Here's the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! DeWalt HSS (great value): amzn.to/44Exh8u Bosch (my choice for overall value & performance): amzn.to/3XGMWSN Viking (best overall but expensive): amzn.to/3rjj5DI Irwin: amzn.to/3JP7WAZ Drill Hog: amzn.to/46B7Iat Cle-Line: amzn.to/3pEZiOw Comoware: amzn.to/46Jv6CI DeWalt Cobalt: amzn.to/3PQFank LWCUSNJ: amzn.to/3NMDoRl Century Drill & Tool: amzn.to/3XJAstq Somada: amzn.to/3pFnMqW Ryobi Titanium: amzn.to/3rlWcj4 Milwaukee: Available at Home Depot Warrior: Available at Harbor Freight Drill Doctor Drill Bit Sharpener: amzn.to/4b2lx3V
@@eds2825 Scotty Kilmer? The click bait car guy who answers every car related question with "just buy an old Toyota", that guy? That old fool is a clown.
Fuck Scotty. Dude is ignorant as hell or a liar. Stood next to a 10th Gen civic and said they intentionally put a small battery in it to sell more batteries when the battery in the vehicle is the same p/n that's used for that style engine for the last 15 years. @@eds2825
I checked out your masonry drill bit video when I needed to drill into a concrete pad. My old Bosch drill bit gave out after one hole and wouldn't drill any more. So I checked said masonry drill bit video and bought the Milwaukee set that scored so high in your testing. It breezed through the other 15 holes I had to drill and is _still_ good for more. Don't ever stop, man. You rock and your reviews rock.
@@itzikca There's a lot of information to convey, especially as @Project Farm typically is testing quite a lot of products instead of just a few. But it is very consice and clear. There's little to no superfluous information here. It's edited to make the delivery fairly rapid fire to keep the video length down. The consice rapid delivery is what make this channel work and is what enables @Project Farm to review so many products week in week out.
@@meson183I agree his older videos with less editing and slower pace feel like MOLASSES compared to his modern videos and yet nothing of value is cut out and everything is still delivered clearly. Hes really completely optimised it to the best it can be.
Your impartial, scientific testing has shaken industries and helped us not waste money on really what are rip off products. Sincere thanks to you and all you have done for people who can't afford to buy the wrong product they need. Project Farm is my go to for product reviews!
wait wait 5:17 is rust visible straight ftom the box? when I would get drill bits, I’d put money down on Irwin/Bosch. would using an industrial drill press overestimate elapse time? I presume 80% would use a drill motor ? would you also include Harbor Freight & Craftsman Tools in future tests? ❤ these test, thank you Very Impressive
@@98167you can't beat chinese M35 cobalt drill sets for their price. I've used those for years. Only metric as far as I know though. A set of 25 pieces from 1-13mm costs under 30€ including shipping and VAT on a good day. So 1/3-1/4 the cost the same drills would cost in the local cheapo store.
I live in a small scandinavian country called Denmark. And every single person here I've pointed towards your channel, are VERY impressed, like myself. I can't help thinking of you as The Duracell Man - in the most positive way! Thanks for all the thorough and very informative and helpful videos
Thank you again. I drill a lot of holes in mild and hardened steel. The Bosch hold up great and good for the price. Most of the drilling is not on a press, but on our machines, we build. Century, viking, and some of the other brands you tested are also ones we use. What we really need is a good quality sharpener. I've only been in this company for 3 years, and little by little I've managed to convince the shop manager that tool maintenance saves money. It also improves productivity and work quality. I'm the oldest guy in the shop at 65 and plan to retire in a couple of years. I would love to leave this shop in better shape than I found it. Have a wonderful, warm day. And keep on doing the best tools reviews anywhere.
I value the experience of older people. I hope your leadership respects your 65 years of experience. I agree with you, maintenance is more cost-effective than just buying a lot of new bits.
@@johnnysimes5082 It depends... In my younger days I worked for a machine shop for about 6 months, and we used tons and tons of drill bits, in various sizes, and also thread cutting taps. The company bought them directly from the manufacturer in Germany, and they only paid a fraction of the price that a normal person would have to pay, because they bought them in bulk, like thousands and thousands of drill bits and taps at a time, and they saved about 90% on the retail prices - it would not have been economically viable to have someone employed to re-sharpen the drills.
At my job we have an old Darex SP2500 drill sharpener, that thing is great. A perfectly sharp drill with a perfect split point every single time in no time at all. The newer Darex machines are expensive, but they last forever. So that might be something to look at. Also, I'm with the other guy: every shop needs a greybeard. The guy that taught me to machine passed away unexpectedly only half a year after I started. I can get a lot done on my own, but there's just no substitute for the kind of experience someone like that brings to the table. Wish he was still around.
It's a pleasure to "meet" someone who cares about their place of employment and wants to leave it "in better shape than I found it". I'm sure you will be missed when you retire.
I'm a steel fabricator I do a lot of drilling mitering machine operating and Welding so drill bits are essential. And I can tell you what I like the most are Kobalts Titanium coated and Bosch M42 Cobalt bits. Thats whats in my work toolbox. Steel Aluminum Stainless and even 1- 1.5" cold-roll and stress proof Steel. So I am very very very very very glad to watch this. Because in my world drill bits that aren't good cost me a lot so getting great drill bits not only help productivity but pay for themselves plus interest.
I am a fan of Drillhog and Viking. Nothing can compare to either brand out of a big box store and both are USA made. Worth the cost IMO as you can sharpen them occasionally and they hold up as long as you don't smoke them with too much heat. Using them day to day and holding an edge after being sharpened for a long time is my gauge of quality. Nothing like cheap drill bits to have me cussing in the garage. 🤣
@@hgbugalou Amen to that.. that's why I keep Kobalt titanium coated for mild steel and aluminum. But I keep Bosch m42 for everything else. I have bought one box of each in the past year and I have not had to go out and buy drill bits in that year. And I can tell you I have probably drilled well over a thousand holes easily.. I work for a company (To Witch is the only company in the world that does this) that makes concession trailers foldable bleachers 10 /12 /15 row an 8 row and stages(3 different types) All portable by good size regular Truck an can be operated by 1 person... I make 90% of all the parts for all of them. Taking out water jet, plasma table, sheer(witch I use) and Break press. So drill bits are essential to my livelihood.
@@ProjectFarm Thanks PF.. I want you to know a lot of what's in my toolbox at work is from watching your Channel as well as personal experience.. you have made a lot of people a lot more knowledgeable and a lot better at the things they do. That is something this world needs more than anything and I am happy to support you in any way that I am able
As a serious DIYer these videos are among the most helpful on UA-cam. Suggest tests to settle which brands’ brushless lines are worth the upgrade over brushed power tools and which brands are not. Look forward to the next vid!
Some companies out there have absolutely amazing marketing teams with subpar products. Thank you for cutting through all the BS in your reviews and not being part of the “sponsored” crowd that pushes whatever company is supporting them. Always like when you do new reviews every 2-3 years on products to test new brands or see of old brands changed. Keep up the great work!!
I like that you are revisiting older videos as well as the added commentary. You've been doing testing for a long time so your opinion is valid. As always great work.
I work at viking drill and tool here in MN (also live in walking distance from the factory LOL) and had no idea this video had covered our brand. Glad to see we are producing top notch stuff though. GREAT company by the way they are an ESOP and treat their workers well in my opinion.
The comments by the faithful speak volumes. Sir, I have been a faithful follower of Project Farm since you started up. I absolutely love the ingenious jigs, tools & other paraphernalia that you cobble together to test things, while avoiding errors. Your work around errors mechanisms should be mandatory teaching in college/schools that are training engineers. I always have been & still am an admirer of your ingenious testing techniques. I hope that you make a very good income from your site......you well deserve it !
I do very little DIY and very rarely buy tools... but the last 2 years of watching every single thing i would ever need to purchase as a Dad who needs do get a job done and has made sure i haven't thrown money at a product for no reason. The last 5 tools ive purchased have come from watching these videos... and i wasn't told what to buy. I saw tests,graphs and tables and was left to decide for myself. Also I can now talk tools with nearly every tradesman ... massive Pub chat winner. Love the content,i can't wait to see what the best *insert tool i may need at some point is.
This guy does a lot of testing for us he doesnt get the respect. He shoukd review automotive durability because i like his closer attention to the details he actually painstakingly crunches the data
I'd love to see you review methods of joining automotive wires. E.g solder and heat shrink, twist and tape together, butt connectors, spade terminals and the new heat shrink with low temperature solder inside. You could test time to use, current handling ( resistance, do they heat up under heavy load) strength when pulled, external heat resistance etc. Thanks for the great content
I love to see it when expensive brands are taken down by less expensive brands but that did not seem to be the case here... with the exception of the Century Cobalt which still did not finish last. This is a great guide for purchasing a common use item because if someone is or is not planning on drilling hardened steel, they can choose the best fit for their toolbox. Thanks for another great one!
If the older me could go back to the younger me and tell myself "pay the piper and get a good set of bits" I'd have more money in my pocket. Cutting tools are one of those deals where you really get your money's worth. But it's also important to know how to drill. High speed in metal = dead bit. Slow, steady, and quite a bit of force is the way to go.
I worked for an irrigation company for 20 years. Having worked in several departments, I was in sales when the company was purchased and moved in 1982. The new company, being 'smarter' than the original company, decided to use imported .125" drills for orifices in 'Navy Brass' which had to be burr free. The imported drills would typically make 100 to 125 holes before becoming unusable as opposed to several hundred holes when using the more expensive "Cleveland Twist Drills" as used by the original company. I was asked how to extend the life of the imported drills. After consulting with a machinist friend, I sent the drills to a "Cryogenic" lab where they were 'heat treated' at -420 degrees below 0 degrees F. After treatment, the drills produced a clean orifice with a life of several hundred cycles. Hopefully this story is interesting and informative. I truly enjoy your videos, Thank You.
