Just bought a Milwaukee 2904-20 Drill that was loud and whining. I found it to be mainly the Fan. Was EZ repair. Took the back off, pulled Fan and Armature out, clipped all Fan Blades at 45-degree angle with Dikes. I then put a couple drop of super Glue in the end cap where the outside of the Bearing sits and pushed the Bearing and Armature into the Cap. Put Armature and Cap assembly back in turning the Chuck to help things line up, then putting the 4 Screws back on. I then put an Emery Board thru the vent while running at high speed to make all Fan Blades uniform. Now it is no louder than my 2902-20 Drill. Air flow is still great. I put a Zip Tie on the Trigger and ran it until Battery was dead. IT RUNS COOLER AND QUIETER. You don't have to return it, but it would be nice if someone would post a Video of this.
Got a trick for ya ON the gen 3 clint When you tighten the gen 3 chuck down back the chuck backwards 1 click it should Lock the bit into place its a secret Feature most tooless chucks have tighten the chuck till it stops ratcheting then back it off 1 click @Tool Review Zone
I have the gen 3.5 impact and that was an upgrade from gen2. That upgrade was massively noticeable! I don’t think I’ll have the same experience moving up to gen4.
The LED's, 2 ball bearings, and trigger on the impact are worth it for me. And the chuck alone on the hammer drill justifies that upgrade. I hate the chuck on the Gen 3!
Same I was on the fence with what I was going to get been rocking the Gen 3s for a few years now and I've just got used to the impact but not coming out because of the college and the bet on my hammers real falling out every time I use them
You have 1-4 settings on the impact because it’s a one key. Regular impacts have the same auto function as the gen 4 impact. No change with the speed control.
With your chuck coming undone. Once you have tightened it turn it back slowly a little bit until you hear it click. That’s the chuck locking shut. Will probably solve your issue.
I still own a gen 3 and I am very well aware of the locking mechanism and it still loosens up constantly... I don't have the same issue with my m12 hammer drill but the m18 gen 3 has been nothing but a headache.
I kind of feel like this was Milwaukee's way of keeping all the Milwaukee guys including myself pacified until they come out with some kind of technology whether it be pouched cell batteries or a larger voltage line AKA battery platform or something that's really going to set that bar back up high like it should be
I sorta feel the same way brother. As mentioned, I'm not blown away with these Kentucky. I'm glad they fixed some of the issues on the new, but I was wanting more I guess
@@ToolReviewZone yeah I love the lights and look of em but I wanted more power or at least ouch cells. I truly feel since they are falling behind that they might become kinda like Makita
If you actually locked the chuck by tightening all the way THEN twist the chuck back a degree counter clockwise and you'll feel the chuck rest in a detent for the locked position. The tightening sleeve on the chuck is then locked as well as the Jaws. Then your bit will never come out.
I have have noticed that the gen 3 have the magnetic bit holder or what it’s called down to the right but gen 4 doesn’t have that is the something that I can put on or did they take that away, because I really like that?
Very nice impact I’ve had one die on me a week into using it the trigger gave out and soon enough the motor blew out due to continuous use for about 5 1/2 hours soon bought the dewalt DCF845 it’s been a year I abuse the thing for 6-8 hours a day and she’s still going strong covered in sewage drywall dust paint and all and never had a problem still using it with the original 5ah XR battery dewalt all the way
Someone analogue switches and physical buttons are just better. My mom bought an air conditioner that has a touch pad a couple years ago. Half the time the touch pad won’t respond if your fingers are the slightest bit wet. Also, so all the the lettering is work off, and whiteout that, you can’t really tell where the buttons are supposed to be. So, she used a sharpie to write what buttons are where, but she still has the issue of lack of responsiveness. Personally, in cases like that, I’m fine with switches and buttons.
only complaint on this is that for storing all on the case you need to keep the batteries attached to the toll which is not recommended because get damaged if you need to store for some period of times, this force you to buy the battery holders to keep them safe
I've had a gen 2 for years now. And been looking to upgrade for a few years. But the horror stories I've seen with gen 3 impacts and Chucks held me off for a while. Glad they made those little improvements, and came out with the gen 4 finally. Now the hard part is finding a set. Hopefully it's worth it
Hopping from gen 2, I would say yes! Haven't had any complaints with the gen 4 so far. If you currently have gen 3's especially with the gen 3.5 impact (or the surge impact), I would wait till either if there's a sale or you really had to replace cause of damage, wear and tear etc.
@ToolReviewZone what model of gen 3 hammer drill do you have? Because I got mine in combo kit 2997-22 and mine does not have a digital button for modes?!??
I bought the gen 4 impact drill later to realize it was a surge impact 😶 was gonna return it back but dam I'm liking this surge not what I wanted but dam wasn't expecting such a suprise
My hammer drill doesnt have the speed settings by the battery, im guessing its technically a gen 3.5? My collet does spin if its wide open but ive never lost a bit or had the clutch change. I dont adjust my settings much, maybe it could become an issue once they're broken in a bit more.
My gen 3 hammer drill does not have buttons at the bottom, seems like it is a one key version thing? Im wondering if the normal gen 3 has the clutch slipping issue. Also VCG showed the gen 4 ran 25 deg F hotter than the gen 3 which might something to consider
That’s strange my half-inch hammer drill GEN three only has the settings on top it does not have settings on the bottom like the impact. I wish UA-cam would let people post pictures in the comment.
