*Update:* I replaced the crappy case with this one from Huot: amzn.to/483qUP3 Initial impressions are it’s a *HUGE upgrade* and am gonna take a closer look for an upcoming video.
The one benefit of buying a cheap set like that, is that you have all the sizes you use rarely, and the sizes that you use often, can be swapped out for better quality bits as they fail.
Exactly correct. I plan to stockpile the size I end up using most frequently, and keep the index on hand for the oddball sizes and one-offs that come up when repairing some random gadget or part around the house and workshop.
Thanks man! I was worried I was rambling too much before I got to cutting metal but I thought it was worth explaining why I picked this set over the others I had looked at. Thanks for the sub!!
I've had the same set for a long time and they have performed well. I loaned it to the guys and work and they ruined one immediately in a hand drill drilling into an I-beam. I took the next size up and finished 22 more holes and it was cutting just fine. These work well but if you don't know how to drill a hole, and most people you meet don't, no drill bit will work.
I think that's the root cause of a lot of the bad reviews. People who don't know how to use a tool are upset when the tool doesn't work right or breaks.
@@ShopHumor Cobalt-alloy drills are more brittle than regular high-speed steel (HSS). That means they stay sharper longer but they will snap more easily with sideloads or shocks and need careful handling. There are two common grades of cobalt drills, M35 and (what the Harbor Freight set claims) M42 which has more cobalt content. I tend to use M35 cobalt for most work in hard materials. Cobalt taps are especially prone to snapping if not handled very carefully. Good-quality cutting compound is a must for tough materials. You will never use most of the drills in that set but it's pretty to look at. A better bet would be to get packs of specific drill sizes you use a lot and learn how to sharpen drills at home. It's a satisfying skill to acquire.
The ability to shape and sharpening your own cutting tools is definitely an invaluable skill. Since I got my little Grizzly G0602 lathe recently I’ve been working on making my own HSS turning tools from blanks and it’s been fun.
So many people go full speed with a drill bit in a hand drill while bearing down on it and then complain that the bits are useless, dull easily, and break. A little care will get you decent service out of even halfway decent bits. You did a good job of providing a quality review and I look forward to more!
one hole in Alum,, one hole in brass,, and one hole in mild steel with an auto feed and this is what you consider a quality review.. No one here even understands that there are three different sets there and they are NOT Cobalt...
I thought I was a bit tough on drills until a coworker borrowed my drill press (and drills) for a project. He nearly lifted himself off the floor with the weight he put on the drill's handle while drilling holes.
I've watched people actually get a drill bit glowing from bearing down on it so hard while going full speed with it. Heck, I've been surprised they didn't weld it to the workpiece!
I am the Reddit user who asked for those reviews, lol. I ignored those negative Nancy’s and bought it anyway and I have to say I’ve been really pleased with it. No issues at all hold up fine cut fine. I think it’s a winner.
Hey man, thanks for posting that on Reddit!! I found your post to be helpful and inspirational, haha. Much appreciated. I'm glad the set is working out well for you!
i've had these for a while, got them with a coupon so it was like $80, i've been really happy with them.. largest most comprehensive drill bit set i've ever owned, they've served me well thus far
They crap on anything that costs less than they paid for some high end name brand set, to justify the cost of their tools. I see this ALL the time in the firearms industry as well.
@@GlassWolfLHI see it all the time in RC as well, cheap tools from a local hardware shop, that have worked great for me for years, can't possibly be better than the monkey metal tools they have that cost 5x as much and need to be replaced every so often, theirs are better because they're from an rc manufacturer 😂
You don't buy a harbor freight set like this for the quality, you buy it for the variety. A production shop doing ten thousand 1/4in holes a day? Yeah no shit they're gonna invest in the drill with the best longevity, bc time is money. As a hobbiest? You might not drill that many holes ever lol. But having exactly the right size drill in your toolbox that one time a year you need some random sized hole is worth every penny of what a set like this costs.
Exactly right - and just like the production shop, if you want to stockpile a few of your most commonly used sizes, then do it. But it’s so handy to have a complete index at your disposal for whenever you might need an oddball size. Thanks for the comment!
Exactly, time is money. I used to be a foreman, doing construction. We used 1/8, #11, and 7/16, constantly. The company bought them in packages of 10 to 25, depending on size. I had one guy argue with me, he wanted to sharpen a dull 7/16 bit. I said, throw it away, and grab another. He said, but I can just sharpen it. I cut it off square, with a chop saw. I said, there, take it home, and sharpen it! I had to explain it to him, you are paid $30 an hour. It costs the company over $60 an hour, by the time they pay benefits, FICA, comp, etc. If you take 5 minutes, to sharpen that drill, it costs the company $5, plus, it still might not be sharp, and you are losing 5 minutes of production time. It is cheaper to throw the bit away. For home use, go ahead and sharpen, at work, pitch it.
Yeah, I needed a "P" size (8.15mm) to drill out my bicycle rims to convert them from French to Schroeder valves. Cheap drill set full of random bits I've never used to the rescue!
@@j.f.christ8421 Heck yeah. There's really no substitute for having the right tool for the job, on hand. If you like to DIY or tinker or repair odds and ends, you're going to run into that kind of thing from time to time.
I run a machine shop and have been using these for several years. They are good quality and the price is impossible to beat. They are 135deg split point bits and the material they are made of performs well in all materials. I recommend them often!
Thanks for the comment. Guys like you who run machine shops and put tools to the test day in and day out get my attention when you say something is worth a crap. You'll get more time on those machines in a day than I get on them in a year. Much appreciated.
I think that tends to happen a lot, too. Don't get me wrong, I've broken my share of drill bits over the years, but it's always been my own dang fault either pushing too hard, not minding my speed, or using the wrong bit for the job.
That's what I think whenever I look at user reviews at sellers sites. I'm 90% more likely to write a bad review if I get a product that fails. People who have things do what they are supposed to are a lot less likely to go write a review if it is something pretty cheap. Thing is if there's only positive reviews I won't trust the site at all. If it's fifty fifty between good and bad reviews it's not a good sign, but it can still be a decent product. If there are 25% bad reviews it makes them look more or less honest, and still most who spent time writing a post had a good experience. I tend to look for the worst reviews and then mentally delete the ones that post about UPS delivering a damaged box or there being a porch pirate that stole the product. Some write these things in the reviews and they doesn't really say anything about the quality of the product. Then there's those that were obviously not using the product for what it was meant to do or who seem to have no idea of how to use it. Finally there's the ones that seem honest and serious. Look for these and try to see if there are any problem that repeats a lot. So while user reviews can be a good thing it's not as easy as just reading them and believe everything.
100% agree. Especially on tools that are so easy to misuse with catastrophic results. I’ve seen how people use tools when they don’t know what they’re doing… and some portion of them are going to leave reviews 😂
After watching this video the quality of the presentation had me believing this channel was another big tool review channel. I was pleasantly surprised to see this is your first video and I can't wait to see more! Keep it up man!
@rubricpit7786 Woah! I had not noticed this was his first video until you pointed it out. Thank you for that btw. Totally agree on the quality. @ShopHumor In all honesty when you started speaking I initially thought I was watching a Inheritance Machining side channel - there's some resemblence. This was a damn good first showing, mate. On point (drill bits, point hehe....anyhoo), no useless blahblah preamble - just facts, a handy size chart (thank you for that) and a calm quiet voice with none of that loud 'HEY!! LISTEN TO ME!!' nonsense I've seen too much of. Soooo refreshing. Got yourself another subscriber 👍
I have a the same set, I’ve used it for AL and wood and plastic mostly. I’ve used it only occasionally for steel, usually using other bits mostly because I don’t want to break one of these and then have to chase replacements. I lost a rivet on a hinge which I replaced with a 4-40. I think this set epitomizes the mantra that any Harbor freight tool is better than the tool you do not have. So this gives you the chance to have what you need, and if you break it or dull it, then replace that bit with a quality one and build up you quality a little at the time.
@@ShopHumor just got to be ware of melting and it snagging. Slower speed and tap it in and out to avoid binding. Also, make sure to clamp work down well, or it can snag onto you drill and then you have spinning parts!
I bought a bunch of these sets back when they were on clearance under the Drillmaster name with the thought that they would likely fail over time and I'd just keep opening a new set as needed. I'm still on the first set. I've broken a few of the smallest sizes and I replaced those with better bits but the set as a whole has been far better than expected.
That's crazy! How many sets do you think you bought? I don't know if I'll ever have to drill a hole as small as 0.040 but if I do, I'll probably break it.
@@ShopHumor I had at least a dozen sets, most are still new in the box. It was around the time that they were dropping the Drill Master brand and moving toward the Warrior brand. The case then was a bit larger and heavier gauge steel, but the bits were likely the same. I actually bought a bunch of other sets too, including a dozen or so of the gold 60pc HSS fractional sets, a few smaller sets, and the full size sets. They had them marked down to $2.99 and $3.99 a set, with the smaller number only and letter only sets being $1.99. They were in the scratch and dent isle and they had stacks of them. I also bought a bunch of the gold crinkle wire wheels that were marked down for a $1 each, I got about 10 or so of them. A week later I bought two 20 gal. air compressors they were dumping the same way. I actually bought them figuring they'd be good only for wood and to keep around the house but they turned out to be far better than I had expected. I had cheap drills in the past that were total crap but these are probably close to anything you would buy from Black and Decker, Dewalt, or Craftsman at that time. They aren't on par with Hanson or Greenlee but are likely equal to or close to Vermont in durability. They're also cheap enough where it don't hurt much if you break one. I did have a few bend, but it was only one of two sizes in the gold variety, all the others were fine. (The bit got stuck, and when I reversed the drill to back it out, it sort of unwound the drill as if it were soft. It didn't break, it twisted in reverse. I grabbed another one from a second set and it was fine. I threw on of those sets under the seat of my truck, and have one on my desk just in case. I also bought five of the Warrior 18v Li Ion drills when they first came out with the $9.99 coupon years ago, they've been great for around the office and house jobs. I even keep on on the boat to wind reels with. The thought is if the salt air kills it, I'm not out much, but its been there for 8 year or so now with no issues. No Dewalt ever lasted that long for that task, let alone on the same battery.
@@colindgrant The 60pc and two of the larger sets are TiN coated, the smaller number drills are black but seem just as tough. I have my doubts as to whether or not the TiN coating is real or just a plating as it wears off fairly quick compared to other coated drills but they're hard enough to hold an edge and to have survived so many years of use. The cobalt bits are harder and do chip, but so do the more expensive cobalt bits. I tend to reserve the cobalt bits for use on cast iron and broken bolt removal but 90% of the time I grab the regular 60pc set.
Nice review! About five years ago, I bought a cheap impact drill and masonry bits from Harbor Freight to redo all of the plumbing in a concrete pumphouse at a trailer park my parents owned. I had some doubt that they would last long enough to complete the job which entailed drilling a few hundred holes in the walls and floor for piping straps and other fixtures. Five years later, I am still using the same drill and bits and can't seem to wear them out. It was a real surprise and a good purchase.
Great review! A lot of people were taught drilling metal the wrong way, making drill bits go dull or tips burn quickly or drills bresk, and leaving ugly holes. Me too until some years ago. A steady hand and a puncture, or drill press, the right RPM range and downward pressure for the material, sufficient torque and applying drill lubricant all make a big difference. What I was taught long time ago but what you really should not do with cobalt drill bits is when a wider hole is required, like ½ inch, drill a small hole first, than redrill with ever increasing drill sizes, it will damage the tips. For this, simply drill with ½ cobalt drill right from the start.
I've always heard the same thing as you. With that 7/16ths drill I used on the steel in the video it really did just go through like it was nothing. The trick is like you said -- the right plunge rate (pressure), RPM, and lubricant will make all the difference.
You can pilot drill a hole to clear the center of the large bit, just don't step up in small increments. That will wear out the edges and risk catching on breakthrough.
