@@M3NACE oh she was greased alright. after about 8 tries or so and only getting 1-2" still out we decided to slowly screw some bolts in and just try to send it. it went,, slowly and we either "got it" or pushed the bearing back hahaha weird it would go into the splines and into the bearing then not want to fully seat. idk e36 ZF onto a '97 328i auto car good video's, been helpful
*FYI* the diameter of the tip of the input shaft must not be greater than 14.8mm or else it will not slide into the bearing. The diameter of the tip of the clutch centering tool measures 14.75mm, so if you're not within that, you will end up with a 3/4"-1" gap to which you may not be able thread the bolts on as a means of pulling the trans in.
I wish I would have waited for this series. I started my 328is auto to manual swap completed all the mechanical work but finished to find out my clutch won’t bleed. I believe now that that the slave cylinder isnt grabbing the transmission fork like it’s supposed too 🙃
sorry to hear that man, luckily its not the hardest fix. also, what is your bleed procedure? my bleed video is dropping tomorrow, make sure to check it out and confirm that you are bleeding it properly.
I did it the 2 man way before getting tired and buying a pressure bleeder. I’ll still check out all the following videos to make sure I didn’t mess anything else out. Great Vids and explanations!
Quinn- Did you replace your selector rod joint on your tranny when you installed it in your car? In this video, it looked like you did not install washers on the DSSR pin when you hooked it onto the tranny which made me think you might have a new one on there that has the bushings that stick out a little from the sides. I got a new one for mine and the DSSR will not fit over those plastic bushings. It looks like they machined the DSSR for the old style (pre-2005) selector joints. Was thinking of filing off the plastic bushings in the joint so they are flush with the edge but then started thinking I should just wait until Monday and call UUC to see what they say. What do you say? Thanks. Pete
this trans was pulled from my droptop, when I did the tranny swap for that car i installed new d-pins and the shifter rod joint. If i remember correctly we modified the rod joint to fit, i dont remember how we did it though. it was almost 2 years ago. the pins and rod joint are not even 2 years old so i didnt bother replacing them. if you are going to file it, I would file it evenly on both sides. shaving it to fit wont hinder its performance, that bushing is just there for stability.
Thanks. Yeah, that is what i did. The DSSR is machined to fit the old style joint that required washers with the BMW link. The new style joint has the spacers built into the joint which is why the DSSR wouldn't fit over it. UUC should add that into the instructions since at this point that old style joint isn't made anymore and you have to modify the new one for the DSSR to fit. Or else they should change the DSSR to work with the new joint and provide inside washers if you have the old type. Getting close with the swap. Clutch, flywheel and PP are on, hoping to get the tranny on today, but I am by myself (no Arthur-tool homie to help like you had..) so it is going to be a challenge. I have the Harbor Freight tranny jack, but it will be tought trying to get the tranny up onto it while under the car (not enough clearnace to roll it under from the front of the car). Will be back to driving a manual E36 M3 soon! Stoked!
Thanks a million bro so how will I know if the head gasket is leaking what signs must I look for ? I just my dipstick and saw no foul play my cousin says once there is oil in the cmaber then the heard is warped ?
I am in the process of doing manual swap. You didn't show how you got the top bolts in. Do you use a long magnet tool? Also, you did not show any torque specs for all the tranny bolts. Does it need to be torque?
Last part of the swap and the trans won't go in.. The spline shaft engages, and it sticks out ¾-1 inch from the engine but it don't want to go in. It's so close and it's driving me insane. Why is it not going in, is there anything I'm missing?
@@quickshiftmyk1695 I was able to get it on. I put the bell housing bolts through the trans and "walk" the transmission onto the crankshaft by tightening each bolt by hand with an extension. I felt zero resistance when doing this, so i knew nothing was misaligned
@@m52goat my issue is that when I tried to put the bolts in to walk It like i usually do with other cars, I’m like 1 hair away from threading It in and It won’t go in any further. I’m thinking the input shaft isn’t aligned on the Plate at all or something.
@@quickshiftmyk1695 Something i did was i very lightly sanded down the splines on the transmission to remove surface deposits. did you use a clutch alignment tool? Is your throwout bearing properly installed? if those are lined up and its still not going in, then try tilting engine or transmission. Only angles will prevent it from not going in.
@@m52goat yes I used the clutch alignment tool n removed It before installing the trans. I made sure the Throwout bearing was installed correctly (most vehicle throw out bearing snaps in and held into place on the fork but I noticed bmws doesn’t which i found odd) the engine is tilted up using a harbor freight engine holder, Im doing It solo so I might have been installing the trans at a tilt rather than aligning It straight/flush with the motor so it’ll go straight in. Im gonna get another set of hands n try again tmrow and will let you know what’s going on. Appreciate the tips.
