Finally a video showing the anode rod on the hot water line. I must have watched 100 videos of anode rod replacements trying to find one with it in the hot water line. So thank you!
thank you thank you thank you! Most of the other videos had the anode rod in a different location. You were the first to show the Bradford White under the hot water outlet which made things so much easier
I just did this today and I had a heck of a time getting the new anode rod to thread into the tank. The problem was the top cover was not lined up well with the tank ports. I had to remove the top cover part of the tank and rotate it so it lined up better and then I was able to get the new rod to thread in without too much trouble. Should have been much easier to replace, but I'm just glad I got it replaced. I had to replace the gas valve last week due to a water leak and thought this part would be super easy to do.
I think this might have missed a few key points - securing the cold water supply (you can see he did it because the ball valve is off at the start of the video, but it wasn't mentioned). Shouldn't you also move the gas reg valve to either "low" or "pilot" setting so it doesn't try to heat the tank while you are working, and then release the pressure on the tank before breaking the hot water union?
@John Gori Very Good Point, to people who searched anode rod and found this video. The reason he didn't mention it is because this Video is a second part of a two part Annual Water Tank Maintenance. In the first part, where he flushes the tank, he does mention all of this. A quick summary of the previous video would be nice next time.
Yes he should of mentioned that you should turn the water heater off so you don’t burn up the heating elements. But as far as turning off cold feed/partially draining hot side if needed, if you don’t realize that then you probably shouldn’t be working on your water heater & should just call a plumber. Lol
Thank you for the demonstration, this was very useful! Side note, applying both thread compound and Teflon tape can result in too much material on the threads, which can lead to improper threading or a seal that is actually less effective. The excess material might also clog the system downstream. Some manufacturers specify not to use both, as it can void warranties or lead to failures in the system due to incompatible materials.
Terrific and informative videos on how to consistently maintain a Bradford White water heater, and how to change the anode rod. So clearly and well explained, very well done! Thank you so much!
Good video thanks for creating. One note I would add. When ordering your new Anode Rode be sure to include a new heat trap. Mine was so corroded I was not able to transfer and reuse. You would think Bradford White would have included in the replacement rod.
One complication stopped me and made me call the plumber to do this. The anode rod is torqued to a very high degree. I torqued on it until the entire tank moved and it would not break free. I was worried that I may break something so I stopped. The plumber used a hefty pipe wrench and really leaned into it. It took a good size man with a lot of muscle to unscrew it. Next time I will use my pipe wrench with a handle extender to get the leverage I need. He also said any pipe thread sealer that says TFE is suitable to seal the threads.
Thanks for this very clear description. My Bradford White TTW1 is in an unfinished partial basement, with only 23" clearance from the top of the heater to the bottom of the 1st-floor floorboards above it. Is there a way to replace the anode in this situation without disconnecting everything (including the propane line) and tilting it? Is that clearance enough to allow inserting a standard anode, at an angle? -Tom
Some of the other anode rod replacement videos show or describe a bendable rod that has sections cut of the primary sacrificial metal with the central connecting element remaining stiff but flexible enough for low overhead clearance areas. I haven't seen one for the Bradford Whites specifically (or on the parts list I browsed for mine), so that would be a special case. Hopefully there is one available for yours or you might have to drain the H2O and disconnect the gas/electric line and pull it out to a space you can slide in the non flexible one as shown in this video.
@@vinista256 I have hard water and it was recommended to swap the magnesium for aluminum by my FIL. He was a plumber. I’m not an expert so I took him at his word.
I have two follows up to a question below: If the rod is 3' long and is only corroded approximately 6" from top down and 6" from bottom up, that leaves 24" (2/3) of remaining consumable magnesium before replacement is needed, correct? Hypothetically, if this check was done 3 years after new installation and the corrosion rate is constant, the rod should last another 6 years before needing replacement, correct? If the first inspection was done only one year after new installation, I might replace the rod if they are only $40 and check it again in two years expecting to have approximately one more year of life left in it. Also, I'm not clear on the horizontal electrolysis explanation - I don't understand how the corrosion only took place reverse tapering from the top and bottom and not in the middle unless there is a less corrosive "wrap" around the entire magnesium center of the rod with the magnesium exposed at the ends. Is that a correct guess or am I completely misunderstanding horizontal electrolysis? Thanks!
I inspected the anode rod of B-W today. The heater was installed 28 months ago. I am using water softener in my house. To my surprise, the rod looks intact except the top 6 inches which shows heavy corrosion. I mean this is very natural as the water at the top is the hottest and hence the corrosion. My question is should I replace the rod now or wait to see in another 28 months? Btw I would switch to other brands on my next heater replacement. This B-W design is NOT user friendly at all. Thank for the video
I wish bradfordwhite would come up with a better design for anode rod, kinda like AO Smith so you don't have to remove the copper pipe. I come across alot of water heater that are hard piped in with no union so now it takes longer to swap out these anode rods on bradfordwhite they are the only manufacturer that has the anode rod built into the hot side connection.
That's the way my gas lines were done on my water heater, it made the job much more difficult than it had to be but it's all designed to come apart and go back together. I thought about adding the union, but I likely will never have to do this particular job on this water heater ever again due to it's age.
I have an electric Bradford White water heater, ( 50 gal. ), and need to change out the anode............how do you know which rod to get to replace the existing rod ?.......is aluminum better or is magnesium....does it matter ? .....any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you !
Good video ... you did not explain the regulator inside the tube and what is the white opening below the threads. Please explain the cold water anode rod. Thanks.
It was tough and I felt like giving up but for some reason I kept thinking about the first Rocky movie with Apollo Creed vs the Italian Stallion. Mickey said stuff like; “Keep hittin' 'em in the ribs ya see? Don't let that bastard breathe!” and “You're gonna eat lightnin' and you're gonna crap thunder!”
What kind of channel-lock is that? I need to get one. Also, I'm going to have to use a hacksaw on the OEM anode rod I bought, because it's 5' long (even though it's the exact part-number on the BW heater I have), so I'll have to trim it a bit. Important tool to have if you have everything undone already, but your rod is too long for the tank.