I got the Warrior 29 piece fractional set on a deal ~$12 just to keep in my tool bag. They work great! They are ground all over, including the flutes which a lot of cheaper drill bits are not. I think these are a fair deal for the price and will serve most people fine if not abused. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment! Glad yours are working out for you. I've got half a mind to go get another set of Warriors (not the cobalt ones, the regular), just to keep around for extras for my hand tools.
I think it's pretty hit and miss. Sometimes you find a real gem there with an incredible wealth of information.. and other times, well, not. Thanks for the comment!
From my experience, 80% of the time they provide good information. Even then, reddit is such a better search engine than google that it's popular advice to just put "reddit" at the end of your google search just to get the specific results you want
metalworking reddit page is hit or miss. Its people asking dumb questions like how to fix a scratch on stainless fridge. So someone says sand it. And then they say I used 36 grit in a circle motion and it looks bad.
I have this exact set. I got it years ago (~10) for less money. I only use it like a ream set. I drill with a more common drill bit first and use these to get the final size. I too have found them all to be 1 thou too small. My case has the same exact defects as yours. I find these drill bits too springy for hand drilling but are fine for a drill press. I have not broken one yet, and I take way more care with them then they are worth. This set is more useful then a metric set.
I'm glad to hear that you've gotten so many years out of them and they're still working for you! I can't believe that the case still has the same defects that it had 10 years ago though. That's wild.
I've had a couple sets of these at home and my shop. I lose them more often than breakage so that's a benefit for low cost. If they DO get a bit dull after awhile, a quick zap on the bench grinder and they are ready for a few dozen more uses. Some of mine are getting a bit shorter than they should be, but way better than buying new.
Nice to see a new channel in this space with good unique style and high production quality (audio is highly important). Nicely done, keep up the good work. Subscribed!
I've got a set of Harbor Freight drill bits I bought close to 40 years ago. This was still before local stores when you would fill out a paper order from a paper catalog and drop it in the mailbox with a check, then wait a month to get your order in a soggy brown cardboard box. I still have that drill index and even some of the original bits in sizes that I don't use often.
Me too- catalog order "Huot" 30pc black oxide 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths ~30 years ago. My drill index/Case is pretty sturdy. Best $15 I ever spent. NP wood, aluminum and occasional iron & steel.
Crazy how HFs marketing team knows. More often than not when I need something they've got it on mark down. They didn't have the 115 PC set available when I got my cobalt set, but I did grab that 21pc Bosch set on sale for 45$ it's totally serviceable, had it for 3 years now and snapped and replaced 2 of the 21. Definitely a recommend on that set too. Like you mentioned most poor reviews are from people who don't know how to use their tools, great video! Got a sub from me 🤙😎
What many people don't understand is the two most common grades of cobalt drill bits are M35 and M42, which contain 5% and 8% cobalt respectively but the more cobalt the more brittle the bit is. So if you are drilling cast iron or harder grades of steel and you go caveman pressure that deflects the bit it will snap immediately, it's just the nature of the beast. Slow and steady wins the race.
Adding onto that - if you’re using these with a hand drill, eventually the material and the drill will catch up you will get deflection and they will snap. If you don’t have a drill press or other machining tool then you really don’t need these nor will you really get much out of them. You’d be better off with a different type of drill for whatever you’re doing. You should also be aware that these are like many other HF tools. By that I mean you’ll probably have to clean up the tip on most of them which is fine for the bigger sizes but a pain in the ass and not worth it for the smaller ones.
@@TadpoleTrainer does a magbase drill count as a ‘drill press’? I’ve been raring to get me one on the off chance I need such a thing, but the price point is kinda putting me off. I do have a drill press and a tabletop mini mill.
@@ronsimmaculatedetailing6335 whatever gets the job done 😂 if the bit is sharp and harder than the fastener, it will cut through it at some rate. If I can’t weld a nut on and get it off like that then I usually just use a regular HSS bit. If one of these cobalt bits breaks off in the bolt I really don’t want to figure out how I’m getting that out too
Some people think cobalt means indestructible. But a Milwaukee one drilling cast iron and braking? Priceless. I almost picked up the same set the last time they had a clearance sale. Still kicking myself... Great video! Thanks!
I'm amazed at your results. Thanks for taking so much time in your tests. I have purchased a couple of smaller kits and the one thing I noticed was bits under about 5/16 were sometimes bent. I could see them wobble in the drill press even before they touched anything.
Years ago I bought the 115 M2 black oxide set off Harbor Freight for the princely sum of $29.95. For the price I really can't complain. I drill mild steel with it. I wouldn't try to drill anything harder than that. They don't stay sharp for very long but I know how to sharpen bits. Over the years I've been replacing bits in the set with different bits as I come across them. The set in this video looks nice to me.
I got this same set because I needed some of the more obscure sizes for knife making/modding and I’ve not had any issues with them in various materials. Thanks for the video.
I've used both the Warrior and the Milwaukee set for the last year or so. About 45/45/10% on a Bridgeport a lathe and a hand drill. Ironically the #7 has been sitting in my tap index about since I bought the Warrior set. And that has been mostly used on a hand drill. I did snap one Milwaukee bit though drilling through (roughly) 38mm 316 plate. The rest have held up fine. Keep em lubed and take your time with your feed rates and they are just fine.
5 years ago I bought the HF 13 bit hex drive cobalt drill set and they have been unbelievably good. For most projects I don't need to get the big drill index out. They are tough. Good report. Thanks SH.
These are on sale now for $50! Just got a hand-me-down drill press. Going to buy this set tomorrow purely off your review. Thank you for taking the time to produce a no-nonsense video!
I agree with you. Some of the negative reviews were all about the operator using the drill bit. I've ruined/broken several drill bits while drilling by hand (no cutting fluid, hot holding the drill motor steady, and my fav...bearing down on the drill motor like the hulk because I just wanna get the hole drilled and be done with it). You've convinced me that this particular Harbor Freight tool product is a worthwhile investment. Thanks!
A little input from a machinist. I use cobalt drills specifically on stainless. If you want to test these drills, carefully hand drilling some sheet stainless is the test. To convert to and from metric the magic number is 25.4. A #7 drill is .201"... .201" X 25.4 = 5.1054mm ... 5.1054 / 25.4 = .201" ... This is faster for me than a conversion table. Good video! I'm planning on buying a set of these for my home shop!
Thanks man. I really appreciate the thoughts about stainless. I’m going to have to give that a go. Most of the stuff I work with around my garage-based workshop is mild steel, aluminum and brass so that’s what I went with but stainless would be a really good test too. Your conversion trick is solid.
The magic is to have a drill guide chart that has all the numbers, letters and fractional sizes with their decimal equivalents and metric values. If you can figure out how to access my Google docs there's a nice one to print out there. The best you're going to find on the Internet. It's the Rosetta stone.
@@ShopHumor For softer material in a home-shop, HSS isn't just as good, it's better than cobalt. It's less hard, which means less brittle. HSS is more forgiving, less likely to chip, and easier to sharpen. Save money, buy a cheaper set, and buy a drill-doctor (ish) sharpening rig. Always have sharp bits. Shops use cobalt because it's all about the lifecycle metrics... how many holes in a give material before replacing the not quite dull bit before it breaks. Time is money and if a dialed-in machine can push a harder bit through faster for longer, it's worth the cost. That isn't how home-shops typically work. In my shop, the only time I've ever used a bit from sharp to dull is when I've used the wrong bit. Most every time, I drill the few holes i need, look at the bit when I take it out, and if it shows any wear I take the 30 seconds to sharpen it before I put it away for the next time. It's always sharp when I start. Now, if I start drilling a hole and the bit falls on its proverbial face, usually in under 13 seconds, that's when the cobalt bits come out, after I re-sharpen the bit I just wrecked. And, then I'm careful because the chunk of mysterium metal I started with is obviously a lot harder than I thought. Then it's all: watch for chatter, don't let the material work-harden, etc., etc..
I've had one of these sets (version before the cobalt) since 2006 and have never broken one. I use a mill and a lathe with them. I've misplaced a couple probably owing to magnets and magnetic tools snatching them up, or getting lost in a swarf purge. As with any drill watch the speeds and feeds and use a coolant/lubricant whenever possible.
FYI you should be using a spot drill not a center drill. A center drill is for using lathe centers. A spot drill has a wider angle (usually 140°) than your drill so the point touches first and helps keep it centered
@@ShopHumor Guhring 9005460060000 Keo 103-034144 Emuge EFUT3300.0635 Harvey Tool 737816 They come in all sorts of sizes, 1/8" 1/4" 6mm 8mm 10mm 12mm. Picking one sometimes depends on if you want an edge break on the drilled hole or not. The design of newer drills have a 140 degree drill point and are "self centering." The "correct" spot drill has a 142 degree angle. This way the center of the drill point will make contact first and align itself with the spot. The way you were doing it should work for a manual lathe and mill, but will beat up the corners of the drill. It worked for 50 years, so it would be fine for what you are doing. In large quantity runs, I'd say get a 142 degree. Over 8x diameter you want to pilot drill (1.5x to 5x diameter pilot). All this depends on the alignment of machine as well. Your lathe drill chuck looks off center. The drill moves on the way out of the part and moves back on the way in.
I've learned over the years that you do not force a tool you must let it do its job or fails thanks for showing the tool doing its job without being forced
Great review! I am using two of these sets and running them hard with heavy machines most often holding with collets increasing performance in a variety of alloys. Most often I do not use this type of bit in hand drills unless its the last resort, always starting with economy HF bits. Some bits I use like #3, #7, Q for example I will order 10 at a time from an industrial dealer. A Huot drill index and some early import indexes are worth the cost in the long run.
Yeah I agree completely. For anything you're using on a regular basis or for production runs, just get a stockpile of decent quality so you'll never run out. And for hand drills I always use my cheaper bits too.
@@ShopHumor A machining book from the early 1900s said the drill bit is the hardest working and most abused tool in the shop. Some things don't change.
A craftsman never blames his tools. Maybe that's because he has good tools? Or maybe it's just because he knows how to work with what he has? I don't know.
I bought this same set and have been loving it but I don't drill out much metal. I mostly use them for thin sheet metal, plastics and wood and having the ability to drill those in a plethora of different sizes was worth the purchase for me and I figured if I break any I would replace it with a "better quality" one. Nice to know if I want to drill steel I can though. Great video!
It is fascinating how complicated freedom drill sizes is. Here in metric world the standard drill set has 0.5 mm to 16 mm in 0.5 mm steps. They might skip some of the larger sizes to make it a set of maybe 20-30 drills instead of ridiculous 115.
This is not a standard set for the US. This is the set you need to make all the holes for things like starting thread cutting operations. Normally you are looking at 29 sizes in a US set. The step sizes are a load of wank though.
I have a set. I bought them for the variety and the index. I use the standard bits alot since they're easier to replace, and only use the rest when absolutely needed. I've had them for several months now and use them frequently. So far not a single complaint and can't even remember having to sharpen one. I would definitely buy again.
I actually purchased that miserable Bosch 14 piece set from menards for work since I foolishly believed they were going to be OK quality. I wasn't expecting viking quality, but at least a step up from the cheap bits. Nope, I got 2 holes out of the 1/4" bit drilling through 1/2" drywall and a metal stud. The 3rd hole, I couldn't drill through the metal stud, which is basically sheet metal. Just some of the worst bits I've ever used, and I was disgusted since I've had decent luck with bosch tools before but hadn't bought any of their consumables. LIght maintenance work and after 1 year all but 3 of the bits have been pitched. I know how to sharpen bits, but we don't have a grinder at work and they aren't good enough quality to bother anyway. They're honestly about the same quality as those super cheap 'TiN' coated bits you see in those $4.99 bins at hardware stores. I've actually had better luck with that harbor freight set, although part of the reason is that I reserve those bits for when I need a particular size (tapping and lathe work mostly). They've been very true to size and perform well, the only ones I've had issues with are the super tiny number bits, which like any small bit will break if you even look at them funny. Probably the main issue there is that I can't spin them up fast enough in either the lathe or drill press, but that isn't the fault of the drills.
