallon of this crap.
If you want to mix in beeswax yet it all depends on what finish you're going for.
You can mix in about any ratio you want.Anything from like 12:1,9:1,3:1, and any other one you like.The more wax you put in the thicker it will bee,yep....experiment is the name of the game when finding the exact finish you want,not asking someone theirs.
Hey Kent, loving the videos and I'm half way through your course 'Wood bowl turning start to finish" I like the sound of the food safe finish but I'm unable to get Tried & True in the Uk, however I can get beeswax oil and boiled Linseed oil here, can I make it myself and if so what do you think the mix would? 50x50 or so?
Not sure if there is a quick easy answer, but I have been using mylands cellulose sanding sealer, followed by OB shine juice. The next day, most of my beautiful shine is gone , presumably soaked into the wood. I even have tried using 2 or 3 coats of the sanding sealer, without much change. Any hints? Or should I switch to a different finish? The T&T Doesn't look like it would give the Kind of luster I'm after.
Thanks so much!
We have a chemist member in our turning group and he insists sanding sealer is no good for making a shiny finish because it contains silica or grit. If you want a shiny surface, try a base "sanding" coat of pure shellac (see my video) and then spray lacquer coats over that. If you want an oil-based finish to shine, it will need many coats to soak and fill the wood cells. Happy Turning!
Thank you Kent. I appreciate your response. 👍
Does this work on stone inlay wood to
Yes
How dose one burnish a plate if you don’t have a turner?
Good question. Simply rub it with 0000 steel wool. The lathe is just a fast lazy way to do the same thing. ;)
Have used the product, and was not thrilled. However, I seemed to miss the burnish part. Back to the lathe I go
Yeah, give it another try. Also, only apply a super thin layer. If you see finish on the wood, that is plenty. Return after one hour and wipe any excess off. If you apply too much or don't come back after an hour and wipe it down you can get thick sticky areas. Once you get the steps down, including the burnishing after 24 hours, I think you'll like this product. Thanks.
Hi I am trying the original tried and true finish but it appears much thicker than what you’re using is this normal?
WIpe the applicator cloth first and only apply a thin layer. You might need to warm the room where you are applying as well. The beeswax will get thicker in colder environments. Happy Turning!