Hello I want to ask you about Is there a specific number för transmission I have a Bmw e36 328i Can I install the transmission of the BMW E46 330i on the BMW E36 328i for example...
My transmission is like a inch away from being all the way matted to the engine I don’t know what’s off because everything is aligned and on correctly....
@@netoferrr2438 so what I ended up doing was putting a bolt in and tightening it so the transmission sucked in that 1inch when you do this though put a bolt in that you can reach easily so u can make sure it’s working
you can try, they are different part numbers on realoem and im pretty sure the auto bolts are longer than the manual bolts, but if you get them on and they are tight, and the trans is tight on the engine, I dont see why not.
I heard These e36 from 323, uppers most of them has a second gear problem it like grinds I think cause people race perform to hard so they pop the clutch super quick ?
the getrags or the ZF's? I havent heard of any 2nd gear issues, of course if you grind gears and bang shift all the time something is going to go wrong, thats not specific to these transmissions lol
M3NACE bro i trap my clutch problem in but I heard alot of cases like E36 manual shift has a second gear grinding problem, same as Honda has a suspension problem lol
Bro how long does it take for my motor oil to get dirty again cause I just started my car on Saturday and the oil is still clean it's not black reason why I'm asking is cause my fan blade cut one of my water pipe the one from the bottle that goes on the top the radiator so my heat gauge was climbing almost to red so I pulled over let the car cool down filled up water just to get me till home I checked my oil I don't see a mixtures but as I drove the car home I wasn't loosing water the gauge was not climbing it was in the middle and drove the car little hard to test gauge it looks like I just escape a blown head again dude you don't know how my heart is pounding
M3NACE so you think my head gasket is still alright ? What you think I should do ? Do I pull the head to inspect my gasket or do I just reseal my spark plug gasket with rvt gasket maker cause it's new gaskets on, and if I loosen the head can I use the same bolts cause it's also new bolts or do I get new bolts again ?
@@M3NACE looking for a cross-member bracket for ZF 5-speed manual transmission. I have 1999 BMW m3 convertible and Manual transmission is from 1998 BMW m3? can you please email.com me at saadsultan1985@gmail.com
You may want to mention here that this ZF 320z transmission has a known design shifter pin fault. I’d change all the shifter pins before this transmission gets installed . I did this auto to manual swap on my 1998 M3. I bought the transmission from salvage yard. It had less than 70 thousand miles on this manual transmission that I bought so never thought I’d needed to considers this. I must say I also installed a UUC short shift kit at same time so this may have added to my issues. My first test drive I noticed how notchy or difficult it is to get into 1st and 2nd and rev. I thought it may go away after few hundred miles but it hasn’t. Looking into this further I realized this is a very common issue with the ZF 320Z. They now have newer designed shifter pins to correct this issue. So now I’m removing my transmission again to correct this issue. Just wish I had known and corrected this issue before I installed my transmission into this M3. Only way to change these shifter pins is with transmission out of Car. It takes about 1 hour to change them all parts are about 100/dollars. My thought is do it before you install this transmission regardless of what you think just do it. Steve
The tip on tilting the engine just saved my life! Ty bro
i got you fam! awesome! hope the rest of the install goes well bro
Your videos are a big help for me to do the swap on my 325i. Can't wait to shift it! Thanks a lot from Germany.
Of course man!
bro you really ARE one of the best E36 channels
-"Did you feel it go in?"
-"yeah"
-"fuck yeah"
lmao rip
I like how it just slides right in for you.... my shaft is going into my flywheel but not the bearing. Pitd
Gotta want it lol, lots of grease on the shaft helps.
@@M3NACE oh she was greased alright. after about 8 tries or so and only getting 1-2" still out we decided to slowly screw some bolts in and just try to send it. it went,, slowly and we either "got it" or pushed the bearing back hahaha weird it would go into the splines and into the bearing then not want to fully seat. idk
e36 ZF onto a '97 328i auto car
good video's, been helpful
Bro I think you just saved me I highly appreciate it I run to first everything concerning my engine and apply your advice
*FYI* the diameter of the tip of the input shaft must not be greater than 14.8mm or else it will not slide into the bearing. The diameter of the tip of the clutch centering tool measures 14.75mm, so if you're not within that, you will end up with a 3/4"-1" gap to which you may not be able thread the bolts on as a means of pulling the trans in.
Very important and amazing explanation! Thank you very much!
Yo menace i appreciate your diy series its the shit! Following step by step almost done 💪
aye thank you man!
I wish I would have waited for this series. I started my 328is auto to manual swap completed all the mechanical work but finished to find out my clutch won’t bleed. I believe now that that the slave cylinder isnt grabbing the transmission fork like it’s supposed too 🙃
sorry to hear that man, luckily its not the hardest fix. also, what is your bleed procedure? my bleed video is dropping tomorrow, make sure to check it out and confirm that you are bleeding it properly.