That’s really disheartening to hear how negative your experience has been with that Bosch set. Not good when they’re on par with the bargain bin TiN coated bits but for a lot more money.
I have a Harbor Freight drill index similar to this I bought 30 + years ago. Probably just HSS. I mostly work with wood, but I do drill aluminum, brass, and some steel. I’m a guitar maker. The set is still going strong, except for some of the small wire gauge bits I broke or lost. I use them in a drill press and hand drill.
Be cautious using cobalt bits in soft materials! Cobalt bits are very hard, and prone to shattering. Specifically small diameter should only be used for stationary drill press work. Any misalignment or "grab/bind" will cause shattering of the bit.
I've had pretty good luck with using them in soft materials, including Delrin, but I always use them in rigid machinery like the lathe or the mill. I wouldn't ever use them in a hand tool like that.
Great production quality. Thanks for the Video. I have a set of the cheapest HF set, and they run fine. Just keep them out of a hand drill. Earned yourself another subscriber.
it ain't the lube, it's the rpm's..........and feed rate.....so many have no idea how to set up a drill press.... no matter how many times I tell the morons I have to work with, they still cant get it right........ cheers.....Paul
Feeds and Speeds, one of the first things we learned in Machining 101. Many people, myself included, haven't thought about what feed rate you are trying to force when you put your full weight against a hand drill.
Those reviews are like the ones that use 1/4 in impact to remove lug nits on a car or complain a cordless ratchet doesn't have enough torque to remove set bolts. They just don't know how to use tools or are using the wrong tool for the job.
Yep. I’m always so skeptical of negative tool reviews after having seen how people treat their tools. Especially when they’re trying to make a tool do a job that it wasn’t designed for, and then they cry about it when they mess it up.
@@ShopHumor Probably going on 10 years. Almost every single bit has wear on it. Most , if not all, of the common sized have been resharpened (by me) multiple times. In that time I have lost or broken only a couple of the very small bits and broken one of the large bits (I forget which one). I originally purchased the set because I needed to drill out 8x 3/16ths grade 5 bolts that were seized. the 1/2 bit made short work of those and was still sharp after. Keep em cool and they will last you a decade.
Lol yeah. I was waiting for someone to point that out. One of those things I caught on my first watch after hitting upload to UA-cam, but somehow missed during the several hours of editing that it took to put together. Good eye and thanks for the correction!!
@@ShopHumor great review thanks 👍 I’ve been buying dewalt black and gold bits on sale at Christmas time For average use mostly on mild steel but have had good success with them
Thanks! The guy at Project Farm had really good things to say about those black Dewalts in his video a few years ago. They really outperformed some more expensive sets.
*@navaho5430* He wrote 5 thou instead of 50 but you added a decimal to a decimal. He missed his error after spending hours editing his video down to nine minutes. How long did it take you to write your comment?
@@paulweston8184 I agree, but in the machinist world .001 is considered just 1 quite commonly. So should be .4995 to most people but 499.5 is common amongst precision machinists.
I have the same set and use them in a hand-held drill had them for a year +. I've only broke 2 ( I totally knew I was going to break them), but the thickest metal I've drilled was 1/8 inch fine for what I need
While I don’t have a particular interest in, or need for, a box of 100+ drill bits, UA-cam recommended this video so I watched. I do like DYI content, so perhaps that’s why. I really appreciate your dry humor narration style, while still delivering useful information. I’m now subscribed and looking forward to viewing some additional content. Hope it helps you too.
A lot of comments on the "knowing how to drill a hole" thing. They're not wrong. I'm an engineer working in a manufacturing/processing environment. As such I have learned that maintenance folks can destroy any tool or tooling, along with machinery and equipment. Any harder type bit will fracture if shock loaded, side loaded or overheated, so we took those away. We happened upon cryogenically treated HSS. They're the toughest bits I have ever used. They hold an edge and cut similar to cobalt/carbide, yet were more tolerant of misuse/abuse. While not indestructible, they're truly a great general purpose bit, albeit a bit pricey.
I don't know what those guys are bitching about, but I have that same set of cobalt drill bits and they all work just fine. Those others either don't know how to use those drills or are too rough on them. Some push too hard on drill bits in steel or use the wrong size and the wrong speed. I'm in Canada and we don't have HF. Our equivalent would be Princess Auto...basically the same kind of store.
I’ve never had the pleasure of shopping at a Princess Auto but next time I’m in Canada I’ll give it a look. You’re right that 99% of peoples problems with drills is using them incorrectly - wrong speed, wrong size, wrong pressure.
I bought a similar set from a different tool house. It gave me a good selection of seldom used drills. I have had mixed results. A handful of the number drills were not straight, a couple split up the web. I use a lot of the drills for #4,6,8,10 pilot holes for taps, and the clearance holes. Most of those are now replaced, and just happened to be where I found the bent drills fresh from the box.
I've only done a few spot checks on maybe two dozen of the 115 pieces and mine have been straight and sharp so far, but I think I ought to get each one out and see if there are any duds.
I bought this set probably 10 years ago and have used them a ton on lathe, mill and drill press, nothing wrong with them. It's the only good drill bit set they have. As you said the case is not great but I don't close it anyway since it sits in top of my tooling cart. I did snap the 3/8 and 1/2 using an old heavy duty Makita 1/2 corded hand drill. That old drill will wind you up so I can't blame the bits, my fault for not stepping up hole size in smaller increments. I've re-sharpened many of the common sizes numerous times and of course broke some of the small bits. Will be buying a new set next year to finally replace it. 10 years and lots of use ,I'll gladly spend another ~$100 for a fresh set.
I got a couple that were just bent out of the index and lots of the others were somewhat dull. But overall I’m happy with the purchase because I can discover which sizes I really need and replace them with quality drills over time.
I’m sorry you got some that were bent. I think you’re right that having the index on hand, along with extras of the bits you use most frequently, is the best way to do it.
I've had the HF Cobalt set for many years. Assuming the current set is of the same quality as my old set, and that's never a certainty, I'm a big fan. They cut well and maintain an edge well. Cobalt drills are more brittle than ordinary HSS drills so some care is required. And they must be kept sharp over time as is true for all drills. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. You're right about maintaining and sharpening your drills (and other cutting tools, too!) - makes all the difference.
I picked up the smaller set of cobalt bits from HF while l was still drilling stainless and other alloys all day upfitting emergency vehicles, and they held up wonderfully after some initial tuning and sharpening on the ones that needed a bit of a tweak. Their spiral cobalt step bits are still some of the nicest I've ever used, and performed better than their pricetag ever would have indicated. Knowing how to use a drill was a factor tho, and l didn't loan them out to coworkers since l knew it would be a one way trip the way they baked all their bits
Yep, as soon as you loan them out you'll start getting them back in pieces. A lot of people -- not everyone, mind you -- but a lot of people just don't seem to care too much about tools unless they're the ones paying for them (if they even knew how to use them properly in the first place).
I bought this set a month or so ago but have not used it yet. I did have a 13 bit cobalt set from Milwaukee that I used, and abused, for work. It lasted many years of occasional use. I broke a couple of bits recently and got another similar set, we will see how that lasts. Great info, subscribed!
I bought the milwaukee cobalt set with double cutting heads. Almost exclusively run in a hand drill through 1/4 inch to 1/2 steel. Have yet to break or dull any of them in almost 2 years. I am a fan to be sure
I really like your video style. I didn't need the review as I've got a nice "3 way" drill set already. But watched it and was quickly captivated by the style of video. I'm looking forward to catching up on some of your other videos.
I've had my HF Cobalt bit set for over 10 years and still haven't ever broken one and they're all still cutting/drilling fine. But they're also just for DIY home stuff. I orignally bought them to drill out 4 broken CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS on a GM 4.2L I6. They drilled through those cylinder head bolts LIKE THEY WERE MADE OF ALUMINUM.
Great video, no distracting noise or "music", subscribed. I've been a fabricator for three decades and want a set, a good one, but big dollars aren't in the budget. I made a quarter to a third of my salary this far dealing with broken bolts, stripped threads and the like, so I like to think I know about drill bits, taps and dies. Maybe I'll buy this set and just not let anyone else touch it, seems like fair for the money. Harbor freight quality scares the crap out of me with drills and taps, did you review their taps? I already trust your opinion seeing this video alone.
Thank you so much for the compliment, for watching, and taking the time to leave a thoughtful comment. I really appreciate it! I haven't reviewed their taps but I have a set of 50 year old craftsman taps and a set of HF taps. I like using the Craftsman more but I have NOT done a thorough evaluation. My Craftsman set is all SAE and the Harbor Freight set has metric which is why I got it in the first place.
I have a higher end Bosch drill set, and misplaced it in my bedroom, so I picked up this HF set. I've used it with my Hitachi HPT 1/2" 18V Hammer drill with wood, to modify a Cat pressure washer pump I was trying to removed from a rusted Honda drive shaft, and to drill out some rusted and snapped off bolts on said pump crank case, and have had no issues at all. For the money, and because I've needed some really esoteric drill sizes and this set met the task, it has been well worth the purchase with a discount code, military discount, etc, getting them for next to nothing at final bill.
Speeds and feeds, thats where the performance lays, that and cutting oil to keep temperatures down so you dont roast the drills cutting edges, especially important when drilling stainless steel which has a habit of work hardening. Well presented, and informative! Thanks for the review on the drill set.....
I bought a set that looks identical to those at a flea market about 30 years ago, and it's actually held up pretty well. A few of the drills I use the most such as #7, 1/4", #21, 5/16", 3/8" eventually got chipped or worn out after drilling hundreds of holes, and I'd buy good individual replacements for those. I mostly use them in a drill press with cutting oil. I think a lot of people ruin drills because they don't know what they're doing. They'll drill through stainless steel with no cutting oil, and then not press hard enough. All that does is cook the cutting edge and ruin it. It's always important to push hard enough that you're getting a curl started. If you don't get a curl, you're not pushing hard enough. If you're using a hand drill, start off with a 1/8" pilot drill before stepping up to a larger bit. Split point stubby cobalt drills work great to make a pilot hole in steel or stainless steel, but they're brittle, so don't do any jerky side to side motions or you might snap them in half.
I've used a variety of harbor freight drill sets like this over the years their great general purpose shop bits and it doesn't hurt as much when someone decides to abuse them and break them we have sets of last three years in general use they're used to drill essentially anything that you would drill with a drill bit metals plastic steel tool steel I think they're a little harder than a lot of drill bits and actually will drill a harder material better than a more expensive drill any case they're a great value for the money even if they are at the world's greatest drill bit
Yep I think the value is just really good. At 65 cents each, it’s hard to compete. I’m just a hobbyist so I don’t do a ton of super hard materials but these cut through mild steel with zero issues. For my needs they’re just fine.
Hey, thank you very much! I might go over the CNC conversion if there is any interest in that in a future video, or at least hit the highlights of the components and enclosure.
I have 2 sets of HF cobalt drills. The first is nearly 30 years old (back when HF was mail-order!) and has been heavily used over the years as the go-to bits for a woodworking DIY guy, with the occasional soft metal or 1/8" steel. Sure a few broke over the years and a few of the most-used drills have gotten a bit dull and needed to be sharpened. BUT, for what I paid for them, I am thrilled. I bought another set a couple years ago, with a good coupon. They are still new!
I haven't tried this large set from HFT, but I did buy their 1/16"-1/2" cobalt set a while back and it's been great. I use them in my machine shop regularly for materials that want a little extra that HSS can't deliver, like on stainless. So far none have broken, and none have dulled.
That’s really cool. I’ve seen a few people mention that they use them on stainless with good results! Very encouraging, thank you for letting me know your experience. The next project I’m working on is an easy one in 6061 aluminum but maybe the one after that I’ll have to get some stainless…
Used HF M35 drills almost exclusively for years. The only breakage was my fault. The only dulling was actually micro chipping caused by drilling hardened steel. They are a little brittle, which is a worthwhile tradeoff for having a good hard bit that stays sharp.