Cryo treatment just fully converts the existing Martensite? to harder compounds. Itll greatly increase the wear resistance but also make the bits more brittle/less forgiving to off axis loads. I thought you were about to tell management, "Yeah I have a great idea how to extend the life of the drill bits to several times these.... BUY THE OLD ONES YOU NONCE" 😂
That is interesting. I have seen several times the scenario where the new company is less competent but more convinced of their superiority. Were you hand drilling? What is navy brass vs regular brass?
I purchased the Drill Doctor sharpener and sharpened all of my dull drill bits. Now I'm good for the next 20 years, just touch them up when they need it. Thanks again for another detailed comparison!
The drill doctor isn't that great. You can do much better hand grinding with a bit of practice. It's worth practicing as you can then create many formed tools.
@@falsedragon33 I agree it has some shortcomings. That said, for the guy who doesn't own a grinder, this unit is decent and fairly easy to use. Ftr, I do get a very good edge on my drills and they been holing up well to my abuses.
I have the same Bosch set as well. They are my go-to set for drilling metal. I use the DeWalt HSS set for wood and other materials, and they work fine.
I like that you showed off the LW's performance after sharpening! Even if it didn't produce any usable data regarding the bit's performance, it's a great example of how important bit sharpeners can be!
It must’ve left the factory with a poor sharpening job or the angles were not correct. It makes all the difference, and the tests show that. That drill bit brand just needs some better tempering and metallurgical work. So brittle.
No major news outlet has ever provided as useful information as this mans youtube channel he films in his work shed. That speaks volumes to the legacy news legitimacy.
It would have been cool to see all the bits sharpened and retested. It would help determine what's more important in drill bit performance: material or sharpness. It could also reveal if it's worth spending your money on a nicer bit sharpener rather than buying nicer bits up front. Thanks for all your work.
@@ContraVsGigiif you are using a belt sander grind the flat with the flat part and grind the curved part with the rounded over part at the very front. If you're hand filing, using a flat file and a round file should do the trick.
MANY off brand drill bits will perform totally different. I used to buy CHEAP HSS and solid cobalt bits, when they were pretty much all USA made... Hanson-Ace, Century, and many others.... They immediately got resharpened before putting into service, as they were optimized for production speed, not performance. I think they are getting a bit better, even if most are from China, to give good, if not optimal performance. Drill Doctor will make drill bits last until they are too short to use anymore. Even one that snaps at the tip, can be rejuvenated. Just do not let it cook to cherry red on a bench grinder. Keep it cool.... get shape close to proper, and finish on Drill Doctor.@@ProjectFarm
@@ContraVsGigiyou take a grinder and knock those special nubs off of them and sharpen them like a regular drill bit. That drill Dr. Will make a drill bit out of anything.
For me, I get excited seeing the difference between the big buck pro tools you test, and the HF junk I usually end up buying. It’s the best part of your videos - identifying on what things you “get what you pay for” and what things you dont. Thumbs up!
Thanks for always doing these unbiased reviews... But you left out the best brand I have found at Lowe's... Spyder Drill Bits. A couple of years ago we were putting new flooring into a toy hauler. I couldn't get self tappers to go in the beans, and so we decided to drill them. Every single drill bit would break. We went to Lowe's and bought multiple sets. Finally, we bought these funky blue gimmicky looking bits. Go back to the shop and started drilling. Finally, we got 1 hole drilled and it didn't snap. Success... Kept drilling and drilled the entire floor with that one single bit. I have been a fan since then. So idk if it was just stronger, or if it would compete drilling speed wise as well with these.
I bought that set years ago based on that video. Glad to see it’s still recommended. Truth is, I don’t drill through metal that much as I’m a woodworker but I have proper wood bits for that. The Bosch have been able to do anything I’ve asked. They work a lot better in a drill press though as it can be hard to generate the downward pressure with a hand drill.
I use that same set of Bosch out here in the oilfields in West Texas. They have performed flawlessly, even though I do not have any need for them to drill ultra-hard materials. I also use Drill Hog's Premium Pig Steel and Niobium-steel drill bits as well. I'm glad I'm getting my money's worth.
My grandfather worked and retired from Cleveland Twist Drill. He passed away a little over a month ago. But I still use the bits that he got from there. They are definitely a quality American made bit. Thanks for the video as always!
Indeed they are. That kind of quality is something we took for granted until modern times. Never would have thought that it would become common to get entire sets or packs that were not properly sharpened. The one in this test that wouldn't cut is a common example.
@@ronfox5519 what you're experiencing is called survivor bias. What's good tends to outlast what's not good. That can give one a false impression that everything in the past must have been good because that's all that remains today. But they had garbage dumps in the past and they used them. If something was real junk it got junked. The good stuff they tended to hang onto more. Every now and again some real trash does manage to survive though and I've seen it and even have some of it. Like a set of Made in Japan twist drills that get dull drilling soft wood. The steel in them is just that bad. You could tie those bits in knots. Truly horrible stuff.
A tip for anyone new to using drill presses... when you chuck up a drill but, especially one with a round shank, tighten the chuck up, and then rotate the chuck and tighten it even more with a second hole. Finally, rotate it to the 3rd home and tighten it even further. You will get a supremely tight grip on the bit. I was told this by an old timer many years ago, and I tried it, and was astounded by how effective it is. It became a lifetime habit.
@@alextheonewarrior 1/32", 1/64" bits break easy. looking at them might break them. thinking he's talking about those. now i'm a woodworker that'll split logs, mill them to workable wood in my shop, and make a jewelry box out of logs i get. some, well all the wood i use for said projects are very hard woods. add that to fine hardware, hinges for doors for example, the screws are brass or stainless steel, and very VERY tiny, i need an 'eyeglass screwdriver kit to put them in, soft metal that the wood alone will wear the threads right off the screws. and have to have pilot holes drilled. i use irwin bits because when one breaks, they're cheap to replace. but still good and long lasting.
I've broken only a few small-diameter bits (1-3mm). I've dulled a lot more because I'm an idiot as far as drilling metals is concerned and don't have a drill-press.
Lol...I've had some Chinese made bits (gifts) actually completely unwind instead of breaking 😀 Best option is still to buy individual bit sizes in packs from a reliable supplier to production machine shops--they are usually an order of magnitude better than most "homeowner" brand bits.
@@alextheonewarrior Breaking bits usually happens when you put radial load on them, drill bits are very hard but brittle, so instead of bending they just snap. So JC likely is pushing at an angle when drilling.
I used to buy HSS bits over and over and over, until I discovered M35 Cobalt drill bits. Never been happier in my whole life! It's like discovering magic. Managed to fix my car after weeks of wasting time with HSS bits quickly dulling out on a work-hardened snapped bolt that I couldn't drill out. M35 ate it up, spat it out, then ate more and spat that out. Like a hot knife through butter!
@@deeeeeepsit's just what the data says man. You can replace the set a number of times before touching the pricey sets. It's a cost benefit analysis for your use case
I would like to see you take the top 6 brands and run them all through the drill doctor and then run the exact same test again. That way, you could eliminate the factory sharpening variables and just test the metallurgy of the drill bits.
Time will tell. I have a jar of aerospace surplus TRW cobalt bits I got in the '80's. They've been heavily used and resharpened many times. By far, the best bits I've ever used.
The dewalt pilot points really shine when drilling thin metals. They will produce a nice round hole with minimal burr, so i just use them just for that as I have no way to resharpen them as a pilot point. For thicker or harder to drill metal i have an old set of craftsman split point cobalts that i use. I have some cheapie bright finish 118 degree drills i use for the household soft stuff.
2:31 THAT tip is what I made way back in the mid 1970s. Also revamped other tooling for the better. We had an issue drilling oil holes in our largest diesel crankshafts. The drilling distance was over 1 foot through journal, main & journal (JMJ) where it took just under 3 drill bits to complete. I created that 'pilot bit' and gave it to the oil hole machine (bit size was around 3/8"). Tho he was skeptical he was surprised it drilled through one JMJ then partly through the next. Overall it saved the driller bit changing time and upped his production. THE REALLY ODD THING is, next day when the machine shop seen what I did, they wanted me fired. Well in a year that engine division of A.C. was having $$ issues then became Fiat-Allis. IF ONLY that company took to heart at least a few of my ideas & concepts that engine division could have stayed and kept workers jobs. When they moved south everyone was asked to stay on but me. ya...their loss. (smh) OH! That pilot bit came to market just over 2 years later. If they didn't OVER PRICE it, everyone would have one of the best & fasted drilling bits ever made. Todd, several years ago, that was the drill bit I wanted you to test against all others you've tested on this channel.
You answered a question that I 100% didn’t expect on this video. We bought a wood shop full of contents, everything from a lathe, table saw, drill press, router, to screws and glue. I haven’t even had time to fully sort and place items. Bought it primarily for the lathe, everything else was gravy. Anyway those drill press plate weights were a total mystery to me! I am so excited to get that answer without even asking. I knew they went with the drill press, they “matched” in color/metal but past that I had no idea.
Another awesome video! Drill bits are an item that isn't always needed, but having a crappy one in a time of need can really be a frustrating issue. Even more annoying is searching through a random assortment and not finding the size you need. Thanks for your tireless work Todd in saving us time and money for our projects!
Another great test! If you are up for it, I would love to see a snow shovel test. I am tired of buying shovels for them to break one month into winter! Durability, Weight, Leverage Advantage, and Ergonomics (subjective) would be great to see tested.
