When my daughter was 6 or 7, my wife let her pick out my Christmas gift at a dollar store. She chose a similar mallet, which 25 years later, I still used regularly. She always gets a chuckle when she sees that old mallet in my bag when I'm working on something at her house.
That's awesome that she got that for you, it still works and you use it. I'm sure that brings back incredible memories for the both of you. And she's got to be so happy that her father actually did and use is something that she gave him so long ago😊
As a guy that’s been doing woodwork literally his entire life I’m 65 now, OK well for 45 years now. Those locking table dogs are the absolute best thing that I’ve seen. I’ve got most the other stuff covered but yeah I had no idea about those and that little tool to put the chamfered top on the hole. Plus that other pocket jig. I’m definitely ordering one of those. Great video buddy appreciate it.
Been watching a lot of these type of videos from builders lately. And I just gotta say, I'm liking this dude the best. No fluff, just straight to the point and the why behind it.
I bought a drill guide from Sears for my dad, Christmas late 1970's. A crude version, but very similar. When a hole needed to be drilled at exactly 90 degrees, there was no doubt about it. I still have it. [edit] Just a tip... you can hot glue (or other means) a fastener to the face of each bin showing what it holds.
If you don't want to hot glue, a couple of very small holes and a bit of tie wire will do the same job. Also makes it easier to remove that item if you want to reallocate that bin to something else.
I bought a similar mallet when I was 19. Now, 58 years later, I have replaced the heads several times and it is still my most used tool after the impact driver. Used for everything from driving stakes to engine work. It even comes in handy on the wood lathe. I now have a large collection of hammers but other than driving nails and ball peen work, this is virtually the only hammer I use.
I used to have a Port-a-Line drill guide. That is the one tool that I regret letting go of when I was forced to down-size. I tried to find one years ago, and couldn't find anything like it. I'm glad to see someone is making them again. Drill guides are also perfect for people who can't have a shop at all.
We had a commercial shop, at my work. We had bins of odd hardware, all mixed together. I bought a bunch of Cookie Sheets all the same size. Made a Rack out of scrap Plywood, to slide the Cookie Sheets into. Had a Sheet for each of the following. Wood screws, Sheet Metal Screws, Machine Screws, Machine Bolts, Nuts, Washers and the final one for Lock-washers.
I'd go with Simplex for choice of mallet. Multiple head weights and tons of interchangeable face materials available. Love the channel. Thanks for all you do.
15:18 For me, the best containers for screws and such are the 1kg (about 35 ounces), clear and empty plastic peanut butter jars! Once cleaned in the dishwasher, they are almost unbreakable, stack well, plastic is see through and you can move the container around and keep it sealed in case it falls on the ground. No mess! Also a good way to reduce waste.
I agree with your recommendation on that mallet. I saw you or someone on another channel using it, and thought I'd pick one up and try. I now use it *all the time* in my assembly -- it's my go-to mallet. It has just the right heft, and unlike my wooden mallet or dead-blow hammer, doesn't leave any marks. Best of all, it was less than $20.
I just use scrap piece of wood to lay over the fine piece and than I can use anything to kick it. Maybe easier to use soft mallet but I would be worried about soft woods like spruce if I hit it with harder plastic side or also soft side of the mallet. It's like everything wants to leave marks on spruce.. Too soft for anything that needs nice finish.
Excellent tips. By the way, the idea of using a ruler for drawing curved lines is very good and has in fact been known for a long time. Such tools were called splines (which has also made its way into the name of parametric curves in modern computer programs, e.g. Bézier splines) and were used in design. Curves determined in this way followed the path of energy minimization, which was of great significance in the design of components, for example, automobile bodies. It's great that you're reminding us of these not necessarily commonly known methods today.
When/if my Kreg jig wears out or breaks I'm buying one like you showed! That's a very nicely made jig. I just made two new mallets to get an in-between weight for various chiseling work. I have a dead blow hammer for assembly with non-marring faces. Works pretty well. Glad you mentioned MAKING a mallet - I've never bought one (after >40 years woodworking).
I have a couple of rubber/plastic mallets, but there's often no better option than simply holding some scrap wood over the workpiece and hitting that. Concerning screw storage, I have a toolbox full of clear plastic business card boxes, which have various screws in them. They're all labelled and easily available.
For holding small parts, better to use something like the large flat Milwaukee pack out organizer. When you buy your supplies, keep the labels and put those at the top of the pile in the organizer. With the lid top open take a picture of it and keep it on your notes on your phone. This way it’s always easy for reference and you know roughly the quantity that you have in each organizer so when you’re out at the hardware store and you remember that you wanted to get something else you can quickly go to your image zoom in on it if you need to and get more of the specific item. If you share your notes with other people that work in your shop, everybody can be updated onto the contents of each supply tray. The cool thing about the Milwaukee cases of course is that they are easily pulled from shop to job site and back again.
35+ years ago Craftsman sold a similar drill guide. It didn’t have the angle adjust, but it did allow the rods to extend below the base. That way you slip it over the edge of a board, rotate it until the rods rest on the top/bottom of the board…perfectly centered dowel holes. I still have mine.
I use magnets to find screws, and that tool looks like an improvement. However, be aware that where edges of drywall meet, the screws will be offset to the left and right at the joints. Also be aware, guys may not sink them in pairs, so that they are next to each other, and they may not center them on the studs, particularly if the framers did not space the studs perfectly.
Dude that mallet… I have one too (not estwing tho), and I use it ALL the time. Great for hold-fasts, chisels, persuading metal things… everything. Love it.
