The cobalt bit set is undoubtedly VERY high end. It was the first product of Harbor Freight's that I would call a "must buy". A coating can be halfassed, but an alloy needs to adhere to guidelines. And they do. I bought it a year or so ago and absolutely LOVE them and recommend them to everyone. Especially if you can pick em up with a 25% off coupon
I bought the cobalt set because of your review. They have been a good set at work for drilling out screws & bolts for extraction. This is why I enjoy your channel,it helps me make informed choices on all kinds of tools.
Thank you for your comment I recommend buying a drill gauge at some point so you can re sharpen them by hand but still get an accurate tip on them Cobalt bits are too expensive to not re sharpen
Right dude amen baby peace to the man bby got back and tries to whammy it right in there before the end is even close to the trash bin my guy it’s just exceptionally delightful let me tell you. And thanks again for the comment on the content and being the man w/ the plan jet setting to Japan. Make sure to eat your matzah with kangaroo foreskin
Thanks for the video. My thoughts on the reduced diameter shank, is the 115 pc cobalt is intended for machinists and fabricators, that would typically have easy access to 1/2" chucks. The full size shank will have a higher max torque before slipping than the reduced shank set. So for those with big enough chucks, the full size shank is a feature.
I use the HF cobalt set in my CNC machine. I think I paid $80 or so with the 25% coupon. This is hands down the best price for a complete 130 degree cobalt set that's halfway decent. You won't find anything else close. I run them in titanium mostly and the only ones I've broken have been in titanium and stainless, which is no surprise. The nice part is that you get a complete size set, so as you figure out which ones you really need you can just order multi packs of specific size cobalt bits elsewhere, but you'll always have the complete size set keeping you ready for anything. These bits punch aluminum and mild steel no problem. Infinitely better than generic jobbers.
Just found your channel a few weeks ago. Really enjoy watching your videos. I have a 5 week old and at 2am on the couch holding her your videos make the time go by faster. Keep up the good work!
1/4" DOES NOT EQUAL 6mm. 6.35mm = 1/4"!!!!!!!!! Also if you are using a reamer you should worry about the run out on your drill chuck, that may be more than the accuracy you'd get using the reamer over a twist drill.
The best deals I ever got were on reamers, $2.00 a pound from the Boeing surplus store. Steel containers the size of pickup truck beds full of reamers and aerospace drill bits, all by the pound, most in visually perfect condition. Actually, come to think of it, I think the reamers and milling cutters were $4.00 a pound, drills $2.00 per. (mid-2000's). The aerospace drills are still my go-to bits for sizes 1/16 to 3/8. They have a nice reduced diameter pilot on the tip that helps guide the bit for match drilling and to avoid blasting out the back of the hole. Fantastic.
I work for a high tech ceramics company and they had a five gallon bucket full of carbide end mills and reamers that were for the most part in great shape they just gave to me. I think they got them from Boeing or were from some project we did for Boeing. All I know is I got thousands of dollars worth of tooling for free.
Don't use them in a hand drill- only the drill press or lathe or milling machine and they probably won't break unless your rough on stuff. Punch your spot on the material so the bit won't wander and SNAP!
I drives me nuts that almost all manufacturers mark the size where you're going to chuck the drill, one slip and the numbers are gone. I don't understand why they do that instead of marking them closer to the flutes.
Thanks for the interesting review here ( and the one on step drills). I recently started using cobalt bits and wish I’d discovered them sooner! Recently picked up a 13 pc set of M35 bits at Menards for 9.99 on sale, and a 14 pc Bosch M42 set for a bit more. I’ve been able to drill grade 5 and 8 bolt heads now, and safety wire them where needed. I love the 30 pc Micro Bit set from HF too. Very useful. I’m just a hobbyist but I’ve subscribed.
As a Millwright, you showed me all I need to see at 5:58 with the tip isn't ground. Can't do thousandths of a inch this way so stick to bits that cost a boat load more! I'm not joking when I say this, The bits will walk about 15 thousandths and ruin your billet. Hoped to save so $ but W. W. Grainger still remains my store!
081723/1543h PST 🇺🇸 That was a good description which is known widely to all. Thank you. One major and important item that was omitted was, the Bit itself. Are the exhibits CGS OR FPS units? Thanks.