You did an awesome job last week testing water bottles. Could you do something similar by testing vacuum bottles? Thanks for all you do helping us to spend our money wisely. Keep up the great work.
I had a project a few years ago that required drilling through some pretty gnarly stainless steel. After ruining several bits with nothing to show I resorted to ragged holes with a plasma cutter. I then proceeded to do a bunch of research and in the end bought a complete set of high-end bits. I still keep boxes of the Dewalt HSS bits on hand for most projects. They are inexpensive and work well for most things and i don't fret when I ruin one. As for the high-end bits, I ended up with a complete set of Drill Hog bits. When I say complete I mean complete. They sell a 123 piece set that contains every size fraction bit you could ask for as well as Letter sizes (A-Z) and Number sizes(1-60 wire gauge). Drill Hog makes this set in a high molybdenum bit that will chew through just about anything you can imagine. Expensive, yes. But heres the trick. Even though this set retails for $1000 Drill Hog almost always has it on sale at their website. As of the writing of this comment that $1000 set is on sale for less than $400. Yes $400 is still a lot of money but you will have every size bit you will ever need in a high quality, USA made bit that will drill any hole you ask of it. And Drill Hog has a lifetime gaurantee to the original purchaser of the bits so no need to fret if one gets broken. I think a one-time purchase to eliminate a lifetime of drilling headaches is worth $400. And you still have those cheap Dewalt bits around to a use on things that aren't critical jobs.
Specifically reading thru comments for stainless steel references as I couldn’t get through tiny SS 1/8th thick bracket with any of numerous random bits. Likely buying the Spyder Stinger Mach-Blue 10-Piece Assorted High-speed Steel bits from Lowe’s today since daily deal is $10 off for $29.98 price. Any experience with those? I wish @ProjectFarm had tested those or maybe does a Stainless based test later on.
@@8m617 I think PF should do a test of drilling stainless, too. It's different than hardened steel. If you don't have a drill press or mag-base drill, it's very difficult to keep the proper drill pressure for stainless no matter how good your bit is.
@@nemodetroit hey nemo, any other tips regarding stainless for a newbie as those 1/8th SS brackets humbled me good. I did buy the Mach Blue spider stingers months ago but they are in the drawer until this fall when I attempt the brackets again lol. I did buy a neighbors drill press recently and I’ve never used one before, but I’ll make it a point to break it in with the items I just mentioned just based on your comment. Constant even pressure and cutting oil help me? or is it just keeping the bit super straight via the drill press that’s the trick? Thx for any advice.
@@8m617 I'm not a machinist, but have drilled a decent amount of SS on the advice of some actual machinists. It's actually more the higher and constant pressure that a drill press (or mill) can deliver, rather than keeping a bill "straight". If you let off the pressure (which is almost inevitable with a handheld drill), the bit can rub, which heats up and work hardens the SS, making it much harder to then punch through. It's difficult to accomplish that with a handheld drill. The bit needs to be biting in and cutting the whole time. High pressure and slow(er) RPM speed seems to work for me on a drill press. A good cobalt bit definitely helps, too.
Great to see the repeat tests - I buy a bit not for one hole, but for many so seeing the difference in longevity was instructive. Really interesting seeing so much variability in the same geometry and metallurgy, e.g. M42, I guess this means the machining, hardening and tempering process is at least as important as the alloy used. Thank so much for doing this test - I have been keenly waiting for it.
Thanks for doing this second twist drill review Todd! Love it! 💪 I’m so glad you tested twice in spring steel as it sure makes a difference after just one hole’s worth of wear. I’ve bought several of these sets based off your video 3 years ago, and now I’ll go grab a Bosch and Dewalt cobalt set for my lathe when I need to still hardened steel. Thank you!! 🎉💪
Great job with the test. For home use many of these are fine. I am a retired tool maker and on the job Viking was the best by far. I could drill so many more holes with out resharpening. In a job scenario time is money and it is worth the price and the company did supply the drills and other cutting tools. At home I use what every I have since most times it is hanging something on the walls of the house and you do not care if it takes an extra minute or two.
@@adamjames1375 Besides the cordless drills I have the main heavy duty corded hand drill I have is a Milwaukee Magnum Hole Shooter. It's a beast and a real work horse.
@@Finnegan6674 I'm very familiar with the Magnum, they're my favorite corded drill. Best trigger response & nice low r.p.m. One of the few "now made in China" tools that's still excellent. I work primarily in the field doing carpentry/construction so cordless is king out there. Within the last 5 years or so the cordless "pro" model drills have gotten so incredibly strong that I couldn't tell you the last time I used/needed a corded drill. I can run 6" hole saws through any timber (tripled up 2"x/sheeted, double LVL, e.t.c...) & it'll turn a 5 gal bucket of mud without getting hot. A trick on cordless drill drivers can be to set the drill chuck to "screw" and set to its' highest number allowing the chuck to slip. Most often user input & a brace is far superior, but if you're on a "pick" in the wind, or crammed in some godless crevice, where if the drill gets away from ya, you're going to have just successfully installed yourself a set of Summer Teeth...it's a viable solution. I also often drill steel (beams, columns, posts, e.t.c.) anywhere from 1/4"-3/8" pilot & ream to size. ... Any techniques/equipment you'd reccomend for a carpentry/construction outfit to sharpen 135° split point cobalt twist drill bits?
Always nice to see my own empirical experiences and opinions validated by your testing. I love my various Viking drill bits (particularly the 115-piece Magnum set) and use them on the tougher metals and when I drill for tapping but when I know I will be hard on the drill bit, I use the major brand names (Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt) made overseas (mostly) and purchased at a big box store. Thank you for another great test and video!!
I'm just the opposite. I don't want to sacrifice my good drills on spring steel! I don't mind dulling them because I have a sharpener, but I don't want to snap my good drills! My Warrior M35 usually come through without a scratch.
Real HSS makes a difference, the DeWalt probably uses genuine HSS. Lots of the drills falsely claim to be HSS and they're just cheap carbon steel alloy.
Excellent, as always. I would like to see a quick change drill bit showdown. I purchased a few brands with the 1/4" hex for which change or magnetic bit holders. Some easily spun out as they only had a pressed, friction fit, while others were the same, but then crimped. And then there are the forged/machined 1/4" hex bits. Not all are equally good nor centered!
Another great video. Repeated drilling through hard material is what separates the rock stars from the groupies, and you demonstrated that well here. I'm surprised at the DeWalt and the Bosch sets, they should be fine for most household use.
I've been involved in machining for 45+ years, they're the set I would purchase. Reasonable price, quality steel Huot case, appeared to suffer the least damage, made in USA by Cleveland Twist Drill, and are traditional 135° split-point so they don't walk as much and can be re-sharpened on my Black Diamond drill grinder. One aspect that wasn't covered was accuracy of the hole size. As the lips get damaged they will start pulling the bit off-center causing a poorer surface finish and a larger hole. I was also disappointed that one of my personal favorite manufacturers Chicago Latrobe weren't represented in this test. I have a C-L #1-80 drill index I've been using in my shop for 40 years on mostly mild steels and some 4140 and O1 tool steels. They've held up remarkably well, I've rarely needed to re-sharpen them. I've always use Rapid Tap cutting oil anytime I'm drilling steels (A1 on alum) which reduces drilling forces and greatly extends the life of the drill bit.
@@marcseclecticstuff9497 nowadays, the same company owns Cleveland, Cle-Line, and Chicago Latrobe. They're all functionally identical, and they all use the same lovely Huot cases. I started off my machining hobby with a set of Chicago Latrobe drills and didn't know how good I had it until I made the mistake of getting one of those godforsaken no-name import number/letter/fractional drill size kits. After I ruined at least 3 projects, I replaced it with the equivalent Chicago Latrobe kit, and the 3x price increase was well worth it. All this to say, it seems like the corporate merger of those three brands doesn't seem to have ruined the quality of them. Always nice when that happens.
@@marcseclecticstuff9497Yep! The holes have visible tool markings in just about all of them . When drilling metal cutting fluid should be uses more often then just a drop on the metal. That is the reason most production machines regardless of type have coolant tanks/sumps and pumps to ensure tool life.
@@danielbackley9301 Production demands are actually very different. The coolant certainly does provide some lubrication, but it serves 2 more important functions. First, it's for cooling the tooling. As the tool gets hotter it expands. If you have a big boring bar on a finish cut and it's really hot, you'll oversize the bore. This is also the reason why most CNC machine centers circulate oil around the outside of the spindle and run it thru a chiller to try to keep the spindle at a constant temperature. Some machines even use a chiller on the ball screw bearing blocks to keep their temperatures stable. Secondly, and more importantly in some cases, is chip evacuation. When drilling deep holes you have to keep the chips flushed out of the hole. If they pack around the drill it will start galling the inside of the hole and left unchecked will cause the tool to seize inside the bore and breaking the tool. Most of our machines have thru-coolant spindles with high pressure coolant pumps that feed them. Ours are typically set to 1000psi with the smallest tools, bigger tools with more or larger passages causes the pressure to drop down proportionately. We run a lot of gun drills, some as deep as 24" or so and if the thru-coolant fails, they will quickly start to gall and seize. Most modern production coolants use synthetic oils that emulsify in water and look like watery milk. It's nasty stuff for most plastics and rubbers. Plastics tend to get brittle and crack, rubbers suck it up like a sponge, expand, and turn into goo. I had a current probe attachment for my meter that sat in my toolbox that started cracking and falling apart after about 10 years. I'm very good about cleaning all my tools, especially my expensive test gear and it made no difference. Even being in my box in the maintenance department there is still enough coolant mist floating around to affect it. In my home shop I've never used coolant - too much of a PITA to deal with and I'm simply not in a big hurry to do things. For instance, if I'm drilling a deep hole I simply withdraw the drill constantly to clear the chips. If I'm doing something that needs a high degree of precision, I make sure I let the part cool down before making a finishing cut to size. I've used Rapid Tap for the 40+ years I've been whittling metal at home, it's served me well. Not only does it reduce wear in tooling, it also reduces cutting loads. Try drilling a 1/2" hole in steel dry, then drill another using a good quality cutting fluid and the difference in feed pressure is quite noticeable. For tapping I prefer a dark cutting oil with a high sulfur content. Unfortunately, the stuff I've tried in the past 20 years just doesn't work nearly as well as the stuff I used to get in the late 70's and 80's so I just use Rapid Tap now. At work they stock Cimtap which I never really cared for. It's very sticky so it stays on the tool, but it also sticks to the ways of the machine, collects fines and they get drug under the wipers and trash the machine ways. Not an issue for true machinists who would keep the ways cleaned off, but in a factory full of Bubba's that are too lazy to wipe their own a$$, it's a machine death sentence.