I've had my set for years and it has done nothing but impress. One of the first projects I used them for was drilling 400 1/4" holes in 1/4" inch thick angle iron. I figured I would at least have to introduce that bit to the Drill Doctor a couple times. But no, drilled the 400th hole as smoothly as it drilled the first, No Sharpening! From that day on I've been singing it's praise's.
I bought this set 5 or 6 years ago and only ever broke the smallest of the drills when doing dumb stuff. I love them and will buy them again. I use them weekly in my shop for various tasks. We even used them to open up the center hole on some jeep leaf springs with no issue.
I bought a set of these about 10 years ago. I still have them and use them fairly regularly. I've had to sharpen a few of them a couple times, but other than that, they've been good for my little hobby shop. Back then they were only around $50. The strangest part about my set is that the drill numbers 23-30 started rusting badly. The rest are fine.... it's weird. Great video. Nice editing. Hope to see more. New sub.
Harry homeowner here and I've owned that set for almost 20 years. I have broken about a dozen on them but it's still my GoTo set of drill bits for random projects. There's enough different steps of sizes that even if a bit is broken there are 3-4 more in there I can probably get away with. Result, I always have a drill bit handy. Now if I were a 'professional' would I use these everyday, hell no, but for some random hole I need to drill around the house they are awesome.
Yep, different products for different needs. And if they get the job YOU need them to get done, what's there to complain about? Well... maybe the crappy case lol
I got a smaller set that work fine but it really just made me realize that you need to buy a bunch of the same size for every specific project no matter how cheap or expensive your drill bits are. You gotta buy a bunch for each project one will almost never be enough
nice job I should have realized on my own about cobalt bits not being good for hand operated tools after messing up so many, but this video has convinced me to leave them right by the drill press...
I have 3 sets of these and love them. One set in the service truck, one in the shop toolbox and one permanently parked next to the mill. Can't go wrong for the money.
Thank you !!! I thought I was alone on how expensive drill bits are, and I'm big believer not cheaping out on tools. Once looking in a lot of review from reddit, UA-cam and Amazon. I came to the cobalt drill bit set from harbor freight they are good, and I'm happy with the buy. I definitely recommend using them on a drill Press makes it safer for your drill bits not to breaking. I also tried there $30 115pc titanium set and I'm also happy with the buy. Reason I also bought the cheaper set cause I wanted to use the cheaper set. Im sort of still a beginner on metal work and learning how take care of my tools. Also, sharpening bits are little tricky so Hense the practice cheap set. You just can't beat harbor freight deals.
This set of drills is good. Not great but also not bad. My set is probably 17 years old and I still have almost all of the original drills. They're my backups to better drills up to 3/8". My oldest drill index dates back to 1972 and most if not all are not the original drills; having been replaced as necessary. I use the HF numbered drills and those over 3/8" frequently. Very few have been replaced. They are rarely used in a hand drill; more likely to be used in a drill press, milling machine or lathe. I'm an amateur machinist and do machine work several days every week. I only use a hand drill when I can't use machinery. The holes are not perfectly sized nor are they perfectly round but that is not the exclusive domain of cheap drills. Name brand drills from the home improvement and hardware stores are also capable of out of round or off sized holes. The index, as you said, is pretty crappy but it does serve to help me make sure I put everything back where it belongs. After all of that, I no longer buy HF drills. I've bought several specialty sets that weren't straight, had bad heat treating (would bend without breaking) and in general found that none of the other HF drills that I have purchased were as good as this set. My work is generally precision work as a volunteer on a battleship restoration and I can't be messing up expensive raw materials due to poor tooling.
Thank you for the comment and letting me know about your experiences. You mentioned getting out to your shop several days a week - what projects do you usually work on?
drilling holes with a cordless hand drill i always start with a 9/64 cobalt drill bit because i buy packs of 10 on amazon cheap. from that starter hole it depends what the finish hole is . up to 3/8 i just drill the final hole over that i go with 1/4 or so then the final drill. i like the hex shank bits for a hand drill as they don't slip. with this method i can drill through 1 inch thick steel or more pretty quick. like 5 minutes a hole. use cutting oil as well or you will burn out the bits. on the larger holes use low speed
Bought the Drill master version of this set 10 years ago. The idea was replace the common used bits as needed but still have the odd sizes whiteout breaking the budget. It’s been great for light shop use. Replaced a few and had some broken by the shop help that don’t know how to use a drill but overall it’s been a good buy. I just wish the index case wasn’t garbage
I've bought HFT drills in the full set of letter, number, and fractions, as well as the fraction set, and a number set. All are fine for working Aluminum, wood, PCB, copper and thin steel, For working steel USE Cutting Oil and proper speed. They probably won't last as long as name brand drills, but for hobby / home shop use are worth the price.
I had actually seen a Project Farm video here earlier in the year where he tested some cobalts of various brands and they held up fairly well. Not the best, but they certainly weren't the worst, either.
I'm a locksmith and I actually found the best harbor Freight drill bits that they sell were recently discontinued. They were on clearance so I bought every set that they had. I drill out locks all the time. Sometimes hardened steel locks with ball bearings in there just to resist drilling. Years ago I was out on a job and I accidentally left my drill bits at the previous job. So I searched through my toolbox and found a blue box of left hand drill bits from harbor Freight. They were the sharpest high-speed steel drill bits I've ever used. They are right up there with my Norseman set. As long as you don't burn them up they last a very very long time. They come in a nice blue metal container that snaps closed very well. Not a plastic recycled sewer pipe case that breaks in a week. If there are any left at your harbor Freight, you should buy a few sets. I bought them to remove broken fasteners but now they are my go-to for portable lock drilling.
Thanks for the tip! I imagine you drill more holes in a month than most folks will in their entire life, given your occupation. Valuable insight, thank you :)
Thanks. FYI, McMaster sells all the individual sizes in high quality bits. I use those to replace broken and/or special sizes. That Harbor Freight is probably a really good deal - just replace the common sizes as they get broken. And have a good sharpener for the large bits.
Thank you! I'll be stockpiling extras of my most commonly used sizes. I order from McMaster-Carr relatively frequently (their website is second to none IMO).
Great video, this makes a good case for cheap cutting tools. You're absolutely correct in that it takes skill to use tools properly and that using them in rigid machinery helps a lot. Even the best sets out there wouldn't hold up to an idiot using them. We run a small production shop, i mostly do the electronics and i code as well, but most importantly, I run the place as the owner. I have one guy doing general assembly for sheet metal enclosures etc so he does a lot of drilling and tapping with relatively small sizes (M2, M3, occasionally M5). He breaks maybe 1 tap a year or every other year. We had an intern working with him this summer and that guy broke 6 taps in one day. When asked how, the guy said he didn't know, that he just went at it with a cordless drill and it just happened. Our guy does tapping in a drill press using proper cutting oil.
*Update:* I replaced the crappy case with this one from Huot: amzn.to/483qUP3
Initial impressions are it’s a *HUGE upgrade* and am gonna take a closer look for an upcoming video.
I also replaced the crappy case with a round one with screw on cap!! right on!!
@@TMFS4659 Thats cool!! What kind did you end up getting?
The one benefit of buying a cheap set like that, is that you have all the sizes you use rarely, and the sizes that you use often, can be swapped out for better quality bits as they fail.
This is the way
Exactly correct. I plan to stockpile the size I end up using most frequently, and keep the index on hand for the oddball sizes and one-offs that come up when repairing some random gadget or part around the house and workshop.
That is too true. Plus you can buy really nice brands to replace those you do break and eventually you'll have the brand name set.
Exactly.
Or you just buy the good set once so you don't spend all your time shopping for replacement bits 😂
No intro, no background music, no reviewing the history of the universe before getting to the point - subscribed :-) !!!
Thanks man! I was worried I was rambling too much before I got to cutting metal but I thought it was worth explaining why I picked this set over the others I had looked at. Thanks for the sub!!
@@ShopHumor On topic material is, how should I say this... on topic?!? Looking forward to more, thanks for sharing!
You’re welcome and thanks again :)
Lol
@@ShopHumor As long as your videography skills were brought up, the sound effects are not needed and can become annoying for some people.
I've had the same set for a long time and they have performed well. I loaned it to the guys and work and they ruined one immediately in a hand drill drilling into an I-beam. I took the next size up and finished 22 more holes and it was cutting just fine. These work well but if you don't know how to drill a hole, and most people you meet don't, no drill bit will work.
I think that's the root cause of a lot of the bad reviews. People who don't know how to use a tool are upset when the tool doesn't work right or breaks.
@@ShopHumor Cobalt-alloy drills are more brittle than regular high-speed steel (HSS). That means they stay sharper longer but they will snap more easily with sideloads or shocks and need careful handling. There are two common grades of cobalt drills, M35 and (what the Harbor Freight set claims) M42 which has more cobalt content. I tend to use M35 cobalt for most work in hard materials. Cobalt taps are especially prone to snapping if not handled very carefully. Good-quality cutting compound is a must for tough materials.
You will never use most of the drills in that set but it's pretty to look at. A better bet would be to get packs of specific drill sizes you use a lot and learn how to sharpen drills at home. It's a satisfying skill to acquire.
The ability to shape and sharpening your own cutting tools is definitely an invaluable skill. Since I got my little Grizzly G0602 lathe recently I’ve been working on making my own HSS turning tools from blanks and it’s been fun.
Why would drilling into an I-beam ruin the bit? I-beams are not hardened steel, they're hot-rolled.
100%! ! !
So many people go full speed with a drill bit in a hand drill while bearing down on it and then complain that the bits are useless, dull easily, and break. A little care will get you decent service out of even halfway decent bits.
You did a good job of providing a quality review and I look forward to more!
Hey, thank you! I think you're right -- drilling with care and understanding of proper feeds and speeds goes a long way.
one hole in Alum,, one hole in brass,, and one hole in mild steel with an auto feed and this is what you consider a quality review.. No one here even understands that there are three different sets there and they are NOT Cobalt...
I thought I was a bit tough on drills until a coworker borrowed my drill press (and drills) for a project.
He nearly lifted himself off the floor with the weight he put on the drill's handle while drilling holes.
I've watched people actually get a drill bit glowing from bearing down on it so hard while going full speed with it. Heck, I've been surprised they didn't weld it to the workpiece!
And oil makes a huge difference.
I am the Reddit user who asked for those reviews, lol. I ignored those negative Nancy’s and bought it anyway and I have to say I’ve been really pleased with it. No issues at all hold up fine cut fine. I think it’s a winner.
Hey man, thanks for posting that on Reddit!! I found your post to be helpful and inspirational, haha. Much appreciated. I'm glad the set is working out well for you!
i've had these for a while, got them with a coupon so it was like $80, i've been really happy with them.. largest most comprehensive drill bit set i've ever owned, they've served me well thus far
If you notice the large majority of those telling me what junk they were admittedly didn’t own them, lol. How would they know?
They crap on anything that costs less than they paid for some high end name brand set, to justify the cost of their tools. I see this ALL the time in the firearms industry as well.
@@GlassWolfLHI see it all the time in RC as well, cheap tools from a local hardware shop, that have worked great for me for years, can't possibly be better than the monkey metal tools they have that cost 5x as much and need to be replaced every so often, theirs are better because they're from an rc manufacturer 😂
You don't buy a harbor freight set like this for the quality, you buy it for the variety. A production shop doing ten thousand 1/4in holes a day? Yeah no shit they're gonna invest in the drill with the best longevity, bc time is money. As a hobbiest? You might not drill that many holes ever lol. But having exactly the right size drill in your toolbox that one time a year you need some random sized hole is worth every penny of what a set like this costs.