I did it the 2 man way before getting tired and buying a pressure bleeder. I’ll still check out all the following videos to make sure I didn’t mess anything else out. Great Vids and explanations!
thanks! good luck man!
can you do a video on how you jacked the car up like that that gives so much room bro please show how you did it
Quinn- Did you replace your selector rod joint on your tranny when you installed it in your car? In this video, it looked like you did not install washers on the DSSR pin when you hooked it onto the tranny which made me think you might have a new one on there that has the bushings that stick out a little from the sides. I got a new one for mine and the DSSR will not fit over those plastic bushings. It looks like they machined the DSSR for the old style (pre-2005) selector joints. Was thinking of filing off the plastic bushings in the joint so they are flush with the edge but then started thinking I should just wait until Monday and call UUC to see what they say. What do you say? Thanks. Pete
this trans was pulled from my droptop, when I did the tranny swap for that car i installed new d-pins and the shifter rod joint. If i remember correctly we modified the rod joint to fit, i dont remember how we did it though. it was almost 2 years ago. the pins and rod joint are not even 2 years old so i didnt bother replacing them. if you are going to file it, I would file it evenly on both sides. shaving it to fit wont hinder its performance, that bushing is just there for stability.
Thanks. Yeah, that is what i did. The DSSR is machined to fit the old style joint that required washers with the BMW link. The new style joint has the spacers built into the joint which is why the DSSR wouldn't fit over it. UUC should add that into the instructions since at this point that old style joint isn't made anymore and you have to modify the new one for the DSSR to fit. Or else they should change the DSSR to work with the new joint and provide inside washers if you have the old type. Getting close with the swap. Clutch, flywheel and PP are on, hoping to get the tranny on today, but I am by myself (no Arthur-tool homie to help like you had..) so it is going to be a challenge. I have the Harbor Freight tranny jack, but it will be tought trying to get the tranny up onto it while under the car (not enough clearnace to roll it under from the front of the car). Will be back to driving a manual E36 M3 soon! Stoked!
Thanks a million bro so how will I know if the head gasket is leaking what signs must I look for ? I just my dipstick and saw no foul play my cousin says once there is oil in the cmaber then the heard is warped ?
Hello, When you're tilting the engine do you need to loosen any motor mounts? I don't think so but want to be sure before I tackle this job.
You dont need to no, if you are running poly/stiffer motor mounts i would recommend it.
@@M3NACE Stock rubbers for now, thanks for the info. Eventually I'll be doing a full poly setup once this car shifts into a turbo weekend warrior.
Good video simple easy to understand. 😍
I am in the process of doing manual swap. You didn't show how you got the top bolts in. Do you use a long magnet tool?
Also, you did not show any torque specs for all the tranny bolts. Does it need to be torque?
Get them good and tight, doesnt need to be torqued. Also, just reach up there and pop the top bolts it
Last part of the swap and the trans won't go in.. The spline shaft engages, and it sticks out ¾-1 inch from the engine but it don't want to go in. It's so close and it's driving me insane. Why is it not going in, is there anything I'm missing?
Literally struggling on this part.
@@quickshiftmyk1695 I was able to get it on. I put the bell housing bolts through the trans and "walk" the transmission onto the crankshaft by tightening each bolt by hand with an extension. I felt zero resistance when doing this, so i knew nothing was misaligned
@@m52goat my issue is that when I tried to put the bolts in to walk It like i usually do with other cars, I’m like 1 hair away from threading It in and It won’t go in any further. I’m thinking the input shaft isn’t aligned on the Plate at all or something.
@@quickshiftmyk1695 Something i did was i very lightly sanded down the splines on the transmission to remove surface deposits.
did you use a clutch alignment tool? Is your throwout bearing properly installed? if those are lined up and its still not going in, then try tilting engine or transmission. Only angles will prevent it from not going in.
@@m52goat yes I used the clutch alignment tool n removed It before installing the trans. I made sure the Throwout bearing was installed correctly (most vehicle throw out bearing snaps in and held into place on the fork but I noticed bmws doesn’t which i found odd) the engine is tilted up using a harbor freight engine holder, Im doing It solo so I might have been installing the trans at a tilt rather than aligning It straight/flush with the motor so it’ll go straight in. Im gonna get another set of hands n try again tmrow and will let you know what’s going on. Appreciate the tips.
Cool write-up bro. I wish you had more lighting underneath so we can see better.
How do you know if the starter gear is sitting/ aligned with the flywheel gear? After installing the bell housing it’s hard to know if it’s good.
If it sits flush its good.