Excellent video and review as usual. I deal with hardened steels often so Viking was a brand I started using years ago. it is good to see it compares well even if it is expensive. I've heard others mentioned drill hog favorably and it did so in your testing as well. Glad you continue finding things to test and have kept the channel close to its initial start/roots.
A big factor on drill bit life is spindle run out and work holding. If you have poor runout or your work is flapping around it won't last as long. Carbide is king in a rigid set up. HSS is best for poor runout/workholding.
I'd love to see a comparison between "recovery boards" for getting your vehicle unstuck. Maxtrax seems to be the market leader, but I'm curious how the cheaper (Amazon) boards compare.
Watching this I realize I own some very expensive drill bits from the 80s, have a huge collection from the oil rig days, can't wait to sharpen all 400 of them with my Drill Doctor, your reviews simply rock man...
I love these tests and I appreciate the time you take to do them. At the same time I find differences of a couple percentage points or a few seconds to be negligible in the overall scheme of things.
I am glad you added some industrial grade drills to this review. I have a set of industrial grade I bought for the company price when I worked in manufacturing. Even though they are abused and run in a hand drill, I’ve yet to need to replace a drill and they’re primarily used to drill out bolts…
I like this guy from 10000KM ( although I can not find most of the unit what he is testing) . He is speaking like a machine gun but still very clear to understand as non-native speaker. He definitely likes his job. That makes us keep coming back here :-) this channel deserve what they are earning through youtube ads etc ( hope not from product promotions :-)) )
Great test as always. Thank you. One suggestion though: for apples to apples price comparison, it might be more helpful to give price PER BIT instead of the pack, as the number of bits in each pack varies greatly.
Haven't seen the vid yet, but in my experience in the UK it just makes sense to buy drills and tools from a proper engineering supplier. Much cheaper and higher quality than the stuff builders use. And people need to learn how to sharpen drills so that they last, especially for builders who can get away with a rough regrind.
As a mechanic for many years I have found most made in USA bits do a pretty good job. It's nice to find that some less expensive one can do an acceptable job. Also lubrication and speed and temp can all be factors in cutting speed and longevity
Looking forward to meeting you and everyone else that's there! I'll be loading up the vehicle with several items from past videos for a raffle too. Very nice knife sharpener, torque wrench, tool set, very nice super capacitor jump starter and more!
You at Matt's Offroad games?? Awesome sir, glad you were invited and are going! I suggested you and I hope my suggestion was one of the tipping points for them to invite you!
Hey Project Farm, I think that if you're going to do torque testing, you should come up with a test rig that keeps the torsion completely in-plane so it doesn't become shear or bending moment on the drill bits or other long, slender shapes. It doesn't take much to offset the load in ways they're not meant to handle (or at least, ways that you're aiming to test), and that can make your tests less consistent.
Dewalt makes some damn good drill bits for their price, as someone who has the exact same dewalt kit you are using they are my go to drill bits. For reference I have some old unlabeled kits from family members, 3 ryobi sets, 2 Milwaukee sets, a crescent set, a Makita set, an Irwin set, and a Bosch set.
I'm sure its already on the to-do list, but a show down of flatware/silverware would be really cool to see. Really difficult to find a set that doesn't rust, they also can be incredibly expensive.
@@ProjectFarm Just off the top of my head: Balance, fit (do they fit a man's hand, or are they narrow and delicate?), can you scrape a scoop of ice cream with the spoon? Will the table knife cut a rib eye? (See, now you can cook steaks eat ice cream and charge if off to your business😁). Grade of stainless, weight, country of origin.
Here's the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
DeWalt HSS (great value): amzn.to/44Exh8u
Bosch (my choice for overall value & performance): amzn.to/3XGMWSN
Viking (best overall but expensive): amzn.to/3rjj5DI
Irwin: amzn.to/3JP7WAZ
Drill Hog: amzn.to/46B7Iat
Cle-Line: amzn.to/3pEZiOw
Comoware: amzn.to/46Jv6CI
DeWalt Cobalt: amzn.to/3PQFank
LWCUSNJ: amzn.to/3NMDoRl
Century Drill & Tool: amzn.to/3XJAstq
Somada: amzn.to/3pFnMqW
Ryobi Titanium: amzn.to/3rlWcj4
Milwaukee: Available at Home Depot
Warrior: Available at Harbor Freight
Drill Doctor Drill Bit Sharpener: amzn.to/4b2lx3V
Please test outdoor TV s
The only person who does reviews that hasn’t sold out. I salute your integrity brother!
Nutnfancy too, but he's been demonitized.
Scotty Kilmer?
@@eds2825 Scotty Kilmer? The click bait car guy who answers every car related question with "just buy an old Toyota", that guy? That old fool is a clown.
Fuck Scotty. Dude is ignorant as hell or a liar. Stood next to a 10th Gen civic and said they intentionally put a small battery in it to sell more batteries when the battery in the vehicle is the same p/n that's used for that style engine for the last 15 years. @@eds2825
@@ant0n0vich yeah he's no different than any other shameless, cringe clickbait channel
this guy is legitimately one of the most important channels on youtube. Love these videos
Thanks!
Agreed
When it comes to tool and product reviews there is none better. The scoring system lays it all on the table, no guessing or ambiguity.
100%
I don’t buy any tools without checking PROJECT FARM first!!! One of my favorite channels. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
same- need an app though !! i would pay $10-$15 /y for the app even
Same here
One of youtube's most important consumer channels. I really enjoy watching these!! Thank you!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Never change PF. The unbiased testing honest results are priceless. Does a lot of good for buyers and companies improving products.
Thanks!
I love him, I just hope he talks slower to his wife.
@@jakester455Dude is all about efficiency.
@@ProjectFarm Corded and cordless heat gun tests needed.
I checked out your masonry drill bit video when I needed to drill into a concrete pad. My old Bosch drill bit gave out after one hole and wouldn't drill any more. So I checked said masonry drill bit video and bought the Milwaukee set that scored so high in your testing. It breezed through the other 15 holes I had to drill and is _still_ good for more.
Don't ever stop, man. You rock and your reviews rock.
I really like the concept of this channel but i cant help feeling overwhelmed when i hear him talking 😅 anyone else?
@@itzikca nah its just you. you can set the speed slider to 0.75x if you are having difficulty.
@@itzikca There's a lot of information to convey, especially as @Project Farm typically is testing quite a lot of products instead of just a few. But it is very consice and clear. There's little to no superfluous information here. It's edited to make the delivery fairly rapid fire to keep the video length down.
The consice rapid delivery is what make this channel work and is what enables @Project Farm to review so many products week in week out.
@@meson183I agree his older videos with less editing and slower pace feel like MOLASSES compared to his modern videos and yet nothing of value is cut out and everything is still delivered clearly.
Hes really completely optimised it to the best it can be.
Did the same…. This dude is a science beast
Your impartial, scientific testing has shaken industries and helped us not waste money on really what are rip off products. Sincere thanks to you and all you have done for people who can't afford to buy the wrong product they need. Project Farm is my go to for product reviews!
wait wait 5:17 is rust visible straight ftom the box? when I would get drill bits, I’d put money down on Irwin/Bosch. would using an industrial drill press overestimate elapse time? I presume 80% would use a drill motor ?
would you also include Harbor Freight & Craftsman Tools in future tests?
❤ these test, thank you Very Impressive
@@98167you can't beat chinese M35 cobalt drill sets for their price. I've used those for years. Only metric as far as I know though. A set of 25 pieces from 1-13mm costs under 30€ including shipping and VAT on a good day. So 1/3-1/4 the cost the same drills would cost in the local cheapo store.
I live in a small scandinavian country called Denmark. And every single person here I've pointed towards your channel, are VERY impressed, like myself. I can't help thinking of you as The Duracell Man - in the most positive way! Thanks for all the thorough and very informative and helpful videos
Thanks so much!
Denmark 🇩🇰? Never heard of it, lol.
I'm from the UK and I also see Duracell Man
Hi clog nation
Thank you again. I drill a lot of holes in mild and hardened steel. The Bosch hold up great and good for the price. Most of the drilling is not on a press, but on our machines, we build. Century, viking, and some of the other brands you tested are also ones we use. What we really need is a good quality sharpener. I've only been in this company for 3 years, and little by little I've managed to convince the shop manager that tool maintenance saves money. It also improves productivity and work quality. I'm the oldest guy in the shop at 65 and plan to retire in a couple of years. I would love to leave this shop in better shape than I found it. Have a wonderful, warm day. And keep on doing the best tools reviews anywhere.
