➡ Other Water Heater Videos You May Find Interesting: When Should a Water Heater be Replaced? ua-cam.com/video/xRtd2lSb4lY/v-deo.html Top 10 Water Heater Problems: ua-cam.com/video/wSrk1zB4EWk/v-deo.html How a Gas Water Heater Works: ua-cam.com/video/geOKy06g5e4/v-deo.html How an Electric Water Heater Works: ua-cam.com/video/H3mK15ILAMs/v-deo.html How to Replace Pressure Relief Valve: ua-cam.com/video/ca7cg_Vp-rY/v-deo.html How to Replace Anode Rod: ua-cam.com/video/qLzoikQ7gWg/v-deo.html How to do Water Draw Test: ua-cam.com/video/m57k8AJlhMc/v-deo.html How to Reset Flammable Vapor Sensor: ua-cam.com/video/6t1nsqiU20Y/v-deo.html How to Read Water Heater Wiring Diagram: ua-cam.com/video/6t1nsqiU20Y/v-deo.html How to Light Pilot on Gas Water Heater: ua-cam.com/video/kmI8HjMH5vs/v-deo.html Water Heater Leaking: ua-cam.com/video/ambX6ND8dbQ/v-deo.html Running Out of Hot Water Fast: ua-cam.com/video/o-LsUWlWVh0/v-deo.html
, , our city water , although one of the cleanest in NA , has high calcium content . we do need to purge/flush it every year . maybe , could get by with 3 yrs interval. . my heater 28 yrs life span, i've replace the anode rod twice already, b4 she was FORCIBLY EUTHANIZED. .. . . most of the heater in the neigborhood, lasted short life span, under 8 yrs. , we think purging /flushing extend her productive life .
Where have this video been my entire life. Plenty of books I have read have said to drain it but never mentioned what he just mentioned about the 30 year water heaters to not touch them.
If its new flush it once a year , if its old and never flushed , don't touch it! Highly suggest however you change the anode rod !! #1 maintence tip for water heaters!! My opinion! Thanks! great video
I just posted a question about this stating same thing you said and asking what about changing the anode rod and cold water dip tube by draining no more than half of the tank water. Any thoughts?
@@thewaterheaterfactory What about the dip tube? Lot of them disintegrate by half or more length which means your WH is not doing a proper job supplying hot water.
@@ustaarthur yeah you would have to inspect it and then if it needs to be replaced you replace it but I don’t run into a lot of disintegrated dip tubes I have seen them I don’t see them very often probably in Bradford White, if any Water Heater has them they’re very thin walled there
My WH is close to the ceiling so I can replace the anode rod by using a flexible one. As for the dip tube, I need to either take down the water heater or tilt it by at least 30 degrees or so. How can I do that without draining the entire WH? Can I drain 40-70% of it to make it lighter and then tilt it?
This is an EXCELLENT video. We had a gas water heater and now have an electric one and I was wondering about emptying it. Thank you so much. Very clear and helpful.
I had a 40 gal A.O.Smith gas water heater for 20 years. I did not do any maintenance like draining/ flushing or change anod rod. One day, I heard hissing noises and saw water coming out at the bottom, I knew it's time to replace it. when the plumber came to install the new one, he said that none of his clients has ever done any maintenance and their gas water heaters have lasted as long as mine, or even longer in some cases. He also said that in his experience, he sees that city water seems to have less sediments build-up than well water.
It very much depends how soft your water is, and the variations from place to place are huge. For instance, Vancouver, Canada has 17 times less particulates per gallon in their water than Edmonton, Canada. So potentially you can get as much sediment in Edmonton in 1 year as in Vancouver in 17 years. My 15 year old, never flashed, 50 gallon water heater in Edmonton seems to produce like 70% of the hot water than it used to new. Well, maybe more, but my wife cannot fill her bathtub in one go anymore, needs to take 20 min break and fill up.
Gas Water heater is 33 years old. We get mineral deposits on all faucets so we have hard water. Haven’t had soft water for the last 28 years as the unit died. Never flushed. The water heater. Had the pilot light electronics replaced a few years ago. Works great. Always delivers really hot water. Some manufacturer knew how to build this to last. Same with fridge and microwave.
What I do I drain about 3 to 5 gallons every 3 months, sometimes there is a lot of sediment sitting on bottom. But I never drain the entire tank. Great video.
This was really informative and reassured me that I wasn't a terrible person for not flushing mine. I am on city water and gas, hardly any sediment. I also learned the hard way not to open the pressure relief valve unless really necessary because it can be hard to get it to seal properly afterward.
My dad replaced the family house's water heater in 1963; when we sold the house in 2015, the hot water heater was still working fine, never having been drained, and the anode was never replaced. And yes, the area had hard water. The advice not to flush, came from my dad's friend, a plumber by trade.
Thank you so much for your helpful information. I have no idea how to drain my water heater and it’s been doing just fine for like 10 years so I’m just going to leave it alone. I totally appreciate your help with this situation And your honesty and not trying to scare people about the situation.
Thank you very much for this advice. Infact, I did call my water heater company few weeks ago and they told me the same thing, don't touch as they would do it during the service which is three years after the first installation.
It usually depends on whether you have city or well water. Either way, drain your water heater once a year for 2 tears, that will tell you if you need to drain it regularly or not. I leave everything closed but the main w/h supply, that way I power flush AND it stirs up any sediment on the bottom. ALWAYS use a tub spout to purge air and junk from the pipes so as not to clog aerators on faucets. But you did a good job. Keep being helpful.
This is the best video on flushing a water heater on youtube. I just flushed mine yesterday and hadn't seen this, but the process turned out exactly as you described. We have well water with a fair amount of sediment, so I decided that I'll do mine once a year.
I was fascinated by this video. It seems that most of the negative comments are including the fact that the sentiment with ruin the heating rods if you don't drain and flush. He specifically said at the beginning of the video that electric ones with the heating rods would require flushing more so than gas ones because of the build up on the rods. So some of the comments are people just being negative.