If you have access to a maker shop, you can take some acrylic and cut a variety of curves using their laser save them for templates in your shop. Big time saver and it can be very efficient clamp in place for guiding your saw and or router.
For finding studs I use a rare earth magnet, round half inch thick, 3/4 diameter. I keep it on my putty knife in my work vest. When I find a sheet rock screw I also check for sheet rock screws above and below to see if maybe that screw is not centered on the stud. If critical, I'll use an eight inch drill bit and drill through the sheet rock to find the 2 edges of the stud, I'll then know exactly where the center is. Not always necessary but sometimes it is.
One thing about a stud finder; since you cannot guarantee the accuracy of a drywall nail, I use several points along the stud in order to help center any screw. To do this, I use a bunch of small 'super strong magnets'. They not only find nails my stud finders miss, but I can line up a few of them along the stud, and even neighboring studs to get the complete picture. I can leave them there where they clearly mark the studs. When I go to remove them, there's no pencil lines to erase. So much better (and cheaper) than any stud finder I've ever used.
Lixie makes the best mallet imo. The flooring version has their two softest heads which are so soft you can hit pine HARD and it wont dent, but still puts a lot of energy into the piece.
Love the way you used the straight edge for curve cutting. Awesome idea. I just had to cut a curve for a bathroom vanity shelf. Wasn't pretty. I was 2 days late for this show.
a couple I made note of two I have "shop built" items that work as well or better than what shown. Nails & screws I made a box with bottom filled box with short lengths of 4" PVC as "holders" "Countrytime" lemonade (which I drank a lot of as a contractor) containers just fit into the PVC. once container is empty, washed and snip off spout on chopsaw. place desired fastener into container, write contents on lid with marker (no need for high ?? label printer) affix lid & place containers in order of size & type into "rings" and hang on wall 2nd. A simple narrow, thin strip of wood and a length of string. Cut bow style notches on sides at one end, tie loop in one end of string, when "arch" is needed affix loop over end into notches, bend wood to desired radius and wrap loose end of string around several times. tied loop gives you quick release with easy repeat.-
Franklin Instruments makes the one and only stud finder you should ever use/need. Nothing else compares. It has a bunch of sensors and LEDs so that you can watch a stud pass underneath it, and locate its center, as you move it around. Magnetic stud finders are only as accurate as the placement of the drywall screws, and drywallers are famously not concerned with fine details.
There are a couple of these I need in my life. I work in a small residential cabinet shop and I'm always looking for clever tools/solutions. Using the table saw fence as the router fence adjustment is perfect. We have a big cast iron sawstop table saw in a 10x10 table. But our rarely used router table is trash. Using the extra space, with the good tablesaw fence to adjust the router fence will make me use a router table again. And I'm making a magnetic stud finder today. I already have the materials so thanks for that one too. Also the drill guide was what came to mind first. We don't have a drill press but I have a cheap plastic guide that I just found and started using. Having parallel holes, especially on hardware jigs is so important. Especially when you have to flip the jig and then start using a bigger bit to get everything straight. Think ill upgrade that too.
@@MWAWoodworks update us if you do. I don’t have a CNC and don’t plan on getting one just for that. Haha. But I’ll buy one and I’m sure others would also.
Or at least make a shoping list with all the parts (easier to ship, to). Any one of us can, and want to make that MDFboard, with your drawings. I would love to order all your stuff throu you, so figure out som way we can order by simply clicking. Its a jungle out there if you want to find the right parts and I want to make all the clever guids, but it stops there as I can’t find the right parts. Please tell me when you are done with your “easy order”. OK? 😊. Joa in Sweden.
The most common architectural/furniture curves are either arcs, or partial ellipses = where the rate of change increases towards the ends. If you want an ugly curve, you just bend it to one midpoint and get the greatest rate of change in the middle. As in this video. In tight curves like some turnings of boat hulls this is a useful curve, but it is an ugly curve in most furniture. For uses like knee cutouts, or the edge of a table, arcs are most common, and a simple way to bend a ruler for those is: If you want to get an arc with that ruler trick, you need several reference point. Take 4. Your mid height (take 1 inch in this case), At the ends you have a height of 0 intermediate points moving outward from the center by 1/4 are .93, .73, .42. You can make any arc you want by multiplying the deflection by those numbers. So if you wanted a height of 5 inches it would be 5 in the middle, 0 at the ends, and the first station would be .93x5=4.65, etc...
Great tool tips. One thing to consider on the Stud Buddy, if you are at a Drywall Butt Joint the screw will be in the 3/4 half of the 1.5 inch stud. So it won't be in the center.
@MWAWoodworks for pictures, it's probably no big deal, but if it is a big TV wall mount, then only catching a half of the stud with a 3/8 lag may be problematic. Regardless, it's a good tool for finding a stud.
My thermal printer is the best thing I’ve bought in years practically. That along with some small bags or Mylar bags and variety of label sizes… it’s organized stuff so well. Whenever I get extra parts for an item, pop a label on it so quickly or use it to make instructions and pop it on.. I use it several times a day. lol
Awesome ! Great video thanks! Stud buddy is great! But remember drywallers don't always put the nails or screws in the center of the stud! Most of the time though!
While using magnetic stud finders it is also useful to find screws above and/or below the first found and use the average line. Just in case, as in every case ever, the screws aren't on the center line.
You can clamp the drill guide to a larger piece of wood, and clamp or attach the wood to your target, increasing your options such as the distance from the edge whilst clamping.