QUESTION: at the 2:40 mark you indicate the electrolysis goes flat ways, not up and down. Are you inferring that when the anode rod has a corroded section (in the video the top and bottom portions of the rod) that the corresponding level on the tank will no longer be protected...?? The degradation of your anode rod didn't look to be that substantial. Are anode rods solid aluminum / magnesium, or just an outer layer... it was my understanding the rods were solid and even the "crusty" looking part was still protective aluminum / magnesium...
I have two follow up questions to yours for clarification: If the rod is 3' long and is only corroded approximately 6" from top down and 6" from bottom up, that leave 24" (2/3) of remaining consumable magnesium before replacement is needed, correct? Speaking purely hypothetically, if this check was done 3 years after install and the corrosion rate is constant, the rod should last another 6 years before needing replacement, correct? If the check was done only one year after new install, I might replace it if they are only $40 and check it again in two years expecting to have approximately one more year of life left in it. Als, I'm not clear on the horizontal electrolysis explanation - I don't understand how the corrosion only took place reverse tapering from the top bottom and not in the middle unless there is a less corrosive "wrap" around the entire magnesium center of the rod with the magnesium exposed at the top end and the bottom ends. Is that a correct guess or am I completely misunderstanding horizontal electrolysis? Thanks!
Good Day. Thanks for the instructional video. I have a Bradford White M250S6DS-1NCZZ which is about 15 years old and we have lived in this house for 8 years. I know the anode has not been touched in those 8 ears but have no idea before then, so it could be 15 years old. It is not so easy to inspect the anode because the hot and cold water lines are normal copper (not flexible) and are soldered onto the inlets. I have purchased new parts (including a flexible line) to swap out. Just wondering if you have any special tips for removal of an anode that could be 8-15 years old?.... thanks very much in advance.
On your own home you have the luxury of using a solvent like wd 40 multiple times, I would use pipe wrenches at least an 18" on the hot and use a back up pipe wrench on the cold nipple ,the back up wrench will help to give you leverage the bigger the wrench the easier the twist, stay away from channel locks on your project, one more tip double check that YOUR anode is on the hot water side, some are independent under a large nut on the top, if you still have a problem moving the nipple or nut with solvent and back up, possibly use heat (torch)
This is a great channel. I look forward to seeing more videos. Can you do a video on how to install all of the components around a Navien for a radiant floor heat application?
In case you are still experiencing smelly hot water, there is a service bulletin by Bradford White on this issue: www.bradfordwhite.com/forthepro-bulletins/hydrogen-sulfide-odor-rotten-egg-smell-and-chlorinating-water-heaters/
Can an eroded rod/threads cause water to leak out onto the top and down the unit? Im near certain the old threads are the culprit of my leak, but since its the threads its below the top metal plate and cant get a visual like an exterior leak.
I've never had a water heater where they used unions at the top, I've always had to cut the pipe. I think some plumbers do this on purpose because most home owners don't know how to sweat pipe.
My Bradford water heater anode rod is recessed into the top tank. Only the threads are exposed above the top cover of the tank. Is there a special removal and installation tool? Or, do I have to disassemble the top of the tank to remove and install the anode rod? Thanks
I wish I would have done my homework on the Bradford white prior to installing it for a customer. I told them how great powered anode rods are. I put them in every water heater on a well system. With this Bradford white I’m going to have to charge a customer every 4-5 years to put a new rod in. I have never seen this type of design before but that’s what I get for being in a rush to get a customer up and running. I was debating if I could put a rod on the cold side as well but I feel like the water would “short cycle” without going to the bottom of the tank.
My 75 gallon Bradford White from 2020 has a dedicated anode rod hole instead of the hot water outlet. My problem is that they say the anode rod is about 50” long and yet I only have about 30” of ceiling clearance. Ughh.
Is there any way to use a Corro-Protec anode rod with this style water heater? This is what was in our house. It's definitely due to be replaced, and we have fairly heavy sulfur smell.
3-5 years I keep hearing. We have a water softener, and after 5 years (last year) the rod was corroded about halfway. Replacing it this year. They say soft water makes it more necessary to replace the rod more frequently, but 6 years isn't too bad! Most water heaters last about 10 years, but with good maintenance (like this, flush/drain, inspections, etc) it can last 20 years or more.
Video was informative, but replacement not so easy. We have a two story house with the water heater in the basement. Shut off the house water and the inlet to the water heater. When I started to loosen the union, water started flowing. Need to open a faucet on the second floor ( be sure to remove the aerator, then replace later.) then drain some of the water in the hot water tank. This allows the water in the house pipes to drain into the tank. So I loosened the union, and tried to remove the anode rod with the bottom part of the union as one unit as the video shows. No luck as the union came off easy. Now the old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case, which is probably more likely. So I put it back together and decided to replace the unit at the 10 year mark. Currently at 7 years. Replacement will not be a Bradford White, but a unit with a separate anode rod. I had previously changed out the anode rod every 5 years. Took me an extra 2 years to figure out the integrated anode rod - water supply thing.
I'm with you on that John, mine also only has about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch of threads exposed. I could use a pipe wrench on those threads but if it doesn't come out its a thousand plus bucks to replace the entire water heater. maybe I could remove all inlet, outlet, and over pressure device then remove the top cap on the heater (small sheet metal screws) to gain access to the unthreaded part of the rod. the more I think about it putting a pipe wrench on the last 1/4 inch of the threads would likely crush the pipe. that's a bad, bad idea, bad.
When doing a fixture repair, particularly in the basement, you are almost ALWAYS going to get water. The best thing to do is shut the main to the house off and open whatever water fixture is lowest in the house (a basement faucet or an outdoor garden hose bib) and allow the water to drain down. You will almost always still have water on the hot side so when working on the water heater, make sure it is powered off and drain water for the heater itself. Once done, be sure the water heater is completely full before turning the power back on or you will be replacing heating elements next. This is the life of a plumber.
Quote "Now the old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case, which is probably more likely." EXACTLY. What to do?
I just replaced mine today. I placed a 3/8" deep socket into the old rod - taped at the top so it would not fall all the way into the tube. This will prevent it from collapsing. It took some courage but I took the 18" pipe wrench and applied a fair amount of pressure on the pipe/anode and it spun right out. I also wire brushed the threads in the hole on top of the tank. The new one, purchased from BW has PTFE applied to the threads. I assembled it hand tight and tightened it when I installed the connecting fitting to the top of the new tube / anode.