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the feedback.
I value the experience of older people. I hope your leadership respects your 65 years of experience. I agree with you, maintenance is more cost-effective than just buying a lot of new bits.
@@johnnysimes5082 It depends... In my younger days I worked for a machine shop for about 6 months, and we used tons and tons of drill bits, in various sizes, and also thread cutting taps. The company bought them directly from the manufacturer in Germany, and they only paid a fraction of the price that a normal person would have to pay, because they bought them in bulk, like thousands and thousands of drill bits and taps at a time, and they saved about 90% on the retail prices - it would not have been economically viable to have someone employed to re-sharpen the drills.
At my job we have an old Darex SP2500 drill sharpener, that thing is great. A perfectly sharp drill with a perfect split point every single time in no time at all. The newer Darex machines are expensive, but they last forever. So that might be something to look at. Also, I'm with the other guy: every shop needs a greybeard. The guy that taught me to machine passed away unexpectedly only half a year after I started. I can get a lot done on my own, but there's just no substitute for the kind of experience someone like that brings to the table. Wish he was still around.
It's a pleasure to "meet" someone who cares about their place of employment and wants to leave it "in better shape than I found it". I'm sure you will be missed when you retire.
I'm a steel fabricator I do a lot of drilling mitering machine operating and Welding so drill bits are essential. And I can tell you what I like the most are Kobalts Titanium coated and Bosch M42 Cobalt bits. Thats whats in my work toolbox. Steel Aluminum Stainless and even 1- 1.5" cold-roll and stress proof Steel. So I am very very very very very glad to watch this. Because in my world drill bits that aren't good cost me a lot so getting great drill bits not only help productivity but pay for themselves plus interest.
Great feedback on the Bosch M42. Great set for the price!
I am a fan of Drillhog and Viking. Nothing can compare to either brand out of a big box store and both are USA made. Worth the cost IMO as you can sharpen them occasionally and they hold up as long as you don't smoke them with too much heat. Using them day to day and holding an edge after being sharpened for a long time is my gauge of quality. Nothing like cheap drill bits to have me cussing in the garage. 🤣
@@hgbugalou Amen to that.. that's why I keep Kobalt titanium coated for mild steel and aluminum. But I keep Bosch m42 for everything else. I have bought one box of each in the past year and I have not had to go out and buy drill bits in that year. And I can tell you I have probably drilled well over a thousand holes easily.. I work for a company (To Witch is the only company in the world that does this) that makes concession trailers foldable bleachers 10 /12 /15 row an 8 row and stages(3 different types) All portable by good size regular Truck an can be operated by 1 person... I make 90% of all the parts for all of them. Taking out water jet, plasma table, sheer(witch I use) and Break press. So drill bits are essential to my livelihood.
@@ProjectFarm Thanks PF.. I want you to know a lot of what's in my toolbox at work is from watching your Channel as well as personal experience.. you have made a lot of people a lot more knowledgeable and a lot better at the things they do. That is something this world needs more than anything and I am happy to support you in any way that I am able
If your not using matco hyper step bits your missing out and lifetime warranty
The product reviews you do are priceless. This channel and your catalog of info is one of a kind. Thanks for keeping it real.
My pleasure!
As a serious DIYer these videos are among the most helpful on UA-cam. Suggest tests to settle which brands’ brushless lines are worth the upgrade over brushed power tools and which brands are not. Look forward to the next vid!
Some companies out there have absolutely amazing marketing teams with subpar products. Thank you for cutting through all the BS in your reviews and not being part of the “sponsored” crowd that pushes whatever company is supporting them. Always like when you do new reviews every 2-3 years on products to test new brands or see of old brands changed. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks, will do!
Your integrity and thoroughness as a review never fails to impress
Thanks!
I like that you are revisiting older videos as well as the added commentary. You've been doing testing for a long time so your opinion is valid. As always great work.
Thanks!
I agree, some companies will also change materials of their products to increase profit margins which can reduce the item's quality dramatically.
I work at viking drill and tool here in MN (also live in walking distance from the factory LOL) and had no idea this video had covered our brand. Glad to see we are producing top notch stuff though. GREAT company by the way they are an ESOP and treat their workers well in my opinion.
Thanks for sharing.
I love your stuff. And ESOPs are great! We should all support these types of companies.
Pretty rare to find ESOPs. Lucky!
Employee Stock Ownership Plan
Minnesota huh? What are the companies politics? I could use some drill bits, but I stopped supporting companies that become politically.
The comments by the faithful speak volumes. Sir, I have been a faithful follower of Project Farm since you started up. I absolutely love the ingenious jigs, tools & other paraphernalia that you cobble together to test things, while avoiding errors. Your work around errors mechanisms should be mandatory teaching in college/schools that are training engineers. I always have been & still am
an admirer of your ingenious testing techniques. I hope that you make a very good income from your site......you well deserve it !
Thanks so much!
I do very little DIY and very rarely buy tools... but the last 2 years of watching every single thing i would ever need to purchase as a Dad who needs do get a job done and has made sure i haven't thrown money at a product for no reason. The last 5 tools ive purchased have come from watching these videos... and i wasn't told what to buy. I saw tests,graphs and tables and was left to decide for myself.
Also I can now talk tools with nearly every tradesman ... massive Pub chat winner.
Love the content,i can't wait to see what the best *insert tool i may need at some point is.
This guy does a lot of testing for us he doesnt get the respect. He shoukd review automotive durability because i like his closer attention to the details he actually painstakingly crunches the data
I still have the DeWalt bits from your earlier tests. My Drill Doctor has kept them true and useful all this time.
Thanks for the feedback.
If you tested 50 kinds of drill bits i would still watch the test. It is just great to watch the testing of drill bits. Thanks for the video!
Thanks and you are welcome!
LOL ! same here
Says it all! Post is up for less than 8 minutes and over 3,300 views and 89 comments. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much!
I'd love to see you review methods of joining automotive wires. E.g solder and heat shrink, twist and tape together, butt connectors, spade terminals and the new heat shrink with low temperature solder inside.
You could test time to use, current handling ( resistance, do they heat up under heavy load) strength when pulled, external heat resistance etc. Thanks for the great content
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Solder and electrical connection test but b4 testing there is different ways to twist the wires together b4 soldering and use double wall heat shrink.
I love to see it when expensive brands are taken down by less expensive brands but that did not seem to be the case here... with the exception of the Century Cobalt which still did not finish last. This is a great guide for purchasing a common use item because if someone is or is not planning on drilling hardened steel, they can choose the best fit for their toolbox. Thanks for another great one!
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
If the older me could go back to the younger me and tell myself "pay the piper and get a good set of bits" I'd have more money in my pocket. Cutting tools are one of those deals where you really get your money's worth. But it's also important to know how to drill. High speed in metal = dead bit. Slow, steady, and quite a bit of force is the way to go.
One of the few channels on UA-cam with integrity I respect everything you do
Thanks so much!
I worked for an irrigation company for 20 years. Having worked in several departments, I was in sales when the company was purchased and moved in 1982. The new company, being 'smarter' than the original company, decided to use imported .125" drills for orifices in 'Navy Brass' which had to be burr free. The imported drills would typically make 100 to 125 holes before becoming unusable as opposed to several hundred holes when using the more expensive "Cleveland Twist Drills" as used by the original company. I was asked how to extend the life of the imported drills. After consulting with a machinist friend, I sent the drills to a "Cryogenic" lab where they were 'heat treated' at -420 degrees below 0 degrees F. After treatment, the drills produced a clean orifice with a life of several hundred cycles. Hopefully this story is interesting and informative. I truly enjoy your videos, Thank You.
Cryo treatment just fully converts the existing Martensite? to harder compounds.
Itll greatly increase the wear resistance but also make the bits more brittle/less forgiving to off axis loads.
I thought you were about to tell management, "Yeah I have a great idea how to extend the life of the drill bits to several times these.... BUY THE OLD ONES YOU NONCE" 😂
Brass shouldn't wear down milling equipment if it's properly designed and kept cool. Same with aluminium.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
That is interesting.
I have seen several times the scenario where the new company is less competent but more convinced of their superiority.
Were you hand drilling?
What is navy brass vs regular brass?
@@ronfox5519 the drilling was done with a custom made, automatic machine. Brass is Copper and Zinc, Navy Bass is Copper, Zinc and Tin.
I purchased the Drill Doctor sharpener and sharpened all of my dull drill bits. Now I'm good for the next 20 years, just touch them up when they need it. Thanks again for another detailed comparison!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Is the Drill Doctor able to properly sharpen those Cobalt pilot style bits as well 🤔
The drill doctor isn't that great. You can do much better hand grinding with a bit of practice. It's worth practicing as you can then create many formed tools.
@@falsedragon33 I agree it has some shortcomings. That said, for the guy who doesn't own a grinder, this unit is decent and fairly easy to use. Ftr, I do get a very good edge on my drills and they been holing up well to my abuses.
@@falsedragon33This. As a machinist, I often did custom grinds on bits.
I've had the Bosch for a few years and they are still holding up unlike the other sets I've purchased. Always good to see you purchased wisely.
Thanks!
I have the same Bosch set as well. They are my go-to set for drilling metal. I use the DeWalt HSS set for wood and other materials, and they work fine.
A UA-cam channel that provides useful and accurate information unlike so many of the "look at me" channels.
Thanks!
I like that you showed off the LW's performance after sharpening! Even if it didn't produce any usable data regarding the bit's performance, it's a great example of how important bit sharpeners can be!
Thanks!
I am really surprised ho much better it did than the other brands when sharpened!
That's exactly what I thought!