Yep that's true. If you pre drill your hole in the "larger" piece it can also help with tear out. But it does limit the depth of cut you can get so id use maybe 1/2" ply or thinner if possible
The IJK and the Rocker drill guide is basically a spitting image of each other... The Rocket is solid and a great premium one also...but the IJK, rocker and Woodpeckers are all pricey. While they are certainly useful.. Even the best ones pale to almost any drill press.
They are pricey, but not as pricey as an equal quality drill press! A good drill press (one worth buying with the appropriate capacities, features and accuracies) cost between $700 and $2500 and you still couldn't use it on a desk top.😀
Thanks for the great tips. I'm buying a Stud Buddy ASAP because I'm still traumatized from years ago when I drilled and then screwed *four* holes into the bathroom drain pipe for shelf supports. The electronic stud finder indicated it was a perfect 1.5" stud width, so despite my usual careful and skeptical nature, I went with it. *sniffs* Hmm... what's that smell? 😂
I haven't had to use a stud finder in more than 20 years. There is a stud every 16 inches. There is a stud in every corner, every door frame and every window frame. Every construction grade tape measure has 16" indicators. Granted if you are dealing with a 100' wall you don't want to do that, but most walls in a house aren't that long.
Haha you know how many times I drove a screw where there was "supposed" to be a stud 16 on center and it wasn't there? Unfortunately there's lots of offsets and other conditions that make this not work out exactly 💯 not to mention 16 inches is not the only standard. You can also have 24 inches on center depending on the size of the home, load bearing requirements and size of the studs (2x4 vs 2x6). Also older homes are a mess. They don't follow any standards at all.
@@MWAWoodworks lol true. But I've also had stud finders pick up missed studs as well. A lot of drywallers miss as many studs as they hit. But I guess I've been lucky and never missed with measurements.
Also what I like is finding out how to make the tools you’re paying for, an example, just get some good magnets instead of stud buddy, bench dogs just cut or make dowels… as tool freaks that we are, quick go out and buy that slick tool…
I don’t know your name mate but I have to say that you have just become probably my favourite workshop/woodwork guy on UA-cam. What a wonderful, neat and tidy workshop. I wish I had similar. Thank you so much for posting. I have just subscribed - you’re a keeper!! Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
The handle of my Craftsman hammer has a thick rubber cap on the end, which is perfect for tapping parts into place, without needing to drag around another tool.
As for the studs landing on 16" or 24", it all depends on what type of crew built and drywalled the house. If it's a Mexican crew (nothing against them.) then it will usually be around 19" on center. You can see this on your tape, it's marked with a diamond. This is because Mexican drywall crews ALWAYS use 10' sheets of drywall, laid horizontally. This measurement allows a 10' sheet to end on a stud, without cutting 2' off the end. I've done plenty of repair to houses in the south only to find studs around 19" apart. And, before someone comes on and says "drywall is supposed to be installed horizontal", uh no it's not. Look at manufacturers remarks on this. They say it should be installed vertically, BUT if the walls are over 9' or are metal studs, you get more support laying them horizontal, but there are no regulations saying you HAVE to. Yes, I've looked it up when I was building a closet add on, and the GC jumped my ass after it was done because I didn't lay the drywall on it's side. The closet was only 8' high, 10' long and 3' deep. He listened to a new hire that WATCHED lots of Mexican crews lay them down on edge, so he thought it was regulation. The new hire didn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. I also caught the new hire going through the home owners mail, in the mail box.
Will be buying the flexible straight edge for the same reason I think it's odd to not get a drill press... non-flat surfaces. I guess they're not that common in woodworking but definitely something I have frequently. For the stud buddy... brilliant. I recently independently had that realization when I had some leftover neodymium magnets. Way more reliable than a typical studfinder.
@@scotth5503 true. However, I think finding a few screws on the same stud will be more reliable than a stud finder… or just just a combination of the two.
I rarely need to worry about finding the exact center of the stud. If I am I probably am removing the drywall and attaching right to the studs like on a floating shelf.
Wood workers make their own mallets just like Jedi make their own light sabers. Super magnets have dozens of good uses in a wood shop , especially those surplus magnets from old hard drives as they already have a mounting bracket .
I have all the tools I need, and a smallish workbench, as I only have a single garage which is occupied by the motor vehicle most of the time. I need to get a thick piece of MDF, which I can store against a wall and put on trestles for a larger and, most importantly, a FLAT worktop.
Oh, BTW, about the mallet... I made a small one with a softer wood (which I'm not sure what it was exactly, perhaps even some kind of pine) and I use it exactly for that! Works amazingly!
I works nicely until it eventually breaks :(. I did one out of pine with inner holes filled with lead to give it weight. It was perfect until it broke.
Thanks for the heads up on the tools. I could use most of them. Some now and some to replace others when they need to be. I certainly appreciate it! 😊😊😊
The second you mentioned the portable drill guide like 7 pieces clicked into place for me! I was like “of course that’s a thing, how did I never consider that to be a thing before??” Texted the gf immediately to update the Christmas list 😂
Top tool for me is a track saw, I would’ve been doing much more professional/accurate work earlier on if I got one sooner. Also spraying finishes. General finishes water based/cleanup ONLG
yep I tell new woodworkers to jump in on a track saw. You can get away with not having a table saw for a while if you have a track saw and a miter saw.