Ok, folks, here's a question. Just learned all these water heater maintenance ideas for my 20-year-old heater! [New homeowner in brand new home 20 years ago, wth did I know!?] Anyhow, wondering if it's worth messing around with this now. No problems with the water heater. Maybe just wait 'til it doesn't work and buy a new one? Or, try this to get another 5-10 years out of the heater and if it doesn't go ok, buy the new heater? 🙂
Either do this, or just proactively change out the tank. The issue is that, when the tank fails due to corrosion, it's going to leak and get water EVERYWHERE.
You could change out the anode rod but you might not be able to get a new rod in there with all that sediment thats been piling up for 20 years,, half joking... but who knows... 20 years with no maintenance, I would say you definitely got your money's worth!
@@motogp9253 I think I'm just going to wait and see. Person above thinks when it goes there will be a flood but there is a 3" high tray under it so.... maybe not! [Famous last words]. Who knows, maybe I'll spring for a new one before any potential disasters. :-) I've sure learned a lot through this process of investigating the situation.
Flush your water heater. If its full of sediment then replace it. Also, motogp9253 has a point. The female threads for the anode my be corroded. I would get a 3/4 NPT pipe tap to chase the threads it you do remove the anode. Most of these water heaters are ~$1k. A new anode rode is ~$100. That said 20 years is amazing. Maybe your municipal water is not too bad.
I have a large Bradford White Water Heater it was installed 9 years ago..I never knew about this rod replacement. Is it too late to do it now ? One guy at Heating Oil place said forget it by now it's fused together. Let it run it's course and replace.
For what it’s worth, I finally did mine after fifteen years. The old one wouldn’t come out so I had two choices, cut it off and let it drop or what I ultimately did was tie a string through the outlet hole, cut it off above it and lower it in. Then used a file to get the crust around the base of the threads and then used the string to pull the old one out. The new one corrected the issue of the original having only threads exposed to remove it thereby definitely ruining it. So once the new one was in I had to cut the copper and re-sweat to be shorter. While I was at it I drained the tank and used one of those hose attachments to clean the base of the tank and installed an electronic scale blaster. Everything worked out fine and the scale blaster has helped to radically reduce the scale. It doesn’t necessarily eliminate it but it’s now a wipeable powder rather than a had crust.
I may be incorrect, but I was told there should be continuity between the threads on the anode rod and the water heater....so...don't use a lot of pipe tape...only teflon pipe dope.
Nothing against this video, thank you for making it. But how did the engineers remotely think this was a good design choice?? What a headache (and opportunity to introduce leaks) it is to have to disconnect the hot water outlet. I'm disappointed my house came with this model.
@@Prosecute-fauci my complaint is that a well-designed water heater (which Bradford White isn't) wouldn't incorporate the anode into the hot water connection, it would have an anode that can be replaced without disconnecting any water connections.
@@agentmango the reason I am saying that it’s actually the most convenient method is because the other brands require you to completely disassemble the top of the water heater to get to the anode rod. This includes both the cold and hot water connections.
I have to cut mine down about 1 foot. Yeah good point don’t forget the breaker and turn it off then the water supply. Drain a bit also. Open the hot water downstairs and drain a bit.
Amazon sells them or a plumbing supply store that sells their water heaters should have them. BW doesn't sell to the public so your hardware store usually won't have them
Thanks! This helps. My issue is that the union piece connecting the current anode piece to the copper pipe doesn't have a spinning bolt, but instead the copper pipe looks to be crimped into a joint which is screwed directly into the union piece. The copper pipe is then connect to PEX. Could I just unscrew the copper pipe from the PEX and union piece, or would I need to actually cut it? Thanks!
@@Sxjones3Never moved past this step. I still have the same anode rod in place. If I perform this myself, I assume I'll try and unscrew the copper pipe from the PEX and union piece.
I've seen other videos that say drain only a couple gallons. You'll need the rest of the "weight" of the water to keep the tank steady when you start cranking the wrench.
Mine is NOT as shown. The old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface above the tank is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case. HELP!
Excellent Point! Threads only above the top necessitate REPLACING the anode rod instead of inspecting it and putting it back in if it's got life left in it. NOT GOOD, BW! Butcher your threads.
Anyone happen to know of a replacement ARTICULATED anode that will fit on a Bradford White URG 2100 H6N? I'm having a hard time finding this information and my plumber is not being helpful.
Interested for a follow up post, was one available? I called the manufacturer for a part number since my unit was super old. One person in the comments also wanted a flexible rod for a BW unit.
@@ullrsdream I gave up. My plan now is to simply replace it when it gets past 10 years of age. I'm hoping that by that time there will be non-steel tank options on the market.
powered? Please explain. These parts function solely on chemical processes that happen between H2O and the metal of the anode rod. I think the youtuber mentions a powered exhaust venting set up rather than a passive chimney, but I'm not familiar with a powered setup for venting. Probably like a bathroom exhaust fan, it will force air to exit the pipe and water heater area than simply letting heat rise and carry the gases away. Cheers.
It would be so much easier if they would just separate the anode rod from the supply. Especially if you are just inspecting, the cost is less for the customer and the job is easier for the service person. I avoid these tanks for that reason, there are equal or better tanks with a separate rod.
Unsure how I feel about pipe dope inside my water heater, will water come into contact with the lower portion where you applied teflon tape and pipe dope?
He left this stuff out. Yes, you should turn the power off (on electric), or turn the gas to pilot or vacation, then turn off the cold water inlet, open a tub faucet, and drain a couple gallons from the tank. Perhaps even wait an hour or two so the tank is cooler.
Just a common sense point out before you get someone killed or burned with hot water. The water should be turned off and the boiler off or set to a very low temp so it doesn't initiate. Also pressure from any hot water faucet should be opened to relieve pressure..
I tried to change out my B-W anode rod yesterday. When I got the hot water outlet pipe disconnected, the only thing above the top of the water heater itself was the threads--no grip surfaces were exposed. There's no outlet nipple. How do I get the anode rod out?
@@Vl7248 No! It did not break off. Ive seen two of these, cause I've got one. Only the the threads are above the top of the metal cabinet. can you remove the top cap on the metal cabinet after removing the 5 short screws that holds it to the main top part of the outside cabinet? Im having trouble doing that.