@@randymathews3348 it has to be, more control options in app with OneKey. I also have the Gen 3 2804 non one key and I only have the setting 1-2 on the top.
My Gen 3 impact doesn't have 4 speed settings it has the same as the Gen 4. And the Gen 3 Hammer Drill doesn't have digital settings on the front. Where'd you get those?!
How’s that kitchen holding up for you man?! See you’ve grown HUGE as a channel since I’ve been on here last. Props to you, that’s awesome. You’re videos kill it.
Were you able to trigger the safety stop just to test it out? I tried flicking the drill and while it worked the first couple times it suddenly stopped doing it and now I’m worried that my hammer drill may be defective.
My gen 3 has two ball bearings , but I think they it's considered gen 3.5 not 3.0 , like the one's with the single bearing in the "collet"I think it's called .
The XC5.0 is limited to 720W (20A x 2 x 18V) while the high outputs can do 1620W (45A x 2 x 18V)). Those 5.0 limiting these drills from meeting the power demanded by the motor. If you see them trading blows too it is likely the where their torque curves land based on being power limited since they likely have very similar curves. It's near the end top of the curve where you should see the 4th gen break away in terms of speed. Still a good video which shows the generation differences based on the 5.0 batteries.
No high output M18 battery besides the 12.0 reaches over 1600W and you're never going to want to use that battery on this drill if you can help it. 6.0/8.0 cap out around 1260W, 3.0 CP is 630W. Milwaukee uses Samsung 30T and 40T. whatever spec you've found is either wrong or from a cell nobody in the power tool industry wants anything to do with due to inadequate cycle life. ex: Molicel. Nobody uses Molicels in power tool packs. Vast majority source from Samsung, LG, Sanyo or Murata. Molicel 21700s rated @ 45A are a product primarily for Vape Lords. And the P42A are Made in Taiwan. Where as most/all Milwaukee cells are sourced from South Korea or Singapore which is where Samsung's chem facilities are located. Printed right on the bottom of their packs, even just checked my 8.0s. Don't need to open them to know they're going to be a Samsung 40T rated at 30-35A CDR. This class of drills and drivers don't pull enough power to see any real consistently useful gains either, and you're taking on extra size/weight as a trade-off. Past 40A you're already in the land of diminishing returns where your only real benefits are coming from lessened voltage drop. Tools like these don't have large enough motors to consistently ask for 1,000 some watts for any useful length of time.
TTI did a switch with the three light LED pass older design on Ridgid if you look at their new Max output impact driver it kind of looks like the Gen 3 and the hammer drill looks like a Milwaukee
Yo Clint! You're "gen 3" model has 4 speeds plus an auto-mode. I've had 3 of them plus a "gen 3.5" and they're ALL 3 speeds with auto-mode. What model number is yours? Mine are/were all 2853-20. I'm curious as all get out! 🤔
That’s real nass like Clint! I have the Gen 3 hammer drill and impact driver. Both tools have served me well and I don’t see any reason to upgrade, since I only use them sporadically around the house. Anyway, very nice comparison. You’re a beast cuz 👊👊👊
I always tighten down on my chuck then do a slight turn in the opposite direction, that should lock it and stop the power of the drill and weight of the bit causing it to loosen.... Try it if it works then thumbs up👍
It amazes me that reviewers are shocked when they don't get a huge upgrade in power. I mean, until some company puts the Flux capacitor in a drill, how much stronger can they get?
Finally someone with some rational thinking. There isn't an infinite amount of more power available with the same size. All the brands are using great quality brushless motors, you can't just magically get more torque out of them without raising the price range significantly. From what I saw, the Gen 4's reduced the head length and kept the same power. Improved triggers and lighting on the impact, improved safety and switch design (and went back to mechanical clutch) on the hammer drill. How is that not a win for the same price?
Great review. Real naas like. Thanks Clint 👍🏻. I’ve got the gen 3.5 impact with the two collett bearings and will stand pat. I’ve got a decent hammer drill and don’t see anything major there to make me pick up the gen 4 hammer drill but I’ll check for more reviews on them as they get out there. Thx again
I have the Gen 3 2804 hammer drill and had the 2607 brushed Milwaukee hammer drill. I can’t stand the Gen 3 because the chuck is always dropping bits, same with the previous brushed hammer drill. I’ve noticed when the drill stops, it stops to quick along with a metal on metal slapping sound and loosens the bits. So I switched to Dewalt and I have never had that problem. My 40v XGT Makita drops bits sometimes. 👊🏻👊🏻
Already have a 2804 but looking to get a second drill. I can get the gen 3 or gen 4 in a kit for the same price on sale right now. I've Already ordered a 6.0 high output battery so I'm thinking I might as well go with a gen 4 to get something better. 200 more inch pounds is roughly 16% more power. Add that to a 6ah high output and there should be a noticeable difference i would hope.
Gen 3 drill, try tightening it till the ratcheting stops the back it off 1/8 turn, you should feel a slight release in the chuck tightness. Most drill chucks have a locking mechanism that most people don’t know about. 🤫
Is it worth coming from the Gen 2? My dad now needs to hit his drill with a hammer to get it to switch and it’s so old there’s no parts. I already preordered the new m12’s they do everything I do.