Hello I want to ask you about
Is there a specific number för
transmission
I have a Bmw e36 328i
Can I install the transmission of the BMW E46 330i on the BMW E36 328i for example...
My transmission is like a inch away from being all the way matted to the engine I don’t know what’s off because everything is aligned and on correctly....
What was the issue I’m having the same problem rn
@@netoferrr2438 so what I ended up doing was putting a bolt in and tightening it so the transmission sucked in that 1inch when you do this though put a bolt in that you can reach easily so u can make sure it’s working
Also!! I greased up the pilot bearing and spline that goes into the motor
@@wasabikawasaki4769 thanks for answering, I did the same thing! I was just scared of doing that, but it worked! 👍
M3NACE bad new gasket is gone spark plugs is full of oil do I need to machine the head again ? Or just replace the gasket ?
King Ryan what did you end up doing
Can we use the bolts off of the automatic transmission?
you can try, they are different part numbers on realoem and im pretty sure the auto bolts are longer than the manual bolts, but if you get them on and they are tight, and the trans is tight on the engine, I dont see why not.
Awesome tutorial
Do the autos have the shifter carrier bushings there already?
No, you will need to install one, i cover this in misc install video in the playlist.
I heard These e36 from 323, uppers most of them has a second gear problem it like grinds I think cause people race perform to hard so they pop the clutch super quick ?
the getrags or the ZF's? I havent heard of any 2nd gear issues, of course if you grind gears and bang shift all the time something is going to go wrong, thats not specific to these transmissions lol
M3NACE bro i trap my clutch problem in but I heard alot of cases like E36 manual shift has a second gear grinding problem, same as Honda has a suspension problem lol
And a cluster problem is common
All I've heard that later e36s rear subframes tend to tear up they remidied that from factory other than that haven't heard much problems
Bro how long does it take for my motor oil to get dirty again cause I just started my car on Saturday and the oil is still clean it's not black reason why I'm asking is cause my fan blade cut one of my water pipe the one from the bottle that goes on the top the radiator so my heat gauge was climbing almost to red so I pulled over let the car cool down filled up water just to get me till home I checked my oil I don't see a mixtures but as I drove the car home I wasn't loosing water the gauge was not climbing it was in the middle and drove the car little hard to test gauge it looks like I just escape a blown head again dude you don't know how my heart is pounding
I would change the oil. any time your engine overheats the oil temp rises above the operating temp of the oil and causes damage to the oil.
M3NACE thanks buddy I'm going to this tomorrow
M3NACE bad new gasket is gone spark plugs is full of oil do I need to machine the head again ? Or just replace the gasket ?
sounds like you didnt properly install the Valve cover gasket. a blown headgasket wont leak oil into the spark plug wells.
M3NACE so you think my head gasket is still alright ? What you think I should do ? Do I pull the head to inspect my gasket or do I just reseal my spark plug gasket with rvt gasket maker cause it's new gaskets on, and if I loosen the head can I use the same bolts cause it's also new bolts or do I get new bolts again ?
Did you jack up your motor on the front pulley with wood blocks so it's easier at the back to put the transmission in?
Yup! It tilts the rear of the engine down to make the trans line up easier.
Hi need some help buying 1999 bmw m3 convertible parts for auto to manual swap because my zf 5 speed transmission is from a 1998 bmw m3. please help
what is your question my friend?
@@M3NACE looking for a cross-member bracket for ZF 5-speed manual transmission. I have 1999 BMW m3 convertible and Manual transmission is from 1998 BMW m3? can you please email.com me at saadsultan1985@gmail.com
i thought you have to torque transmission bolts on
theoretically every bolt should be torqued, but some bolts it's not as critical. tight is tight.
You may want to mention here that this ZF 320z transmission has a known design shifter pin fault. I’d change all the shifter pins before this transmission gets installed . I did this auto to manual swap on my 1998 M3. I bought the transmission from salvage yard. It had less than 70 thousand miles on this manual transmission that I bought so never thought I’d needed to considers this. I must say I also installed a UUC short shift kit at same time so this may have added to my issues. My first test drive I noticed how notchy or difficult it is to get into 1st and 2nd and rev. I thought it may go away after few hundred miles but it hasn’t. Looking into this further I realized this is a very common issue with the ZF 320Z. They now have newer designed shifter pins to correct this issue. So now I’m removing my transmission again to correct this issue. Just wish I had known and corrected this issue before I installed my transmission into this M3. Only way to change these shifter pins is with transmission out of Car. It takes about 1 hour to change them all parts are about 100/dollars. My thought is do it before you install this transmission regardless of what you think just do it.
Steve
How much would a mechanic quote me if I take it to a shop with parts?
Take it to a mechanic and ask for a quote
@@ryanmedcalf6957 the mechanic said “not worth it”