@@davidshreve8368 BW doesn't give you much nipple to grab. Some people suggest dropping a 5/8” bolt into the nipple. You have to grab the threads with the pipe wrench. It sucks that you have to destroy the nipple to get it out.
Used to be plumbers didn't use dielectric couplers because of ignorance of how electrolysis works after the learned they knew most people don't know they need replacement at regular intervals most won't tell as they know that soon after they are used up your tank develops a pinhole and starts to leak a hole that gradually increases meaning you need a new tank sometimes in less than 5 years and that is covered under warranty they must be hurting bad now that pex is the new normal tanks properly installed with dielectric couplers will regularly last 30 years or more before sucoming to the other killer of gas hot water tanks sentiment on the bottom of the tank another unit causing tank replacement is the dip tube wearing out and when you ask a plumber why you only get 5 gallon of hot water they tell you it needs to be replaced an expensive cost when a 100 dollars max replacement of dip tube will fix the problem you're the first utube video I've seen on fixing the problem of tank corrosion so maybe there are still some good plumbers out there although one thing I never did was leave a tank hooked up without dielectric couplers installed
Douglas - OMG this sounds like you really know what you are talking about but I can barely follow most of it because it's one loooooooooooooooooooooooong sentence with not one period!
TFE tape is not recommended. Because it’s non-conductive, if you apply too much and the thread won’t crash it then the anode rod and the tank body won’t contact. The anode rod doesn’t work. So cream style sealer is better.
I was going to do that, but because there could be issues with the fittings/threads, etc. I bit the bullet and ordered the correct part number from supplyhouse.
Good video. Sure seems a poor design to have an anode rod which requires plumbing disassembly. My existing water heater has dedicated threaded outlets for anodes. No removal of pipes required. Much easier.
Has anyone ever installed a plug in anode rod on a Bradford White (power pack to AC outlet)? It looks like a long term solution, but at $180.00 I want to ask first! Thanks!
I bought this water heater ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Unfortunately for me, my hot water copper pipe does not have a free spinning union junction to the outlet pipe. It has a hard soldered copper connection. I would have to call a plumber to disconnect the pipe 😒 I guess this is done to discourage DIY maintenance and to shorten the life span of the tank generating more revenue for the plumbers.
Just cut the pipe 12” or so above connection to water heater and buy a shark bite connector to put it back together. The plumbing fittings now days are meant for DIYers.
It's done by a plumber who didn't want to spend $5 for a union. But don't worry, you'd never wrench that anode rod out of a Bradford White after five years anyway.
Same here. I will look for a different brand once this one is done for. I understand wanting to keep sales up, but these manufacturers need to considered DIYers. I have mouths to feed, cannot keep hiring "professionals" to do simple household maintenance.
OK overall but you wrapped the teflon tape onto the anode rod threading BACKWARDS. .Also, you didn't sho0w shutting off the water or draining the tank as part of this procedure.
I’ve been plumbing for over a decade I never seen anyone put dope on the threads then tape. Usually tape then dope. Interesting I guess haha 1 Corinthians 15:1-4 King James Version 15 Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand; 2 By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain. 3 For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures; 4 And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures:
Finally a video showing the anode rod on the hot water line. I must have watched 100 videos of anode rod replacements trying to find one with it in the hot water line. So thank you!
thank you thank you thank you! Most of the other videos had the anode rod in a different location. You were the first to show the Bradford White under the hot water outlet which made things so much easier
I just did this today and I had a heck of a time getting the new anode rod to thread into the tank. The problem was the top cover was not lined up well with the tank ports. I had to remove the top cover part of the tank and rotate it so it lined up better and then I was able to get the new rod to thread in without too much trouble. Should have been much easier to replace, but I'm just glad I got it replaced. I had to replace the gas valve last week due to a water leak and thought this part would be super easy to do.
I think this might have missed a few key points - securing the cold water supply (you can see he did it because the ball valve is off at the start of the video, but it wasn't mentioned). Shouldn't you also move the gas reg valve to either "low" or "pilot" setting so it doesn't try to heat the tank while you are working, and then release the pressure on the tank before breaking the hot water union?
If you need someone to show you this you shouldn't be permitted to own tools.
@John Gori
Very Good Point, to people who searched anode rod and found this video.
The reason he didn't mention it is because this Video is a second part of a two part Annual Water Tank Maintenance. In the first part, where he flushes the tank, he does mention all of this. A quick summary of the previous video would be nice next time.
@@eegg6954 stfu gatekeeper
Yes he should of mentioned that you should turn the water heater off so you don’t burn up the heating elements. But as far as turning off cold feed/partially draining hot side if needed, if you don’t realize that then you probably shouldn’t be working on your water heater & should just call a plumber. Lol
@@WillDesignedpeople come to YT to learn. Your plumbers weren't born knowing this either and had to be told at some point.
Thank you for the demonstration, this was very useful!
Side note, applying both thread compound and Teflon tape can result in too much material on the threads, which can lead to improper threading or a seal that is actually less effective. The excess material might also clog the system downstream. Some manufacturers specify not to use both, as it can void warranties or lead to failures in the system due to incompatible materials.
Terrific and informative videos on how to consistently maintain a Bradford White water heater, and how to change the anode rod. So clearly and well explained, very well done! Thank you so much!
Good video thanks for creating. One note I would add. When ordering your new Anode Rode be sure to include a new heat trap. Mine was so corroded I was not able to transfer and reuse. You would think Bradford White would have included in the replacement rod.
Your excellent video confirmed what my local contractor proposed here in Pennsylvania, regarding how to change the anode.
One complication stopped me and made me call the plumber to do this. The anode rod is torqued to a very high degree. I torqued on it until the entire tank moved and it would not break free. I was worried that I may break something so I stopped. The plumber used a hefty pipe wrench and really leaned into it. It took a good size man with a lot of muscle to unscrew it. Next time I will use my pipe wrench with a handle extender to get the leverage I need.
He also said any pipe thread sealer that says TFE is suitable to seal the threads.
possible put a back up wrench on the cold nipple
I've seen one recommendation of not draining the tank completely first but do turn the heater off so it has mass to stay put.
Impact wrench
@@jamesrecknor6752 You can't use an impact wrench on the Bradford White setup. It's different from the standard setup on other water heaters.
@@rolig3518 Is it because the impact wrench will unscrew the connector instead of the rod?