Interesting comparison. Regarding reamers, they're not really "designed to have excellent centering" in the absolute sense. Reamers simply follow the path of the pre-existing hole. They shave a few thousandths off the walls and leave a precise diameter with smooth wall finish, but the path of the hole is based solely on the pre-existing hole. If you want/need to redirect the bore, you need a boring head.
How good are they? If I try drilling a grade 8 bolt, WILL IT DRILL THREW EASILY? I do not yet own a drill press so, I am relegated to using a hand drill, LUCKY ME... Soon hopefully?
Your measurements on the drill diameters may be off because you appear to be tightening the micrometer using the large knurled knob. Using the small knob ensures that the same amount of pressure is placed on the jaws for each measurement. Again, another fine review.
The large knurled knob is a friction thimble on this unit so you tighten down until it starts slipping the little knob on the back is just a speed knob
I tried to drill a hole in a very hard saw blade. My titanium and cobalt bits worked up to 1/8". Anything larger just heated up a bunch with out making much in the way of chips. I ended up using Spade bits e.g. Morse Cutting Tools 50459 Heavy Duty Spade Drill Bits, Solid Carbide, Bright Finish, 118 degree Point, 1/2" Size, $15. These went through the saw blade. The prices on Amazon vary widely over time. I've paid $30 for a 3/8" bit. So you may do way better checking out prices occasionally if you can wait. The spade bits don't have flutes, so they are not supposed to be used very deep. I've found that you can blow out the chips and drill deeper holes. I use them with a drill press (and cutting oil) whenever possible. Happy drilling and don't forget your eye protection!
The harder the material you're drilling the slower RPM you need to run. There's a way to figure out how fast you're supposed to go. You calculate the surface speed of the tool with this formula SFPM = (PI X DIA X RPM) / 12
@@camgere The other part of the equation of course is your target speed. But that varies depending on the tools you're using and the material you're working on. HSS in mild steel for instance is 100 SFPM. That's the base line. Everything else is up and down from there. Harder tools allow for higher speeds and harder materials demand slower speeds. There's speed charts online with all the different tools and materials. But without the surface speed formula none of that is worth much. As an example a 1/2" diameter tool going 400 RPM is 52 surface feet per minute. Which is about right for a harder material. You average pistol hand drill goes about 2,600 RPM. So full out is too fast for a HSS bit. That's why a lot of folks have problems drilling metal. Really a 1/8 bit is about all you can drill in soft steel full out with a hand electric drill and a HSS bit before you have to start slowing things down. But that's not how people operate. They figure steel needs more speed. Then they burn their bits up and wonder why it doesn't work.
Thanks for the example. It looks like I'll be moving the belt on those pulleys on my drill press more in the future. The lowest speed is 600 RPM and the chart next to the pulley says it is for 1/2 inch iron and steel. If I understand correctly, if you double the diameter of the drill you double the surface feet per minute. So I can scale up or down to other drill bit sizes. It's obvious that the more accurate you want to be, the more you need to know about the drill you are using and material you are drilling into. It's hard to get started when you don't know what you don't know. @@1pcfred
After your point about wobble I went back to confirm if mine were straight by rolling them on my table saw top. Some were better than others but 1/16” bit had a substantial wobble. Almost all had a slight wobble. This is the titanium 29 pc set at Harbor Freight so maybe it’s not the same set. Either way it’s getting tossed for a better set.
Using cobalt bits in a 3/8" hand drill is really the wrong application and a good way to break them. They are intended for a drill press or similar controlled setting being harder and more brittle. HSS bits will handle lateral stress better than cobalt and will wear better in a hand drill, many buyers don't realize this and blame the quality of the manufacture when they break cobalt bits.
Most drill bit should be a hair under listed size cause they always drill a bit over nominal. Like you said though a reamer is the right way to get a precision hole.
Not sure all Digital measuring tools seem to have software-based buttons not physical power switches which means there's always a little drain on the battery mean if I don't plan on using the tool for a while I will remove the battery so it doesn't just sit there and drain
To accurately measure a drill bit, never measure the shank. Always measure directly across the narrow cutting edges, not the wide area near the cutting edge. This takes a little practice to get consistent results.
Good review, about 80% of the holes I drill are simply clearance holes, great accuracy is not required, 5 thou over or under is meaningless, but for say tapping holes then yeah, best be within stated dimensions and tolerances, 'cause you can go from a class 2A fit to a 3A with just a few thou off.