It must’ve left the factory with a poor sharpening job or the angles were not correct. It makes all the difference, and the tests show that. That drill bit brand just needs some better tempering and metallurgical work. So brittle.
@@skullfracture2 so the only problems with those drill bits are bad metal and bad sharpening. Everything else is fine. 😂
No major news outlet has ever provided as useful information as this mans youtube channel he films in his work shed.
That speaks volumes to the legacy news legitimacy.
Thanks so much!
I haven’t even started watching yet, and I already know I’m going to end up buying a new drill set! 😅
Thanks for watching!
If I ever have questions before buying a tool, I come to your channel. Thank you for your service sir
It would have been cool to see all the bits sharpened and retested. It would help determine what's more important in drill bit performance: material or sharpness. It could also reveal if it's worth spending your money on a nicer bit sharpener rather than buying nicer bits up front. Thanks for all your work.
You are welcome! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Yeah, but how do you sharped the Milwakee and DeWalt? Unless they will also sell some expensive sharpening machine.
@@ContraVsGigiif you are using a belt sander grind the flat with the flat part and grind the curved part with the rounded over part at the very front. If you're hand filing, using a flat file and a round file should do the trick.
MANY off brand drill bits will perform totally different. I used to buy CHEAP HSS and solid cobalt bits, when they were pretty much all USA made... Hanson-Ace, Century, and many others.... They immediately got resharpened before putting into service, as they were optimized for production speed, not performance. I think they are getting a bit better, even if most are from China, to give good, if not optimal performance.
Drill Doctor will make drill bits last until they are too short to use anymore. Even one that snaps at the tip, can be rejuvenated. Just do not let it cook to cherry red on a bench grinder. Keep it cool.... get shape close to proper, and finish on Drill Doctor.@@ProjectFarm
@@ContraVsGigiyou take a grinder and knock those special nubs off of them and sharpen them like a regular drill bit. That drill Dr. Will make a drill bit out of anything.
I needed this, marketing on drill bits has gotten absurd.
Great point!
"I needed this, marketing has gotten absurd."
Fixed it for you.
😁
As a Machinist I prefer carbide drills. They are brittle but retain their edges far better than Cobalt and HSS.
@@ProjectFarmif they used TURBOCAM’s TX1 diffusion treatment, I think they’d hold up even longer
For me, I get excited seeing the difference between the big buck pro tools you test, and the HF junk I usually end up buying. It’s the best part of your videos - identifying on what things you “get what you pay for” and what things you dont. Thumbs up!
Thank you!
Thanks for always doing these unbiased reviews... But you left out the best brand I have found at Lowe's... Spyder Drill Bits.
A couple of years ago we were putting new flooring into a toy hauler. I couldn't get self tappers to go in the beans, and so we decided to drill them. Every single drill bit would break. We went to Lowe's and bought multiple sets. Finally, we bought these funky blue gimmicky looking bits.
Go back to the shop and started drilling. Finally, we got 1 hole drilled and it didn't snap. Success... Kept drilling and drilled the entire floor with that one single bit.
I have been a fan since then. So idk if it was just stronger, or if it would compete drilling speed wise as well with these.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Service to humanity is an understatement to the work you do on the internet here. Thank you for being objectively the best.
I appreciate that! Thanks!
Love that the Bosch got your seal of approval several years after the 1st test where you picked them!
i think i bought a bosch set just because of his first video. his stuff is always appreciated.
I bought that set years ago based on that video. Glad to see it’s still recommended. Truth is, I don’t drill through metal that much as I’m a woodworker but I have proper wood bits for that. The Bosch have been able to do anything I’ve asked. They work a lot better in a drill press though as it can be hard to generate the downward pressure with a hand drill.
I use that same set of Bosch out here in the oilfields in West Texas. They have performed flawlessly, even though I do not have any need for them to drill ultra-hard materials. I also use Drill Hog's Premium Pig Steel and Niobium-steel drill bits as well. I'm glad I'm getting my money's worth.
My grandfather worked and retired from Cleveland Twist Drill. He passed away a little over a month ago. But I still use the bits that he got from there. They are definitely a quality American made bit. Thanks for the video as always!
Your grandpa made some good bits. Clevelands are legit.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear of your father passing.
Indeed they are.
That kind of quality is something we took for granted until modern times. Never would have thought that it would become common to get entire sets or packs that were not properly sharpened. The one in this test that wouldn't cut is a common example.
@@ronfox5519 what you're experiencing is called survivor bias. What's good tends to outlast what's not good. That can give one a false impression that everything in the past must have been good because that's all that remains today. But they had garbage dumps in the past and they used them. If something was real junk it got junked. The good stuff they tended to hang onto more. Every now and again some real trash does manage to survive though and I've seen it and even have some of it. Like a set of Made in Japan twist drills that get dull drilling soft wood. The steel in them is just that bad. You could tie those bits in knots. Truly horrible stuff.
@@1pcfred
You must be a real hoot at parties.
A tip for anyone new to using drill presses... when you chuck up a drill but, especially one with a round shank, tighten the chuck up, and then rotate the chuck and tighten it even more with a second hole. Finally, rotate it to the 3rd home and tighten it even further. You will get a supremely tight grip on the bit.
I was told this by an old timer many years ago, and I tried it, and was astounded by how effective it is. It became a lifetime habit.
Thanks for the feedback.
I always break my bits vs dulling them. Tesing some of the smaller bits' breaking strength would be nice!
Great vid as usual!
What, how the hell lol
Only time I break a bit is if I'm twistin and tweakin my drill
@@alextheonewarrior 1/32", 1/64" bits break easy. looking at them might break them. thinking he's talking about those. now i'm a woodworker that'll split logs, mill them to workable wood in my shop, and make a jewelry box out of logs i get. some, well all the wood i use for said projects are very hard woods. add that to fine hardware, hinges for doors for example, the screws are brass or stainless steel, and very VERY tiny, i need an 'eyeglass screwdriver kit to put them in, soft metal that the wood alone will wear the threads right off the screws. and have to have pilot holes drilled. i use irwin bits because when one breaks, they're cheap to replace. but still good and long lasting.
I've broken only a few small-diameter bits (1-3mm). I've dulled a lot more because I'm an idiot as far as drilling metals is concerned and don't have a drill-press.
Lol...I've had some Chinese made bits (gifts) actually completely unwind instead of breaking 😀 Best option is still to buy individual bit sizes in packs from a reliable supplier to production machine shops--they are usually an order of magnitude better than most "homeowner" brand bits.
@@alextheonewarrior Breaking bits usually happens when you put radial load on them, drill bits are very hard but brittle, so instead of bending they just snap. So JC likely is pushing at an angle when drilling.
I used to buy HSS bits over and over and over, until I discovered M35 Cobalt drill bits. Never been happier in my whole life! It's like discovering magic. Managed to fix my car after weeks of wasting time with HSS bits quickly dulling out on a work-hardened snapped bolt that I couldn't drill out. M35 ate it up, spat it out, then ate more and spat that out. Like a hot knife through butter!
Thank you for sharing!
Yup...can't believe he recommended HSS what a waste of money
@@deeeeeepsit's just what the data says man. You can replace the set a number of times before touching the pricey sets. It's a cost benefit analysis for your use case
I have purchased items based on your reviews/tests. Thank you for the time spent doing what you do so well.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Yeah ,me too😊
Thanks for putting the time and doing these tests! This is definitely food for thought now that I need to replace my old drill set!
You're a different type of drill sergeant today
lol
I see what you did there 😂 Dad.
I would like to see you take the top 6 brands and run them all through the drill doctor and then run the exact same test again. That way, you could eliminate the factory sharpening variables and just test the metallurgy of the drill bits.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Time will tell. I have a jar of aerospace surplus TRW cobalt bits I got in the '80's. They've been heavily used and resharpened many times. By far, the best bits I've ever used.
I'm feeling serious workshop envy
Thanks for sharing.
You are by far the best tool review. Blows me away how in depth and organized your videos are. Keep up the good work thank you
Thanks, will do!
It would be really interesting to see the watts that the drill press is consuming with the various drill bits.
I agree, and I like your name, it reminds me of something 🤣
The dewalt pilot points really shine when drilling thin metals. They will produce a nice round hole with minimal burr, so i just use them just for that as I have no way to resharpen them as a pilot point. For thicker or harder to drill metal i have an old set of craftsman split point cobalts that i use. I have some cheapie bright finish 118 degree drills i use for the household soft stuff.
Definitely pilot points for thin material.
@solarsynapse especially if you are drilling the hole for a rivnut, or some type of thread insert.
2:31 THAT tip is what I made way back in the mid 1970s. Also revamped other tooling for the better.
We had an issue drilling oil holes in our largest diesel crankshafts. The drilling distance was over 1 foot through journal, main & journal (JMJ) where it took just under 3 drill bits to complete. I created that 'pilot bit' and gave it to the oil hole machine (bit size was around 3/8"). Tho he was skeptical he was surprised it drilled through one JMJ then partly through the next. Overall it saved the driller bit changing time and upped his production. THE REALLY ODD THING is, next day when the machine shop seen what I did, they wanted me fired.
Well in a year that engine division of A.C. was having $$ issues then became Fiat-Allis. IF ONLY that company took to heart at least a few of my ideas & concepts that engine division could have stayed and kept workers jobs. When they moved south everyone was asked to stay on but me. ya...their loss. (smh)
OH! That pilot bit came to market just over 2 years later. If they didn't OVER PRICE it, everyone would have one of the best & fasted drilling bits ever made. Todd, several years ago, that was the drill bit I wanted you to test against all others you've tested on this channel.