Exactly right - and just like the production shop, if you want to stockpile a few of your most commonly used sizes, then do it. But it’s so handy to have a complete index at your disposal for whenever you might need an oddball size. Thanks for the comment!
Exactly, time is money. I used to be a foreman, doing construction. We used 1/8, #11, and 7/16, constantly. The company bought them in packages of 10 to 25, depending on size. I had one guy argue with me, he wanted to sharpen a dull 7/16 bit. I said, throw it away, and grab another. He said, but I can just sharpen it. I cut it off square, with a chop saw. I said, there, take it home, and sharpen it! I had to explain it to him, you are paid $30 an hour. It costs the company over $60 an hour, by the time they pay benefits, FICA, comp, etc. If you take 5 minutes, to sharpen that drill, it costs the company $5, plus, it still might not be sharp, and you are losing 5 minutes of production time. It is cheaper to throw the bit away. For home use, go ahead and sharpen, at work, pitch it.
Yeah, I needed a "P" size (8.15mm) to drill out my bicycle rims to convert them from French to Schroeder valves. Cheap drill set full of random bits I've never used to the rescue!
@@j.f.christ8421 Heck yeah. There's really no substitute for having the right tool for the job, on hand. If you like to DIY or tinker or repair odds and ends, you're going to run into that kind of thing from time to time.
I do my own fab work. I buy top of the line bits. Six packs of 1/4, 5/16, 3/8.
I run a machine shop and have been using these for several years. They are good quality and the price is impossible to beat. They are 135deg split point bits and the material they are made of performs well in all materials. I recommend them often!
Thanks for the comment. Guys like you who run machine shops and put tools to the test day in and day out get my attention when you say something is worth a crap. You'll get more time on those machines in a day than I get on them in a year. Much appreciated.
I think alot of people misuse their equipment then blame everyone but themselves when it fails.
I think that tends to happen a lot, too. Don't get me wrong, I've broken my share of drill bits over the years, but it's always been my own dang fault either pushing too hard, not minding my speed, or using the wrong bit for the job.
A poor workman blames his tools.
That's what I think whenever I look at user reviews at sellers sites. I'm 90% more likely to write a bad review if I get a product that fails. People who have things do what they are supposed to are a lot less likely to go write a review if it is something pretty cheap. Thing is if there's only positive reviews I won't trust the site at all. If it's fifty fifty between good and bad reviews it's not a good sign, but it can still be a decent product. If there are 25% bad reviews it makes them look more or less honest, and still most who spent time writing a post had a good experience.
I tend to look for the worst reviews and then mentally delete the ones that post about UPS delivering a damaged box or there being a porch pirate that stole the product. Some write these things in the reviews and they doesn't really say anything about the quality of the product. Then there's those that were obviously not using the product for what it was meant to do or who seem to have no idea of how to use it. Finally there's the ones that seem honest and serious. Look for these and try to see if there are any problem that repeats a lot.
So while user reviews can be a good thing it's not as easy as just reading them and believe everything.
This is exactly why i take reviews with a grain of salt. A lot of user error being confused with bad product.
100% agree. Especially on tools that are so easy to misuse with catastrophic results. I’ve seen how people use tools when they don’t know what they’re doing… and some portion of them are going to leave reviews 😂
After watching this video the quality of the presentation had me believing this channel was another big tool review channel. I was pleasantly surprised to see this is your first video and I can't wait to see more! Keep it up man!
Hey man I really appreciate it. Thank you!
@rubricpit7786 Woah! I had not noticed this was his first video until you pointed it out. Thank you for that btw. Totally agree on the quality.
@ShopHumor In all honesty when you started speaking I initially thought I was watching a Inheritance Machining side channel - there's some resemblence. This was a damn good first showing, mate. On point (drill bits, point hehe....anyhoo), no useless blahblah preamble - just facts, a handy size chart (thank you for that) and a calm quiet voice with none of that loud 'HEY!! LISTEN TO ME!!' nonsense I've seen too much of. Soooo refreshing. Got yourself another subscriber 👍
Totally agree with you. This channel is gonna be a fun one!!
@ShopHumor I'm also on my way to visit Iron and Gold and I'll subscribe there as well!!
I have a the same set, I’ve used it for AL and wood and plastic mostly. I’ve used it only occasionally for steel, usually using other bits mostly because I don’t want to break one of these and then have to chase replacements. I lost a rivet on a hinge which I replaced with a 4-40. I think this set epitomizes the mantra that any Harbor freight tool is better than the tool you do not have. So this gives you the chance to have what you need, and if you break it or dull it, then replace that bit with a quality one and build up you quality a little at the time.
I really like that mantra! How have yours worked in plastic? I’ve never really worked with the material.
I use my black oxide drill bits for wood and soft metals. Cobalt is really for drilling steel.
@@ShopHumor just got to be ware of melting and it snagging. Slower speed and tap it in and out to avoid binding. Also, make sure to clamp work down well, or it can snag onto you drill and then you have spinning parts!
I bought a bunch of these sets back when they were on clearance under the Drillmaster name with the thought that they would likely fail over time and I'd just keep opening a new set as needed. I'm still on the first set. I've broken a few of the smallest sizes and I replaced those with better bits but the set as a whole has been far better than expected.
That's crazy! How many sets do you think you bought? I don't know if I'll ever have to drill a hole as small as 0.040 but if I do, I'll probably break it.
@@ShopHumor I had at least a dozen sets, most are still new in the box. It was around the time that they were dropping the Drill Master brand and moving toward the Warrior brand. The case then was a bit larger and heavier gauge steel, but the bits were likely the same.
I actually bought a bunch of other sets too, including a dozen or so of the gold 60pc HSS fractional sets, a few smaller sets, and the full size sets.
They had them marked down to $2.99 and $3.99 a set, with the smaller number only and letter only sets being $1.99. They were in the scratch and dent isle and they had stacks of them.
I also bought a bunch of the gold crinkle wire wheels that were marked down for a $1 each, I got about 10 or so of them.
A week later I bought two 20 gal. air compressors they were dumping the same way.
I actually bought them figuring they'd be good only for wood and to keep around the house but they turned out to be far better than I had expected.
I had cheap drills in the past that were total crap but these are probably close to anything you would buy from Black and Decker, Dewalt, or Craftsman at that time.
They aren't on par with Hanson or Greenlee but are likely equal to or close to Vermont in durability. They're also cheap enough where it don't hurt much if you break one.
I did have a few bend, but it was only one of two sizes in the gold variety, all the others were fine. (The bit got stuck, and when I reversed the drill to back it out, it sort of unwound the drill as if it were soft. It didn't break, it twisted in reverse. I grabbed another one from a second set and it was fine. I threw on of those sets under the seat of my truck, and have one on my desk just in case.
I also bought five of the Warrior 18v Li Ion drills when they first came out with the $9.99 coupon years ago, they've been great for around the office and house jobs. I even keep on on the boat to wind reels with.
The thought is if the salt air kills it, I'm not out much, but its been there for 8 year or so now with no issues. No Dewalt ever lasted that long for that task, let alone on the same battery.
I've had the identical experience. They have served me for way too many years. I think mine are TiN coated, are yours?
@@colindgrant The 60pc and two of the larger sets are TiN coated, the smaller number drills are black but seem just as tough.
I have my doubts as to whether or not the TiN coating is real or just a plating as it wears off fairly quick compared to other coated drills but they're hard enough to hold an edge and to have survived so many years of use. The cobalt bits are harder and do chip, but so do the more expensive cobalt bits. I tend to reserve the cobalt bits for use on cast iron and broken bolt removal but 90% of the time I grab the regular 60pc set.
Nice review! About five years ago, I bought a cheap impact drill and masonry bits from Harbor Freight to redo all of the plumbing in a concrete pumphouse at a trailer park my parents owned. I had some doubt that they would last long enough to complete the job which entailed drilling a few hundred holes in the walls and floor for piping straps and other fixtures. Five years later, I am still using the same drill and bits and can't seem to wear them out. It was a real surprise and a good purchase.
That's really incredible that you've gotten that much use out of them. What a good value!
Great review! A lot of people were taught drilling metal the wrong way, making drill bits go dull or tips burn quickly or drills bresk, and leaving ugly holes. Me too until some years ago. A steady hand and a puncture, or drill press, the right RPM range and downward pressure for the material, sufficient torque and applying drill lubricant all make a big difference. What I was taught long time ago but what you really should not do with cobalt drill bits is when a wider hole is required, like ½ inch, drill a small hole first, than redrill with ever increasing drill sizes, it will damage the tips. For this, simply drill with ½ cobalt drill right from the start.
I've always heard the same thing as you. With that 7/16ths drill I used on the steel in the video it really did just go through like it was nothing. The trick is like you said -- the right plunge rate (pressure), RPM, and lubricant will make all the difference.
You can pilot drill a hole to clear the center of the large bit, just don't step up in small increments. That will wear out the edges and risk catching on breakthrough.
@@ctrlaltdebug good point, thank you 👍🏻
I got the Warrior 29 piece fractional set on a deal ~$12 just to keep in my tool bag. They work great! They are ground all over, including the flutes which a lot of cheaper drill bits are not. I think these are a fair deal for the price and will serve most people fine if not abused. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment! Glad yours are working out for you. I've got half a mind to go get another set of Warriors (not the cobalt ones, the regular), just to keep around for extras for my hand tools.
Had the same set for a few years, and they still work just fine for me.
For the past 10 years, I have found that Reddit is not the best place to get good advice. It used to be but not anymore
I think it's pretty hit and miss. Sometimes you find a real gem there with an incredible wealth of information.. and other times, well, not. Thanks for the comment!
From my experience, 80% of the time they provide good information. Even then, reddit is such a better search engine than google that it's popular advice to just put "reddit" at the end of your google search just to get the specific results you want
metalworking reddit page is hit or miss. Its people asking dumb questions like how to fix a scratch on stainless fridge. So someone says sand it. And then they say I used 36 grit in a circle motion and it looks bad.
I have this exact set. I got it years ago (~10) for less money. I only use it like a ream set. I drill with a more common drill bit first and use these to get the final size. I too have found them all to be 1 thou too small. My case has the same exact defects as yours. I find these drill bits too springy for hand drilling but are fine for a drill press. I have not broken one yet, and I take way more care with them then they are worth. This set is more useful then a metric set.
I'm glad to hear that you've gotten so many years out of them and they're still working for you! I can't believe that the case still has the same defects that it had 10 years ago though. That's wild.
I've had a couple sets of these at home and my shop. I lose them more often than breakage so that's a benefit for low cost. If they DO get a bit dull after awhile, a quick zap on the bench grinder and they are ready for a few dozen more uses. Some of mine are getting a bit shorter than they should be, but way better than buying new.
Yes sir. And really, every single drill no matter who makes it will need to be sharpened eventually if you use it enough.
Nice to see a new channel in this space with good unique style and high production quality (audio is highly important). Nicely done, keep up the good work. Subscribed!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind remarks. I don’t really know what I’m doing yet so the production quality should only improve.
I've got a set of Harbor Freight drill bits I bought close to 40 years ago. This was still before local stores when you would fill out a paper order from a paper catalog and drop it in the mailbox with a check, then wait a month to get your order in a soggy brown cardboard box. I still have that drill index and even some of the original bits in sizes that I don't use often.
That’s great! Man how times have changed. Everything is on demand, instant gratification, overnight delivery.
Me too!
Me too- catalog order "Huot" 30pc black oxide 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths ~30 years ago. My drill index/Case is pretty sturdy. Best $15 I ever spent. NP wood, aluminum and occasional iron & steel.
Crazy how HFs marketing team knows. More often than not when I need something they've got it on mark down.
They didn't have the 115 PC set available when I got my cobalt set, but I did grab that 21pc Bosch set on sale for 45$ it's totally serviceable, had it for 3 years now and snapped and replaced 2 of the 21. Definitely a recommend on that set too.