Will have to take another look tomorrow at the one I go to here in ct they didn’t have any at the one a town over. Love the vid thanks for the great info loved it 👍🏻👍🏻
Gen 3 is working fine for my light duty honey do stuff around the house. At one time, a person could switch out/upgrade the chuck on these tools. Can a Gen 4 chuck be placed on a Gen 3 drill?
Question, how good is that auto stop? I'm an industrial electritian and constantly up on lifts and ladders and in tight spaces, and most of the time drilling through metal. So I've been waiting for a tool company to put this on a a drill for a long time now. So does it actually work? And I've noticed that with my gen 3 with the chuck thought I just had a minor defact in the drill. Hasn't bothered me to much but enough that I notice it, it's never stoped me from doing my job and that's even drill through stainless steel. It would be nice to not have to deal with that issue
It does not work that well. It only kicks in under extreme circumstances, and sometimes not at all. I was hoping it would work like the Bosch SDS's and immediately stop when it binds up, but the gen4 needs the drill to actually break loose first, which kind of defeats the purpose.
@@dcl97 got ya, thanks for the info was debating if I wanted to invest in the gen4 as my gen 3's only about 8 months old. I drill a lot of stainless steel and metal
The auto stop works well on my gen 4 m18 fpd3 but it can be turned off easily by pressing the trigger 5 times with the trigger locked the stop light lights up then fades off, then turn it back on the same way but the stop light blinks to show it's on.
Is it true that impacts gain some power after being “broken in” a bit? Someone else mentioned that, hadn’t heard it before. Great detailed comparison, Clint. Thank you.
Had my gen 1 drill since around 2015 and it's been used daily since then since I work in the trades. It finally fell apart when drilling an 8" hole with a core drill through concrete. Might be worth an upgrade.
Gen 3 chuck, do it up then one click back locks it so it dont loosen when the brake comes on. Altho saying that we have 3 of them at work and 2 of them loosen and drop bits its only my one that dont. Think it is an issue with the chucks them selfs As for the wrist breaker mode thing i prefer the drills without it.... If you really need it put it on number 14 on the torque clutch and it acts the same as an anti wrist breaker mode.... Personally drilling stainless and brass i like the wrist breaker function as it just keeps going when the bit goes through rather than petering out and leaving a huge burr Personally had gen 1 ( still got it) and gen 3 and the brushed versions. If i could warrent it i would still have my loktor 18 volt nicd drill as that was a beast. Cant see any of the newer drills taking the amount of abuse that i used to throw at that thing. That thing used to do a 4 inch core bit through brick and breezeblock, yes it got hot but just kept going
I have gen 3.0...rarely use it I however use the surge way more instead I have gen 3 drill as well... the chuck is all rust out.... I might be wrong here but for better results on HO batteries it has to be 8ah and up....
Gen 3 stuff is on sale, those are the real deals, the ones to buy. M12 - improvements on the ergonomics, that was my biggest gripe with gen 2 drill/ driver.
I had the same problem with my gen 3 hammer drill, I thought that it was a Chuck problem... No, it wasn't a problem I guess only after spraying 40 WD to the Chuck my hammer drill was like new. I supposed this is due to lack of lubricant or something.
Clint I simply can’t afford to change things I already have just to have a gen 4. But that 4x6 must have cost you 80,000 bucks. You’re evil twin what’s he doien behind the trees ? Video is real Nass Like.
I just got a Gen 3 One-key hammer drill/driver 2806-20 as an upgrade from my regular gen 3 hammer drill/driver and it has the anti kickback technology. *It's not a Gen 4
On most drills if you tighten the Chuck nice and tight then give a slight turn in the loosen direction you’ll feel a click which locks it in place so it doesn’t open up 👍🏻
I think they are doing the same thing DeWey did with the 845. They are calling it an "upgrade" in order top get rid of a design flaw without admitting there was a design flaw. Red Gen 3 had the collate problem. DeWey 887 had the...well...blowing up in your hand problem. Out come the Gen 4 and the 845 which, spec for spec are no better than their predecessors at all, but they both have the previous design flaws fixed. It's an attempt to get everybody off of their ass, without causing everyone who never noticed the flaws to return their tools.
Your gen 3 impact and hammer drill must be old because my gen 3 impact has the 3 speed modes with the drill mode and my hammer drill has no buttons on it but has the auto kickback feature
youre problem with the chuck is you are not locking it, tighten chuck on arbor then turn chuck back opposite direction till you feel a click. locked in will help you with loosing youre bits...
I font know the correct term for them but i have pressure sores ! Or something from years of using the gen 3 impact driver at the base of my thumb that pushes up against the tool . It hurts like hell when im using it .it seems like p;"s poor ergonomical design work !and the gen 3 chuck opening happens to me all the time on mine . Plus the impact driver often still runs in forwatd 1st time i pulll the trigger after putting tool into reverse ! Ive had some real problems with my mileaukee tools
A good test for those Milwaukee impact driver & Hammond drill both generations are good she got the Gen 3 you'll be fine it's still handle a variety of tasks how's the retention when you put bits in the impact driver other than Gen 4 gen 3 had that issue with bits falling out what people call version 3.5 of that they added a second ball inside to retain the bits
i got the gen 4 tools after my van was broken into and my tools were stolen. 3 months in and my impact busted (chuck froze up, wouldnt spin, just kept hammering away), and the drill just feels like shit compared to my old gen 3 i used to have. drilled some vent penetrations, sucked a bunch of gunk inside, and made the trigger extremely gummy (ive done the same thing hundreds of times with the gen 3, never had that happen before). all in all, id take the gen 3 1000% of the time over the gen 4, even though the lights on the impact are so much nicer
After you tighten the chuck on the drill you turn it back a click to engage the chuck lock. Most people don't know about locking drill chucks. Probably why the bit fell out.