You answered a question that I 100% didn’t expect on this video. We bought a wood shop full of contents, everything from a lathe, table saw, drill press, router, to screws and glue. I haven’t even had time to fully sort and place items. Bought it primarily for the lathe, everything else was gravy. Anyway those drill press plate weights were a total mystery to me! I am so excited to get that answer without even asking. I knew they went with the drill press, they “matched” in color/metal but past that I had no idea.
Glad to hear!
Another awesome video! Drill bits are an item that isn't always needed, but having a crappy one in a time of need can really be a frustrating issue. Even more annoying is searching through a random assortment and not finding the size you need. Thanks for your tireless work Todd in saving us time and money for our projects!
Thanks!
Another great test! If you are up for it, I would love to see a snow shovel test. I am tired of buying shovels for them to break one month into winter! Durability, Weight, Leverage Advantage, and Ergonomics (subjective) would be great to see tested.
Thank you for sharing!
You did an awesome job last week testing water bottles. Could you do something similar by testing vacuum bottles? Thanks for all you do helping us to spend our money wisely. Keep up the great work.
Vacuum insulated water bottles? Those were
Yes indeed! Great suggestion! Thank you
@@Spectrum184 I was thinking more along the lines of a Thermos bottle which is different. Thanks for a chance to clarify.
I had a project a few years ago that required drilling through some pretty gnarly stainless steel. After ruining several bits with nothing to show I resorted to ragged holes with a plasma cutter. I then proceeded to do a bunch of research and in the end bought a complete set of high-end bits. I still keep boxes of the Dewalt HSS bits on hand for most projects. They are inexpensive and work well for most things and i don't fret when I ruin one.
As for the high-end bits, I ended up with a complete set of Drill Hog bits. When I say complete I mean complete. They sell a 123 piece set that contains every size fraction bit you could ask for as well as Letter sizes (A-Z) and Number sizes(1-60 wire gauge). Drill Hog makes this set in a high molybdenum bit that will chew through just about anything you can imagine. Expensive, yes. But heres the trick. Even though this set retails for $1000 Drill Hog almost always has it on sale at their website. As of the writing of this comment that $1000 set is on sale for less than $400. Yes $400 is still a lot of money but you will have every size bit you will ever need in a high quality, USA made bit that will drill any hole you ask of it. And Drill Hog has a lifetime gaurantee to the original purchaser of the bits so no need to fret if one gets broken. I think a one-time purchase to eliminate a lifetime of drilling headaches is worth $400. And you still have those cheap Dewalt bits around to a use on things that aren't critical jobs.
Thanks for sharing.
Specifically reading thru comments for stainless steel references as I couldn’t get through tiny SS 1/8th thick bracket with any of numerous random bits. Likely buying the Spyder Stinger Mach-Blue 10-Piece Assorted High-speed Steel bits from Lowe’s today since daily deal is $10 off for $29.98 price. Any experience with those? I wish @ProjectFarm had tested those or maybe does a Stainless based test later on.
@@8m617 I think PF should do a test of drilling stainless, too. It's different than hardened steel. If you don't have a drill press or mag-base drill, it's very difficult to keep the proper drill pressure for stainless no matter how good your bit is.
@@nemodetroit hey nemo, any other tips regarding stainless for a newbie as those 1/8th SS brackets humbled me good. I did buy the Mach Blue spider stingers months ago but they are in the drawer until this fall when I attempt the brackets again lol. I did buy a neighbors drill press recently and I’ve never used one before, but I’ll make it a point to break it in with the items I just mentioned just based on your comment. Constant even pressure and cutting oil help me? or is it just keeping the bit super straight via the drill press that’s the trick? Thx for any advice.
@@8m617 I'm not a machinist, but have drilled a decent amount of SS on the advice of some actual machinists. It's actually more the higher and constant pressure that a drill press (or mill) can deliver, rather than keeping a bill "straight". If you let off the pressure (which is almost inevitable with a handheld drill), the bit can rub, which heats up and work hardens the SS, making it much harder to then punch through. It's difficult to accomplish that with a handheld drill. The bit needs to be biting in and cutting the whole time. High pressure and slow(er) RPM speed seems to work for me on a drill press. A good cobalt bit definitely helps, too.
Great to see the repeat tests - I buy a bit not for one hole, but for many so seeing the difference in longevity was instructive.
Really interesting seeing so much variability in the same geometry and metallurgy, e.g. M42, I guess this means the machining, hardening and tempering process is at least as important as the alloy used. Thank so much for doing this test - I have been keenly waiting for it.
You are welcome!
Thanks for doing this second twist drill review Todd! Love it! 💪 I’m so glad you tested twice in spring steel as it sure makes a difference after just one hole’s worth of wear. I’ve bought several of these sets based off your video 3 years ago, and now I’ll go grab a Bosch and Dewalt cobalt set for my lathe when I need to still hardened steel. Thank you!! 🎉💪
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Great job with the test. For home use many of these are fine. I am a retired tool maker and on the job Viking was the best by far. I could drill so many more holes with out resharpening. In a job scenario time is money and it is worth the price and the company did supply the drills and other cutting tools. At home I use what every I have since most times it is hanging something on the walls of the house and you do not care if it takes an extra minute or two.
Absolutely, I purchase/use Hilti, Makita, Stihl e.t.c... latest & greatest at work. When suburban homeowner buddies ask what tool brand I'd reccomend, it's Ryobi.
@@adamjames1375 Besides the cordless drills I have the main heavy duty corded hand drill I have is a Milwaukee Magnum Hole Shooter. It's a beast and a real work horse.
@@Finnegan6674
I'm very familiar with the Magnum, they're my favorite corded drill. Best trigger response & nice low r.p.m.
One of the few "now made in China" tools that's still excellent.
I work primarily in the field doing carpentry/construction so cordless is king out there.
Within the last 5 years or so the cordless "pro" model drills have gotten so incredibly strong that I couldn't tell you the last time I used/needed a corded drill.
I can run 6" hole saws through any timber (tripled up 2"x/sheeted, double LVL, e.t.c...) & it'll turn a 5 gal bucket of mud without getting hot.
A trick on cordless drill drivers can be to set the drill chuck to "screw" and set to its' highest number allowing the chuck to slip. Most often user input & a brace is far superior, but if you're on a "pick" in the wind, or crammed in some godless crevice, where if the drill gets away from ya, you're going to have just successfully installed yourself a set of Summer Teeth...it's a viable solution.
I also often drill steel (beams, columns, posts, e.t.c.) anywhere from 1/4"-3/8" pilot & ream to size.
...
Any techniques/equipment you'd reccomend for a carpentry/construction outfit to sharpen 135° split point cobalt twist drill bits?
It’s great that you tested breaking failure! Nothing like breaking a drill bit in heads! Very impressive!!!
Thanks!
Always nice to see my own empirical experiences and opinions validated by your testing. I love my various Viking drill bits (particularly the 115-piece Magnum set) and use them on the tougher metals and when I drill for tapping but when I know I will be hard on the drill bit, I use the major brand names (Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt) made overseas (mostly) and purchased at a big box store. Thank you for another great test and video!!
I'm just the opposite. I don't want to sacrifice my good drills on spring steel! I don't mind dulling them because I have a sharpener, but I don't want to snap my good drills! My Warrior M35 usually come through without a scratch.
By the way that $11 dewalt set has served me very well. Couldn’t be happier
Thanks for the feedback.
Real HSS makes a difference, the DeWalt probably uses genuine HSS. Lots of the drills falsely claim to be HSS and they're just cheap carbon steel alloy.
Excellent, as always. I would like to see a quick change drill bit showdown. I purchased a few brands with the 1/4" hex for which change or magnetic bit holders. Some easily spun out as they only had a pressed, friction fit, while others were the same, but then crimped. And then there are the forged/machined 1/4" hex bits. Not all are equally good nor centered!
Which did you like best?
Another great video. Repeated drilling through hard material is what separates the rock stars from the groupies, and you demonstrated that well here. I'm surprised at the DeWalt and the Bosch sets, they should be fine for most household use.
Thanks!
The Cle-line looks an awful lot like the set I have from my time in the USN. 30 years, and these bits are still going strong.
Thanks for sharing.
I've been involved in machining for 45+ years, they're the set I would purchase. Reasonable price, quality steel Huot case, appeared to suffer the least damage, made in USA by Cleveland Twist Drill, and are traditional 135° split-point so they don't walk as much and can be re-sharpened on my Black Diamond drill grinder. One aspect that wasn't covered was accuracy of the hole size. As the lips get damaged they will start pulling the bit off-center causing a poorer surface finish and a larger hole. I was also disappointed that one of my personal favorite manufacturers Chicago Latrobe weren't represented in this test. I have a C-L #1-80 drill index I've been using in my shop for 40 years on mostly mild steels and some 4140 and O1 tool steels. They've held up remarkably well, I've rarely needed to re-sharpen them. I've always use Rapid Tap cutting oil anytime I'm drilling steels (A1 on alum) which reduces drilling forces and greatly extends the life of the drill bit.
@@marcseclecticstuff9497 nowadays, the same company owns Cleveland, Cle-Line, and Chicago Latrobe. They're all functionally identical, and they all use the same lovely Huot cases. I started off my machining hobby with a set of Chicago Latrobe drills and didn't know how good I had it until I made the mistake of getting one of those godforsaken no-name import number/letter/fractional drill size kits. After I ruined at least 3 projects, I replaced it with the equivalent Chicago Latrobe kit, and the 3x price increase was well worth it.
All this to say, it seems like the corporate merger of those three brands doesn't seem to have ruined the quality of them. Always nice when that happens.