Like you mentioned most poor reviews are from people who don't know how to use their tools, great video! Got a sub from me 🤙😎
They really really do know. Thanks for subbing by and the comment. Also really glad to hear that the Bosch set has been solid for a few years!
What many people don't understand is the two most common grades of cobalt drill bits are M35 and M42, which contain 5% and 8% cobalt respectively but the more cobalt the more brittle the bit is. So if you are drilling cast iron or harder grades of steel and you go caveman pressure that deflects the bit it will snap immediately, it's just the nature of the beast. Slow and steady wins the race.
You're exactly right.
Adding onto that - if you’re using these with a hand drill, eventually the material and the drill will catch up you will get deflection and they will snap.
If you don’t have a drill press or other machining tool then you really don’t need these nor will you really get much out of them. You’d be better off with a different type of drill for whatever you’re doing.
You should also be aware that these are like many other HF tools. By that I mean you’ll probably have to clean up the tip on most of them which is fine for the bigger sizes but a pain in the ass and not worth it for the smaller ones.
@@TadpoleTrainer does a magbase drill count as a ‘drill press’?
I’ve been raring to get me one on the off chance I need such a thing, but the price point is kinda putting me off. I do have a drill press and a tabletop mini mill.
@@TadpoleTraineras a mechanic I have to drill out cross threaded, broke or rusted bolts occasionally. What do you recommend for that use case?
@@ronsimmaculatedetailing6335 whatever gets the job done 😂 if the bit is sharp and harder than the fastener, it will cut through it at some rate. If I can’t weld a nut on and get it off like that then I usually just use a regular HSS bit. If one of these cobalt bits breaks off in the bolt I really don’t want to figure out how I’m getting that out too
Some people think cobalt means indestructible. But a Milwaukee one drilling cast iron and braking? Priceless. I almost picked up the same set the last time they had a clearance sale. Still kicking myself... Great video! Thanks!
Thanks! People never cease to amaze me. If you do get the set, let me know how it works for you. :)
I'm amazed at your results. Thanks for taking so much time in your tests.
I have purchased a couple of smaller kits and the one thing I noticed was bits under about 5/16 were sometimes bent. I could see them wobble in the drill press even before they touched anything.
Thanks for the compliment! I really appreciate it, Scott.
Years ago I bought the 115 M2 black oxide set off Harbor Freight for the princely sum of $29.95. For the price I really can't complain. I drill mild steel with it. I wouldn't try to drill anything harder than that. They don't stay sharp for very long but I know how to sharpen bits. Over the years I've been replacing bits in the set with different bits as I come across them. The set in this video looks nice to me.
$30 for 115 is a heck of a deal. Like you said, just sharpen them when they need it.
I got this same set because I needed some of the more obscure sizes for knife making/modding and I’ve not had any issues with them in various materials. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome, and thank you for the comment! I hope your knife making projects go well.
I've used both the Warrior and the Milwaukee set for the last year or so. About 45/45/10% on a Bridgeport a lathe and a hand drill. Ironically the #7 has been sitting in my tap index about since I bought the Warrior set. And that has been mostly used on a hand drill. I did snap one Milwaukee bit though drilling through (roughly) 38mm 316 plate. The rest have held up fine. Keep em lubed and take your time with your feed rates and they are just fine.
Man, 38mm 316 plate is a job for sure! The #7 really does get a lot of use. It seems like half of my gadgets are 1/4-20.
5 years ago I bought the HF 13 bit hex drive cobalt drill set and they have been unbelievably good. For most projects I don't need to get the big drill index out. They are tough.
Good report. Thanks SH.
Thank you! Good to hear how yours are holding up.
Absolutely cutting speed relative to the material is paramount.
100% - makes all the difference between an easy cut and a broke drill bit.
These are on sale now for $50! Just got a hand-me-down drill press. Going to buy this set tomorrow purely off your review. Thank you for taking the time to produce a no-nonsense video!
Dang, I’ve been trying to save money, but dangit, can’t go wrong imo for $50…
Man that's a great price!! I appreciate your comment, and your compliment. I hope the set works out for you.
Are you aure you aren't thinking of the titanium drill bit set? Because the cobalt set is still priced at $100 on harbor freights website.
I have been using these drills for years on steel, stainless, and titanium . My machinist friend recommended them years ago. Best bang for your buck..
I agree, such an incredible value. Are they perfect? No. Are they pretty damn good, and an amazing value? Yes sir.
No you haven't.. NOT stainless (any grade) and NOT Titanium...
@@twistedhillbilly6157
Speed and cutting oil exists, as does experience as to what speed and pressure to use. It absolutely can be done.
I agree with you. Some of the negative reviews were all about the operator using the drill bit. I've ruined/broken several drill bits while drilling by hand (no cutting fluid, hot holding the drill motor steady, and my fav...bearing down on the drill motor like the hulk because I just wanna get the hole drilled and be done with it). You've convinced me that this particular Harbor Freight tool product is a worthwhile investment. Thanks!
You're welcome! I hope that they work out for you as well as they have so far for me. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
A little input from a machinist. I use cobalt drills specifically on stainless. If you want to test these drills, carefully hand drilling some sheet stainless is the test.
To convert to and from metric the magic number is 25.4. A #7 drill is .201"... .201" X 25.4 = 5.1054mm ... 5.1054 / 25.4 = .201" ... This is faster for me than a conversion table.
Good video! I'm planning on buying a set of these for my home shop!
Thanks man. I really appreciate the thoughts about stainless. I’m going to have to give that a go. Most of the stuff I work with around my garage-based workshop is mild steel, aluminum and brass so that’s what I went with but stainless would be a really good test too.
Your conversion trick is solid.
The magic is to have a drill guide chart that has all the numbers, letters and fractional sizes with their decimal equivalents and metric values. If you can figure out how to access my Google docs there's a nice one to print out there. The best you're going to find on the Internet. It's the Rosetta stone.
@@ShopHumor For softer material in a home-shop, HSS isn't just as good, it's better than cobalt. It's less hard, which means less brittle. HSS is more forgiving, less likely to chip, and easier to sharpen. Save money, buy a cheaper set, and buy a drill-doctor (ish) sharpening rig. Always have sharp bits.
Shops use cobalt because it's all about the lifecycle metrics... how many holes in a give material before replacing the not quite dull bit before it breaks. Time is money and if a dialed-in machine can push a harder bit through faster for longer, it's worth the cost. That isn't how home-shops typically work.
In my shop, the only time I've ever used a bit from sharp to dull is when I've used the wrong bit. Most every time, I drill the few holes i need, look at the bit when I take it out, and if it shows any wear I take the 30 seconds to sharpen it before I put it away for the next time. It's always sharp when I start.
Now, if I start drilling a hole and the bit falls on its proverbial face, usually in under 13 seconds, that's when the cobalt bits come out, after I re-sharpen the bit I just wrecked. And, then I'm careful because the chunk of mysterium metal I started with is obviously a lot harder than I thought. Then it's all: watch for chatter, don't let the material work-harden, etc., etc..
I've had one of these sets (version before the cobalt) since 2006 and have never broken one. I use a mill and a lathe with them. I've misplaced a couple probably owing to magnets and magnetic tools snatching them up, or getting lost in a swarf purge. As with any drill watch the speeds and feeds and use a coolant/lubricant whenever possible.
That’s really impressive that you’ve had them for almost 20 years and not broken one! You’re right about technique (feeds/speeds) and lube.
FYI you should be using a spot drill not a center drill. A center drill is for using lathe centers. A spot drill has a wider angle (usually 140°) than your drill so the point touches first and helps keep it centered
Thanks Will. I'll need to put a spotting drill on the list of tools to buy. Got any recommendations or do you think just any old one will do?
@@ShopHumor we use ones from McMaster at work. They're pretty inexpensive and they offer carbide and cobalt ones. Just search "spotting drill". 🍻
@@ShopHumor
Guhring 9005460060000
Keo 103-034144
Emuge EFUT3300.0635
Harvey Tool 737816
They come in all sorts of sizes, 1/8" 1/4" 6mm 8mm 10mm 12mm. Picking one sometimes depends on if you want an edge break on the drilled hole or not.
The design of newer drills have a 140 degree drill point and are "self centering." The "correct" spot drill has a 142 degree angle. This way the center of the drill point will make contact first and align itself with the spot.
The way you were doing it should work for a manual lathe and mill, but will beat up the corners of the drill. It worked for 50 years, so it would be fine for what you are doing. In large quantity runs, I'd say get a 142 degree.
Over 8x diameter you want to pilot drill (1.5x to 5x diameter pilot).
All this depends on the alignment of machine as well. Your lathe drill chuck looks off center. The drill moves on the way out of the part and moves back on the way in.
Why spend more $'s when a centerdrill works just fine?
@@jims6323 because if you need precise holes then you need to start drilling with the tip of the bit and not out on the flutes
I've learned over the years that you do not force a tool you must let it do its job or fails thanks for showing the tool doing its job without being forced
You’re welcome. That’s some wisdom right there. As soon as you force it, it’s gonna break or bend or screw up wharever you’re working on
I have a set of these. They serve me quite well.
Glad to hear it. Been getting a lot of use out of mine!
Great review! I am using two of these sets and running them hard with heavy machines most often holding with collets increasing performance in a variety of alloys. Most often I do not use this type of bit in hand drills unless its the last resort, always starting with economy HF bits. Some bits I use like #3, #7, Q for example I will order 10 at a time from an industrial dealer. A Huot drill index and some early import indexes are worth the cost in the long run.
Yeah I agree completely. For anything you're using on a regular basis or for production runs, just get a stockpile of decent quality so you'll never run out. And for hand drills I always use my cheaper bits too.
@@ShopHumor A machining book from the early 1900s said the drill bit is the hardest working and most abused tool in the shop. Some things don't change.
They sure don’t. I’ll do things with a drill that I’d never do with one of my end mills. 😂
Nothing like having a cheap harbor freight tool do serious work after listening to some chucklehead crap all over it.
I get the impression that a lot of people who do that haven’t actually ever picked up a tool in their life.
A craftsman never blames his tools. Maybe that's because he has good tools? Or maybe it's just because he knows how to work with what he has? I don't know.
I bought this same set and have been loving it but I don't drill out much metal. I mostly use them for thin sheet metal, plastics and wood and having the ability to drill those in a plethora of different sizes was worth the purchase for me and I figured if I break any I would replace it with a "better quality" one. Nice to know if I want to drill steel I can though. Great video!
Thank you! I just used mine on some acetal copolymer (simile to Delrin) and it was sooo satisfying.
It is fascinating how complicated freedom drill sizes is. Here in metric world the standard drill set has 0.5 mm to 16 mm in 0.5 mm steps. They might skip some of the larger sizes to make it a set of maybe 20-30 drills instead of ridiculous 115.
This is not a standard set for the US. This is the set you need to make all the holes for things like starting thread cutting operations. Normally you are looking at 29 sizes in a US set. The step sizes are a load of wank though.
It really is ridiculous. Metric is so much easier to use, but we have to work with what we have. Thanks for the comment!
Remember they are just numbers, no need to fear them or be confused by them!
There are 3 separate series of drills used in the US. Fractional sizes, letters, and numbers. This set includes all 3 series.
How do you drill for starting a thread operation in metric? If you want a m2 threaded hole what drill do you use to start?
I have a set. I bought them for the variety and the index. I use the standard bits alot since they're easier to replace, and only use the rest when absolutely needed. I've had them for several months now and use them frequently. So far not a single complaint and can't even remember having to sharpen one. I would definitely buy again.
Your experience mirrors my own. Thanks for sharing!
I actually purchased that miserable Bosch 14 piece set from menards for work since I foolishly believed they were going to be OK quality. I wasn't expecting viking quality, but at least a step up from the cheap bits. Nope, I got 2 holes out of the 1/4" bit drilling through 1/2" drywall and a metal stud. The 3rd hole, I couldn't drill through the metal stud, which is basically sheet metal. Just some of the worst bits I've ever used, and I was disgusted since I've had decent luck with bosch tools before but hadn't bought any of their consumables. LIght maintenance work and after 1 year all but 3 of the bits have been pitched. I know how to sharpen bits, but we don't have a grinder at work and they aren't good enough quality to bother anyway. They're honestly about the same quality as those super cheap 'TiN' coated bits you see in those $4.99 bins at hardware stores.