I have other brands so not really an experienced user. I dont use large bits often so I think I would be searching for clearance gen 3s if I was in the market
Milwaukee just pulled an apple move. "Here is the new iPhone peasants, it's the same as the old one but we know you are all going to buy it anyways"
Lol I have gen 3, definitely not about to buy a new set
👊🤣🤣🤣
Nailed it.
So we do get fooled again,jeje
Yet everyone complains about dewalt not doing this every year.
Just bought a Milwaukee 2904-20 Drill that was loud and whining. I found it to be mainly the Fan. Was EZ repair. Took the back off, pulled Fan and Armature out, clipped all Fan Blades at 45-degree angle with Dikes. I then put a couple drop of super Glue in the end cap where the outside of the Bearing sits and pushed the Bearing and Armature into the Cap. Put Armature and Cap assembly back in turning the Chuck to help things line up, then putting the 4 Screws back on. I then put an Emery Board thru the vent while running at high speed to make all Fan Blades uniform. Now it is no louder than my 2902-20 Drill. Air flow is still great. I put a Zip Tie on the Trigger and ran it until Battery was dead. IT RUNS COOLER AND QUIETER. You don't have to return it, but it would be nice if someone would post a Video of this.
Got a trick for ya ON the gen 3 clint When you tighten the gen 3 chuck down back the chuck backwards 1 click it should Lock the bit into place its a secret Feature most tooless chucks have tighten the chuck till it stops ratcheting then back it off 1 click @Tool Review Zone
I have the gen 3.5 impact and that was an upgrade from gen2. That upgrade was massively noticeable! I don’t think I’ll have the same experience moving up to gen4.
The LED's, 2 ball bearings, and trigger on the impact are worth it for me. And the chuck alone on the hammer drill justifies that upgrade. I hate the chuck on the Gen 3!
Same I was on the fence with what I was going to get been rocking the Gen 3s for a few years now and I've just got used to the impact but not coming out because of the college and the bet on my hammers real falling out every time I use them
Same. I’ll think I’ll just go with the Gen 4 Impact Driver (tool only) and keep my Gen 3 Hammer Drill until it drives me crazy. 🤷🏻♂️
You have 1-4 settings on the impact because it’s a one key. Regular impacts have the same auto function as the gen 4 impact. No change with the speed control.
Same thing with the drill. He was using one key model because my gen 3 doesn’t have those buttons behind the light.
Your twin brother has good judgment, he doesn’t like you either!
Vance!
That's not very NICE VANCE 😪
With your chuck coming undone. Once you have tightened it turn it back slowly a little bit until you hear it click. That’s the chuck locking shut. Will probably solve your issue.
that's exactly it. When he puts it back and tight it up I was like... he didn't lock it!!
Incorrect
@@heeltoe6845 no it’s correct, unless you have something to back it up so we understand your point, but thats how Milwaukee chucks work.
Even locked, I have seen my gen 3 loosen up.
I still own a gen 3 and I am very well aware of the locking mechanism and it still loosens up constantly... I don't have the same issue with my m12 hammer drill but the m18 gen 3 has been nothing but a headache.
I kind of feel like this was Milwaukee's way of keeping all the Milwaukee guys including myself pacified until they come out with some kind of technology whether it be pouched cell batteries or a larger voltage line AKA battery platform or something that's really going to set that bar back up high like it should be
I sorta feel the same way brother. As mentioned, I'm not blown away with these Kentucky. I'm glad they fixed some of the issues on the new, but I was wanting more I guess
They have a 24V line. They're just crazy expensive.
@@ToolReviewZone yeah I love the lights and look of em but I wanted more power or at least ouch cells. I truly feel since they are falling behind that they might become kinda like Makita
@@nerdyned500 who is that??
@@nerdyned500 you talking about the M28 line?? Yes they are expensive and very hard to find I believe
If you actually locked the chuck by tightening all the way THEN twist the chuck back a degree counter clockwise and you'll feel the chuck rest in a detent for the locked position. The tightening sleeve on the chuck is then locked as well as the Jaws. Then your bit will never come out.
I was about to mention that he wasn't locking the chuck.
This works, it took me 3 yrs to figure this out on my Gen 1 drill....slow learner I guess.😉
@@erik34 He actually commented back to say "Always do brother". So, I guess everyone that commented about it saw it wrong or somethin'. Lol.
You shouldn't have to do that every time. It's annoying.
I have have noticed that the gen 3 have the magnetic bit holder or what it’s called down to the right but gen 4 doesn’t have that is the something that I can put on or did they take that away, because I really like that?