Those are all some nice tips but that #1 is super sweet and a compact option 😳 I will definitely be selling my drill press and buying one of those so I can have more room after 🎉 Thanks for the info ✌️
buying fesstools - but not wanting to spend money on a cheap drill press. If you know someone that works where they ship larger items, ask them to get you a 6ft peice of metal 3 inch banding material - its really straight, very flexable and they throw enough of it away they will be happy to give it to you, I have a pile of magnets that I have had for years, I got a stud buddy as a gift, I either threw it out or gave it away.
Great suggestions. I have been wood working for a while now and I don't have most of those useful tools that you have pointed out but suspect I will be getting some of them in the near future.
Franklin Stud sensor with a magnetic stud sensor as a back - up. Best of both worlds. Quick (Franklin) with a magnetic back up that may be (and often is) at the edge of the stud instead of the middle.
Definitely adding quite a few of these to my list! I framed for years so I love the feel and weight of my framing hammer, with a smooth face, and use a block of the same species of wood I am building with. Seems to never mar the surface and then I don’t have more things laying on my work surface hah
Thank You for this video. I appreciate all this information. Learned a lot. I would also ask if you could mention where tools are manufactured as part of the description. I ALWAYS seek out the American made tools. Especially if its made of metal. Ill keep watching and subscribe.
I like that this list include common sense tools, not planers and jointers and dust collection systems. These are all tools and ideas that can be easily transferred to my :shop". Which at this time consists of two shelves in my bedroom closet.
13:50. The absolute best “stud finder” is the Walabot. Not only does it SHOW you the studs, but also pipes, wires, metal and virtually anything hidden below the surface. The magnet device is only as accurate as where the screws are, not always on center. And no, it does not show where copper or PEX pipes are.
Do you have a video for that router fence?! I have a similar sawstop setup but am running the sawstop router fence separate from my table saw fence and running into issues - your attached fence idea might just solve them all!
I love the pocket hole jig set up and would love to surprise the guys in the workshop with the jig jig (Jigception). do you have a CNC file for the one you made, and would you be happy to share it please?
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When my daughter was 6 or 7, my wife let her pick out my Christmas gift at a dollar store. She chose a similar mallet, which 25 years later, I still used regularly. She always gets a chuckle when she sees that old mallet in my bag when I'm working on something at her house.
I bought a $1 magnet extension to reach lost nuts. That has paid for itself many times.
mallets are underrated. there isn't a single day at the workshop when i don't find myself reaching for it to give something a little thwack.
That's awesome that she got that for you, it still works and you use it. I'm sure that brings back incredible memories for the both of you. And she's got to be so happy that her father actually did and use is something that she gave him so long ago😊
As a guy that’s been doing woodwork literally his entire life I’m 65 now, OK well for 45 years now. Those locking table dogs are the absolute best thing that I’ve seen. I’ve got most the other stuff covered but yeah I had no idea about those and that little tool to put the chamfered top on the hole. Plus that other pocket jig. I’m definitely ordering one of those. Great video buddy appreciate it.
This is maybe the best "tools advice" video I have seen. Affordable, kind of obscure, but REALLY useful tools. THanks!!!
Thanks 👍
Been watching a lot of these type of videos from builders lately. And I just gotta say, I'm liking this dude the best. No fluff, just straight to the point and the why behind it.
I bought a drill guide from Sears for my dad, Christmas late 1970's. A crude version, but very similar.
When a hole needed to be drilled at exactly 90 degrees, there was no doubt about it.
I still have it.
[edit] Just a tip... you can hot glue (or other means) a fastener to the face of each bin showing what it holds.
If you don't want to hot glue, a couple of very small holes and a bit of tie wire will do the same job. Also makes it easier to remove that item if you want to reallocate that bin to something else.
I bought a similar mallet when I was 19. Now, 58 years later, I have replaced the heads several times and it is still my most used tool after the impact driver. Used for everything from driving stakes to engine work. It even comes in handy on the wood lathe. I now have a large collection of hammers but other than driving nails and ball peen work, this is virtually the only hammer I use.
I used to have a Port-a-Line drill guide. That is the one tool that I regret letting go of when I was forced to down-size. I tried to find one years ago, and couldn't find anything like it. I'm glad to see someone is making them again.
Drill guides are also perfect for people who can't have a shop at all.
Ujk and rockler use the same manufacturer...they are just ok, better options exist...wp...
We had a commercial shop, at my work. We had bins of odd hardware, all mixed together. I bought a bunch of Cookie Sheets all the same size. Made a Rack out of scrap Plywood, to slide the Cookie Sheets into. Had a Sheet for each of the following. Wood screws, Sheet Metal Screws, Machine Screws, Machine Bolts, Nuts, Washers and the final one for Lock-washers.
👍
Smart. I am still using coffee cans and a tray with a funnel on the side to put them back in the can. It works, but can be a pita.
But now, where do you keep the cookies?
I'm more of a putterer than a wood worker but I find the better tools I have the better my projects come out!
I'd go with Simplex for choice of mallet. Multiple head weights and tons of interchangeable face materials available. Love the channel. Thanks for all you do.
15:18 For me, the best containers for screws and such are the 1kg (about 35 ounces), clear and empty plastic peanut butter jars!
Once cleaned in the dishwasher, they are almost unbreakable, stack well, plastic is see through and you can move the container around and keep it sealed in case it falls on the ground. No mess! Also a good way to reduce waste.
I agree with your recommendation on that mallet. I saw you or someone on another channel using it, and thought I'd pick one up and try. I now use it *all the time* in my assembly -- it's my go-to mallet. It has just the right heft, and unlike my wooden mallet or dead-blow hammer, doesn't leave any marks. Best of all, it was less than $20.
