I got bold and decided to take my personal 3/4 inch impact with a XC8.0 to work on the equipment at my shop, and its a huge improvement over our IR air impacts. Especially out on the beach doing dozer ops. It became so noticeable how much quicker I was working and getting jobs done over everyone else that my own chiefs came up to me and told me to write up an order request for any and all Milwaukee tools we should get for the shop lmao. Within 3 hours, they had an order for 20k in just tools alone, another 5k in batteries, chargers, and packout kits
Thats awesome.. I watched a youtube video not to long ago from a guy who was a mechanic and a Snap on Tool rep... and he ended up quiting his job as a snap on rep because the power tools in his words " wer 3x as expensive and not even half as powerfull" like he was mad at himself for selling snap on powertools, he felt like he was selling the highest quality product on the market and then he tried somethinmg you can buy at home depot for 200 bucks lol
jesus christ, when you included the curve of 3 different M12 battery sizes I was sold on your channel. You and Todd are GOATS, now to find other similar legends!
Anecdotal, but I worked at a Quick Lane oil-and-tire place for 6 months with my M12 1/2" stubby impact on the stock 4.0ah battery. We rotated tires on nearly every vehicle that came in, and I needed to borrow a pneumatic gun only 3 times in 6 months. It's removed axle nuts and harmonic balancer bolts without issue as well. Good enough for me!
Same here. I mostly work on smaller cars, but I've also been able to do everything I've needed to (suspension, lug nuts, even an old japanese axle nut) with my m12 1/2" on the same stock battery. I do not work on cars professionally, though. Small form factor is really nice, though.
axle nuts? Man, I'm sold. I need something compact and can break away brembo caliper bolts (~103lbf-ft) and this might be the ticket. Anything else I should have room for the breaker bar.
@@ldsiverlingI was just working on a ford expedition and couldn’t get the caliper bolts with the stubby. (21mm heads), moved the steering wheel for clearance and m18 mid torque had them off in seconds. I personally love having both.
@@dieseldouche7735 what does this exactly mean? if the tools are better for around the same price as competitors idc if they spend a billion dollars more on marketing than their tools.
@TheNamesJohny just a personal preference I suppose then. The tool should be able to sell itself if it's solid without all of the pushy marketing to make you think they're the best. Makita has next to no marketing but yet they are known for being reliable and lasting a long time.
@@dieseldouche7735 Makita is a Japanese company but they're just as guilty as any other company by moving some of their manufacturing to China. I prefer US, German and Japan made stuff but my china Milwaukee power tools never let me down *knock on wood.
I have the 2767 for use in a municipal shop near Chicago. I have yet to run across a truck lug nut it can’t remove, and my trucks live in road salt six months of the year. I love using that gun for rusty plow bolts, because if the 2767 won’t loosen them, it will tear them in half.
LET'S GO!!!🏁 2:00...👈 this... people tend to get this wrong a lot... just because the upper end of it's torque capability can break a fastener free doesn't mean that's the only one you're going to need.. you need about four times that torque unless you want to sit there for 20 seconds trying to take it off..every time Design and impacting rate is going to play in the torque curve also...
My m12 stubby 3/8 is my go to tool for everything. It’s lightweight, convenient, fits most places, the battery lasts forever… it just gets the job done without wearing out your arm. Having the m12 ratchets for tight places is helpful but I mostly use the stubby. And yes obviously it doesn’t work for crusty suspension bolts and lug nuts and the like.
I don't know what the dude in the video is talking about, but it's very hard for me to find a bolt on a car this stubby can't take off. Granted, I'm in California. But lug nuts and suspension bolts, even 24mm ones, are a breeze. I've only had to take out the 2767 for one suspension bolt on our Audi. The stubby is the best tool ever! Does everything from Phillips screws to suspension bolts!
I change tires on 18 wheelers for work and we have a couple of those D handles. I’ve never had a lug that they couldn’t get off, I also prefer them over the air powered IR 1” that we have. It’s rare that either of our impacts struggles to unbolt a wheel even with rust. We torque to 475 after lubing the stud and nut
@@thatcanadian_9566 I agree I don’t think we need the 1” impacts expect on rare occasions. Our torque wrench is set to 475, and our hydraulic torque gun is set to roughly the same.
This is really useful. Thank you 🙏 After years away from hobby mechanics, I’m diving back in and need a wrench to cope with UK rusted suspension. A couple of months back, my bargain basement Nissan Qashqai (Rogue) needed wishbones and drop links. It took 4 days of scrubbing, soaking, heating and swearing to get it done. I’m being told I need everything from 250NM to 1,200NM. 🤔🤯 This has kinda made my mind up. About 1,000NM. We’ll see. 😉
Professional wrench thrower here. M12 is the design factor by which I have all of my electrics. Anything that requires more than the ~250ftlbs from the stubby was less than 5% of the total fasteners that I dealt with. In which case I had multiple other forms of fastener movement. If I had to buy an entire setup all over again I would do things the same way. M12. Since every shop has to have air basically no matter what, I never saw a benefit of have the M18 line or any of its competitors over the typical pneumatic tools that I already have. Anyone else thinking about taking this directly on and buying your own line of battery models, remember two things, the more the tool shakes the more the electronic controls in that tool shake, and sometimes the fastest way to do the job is by breaking the bolt.
Garage work surely makes anything more than M12 pretty useless.. why buy M18 or something like the 40V by Makita when you can just plug in the air? the Thor is a beast and way cheaper than the bare tool of any battery High Torque.. I do, however, have a battery ratchet (air one just blows dust around and makes a bunch of noise) and an 18V Makita 1/2 high torque cos im not always in the shop. Sometimes, im workin on a car that hasnt seen the road in a couple decades and the closest building is off on the horizon and only has a toilet lol
Ive got the 3/8" m12 stubby, 1/2" m18 mid torque, and 1/2" m18 high torque. Im a diesel mechanic that works on primarily semis and other big trucks, not really pick-ups. I'm typically grabbing the m12 stubby, for 90% of bolts under 1/2" (3/4" hex head) it's strong enough, for the 10% that aren't i grab the mid torque. And for everything over 1/2" bolts i typically just grab the high torque right away.
I bought a 3/8" M12 stubby to use for my lugs on my MINI (17mm) & RAV4 (21mm). I'm finding that almost all the sockets are for 1/2 anvil. I'm curious do you use your 3/8" M12 with 3/8 sockets or a 3/8->1/2 adapter? I'm just wondering if it's worth swapping for the 2555 or just keep the 2554? Thanks for your input
@@WowRixter4 months late, but considering the bare m12 stubby is usually around $200, would recommend either getting a cheap set of 3/8 sockets or just using the 1/2-3/8 adapter, although with an impact the adapters do lose a notable amount of torque. Diesel mechanic here and rarely if ever would have a need for the 1/2 stubby instead of my beloved 3/8 stubby
@@WowRixter sure thing, that’s a solid socket set, I use them daily at work and haven’t broken a single one yet. They also get worn/wallowed out less quickly than my snap-on impact sockets so a win-win in my book
The right angle impact is the only impact I have currently. It works for almost everything and has saved my ass on multiple occasions. I've never met a bolt it couldn't break except for axle nuts.