Good Advice. After moving into our new 10 year old house I decided to replace the old 40gal electric tank with a new 50Gal electric water heater. (Needed more hot water to fill the Jacuzzi style tub) That was 30 years ago! We live on a well with hard water and high mineral so I also installed a pleated sediment filter on the incoming supply line. Other than replacing the sediment filter once or twice a year I have never drained the water tank or changed the anode rod... I just leave it alone to do its thing. Still going strong.
When you flush your water heater you should pull the aerators from all the sink spouts to clean and also when refilling the tank to prevent particles of rust and sediment from stopping them up. Let the hot water run for about 2 minutes after the air is gone with the aerators removed.
i have well water and even with a filter a found i had collected 2 inches of lime stone sediment after 23 years. i had flushed it about every two years but replacing the plastic valve and using a vacuum cleaner and pushing a bendable hose did the job. Thanks for your video.
I'm so happy to hear you say not to drain...It really depends on where you live...I've been installing them for over 30 years, I wouldn't drain one, and nobody I know ever does... We usually get 12-15 years on ours..
I live in an area with high lime and iron content in the water. It’s best to just expect 10 -15 years out of your water heater. Trying to do flushing really doesn’t extend their lifespan and might just shorten their lifespan when thins go snap.
Not anymore buddy, southern California has bad water with chemicals and minerals that cause many problems with the water heater tank Also because of NAFTA types making America do cheaper water heater
This is the best comprehensive breakdown on UA-cam for ALL of this. I’m trying to change the anode and need to change and clean it due to my well system
I actually just did mine today. I've gone seven years without flushing and I live in an area with pretty hard water (even though I use a softener). It's a relief to know that I wasn't being neglectful by not doing it all this time, but I'm still kinda glad I did it because the water coming out of mine looked much worse than this.
Instead of putting a hose stopper near the drain valve , I screw on another hose ball valve and that is the main valve I use to drain. My existing drain valve is a multi turn which means it likely has rubber seals which are completely shot, that valve flows water fast even when fully closed. No matter what type of valve the water heater comes with, a screw on hose ball valve gives an extra layer of protection from water leaks since two closed valves are always better than one.
I don't know how often I need to drain my gas water heater, but I'm glad I did it at least once. For the first full minute or so, the water coming out of the hose looked like coffee! The next year wasn't nearly so bad.
Thank you. I, too, have seen including our home and growing up. Never touch the water heater and appreciate what you said. We had them for years! Thank you for your honesty. I think it depends on water quality. You are great. I will add, though, as my mom taught me, always change the furnace filters regularly!!
You're absolutely right. 19 year old water heater, no problems till I flushed it. Got the drippy faucet immediately as you predicted, which I "fixed" with a plastic bottle cap. Wish I'd watched this first.
@@emagik12 Less likely with a brass faucet, but with the plastic ones it's almost a given. You can fix it easily by screwing on a plastic pop bottle cap, which is what I did.
Yeah, I tend to agree with that to a degree. Maintaining things is always a good idea, exercising valves regularly helps with those pesky things from getting stuck...and draining and flushing tanks depends on water quality. But mainly what I see is anode issues.
Another great video! With your help I have replaced my mom's regulator, dripping pressure relief valve & added an expansion tank! Her water pressure was running over 90psi. At a safe 60PSI now. Thx.
I learned that you need to strain the water if you have to empty the water down the drain and not outside. I drained an old water heater a few years ago and there was 2-3" of sediment in the bottom. The sediment completely filled the trap in my floor drain. CLR and vinager were taking too long so I sucked it all out with a flexible hose on my shopvac.
Very well done video! I watch quite a few and have been a licensed plumber more than three decades. Your advice is spot on. It could be beneficial to let the air out of a tub valve to avoid any issues with aerators. Thank you for all the great information!
I'm in the SoCal desert where our water does have lots of minerals in our underground aquifer-sourced water, and causes calcium buildup etc. So based on this, I guess we'd be in the minority of folks who should indeed flush our (gas) 40 gallon water heater. It is about 6 years old at this point. I flushed it once 3 years ago.
This video helped me very much, with only a simple few minutes of watching... which valve to turn off & also which way to turn valve off, temporarily, While refrigerator water line was removed & capped! Thank you! I'm saving other videos for more to learn regarding my water heater & other appliances! Your video Saved me an $89.00 local plumber service fee! Bc I called 3 area businesses to no avail for an answer. Idea to look on You tube, just came to me as I walked away from the water heater, after I was wondering, to be sure I'm shutting off the Correct line, even tho I followed Both pipelines first. I'm very pleased with your valuable information on your videos 🤗👍
I agree with you that if proper maintenance hasn’t been done for 5 years or more it’s probably too late. Flushing a new water heater once or twice a year will absolutely keep it from filling with mineral buildup, which will increase the life of the water heater. For me it’s common sense
My wife and I watched the home inspector check the drain valve on our future home's water heater. It broke, and the tank dumped its guts all over the patio. Unfortunate for the seller, he had to fork over the money to replace the water heater. Goes to show that you shouldn't touch things that have been sitting for years like you mentioned. I'm sure that old water heater would have kept going if the inspector didn't touch it, but we were happy to have a brand new water heater for our new home.
My house is 18 years old and both of my water heaters were never replaced. I'm not the original owner as I moved in 7 years ago. I've never drained my water heaters and I seriously doubt the original homeowner ever drained them either. I was thinking about doing that until I watched your video. I'm glad I did as I'm not going to touch them at all. I'll most likely be replacing my water heaters in the next 2-3 years.
It all depends on how hard your municipal water source is. Where I live, it is essentially liquid rock, and I will accrete lots of sludge which I flush out every 6 months. The stuff makes the water heater take longer to heat up, and the heater makes bumping noises when it is full of that junk. After flushing, it operates like new for a while.