👍
You can always choke up on it to do chisel work too. I cleaned out a knothole with mine and a 1/4" chisel pretty easily.
I just use scrap piece of wood to lay over the fine piece and than I can use anything to kick it. Maybe easier to use soft mallet but I would be worried about soft woods like spruce if I hit it with harder plastic side or also soft side of the mallet. It's like everything wants to leave marks on spruce.. Too soft for anything that needs nice finish.
@@matejcermak😂🎉
"Would you start a furniture build without a plan" you clearly don't know how many bad decisions I make
Lmao..I also said “yes” out loud to myself at that part of the video
😂
A LOT of very very very good woodworkers don’t use plans at all.
I never use a plan. Some brains don't work like that
Plans are confusing, ill just wing it and remake a few pieces here and there lol
Excellent tips. By the way, the idea of using a ruler for drawing curved lines is very good and has in fact been known for a long time. Such tools were called splines (which has also made its way into the name of parametric curves in modern computer programs, e.g. Bézier splines) and were used in design. Curves determined in this way followed the path of energy minimization, which was of great significance in the design of components, for example, automobile bodies. It's great that you're reminding us of these not necessarily commonly known methods today.
🙌
When/if my Kreg jig wears out or breaks I'm buying one like you showed! That's a very nicely made jig. I just made two new mallets to get an in-between weight for various chiseling work. I have a dead blow hammer for assembly with non-marring faces. Works pretty well. Glad you mentioned MAKING a mallet - I've never bought one (after >40 years woodworking).
I have a couple of rubber/plastic mallets, but there's often no better option than simply holding some scrap wood over the workpiece and hitting that.
Concerning screw storage, I have a toolbox full of clear plastic business card boxes, which have various screws in them. They're all labelled and easily available.
For holding small parts, better to use something like the large flat Milwaukee pack out organizer. When you buy your supplies, keep the labels and put those at the top of the pile in the organizer. With the lid top open take a picture of it and keep it on your notes on your phone. This way it’s always easy for reference and you know roughly the quantity that you have in each organizer so when you’re out at the hardware store and you remember that you wanted to get something else you can quickly go to your image zoom in on it if you need to and get more of the specific item. If you share your notes with other people that work in your shop, everybody can be updated onto the contents of each supply tray. The cool thing about the Milwaukee cases of course is that they are easily pulled from shop to job site and back again.
35+ years ago Craftsman sold a similar drill guide. It didn’t have the angle adjust, but it did allow the rods to extend below the base. That way you slip it over the edge of a board, rotate it until the rods rest on the top/bottom of the board…perfectly centered dowel holes. I still have mine.
If I had waited 30 seconds…the screw in pins do the trick. Nice souped up version of an old idea.
👍
I think that my Drill guide just turned 40 and keeps on going. Bored a LOT of holes with it and set more than a few dowels.
I use magnets to find screws, and that tool looks like an improvement. However, be aware that where edges of drywall meet, the screws will be offset to the left and right at the joints. Also be aware, guys may not sink them in pairs, so that they are next to each other, and they may not center them on the studs, particularly if the framers did not space the studs perfectly.
I've used those little super magnets dangling from a 6" strip of blue tape.
I just bought the kreg 720 pro for $129 on clearance at Lowe’s. I set it up on a 30”x 18” piece of plywood. Complete game changer!!!
nice
Thanks don’t usually get value out of these types of videos but your has been the exception! Worth the watch.
Dude that mallet… I have one too (not estwing tho), and I use it ALL the time. Great for hold-fasts, chisels, persuading metal things… everything. Love it.
If you have access to a maker shop, you can take some acrylic and cut a variety of curves using their laser save them for templates in your shop. Big time saver and it can be very efficient clamp in place for guiding your saw and or router.
For finding studs I use a rare earth magnet, round half inch thick, 3/4 diameter. I keep it on my putty knife in my work vest. When I find a sheet rock screw I also check for sheet rock screws above and below to see if maybe that screw is not centered on the stud. If critical, I'll use an eight inch drill bit and drill through the sheet rock to find the 2 edges of the stud, I'll then know exactly where the center is. Not always necessary but sometimes it is.
One thing about a stud finder; since you cannot guarantee the accuracy of a drywall nail, I use several points along the stud in order to help center any screw. To do this, I use a bunch of small 'super strong magnets'. They not only find nails my stud finders miss, but I can line up a few of them along the stud, and even neighboring studs to get the complete picture. I can leave them there where they clearly mark the studs. When I go to remove them, there's no pencil lines to erase. So much better (and cheaper) than any stud finder I've ever used.
Awesome 👍
Lixie makes the best mallet imo. The flooring version has their two softest heads which are so soft you can hit pine HARD and it wont dent, but still puts a lot of energy into the piece.
Thanks for the recommendation. I've not heard of that!
"In both milimiters and standard measurements"... That made me chuckle.
I usually say millimeters and normal LOL
Milimeter is the Standard.
😬😅😅😀😂
It's all about perspective bud
That's what it is called . Nothing to chuckle about.
Love the way you used the straight edge for curve cutting. Awesome idea. I just had to cut a curve for a bathroom vanity shelf. Wasn't pretty. I was 2 days late for this show.
a couple I made note of two I have "shop built" items that work as well or better than what shown. Nails & screws I made a box with bottom filled box with short lengths of 4" PVC as "holders" "Countrytime" lemonade (which I drank a lot of as a contractor) containers just fit into the PVC. once container is empty, washed and snip off spout on chopsaw. place desired fastener into container, write contents on lid with marker (no need for high ?? label printer) affix lid & place containers in order of size & type into "rings" and hang on wall
2nd. A simple narrow, thin strip of wood and a length of string. Cut bow style notches on sides at one end, tie loop in one end of string, when "arch" is needed affix loop over end into notches, bend wood to desired radius and wrap loose end of string around several times. tied loop gives you quick release with easy repeat.-
Both good ideas!