I've actually had better luck with that harbor freight set, although part of the reason is that I reserve those bits for when I need a particular size (tapping and lathe work mostly). They've been very true to size and perform well, the only ones I've had issues with are the super tiny number bits, which like any small bit will break if you even look at them funny. Probably the main issue there is that I can't spin them up fast enough in either the lathe or drill press, but that isn't the fault of the drills.
That’s really disheartening to hear how negative your experience has been with that Bosch set. Not good when they’re on par with the bargain bin TiN coated bits but for a lot more money.
I have a Harbor Freight drill index similar to this I bought 30 + years ago. Probably just HSS. I mostly work with wood, but I do drill aluminum, brass, and some steel. I’m a guitar maker.
The set is still going strong, except for some of the small wire gauge bits I broke or lost.
I use them in a drill press and hand drill.
Man, getting 30 years out of a set of drills is simply outstanding. Making guitars sounds really cool, I bet that isn't easy!
Be cautious using cobalt bits in soft materials!
Cobalt bits are very hard, and prone to shattering.
Specifically small diameter should only be used for stationary drill press work.
Any misalignment or "grab/bind" will cause shattering of the bit.
I've had pretty good luck with using them in soft materials, including Delrin, but I always use them in rigid machinery like the lathe or the mill. I wouldn't ever use them in a hand tool like that.
Great production quality. Thanks for the Video. I have a set of the cheapest HF set, and they run fine. Just keep them out of a hand drill. Earned yourself another subscriber.
Hey thanks Robert, I appreciate it. Glad yours are running fine.
it ain't the lube, it's the rpm's..........and feed rate.....so many have no idea how to set up a drill press....
no matter how many times I tell the morons I have to work with, they still cant get it right........
cheers.....Paul
Thanks Paul! I appreciate it
Feeds and Speeds, one of the first things we learned in Machining 101. Many people, myself included, haven't thought about what feed rate you are trying to force when you put your full weight against a hand drill.
Oh that final/FINAL thought has me dying 😂
Glad you enjoyed 😂
Those reviews are like the ones that use 1/4 in impact to remove lug nits on a car or complain a cordless ratchet doesn't have enough torque to remove set bolts.
They just don't know how to use tools or are using the wrong tool for the job.
Yep. I’m always so skeptical of negative tool reviews after having seen how people treat their tools. Especially when they’re trying to make a tool do a job that it wasn’t designed for, and then they cry about it when they mess it up.
Exactly. Someone with a hand drill smoking them and blaming the bits.
Ive had a set of these for years and I have been very happy with them.
That's great! I hope they work out as well for me as they have for you.
@@ShopHumor Probably going on 10 years. Almost every single bit has wear on it. Most , if not all, of the common sized have been resharpened (by me) multiple times. In that time I have lost or broken only a couple of the very small bits and broken one of the large bits (I forget which one). I originally purchased the set because I needed to drill out 8x 3/16ths grade 5 bolts that were seized. the 1/2 bit made short work of those and was still sharp after. Keep em cool and they will last you a decade.
Half a thou off, .499.5 cheers.
Lol yeah. I was waiting for someone to point that out. One of those things I caught on my first watch after hitting upload to UA-cam, but somehow missed during the several hours of editing that it took to put together.
Good eye and thanks for the correction!!
@@ShopHumor great review thanks 👍
I’ve been buying dewalt black and gold bits on sale at Christmas time
For average use mostly on mild steel but have had good success with them
Thanks! The guy at Project Farm had really good things to say about those black Dewalts in his video a few years ago. They really outperformed some more expensive sets.
*@navaho5430* He wrote 5 thou instead of 50 but you added a decimal to a decimal. He missed his error after spending hours editing his video down to nine minutes. How long did it take you to write your comment?
@@paulweston8184 I agree, but in the machinist world .001 is considered just 1 quite commonly. So should be .4995 to most people but 499.5 is common amongst precision machinists.
I have the same set and use them in a hand-held drill had them for a year +. I've only broke 2 ( I totally knew I was going to break them), but the thickest metal I've drilled was 1/8 inch fine for what I need
Hey man if they do the job you need them to do, what else can you ask for? That's great!
6:12 that's 5 ten-thousandths off, not thousandths
You’re exactly right; one of those dang errors I looked for over and over but missed before I hit upload. Good eye.
While I don’t have a particular interest in, or need for, a box of 100+ drill bits, UA-cam recommended this video so I watched. I do like DYI content, so perhaps that’s why.
I really appreciate your dry humor narration style, while still delivering useful information. I’m now subscribed and looking forward to viewing some additional content. Hope it helps you too.
Thank you so much for the kind words and encouragement. I also have a love of all (well, most) things DIY. I hope future videos entertain :)
Consumables. Drill bits. I guess the kind of people who would buy a $100 box of drills like that, view drills as being disposable
A lot of comments on the "knowing how to drill a hole" thing. They're not wrong. I'm an engineer working in a manufacturing/processing environment. As such I have learned that maintenance folks can destroy any tool or tooling, along with machinery and equipment. Any harder type bit will fracture if shock loaded, side loaded or overheated, so we took those away. We happened upon cryogenically treated HSS. They're the toughest bits I have ever used. They hold an edge and cut similar to cobalt/carbide, yet were more tolerant of misuse/abuse. While not indestructible, they're truly a great general purpose bit, albeit a bit pricey.
Those sounds intriguing … I’m going to start my day reading about cryogenically treated HSS drill bits :)
I have heard of this process before but I believe it had a more, unrefined name, which involves "freezing your work" to a high degree.
I don't know what those guys are bitching about, but I have that same set of cobalt drill bits and they all work just fine. Those others either don't know how to use those drills or are too rough on them. Some push too hard on drill bits in steel or use the wrong size and the wrong speed. I'm in Canada and we don't have HF. Our equivalent would be Princess Auto...basically the same kind of store.
I’ve never had the pleasure of shopping at a Princess Auto but next time I’m in Canada I’ll give it a look. You’re right that 99% of peoples problems with drills is using them incorrectly - wrong speed, wrong size, wrong pressure.
Yep. A person can ruin the best made bits in seconds if they go too hard, too fast or too slow.
Operator error doesn’t not mean the bits are bad.
positive attitude, good sense of humour, and informative, subscribed! good luck on your UA-cam journey ☺️
Thank you!! I really appreciate it.
I bought a similar set from a different tool house. It gave me a good selection of seldom used drills. I have had mixed results. A handful of the number drills were not straight, a couple split up the web. I use a lot of the drills for #4,6,8,10 pilot holes for taps, and the clearance holes. Most of those are now replaced, and just happened to be where I found the bent drills fresh from the box.
I've only done a few spot checks on maybe two dozen of the 115 pieces and mine have been straight and sharp so far, but I think I ought to get each one out and see if there are any duds.
I bought this set probably 10 years ago and have used them a ton on lathe, mill and drill press, nothing wrong with them. It's the only good drill bit set they have. As you said the case is not great but I don't close it anyway since it sits in top of my tooling cart. I did snap the 3/8 and 1/2 using an old heavy duty Makita 1/2 corded hand drill. That old drill will wind you up so I can't blame the bits, my fault for not stepping up hole size in smaller increments.
I've re-sharpened many of the common sizes numerous times and of course broke some of the small bits. Will be buying a new set next year to finally replace it. 10 years and lots of use ,I'll gladly spend another ~$100 for a fresh set.
Man, 10 years of hard use is an incredible value. Thanks for letting me know about your experience with them.
I got a couple that were just bent out of the index and lots of the others were somewhat dull. But overall I’m happy with the purchase because I can discover which sizes I really need and replace them with quality drills over time.
I’m sorry you got some that were bent. I think you’re right that having the index on hand, along with extras of the bits you use most frequently, is the best way to do it.
I've had the HF Cobalt set for many years. Assuming the current set is of the same quality as my old set, and that's never a certainty, I'm a big fan. They cut well and maintain an edge well. Cobalt drills are more brittle than ordinary HSS drills so some care is required. And they must be kept sharp over time as is true for all drills. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. You're right about maintaining and sharpening your drills (and other cutting tools, too!) - makes all the difference.
I picked up the smaller set of cobalt bits from HF while l was still drilling stainless and other alloys all day upfitting emergency vehicles, and they held up wonderfully after some initial tuning and sharpening on the ones that needed a bit of a tweak. Their spiral cobalt step bits are still some of the nicest I've ever used, and performed better than their pricetag ever would have indicated. Knowing how to use a drill was a factor tho, and l didn't loan them out to coworkers since l knew it would be a one way trip the way they baked all their bits
Yep, as soon as you loan them out you'll start getting them back in pieces. A lot of people -- not everyone, mind you -- but a lot of people just don't seem to care too much about tools unless they're the ones paying for them (if they even knew how to use them properly in the first place).
I bought this set and they are a great addition to my shop. I always pull them out for the tougher metals to drill.
Thanks for letting me know about your experience with them! My experience has been similar to yours
I bought this set a month or so ago but have not used it yet. I did have a 13 bit cobalt set from Milwaukee that I used, and abused, for work. It lasted many years of occasional use. I broke a couple of bits recently and got another similar set, we will see how that lasts. Great info, subscribed!
Thank you so much for the subscription and the comment! I hope the set works out for you :)
I bought the milwaukee cobalt set with double cutting heads. Almost exclusively run in a hand drill through 1/4 inch to 1/2 steel. Have yet to break or dull any of them in almost 2 years. I am a fan to be sure
Sounds like you’ve had a good experience with those for sure
I really like your video style. I didn't need the review as I've got a nice "3 way" drill set already. But watched it and was quickly captivated by the style of video. I'm looking forward to catching up on some of your other videos.
Thanks Bruce! You'll have to wait a little while because that was my first video, but hopefully more to see soon. I appreciate it.
I've had my HF Cobalt bit set for over 10 years and still haven't ever broken one and they're all still cutting/drilling fine. But they're also just for DIY home stuff.
I orignally bought them to drill out 4 broken CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS on a GM 4.2L I6. They drilled through those cylinder head bolts LIKE THEY WERE MADE OF ALUMINUM.
That's awesome. Sounds like you've got your moneys worth and then some. Thanks for the comment. :)
Great video, no distracting noise or "music", subscribed. I've been a fabricator for three decades and want a set, a good one, but big dollars aren't in the budget. I made a quarter to a third of my salary this far dealing with broken bolts, stripped threads and the like, so I like to think I know about drill bits, taps and dies. Maybe I'll buy this set and just not let anyone else touch it, seems like fair for the money. Harbor freight quality scares the crap out of me with drills and taps, did you review their taps? I already trust your opinion seeing this video alone.
Thank you so much for the compliment, for watching, and taking the time to leave a thoughtful comment. I really appreciate it! I haven't reviewed their taps but I have a set of 50 year old craftsman taps and a set of HF taps. I like using the Craftsman more but I have NOT done a thorough evaluation. My Craftsman set is all SAE and the Harbor Freight set has metric which is why I got it in the first place.
I have a higher end Bosch drill set, and misplaced it in my bedroom, so I picked up this HF set. I've used it with my Hitachi HPT 1/2" 18V Hammer drill with wood, to modify a Cat pressure washer pump I was trying to removed from a rusted Honda drive shaft, and to drill out some rusted and snapped off bolts on said pump crank case, and have had no issues at all. For the money, and because I've needed some really esoteric drill sizes and this set met the task, it has been well worth the purchase with a discount code, military discount, etc, getting them for next to nothing at final bill.
Next to nothing is hard to beat. Glad they're working out for you and it sounds like you've put them through their paces. Thanks for the comment!