Really smart video. I'm in my 60s. I've replaced a lot of water heaters, in my homes, working in construction. One thing that invariably happens when I'm draining an old water heater to replace it: the valve opens but then won't close. So periodically messing with it? I don't do it. My current water heater in my Los Angeles house is about 8- 10 years old. I just tested the water: Cold water (control) 230 ppm, hot water 260 ppm (so not much more sediment), ROS water with a mineralization filter 169 ppm. (My ROS filters need replacing... but not a big deal.) the +30ppm for water from the water heater is a measure of 'stuff' in my hot water heater. Not enough to worry about. (For a watermaker on a boat 200 to 500 ppm is considered good.) I can't remember seeing water this 'dirty' from any water heater I've worked on, sometimes they've been a little cloudy, but this is usually right at the bottom of the tank. (the drain valve in the video is pretty good. A ball valve! I've only seen cheap plastic ones. One use only.) Pressure relief valve tip. If some crooked plumber says you need a safety valve on your water heater or your house could blow up? First, your house won't blow up. The worse thing that I've heard reports of is your tank cracks and leaks. Second, go look at your water heater -- there is a safety valve, the guy is lying. Gas line tip, especially in earthquake zones. Make sure there's plenty of slack in that line. During the 1992 Northridge Quake my in laws' water heater, strapped to the wall, move just a bit but torn open the very short gas line. The garage was full of gas. Under sinks instead of getting some length that's a little too short or just long enough to be a pain, I get them 24" and put a loop in them. They always fit no fussing.
Excellent explanation; in my case we have an State 80 gallon electric water heater and we also have lots of minerals; the first year after I installed it we had to replace the bottom element after thorough flushing; maybe we did a second flush 10 years later. The unit its still working after 24 years. The shocker is the cost of a new heater; inflation???
I've flushed my water heater. Usually I do it every three months. I don't flush completely. I just let a few gallons out at a time. The last time, I messed up by not turning off the water first. A rush of water came out of the hose. Instead of the usual minimal amount of build-up, I got a lot. I use a screen to collect the sediment. I quickly directed the hose down the drain. But, as I say, I was impressed by how much came out.
I have zero knowledge about the heaters but somehow I feel that you're quite right saying"leave it alone." It might not be right for all the cases but I guess good enough for the majority. just by your look I believe you're very frinedly, honest and trustworthy. sometimes experience tells more than theories on paper. I definitely believe in your experience.
I know my water heater needs cleaning. And prob an element. But I’m afraid to attempt. It’s over 20 yrs old and heavy mineral water/hard water. This is the best vid.
This was a great video. Short to the point and my favorite part was all the helpful tips, have the hose same level or lower than the drain to make sure it flows fast, try blowing in the hose first to try and get the flow started, be careful with the pressure release valve, etc. Thank you
I installed my Rheem self-cleaning water heater in 1998. I flush the sediment with full pressure twice a year. It still works perfectly. The secret - never heat the water to over 120° to 125°. The way the glass doesn't expand/contract beyond it's tolerances then crack. Passively draining (emptying the tank) just doesn't power sediment out.
@@johncspine2787 It is a delicate balance - more than 140F risks scalds (modern plumbing codes require antiscald valves that allow the heater to be run hotter than otherwise) and below 135F invites bacteria to the party.
@@flagmichael maybe ideally we bring modern electronics to the show, and either sterilize incoming/outgoing water w UV, or in the middle of the night raise the temp of the water to kill bacteria, although in print the UV idea looks better,..
Recommended temps are 120-140 depending on which gov agency or manufacturer you ask. Some bacteria will still survive to 118 degrees. I make sure the furthest faucet from the water heater is 125 just to be safe. Higher than that is not neccessary for most and wastes energy. Pays to do some reaserch to come up what works for you.
Hello Jay, you are really number one, for past 3 months I was checking all appliances videos to learn how to fix problems, today I saw your videos, you are the best, you are number One, so Thank you so much for your kindly talking and making easy to understand, I really priciest your time
living in the city, I flushed my after 10 years... and the water is clear. His explanation makes sense. flushing is needed if you take in rain water and other ways that make system dirty.
Same here. I drained my electric one at the end of its life and found no buildup inside. I guess it depends on your water supply entity and how they treat the water.
We have been using the same 25 gallon electric water heater for 27 years and I don't know how old it was when we bought the place ..... never done anything with it. Always works fine and delivers plenty of hot water.
Fantastic teaching Jay. You are a top of the line so far of all the videos related that I have seeing. You have a great future, good for you and thank you so very much. So now, I am ready to go to my mother's in-law home to work on her electric water heater 👍👍👍
To save all of that bs, i simply installed a good filter on the supply line from the city. And change the cartridge every 6 months‼️. Works amazing. And no trash/debris in my system anywhere‼️ Cheers‼️
I have a big blue filter on my home, change it regularly, but still end up with brown stuff when I drain. Not nearly as much as I'm sure I would without, but still surprising.....
My plumber stated 'never touch the pressure release valve for any reason'. Doing so, only causes leakage issues, etc.. So hands off in other words! Comment ? The rest of the vid was excellent.
If you are going to flush a tank regularly, you should probably swap out the anode rod every few years. One thing that can cause hot water tanks to fail early is minerals attacking the lining...the anode can become saturated with minerals more frequently from well or hard water, so definitely swap that out if you're flushing the tank.
@@JxH That's a lot of tank flushing. Why 4-5 times per year? I'd change out the anode once every 2-3 years, not necessary to replace it more often unless the mineral content of your water is really bad.
Never replaced an anode rod and water heater lasted from 2004 to 2021, and still going when I sold the house. Flushed it twice. Different house, new water heater, and city water and a water softener; I see no reason to fool with it. BTW, I had no sediment that times I've flushed the other water heater. For me and water heaters, it's a "if it ain't broke, leave it be."
@@Al_Z.Heimerthe anode rod prevents corrosion of the tank. The tank is made of steel, and the anode rodis made of magnesium, which is a less noble metal, and it will corrode first before the steel. Much like steel will corrode before copper. If you don't replace it, then the tank will corrode after a number of years and start leaking. If you replace the anode rod, the tank corrosion will be shortened significantly. An anode rod is about $40, a new tank installed is probably $1000.