I bought the HF 115 piece drill index, but it's been a disappointment. I'm building a model steam engine that requires a fair level of precision. I chucked up a #33 drill in my milling machine and noted that the chisel tip of the bit had visible runout. I thought that I just had not gotten it centered in the Jacob's chuck (very easy to do with smaller bits), so I very carefully re-chucked the bit. No improvement. I laid the bit on my surface plate, back lit it, and rolled it on the plate. The bit had a bow in it! And, that wasn't the only one that was not straight. This seemed to be more of a problem with the smaller numbered bits. The larger bits seem to dull rather quickly. The 5/16ths inch bit dulled to unusability after only two uses, and I wasn't even using that hard. I was drilling a 5/16ths inch hole in 3/8ths inch mild steel plate using cutting oil, and I had already piloted the holes with a 1/4 inch bit, so the 5/16ths inch bit only had to remove another 1/16 inch of material from the hole.
@@chuckphilpot7756 Hi Chuck, Thank you for taking the time to reply. That was my first thought; but, I chucked up a brand new, high-quality, Irwin, #33 bit and applied a dial test indicator to the unfluted shank. The runout on the indicator was only ± 0.0015 inches. The conclusive evidence was when I laid the problematic Harbor Freight #33 bit on a granite surface plate and rolled it. As I rolled it, the middle of the bit would bow up and down. The bit was clearly bent. Not every bit in the 115 bit HF set was similarly bent, but several of them were. I'm keeping the HF drill bit set, I just have to be careful about how I use them. A bent bit can "walk" when you start your hole and give you an imprecise hole location. That doesn't matter if the location is non-critical. But, you're screwed if you're transferring six holes for a bolt circle from the cylinder head to the cylinder flange of a model steam engine, and the holes don't line up when you're finished.
I hate when a drill bit slips within a chuck & many times, wish that all bits were shanked or whatever the term is called where they are cut like a allen wrench. Though, I could see where someone using a lathe probably wouldn't want them shanked.
Kind of unfair. 316 is finicky using the best tooling. Sometimes hot knife through butter, sometimes a pile of murdered bits laying on the bench and still no hole.
I thought tbe Dewalt where junk out the box suprided to knoe they are German. I bought because of the pilot tip and the flats on shanks i instead of spinning in the chuck i would twist them and bend them. Replaced w/ quality cobalt supplied at work as needed
Dude, I've had the same repeatability on my HF micrometers that I have on my Mitutoyo and Starrett micrometers. Their accurate to within .0002 of my Mitutoyo and Starrett mics. Now you can't say the same for their BS digital mics...but the regular mics work fine.
Michael Lakowski did you see the blue box, it was their digital mics. And even if they are dead nuts they are just mics, not high precision mics. High precision mics go to a decimal place further. I personally like my tesa's and mitutoyo's more than my starrett's. But starrett's are very nice too, just feel different in the hand.
@@chuckphilpot7756 Did you read the last line of my reply? I clearly stated that HF digital mics were BS. I actually taught a class on what too not use from HF. My normal HF standards mics that I use for bs use have a ten-thousands scale with a repeatability on par with my Mit's and Starretts. I like Tesa, but truth be told I don't need them since my box is full in the precision measuring tool dept. What's interesting is that my HF digital indicator is curiously accurate and repeatable, that surprised the hell out of me. I got it do check for disc brake run out, once again I compared it to my Mitutoyo digital indicator and it was within .0003"...so the Mit stays in the realm of machining only now. But if I'm to get back into small production and precise replica consignments again, I have to make sure I have COA and calibration reports, HF stuff isn't gonna make for a good contractor or customer inspection...LOL! I don't mind paying extra for good precision instruments, but for some kick around stuff, I don't mind using HF.
You have to pull the batteries on the HF mics after each use, because the mic will bleed the battery dry after 2 weeks to a month. But they are accurate enough for .002 tolerances. If you drop them, you don't cry. Good for roughing in too.
I've used some of the smaller collections of HF drill bits. Come in a great, durable, portable case at an absurdly cheap price. Never a problem. For my drill press, yeah, i use more expensive bits but I'm more focused on precision with those. For your average DYI, chit, don't break the bank on stuff you are only gonna' use once in a while. Good review!
