little tip for the top bolts, take out the shifter and stuff and you can run a breaker bar through the hole where the shifter was for better leverage and less bending of the extensions
I saved tons of time, I did not disconnect the exhaust and I did not disconnect the reinforcement frame. I did disconnect the driveshaft flex robber and center of driveshaft only. I used the E14 and E10 sockets only. I used my stomach to lift and install the tranny. 7 working hours for replace the front output shaft seal of manual tranny of 1997 BMW Z3 2.8
Good content. You probably didn’t need to refresh the engine, but would it be easier to pull the entire engine and tranny and do the conversion on engine stand and while refreshing the engine?
not really. all that does is make it easier to remove the trans, but that in itself isnt worth it. I did not remove the intake manifold to do this conversion. pulling the motor with the trans on requires the front end to be off just to make it easier, which is alot of work, requires the intake system and wiring harness to be removed from the engine, and complete disassembly of the cooling system in order to be removed. you still need to drop the exhaust, still need to drop the driveshaft, ext. if you were to refresh the motor then yeah, but to just manual swap the car pulling the motor would add a ton of additional and unnecessary work.
Hey bro I've watched these videos a bunch throughout my swap. I could have sworn on one of them u mentioned something about a reason u should have left the trans attached to the support before pulling. Was there something like this in one of them? Been lookin all over
Hey so I’m doing this but the top 3 bolts are all very hard to get loose so I sprayed them with PB blaster in hope that they become loose by tomorrow do you have any tips for taking them off and if I’m not mistaken only one of the top for is E14 right?
there are 4 E14 bolts in total for the trans. two are on the sides and two are up top, there are 2 E12 bolts for the starter and a couple of E10's on the bottom. as far as cracking them, make sure you are on the bolt with the socket as good as you can get, and a breaker bar comes in handy. if they are old they will be stuck as shit, but you just have to press through.
nahh you got it, just use the proper tools, make sure it is seated on the bolts as best as they can, spray some PB blaster or twister on them a few minutes before you go for it and you will be fine.
you dont have to, they are the same part for the auto cars and manual ones, but I reccomend it simply because you are there and replacing starters is a PITA, so might as well
STARTER REMOVAL TIP- Starter dowel pin is stuck onto tranny. After removing all the transmission bolts & 2 starter bolts, if the transmission refuses to come off it is because the starter dowel pin is still stuck to the transmission. I tried prying from the sides, between tranny & engine and also pounding on the starter itself with intake manifold removed but nothing works. This happened because the starter has a dowel pin on top which plugs into the tranny. To separate the starter, 1). Looking from the back of the transmission, Locate the Dowel pinhole. It is top hole between the two Starter bolts. 2). attach a piece of metal that will fit into the pinhole, onto your long extension. 3). From the back of the transmission, insert the metal long extension into pinhole. 4). Use a hammer and start pounding on the extension, the starter easily backed off the transmission. Just wanted to share my experience in case someone runs into the same issue. I couldn’t find anything on UA-cam or Google.
little tip for the top bolts, take out the shifter and stuff and you can run a breaker bar through the hole where the shifter was for better leverage and less bending of the extensions
That metal brace thingy in-between is held in by a bolt in the front
I saved tons of time, I did not disconnect the exhaust and I did not disconnect the reinforcement frame. I did disconnect the driveshaft flex robber and center of driveshaft only. I used the E14 and E10 sockets only. I used my stomach to lift and install the tranny. 7 working hours for replace the front output shaft seal of manual tranny of 1997 BMW Z3 2.8
That looked a lot easier than I expected. I'm sure lining up the manual transmission will be a pain.
pulling the autotrans is harder than it looks and installing the manual is easier lol
Would you do Rear Main Seal while you are in there too?
This is so awesome guys!
absolutely. I was going to do a rear main replacement DIY for this series, but the rear main on the car was in perfect condition.
Hey I couldn’t find the video for the OB1
I did not see you pull the torque converter bolts. How did you access them?
Good content. You probably didn’t need to refresh the engine, but would it be easier to pull the entire engine and tranny and do the conversion on engine stand and while refreshing the engine?
not really. all that does is make it easier to remove the trans, but that in itself isnt worth it. I did not remove the intake manifold to do this conversion. pulling the motor with the trans on requires the front end to be off just to make it easier, which is alot of work, requires the intake system and wiring harness to be removed from the engine, and complete disassembly of the cooling system in order to be removed. you still need to drop the exhaust, still need to drop the driveshaft, ext. if you were to refresh the motor then yeah, but to just manual swap the car pulling the motor would add a ton of additional and unnecessary work.
Hey bro I've watched these videos a bunch throughout my swap. I could have sworn on one of them u mentioned something about a reason u should have left the trans attached to the support before pulling. Was there something like this in one of them? Been lookin all over
only reason i can think is to hold the trans up before you put the jack on it, other than that theres really no reason to keep it on
wow i didnt think we would get to this part of the series already, making some progress quick
Hey so I’m doing this but the top 3 bolts are all very hard to get loose so I sprayed them with PB blaster in hope that they become loose by tomorrow do you have any tips for taking them off and if I’m not mistaken only one of the top for is E14 right?
there are 4 E14 bolts in total for the trans. two are on the sides and two are up top, there are 2 E12 bolts for the starter and a couple of E10's on the bottom. as far as cracking them, make sure you are on the bolt with the socket as good as you can get, and a breaker bar comes in handy. if they are old they will be stuck as shit, but you just have to press through.
M3NACE thanks man i just sprayed then with Pb blaster today and ima lift the car up more to fit my breaker bar down there
@@alexavila9760 aye man good luck!!
M3NACE she’s off man
@@alexavila9760 hell yeah man good!
Pulling my auto trans, so nervous one of the top bolts are going to strip
nahh you got it, just use the proper tools, make sure it is seated on the bolts as best as they can, spray some PB blaster or twister on them a few minutes before you go for it and you will be fine.
How much torque does your impact wrench has?
Milwaukee claims 1,100 foot pounds lol
Do you have to replace the starter when you manual swap?
you dont have to, they are the same part for the auto cars and manual ones, but I reccomend it simply because you are there and replacing starters is a PITA, so might as well
M3NACE thank you
STARTER REMOVAL TIP- Starter dowel pin is stuck onto tranny. After removing all the transmission bolts & 2 starter bolts, if the transmission refuses to come off it is because the starter dowel pin is still stuck to the transmission. I tried prying from the sides, between tranny & engine and also pounding on the starter itself with intake manifold removed but nothing works.
This happened because the starter has a dowel pin on top which plugs into the tranny.
To separate the starter,
1). Looking from the back of the transmission, Locate the Dowel pinhole. It is top hole between the two Starter bolts.
2). attach a piece of metal that will fit into the pinhole, onto your long extension.
3). From the back of the transmission, insert the metal long extension into pinhole.
4). Use a hammer and start pounding on the extension, the starter easily backed off the transmission.
Just wanted to share my experience in case someone runs into the same issue. I couldn’t find anything on UA-cam or Google.
It's lots of fun
so much fun.