Yeah, I live in a very hard water area and my first wh lasted 25 years without ever being drained. My current one is on year 14 and I drained it once around the 2 year mark. At this point I will leave it alone until it dies. Ideally when this one dies a new one will very likely be the last one I need to buy.
Nice informative video. My new heater came with a manual that basically covered this. I always use Teflon tape on my fittings and the drain valve. I also added a water filter on the cold water line. When I open a faucet, I turn on the faucet farthest from the water heater. Just the way I do things, and your mileage may vary.
Great video I did notice I drain my water heater for the first time after 10 years I got a plug to prevent any future leakage on the drain valve. I was amazed my gas bill went down from $15 a month to $5 a month!
I had a well with water that is heavy in minerals. The build up of minerals in the tank eventually cause a rumbling sound while the water heats and boils water causing mineral to stir around. Nothing to worry about. Even though my pipes are many decades old with LOTS of build up in them setting pressure to 35-55 psi provides all the flow I need.
Some people I don't know if I can trust farther than I can spit... With you, I feel like I can trust you whole heartedly. Thanks for your sincere willingness to help which is so obvious in your videos!
I have extremely heavy water yet never flushed or had any issues with my gas heater for 38 years until a plumber advised to buy new heater most likely so he could make more money. After a month with new heater, I had to flush it to get rid of strong smell from its water. I bleached it and replaced the metal anode "tube" for which I had to purchase (and returned) a one-time use special tool to remove/replace anode.
The hot water tank in my first home was there when i moved in and still working 27 years later when I moved out. Never even thought of draining it. The tank in my current home was not new when we moved in and still ( knock on wood) working 19 years later. Never drained it.
My son and I always watch your "youtube videos. I really think you are the best, when it comes of troubleshooting, you explain things well and clear, and are very knowledgeble in your field. I always tell my son to watch your videos. He went to school for HVAC but he can't get job because they always ask for 2 year experience.
I would advise against vacuuming out any of the sludge from the bottom heating element hole. The reason why is that unless you clean up and remove every last spec of debris you’ll end up with it floating up and out of your tank to clog your faucets again and again. Vacuuming disturbs the sludge. This happened to me years ago and I had non-stop clogging of my faucets in my house from the calcite left over in the tank. After a couple of weeks of it I ended up jury rigging a filter I made and putting it in the hot port hole at the top. That stopped the debris coming through into my water lines.
Great informative video. I've lived in my 14-year-old house since new. The contractor recommended draining and flushing the water heater every year! I have successfully ignored that advice year after year, mainly out of laziness. My WH is in an attached storage room on the rear of the house (along w/ the breaker box) so it wouldn't be much of a chore to do. My WH even has a spigot drain valve on it. Town water is good quality and not hard at all. Seems my course of action will be as you recommend. Thanks!
Great video! Thanks! And I agree with you, leave the anode rod alone as most rods will wield themselves to the water heater and you might break it off and have to replace the water heater!
This channel should be book marked and watched by anyone who owns a house. Just be careful,I sometimes find myself binge watching this channel,lots of good stuff here!
Thanks for this info. This company saying I need it drain. I will not allow them to come in. Never drained before and an never had an issue. In thirty years replaced (3) times. Thanks
I think it’s best to maintain your water heater per the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the warranty. Water quality is a big factor for sure and will probably dictate how often you need to flush the tank. The other item to check is the anode rod, they don’t last forever. Thanks for the vid.
What always gets me about the anode rod is there is no way to really take it out at least not where it is in my house. Only way I can see to take it out and replace it is to drain it, lay the entire unit on the ground on it's side then get at it.
as a plumber I would never advise anyone to open their relief valve unless they are plan on replacing it. Opening the hot side of faucets while draining or pumping down a water heater is always safer and much easier
My hot water tank is about 10 years old and is not producing hot water. As we have acidic well water and have never drained/flushed it, I'm thinking that one or both elements have to be replaced. But I'm afraid to use the drain because I think it may clog up and not be able to get closed again. I'm thinking of draining it from the element locations, which I know is going to be a mess and a half, but better than having to buy a whole new entire unit etc. Once I have it mostly drained, is there a way to remove the old drain and replace it with a ball valve type drain, and if so, is that hard to do? Thank you.
@@justinw1765 You can do that and we have done this in the past using a 3/4" Brass Nipple>3/4" IPS Ball Valve>3/4" Male Hose x 3/4" MNPT + 3/4" Hose Cap however I would only recommend this in specific situations, most water heater drain valves today are 1/4 turn ball valves just have a smaller port than the method I described, and unless you absolutely need a larger port, than I would stick with a standard water heater drain, the only time I have upgraded the drain using the method described above was in a commercial setting (a vet hospital) where the water heater - which was electric, produced tons of calcium and sediment build up and needed to be flushed every month along with water filter changes to avoid their veterinarian washing equipment and washing machines from getting clogged. I would say that in your situation, if your going to invest any money into servicing that thing, you are much better off investing that towards a replacement, who knows how much longer that thing will last, if your just going to try and fix it yourself and not pay a plumber to do it than maybe it's a risk your willing to take, in which I would say that you should be very careful, and still be prepared to replace it if going this route because its not uncommon for an old tank to fail like this, sit cold for awhile, then once its repaired, up and running again and you turn up the heat, it develops, exposes/worsens a leak from a compromised inner tank. Not only that, but replacing the elements may not be all your water heater needs, if the old dip tube inside broke off (this is pretty common) than even with new elements you may still find yourself having hot water only for a few minutes then temps dropping to luke warm because your tank will be filling into the top and not down to the bottom and your water heater is basically very inefficient at this point. I don't even want to think about the anode rod in that thing and the corrosion on the tank that may have already been setting in for years. In a nut shell, where I work, we have to provide professional, reliable service that will last for our customers and for an old water heater like this, the only repair option that we're able to provide will include replacing pretty much all of the components which will not only cost a good chunk of change, but will have no guarantee or warranty due to the age of the tank. In almost all cases this does not make sense to do financially.