I live in a city with 7 months of the year being wet or snowy. Even thought ive got the high torque M18....the M12 stubby and Makita XWT14 have taken apart almost every bolt in the front end of my F150.
Honda technician with the 1/2 in high torque here. I've had mine for a couple years and it is a beast. As for those crank bolts, it will work, but we all have weighted sockets for them anyway. They aren't that expensive and I actually bought mine a couple years prior to becoming a Honda tech to help a friend with an emergency replacement of the harmonic balancer on his 2007 Odyssey.
That Honda crank bolt is making me anxious of doing any kind of work on my car... breaker bar+ in gear+on the breaks werent enough. But air impact gun and going at it for a minute, did the job. Except I still had to go to proffesional mechanic...
@@kerstas10 I just did that job with the high torque gun and weighted socket, came off ez. Forget about using breaker bar if you have it on the floor, needs to be raised for that. Just get the gun with socket and diy
I have the 3/8 low torque one. I don't really use it for busting bolts loose, but it does work wonders for tight interior jobs like quickly changing blower motors.
Always look forward to seeing a new TTC episode every Friday, keep up the excellent work. Thanks to your recommendations, I picked up a Ridgid Octane high-torque from my local direct tool outlet for 50% off yesterday. Can’t wait to see if the new Dewalt high-torque is able to beat it or even the Matco gun
Currently working a shutdown for the first time with the Mid Torque on my truck and I'm thoroughly impressed. Pleanty of flanges we had to break where the high torques power would have been nice but was to large to fit in some spaces , and the mid torque didn't have a problem removing 1" carbon steel studs
Took whole subframe apart with the M18 compact on a rusted chassis, did seized up brake caliper stuff without a sweat. Throw in suspension spring job in the same bucket. Haven't seen a lug it couldn't take off yet. This little monster is more than capable.
I had been using 3/8” stubby on xc 4.0 since 2018 on Odyssey 100 ft/lb winter lug nuts which some were seize solid with ease our 18V Bosch impact with 21700 4Ah cells will not crack it. This is up in Aurora (North of Toronto Canada) We now can do it with mode 2 on mid torque tighten at mode 2 around 100 ft/lb
My 1" Milwaukee hasn't struggled on a tri axle or 18 wheeler lug nut yet and it's taken off hundreds of nuts that were WAY over torqued and rusty as can be. It's not as fast as my 1" air impact but I keep it in the truck for road service and I'm NEVER worried it won't be able to break a lug nut loose. I can attest that there's no reason to worry if it'll get the lug nut loose or not. Another plus side is I'm pretty sure it puts out the same torque with a nearly dead battery as it does with a new one I've had my battery die a couple times and grabbed a new one to double check the nuts and it doesn't visibly torque them anymore than the dying one did.
I use a 2767 with a 9.0 high output as a Fire Truck Technician and it zips off Fire Truck lug nuts, suspension stuff and plenty of rusted water pump/transmission bolts without complaining.
Looking forward to the DeWalt series like this -- especially since they're just getting the new stuff out now -- the various models all look so similar and the names are so similar it's a bit hard to keep track of what's what from them IMO.
Myth buster for you to test: When I am faced with a fastener at the limit that my well worn IR 2135qtimax from about 2006 (but still kicking), I will load it up with way too much tool oil and give it a shot. Anecdotally, this has worked more times than zero. That might just be due to other factors, but I always do it once I reach that point.
I do the same. My theory is it's sorta like when you squirt oil in a cylinder when doing a compression test. It takes up some of the clearance from wear.
My M12 Stubby did well with anything non seized, from engine bay to lugnut, crankshaft bolt and even subframe on Civic 1996 and Jazz 2009. Ive seen its limit with deeply fused rusted stuff. But otherwise i would say 99% of DIY jobs can be done with that M12 Stubby with 4.0Ah
Had my Gen2 high torque 1/2" for nearly 7 years now. Haven't missed a beat. Added a 3/8" Stubbie a few years a go and I can't say I miss anything after that.
I use the 1 in D handle gun to tighten up oil drain bolts to make sure its tight and won't leak. I also write with a tire marker on the oil pan, "Good Luck" for the next poor sap that has got to work on it. 😁
Just ordered and received the Dewalt DCF892B 20V MAX XR 1/2-in Mid-Range Impact w/800 ft. lbs torque in a compact wrench. I ordered this wrench based on your test results where it put everything else including all Milwaukee's in the same size category to shame. It is a beast of a wrench in a small lightweight gun and I love it. Thanks for all that you do and share!
I love that you guys also explain which tool is best for what job according to the torque rating. Me being a regular around the house and diy my own car type guy I would’ve brought the 1500 ft pound torque wrench to tighten car lug nuts lls not knowing any better
I have the long anvil 1”. I also work in a truck stop. Many times the air can’t even move the nuts. And the Milwaukee struggles but it doesn’t quit and there hasn’t been anything it can’t do!
Ok before we start the video here's what I got as an electrician. I have M18 1/4" surge as an everyday carry using it alongside my 1/4" drive M12 ratchet. I have the M18 stubby impact, M12 1/2" right angle impact, and a 1/2 fuel ratchet. For bussing using 15-19mm bolts torqued at 50nm if they haven't been ark welded together. And finally I have the big boy the 1" impact that has a 46mm socket that never comes off to remove the landing bolts when I have to swap transformers out. Let's see how it all stacks up.
As a diesel tech that works on semis and medium duty box trucks, my go to is my 3/8 stubby m12 and 2767-20 1/2in. My 3/8 has taken an insane amount of abuse and always keeps working plus I’ve ran over my 1/2 in once with a forklift and it’s still kicking. There’s some Milwaukee stuff I’ve bought and have been disappointed with, definitely the m12 die grinder and the non fuel 3/8 ratchet. I have been contemplating getting a good 1/2 air gun and keeping the Milwaukee as an on the road tool/ at home tool since I don’t use it terribly often and when I do I’m doing hubs or rotors which have a about 10-15 bolts per side that take 5-10 secs a piece to remove so I’m down half a battery when putting it back together and just for convenience sake I rather use air
I'm a fan of Milwaukee tools, my first and only it's the 2767 1/2" HT, I work most of the time on motorcycles, here and there I encounter a nasty stubborn nut, I just apply #2 and voila, above #2 it will be broken...better have that extra oomph, and If I have to travel this baby will save the day.