@@marcseclecticstuff9497Yep! The holes have visible tool markings in just about all of them . When drilling metal cutting fluid should be uses more often then just a drop on the metal. That is the reason most production machines regardless of type have coolant tanks/sumps and pumps to ensure tool life.
@@danielbackley9301 Production demands are actually very different. The coolant certainly does provide some lubrication, but it serves 2 more important functions.
First, it's for cooling the tooling. As the tool gets hotter it expands. If you have a big boring bar on a finish cut and it's really hot, you'll oversize the bore. This is also the reason why most CNC machine centers circulate oil around the outside of the spindle and run it thru a chiller to try to keep the spindle at a constant temperature. Some machines even use a chiller on the ball screw bearing blocks to keep their temperatures stable.
Secondly, and more importantly in some cases, is chip evacuation. When drilling deep holes you have to keep the chips flushed out of the hole. If they pack around the drill it will start galling the inside of the hole and left unchecked will cause the tool to seize inside the bore and breaking the tool. Most of our machines have thru-coolant spindles with high pressure coolant pumps that feed them. Ours are typically set to 1000psi with the smallest tools, bigger tools with more or larger passages causes the pressure to drop down proportionately. We run a lot of gun drills, some as deep as 24" or so and if the thru-coolant fails, they will quickly start to gall and seize.
Most modern production coolants use synthetic oils that emulsify in water and look like watery milk. It's nasty stuff for most plastics and rubbers. Plastics tend to get brittle and crack, rubbers suck it up like a sponge, expand, and turn into goo. I had a current probe attachment for my meter that sat in my toolbox that started cracking and falling apart after about 10 years. I'm very good about cleaning all my tools, especially my expensive test gear and it made no difference. Even being in my box in the maintenance department there is still enough coolant mist floating around to affect it.
In my home shop I've never used coolant - too much of a PITA to deal with and I'm simply not in a big hurry to do things. For instance, if I'm drilling a deep hole I simply withdraw the drill constantly to clear the chips. If I'm doing something that needs a high degree of precision, I make sure I let the part cool down before making a finishing cut to size. I've used Rapid Tap for the 40+ years I've been whittling metal at home, it's served me well. Not only does it reduce wear in tooling, it also reduces cutting loads. Try drilling a 1/2" hole in steel dry, then drill another using a good quality cutting fluid and the difference in feed pressure is quite noticeable. For tapping I prefer a dark cutting oil with a high sulfur content. Unfortunately, the stuff I've tried in the past 20 years just doesn't work nearly as well as the stuff I used to get in the late 70's and 80's so I just use Rapid Tap now. At work they stock Cimtap which I never really cared for. It's very sticky so it stays on the tool, but it also sticks to the ways of the machine, collects fines and they get drug under the wipers and trash the machine ways. Not an issue for true machinists who would keep the ways cleaned off, but in a factory full of Bubba's that are too lazy to wipe their own a$$, it's a machine death sentence.
Excellent video and review as usual. I deal with hardened steels often so Viking was a brand I started using years ago. it is good to see it compares well even if it is expensive. I've heard others mentioned drill hog favorably and it did so in your testing as well. Glad you continue finding things to test and have kept the channel close to its initial start/roots.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I love that you not only buy all of these tools for testing but break them to go all out!! VERY IMPRESSIVE!
Thank you!
As a person who enjoys tools, tooling, torture tests, and product reviews... We all love your content.
Thanks!
A big factor on drill bit life is spindle run out and work holding. If you have poor runout or your work is flapping around it won't last as long. Carbide is king in a rigid set up. HSS is best for poor runout/workholding.
Great points! Thank you
Depends. HSS covers too many alloys. Some cobalts like M5 are better HSS than M42 for poor work holding.
@@ProjectFarm I think you'll find you'll get better results (and much longer life) spinning them slower, too.
Perfect timing. Been thinking about buying a good set. Glad I can see which are best.
Glad I could help!
Anyone who works on things uses drill bits. This is GREAT information! Well done AGAIN Project Farm!! Keep up the GREAT VIDEOS!!
This channel and football. Both things make Sundays great.
Thank you very much!
I'd love to see a comparison between "recovery boards" for getting your vehicle unstuck. Maxtrax seems to be the market leader, but I'm curious how the cheaper (Amazon) boards compare.
Thanks for the suggestion.
When I see you upload, it's always a guaranteed click! Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Watching this I realize I own some very expensive drill bits from the 80s, have a huge collection from the oil rig days, can't wait to sharpen all 400 of them with my Drill Doctor, your reviews simply rock man...
Thanks for the feedback.
I love these tests and I appreciate the time you take to do them. At the same time I find differences of a couple percentage points or a few seconds to be negligible in the overall scheme of things.
Thanks for the feedback!
Agreed. With the small differences in the first round of testing, longevity is far more important to me
I am glad you added some industrial grade drills to this review. I have a set of industrial grade I bought for the company price when I worked in manufacturing.
Even though they are abused and run in a hand drill, I’ve yet to need to replace a drill and they’re primarily used to drill out bolts…
Thanks for the feedback.
Finally caught an upload! Nice comparison! Also, your coffee is great!
Thank you very much!
I like this guy from 10000KM ( although I can not find most of the unit what he is testing) . He is speaking like a machine gun but still very clear to understand as non-native speaker. He definitely likes his job. That makes us keep coming back here :-) this channel deserve what they are earning through youtube ads etc ( hope not from product promotions :-)) )
Great test as always. Thank you.
One suggestion though: for apples to apples price comparison, it might be more helpful to give price PER BIT instead of the pack, as the number of bits in each pack varies greatly.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Haven't seen the vid yet, but in my experience in the UK it just makes sense to buy drills and tools from a proper engineering supplier. Much cheaper and higher quality than the stuff builders use. And people need to learn how to sharpen drills so that they last, especially for builders who can get away with a rough regrind.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Really appreciate you doing all this testing for us!! 😊
Thank you for sharing!
Hey Mr Farm, could you review dash cams? I'm sure we all need one but your one of the reviewers I trust, along with the Torque test channel of course
Thanks for the suggestion.
I've never had any issues with any of the larger drill bits of any brand but I always have issues with the smaller thinner drill bits of all brands.
Great point
As a mechanic for many years I have found most made in USA bits do a pretty good job. It's nice to find that some less expensive one can do an acceptable job. Also lubrication and speed and temp can all be factors in cutting speed and longevity
Thank you for sharing!
Can't wait to see you at the off road games!!!
Looking forward to meeting you and everyone else that's there! I'll be loading up the vehicle with several items from past videos for a raffle too. Very nice knife sharpener, torque wrench, tool set, very nice super capacitor jump starter and more!
What? As in MORR off road games? That'd be awesome!
I saw this on Matt’s video this morning.
Project Farm at the Off-road Games - VERY IMPRESSIVE!
You at Matt's Offroad games??
Awesome sir, glad you were invited and are going!
I suggested you and I hope my suggestion was one of the tipping points for them to invite you!
@@gmccl yes, they are putting a four wheel driver with a UA-camr! Should be fun.
Best channel on youtube.
Solving the worlds problems with integrity!
Oh, where’s my popcorn
Is it ironic that the top two sets are the most expensive and the cheapest?
Thank you very much!
I know right, I love this channel.
Do you ever think maybe people want to watch it without a spoiler comment random popping up under the video?
Karen much?@@ExcavationNation
@@Michael-me4pehe has a point, and calling him a Karen, what are you, 12 yrs old?
Hey Project Farm, I think that if you're going to do torque testing, you should come up with a test rig that keeps the torsion completely in-plane so it doesn't become shear or bending moment on the drill bits or other long, slender shapes. It doesn't take much to offset the load in ways they're not meant to handle (or at least, ways that you're aiming to test), and that can make your tests less consistent.
I'd love to see how these bits hold up to regular sharpening...
Great suggestion! Thank you
Only coated bits would loose performance.
I have simply made atleast 12 purchases simply based off of this man’s videos and let me tell you I’d never been disappointed…
Thanks!
We all just sat here and watched a guy drill holes for 13 minutes LOL
Thanks for watching!
Once Linus Tech Tips gets their lab up and running for computer stuff testing, would love to see a crossover :)
That would be awesome!!
Dewalt makes some damn good drill bits for their price, as someone who has the exact same dewalt kit you are using they are my go to drill bits.
For reference I have some old unlabeled kits from family members, 3 ryobi sets, 2 Milwaukee sets, a crescent set, a Makita set, an Irwin set, and a Bosch set.
Great point! Thank you
It's the perfect set for weekend warrior types (like myself) who aren't drilling hundreds or thousands of holes.
If youtube has some kind of awards they need to give this channel one, top notch content
Thanks!
I'm sure its already on the to-do list, but a show down of flatware/silverware would be really cool to see. Really difficult to find a set that doesn't rust, they also can be incredibly expensive.
I would also like to see this!
Me too
Thank you for the video idea! Any other suggestions on how to compare them?
@@ProjectFarm Just off the top of my head: Balance, fit (do they fit a man's hand, or are they narrow and delicate?), can you scrape a scoop of ice cream with the spoon? Will the table knife cut a rib eye? (See, now you can cook steaks eat ice cream and charge if off to your business😁). Grade of stainless, weight, country of origin.
@@ProjectFarm Definitely do a rust test!
Yes!! I needed this one ;)
Thank you very much!
I have that $11 Dewalt drill bit set. They're fine for everyday household use; why spend more to drill holes once every year or so in wood or tile?
Tile? I like the cheap DeWalt twist drills I use them on steel all the time, but you ain't drilling through tile with them
Great point! Thank you
@@slayerspam...I did.
Fast and to the point. Some of these test videos you fall asleep watching but not here allot of information in a short amount of time.