@@JUICE-wk2tz Thank you very much JUICE for the thorough reply and advice. Yeah, I'm going to try to fix it myself first, but if I do need to get a plumber involved, I'll look into possibly replacing it. I plan on changing out the elements/thermostats and also the anode. I hear you on the possible leak developing. I guess after the switch outs and if it works, I'll just have to keep a sharp/constant eye on it for awhile. Thanks again
The water heater in my old trailer house lasted 40 years and it was never flushed. It was a electric water heater. My house is 15 years old with a gas water heater. No issues so far.
It depends on the design as well as the hardness of your water. Some water heaters of the new design actually actively keep any sediment activated and drains when you use the tank. Draining is easy, there are several videos that show how to do it. It's more important to replace the anode in the tank.
This was all good information and covered even some "what if leaks" after the flush. My friend had a 10 year old electric water heater start leaking from a bad rusted out tank and had to be replaced. I went over to do the replacement. He owned the second floor of the home. I forget for sure what they call that type of home. Maybe a condo? Because he never flushed even a gallon or 3 out the drain valve over the 10 years I could not drain the water from the tank. The sediment had clogged the bottom drain and built up past it. 40 gallons of water weighs 335 pounds or so, there was no way to safely move it from the second floor down the steps. I could not remove the valve or lower heating element because then I would not be able to control 40 gallons of water rushing out. I removed the top pressure relief valve and put a hose down in the tank to "siphon" the water out that way. After "siphoning" most of the water out we were able to move the old tank and install the new one. Problem was it took awhile (about two hours) to "siphon" 40 gallons. I recommend, about every year or so to open the bottom drain valve and drain a few gallons (3 to 5) to keep the drain open of a "new" water heater. It helps removing some sediment and keeps the valve open so when replacement time comes around again, and it will, you can drain from the bottom faster. If your water heater is old Word of Advice TV is correct in telling you not to touch it, the drain is probably already clogged and other leaks may occur.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That sounds like it was one long day but good to hear that you were able to get it done in the end. We appreciate the story and tips!
Totally agree. When I was a newbie homeowner, I was like “I’m going to do all of my home maintenance exactly per the schedule. It will save me time, money and grief in the long run.” Well the first time I flushed my water heater, there was so much sediment at the bottom, I could not get the drain valve to stop leaking. So I replaced a year old water heater. So yeah, if it ain’t broke then don’t fix it!👍
What a shame. Any hardware store generally carries a thread on cap with seal which you could have put on the valve to stop the leak and no had to replace your heater. Put it on and take it off easily as needed. Couple of dollars.
I bought my house in 1971 with a gas water heater that was at least 5 years old at the time. It has a monel tank so perhaps not typical. I have never drained it and it works fine. I have replaced the thermostat and the burner but never drained it.
30+ years plumbing/general contractor. I explain this A LOT to clients before replacing tanks. Hot water heaters purchased before and after April 2015 are completely different. In 97 they manufactured the high efficiencies and mandate in US in 2015. Early models do not need flushing except extreme circumstances and can last almost 40 years. Getting 20 years out of new high efficiency is vary rare and 10 is pretty good. Iron deposits will now eat through the thin wall of your new tank fast. Do not turn off the heat and water. Attach a hose and crack the drain. When it runs clean open it a bit more step by step until wide open. Messing with old valves and delicate new thermostats is a good way to create an expensive repair. Tank drain valves are cheap and easy to replace. Had to replace a thermostat, flame sensor, shut off valve and flush the lines just yesterday cause the new hire did everything like this video on a "new" heater.
LOL, You scare me , as I have a water heater in a Jim Walter home built in 2002. LOL I know, if there is ever a problem with my E-water heater , I will simply replace it. (knock on wood ;). Yea, Any-body spouting off about new/recent gov mandates and thus know how they actually work, is a friend of mine. LOL Regards gueto :)
@@abrahamsims6266 You remove both and a lot more. Calcium scales on the surface of the porcelain liner making the heater slightly less efficient. Iron oxide on the other hand penitraits the porcelain liner. It carries oxygen from the heated H2O to the tank wall. So are you flushing for the pennies saved in energy or to save the $500 tank?
Totally true, if someone has experience like you and I, having a service schedule from the beginning of a new purchase is the only way to go. I never try to bring something back from the dead, but can keep something new running for as long as it can. The quality of the water also has such an influence on long term operation as well.
Nice to know this! My first water heater (gas) went out after 8 years. Had a leak in the bottom. So I got a new one installed and have been draining it annually since 2018. I used a clear hose just to the floor drain in the basement about 2 feet, and I have not seen one bit of dirt or sediment in the three times I've drained/flushed it. I have a water softener, so that helps with the hard water. Well, I thought some sediment might have contributed to the bottom wearing out. I guess not. Anyway NO MORE DRAINING for me!!! Thank you for saving me that hassle from now on!!! :)
You have a water softener, so not necessary the drain water heater because no calcium/sediment buildup. However, if you didn't have a water softener and you have hard water it is best to drain the water heater once a year.
try catching some of the water in a clean bowl, water may appear clear and still have sediment, when I flushed mine I had to "collect samples" of the draining water to tell when the sediment stopped, because it's so fine you don't see it in the flow of water.
YOU ABSOLUTELY should check the pressure relief valve yearly to ensure it works properly. If your thermostat were to go out and the valve is stuck closed, your water would heat until it's boiling, building up so much pressure in the tank that it will explode.
I agree, I do not believe that draining/flushing a hot water heater, the way most people do, does anything to extend the life of HWH. The problem is channeling. What I mean by this is that when you open the valve the water comes out and inside the tank the water will clear a channel through whatever sediment is in the tank. One that channel is created it will pull very little additional sediment out of the tank and all you are doing is draining hot water. So unless you have some type of spray device that you can slide into the drain valve and disturb the sediment in the tank, you really aren't doing much. Even opening the cold water supply valve will only do so much, since you can't move the supply valve it's only going to disturb so much of the bottom of the tank. You just don't get that much improvement. I would love for someone to do a study on HTW that are flushed every year compared to ones that are never flushed and show if there is really any improvement between the two.