I had a 1996 honda accord and tried to take off the spindle nut because you had to remove it to change brake rotors. I used a 1/2 24" breaker bar, no movement. I added a 6 foot piece of square tube and it broke the head of the breaker bar clean off. Warrantied the tool, and used the second one. Broke the 1/2" drive off of it. Needless to say, I was not removing that rotor...
I work for CAT and i have over 28 batteries from milwaukee and about 8k in tools. I have the current 1/2" and 3/4" and 1" d handle impact along with the 12.0s and they work really well, havent found a mac or matco or snap on that can beat them, that said, a 1"7/16 bolt that has been sitting for a while gives the 1" some trouble. It still takes them off with a 12.0 but it takes a while, but i have found that if the 1" cant take it off then none of the 1" air impacts can do it, and some of the older ones we have hit real good.
I have the 2555 m12 1/2in stubby , the 2767 m18 1/2in high torque, and the 2864 m18 3/4 high torque, and use all 3 regularly as a tractor trailer fleet tech, spot on descriptions, the stubby is perfect for general purpose work, the 1/2in m18 for more suspension and brake work, and the 3/4in for lugnuts and drive line
My gen 2 mid torque 1/2" anvil is great. I use it on a daily basis with a swivel doing brakes and suspension. It gets majority of the fasteners off. It's rare for me to take out my high torque. The mid torque is very impressive for the size.
The 1" from the big red tool maker has been a god send for Military trucks and heavy construction vehicles. We have mostly switched over to electric tools.
1/2 inch one for me 2767-20 . The one with 1400lbs. I need the torque. I do a lot of work with crank bolts/ball joints and stuff. If anyone has worked on crank bolts before, then they know what I'm talking about. Sometimes they're absolutely crazy. It took over 1000lb/ft to break the one loose on my Honda. I broke a breaker bar on it. But this impact zipped it off no problem
The battery graphs are excellent, only have 1 of the m18 batteries in my kit now days. It's filled with m12. Smaller n gets the job done just the same. Beside the little circ saw, I feel it needs more beans
I have the brushless m18 1/4" driver that is supposed to put out 133 ft-lbs, I do both our car lug nuts with it. It has a very surprising amount of torque, especially considering the tiny 1/4" adapters you have to use. I'm impressed.
I use my m18 Milwaukee 1/4" impact from the often on sale for $119 kit to take off my lug nuts several times a year with no issue, yes after being properly torqued.
They are awesome tools. These are for heavy duty use for many years. I'll never even wear out my Stanley tools around home. I hide them when the pros show up and take out my Festool vacuum to show that I'm serious. 😅
thank you for this! personally, i never met anything my 18v Fuel Surge could drive or loosen but it hasn't seen any suspension/engine work. 1/4 impact have gotten too fast, too loud and too powerful for what people really need them for. i love more power but the last 4-5 Gens are not too useful where luckily the Surge swooped in and saved us all. and QUIET! perfect for interior work especially since newest 12v Bosch drivers got louder for no reason. a m18 Surge and a mid torque and you're good to go for most around the house/car jobs. 12v Bosch's are more refined and work better. the m12 fat grip just kills me and is not comfortable at all. Bosch is Snap-on 7.2v tiny where M12 are oversized and ridiculous and just not useful.
Excellent test for Milwaukee cordless power tool users. When a user of these tools invests in the Milwaukee batteries, the user is kinda "stuck" buying Milwaukee tools. But, the tools are so durable, I cannot complain about being "stuck." And this test is GREAT for those "stuck" users, allowing them to pick and choose the correct Milwaukee tool for the job. Very, very nice!
The impact driver, m12 stubby 3/8 and 1/2” mid torque will take care of any DIY homeowners needs, if you’re a pro you will love the 1/2” high torque but already have a good pneumatic.
Truck shop in SW Michigan. The 3/4 has been my go to for over a year now for big torque jobs. Since I started buying 6.0s, there have been few things it can't do. One of my protégé just bought one for himself for tire changes.
The 1/2 inch will take of big nut on trucks did get stuck on u bolt on leaf springs but the 1 inch delt with it this is a very big truck and it does a good job.
I have the competition makita and I use my 3/8 a lot but I will say my 1/2 still get used a lot. The 3/8 still seems to fall short in some areas but it definitely fits a lot of nice areas and is key in my tool car while the 1/2 sits in the box more.
Great clip. Especially with the chart that shows were you can use it. Most people look what thet should by for the job they want to do and with such charts it makes it way more understandable. Thank you and please do this with the chart more
Probably would've been more cost effective for me to buy the mid torque, even as a tech. But I bought my high torque 2 years ago and have only encountered half a dozen bolts too seized for it to remove.
Very informative indeed ... great to see the graphical representation of "how much torque for the job" chart, which would apply regardless of brand of tool. Sixteen minutes well spent. Thanks to Milwaukee for making so many models to confuse t.f. out of the buyer, but even more thanks to TTC for explaining the differences between models.
Yea I feel the same, Milwaukee has some many numbers and names and different batteries it feels overwhelming sometimes especially when its a 300-500 dollar purchase
What an absolutely beautiful and informative video!! I can't imagine all the work to put together this 16 min video. Thank you! Milwaukee is definitely a great brand!
My first ever power tool was the huge 26v cordless ratchet from kobalt. I quickly returned it and got m12 stubby impact with high torque ratchet. Only wanted the ratchet but home depot drags you into the deals and now I only use ratchet for brake bolts. Everything else, stubby. I’ve noticed tho, half wheel nuts the stubby isn’t strong enough. Suspension bolts are a long shot tho. All that rust is a different level for m12. There’s no chance. I kinda wanna get 1/2 m18 but I don’t like spending money sooo. If I were to get one i think id get mid torque 1/2 just cuz it’s smaller and 650lbs is probably enough for everything on a car
I'm getting the mid-level impact that does 400-450. Just need it for changing tires on my cars. Tested one at my work place and it's so comfortable and smooth in that size.
I’ve torque turned 18mm head bolts 120 degrees from 300 ftlbs with my 2767. Yes it took it a long time but they were in a tight spot and that 1/2 Milly saved me from using a breaker bar.
The M2555-20 the 1/2” is I think still $179 for the impact with a 2ah and 4ah xtra output battery and case, at Home Depot, what a steal, just got mine delivered over the weekend!
Hey TTC! You hear about the new M12 High Output batteries? I know they’re not out on the market yet, but I’d love to see you test them on the M12 stubby when you can get your hands on some. There will be a CP2.5 and an XC5.0. Would love to see the power difference not only between the HO5.0 and the XC6.0, but also against DeWalt’s compact again.
I have the 1/2 drive 2767 and it's more than enough power for the basic diyer at home. Honestly overkill but I'd rather have too much power than to come up short. The high output XC8.0 battery is great too. I also got a Sawzall. I guess tools are my toys now haha.