Thank you very much for your guide, I couldn't find it on my water heater, now I can. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I'm so tempted to buy a pair of Knipex slip joint pliers!
Thanks for this very clear description. My Bradford White TTW1 is in an unfinished partial basement, with only 23" clearance from the top of the heater to the bottom of the 1st-floor floorboards above it. Is there a way to replace the anode in this situation without disconnecting everything (including the propane line) and tilting it? Is that clearance enough to allow inserting a standard anode, at an angle? -Tom
Some of the other anode rod replacement videos show or describe a bendable rod that has sections cut of the primary sacrificial metal with the central connecting element remaining stiff but flexible enough for low overhead clearance areas. I haven't seen one for the Bradford Whites specifically (or on the parts list I browsed for mine), so that would be a special case. Hopefully there is one available for yours or you might have to drain the H2O and disconnect the gas/electric line and pull it out to a space you can slide in the non flexible one as shown in this video.
Thank you for the video assist. I has able to replace my magnesium anode rod with an aluminum rod quickly.
Aren’t magnesium rods better?
@@vinista256 I have hard water and it was recommended to swap the magnesium for aluminum by my FIL. He was a plumber. I’m not an expert so I took him at his word.
I have two follows up to a question below: If the rod is 3' long and is only corroded approximately 6" from top down and 6" from bottom up, that leaves 24" (2/3) of remaining consumable magnesium before replacement is needed, correct? Hypothetically, if this check was done 3 years after new installation and the corrosion rate is constant, the rod should last another 6 years before needing replacement, correct? If the first inspection was done only one year after new installation, I might replace the rod if they are only $40 and check it again in two years expecting to have approximately one more year of life left in it. Also, I'm not clear on the horizontal electrolysis explanation - I don't understand how the corrosion only took place reverse tapering from the top and bottom and not in the middle unless there is a less corrosive "wrap" around the entire magnesium center of the rod with the magnesium exposed at the ends. Is that a correct guess or am I completely misunderstanding horizontal electrolysis? Thanks!
I inspected the anode rod of B-W today. The heater was installed 28 months ago. I am using water softener in my house. To my surprise, the rod looks intact except the top 6 inches which shows heavy corrosion. I mean this is very natural as the water at the top is the hottest and hence the corrosion.
My question is should I replace the rod now or wait to see in another 28 months?
Btw I would switch to other brands on my next heater replacement. This B-W design is NOT user friendly at all.
Thank for the video
I wish bradfordwhite would come up with a better design for anode rod, kinda like AO Smith so you don't have to remove the copper pipe. I come across alot of water heater that are hard piped in with no union so now it takes longer to swap out these anode rods on bradfordwhite they are the only manufacturer that has the anode rod built into the hot side connection.
I think I rather deal with open the hot water line than open the hex type since most connection is flex hose.
That's the way my gas lines were done on my water heater, it made the job much more difficult than it had to be but it's all designed to come apart and go back together. I thought about adding the union, but I likely will never have to do this particular job on this water heater ever again due to it's age.
Thank you for posting this!!
Rumor has it that the newer Bradford White water heaters no longer have a removable anode rod. Is this true?
So do you do both cold and hot sides or just the cold side? Great video
on a bradford and white the anode is on the hot side only
I have an electric Bradford White water heater, ( 50 gal. ), and need to change out the anode............how do you know which rod to get to replace the existing rod ?.......is aluminum better or is magnesium....does it matter ? .....any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you !
Yes. Aluminum rod better for hard well water/stinky water.
Good video ... you did not explain the regulator inside the tube and what is the white opening below the threads. Please explain the cold water anode rod. Thanks.
It was tough and I felt like giving up but for some reason I kept thinking about the first Rocky movie with Apollo Creed vs the Italian Stallion. Mickey said stuff like; “Keep hittin' 'em in the ribs ya see? Don't let that bastard breathe!” and “You're gonna eat lightnin' and you're gonna crap thunder!”
What kind of channel-lock is that? I need to get one. Also, I'm going to have to use a hacksaw on the OEM anode rod I bought, because it's 5' long (even though it's the exact part-number on the BW heater I have), so I'll have to trim it a bit. Important tool to have if you have everything undone already, but your rod is too long for the tank.
Knipex... supposed to be the king of slip-joint pliers! I need to get one too! But they are SOOO expensive! Probably worth it!
QUESTION: at the 2:40 mark you indicate the electrolysis goes flat ways, not up and down. Are you inferring that when the anode rod has a corroded section (in the video the top and bottom portions of the rod) that the corresponding level on the tank will no longer be protected...??
The degradation of your anode rod didn't look to be that substantial. Are anode rods solid aluminum / magnesium, or just an outer layer... it was my understanding the rods were solid and even the "crusty" looking part was still protective aluminum / magnesium...
Yes yes you're mostly right, so long as there's some metal (>50%) left it'll still be doing its job.
I have two follow up questions to yours for clarification: If the rod is 3' long and is only corroded approximately 6" from top down and 6" from bottom up, that leave 24" (2/3) of remaining consumable magnesium before replacement is needed, correct? Speaking purely hypothetically, if this check was done 3 years after install and the corrosion rate is constant, the rod should last another 6 years before needing replacement, correct? If the check was done only one year after new install, I might replace it if they are only $40 and check it again in two years expecting to have approximately one more year of life left in it. Als, I'm not clear on the horizontal electrolysis explanation - I don't understand how the corrosion only took place reverse tapering from the top bottom and not in the middle unless there is a less corrosive "wrap" around the entire magnesium center of the rod with the magnesium exposed at the top end and the bottom ends. Is that a correct guess or am I completely misunderstanding horizontal electrolysis? Thanks!
Good Day. Thanks for the instructional video. I have a Bradford White M250S6DS-1NCZZ which is about 15 years old and we have lived in this house for 8 years. I know the anode has not been touched in those 8 ears but have no idea before then, so it could be 15 years old. It is not so easy to inspect the anode because the hot and cold water lines are normal copper (not flexible) and are soldered onto the inlets. I have purchased new parts (including a flexible line) to swap out. Just wondering if you have any special tips for removal of an anode that could be 8-15 years old?.... thanks very much in advance.