I just had my water heater replaced due to a rusted out bottom from years of sediment build up. The tank was leaking on the floor because the bottom had rusted through causing a very small hole which caused the water to leak out. The water itself where I live is "hard" water. No softeners installed which caused severe damage to the bottom of the tank after 15 years. I think it was flushed mabye once or twice in 15 years. Plumber that installed the new tank said it should be flushed once a year to prevent sediment build up.
I bought a used five year old 60 gallon electric water heater and both elements were burned out. While replacing them the lower one was embedded in mineral scale. I had to remove 12 to 14 inches of sediment scale before I could use it again. So it depends on how hard your water is. I drain my tank every few months and replaced the lower valve with a full flow quarter turn one, no leaks.
I've been in my home for 35 years. After a neighbor's hot water tank failed and flooded their basement, I panicked and immediately called a plumber to replacement my 20 year old hot water heater. In those 20 years, I never flushed that original electric hot water heater. I had the plumber replace the tank with the same size and manufacturer (an 80 gallon electric State Select). The replacement tank is now 15 years old and like the first one, it has never been flushed.
I have to say- I LOVE all your videos. They're so well made, informative and clearly explained. Do you think the 20, 30, or 40 year old water heaters you worked on, that were never flushed, and worked well is because appliances were over-engineered and well built decades ago? It seems like nowadays, appliances are built to last through the minimum of their warranty, and use parts built to minimum specs with thin gauge metal? Just wondering what you think about this theory- and if any water heater about 7 years old and newer should be maintained on a regular basis?
I believe you are spot on-I still have my receipt from the one I bought at Lowe's in 97 I thought about flushing it at 10 yrs old but I thought I'd leave well enough alone and its now 26 yrs old and I inspect it to make sure its not rusting out and leaking. I just saw where Biden is going after Water Heaters also so I'm going to buy a new one to put in my shed when/if this one finally bites the bullet. My heater came with a lifetime warranty but I'm pretty sure Lowe's wont honor it after 26 yrs-LOL...
Lifetime replacements are like car battery replacements. The compensation is for the original tank price, not for a replacement tank. By now, the same sized replacement tank costs substantially more than the original.
For anyone that states they never saw much sediment come out after draining, I did not either, until I turn back on the valve for about 5-10 seconds. It kicks everything up and then starts to flow out. Do several times until not much comes out, you'll be amazed. Or you just might have fine water, where I live there is definitely sediment build up.
@@sajidrafique375 after my tank drained completely, I opened back up the valve for a few seconds to kick everything up again, shut it back off and watch what comes out.
I can definitely agree with this. I flushed my then 8 year old water heater and when I went to close the drain valve, I had a lot of trouble getting it to close completely. It took a bit more force then it should have to get it to stop dripping. I have left it alone for about ten years now and I have not had any issues since that last draining.
After I drained mine the first time I replaced the crappy little easy to clog valve with a full flow 3/4" valve, this made doing a proper flush much easier and quicker.
This video caught my eye and saved it until I watched it today. I have a gas hot water heater. I don't drain it because I have a whole house water filter installed and the water flowing into the hot water heater is filtered so there is minimal amount of minerals in my water lines.
➡ Other Water Heater Videos You May Find Interesting:
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, , our city water , although one of the cleanest in NA , has high calcium content . we do need to purge/flush it every year . maybe , could get by with 3 yrs interval. . my heater 28 yrs life span, i've replace the anode rod twice already, b4 she was FORCIBLY EUTHANIZED. .. . . most of the heater in the neigborhood, lasted short life span, under 8 yrs. , we think purging /flushing extend her productive life .
If you change the anode regularly, your water heater will last forever.
Where have this video been my entire life. Plenty of books I have read have said to drain it but never mentioned what he just mentioned about the 30 year water heaters to not touch them.
after your old one breaks and before your wife leaves you
Thank you
If its new flush it once a year , if its old and never flushed , don't touch it! Highly suggest however you change the anode rod !! #1 maintence tip for water heaters!! My opinion! Thanks! great video
I just posted a question about this stating same thing you said and asking what about changing the anode rod and cold water dip tube by draining no more than half of the tank water. Any thoughts?
@@ustaarthur change the anode rod for sure they’re but I’d say that is probably number one number two install an expansion tank
@@thewaterheaterfactory What about the dip tube? Lot of them disintegrate by half or more length which means your WH is not doing a proper job supplying hot water.
@@ustaarthur yeah you would have to inspect it and then if it needs to be replaced you replace it but I don’t run into a lot of disintegrated dip tubes I have seen them I don’t see them very often probably in Bradford White, if any Water Heater has them they’re very thin walled there
My WH is close to the ceiling so I can replace the anode rod by using a flexible one. As for the dip tube, I need to either take down the water heater or tilt it by at least 30 degrees or so. How can I do that without draining the entire WH? Can I drain 40-70% of it to make it lighter and then tilt it?
This is an EXCELLENT video. We had a gas water heater and now have an electric one and I was wondering about emptying it. Thank you so much. Very clear and helpful.
Unbelievably good video, clear and thorough. My water heater is about 30 years old, never flushed by me, 2nd owner.
I had a 40 gal A.O.Smith gas water heater for 20 years. I did not do any maintenance like draining/ flushing or change anod rod. One day, I heard hissing noises and saw water coming out at the bottom, I knew it's time to replace it. when the plumber came to install the new one, he said that none of his clients has ever done any maintenance and their gas water heaters have lasted as long as mine, or even longer in some cases. He also said that in his experience, he sees that city water seems to have less sediments build-up than well water.
It very much depends how soft your water is, and the variations from place to place are huge. For instance, Vancouver, Canada has 17 times less particulates per gallon in their water than Edmonton, Canada. So potentially you can get as much sediment in Edmonton in 1 year as in Vancouver in 17 years. My 15 year old, never flashed, 50 gallon water heater in Edmonton seems to produce like 70% of the hot water than it used to new. Well, maybe more, but my wife cannot fill her bathtub in one go anymore, needs to take 20 min break and fill up.