This video was two years ago. Could you please do an update version of this for Milwaukee and one for Dewalt as well, the timing seems good and would be appreciated. Thank you for your great work!
We bought the 3/4" impact for pipe flange nuts that took a 2" socket. It would help spin them down faster but wasn't enough to torque. We had to use Norbar torque guns that could do 4000Nm. We hired them though, they're 10k+ to buy
Thanks to your channel I said goodbye to my Bauer driver, drill and 1/2" impact! Welcoming the DeWalt 12v extreme series drill, driver set and got the dcf901 for free! That 901 for 12v is crazy powerful. Absolutely love it! Dcf891 on the way real soon. Keep up the great work man
I have an M12 stubby and it’s great and my most used impact. I bought a mid torque and I’ve only ran into one instance where it it got off what stubby wouldn’t… I want a high torque now.
I used the 1/2” high torque at work almost everyday and I use it to remove 1 5/8 lugs ( International school buses ) and I’ve never had a problem with it. But I would like to set up to the 3/4 and this video helped a lot with my decision on if I’m going to get it or not
Hi. Been working with cars +15years with rachet and breakbar as home mechanic mainly. At last upgrading to impact machines and been watching few days Milwaukee impact wrench's. Here in Europe they have different model coding, but i believe models i have been looking are 2967-20 "new gen high-torque" and 2962-20 " new gen mid-torque". Now noticed that 9/2/2024 they are releasing new stubby 550ftlbs. I will buy the high torque for harmonic balancer bolt etc. But what would you do. Buy the Mid-torque 650ftlbs or wait +month and buy the new stubby for main impact machine. smaller weaker?? But not in hurry with this. Br Teemu
I am a m12 3/8 stubby and m18 gen 1 mid torque user. I yet to find a job I can’t do with either of this yet. Small stuff gets the m12, big stuff gets the mid torque. That’s including changinging wheels on my tractor only a few weeks ago, it did impact for a whole 2 seconds before starting to shift them but it did it. I had a high torque before but found it too bulky to carry around in my tool bag at work so got the mid torque as a replacement
Having used cheapo stuff for years all day every day, this week I went bought a 1/2" Milwaukee ratchet, a 1/2" Hi torque & a 3/4" hi torque - spent all week going "Blimey.." as they whipped off stuff my previous junk wouldn't touch. My "real world" conclusion is I should have bought them years ago & saved myself endless hours fighting tight rusted fastners. Did a full axle replacement on a Toyota 4*4 today & not a single bolt troubled the 1/2" hi-torque even slightly despite everything being corroded. Every bolt came off in seconds. Last week, that would have been a nightmare task, this week it was a doddle. Am I sold? Yes I am.
Nice comparison!! Stubby, mid, and high tq have done everything I needed so far. Only required the high tq once, but was so glad I had it to continue the job. Stubby actually gets the most usage without fear of damaging anything. Finish with the Tq wrench.
So i run an m18 high torque on a 5.0. Down in Florida working on tractors, small heavy equipment like a cat416d and vehicles, it has enough uuga dugas to do the job, anything rustier and in need some big stuff. My personal experience
Our go to Milwaukee's: Driver: amzn.to/3QdAI2c
Subby: amzn.to/3AgKyZd
Mid Torque: amzn.to/3q9LcFe
High Torque: amzn.to/44pm1xK
What do you use to make these graphs? Very cool!
Was this tightening or loosening?
Do you have a video explaining your test setup? I’d like to make one.
@@silverstranded wfht
hawmachi in uga nd
I mainly do oil changes, so 1" D-handle for me.
D handle for the filter, extended d handle for the oil plug
Don't forget a good welder to tack it in place after. Can't risk it coming out ever again. And remember, if it ain't cross-threaded, it ain't tight!
@@SkylineFTW97 Dont forget the strongest locktite either
@@frenchonion4595 That's not enough to stop a leak. Max power with a 1 inch impact gun. And remember, if it ain't cross threaded, it ain't tight.
@SkylineFTW97 Don't forget some Rocksett on the threads. Can't risk some hero with a torch intent on removing the plug in one piece.
I got bold and decided to take my personal 3/4 inch impact with a XC8.0 to work on the equipment at my shop, and its a huge improvement over our IR air impacts. Especially out on the beach doing dozer ops. It became so noticeable how much quicker I was working and getting jobs done over everyone else that my own chiefs came up to me and told me to write up an order request for any and all Milwaukee tools we should get for the shop lmao. Within 3 hours, they had an order for 20k in just tools alone, another 5k in batteries, chargers, and packout kits
What was on the list of 20k in tools holy?
@@red_wyatt just a bunch of different milwaukee tools that would help out around the shop, mostly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts
Thats awesome.. I watched a youtube video not to long ago from a guy who was a mechanic and a Snap on Tool rep... and he ended up quiting his job as a snap on rep because the power tools in his words " wer 3x as expensive and not even half as powerfull" like he was mad at himself for selling snap on powertools, he felt like he was selling the highest quality product on the market and then he tried somethinmg you can buy at home depot for 200 bucks lol
What about a raise?
So, they bought 5 tools?
jesus christ, when you included the curve of 3 different M12 battery sizes I was sold on your channel. You and Todd are GOATS, now to find other similar legends!
How many ft-lbs do you need? "all of them"
Indeed.
Agreed my thoughts exactly
@@PaulRudd1941 bro that gave me a good laugh thank you.
“That’s still not enough!”
How many do you need? Yes!
I own all but the 2 high end ones and the pin detent one. I'm not a professional mechanic. This video made me realize I might have a problem.
Guess we checking in to tool rehab together 😅
Lol if you're a man watching these videos than ya maybe a problem or rather a 'hobby' lmao we stick together 😂
Only problem you have is your missing a couple tools!
Anecdotal, but I worked at a Quick Lane oil-and-tire place for 6 months with my M12 1/2" stubby impact on the stock 4.0ah battery. We rotated tires on nearly every vehicle that came in, and I needed to borrow a pneumatic gun only 3 times in 6 months. It's removed axle nuts and harmonic balancer bolts without issue as well. Good enough for me!
Same here. I mostly work on smaller cars, but I've also been able to do everything I've needed to (suspension, lug nuts, even an old japanese axle nut) with my m12 1/2" on the same stock battery. I do not work on cars professionally, though. Small form factor is really nice, though.
Same! It only struggles with wheel locks as the wheel lock + socket act as a torque stick.
One very important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
axle nuts? Man, I'm sold. I need something compact and can break away brembo caliper bolts (~103lbf-ft) and this might be the ticket. Anything else I should have room for the breaker bar.
@@ldsiverlingI was just working on a ford expedition and couldn’t get the caliper bolts with the stubby. (21mm heads), moved the steering wheel for clearance and m18 mid torque had them off in seconds. I personally love having both.