Very nice impact I’ve had one die on me a week into using it the trigger gave out and soon enough the motor blew out due to continuous use for about 5 1/2 hours soon bought the dewalt DCF845 it’s been a year I abuse the thing for 6-8 hours a day and she’s still going strong covered in sewage drywall dust paint and all and never had a problem still using it with the original 5ah XR battery dewalt all the way
I wanna see the new M12 drills tested. Please make sure to weigh the drills as well for any changes.
You got it👊
@@ToolReviewZone can't wait.
Someone analogue switches and physical buttons are just better. My mom bought an air conditioner that has a touch pad a couple years ago. Half the time the touch pad won’t respond if your fingers are the slightest bit wet. Also, so all the the lettering is work off, and whiteout that, you can’t really tell where the buttons are supposed to be. So, she used a sharpie to write what buttons are where, but she still has the issue of lack of responsiveness. Personally, in cases like that, I’m fine with switches and buttons.
Agreed brother
only complaint on this is that for storing all on the case you need to keep the batteries attached to the toll which is not recommended because get damaged if you need to store for some period of times, this force you to buy the battery holders to keep them safe
I've had a gen 2 for years now. And been looking to upgrade for a few years. But the horror stories I've seen with gen 3 impacts and Chucks held me off for a while. Glad they made those little improvements, and came out with the gen 4 finally. Now the hard part is finding a set. Hopefully it's worth it
Did u get the sets? Is it worth it now?
Hopping from gen 2, I would say yes! Haven't had any complaints with the gen 4 so far. If you currently have gen 3's especially with the gen 3.5 impact (or the surge impact), I would wait till either if there's a sale or you really had to replace cause of damage, wear and tear etc.
Did you lock the chuck? Tighten all the way and go back one click. Might help the gen 3 chuck issues.
Always brother. I always tighten then one click back 👊
FYI with the gen 3 chuck, once fully tight backoff Quarter of a turn locks it
quick tip to lock the drill so bits won’t come out tighten them and give it a small turn back and you’ll hear a click meaning it’s locked.
Always do brother. Still having the issue
@@ToolReviewZone Damn dood. I just commented this same thing. Please disregard that comment.
@@TheBumpothegreat You should delete your comment.
In one of the Tinker with Tools video of this Gen 4 hammer drill, one of the tests, the drill bit came loose twice.
Good review. Your evil twin is obviously a member of the VCG crew. Those guys man, I swear…..always attacking your greatness….
I know they hang out together brother. They are all the same TJ😪
@@ToolReviewZone lol have we seen your evil twin hanging out with that Vance guy @VCG?
@@smackjack1996 they are very good friends Jack. They both treat me very poorly brother 😪
Both demanding fresh Philly steaks from Philadelphia
Hey Clint, will you be doing a similar review of the new M12 Fuel drill and impact?
@ToolReviewZone what model of gen 3 hammer drill do you have? Because I got mine in combo kit 2997-22 and mine does not have a digital button for modes?!??
I bought the gen 4 impact drill later to realize it was a surge impact 😶 was gonna return it back but dam I'm liking this surge not what I wanted but dam wasn't expecting such a suprise
My hammer drill doesnt have the speed settings by the battery, im guessing its technically a gen 3.5? My collet does spin if its wide open but ive never lost a bit or had the clutch change. I dont adjust my settings much, maybe it could become an issue once they're broken in a bit more.
A 6👊👊👊
On the gen 3. It’s only the one key version that has the speed settings
My gen 3 hammer drill does not have buttons at the bottom, seems like it is a one key version thing? Im wondering if the normal gen 3 has the clutch slipping issue. Also VCG showed the gen 4 ran 25 deg F hotter than the gen 3 which might something to consider
That’s strange my half-inch hammer drill GEN three only has the settings on top it does not have settings on the bottom like the impact. I wish UA-cam would let people post pictures in the comment.
Believe that's the One-Key version
@@randymathews3348 it has to be, more control options in app with OneKey. I also have the Gen 3 2804 non one key and I only have the setting 1-2 on the top.
that's true. One Key versions get those bottom keys, same with DeWalt Tool Connect. Used to have the DCF888 and DCD997 and they had digital keys below
The buttons above battery was only on the one key version..... Pointless in my opinion as you have the trigger and the manual switch on top.
My Gen 3 impact doesn't have 4 speed settings it has the same as the Gen 4. And the Gen 3 Hammer Drill doesn't have digital settings on the front. Where'd you get those?!
How’s that kitchen holding up for you man?! See you’ve grown HUGE as a channel since I’ve been on here last. Props to you, that’s awesome. You’re videos kill it.
Kyle! What's up brotha! Everything is great man. Di an amazing job, and I really appreciate the comment m how is the business going?
Were you able to trigger the safety stop just to test it out? I tried flicking the drill and while it worked the first couple times it suddenly stopped doing it and now I’m worried that my hammer drill may be defective.
Awesome video man thanks. I don’t think I’m upgrading.. Thanks for helping me making this videos
My gen 3 has two ball bearings , but I think they it's considered gen 3.5 not 3.0 , like the one's with the single bearing in the "collet"I think it's called .
As a DIY’r I’m more than happy with my Gen 3’s. Keeping them 👍
The XC5.0 is limited to 720W (20A x 2 x 18V) while the high outputs can do 1620W (45A x 2 x 18V)). Those 5.0 limiting these drills from meeting the power demanded by the motor. If you see them trading blows too it is likely the where their torque curves land based on being power limited since they likely have very similar curves. It's near the end top of the curve where you should see the 4th gen break away in terms of speed.