I've had the standard, non cobalt, set like that from HF for years in my home shop and haven't have any complaints.
If it works, it works! Right?
Speeds and feeds, thats where the performance lays, that and cutting oil to keep temperatures down so you dont roast the drills cutting edges, especially important when drilling stainless steel which has a habit of work hardening. Well presented, and informative! Thanks for the review on the drill set.....
Thank you Michael! I really appreciate it.
I bought a set that looks identical to those at a flea market about 30 years ago, and it's actually held up pretty well. A few of the drills I use the most such as #7, 1/4", #21, 5/16", 3/8" eventually got chipped or worn out after drilling hundreds of holes, and I'd buy good individual replacements for those. I mostly use them in a drill press with cutting oil. I think a lot of people ruin drills because they don't know what they're doing. They'll drill through stainless steel with no cutting oil, and then not press hard enough. All that does is cook the cutting edge and ruin it. It's always important to push hard enough that you're getting a curl started. If you don't get a curl, you're not pushing hard enough. If you're using a hand drill, start off with a 1/8" pilot drill before stepping up to a larger bit. Split point stubby cobalt drills work great to make a pilot hole in steel or stainless steel, but they're brittle, so don't do any jerky side to side motions or you might snap them in half.
I think you're exactly right. People who don't know what they're doing with a tool blame the tool when it get's damaged!
I've used a variety of harbor freight drill sets like this over the years their great general purpose shop bits and it doesn't hurt as much when someone decides to abuse them and break them we have sets of last three years in general use they're used to drill essentially anything that you would drill with a drill bit metals plastic steel tool steel I think they're a little harder than a lot of drill bits and actually will drill a harder material better than a more expensive drill any case they're a great value for the money even if they are at the world's greatest drill bit
Yep I think the value is just really good. At 65 cents each, it’s hard to compete. I’m just a hobbyist so I don’t do a ton of super hard materials but these cut through mild steel with zero issues. For my needs they’re just fine.
I've had that set for almost 20 years now. I knew they were cheap, but they've always got the job done.
If they get the job done, cheaper is better IMO.
Just got this set as a birthday gift and already worked great on angle aluminum stock to reinforce my daughters crib definitely happy
Sounds like a great gift and an even better first project to use them on :)
I just clicked the channel to see video series of CNC conversion and was suprised this is your first video! Subscribed!
Hey, thank you very much! I might go over the CNC conversion if there is any interest in that in a future video, or at least hit the highlights of the components and enclosure.
@@ShopHumor Yeah, the highlights might be great!
I have 2 sets of HF cobalt drills. The first is nearly 30 years old (back when HF was mail-order!) and has been heavily used over the years as the go-to bits for a woodworking DIY guy, with the occasional soft metal or 1/8" steel. Sure a few broke over the years and a few of the most-used drills have gotten a bit dull and needed to be sharpened. BUT, for what I paid for them, I am thrilled. I bought another set a couple years ago, with a good coupon. They are still new!
30 years out of a set of drills is incredible. That's such a good value. Thanks for letting me know!
Bought that set at least 20 years ago. No complaints if you don’t run them too hard and sharpen them regularly.
Sounds good to me! A sharp tool is a good tool. Thank you.
I haven't tried this large set from HFT, but I did buy their 1/16"-1/2" cobalt set a while back and it's been great. I use them in my machine shop regularly for materials that want a little extra that HSS can't deliver, like on stainless. So far none have broken, and none have dulled.
That’s really cool. I’ve seen a few people mention that they use them on stainless with good results! Very encouraging, thank you for letting me know your experience.
The next project I’m working on is an easy one in 6061 aluminum but maybe the one after that I’ll have to get some stainless…
Used HF M35 drills almost exclusively for years. The only breakage was my fault. The only dulling was actually micro chipping caused by drilling hardened steel. They are a little brittle, which is a worthwhile tradeoff for having a good hard bit that stays sharp.
Haven't run mine through any hardened steel yet, but have a few projects in mind for the future...
Well done i have had good luck with them thus far so im happy
Thank you!
I've had my set for years and it has done nothing but impress. One of the first projects I used them for was drilling 400 1/4" holes in 1/4" inch thick angle iron. I figured I would at least have to introduce that bit to the Drill Doctor a couple times. But no, drilled the 400th hole as smoothly as it drilled the first, No Sharpening! From that day on I've been singing it's praise's.
Man that’s awesome, 400 holes off the bat is a good way to get familiar with them in a hurry!
I bought this set 5 or 6 years ago and only ever broke the smallest of the drills when doing dumb stuff. I love them and will buy them again. I use them weekly in my shop for various tasks. We even used them to open up the center hole on some jeep leaf springs with no issue.
Drilling leaf springs is no joke. Glad they're working well for you. Thanks for the comment!
I bought a set of these about 10 years ago. I still have them and use them fairly regularly. I've had to sharpen a few of them a couple times, but other than that, they've been good for my little hobby shop. Back then they were only around $50. The strangest part about my set is that the drill numbers 23-30 started rusting badly. The rest are fine.... it's weird.
Great video. Nice editing. Hope to see more. New sub.
That's really weird! Some defect in the manufacturing process maybe? So strange. Thank you for the comment and sub, I really appreciate it!
Harry homeowner here and I've owned that set for almost 20 years. I have broken about a dozen on them but it's still my GoTo set of drill bits for random projects. There's enough different steps of sizes that even if a bit is broken there are 3-4 more in there I can probably get away with. Result, I always have a drill bit handy. Now if I were a 'professional' would I use these everyday, hell no, but for some random hole I need to drill around the house they are awesome.
Yep, different products for different needs. And if they get the job YOU need them to get done, what's there to complain about? Well... maybe the crappy case lol
I got a smaller set that work fine but it really just made me realize that you need to buy a bunch of the same size for every specific project no matter how cheap or expensive your drill bits are. You gotta buy a bunch for each project one will almost never be enough
Always more tools to buy right? It's like a black hole for my wallet
nice job
I should have realized on my own about cobalt bits not being good for hand operated tools after messing up so many, but this video has convinced me to leave them right by the drill press...
Thanks Alex. I appreciate it. I'm sorry to hear that some of yours got messed up, but I bet that your drill press will be happy =]
I have 3 sets of these and love them. One set in the service truck, one in the shop toolbox and one permanently parked next to the mill. Can't go wrong for the money.
That's awesome. I don't have 3 sets (yet) but for the price it's hard to go wrong with just putting a set where you're going to need it. Thank you!
Thank you !!! I thought I was alone on how expensive drill bits are, and I'm big believer not cheaping out on tools. Once looking in a lot of review from reddit, UA-cam and Amazon. I came to the cobalt drill bit set from harbor freight they are good, and I'm happy with the buy. I definitely recommend using them on a drill Press makes it safer for your drill bits not to breaking. I also tried there $30 115pc titanium set and I'm also happy with the buy. Reason I also bought the cheaper set cause I wanted to use the cheaper set. Im sort of still a beginner on metal work and learning how take care of my tools. Also, sharpening bits are little tricky so Hense the practice cheap set. You just can't beat harbor freight deals.
For $30 that’s great to practice technique and sharpening too! Good idea :)
This set of drills is good. Not great but also not bad. My set is probably 17 years old and I still have almost all of the original drills. They're my backups to better drills up to 3/8". My oldest drill index dates back to 1972 and most if not all are not the original drills; having been replaced as necessary. I use the HF numbered drills and those over 3/8" frequently. Very few have been replaced. They are rarely used in a hand drill; more likely to be used in a drill press, milling machine or lathe. I'm an amateur machinist and do machine work several days every week. I only use a hand drill when I can't use machinery. The holes are not perfectly sized nor are they perfectly round but that is not the exclusive domain of cheap drills. Name brand drills from the home improvement and hardware stores are also capable of out of round or off sized holes. The index, as you said, is pretty crappy but it does serve to help me make sure I put everything back where it belongs.
After all of that, I no longer buy HF drills. I've bought several specialty sets that weren't straight, had bad heat treating (would bend without breaking) and in general found that none of the other HF drills that I have purchased were as good as this set. My work is generally precision work as a volunteer on a battleship restoration and I can't be messing up expensive raw materials due to poor tooling.
Thank you for the comment and letting me know about your experiences. You mentioned getting out to your shop several days a week - what projects do you usually work on?
Bosch set has been good for me. I'd definitely try the HF. Thanks
The Bosch set did really well on Project Farm's drill bit round up testing if I remember correctly, I am not surprised!
@@ShopHumor I'm pretty sure that's why i picked them. 👍
drilling holes with a cordless hand drill i always start with a 9/64 cobalt drill bit because i buy packs of 10 on amazon cheap. from that starter hole it depends what the finish hole is . up to 3/8 i just drill the final hole over that i go with 1/4 or so then the final drill. i like the hex shank bits for a hand drill as they don't slip. with this method i can drill through 1 inch thick steel or more pretty quick. like 5 minutes a hole. use cutting oil as well or you will burn out the bits. on the larger holes use low speed
Sounds like you get the job done. Drilling through to 1 inch steel is no joke.
Bought the Drill master version of this set 10 years ago. The idea was replace the common used bits as needed but still have the odd sizes whiteout breaking the budget. It’s been great for light shop use. Replaced a few and had some broken by the shop help that don’t know how to use a drill but overall it’s been a good buy. I just wish the index case wasn’t garbage
The index case really is trash. I guess they had to cut corners somewhere!
I've bought HFT drills in the full set of letter, number, and fractions, as well as the fraction set, and a number set. All are fine for working Aluminum, wood, PCB, copper and thin steel, For working steel USE Cutting Oil and proper speed. They probably won't last as long as name brand drills, but for hobby / home shop use are worth the price.
I had actually seen a Project Farm video here earlier in the year where he tested some cobalts of various brands and they held up fairly well. Not the best, but they certainly weren't the worst, either.
I'm a locksmith and I actually found the best harbor Freight drill bits that they sell were recently discontinued. They were on clearance so I bought every set that they had. I drill out locks all the time. Sometimes hardened steel locks with ball bearings in there just to resist drilling. Years ago I was out on a job and I accidentally left my drill bits at the previous job. So I searched through my toolbox and found a blue box of left hand drill bits from harbor Freight. They were the sharpest high-speed steel drill bits I've ever used. They are right up there with my Norseman set. As long as you don't burn them up they last a very very long time. They come in a nice blue metal container that snaps closed very well. Not a plastic recycled sewer pipe case that breaks in a week. If there are any left at your harbor Freight, you should buy a few sets. I bought them to remove broken fasteners but now they are my go-to for portable lock drilling.
Thanks for the tip! I imagine you drill more holes in a month than most folks will in their entire life, given your occupation. Valuable insight, thank you :)
Nicely done.
Nice humor too.
Thank you! I really appreciate it
Thanks. FYI, McMaster sells all the individual sizes in high quality bits. I use those to replace broken and/or special sizes. That Harbor Freight is probably a really good deal - just replace the common sizes as they get broken. And have a good sharpener for the large bits.
Thank you! I'll be stockpiling extras of my most commonly used sizes. I order from McMaster-Carr relatively frequently (their website is second to none IMO).
Great video, this makes a good case for cheap cutting tools. You're absolutely correct in that it takes skill to use tools properly and that using them in rigid machinery helps a lot. Even the best sets out there wouldn't hold up to an idiot using them. We run a small production shop, i mostly do the electronics and i code as well, but most importantly, I run the place as the owner. I have one guy doing general assembly for sheet metal enclosures etc so he does a lot of drilling and tapping with relatively small sizes (M2, M3, occasionally M5). He breaks maybe 1 tap a year or every other year. We had an intern working with him this summer and that guy broke 6 taps in one day. When asked how, the guy said he didn't know, that he just went at it with a cordless drill and it just happened. Our guy does tapping in a drill press using proper cutting oil.
Thank you! Breaking 6 taps in one day is an expensive day for an intern! Just "going at it" with a cordless drill.. jeez.