Me: Never touched a bolt on a semi outside of replacing the windshield when I was a glass tech
Also me: that 1 inch impact would come in handy 🤔
Works great for removing my Prius oil drain plug
@@maxuabo ...the Tesla drain plug however.
@@pflaffik you do know Prius are hybrids meaning they have gas engines, right?
.... he said Telsa tho?
@@TorqueTestChannel I said Prius
Milwaukee is such a beast tool company. So glad I am invested into their battery line up, because they never disappoint!
I guess if you like buying tools from a Chinese owned company that spends more on marketing than their tools.
@@dieseldouche7735 what does this exactly mean? if the tools are better for around the same price as competitors idc if they spend a billion dollars more on marketing than their tools.
@@dieseldouche7735 better than come store crap from china or much overpriced snap on tools
@TheNamesJohny just a personal preference I suppose then. The tool should be able to sell itself if it's solid without all of the pushy marketing to make you think they're the best. Makita has next to no marketing but yet they are known for being reliable and lasting a long time.
@@dieseldouche7735 Makita is a Japanese company but they're just as guilty as any other company by moving some of their manufacturing to China. I prefer US, German and Japan made stuff but my china Milwaukee power tools never let me down *knock on wood.
I have the 2767 for use in a municipal shop near Chicago. I have yet to run across a truck lug nut it can’t remove, and my trucks live in road salt six months of the year. I love using that gun for rusty plow bolts, because if the 2767 won’t loosen them, it will tear them in half.
LET'S GO!!!🏁
2:00...👈 this... people tend to get this wrong a lot... just because the upper end of it's torque capability can break a fastener free doesn't mean that's the only one you're going to need..
you need about four times that torque unless you want to sit there for 20 seconds trying to take it off..every time
Design and impacting rate is going to play in the torque curve also...
correct, and once you start adding extensions and swivel adapters too having that extra overhead power helps out a lot
My m12 stubby 3/8 is my go to tool for everything. It’s lightweight, convenient, fits most places, the battery lasts forever… it just gets the job done without wearing out your arm. Having the m12 ratchets for tight places is helpful but I mostly use the stubby. And yes obviously it doesn’t work for crusty suspension bolts and lug nuts and the like.
That's also my favorite tool that I've bought to date!
I don't know what the dude in the video is talking about, but it's very hard for me to find a bolt on a car this stubby can't take off. Granted, I'm in California. But lug nuts and suspension bolts, even 24mm ones, are a breeze. I've only had to take out the 2767 for one suspension bolt on our Audi. The stubby is the best tool ever! Does everything from Phillips screws to suspension bolts!
@@steelddd
TTC probably lives in the Rust Belt area.
Rusty bolts are a pain to deal with.
I do with my m12 and it takes off lugnuts, suspension, brake parts etc. with ease
@@Ciridan I thought so too, until I couldn’t get the lower strut bolt off on a rav 4
I change tires on 18 wheelers for work and we have a couple of those D handles. I’ve never had a lug that they couldn’t get off, I also prefer them over the air powered IR 1” that we have. It’s rare that either of our impacts struggles to unbolt a wheel even with rust. We torque to 475 after lubing the stud and nut
Hey thanks for the info from experience! Yeah stuff over 24mm we don't see much around here besides axle nuts.
@@TorqueTestChannel hey man no problem I really enjoy your channel!
where i work i never needed the 1" impact i only needed the 3/4" ir air impact what's the torque are you guys torquing the wheels?
@@thatcanadian_9566 I agree I don’t think we need the 1” impacts expect on rare occasions. Our torque wrench is set to 475, and our hydraulic torque gun is set to roughly the same.
I mean if it starts struggling you just pull out a torque multiplier.
For me the 450 range is pretty much all I need, if I need more I'm getting the breaker bar with an extension
This is really useful. Thank you 🙏
After years away from hobby mechanics, I’m diving back in and need a wrench to cope with UK rusted suspension.
A couple of months back, my bargain basement Nissan Qashqai (Rogue) needed wishbones and drop links.
It took 4 days of scrubbing, soaking, heating and swearing to get it done.
I’m being told I need everything from 250NM to 1,200NM. 🤔🤯
This has kinda made my mind up.
About 1,000NM.
We’ll see. 😉
Professional wrench thrower here. M12 is the design factor by which I have all of my electrics. Anything that requires more than the ~250ftlbs from the stubby was less than 5% of the total fasteners that I dealt with. In which case I had multiple other forms of fastener movement.
If I had to buy an entire setup all over again I would do things the same way. M12. Since every shop has to have air basically no matter what, I never saw a benefit of have the M18 line or any of its competitors over the typical pneumatic tools that I already have.
Anyone else thinking about taking this directly on and buying your own line of battery models, remember two things, the more the tool shakes the more the electronic controls in that tool shake, and sometimes the fastest way to do the job is by breaking the bolt.
Yeah same. I have m18 batteries as well but they are for the angle grinders.
Garage work surely makes anything more than M12 pretty useless.. why buy M18 or something like the 40V by Makita when you can just plug in the air? the Thor is a beast and way cheaper than the bare tool of any battery High Torque..
I do, however, have a battery ratchet (air one just blows dust around and makes a bunch of noise) and an 18V Makita 1/2 high torque cos im not always in the shop. Sometimes, im workin on a car that hasnt seen the road in a couple decades and the closest building is off on the horizon and only has a toilet lol
M18 is great for mobile applications like logging work since if a machine breaks down in the woods you can’t get a air compressor out there.
idk if I just have a beast, but my m12 1/2" easily takes off lugnuts, brake calipers, suspension parts. All of this is on a 25 year old pickup also.
Ive got the 3/8" m12 stubby, 1/2" m18 mid torque, and 1/2" m18 high torque. Im a diesel mechanic that works on primarily semis and other big trucks, not really pick-ups. I'm typically grabbing the m12 stubby, for 90% of bolts under 1/2" (3/4" hex head) it's strong enough, for the 10% that aren't i grab the mid torque. And for everything over 1/2" bolts i typically just grab the high torque right away.
I bought a 3/8" M12 stubby to use for my lugs on my MINI (17mm) & RAV4 (21mm). I'm finding that almost all the sockets are for 1/2 anvil. I'm curious do you use your 3/8" M12 with 3/8 sockets or a 3/8->1/2 adapter? I'm just wondering if it's worth swapping for the 2555 or just keep the 2554? Thanks for your input
@@WowRixter4 months late, but considering the bare m12 stubby is usually around $200, would recommend either getting a cheap set of 3/8 sockets or just using the 1/2-3/8 adapter, although with an impact the adapters do lose a notable amount of torque. Diesel mechanic here and rarely if ever would have a need for the 1/2 stubby instead of my beloved 3/8 stubby
@@snafu_vfx I ended up buying the Milwaukee metric 3/8" socket set. Super happy with them, and its all worked out. Thanks for getting back to me
@@WowRixter sure thing, that’s a solid socket set, I use them daily at work and haven’t broken a single one yet. They also get worn/wallowed out less quickly than my snap-on impact sockets so a win-win in my book
The right angle impact is the only impact I have currently. It works for almost everything and has saved my ass on multiple occasions. I've never met a bolt it couldn't break except for axle nuts.