Still a good video which shows the generation differences based on the 5.0 batteries.
No high output M18 battery besides the 12.0 reaches over 1600W and you're never going to want to use that battery on this drill if you can help it. 6.0/8.0 cap out around 1260W, 3.0 CP is 630W. Milwaukee uses Samsung 30T and 40T. whatever spec you've found is either wrong or from a cell nobody in the power tool industry wants anything to do with due to inadequate cycle life. ex: Molicel. Nobody uses Molicels in power tool packs. Vast majority source from Samsung, LG, Sanyo or Murata. Molicel 21700s rated @ 45A are a product primarily for Vape Lords. And the P42A are Made in Taiwan. Where as most/all Milwaukee cells are sourced from South Korea or Singapore which is where Samsung's chem facilities are located. Printed right on the bottom of their packs, even just checked my 8.0s. Don't need to open them to know they're going to be a Samsung 40T rated at 30-35A CDR.
This class of drills and drivers don't pull enough power to see any real consistently useful gains either, and you're taking on extra size/weight as a trade-off. Past 40A you're already in the land of diminishing returns where your only real benefits are coming from lessened voltage drop. Tools like these don't have large enough motors to consistently ask for 1,000 some watts for any useful length of time.
TTI did a switch with the three light LED pass older design on Ridgid if you look at their new Max output impact driver it kind of looks like the Gen 3 and the hammer drill looks like a Milwaukee
Yo Clint! You're "gen 3" model has 4 speeds plus an auto-mode. I've had 3 of them plus a "gen 3.5" and they're ALL 3 speeds with auto-mode. What model number is yours? Mine are/were all 2853-20. I'm curious as all get out! 🤔
This gen 3 is the one key brotha man 👊👊👊
@@ToolReviewZone Ah! Of course, that explains it. 😎🎸👍
That’s real nass like Clint! I have the Gen 3 hammer drill and impact driver. Both tools have served me well and I don’t see any reason to upgrade, since I only use them sporadically around the house. Anyway, very nice comparison. You’re a beast cuz 👊👊👊
Haha, thanks brother
When is it in store??
Can both be bought together in a kit?
I always tighten down on my chuck then do a slight turn in the opposite direction, that should lock it and stop the power of the drill and weight of the bit causing it to loosen.... Try it if it works then thumbs up👍
Unfortunately, that's just a myth. Even Milwaukee says that doesn't work 🥺
@@ToolReviewZone fair play, many I've tried definitely "click" still give it a go for a laugh, probably placebo effect but I think it helps lol...
So, to step up from Gen 2… straight to Gen 4 or wait for a great deal on the Gen 3’s? I do like the tri led lights and anti kick feature on the 4’s
Great video! When will you “use and abuse” & “slice and dice” with the new M12? Looking forward to seeing the new m12 comparison
It amazes me that reviewers are shocked when they don't get a huge upgrade in power. I mean, until some company puts the Flux capacitor in a drill, how much stronger can they get?
Milwaukee claimed that this was the most powerful drill/impact on the planet at Pipeline. Mayne you just except what these companies tell you 🤔
@@ToolReviewZone Or I know they are all full of it, and every product ever marketed is "The Most Powerful Ever" (in God voice)
Finally someone with some rational thinking. There isn't an infinite amount of more power available with the same size. All the brands are using great quality brushless motors, you can't just magically get more torque out of them without raising the price range significantly. From what I saw, the Gen 4's reduced the head length and kept the same power. Improved triggers and lighting on the impact, improved safety and switch design (and went back to mechanical clutch) on the hammer drill. How is that not a win for the same price?
Great review. Real naas like. Thanks Clint 👍🏻. I’ve got the gen 3.5 impact with the two collett bearings and will stand pat. I’ve got a decent hammer drill and don’t see anything major there to make me pick up the gen 4 hammer drill but I’ll check for more reviews on them as they get out there. Thx again
I have the Gen 3 2804 hammer drill and had the 2607 brushed Milwaukee hammer drill. I can’t stand the Gen 3 because the chuck is always dropping bits, same with the previous brushed hammer drill. I’ve noticed when the drill stops, it stops to quick along with a metal on metal slapping sound and loosens the bits. So I switched to Dewalt and I have never had that problem. My 40v XGT Makita drops bits sometimes.
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Ridgid used to be the worst with that. Glad they fixed the issue on these those
What is the best case use for a hammer drill?
Drilling holes in Concrete for tap cons and such
@@ToolReviewZone that’s what I thought, but I wasn’t sure.
Get a rotory hammer (SDS) drill for concrete if you do it enough. Chuck hammer drills are garbage for concrete
Already have a 2804 but looking to get a second drill. I can get the gen 3 or gen 4 in a kit for the same price on sale right now. I've Already ordered a 6.0 high output battery so I'm thinking I might as well go with a gen 4 to get something better. 200 more inch pounds is roughly 16% more power. Add that to a 6ah high output and there should be a noticeable difference i would hope.