I bought some ryobi cheap drill bits for $14.00 and broke every single bit trying to drill a step hole in some mild steel. I will never buy Ryobi crap again.
I've been using the HF cobalt set for years, and I've been very happy with them. Still have 100% set, no breakage, no loss.
The cobalt bit set is undoubtedly VERY high end. It was the first product of Harbor Freight's that I would call a "must buy". A coating can be halfassed, but an alloy needs to adhere to guidelines. And they do. I bought it a year or so ago and absolutely LOVE them and recommend them to everyone. Especially if you can pick em up with a 25% off coupon
I bought the cobalt set because of your review. They have been a good set at work for drilling out screws & bolts for extraction. This is why I enjoy your channel,it helps me make informed choices on all kinds of tools.
Thank you for your comment I recommend buying a drill gauge at some point so you can re sharpen them by hand but still get an accurate tip on them Cobalt bits are too expensive to not re sharpen
I am a machinist by trade and I have both sets and they are worth every penny.
Right dude amen baby peace to the man bby got back and tries to whammy it right in there before the end is even close to the trash bin my guy it’s just exceptionally delightful let me tell you. And thanks again for the comment on the content and being the man w/ the plan jet setting to Japan. Make sure to eat your matzah with kangaroo foreskin
Thanks for the video.
My thoughts on the reduced diameter shank, is the 115 pc cobalt is intended for machinists and fabricators, that would typically have easy access to 1/2" chucks. The full size shank will have a higher max torque before slipping than the reduced shank set. So for those with big enough chucks, the full size shank is a feature.
thanks for pointing that out~!
I use the HF cobalt set in my CNC machine. I think I paid $80 or so with the 25% coupon. This is hands down the best price for a complete 130 degree cobalt set that's halfway decent. You won't find anything else close. I run them in titanium mostly and the only ones I've broken have been in titanium and stainless, which is no surprise. The nice part is that you get a complete size set, so as you figure out which ones you really need you can just order multi packs of specific size cobalt bits elsewhere, but you'll always have the complete size set keeping you ready for anything. These bits punch aluminum and mild steel no problem. Infinitely better than generic jobbers.
Just found your channel a few weeks ago. Really enjoy watching your videos. I have a 5 week old and at 2am on the couch holding her your videos make the time go by faster. Keep up the good work!
Thank you new subscriber
Maybe his voice will make the baby go back to sleep 😴
Those Hazard Fright titanium drills are about the only thing I've ever bought there that worked well (at least the first time I used them).
I always learn something from your reviews. I learned a lot in this review. Great job.
Thanks
1/4" DOES NOT EQUAL 6mm. 6.35mm = 1/4"!!!!!!!!!
Also if you are using a reamer you should worry about the run out on your drill chuck, that may be more than the accuracy you'd get using the reamer over a twist drill.
The best deals I ever got were on reamers, $2.00 a pound from the Boeing surplus store. Steel containers the size of pickup truck beds full of reamers and aerospace drill bits, all by the pound, most in visually perfect condition. Actually, come to think of it, I think the reamers and milling cutters were $4.00 a pound, drills $2.00 per. (mid-2000's).
The aerospace drills are still my go-to bits for sizes 1/16 to 3/8. They have a nice reduced diameter pilot on the tip that helps guide the bit for match drilling and to avoid blasting out the back of the hole. Fantastic.
I work for a high tech ceramics company and they had a five gallon bucket full of carbide end mills and reamers that were for the most part in great shape they just gave to me. I think they got them from Boeing or were from some project we did for Boeing. All I know is I got thousands of dollars worth of tooling for free.
Why no demo on how well the cobalt drill's cut????
Or how long they stay sharp, and how easy they break.
Don't use them in a hand drill- only the drill press or lathe or milling machine and they probably won't break unless your rough on stuff. Punch your spot on the material so the bit won't wander and SNAP!
I drives me nuts that almost all manufacturers mark the size where you're going to chuck the drill, one slip and the numbers are gone. I don't understand why they do that instead of marking them closer to the flutes.
Thanks for the interesting review here ( and the one on step drills). I recently started using cobalt bits and wish I’d discovered them sooner! Recently picked up a 13 pc set of M35 bits at Menards for 9.99 on sale, and a 14 pc Bosch M42 set for a bit more. I’ve been able to drill grade 5 and 8 bolt heads now, and safety wire them where needed. I love the 30 pc Micro Bit set from HF too. Very useful. I’m just a hobbyist but I’ve subscribed.