Fr same. I laughed when he said they won't do brake caliper bolts 😂.
Thanks for this!
I was window shopping M12 stubby impacts a little while ago.
Seeing what they're capable of is appreciated.
I live in a city with 7 months of the year being wet or snowy.
Even thought ive got the high torque M18....the M12 stubby and Makita XWT14 have taken apart almost every bolt in the front end of my F150.
Honda technician with the 1/2 in high torque here. I've had mine for a couple years and it is a beast. As for those crank bolts, it will work, but we all have weighted sockets for them anyway. They aren't that expensive and I actually bought mine a couple years prior to becoming a Honda tech to help a friend with an emergency replacement of the harmonic balancer on his 2007 Odyssey.
That Honda crank bolt is making me anxious of doing any kind of work on my car... breaker bar+ in gear+on the breaks werent enough. But air impact gun and going at it for a minute, did the job. Except I still had to go to proffesional mechanic...
@@kerstas10 I just did that job with the high torque gun and weighted socket, came off ez. Forget about using breaker bar if you have it on the floor, needs to be raised for that. Just get the gun with socket and diy
Would you say the hi torque gun isn’t necessary for doing work on the Honda? Or is it necessary for suspension work?
@@radiospank It can be if you live somewhere that uses road salt a lot.
You can add the M12 stubby to the "bringing down an Eaton Fuller transmission from a tractor" category. That's what I use all the time!
The 2nd gen mid torque makes a great go to most of the time. Thanks guys great work.
i agree. i wanted a set for the longest time with the high output 1/2". found myself grabbing the mid torque 99% of the time over the high output😆
I have had very good experience with the 3/8 right angle impact for brake bolts and shocks. I use mine everyday.
I have the 3/8 low torque one. I don't really use it for busting bolts loose, but it does work wonders for tight interior jobs like quickly changing blower motors.
Always look forward to seeing a new TTC episode every Friday, keep up the excellent work. Thanks to your recommendations, I picked up a Ridgid Octane high-torque from my local direct tool outlet for 50% off yesterday. Can’t wait to see if the new Dewalt high-torque is able to beat it or even the Matco gun
Also the new rigid mid torque went on clearance at my Home Depot I’m waiting to see how low it goes before I snag it
Now I want to go build a bridge just to make use of the tool.
Currently working a shutdown for the first time with the Mid Torque on my truck and I'm thoroughly impressed.
Pleanty of flanges we had to break where the high torques power would have been nice but was to large to fit in some spaces , and the mid torque didn't have a problem removing 1" carbon steel studs
Took whole subframe apart with the M18 compact on a rusted chassis, did seized up brake caliper stuff without a sweat. Throw in suspension spring job in the same bucket. Haven't seen a lug it couldn't take off yet. This little monster is more than capable.
I had been using 3/8” stubby on xc 4.0 since 2018 on Odyssey 100 ft/lb winter lug nuts which some were seize solid with ease
our 18V Bosch impact with 21700 4Ah cells will not crack it.
This is up in Aurora (North of Toronto Canada)
We now can do it with mode 2 on mid torque
tighten at mode 2 around 100 ft/lb
My 1" Milwaukee hasn't struggled on a tri axle or 18 wheeler lug nut yet and it's taken off hundreds of nuts that were WAY over torqued and rusty as can be. It's not as fast as my 1" air impact but I keep it in the truck for road service and I'm NEVER worried it won't be able to break a lug nut loose. I can attest that there's no reason to worry if it'll get the lug nut loose or not. Another plus side is I'm pretty sure it puts out the same torque with a nearly dead battery as it does with a new one I've had my battery die a couple times and grabbed a new one to double check the nuts and it doesn't visibly torque them anymore than the dying one did.
I use a 2767 with a 9.0 high output as a Fire Truck Technician and it zips off Fire Truck lug nuts, suspension stuff and plenty of rusted water pump/transmission bolts without complaining.
Fun to see them all lined up with lots of anecdotal experience-and the actual-use chart looks invaluable.
Looking forward to the DeWalt series like this -- especially since they're just getting the new stuff out now -- the various models all look so similar and the names are so similar it's a bit hard to keep track of what's what from them IMO.
I second this, do a Dewalt list
Third.
Myth buster for you to test: When I am faced with a fastener at the limit that my well worn IR 2135qtimax from about 2006 (but still kicking), I will load it up with way too much tool oil and give it a shot. Anecdotally, this has worked more times than zero. That might just be due to other factors, but I always do it once I reach that point.
Interesting theory. I could see how an extra shot of oil could seal up worn vanes momentarily or otherwise modify the internal volumes somehow.
I do the same. My theory is it's sorta like when you squirt oil in a cylinder when doing a compression test. It takes up some of the clearance from wear.
My M12 Stubby did well with anything non seized, from engine bay to lugnut, crankshaft bolt and even subframe on Civic 1996 and Jazz 2009. Ive seen its limit with deeply fused rusted stuff. But otherwise i would say 99% of DIY jobs can be done with that M12 Stubby with 4.0Ah
M12 stubby is a mike tison. Amazing punch
@@joecostu1571 More like Donnie yen ipman 1million little punch but still effective
Had my Gen2 high torque 1/2" for nearly 7 years now. Haven't missed a beat. Added a 3/8" Stubbie a few years a go and I can't say I miss anything after that.
I use the 1 in D handle gun to tighten up oil drain bolts to make sure its tight and won't leak. I also write with a tire marker on the oil pan, "Good Luck" for the next poor sap that has got to work on it. 😁
I generally use my mid torque 1/2" stubby with a 3/8" adapter and then use my 1/2" big boi to finish the job. Glad I got the red.
Just ordered and received the Dewalt DCF892B 20V MAX XR 1/2-in Mid-Range Impact w/800 ft. lbs torque in a compact wrench. I ordered this wrench based on your test results where it put everything else including all Milwaukee's in the same size category to shame. It is a beast of a wrench in a small lightweight gun and I love it. Thanks for all that you do and share!
I love that you guys also explain which tool is best for what job according to the torque rating. Me being a regular around the house and diy my own car type guy I would’ve brought the 1500 ft pound torque wrench to tighten car lug nuts lls not knowing any better
bought a m12 drill and impact combo last year and I love it.