Franklin Instruments makes the one and only stud finder you should ever use/need. Nothing else compares. It has a bunch of sensors and LEDs so that you can watch a stud pass underneath it, and locate its center, as you move it around. Magnetic stud finders are only as accurate as the placement of the drywall screws, and drywallers are famously not concerned with fine details.
There are a couple of these I need in my life. I work in a small residential cabinet shop and I'm always looking for clever tools/solutions. Using the table saw fence as the router fence adjustment is perfect. We have a big cast iron sawstop table saw in a 10x10 table. But our rarely used router table is trash. Using the extra space, with the good tablesaw fence to adjust the router fence will make me use a router table again. And I'm making a magnetic stud finder today. I already have the materials so thanks for that one too. Also the drill guide was what came to mind first. We don't have a drill press but I have a cheap plastic guide that I just found and started using. Having parallel holes, especially on hardware jigs is so important. Especially when you have to flip the jig and then start using a bigger bit to get everything straight. Think ill upgrade that too.
Finally someone with practical info. Been woodworking for 38 yrs and this is very cool stuff. Thank you
You really should look at batching out those pocket hole jigs on the CNC and selling them. I’d buy one right now!
It's crossed my mind 😁
@@MWAWoodworks update us if you do. I don’t have a CNC and don’t plan on getting one just for that. Haha. But I’ll buy one and I’m sure others would also.
I'll have to figure out how much shipping something that big would be 🤔
Or at least make a shoping list with all the parts (easier to ship, to). Any one of us can, and want to make that MDFboard, with your drawings. I would love to order all your stuff throu you, so figure out som way we can order by simply clicking. Its a jungle out there if you want to find the right parts and I want to make all the clever guids, but it stops there as I can’t find the right parts. Please tell me when you are done with your “easy order”. OK? 😊.
Joa in Sweden.
I'd totally buy one. Unfortunately don't have a CNC to make one myself.
The most common architectural/furniture curves are either arcs, or partial ellipses = where the rate of change increases towards the ends.
If you want an ugly curve, you just bend it to one midpoint and get the greatest rate of change in the middle. As in this video. In tight curves like some turnings of boat hulls this is a useful curve, but it is an ugly curve in most furniture. For uses like knee cutouts, or the edge of a table, arcs are most common, and a simple way to bend a ruler for those is:
If you want to get an arc with that ruler trick, you need several reference point. Take 4. Your mid height (take 1 inch in this case), At the ends you have a height of 0 intermediate points moving outward from the center by 1/4 are .93, .73, .42. You can make any arc you want by multiplying the deflection by those numbers. So if you wanted a height of 5 inches it would be 5 in the middle, 0 at the ends, and the first station would be .93x5=4.65, etc...
Great tool tips.
One thing to consider on the Stud Buddy, if you are at a Drywall Butt Joint the screw will be in the 3/4 half of the 1.5 inch stud. So it won't be in the center.
True! but I'm not sure I care? Why do I need to be exactly in the center?
@MWAWoodworks for pictures, it's probably no big deal, but if it is a big TV wall mount, then only catching a half of the stud with a 3/8 lag may be problematic.
Regardless, it's a good tool for finding a stud.
My thermal printer is the best thing I’ve bought in years practically. That along with some small bags or Mylar bags and variety of label sizes… it’s organized stuff so well. Whenever I get extra parts for an item, pop a label on it so quickly or use it to make instructions and pop it on.. I use it several times a day. lol
Wow. All your tools are spotlessly clean. Almost like they never get used. 😊
This…sounds like an insult lmao
mom always said I clean up real nice 😁
There are people who religiously clean everything after each use. I’m not one of those but there are people like that 😂
What a dickless comment
Awesome ! Great video thanks! Stud buddy is great! But remember drywallers don't always put the nails or screws in the center of the stud! Most of the time though!
While using magnetic stud finders it is also useful to find screws above and/or below the first found and use the average line. Just in case, as in every case ever, the screws aren't on the center line.
You can clamp the drill guide to a larger piece of wood, and clamp or attach the wood to your target, increasing your options such as the distance from the edge whilst clamping.
Yep that's true. If you pre drill your hole in the "larger" piece it can also help with tear out. But it does limit the depth of cut you can get so id use maybe 1/2" ply or thinner if possible
Great video
As a cabinet installer myself i found that the
"CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder" is the best out there and much more compact
For years I’ve been using a left handed phillips head screwdriver my dad gave me when I was a kid. I should look into getting myself a right hand one.
Just be aware the right handed ones cost about twice as much 😉
Finally! A buying guide for everyone...not just the super-rich! Thanks a lot. I'm subscribing.
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What, you don’t like guides like “The 10 Festool tools that you absolutely must own if you ever want to do any woodworking”? :)
@@gf2e LOL! Well put!!!
The IJK and the Rocker drill guide is basically a spitting image of each other...
The Rocket is solid and a great premium one also...but the IJK, rocker and Woodpeckers are all pricey.
While they are certainly useful..
Even the best ones pale to almost any drill press.