Thanks
As a Millwright, you showed me all I need to see at 5:58 with the tip isn't ground. Can't do thousandths of a inch this way so stick to bits that cost a boat load more! I'm not joking when I say this, The bits will walk about 15 thousandths and ruin your billet. Hoped to save so $ but W. W. Grainger still remains my store!
081723/1543h PST 🇺🇸 That was a good description which is known widely to all. Thank you.
One major and important item that was omitted was, the Bit itself. Are the exhibits CGS OR FPS units? Thanks.
Interesting comparison. Regarding reamers, they're not really "designed to have excellent centering" in the absolute sense. Reamers simply follow the path of the pre-existing hole. They shave a few thousandths off the walls and leave a precise diameter with smooth wall finish, but the path of the hole is based solely on the pre-existing hole. If you want/need to redirect the bore, you need a boring head.
How good are they? If I try drilling a grade 8 bolt, WILL IT DRILL THREW EASILY? I do not yet own a drill press so, I am relegated to using a hand drill, LUCKY ME... Soon hopefully?
Your measurements on the drill diameters may be off because you appear to be tightening the micrometer using the large knurled knob. Using the small knob ensures that the same amount of pressure is placed on the jaws for each measurement. Again, another fine review.
The large knurled knob is a friction thimble on this unit so you tighten down until it starts slipping the little knob on the back is just a speed knob
I tried to drill a hole in a very hard saw blade. My titanium and cobalt bits worked up to 1/8". Anything larger just heated up a bunch with out making much in the way of chips. I ended up using Spade bits e.g. Morse Cutting Tools 50459 Heavy Duty Spade Drill Bits, Solid Carbide, Bright Finish, 118 degree Point, 1/2" Size, $15. These went through the saw blade. The prices on Amazon vary widely over time. I've paid $30 for a 3/8" bit. So you may do way better checking out prices occasionally if you can wait. The spade bits don't have flutes, so they are not supposed to be used very deep. I've found that you can blow out the chips and drill deeper holes. I use them with a drill press (and cutting oil) whenever possible. Happy drilling and don't forget your eye protection!
The harder the material you're drilling the slower RPM you need to run. There's a way to figure out how fast you're supposed to go. You calculate the surface speed of the tool with this formula SFPM = (PI X DIA X RPM) / 12
Thank you. Good to know.@@1pcfred
@@camgere The other part of the equation of course is your target speed. But that varies depending on the tools you're using and the material you're working on. HSS in mild steel for instance is 100 SFPM. That's the base line. Everything else is up and down from there. Harder tools allow for higher speeds and harder materials demand slower speeds. There's speed charts online with all the different tools and materials. But without the surface speed formula none of that is worth much. As an example a 1/2" diameter tool going 400 RPM is 52 surface feet per minute. Which is about right for a harder material. You average pistol hand drill goes about 2,600 RPM. So full out is too fast for a HSS bit. That's why a lot of folks have problems drilling metal. Really a 1/8 bit is about all you can drill in soft steel full out with a hand electric drill and a HSS bit before you have to start slowing things down. But that's not how people operate. They figure steel needs more speed. Then they burn their bits up and wonder why it doesn't work.
Thanks for the example. It looks like I'll be moving the belt on those pulleys on my drill press more in the future. The lowest speed is 600 RPM and the chart next to the pulley says it is for 1/2 inch iron and steel. If I understand correctly, if you double the diameter of the drill you double the surface feet per minute. So I can scale up or down to other drill bit sizes. It's obvious that the more accurate you want to be, the more you need to know about the drill you are using and material you are drilling into. It's hard to get started when you don't know what you don't know. @@1pcfred
I really enjoy these technical videos. Great video
After your point about wobble I went back to confirm if mine were straight by rolling them on my table saw top. Some were better than others but 1/16” bit had a substantial wobble. Almost all had a slight wobble. This is the titanium 29 pc set at Harbor Freight so maybe it’s not the same set. Either way it’s getting tossed for a better set.
Hello Need Your Help Were Do I Get This Drill bits That Or True Titanium and cobalt.
I’d really like to get that 115 piece cobalt set.