On your own home you have the luxury of using a solvent like wd 40 multiple times, I would use pipe wrenches at least an 18" on the hot and use a back up pipe wrench on the cold nipple ,the back up wrench will help to give you leverage the bigger the wrench the easier the twist, stay away from channel locks on your project, one more tip double check that YOUR anode is on the hot water side, some are independent under a large nut on the top, if you still have a problem moving the nipple or nut with solvent and back up, possibly use heat (torch)
This is a great channel. I look forward to seeing more videos. Can you do a video on how to install all of the components around a Navien for a radiant floor heat application?
Excellent tutorial!!!
Your content is so touching
So that's why the warm water tastes funny ! (dissolved Anode Rod)
Thanks!! Any idea if I can find a zinc replacement rod? (Smelly hot water.)
In case you are still experiencing smelly hot water, there is a service bulletin by Bradford White on this issue: www.bradfordwhite.com/forthepro-bulletins/hydrogen-sulfide-odor-rotten-egg-smell-and-chlorinating-water-heaters/
Thanks! I put in a powered rod. Problem solved.
Can an eroded rod/threads cause water to leak out onto the top and down the unit? Im near certain the old threads are the culprit of my leak, but since its the threads its below the top metal plate and cant get a visual like an exterior leak.
I've never had a water heater where they used unions at the top, I've always had to cut the pipe. I think some plumbers do this on purpose because most home owners don't know how to sweat pipe.
My Bradford water heater anode rod is recessed into the top tank. Only the threads are exposed above the top cover of the tank. Is there a special removal and installation tool? Or, do I have to disassemble the top of the tank to remove and install the anode rod? Thanks
Wonderful if you have a long pipe that can move away from the connection. Most don't. Just make the rod separate like it should be.
Oh man, I don't have room above my hot water heater to remove the anode rod
use a hacksaw. Cover the hole so no metal shavings get in. Then replace it with a segmented rod.
I wish I would have done my homework on the Bradford white prior to installing it for a customer. I told them how great powered anode rods are. I put them in every water heater on a well system.
With this Bradford white I’m going to have to charge a customer every 4-5 years to put a new rod in. I have never seen this type of design before but that’s what I get for being in a rush to get a customer up and running.
I was debating if I could put a rod on the cold side as well but I feel like the water would “short cycle” without going to the bottom of the tank.
Unless the water's really hideous, that heater should get you 12 years without ever touching the rod.
We are on year 11 same water heater.. water is still hot as balls
My 75 gallon Bradford White from 2020 has a dedicated anode rod hole instead of the hot water outlet. My problem is that they say the anode rod is about 50” long and yet I only have about 30” of ceiling clearance. Ughh.
Is there an anode rod on both pipes (inlet/outlet)?
Can I cut 2 inches off the rod? Unit is on a stand so I have a clearance limit from the top to the ceiling.
Is there any way to use a Corro-Protec anode rod with this style water heater? This is what was in our house. It's definitely due to be replaced, and we have fairly heavy sulfur smell.
Thanks! Great video!
how often should this be done?
The manual says ever 2 years
3-5 years I keep hearing. We have a water softener, and after 5 years (last year) the rod was corroded about halfway. Replacing it this year. They say soft water makes it more necessary to replace the rod more frequently, but 6 years isn't too bad! Most water heaters last about 10 years, but with good maintenance (like this, flush/drain, inspections, etc) it can last 20 years or more.
What are the symptoms if the Anode vale is out
Video was informative, but replacement not so easy. We have a two story house with the water heater in the basement. Shut off the house water and the inlet to the water heater. When I started to loosen the union, water started flowing. Need to open a faucet on the second floor ( be sure to remove the aerator, then replace later.) then drain some of the water in the hot water tank. This allows the water in the house pipes to drain into the tank. So I loosened the union, and tried to remove the anode rod with the bottom part of the union as one unit as the video shows. No luck as the union came off easy. Now the old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case, which is probably more likely.
So I put it back together and decided to replace the unit at the 10 year mark. Currently at 7 years.
Replacement will not be a Bradford White, but a unit with a separate anode rod. I had previously changed out the anode rod every 5 years. Took me an extra 2 years to figure out the integrated anode rod - water supply thing.
I'm with you on that John, mine also only has about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch of threads exposed. I could use a pipe wrench on those threads but if it doesn't come out its a thousand plus bucks to replace the entire water heater. maybe I could remove all inlet, outlet, and over pressure device then remove the top cap on the heater (small sheet metal screws) to gain access to the unthreaded part of the rod. the more I think about it putting a pipe wrench on the last 1/4 inch of the threads would likely crush the pipe. that's a bad, bad idea, bad.
When doing a fixture repair, particularly in the basement, you are almost ALWAYS going to get water. The best thing to do is shut the main to the house off and open whatever water fixture is lowest in the house (a basement faucet or an outdoor garden hose bib) and allow the water to drain down. You will almost always still have water on the hot side so when working on the water heater, make sure it is powered off and drain water for the heater itself. Once done, be sure the water heater is completely full before turning the power back on or you will be replacing heating elements next. This is the life of a plumber.
Quote "Now the old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case, which is probably more likely." EXACTLY. What to do?
I just replaced mine today. I placed a 3/8" deep socket into the old rod - taped at the top so it would not fall all the way into the tube. This will prevent it from collapsing. It took some courage but I took the 18" pipe wrench and applied a fair amount of pressure on the pipe/anode and it spun right out. I also wire brushed the threads in the hole on top of the tank. The new one, purchased from BW has PTFE applied to the threads. I assembled it hand tight and tightened it when I installed the connecting fitting to the top of the new tube / anode.
Do both sides have a rod, or just one?
Just the hot side.
Ok, folks, here's a question. Just learned all these water heater maintenance ideas for my 20-year-old heater! [New homeowner in brand new home 20 years ago, wth did I know!?] Anyhow, wondering if it's worth messing around with this now. No problems with the water heater. Maybe just wait 'til it doesn't work and buy a new one? Or, try this to get another 5-10 years out of the heater and if it doesn't go ok, buy the new heater? 🙂
Either do this, or just proactively change out the tank. The issue is that, when the tank fails due to corrosion, it's going to leak and get water EVERYWHERE.
You could change out the anode rod but you might not be able to get a new rod in there with all that sediment thats been piling up for 20 years,, half joking... but who knows... 20 years with no maintenance, I would say you definitely got your money's worth!