I have the long anvil 1”. I also work in a truck stop. Many times the air can’t even move the nuts. And the Milwaukee struggles but it doesn’t quit and there hasn’t been anything it can’t do!
Ok before we start the video here's what I got as an electrician. I have
M18 1/4" surge as an everyday carry using it alongside my 1/4" drive M12 ratchet.
I have the M18 stubby impact, M12 1/2" right angle impact, and a 1/2 fuel ratchet. For bussing using 15-19mm bolts torqued at 50nm if they haven't been ark welded together.
And finally I have the big boy the 1" impact that has a 46mm socket that never comes off to remove the landing bolts when I have to swap transformers out. Let's see how it all stacks up.
As a diesel tech that works on semis and medium duty box trucks, my go to is my 3/8 stubby m12 and 2767-20 1/2in. My 3/8 has taken an insane amount of abuse and always keeps working plus I’ve ran over my 1/2 in once with a forklift and it’s still kicking. There’s some Milwaukee stuff I’ve bought and have been disappointed with, definitely the m12 die grinder and the non fuel 3/8 ratchet. I have been contemplating getting a good 1/2 air gun and keeping the Milwaukee as an on the road tool/ at home tool since I don’t use it terribly often and when I do I’m doing hubs or rotors which have a about 10-15 bolts per side that take 5-10 secs a piece to remove so I’m down half a battery when putting it back together and just for convenience sake I rather use air
I'm a fan of Milwaukee tools, my first and only it's the 2767 1/2" HT, I work most of the time on motorcycles, here and there I encounter a nasty stubborn nut, I just apply #2 and voila, above #2 it will be broken...better have that extra oomph, and If I have to travel this baby will save the day.
I had a 1996 honda accord and tried to take off the spindle nut because you had to remove it to change brake rotors. I used a 1/2 24" breaker bar, no movement. I added a 6 foot piece of square tube and it broke the head of the breaker bar clean off. Warrantied the tool, and used the second one. Broke the 1/2" drive off of it. Needless to say, I was not removing that rotor...
I work for CAT and i have over 28 batteries from milwaukee and about 8k in tools.
I have the current 1/2" and 3/4" and 1" d handle impact along with the 12.0s and they work really well, havent found a mac or matco or snap on that can beat them, that said, a 1"7/16 bolt that has been sitting for a while gives the 1" some trouble. It still takes them off with a 12.0 but it takes a while, but i have found that if the 1" cant take it off then none of the 1" air impacts can do it, and some of the older ones we have hit real good.
I have the 2555 m12 1/2in stubby , the 2767 m18 1/2in high torque, and the 2864 m18 3/4 high torque, and use all 3 regularly as a tractor trailer fleet tech, spot on descriptions, the stubby is perfect for general purpose work, the 1/2in m18 for more suspension and brake work, and the 3/4in for lugnuts and drive line
My gen 2 mid torque 1/2" anvil is great. I use it on a daily basis with a swivel doing brakes and suspension. It gets majority of the fasteners off. It's rare for me to take out my high torque. The mid torque is very impressive for the size.
Milwaukee 3/8 stubby M12 all day. It's the king impact for my mower maintainance.
The 1" from the big red tool maker has been a god send for Military trucks and heavy construction vehicles. We have mostly switched over to electric tools.
1/2 inch one for me 2767-20 . The one with 1400lbs. I need the torque. I do a lot of work with crank bolts/ball joints and stuff. If anyone has worked on crank bolts before, then they know what I'm talking about. Sometimes they're absolutely crazy. It took over 1000lb/ft to break the one loose on my Honda. I broke a breaker bar on it. But this impact zipped it off no problem
The battery graphs are excellent, only have 1 of the m18 batteries in my kit now days. It's filled with m12. Smaller n gets the job done just the same. Beside the little circ saw, I feel it needs more beans
I have the brushless m18 1/4" driver that is supposed to put out 133 ft-lbs, I do both our car lug nuts with it. It has a very surprising amount of torque, especially considering the tiny 1/4" adapters you have to use. I'm impressed.
I use my m18 Milwaukee 1/4" impact from the often on sale for $119 kit to take off my lug nuts several times a year with no issue, yes after being properly torqued.
They are awesome tools. These are for heavy duty use for many years. I'll never even wear out my Stanley tools around home. I hide them when the pros show up and take out my Festool vacuum to show that I'm serious. 😅
thank you for this! personally, i never met anything my 18v Fuel Surge could drive or loosen but it hasn't seen any suspension/engine work. 1/4 impact have gotten too fast, too loud and too powerful for what people really need them for. i love more power but the last 4-5 Gens are not too useful where luckily the Surge swooped in and saved us all. and QUIET! perfect for interior work especially since newest 12v Bosch drivers got louder for no reason. a m18 Surge and a mid torque and you're good to go for most around the house/car jobs. 12v Bosch's are more refined and work better. the m12 fat grip just kills me and is not comfortable at all. Bosch is Snap-on 7.2v tiny where M12 are oversized and ridiculous and just not useful.
Excellent test for Milwaukee cordless power tool users. When a user of these tools invests in the Milwaukee batteries, the user is kinda "stuck" buying Milwaukee tools. But, the tools are so durable, I cannot complain about being "stuck." And this test is GREAT for those "stuck" users, allowing them to pick and choose the correct Milwaukee tool for the job. Very, very nice!
We use the 1in D handle to do track work on the railroad. Its a serious piece of kit.
The impact driver, m12 stubby 3/8 and 1/2” mid torque will take care of any DIY homeowners needs, if you’re a pro you will love the 1/2” high torque but already have a good pneumatic.
Truck shop in SW Michigan. The 3/4 has been my go to for over a year now for big torque jobs. Since I started buying 6.0s, there have been few things it can't do. One of my protégé just bought one for himself for tire changes.
The 1/2 inch will take of big nut on trucks did get stuck on u bolt on leaf springs but the 1 inch delt with it this is a very big truck and it does a good job.
I have the competition makita and I use my 3/8 a lot but I will say my 1/2 still get used a lot. The 3/8 still seems to fall short in some areas but it definitely fits a lot of nice areas and is key in my tool car while the 1/2 sits in the box more.
I really enjoy my m12 right angle hex driver for majority of vehicle work. I use it more than my 3/8" stubby impact.
Great clip. Especially with the chart that shows were you can use it. Most people look what thet should by for the job they want to do and with such charts it makes it way more understandable. Thank you and please do this with the chart more
I own two 18 wheelers and have changed a bunch of tires with a 2864 until I was able to get a 1 inch ext anvil.
New mid torque is hands downs more useful than high torque.
I haven’t used my high since I got the mid extremely impressed at package size and power.
Probably would've been more cost effective for me to buy the mid torque, even as a tech. But I bought my high torque 2 years ago and have only encountered half a dozen bolts too seized for it to remove.