They are pricey, but not as pricey as an equal quality drill press! A good drill press (one worth buying with the appropriate capacities, features and accuracies) cost between $700 and $2500 and you still couldn't use it on a desk top.😀
Thanks for the great tips. I'm buying a Stud Buddy ASAP because I'm still traumatized from years ago when I drilled and then screwed *four* holes into the bathroom drain pipe for shelf supports. The electronic stud finder indicated it was a perfect 1.5" stud width, so despite my usual careful and skeptical nature, I went with it. *sniffs* Hmm... what's that smell? 😂
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I haven't had to use a stud finder in more than 20 years.
There is a stud every 16 inches. There is a stud in every corner, every door frame and every window frame. Every construction grade tape measure has 16" indicators. Granted if you are dealing with a 100' wall you don't want to do that, but most walls in a house aren't that long.
Haha you know how many times I drove a screw where there was "supposed" to be a stud 16 on center and it wasn't there? Unfortunately there's lots of offsets and other conditions that make this not work out exactly 💯 not to mention 16 inches is not the only standard. You can also have 24 inches on center depending on the size of the home, load bearing requirements and size of the studs (2x4 vs 2x6). Also older homes are a mess. They don't follow any standards at all.
@@MWAWoodworks lol true. But I've also had stud finders pick up missed studs as well. A lot of drywallers miss as many studs as they hit. But I guess I've been lucky and never missed with measurements.
That Enjoy Wood pocket hole jig also looks super nice. Your jig for for pocket hoke jig is brilliant.
The tools are great, but it’s the artist who uses them to produce the best results. Nice work!
First video of yours I have seen and I love your Kregg alternative! Gave me lots of ideas. Thanks.
Apropos mallets, plastic faced dead blow mallets, in different weights, every time! The multipurpose scribing tool looked interesting too.
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I promised myself no more new tools until I organize my shop. But I like the drill guide! Another broken promise.
I appreciate your honesty 😂
Also what I like is finding out how to make the tools you’re paying for, an example, just get some good magnets instead of stud buddy, bench dogs just cut or make dowels… as tool freaks that we are, quick go out and buy that slick tool…
That UJK drill guide looks pretty nice.
I have a cheaper portable drill guide. I have it attached to a piece of 1/2" plywood to make clamping easier.
The Harbor Freight dead blow hammers work great for assembly. Have a small one for cabinets and a large one for timber framing.
my 9: table saw, router, cnc, co2 laser, jig saw, band saw, lathe, planer and jointer.
I have both a drill guide and a smallish drill press. The guide is most useful for doing angled drilling.
I don’t know your name mate but I have to say that you have just become probably my favourite workshop/woodwork guy on UA-cam. What a wonderful, neat and tidy workshop. I wish I had similar. Thank you so much for posting. I have just subscribed - you’re a keeper!! Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
The handle of my Craftsman hammer has a thick rubber cap on the end, which is perfect for tapping parts into place, without needing to drag around another tool.
Always nice to keep a regular stud buddy around or sometimes called stud Daddy!!
This roundup is fanatic! I’ll definitely be using your links this upcoming Black Friday weekend.
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Have you seen the Kreg one with a lazer. Also has magnets but has a lazer so you can see how the entire stud runs in the wall and level too.
As for the studs landing on 16" or 24", it all depends on what type of crew built and drywalled the house. If it's a Mexican crew (nothing against them.) then it will usually be around 19" on center. You can see this on your tape, it's marked with a diamond. This is because Mexican drywall crews ALWAYS use 10' sheets of drywall, laid horizontally. This measurement allows a 10' sheet to end on a stud, without cutting 2' off the end. I've done plenty of repair to houses in the south only to find studs around 19" apart. And, before someone comes on and says "drywall is supposed to be installed horizontal", uh no it's not. Look at manufacturers remarks on this. They say it should be installed vertically, BUT if the walls are over 9' or are metal studs, you get more support laying them horizontal, but there are no regulations saying you HAVE to. Yes, I've looked it up when I was building a closet add on, and the GC jumped my ass after it was done because I didn't lay the drywall on it's side. The closet was only 8' high, 10' long and 3' deep. He listened to a new hire that WATCHED lots of Mexican crews lay them down on edge, so he thought it was regulation. The new hire didn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. I also caught the new hire going through the home owners mail, in the mail box.
One of the very best videos I’ve seen on useful tools. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!!!
Franklin stud finder works great and it has never lead me astray
Will be buying the flexible straight edge for the same reason I think it's odd to not get a drill press... non-flat surfaces. I guess they're not that common in woodworking but definitely something I have frequently.
For the stud buddy... brilliant. I recently independently had that realization when I had some leftover neodymium magnets. Way more reliable than a typical studfinder.
Yep for sure
Downside of the studbuddy approach is it doesn't guarantee that you find the center of the stud
@@scotth5503 true. However, I think finding a few screws on the same stud will be more reliable than a stud finder… or just just a combination of the two.
I rarely need to worry about finding the exact center of the stud. If I am I probably am removing the drywall and attaching right to the studs like on a floating shelf.
Wood workers make their own mallets just like Jedi make their own light sabers. Super magnets have dozens of good uses in a wood shop , especially those surplus magnets from old hard drives as they already have a mounting bracket .
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I would look for a pocket hole jig with the clamp in the front it makes a big difference in ease of use.
I have all the tools I need, and a smallish workbench, as I only have a single garage which is occupied by the motor vehicle most of the time. I need to get a thick piece of MDF, which I can store against a wall and put on trestles for a larger and, most importantly, a FLAT worktop.