Gas Water heater is 33 years old. We get mineral deposits on all faucets so we have hard water. Haven’t had soft water for the last 28 years as the unit died. Never flushed. The water heater. Had the pilot light electronics replaced a few years ago. Works great. Always delivers really hot water. Some manufacturer knew how to build this to last. Same with fridge and microwave.
What I do I drain about 3 to 5 gallons every 3 months, sometimes there is a lot of sediment sitting on bottom. But I never drain the entire tank. Great video.
This was really informative and reassured me that I wasn't a terrible person for not flushing mine. I am on city water and gas, hardly any sediment. I also learned the hard way not to open the pressure relief valve unless really necessary because it can be hard to get it to seal properly afterward.
Yes! We're not terrible people for ignoring our water heaters.
Agree completely. Mine is 23 years old and has never been drained for flushed. And we have very hard water here as well.
My dad replaced the family house's water heater in 1963; when we sold the house in 2015, the hot water heater was still working fine, never having been drained, and the anode was never replaced. And yes, the area had hard water. The advice not to flush, came from my dad's friend, a plumber by trade.
I bet that water heater company is totally out of business by now.
@@zone47 No. It's probably a Marathon/Rheem.
Lol so much bad information here😂
Thank you for opening with the most applicable advice right at the get go and not burying 3/4 through the video
Thank you so much for your helpful information. I have no idea how to drain my water heater and it’s been doing just fine for like 10 years so I’m just going to leave it alone. I totally appreciate your help with this situation And your honesty and not trying to scare people about the situation.
Thank you very much for this advice. Infact, I did call my water heater company few weeks ago and they told me the same thing, don't touch as they would do it during the service which is three years after the first installation.
It usually depends on whether you have city or well water. Either way, drain your water heater once a year for 2 tears, that will tell you if you need to drain it regularly or not. I leave everything closed but the main w/h supply, that way I power flush AND it stirs up any sediment on the bottom. ALWAYS use a tub spout to purge air and junk from the pipes so as not to clog aerators on faucets. But you did a good job. Keep being helpful.
Thank you! When my gas water heater was installed, the plumber said not to drain. My 10 year water heater is now 16 years old and no issues.
This is the best video on flushing a water heater on youtube. I just flushed mine yesterday and hadn't seen this, but the process turned out exactly as you described. We have well water with a fair amount of sediment, so I decided that I'll do mine once a year.
Best and most honest explanation ever given. Thank you. 👍🙏🍻
I was fascinated by this video. It seems that most of the negative comments are including the fact that the sentiment with ruin the heating rods if you don't drain and flush. He specifically said at the beginning of the video that electric ones with the heating rods would require flushing more so than gas ones because of the build up on the rods. So some of the comments are people just being negative.
Good Advice. After moving into our new 10 year old house I decided to replace the old 40gal electric tank with a new 50Gal electric water heater. (Needed more hot water to fill the Jacuzzi style tub) That was 30 years ago! We live on a well with hard water and high mineral so I also installed a pleated sediment filter on the incoming supply line. Other than replacing the sediment filter once or twice a year I have never drained the water tank or changed the anode rod... I just leave it alone to do its thing. Still going strong.
When you flush your water heater you should pull the aerators from all the sink spouts to clean and also when refilling the tank to prevent particles of rust and sediment from stopping them up. Let the hot water run for about 2 minutes after the air is gone with the aerators removed.
I though about that while watching the video!!!
💞💕💪
You just don't !
Well and good but then there is the water line to the fridge and most heinous the filter in your washing machine. My advice...don't do it.
Yes, excellent advice. I removed the aerators on some sinks but not all. A much better outcome on those that were removed - thanks!
i have well water and even with a filter a found i had collected 2 inches of lime stone sediment after 23 years. i had flushed it about every two years but replacing the plastic valve and using a vacuum cleaner and pushing a bendable hose did the job.
Thanks for your video.
I'm so happy to hear you say not to drain...It really depends on where you live...I've been installing them for over 30 years, I wouldn't drain one, and nobody I know ever does... We usually get 12-15 years on ours..
I live in an area with high lime and iron content in the water. It’s best to just expect 10 -15 years out of your water heater. Trying to do flushing really doesn’t extend their lifespan and might just shorten their lifespan when thins go snap.
Not after 4-5 years
In arizona expect a third less than average life.
We have well water here. If you dont drain you end up with a rotted out mess in no time.
Not anymore buddy, southern California has bad water with chemicals and minerals that cause many problems with the water heater tank Also because of NAFTA types making America do cheaper water heater
This is the best comprehensive breakdown on UA-cam for ALL of this.
I’m trying to change the anode and need to change and clean it due to my well system
I actually just did mine today. I've gone seven years without flushing and I live in an area with pretty hard water (even though I use a softener). It's a relief to know that I wasn't being neglectful by not doing it all this time, but I'm still kinda glad I did it because the water coming out of mine looked much worse than this.
Instead of putting a hose stopper near the drain valve , I screw on another hose ball valve and that is the main valve I use to drain. My existing drain valve is a multi turn which means it likely has rubber seals which are completely shot, that valve flows water fast even when fully closed. No matter what type of valve the water heater comes with, a screw on hose ball valve gives an extra layer of protection from water leaks since two closed valves are always better than one.
I don't know how often I need to drain my gas water heater, but I'm glad I did it at least once. For the first full minute or so, the water coming out of the hose looked like coffee! The next year wasn't nearly so bad.
Thank you. I, too, have seen including our home and growing up. Never touch the water heater and appreciate what you said. We had them for years! Thank you for your honesty. I think it depends on water quality. You are great. I will add, though, as my mom taught me, always change the furnace filters regularly!!
You're absolutely right. 19 year old water heater, no problems till I flushed it. Got the drippy faucet immediately as you predicted, which I "fixed" with a plastic bottle cap.
Wish I'd watched this first.