Very informative indeed ... great to see the graphical representation of "how much torque for the job" chart, which would apply regardless of brand of tool. Sixteen minutes well spent. Thanks to Milwaukee for making so many models to confuse t.f. out of the buyer, but even more thanks to TTC for explaining the differences between models.
Yea I feel the same, Milwaukee has some many numbers and names and different batteries it feels overwhelming sometimes especially when its a 300-500 dollar purchase
What an absolutely beautiful and informative video!! I can't imagine all the work to put together this 16 min video. Thank you! Milwaukee is definitely a great brand!
My first ever power tool was the huge 26v cordless ratchet from kobalt. I quickly returned it and got m12 stubby impact with high torque ratchet. Only wanted the ratchet but home depot drags you into the deals and now I only use ratchet for brake bolts. Everything else, stubby. I’ve noticed tho, half wheel nuts the stubby isn’t strong enough. Suspension bolts are a long shot tho. All that rust is a different level for m12. There’s no chance. I kinda wanna get 1/2 m18 but I don’t like spending money sooo. If I were to get one i think id get mid torque 1/2 just cuz it’s smaller and 650lbs is probably enough for everything on a car
I'm getting the mid-level impact that does 400-450. Just need it for changing tires on my cars. Tested one at my work place and it's so comfortable and smooth in that size.
I’ve torque turned 18mm head bolts 120 degrees from 300 ftlbs with my 2767. Yes it took it a long time but they were in a tight spot and that 1/2 Milly saved me from using a breaker bar.
I am an ironworker and we use the 1inch pistol all the time. It works great but there is times a tone gun is needed
I use the m12 stubby 1/2" at work all the time and it even gets most lugnuts off, super handy tool
My killer combo - m12 hex stubby, m12 3/8” stubby, 1/2” mid torque, and 3/8 m12 ratchet.
Sweet just got mid torque and glad to see is all I will need.
Glad I bought a Milwaukee 2962-20, I am going to be happy with it!!!
I can feel the vibrations through your videos
The M2555-20 the 1/2” is I think still $179 for the impact with a 2ah and 4ah xtra output battery and case, at Home Depot, what a steal, just got mine delivered over the weekend!
Hey TTC! You hear about the new M12 High Output batteries? I know they’re not out on the market yet, but I’d love to see you test them on the M12 stubby when you can get your hands on some. There will be a CP2.5 and an XC5.0. Would love to see the power difference not only between the HO5.0 and the XC6.0, but also against DeWalt’s compact again.
Agreed, we're awaiting them going on sale
I have the 1/2 drive 2767 and it's more than enough power for the basic diyer at home. Honestly overkill but I'd rather have too much power than to come up short. The high output XC8.0 battery is great too. I also got a Sawzall. I guess tools are my toys now haha.
I need all of them, thanks for asking.
This video was two years ago. Could you please do an update version of this for Milwaukee and one for Dewalt as well, the timing seems good and would be appreciated. Thank you for your great work!
We bought the 3/4" impact for pipe flange nuts that took a 2" socket. It would help spin them down faster but wasn't enough to torque. We had to use Norbar torque guns that could do 4000Nm. We hired them though, they're 10k+ to buy
Thanks to your channel I said goodbye to my Bauer driver, drill and 1/2" impact! Welcoming the DeWalt 12v extreme series drill, driver set and got the dcf901 for free! That 901 for 12v is crazy powerful. Absolutely love it! Dcf891 on the way real soon. Keep up the great work man
I have an M12 stubby and it’s great and my most used impact. I bought a mid torque and I’ve only ran into one instance where it it got off what stubby wouldn’t… I want a high torque now.
Love Milwaukee. We run there tools in the shop everyday have for years. Great line up of tools and battery's.
I used the 1/2” high torque at work almost everyday and I use it to remove 1 5/8 lugs ( International school buses ) and I’ve never had a problem with it. But I would like to set up to the 3/4 and this video helped a lot with my decision on if I’m going to get it or not
Just get ingersoll rand a 3k 1” D handle
@@maxuabo I like the IR brand but all I have is Milwaukee right now and I don’t wanna worry about different characters or running out of batteries
i have the m18 high torque and m12 stubby. the stubby was able to remove front axel nuts off a 2012 gmc sierra 1500
I own a 2962 and it was an absolute game changer for me, even with the lesser 5.0 battery
Hi. Been working with cars +15years with rachet and breakbar as home mechanic mainly. At last upgrading to impact machines and been watching few days Milwaukee impact wrench's. Here in Europe they have different model coding, but i believe models i have been looking are 2967-20 "new gen high-torque" and 2962-20 " new gen mid-torque". Now noticed that 9/2/2024 they are releasing new stubby 550ftlbs. I will buy the high torque for harmonic balancer bolt etc. But what would you do. Buy the Mid-torque 650ftlbs or wait +month and buy the new stubby for main impact machine. smaller weaker?? But not in hurry with this. Br Teemu
I am a m12 3/8 stubby and m18 gen 1 mid torque user. I yet to find a job I can’t do with either of this yet. Small stuff gets the m12, big stuff gets the mid torque. That’s including changinging wheels on my tractor only a few weeks ago, it did impact for a whole 2 seconds before starting to shift them but it did it. I had a high torque before but found it too bulky to carry around in my tool bag at work so got the mid torque as a replacement
Having used cheapo stuff for years all day every day, this week I went bought a 1/2" Milwaukee ratchet, a 1/2" Hi torque & a 3/4" hi torque - spent all week going "Blimey.." as they whipped off stuff my previous junk wouldn't touch.
My "real world" conclusion is I should have bought them years ago & saved myself endless hours fighting tight rusted fastners. Did a full axle replacement on a Toyota 4*4 today & not a single bolt troubled the 1/2" hi-torque even slightly despite everything being corroded. Every bolt came off in seconds. Last week, that would have been a nightmare task, this week it was a doddle. Am I sold? Yes I am.
As a mobile forklift mechanic I use the m18 impact driver everyday and it’s surprising what it can take off. I’ve broken several 3/8 adapters lol.
Nice comparison!! Stubby, mid, and high tq have done everything I needed so far. Only required the high tq once, but was so glad I had it to continue the job. Stubby actually gets the most usage without fear of damaging anything. Finish with the Tq wrench.
Couldn't have said it better brother 😎
damn these are really well made can watch them all day long
I don't know how helpful I find it, as I am no mechanic... But it is a very beautiful video full of red!!😍
So i run an m18 high torque on a 5.0. Down in Florida working on tractors, small heavy equipment like a cat416d and vehicles, it has enough uuga dugas to do the job, anything rustier and in need some big stuff. My personal experience
Beste 1/2 ? 3/4 ?
Driving screws into cement bathroom flooring sheeting with a M18FMTIW2F12-0 into 120 year old hardwood, I’ve now got quite serious tennis elbow.