Awesome 👍
Oh, BTW, about the mallet... I made a small one with a softer wood (which I'm not sure what it was exactly, perhaps even some kind of pine) and I use it exactly for that! Works amazingly!
I thought about making a mallet from heart pine and testing it out on plywood. Maybe a future video idea!
@MWAWoodworks Oh, absolutely! 😊
Mine is really simple. It's around 2" x 2" x around 3 1/2"... And I used a 3/4" dowel as the handle. That's all. 😊
I works nicely until it eventually breaks :(. I did one out of pine with inner holes filled with lead to give it weight. It was perfect until it broke.
@@CemKalyoncu Everything breaks eventually, unfortunately.
@@MCsCreationsDefinitely, but this broke within a few months. Maybe I shouldn't have used it on hardwood.
Thanks for the heads up on the tools. I could use most of them. Some now and some to replace others when they need to be. I certainly appreciate it! 😊😊😊
Awesome 👍
The second you mentioned the portable drill guide like 7 pieces clicked into place for me! I was like “of course that’s a thing, how did I never consider that to be a thing before??”
Texted the gf immediately to update the Christmas list 😂
Top tool for me is a track saw, I would’ve been doing much more professional/accurate work earlier on if I got one sooner. Also spraying finishes. General finishes water based/cleanup ONLG
yep I tell new woodworkers to jump in on a track saw. You can get away with not having a table saw for a while if you have a track saw and a miter saw.
"Sandard measurements" : ) Made me smile
Thank you for this video. I’m brand new and have no idea where to start! Now I’m replacing the kregg on my wishlist with the one you recommended ❤
Those are all some nice tips but that #1 is super sweet and a compact option 😳 I will definitely be selling my drill press and buying one of those so I can have more room after 🎉 Thanks for the info ✌️
buying fesstools - but not wanting to spend money on a cheap drill press. If you know someone that works where they ship larger items, ask them to get you a 6ft peice of metal 3 inch banding material - its really straight, very flexable and they throw enough of it away they will be happy to give it to you, I have a pile of magnets that I have had for years, I got a stud buddy as a gift, I either threw it out or gave it away.
Cool story
Great suggestions. I have been wood working for a while now and I don't have most of those useful tools that you have pointed out but suspect I will be getting some of them in the near future.
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Franklin Stud sensor with a magnetic stud sensor as a back - up. Best of both worlds. Quick (Franklin) with a magnetic back up that may be (and often is) at the edge of the stud instead of the middle.
I like the Franklin one. Shows you where the edges of the studs are.
That base and hole pattern on the drill guide makes it look like you could mount it like a router under a table
Dude your Jig for your Jig chefs kiss so perfect!
The ujk drill stand is a great looking tool, however id like to see a side fence on it so you can drill from a given edge
Definitely adding quite a few of these to my list! I framed for years so I love the feel and weight of my framing hammer, with a smooth face, and use a block of the same species of wood I am building with. Seems to never mar the surface and then I don’t have more things laying on my work surface hah
Awesome!
@@MWAWoodworks and then after I say that, I just saw your hammer on sale at the store so I got one to try haha
“In both mm and standart measurements” 😂😂😂. Metric is the standart dude! Just 3 countrys still use imperial 😅
Ha well in my country it's standard and what they actually call it 😂
Thank You for this video. I appreciate all this information. Learned a lot. I would also ask if you could mention where tools are manufactured as part of the description. I ALWAYS seek out the American made tools. Especially if its made of metal. Ill keep watching and subscribe.
I'm a big component on having a drawer with the screws all small boxes. That I have another location that has stores all the big refills boxes
I like that this list include common sense tools, not planers and jointers and dust collection systems. These are all tools and ideas that can be easily transferred to my :shop". Which at this time consists of two shelves in my bedroom closet.
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Dead blow hammers from Harbor Freight or Northern tools would great for assembly. I prefer the dead blow over the rubber type mallets.
Which weight of hammer you like?
@@aayotechnology Multiple weights. Probably the 2lbs\1kg is a good reasonable weight,.
13:50. The absolute best “stud finder” is the Walabot. Not only does it SHOW you the studs, but also pipes, wires, metal and virtually anything hidden below the surface. The magnet device is only as accurate as where the screws are, not always on center. And no, it does not show where copper or PEX pipes are.
Great tips! Love the pocket hole jig platform!
Yeah I have so many ideas for upcoming jigs now!
Cool video! Those are some really useful tools. I really like the portable drill guide! I may pick one up this weekend.
Most excellent advice all around. Thank you so much. Insurance tip is excellent.
Lol thanks!
Do you have a video for that router fence?! I have a similar sawstop setup but am running the sawstop router fence separate from my table saw fence and running into issues - your attached fence idea might just solve them all!
I don't, no. I built it a long time before UA-cam but I may do an explainer video about it like I did for my table saw aux fence
Would love it if you did, glad I found your channel!
I am more impressed with the jig you made than the tools themselves. Nice video.
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I love the pocket hole jig set up and would love to surprise the guys in the workshop with the jig jig (Jigception). do you have a CNC file for the one you made, and would you be happy to share it please?
I have been looking for something to attach my Incra router fence to a 20mm hole system. Thanks for the lead.
Absolutely!
That is the most awesome JIGGIDY JIG !!!!
UJK is cool... better than the one I got somewhere, but agree its a very handy and cost effective tool.
5:00 "What do you call it when you build a jig for your jig?"
JIGCEPTION!
High value information in this video. Thank you for sharing your personal findings, much of it can align with my small garage shop.
Great presentation - lots of useful tools! I saved this video for when I redo/reorganize my garage.