Long ago I bought the 115 piece black oxide set off Harbor Freight. I use them for mild steel.
Would a tad undersized leave room for error if your using a drill driver? Just Incase the drill do have some runout, then a reamer could finish it
Ridgid used to sell cobalt set with lifetime guarantee. HD used to swap out broken bits but now they won’t since they don’t carry them
It is never a good idea to try to warranty customer stupidity.
Using cobalt bits in a 3/8" hand drill is really the wrong application and a good way to break them. They are intended for a drill press or similar controlled setting being harder and more brittle. HSS bits will handle lateral stress better than cobalt and will wear better in a hand drill, many buyers don't realize this and blame the quality of the manufacture when they break cobalt bits.
Your vids have saved me time and money, a big thank you.
I thought its been talked about coatings dont really add any benefits other then being able to locate the drill bit.
With drill bit sets, you get what you pay for fella.
great review but you need to drill some 1/2" and 3/4" steel with the bits for a comparison keep up the good work
Review and comparison without drilling a hole?
Total drilling bites price
Most drill bit should be a hair under listed size cause they always drill a bit over nominal. Like you said though a reamer is the right way to get a precision hole.
no drilling?
Very informative. You are well informed on twist drills. Great video. Thank you.
Thanks
Good video, I never thought that I would ever hear the term Premium Korean.
Thank you for your video.
Thanks
The best ones that got that I found or the warrior drill bits and work fine for 20 bucks not junk
Interesting. Thanks for your efforts. Always learn something from your videos.
Thank you
What's the battery life on that micrometer? Thanks.
Not sure all Digital measuring tools seem to have software-based buttons not physical power switches which means there's always a little drain on the battery mean if I don't plan on using the tool for a while I will remove the battery so it doesn't just sit there and drain
To accurately measure a drill bit, never measure the shank. Always measure directly across the narrow cutting edges, not the wide area near the cutting edge. This takes a little practice to get consistent results.
Best way to gauge drill bit abilities is the hole. And they're usually just a hair larger than the bit
We want to know how well they cut!
I will do a comparison performance test soon in stainless steel, mild steel, and 4140 Steel
Good review, about 80% of the holes I drill are simply clearance holes, great accuracy is not required, 5 thou over or under is meaningless, but for say tapping holes then yeah, best be within stated dimensions and tolerances, 'cause you can go from a class 2A fit to a 3A with just a few thou off.
BeachsideHank whats 2A and 3 A fit?
To make a precise hole, spot, drill, stab, ream
I bought the HF 115 piece drill index, but it's been a disappointment. I'm building a model steam engine that requires a fair level of precision. I chucked up a #33 drill in my milling machine and noted that the chisel tip of the bit had visible runout. I thought that I just had not gotten it centered in the Jacob's chuck (very easy to do with smaller bits), so I very carefully re-chucked the bit. No improvement. I laid the bit on my surface plate, back lit it, and rolled it on the plate. The bit had a bow in it! And, that wasn't the only one that was not straight. This seemed to be more of a problem with the smaller numbered bits.
The larger bits seem to dull rather quickly. The 5/16ths inch bit dulled to unusability after only two uses, and I wasn't even using that hard. I was drilling a 5/16ths inch hole in 3/8ths inch mild steel plate using cutting oil, and I had already piloted the holes with a 1/4 inch bit, so the 5/16ths inch bit only had to remove another 1/16 inch of material from the hole.
David Kutzler umm you don't suppose your jacobs chuck was the culprit? lmfao
@@chuckphilpot7756 Hi Chuck, Thank you for taking the time to reply. That was my first thought; but, I chucked up a brand new, high-quality, Irwin, #33 bit and applied a dial test indicator to the unfluted shank. The runout on the indicator was only ± 0.0015 inches. The conclusive evidence was when I laid the problematic Harbor Freight #33 bit on a granite surface plate and rolled it. As I rolled it, the middle of the bit would bow up and down. The bit was clearly bent. Not every bit in the 115 bit HF set was similarly bent, but several of them were.
I'm keeping the HF drill bit set, I just have to be careful about how I use them. A bent bit can "walk" when you start your hole and give you an imprecise hole location. That doesn't matter if the location is non-critical. But, you're screwed if you're transferring six holes for a bolt circle from the cylinder head to the cylinder flange of a model steam engine, and the holes don't line up when you're finished.