@@motogp9253 I think I'm just going to wait and see. Person above thinks when it goes there will be a flood but there is a 3" high tray under it so.... maybe not! [Famous last words]. Who knows, maybe I'll spring for a new one before any potential disasters. :-) I've sure learned a lot through this process of investigating the situation.
Flush your water heater. If its full of sediment then replace it. Also, motogp9253 has a point. The female threads for the anode my be corroded. I would get a 3/4 NPT pipe tap to chase the threads it you do remove the anode. Most of these water heaters are ~$1k. A new anode rode is ~$100. That said 20 years is amazing. Maybe your municipal water is not too bad.
How I know when my heater was installed. And where do I find the rod?.
I have a large Bradford White Water Heater it was installed 9 years ago..I never knew about this rod replacement. Is it too late to do it now ? One guy at Heating Oil place said forget it by now it's fused together. Let it run it's course and replace.
For what it’s worth, I finally did mine after fifteen years. The old one wouldn’t come out so I had two choices, cut it off and let it drop or what I ultimately did was tie a string through the outlet hole, cut it off above it and lower it in. Then used a file to get the crust around the base of the threads and then used the string to pull the old one out. The new one corrected the issue of the original having only threads exposed to remove it thereby definitely ruining it. So once the new one was in I had to cut the copper and re-sweat to be shorter. While I was at it I drained the tank and used one of those hose attachments to clean the base of the tank and installed an electronic scale blaster. Everything worked out fine and the scale blaster has helped to radically reduce the scale. It doesn’t necessarily eliminate it but it’s now a wipeable powder rather than a had crust.
I may be incorrect, but I was told there should be continuity between the threads on the anode rod and the water heater....so...don't use a lot of pipe tape...only teflon pipe dope.
Rheems are easier to do then?
You missed the initial part - how much water do you need to drain first??
his videos always half ass back
couple gallons only
Nothing against this video, thank you for making it.
But how did the engineers remotely think this was a good design choice?? What a headache (and opportunity to introduce leaks) it is to have to disconnect the hot water outlet. I'm disappointed my house came with this model.
Bradford White do not want you to change the anode rod. They prefer that you buy a new water heater sooner. Thats why they designed it in this matter.
@@powerbeast5691 shit...ima make a point of getting this sac. anode replaced
Bradford whites are the easiest water heater models to change the anode on. I’m not sure what you are complaining about.
@@Prosecute-fauci my complaint is that a well-designed water heater (which Bradford White isn't) wouldn't incorporate the anode into the hot water connection, it would have an anode that can be replaced without disconnecting any water connections.
@@agentmango the reason I am saying that it’s actually the most convenient method is because the other brands require you to completely disassemble the top of the water heater to get to the anode rod. This includes both the cold and hot water connections.
nice video...i have to take anode rod out, water has terrible oder if i don't.. is there anyway to fix that?
I heard that letting the rod get eaten up too much will start to create odors, so replacing it should help with that.
I have to cut mine down about 1 foot.
Yeah good point don’t forget the breaker and turn it off then the water supply. Drain a bit also. Open the hot water downstairs and drain a bit.
mfg do make a bendable anode rod now home depot sell it
I have one of these, but only threaded part is above the tank.
How come no water didn’t come out of the copper pipe? Unless the tank was completely drained along with the plumbing?
What is the regulator for?
How much average plumber charge To changr anode rod in bradfort white in nj?
I need this exact replacement rod where and how do I get it?
Amazon sells them or a plumbing supply store that sells their water heaters should have them. BW doesn't sell to the public so your hardware store usually won't have them
"Regulator?" Did you mean heat trap? I didn't see any heat trap in that new rod/outlet.
I think he meant heat trap. I ordered mine separately from my rod so I'd have it just in case.
Im not a plumber but what is the blue thing you applied on the thread?thank you
Thanks! This helps. My issue is that the union piece connecting the current anode piece to the copper pipe doesn't have a spinning bolt, but instead the copper pipe looks to be crimped into a joint which is screwed directly into the union piece. The copper pipe is then connect to PEX. Could I just unscrew the copper pipe from the PEX and union piece, or would I need to actually cut it? Thanks!
Curious if you ever got this figured out. I have the same issue.
@@Sxjones3Never moved past this step. I still have the same anode rod in place. If I perform this myself, I assume I'll try and unscrew the copper pipe from the PEX and union piece.
I noticed that you didn't use a Heat Trap? Is this not needed?
Curious, do you have to drain the tank before this process?
I've seen other videos that say drain only a couple gallons. You'll need the rest of the "weight" of the water to keep the tank steady when you start cranking the wrench.
Mine is NOT as shown. The old anode rod is stuck and the only gripping surface above the tank is the threads. If I damage the threads and cannot get the old anode rod out, I am in trouble. Nothing in the video about what to do in this case. HELP!
Just get a solid grip on it, wd-40 the hell out of it, get a long pipe for more leverage, and PUUUUSH
The whole tank may move a bit before you break it free. Don't worry, it's a big ol' thread, it won't break and leave you stranded.
@@ivanvarela3215 Yep, it all went just like you said. They really could put more of it above the tank though. Thanks.
Excellent Point! Threads only above the top necessitate REPLACING the anode rod instead of inspecting it and putting it back in if it's got life left in it. NOT GOOD, BW! Butcher your threads.
Thany you very much sir
so did you unscrew the hot or cold water pipe? cant tell in the video. whats under the other one?
It's the hot. You can see it at 0:45 if you look at the letters stamped into the tank
So I can't install the electrical anode rode .?
so it looks like I would need at least three feet of clearance above the heater in order to do this, is that correct?
Anyone happen to know of a replacement ARTICULATED anode that will fit on a Bradford White URG 2100 H6N? I'm having a hard time finding this information and my plumber is not being helpful.
Interested for a follow up post, was one available? I called the manufacturer for a part number since my unit was super old. One person in the comments also wanted a flexible rod for a BW unit.
@@ullrsdream I gave up. My plan now is to simply replace it when it gets past 10 years of age. I'm hoping that by that time there will be non-steel tank options on the market.
how is a powered anode rod installed into this type of tank?
powered? Please explain. These parts function solely on chemical processes that happen between H2O and the metal of the anode rod. I think the youtuber mentions a powered exhaust venting set up rather than a passive chimney, but I'm not familiar with a powered setup for venting. Probably like a bathroom exhaust fan, it will force air to exit the pipe and water heater area than simply letting heat rise and carry the gases away. Cheers.
is it necessary to drain the tank a little?