OK I thought this video was decent and then the evil twin was introduced and I instantly subscribed. That’s good shit
🤣🤣🤣
Gen 3 drill, try tightening it till the ratcheting stops the back it off 1/8 turn, you should feel a slight release in the chuck tightness. Most drill chucks have a locking mechanism that most people don’t know about. 🤫
Is it worth coming from the Gen 2? My dad now needs to hit his drill with a hammer to get it to switch and it’s so old there’s no parts. I already preordered the new m12’s they do everything I do.
When will the Milwaukee gen 4 impact be available in stores
Already at the Home Depot 👊
Will have to take another look tomorrow at the one I go to here in ct they didn’t have any at the one a town over. Love the vid thanks for the great info loved it 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video! Your evil twin seems to have a bit of an attitude 😂😂
We never did get along Dusty 😪
Gen 3 is working fine for my light duty honey do stuff around the house. At one time, a person could switch out/upgrade the chuck on these tools. Can a Gen 4 chuck be placed on a Gen 3 drill?
Question, how good is that auto stop?
I'm an industrial electritian and constantly up on lifts and ladders and in tight spaces, and most of the time drilling through metal. So I've been waiting for a tool company to put this on a a drill for a long time now. So does it actually work?
And I've noticed that with my gen 3 with the chuck thought I just had a minor defact in the drill. Hasn't bothered me to much but enough that I notice it, it's never stoped me from doing my job and that's even drill through stainless steel. It would be nice to not have to deal with that issue
It does not work that well. It only kicks in under extreme circumstances, and sometimes not at all. I was hoping it would work like the Bosch SDS's and immediately stop when it binds up, but the gen4 needs the drill to actually break loose first, which kind of defeats the purpose.
@@dcl97 got ya, thanks for the info was debating if I wanted to invest in the gen4 as my gen 3's only about 8 months old. I drill a lot of stainless steel and metal
Might want to check out the 4 gear Festool drill. Very sensitive kickback stop and rpm from 450 to 3500 👍
Seem to works very well if activated. You can activate it by moving the drill fast in your hand
The auto stop works well on my gen 4 m18 fpd3 but it can be turned off easily by pressing the trigger 5 times with the trigger locked the stop light lights up then fades off, then turn it back on the same way but the stop light blinks to show it's on.
What about trigger fail on 3 vs 4 ?
Which drill would make a better boat motor
😎🛠️😎🛠️😎 I'm just glad your special guest wasn't that oompa loompa from vcg 😂🤣😂
He wouldn't visit me Ted, he dislikes me very much 😪
@@ToolReviewZone that's a good thing Clint, you know those oompa loompas, they lure you in with a nice tool and then kill you 😱😱😱
@@tedmcdonald3377 just like that pesky Gnome Ted 😢
Is it true that impacts gain some power after being “broken in” a bit? Someone else mentioned that, hadn’t heard it before. Great detailed comparison, Clint. Thank you.
I guess it's possible. Cars/trucks always run better after the 5k mile break ins
Had my gen 1 drill since around 2015 and it's been used daily since then since I work in the trades. It finally fell apart when drilling an 8" hole with a core drill through concrete. Might be worth an upgrade.
Hahaha ya right!! That thing would’ve burned up first 10 seconds trying to fire drill through concrete!! 😂
Gen 3 chuck, do it up then one click back locks it so it dont loosen when the brake comes on. Altho saying that we have 3 of them at work and 2 of them loosen and drop bits its only my one that dont. Think it is an issue with the chucks them selfs
As for the wrist breaker mode thing i prefer the drills without it.... If you really need it put it on number 14 on the torque clutch and it acts the same as an anti wrist breaker mode....
Personally drilling stainless and brass i like the wrist breaker function as it just keeps going when the bit goes through rather than petering out and leaving a huge burr
Personally had gen 1 ( still got it) and gen 3 and the brushed versions.
If i could warrent it i would still have my loktor 18 volt nicd drill as that was a beast. Cant see any of the newer drills taking the amount of abuse that i used to throw at that thing. That thing used to do a 4 inch core bit through brick and breezeblock, yes it got hot but just kept going
I have gen 3.0...rarely use it
I however use the surge way more instead
I have gen 3 drill as well... the chuck is all rust out....
I might be wrong here but for better results on HO batteries it has to be 8ah and up....
Aww the Evil Twin Back with his Shinanaigans lmfao Clint 🤣 @Tool Review Zone
Sticking with Gen 3.
Besides I like certain Dewalt tools much better now!
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Appreciate the feedback brother
Yo Vince! I mean Clint. Does that 6x6 have any pilot holes?
Haha, noooo pilot holes! 👊🤣
The better lighting is long overdue. Its not complicated to add more lights.
There a refinement of the gen 3. Gen 3 were mind blowing when they came out. It’s hard to top them. I’m a Milwaukee addict so ima buy gen 4 anyway.
My gen 3 has the auto stop too, and my gen 3 drill has no button switches at the bottom
Gen 3 stuff is on sale, those are the real deals, the ones to buy.
M12 - improvements on the ergonomics, that was my biggest gripe with gen 2 drill/ driver.
I had the same problem with my gen 3 hammer drill, I thought that it was a Chuck problem... No, it wasn't a problem I guess only after spraying 40 WD to the Chuck my hammer drill was like new.
I supposed this is due to lack of lubricant or something.