Check your rpms.
@@DavidKutzler Titanium or Cobalt set?
I've had a cheap set from Enco tools for ever. They're good for most stuff. I need a good cobalt set for higher grade steel and stainless.
I hate when a drill bit slips within a chuck & many times, wish that all bits were shanked or whatever the term is called where they are cut like a allen wrench. Though, I could see where someone using a lathe probably wouldn't want them shanked.
I've been looking for cobalt bit but I want metric and could never find them. Only TTP hard drills sell them, but a set is costly.
Awesome knowledge going on here
Thank you
Try drilling 316 Stainless Steel and see how good they are
I have that titanium set but I use it mostly on wood, mild metals and steel. For stainless I use carbide bits.
Kind of unfair. 316 is finicky using the best tooling. Sometimes hot knife through butter, sometimes a pile of murdered bits laying on the bench and still no hole.
Good review. Very helpful.
the line on that bit was closer to .012 feedrate.
Thank you for this video! I learned quite a bit!👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
I thought tbe Dewalt where junk out the box suprided to knoe they are German. I bought because of the pilot tip and the flats on shanks i instead of spinning in the chuck i would twist them and bend them. Replaced w/ quality cobalt supplied at work as needed
did he just call a harbor freight digital micrometer a very high precision micrometer? LOL
Dude, I've had the same repeatability on my HF micrometers that I have on my Mitutoyo and Starrett micrometers. Their accurate to within .0002 of my Mitutoyo and Starrett mics. Now you can't say the same for their BS digital mics...but the regular mics work fine.
Michael Lakowski did you see the blue box, it was their digital mics. And even if they are dead nuts they are just mics, not high precision mics. High precision mics go to a decimal place further. I personally like my tesa's and mitutoyo's more than my starrett's. But starrett's are very nice too, just feel different in the hand.
@@chuckphilpot7756 Did you read the last line of my reply? I clearly stated that HF digital mics were BS. I actually taught a class on what too not use from HF. My normal HF standards mics that I use for bs use have a ten-thousands scale with a repeatability on par with my Mit's and Starretts. I like Tesa, but truth be told I don't need them since my box is full in the precision measuring tool dept. What's interesting is that my HF digital indicator is curiously accurate and repeatable, that surprised the hell out of me. I got it do check for disc brake run out, once again I compared it to my Mitutoyo digital indicator and it was within .0003"...so the Mit stays in the realm of machining only now. But if I'm to get back into small production and precise replica consignments again, I have to make sure I have COA and calibration reports, HF stuff isn't gonna make for a good contractor or customer inspection...LOL! I don't mind paying extra for good precision instruments, but for some kick around stuff, I don't mind using HF.
You have to pull the batteries on the HF mics after each use, because the mic will bleed the battery dry after 2 weeks to a month.
But they are accurate enough for .002 tolerances. If you drop them, you don't cry. Good for roughing in too.
Yes, guess he's never seen mititiou.
When it comes to drill bits smaller is better. You can't add material to make the hole smaller unless you plug it and Carroll the hole. :-)
I've used some of the smaller collections of HF drill bits. Come in a great, durable, portable case at an absurdly cheap price. Never a problem. For my drill press, yeah, i use more expensive bits but I'm more focused on precision with those. For your average DYI, chit, don't break the bank on stuff you are only gonna' use once in a while. Good review!
I bought some ryobi cheap drill bits for $14.00 and broke every single bit trying to drill a step hole in some mild steel.
I will never buy Ryobi crap again.
Oh I lets see them tiny drill... 15:02 *OH GOD NO, ZOOM OUT I SAW ENOUGH!*
Junk vs junk.. the winner is junk son!
☝Doesnt own a drill
The cobalt drill bits are a scam, broke on the first hole. I have used the titanium for 2 years now no breaks. I purchased both at the same time.
Metric system rules!
A review of drill bits and not a single hole drilled. Sad.
If you're going to call it Harbor Freight it should have been bought from HARBOR FREIGHT.
You lost me when you said Harbor freight.
You really clicked on a video where it says Harbor Freight in the title to make this stupid comment
@@MoparMadness93 , Ok CEO of Harbor Freight
@@jca65lb that’s your reply? Calling me the ceo of harbor freight? Sadly no I’m not a wealthy ceo