Releasing the tank pressure is more important
What’s the part number for this?
Best video... can I use brass nipples instead of those galvanized insolated ones and go directly to the flex supply lines instead is using unions
It would be so much easier if they would just separate the anode rod from the supply. Especially if you are just inspecting, the cost is less for the customer and the job is easier for the service person. I avoid these tanks for that reason, there are equal or better tanks with a separate rod.
Does all bradford have aluminum anode rod?
Could also be magnesium. Look at the model number on your water heater to see which one you need.
mine has magnesium. Magnesium is also recommended if you have soft water.
Unsure how I feel about pipe dope inside my water heater, will water come into contact with the lower portion where you applied teflon tape and pipe dope?
Is that on the hot or cold side?
hot
Power turned off?
No draining?
He left this stuff out. Yes, you should turn the power off (on electric), or turn the gas to pilot or vacation, then turn off the cold water inlet, open a tub faucet, and drain a couple gallons from the tank. Perhaps even wait an hour or two so the tank is cooler.
@@watteau6646 Thanks
Just a common sense point out before you get someone killed or burned with hot water. The water should be turned off and the boiler off or set to a very low temp so it doesn't initiate. Also pressure from any hot water faucet should be opened to relieve pressure..
Yes, and a couple gallons drained from the top as well.
Can i add an electric anode to this?
Powered anode
I tried to change out my B-W anode rod yesterday. When I got the hot water outlet pipe disconnected, the only thing above the top of the water heater itself was the threads--no grip surfaces were exposed. There's no outlet nipple. How do I get the anode rod out?
Sounds like it broke off. Replace the hot water heater entirely. Especially if it’s 10+ years old. They rarely last much past 15
@@Vl7248 No! It did not break off. Ive seen two of these, cause I've got one. Only the the threads are above the top of the metal cabinet. can you remove the top cap on the metal cabinet after removing the 5 short screws that holds it to the main top part of the outside cabinet? Im having trouble doing that.
@@davidshreve8368
BW doesn't give you much nipple to grab. Some people suggest dropping a 5/8” bolt into the nipple. You have to grab the threads with the pipe wrench. It sucks that you have to destroy the nipple to get it out.
I have the same problem! cant remove the rod itself, impossible to grip onto a round pipe and twist!! never buying BW again...
were you ever able to remove it btw??
Used to be plumbers didn't use dielectric couplers because of ignorance of how electrolysis works after the learned they knew most people don't know they need replacement at regular intervals most won't tell as they know that soon after they are used up your tank develops a pinhole and starts to leak a hole that gradually increases meaning you need a new tank sometimes in less than 5 years and that is covered under warranty they must be hurting bad now that pex is the new normal tanks properly installed with dielectric couplers will regularly last 30 years or more before sucoming to the other killer of gas hot water tanks sentiment on the bottom of the tank another unit causing tank replacement is the dip tube wearing out and when you ask a plumber why you only get 5 gallon of hot water they tell you it needs to be replaced an expensive cost when a 100 dollars max replacement of dip tube will fix the problem you're the first utube video I've seen on fixing the problem of tank corrosion so maybe there are still some good plumbers out there although one thing I never did was leave a tank hooked up without dielectric couplers installed
All Bradford Whites have dielectric couplings now.
Douglas - OMG this sounds like you really know what you are talking about but I can barely follow most of it because it's one loooooooooooooooooooooooong sentence with not one period!
A lot of western states have basement floors that can Rise/Fall by 2-3" so DON"T have solid copper pipes !
TFE tape is not recommended. Because it’s non-conductive, if you apply too much and the thread won’t crash it then the anode rod and the tank body won’t contact. The anode rod doesn’t work. So cream style sealer is better.
Can I was any name brand anode rod?
Use
I was going to do that, but because there could be issues with the fittings/threads, etc. I bit the bullet and ordered the correct part number from supplyhouse.
Crappy Action Mechanical in Rochester Minnesota skimpped out and didn't put any unions in when installing, ah.....es.
Good video. Sure seems a poor design to have an anode rod which requires plumbing disassembly. My existing water heater has dedicated threaded outlets for anodes. No removal of pipes required. Much easier.
This is the worst design and a real pain in the A$$ to deal with.
Has anyone ever installed a plug in anode rod on a Bradford White (power pack to AC outlet)? It looks like a long term solution, but at $180.00 I want to ask first! Thanks!
Just hope you have 4 feet of space over your water heater to pull the rod. I'm sure the new rod is 150 bucks from the manufacturer .
You can lean the heater if you drain it down.
I bought this water heater ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Unfortunately for me, my hot water copper pipe does not have a free spinning union junction to the outlet pipe. It has a hard soldered copper connection. I would have to call a plumber to disconnect the pipe 😒 I guess this is done to discourage DIY maintenance and to shorten the life span of the tank generating more revenue for the plumbers.
Just cut the pipe 12” or so above connection to water heater and buy a shark bite connector to put it back together. The plumbing fittings now days are meant for DIYers.
It's done by a plumber who didn't want to spend $5 for a union. But don't worry, you'd never wrench that anode rod out of a Bradford White after five years anyway.
Same here. I will look for a different brand once this one is done for. I understand wanting to keep sales up, but these manufacturers need to considered DIYers. I have mouths to feed, cannot keep hiring "professionals" to do simple household maintenance.
i have a gas bw hw heater
OK overall but you wrapped the teflon tape onto the anode rod threading BACKWARDS.
.Also, you didn't sho0w shutting off the water or draining the tank as part of this procedure.
tape and liquid??? why both?? that is silly
Bro missed like 10 other steps 😂
I’ve been plumbing for over a decade I never seen anyone put dope on the threads then tape. Usually tape then dope. Interesting I guess haha
1 Corinthians 15:1-4
King James Version
15 Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand;
2 By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain.
3 For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures;
4 And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures:
I would never buy this company's product because it is too much work to change an anode on it.
I don't blame you but they are the BEST HOT WATER HEATERS in the market... GIVE N TAKE...
Horrible system, and the anodes are almost double the price too.