Hmmm, interesting 🤔
Considering all my tools just got stolen I will be grabbing up some of these new milwaukee tools I think I'm gonna go with the m12 combo first though.
Man, sorry to hear that brother
Clint I simply can’t afford to change things I already have just to have a gen 4. But that 4x6 must have cost you 80,000 bucks. You’re evil twin what’s he doien behind the trees ? Video is real Nass Like.
I hear you brother. I'll never tell people they should absolutely upgrade to anything unless it's a complete 180 from what the last gen was
@@ToolReviewZone Your a cool cat.
Still using my gen 2 m18 fuel hammer drill and impact driver don’t wanna give up
I only own m12 impact and drill so I’m excited to buy the 4th Gen m18 drills
I will upgrade my impact : I want the fancy light coz’ I’m always screwing around in dark holes … My gen3 drill works fine
I'm going to wait for the warranty to expire on my gen 3 before upgrading.
So the gen 4 is only for the impact and hammer drill???
I just got a Gen 3 One-key hammer drill/driver 2806-20 as an upgrade from my regular gen 3 hammer drill/driver and it has the anti kickback technology.
*It's not a Gen 4
Just upgraded from gen 1 brushed lmao was going to go with Hercules from harbor frieght but ended up getiting the kit for 250
thank you for the comparison and hope it works for ya!!
Ridgid Ron 👊👊
Can you make a review on gen4 clutch settings... Because gen3 has a clutch issue its overpower even on lowest setting.
The gen 4 switched back to a mechanical clutch, which should fix all of the issues the gen 3 had in low settings
On most drills if you tighten the Chuck nice and tight then give a slight turn in the loosen direction you’ll feel a click which locks it in place so it doesn’t open up 👍🏻
I always do that
I think they are doing the same thing DeWey did with the 845. They are calling it an "upgrade" in order top get rid of a design flaw without admitting there was a design flaw.
Red Gen 3 had the collate problem. DeWey 887 had the...well...blowing up in your hand problem. Out come the Gen 4 and the 845 which, spec for spec are no better than their predecessors at all, but they both have the previous design flaws fixed. It's an attempt to get everybody off of their ass, without causing everyone who never noticed the flaws to return their tools.
Your gen 3 impact and hammer drill must be old because my gen 3 impact has the 3 speed modes with the drill mode and my hammer drill has no buttons on it but has the auto kickback feature
Fascinating Clint the tools they're working on behind the scenes will make this generation tools look like Fisher Price Kids toy
My gen three hammer drill does the same thing! Chuck comes loose all the time and it switches itself out of hammer mode! My DeWalt never did that !
youre problem with the chuck is you are not locking it, tighten chuck on arbor then turn chuck back opposite direction till you feel a click. locked in will help you with loosing youre bits...
Firstly, I did that, second... that's a myth, third..... many people are having issues with the chuck
I font know the correct term for them but i have pressure sores ! Or something from years of using the gen 3 impact driver at the base of my thumb that pushes up against the tool . It hurts like hell when im using it .it seems like p;"s poor ergonomical design work !and the gen 3 chuck opening happens to me all the time on mine . Plus the impact driver often still runs in forwatd 1st time i pulll the trigger after putting tool into reverse ! Ive had some real problems with my mileaukee tools
I just wanna know where you got your sunglasses....
Hahaha, can't remember. Probably Walmart or something 🤣😎
When I saw the price was the same for the tool only I knew it was the same basically but with alot better lighting. How sad.
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A good test for those Milwaukee impact driver & Hammond drill both generations are good she got the Gen 3 you'll be fine it's still handle a variety of tasks how's the retention when you put bits in the impact driver other than Gen 4 gen 3 had that issue with bits falling out what people call version 3.5 of that they added a second ball inside to retain the bits
M12 gen 3 fuel next up?
I have one other video I have to do first the gen 3 m12 early next week 👊
@@ToolReviewZone
Right on!!
Nest deal is if you have been holding out for Gen4 enough to spend the money so the gen 4 are much better deal now
Agreed Loran!
Id want to see the 6AmpHr batteries because of the higher cell voltage.
i got the gen 4 tools after my van was broken into and my tools were stolen. 3 months in and my impact busted (chuck froze up, wouldnt spin, just kept hammering away), and the drill just feels like shit compared to my old gen 3 i used to have. drilled some vent penetrations, sucked a bunch of gunk inside, and made the trigger extremely gummy (ive done the same thing hundreds of times with the gen 3, never had that happen before). all in all, id take the gen 3 1000% of the time over the gen 4, even though the lights on the impact are so much nicer
Maybe you got a bad sample.
Dude really just threw some sawdust on the gen3 to make it seem like its actually been hard at work🤣
Yeah, cause all of your videos show you doing hard work.... oh...wait
i like the extra switches. i think i got generation 2 milwaukee hammer drill and impact driver.
Chris 👊👊👊
I have the gen 3.5 with two bearings. With no plans to upgrade. The light alone isn't worth the upgrade.
After you tighten the chuck on the drill you turn it back a click to engage the chuck lock. Most people don't know about locking drill chucks. Probably why the bit fell out.
$53’000 timber, that’s cheap compared to English prices right now. 😂😂 nice video.
I have other brands so not really an experienced user. I dont use large bits often so I think I would be searching for clearance gen 3s if I was in the market