Why does the dripping faucet happen same problem with my 22 yr old soon as I flushed it immediately got the dripping faucet
@@emagik12 Less likely with a brass faucet, but with the plastic ones it's almost a given. You can fix it easily by screwing on a plastic pop bottle cap, which is what I did.
Yeah, I tend to agree with that to a degree. Maintaining things is always a good idea, exercising valves regularly helps with those pesky things from getting stuck...and draining and flushing tanks depends on water quality. But mainly what I see is anode issues.
Another great video! With your help I have replaced my mom's regulator, dripping pressure relief valve & added an expansion tank! Her water pressure was running over 90psi. At a safe 60PSI now. Thx.
Awesome! Glad to hear you were able to get all of that done successfully! You're the man!
I learned that you need to strain the water if you have to empty the water down the drain and not outside. I drained an old water heater a few years ago and there was 2-3" of sediment in the bottom. The sediment completely filled the trap in my floor drain. CLR and vinager were taking too long so I sucked it all out with a flexible hose on my shopvac.
Very well done video! I watch quite a few and have been a licensed plumber more than three decades. Your advice is spot on. It could be beneficial to let the air out of a tub valve to avoid any issues with aerators. Thank you for all the great information!
I'm in the SoCal desert where our water does have lots of minerals in our underground aquifer-sourced water, and causes calcium buildup etc. So based on this, I guess we'd be in the minority of folks who should indeed flush our (gas) 40 gallon water heater. It is about 6 years old at this point. I flushed it once 3 years ago.
@@dwtubeyou Good luck if you decide to proceed. Let us know how it goes if you get a an extra minute!!
@@dwtubeyou Hey Dan.. we're neighbors.. how's the flush water from your tank look?
@@steven.h0629 Actually the person never showed up to drain the water heater, and a local pro counseled against it.
This video helped me very much, with only a simple few minutes of watching... which valve to turn off & also which way to turn valve off, temporarily, While refrigerator water line was removed & capped! Thank you! I'm saving other videos for more to learn regarding my water heater & other appliances! Your video Saved me an $89.00 local plumber service fee! Bc I called 3 area businesses to no avail for an answer. Idea to look on You tube, just came to me as I walked away from the water heater, after I was wondering, to be sure I'm shutting off the Correct line, even tho I followed Both pipelines first. I'm very pleased with your valuable information on your videos 🤗👍
I agree with you that if proper maintenance hasn’t been done for 5 years or more it’s probably too late. Flushing a new water heater once or twice a year will absolutely keep it from filling with mineral buildup, which will increase the life of the water heater. For me it’s common sense
One of the best instructional videos I've seen on UA-cam.
My wife and I watched the home inspector check the drain valve on our future home's water heater. It broke, and the tank dumped its guts all over the patio. Unfortunate for the seller, he had to fork over the money to replace the water heater. Goes to show that you shouldn't touch things that have been sitting for years like you mentioned. I'm sure that old water heater would have kept going if the inspector didn't touch it, but we were happy to have a brand new water heater for our new home.
My house is 18 years old and both of my water heaters were never replaced. I'm not the original owner as I moved in 7 years ago. I've never drained my water heaters and I seriously doubt the original homeowner ever drained them either. I was thinking about doing that until I watched your video. I'm glad I did as I'm not going to touch them at all. I'll most likely be replacing my water heaters in the next 2-3 years.
It all depends on how hard your municipal water source is. Where I live, it is essentially liquid rock, and I will accrete lots of sludge which I flush out every 6 months. The stuff makes the water heater take longer to heat up, and the heater makes bumping noises when it is full of that junk. After flushing, it operates like new for a while.
Sounds like getting a filtration system would be better.
And where is this area you live?
@@jeremyb5740 Central IL
@@jeffhurckes190 I guess it's well water then??? Not city?
@@jeremyb5740 city water.
Really smart video. I'm in my 60s. I've replaced a lot of water heaters, in my homes, working in construction. One thing that invariably happens when I'm draining an old water heater to replace it: the valve opens but then won't close. So periodically messing with it? I don't do it. My current water heater in my Los Angeles house is about 8- 10 years old. I just tested the water: Cold water (control) 230 ppm, hot water 260 ppm (so not much more sediment), ROS water with a mineralization filter 169 ppm. (My ROS filters need replacing... but not a big deal.) the +30ppm for water from the water heater is a measure of 'stuff' in my hot water heater. Not enough to worry about. (For a watermaker on a boat 200 to 500 ppm is considered good.)
I can't remember seeing water this 'dirty' from any water heater I've worked on, sometimes they've been a little cloudy, but this is usually right at the bottom of the tank.
(the drain valve in the video is pretty good. A ball valve! I've only seen cheap plastic ones. One use only.)
Pressure relief valve tip. If some crooked plumber says you need a safety valve on your water heater or your house could blow up? First, your house won't blow up. The worse thing that I've heard reports of is your tank cracks and leaks. Second, go look at your water heater -- there is a safety valve, the guy is lying.
Gas line tip, especially in earthquake zones. Make sure there's plenty of slack in that line. During the 1992 Northridge Quake my in laws' water heater, strapped to the wall, move just a bit but torn open the very short gas line. The garage was full of gas. Under sinks instead of getting some length that's a little too short or just long enough to be a pain, I get them 24" and put a loop in them. They always fit no fussing.
Excellent explanation; in my case we have an State 80 gallon electric water heater and we also have lots of minerals; the first year after I installed it we had to replace the bottom element after thorough flushing; maybe we did a second flush 10 years later. The unit its still working after 24 years. The shocker is the cost of a new heater; inflation???
Yep. It is amazing how much new ones cost.
I've flushed my water heater. Usually I do it every three months. I don't flush completely. I just let a few gallons out at a time. The last time, I messed up by not turning off the water first. A rush of water came out of the hose. Instead of the usual minimal amount of build-up, I got a lot. I use a screen to collect the sediment. I quickly directed the hose down the drain. But, as I say, I was impressed by how much came out.
I have zero knowledge about the heaters but somehow I feel that you're quite right saying"leave it alone." It might not be right for all the cases but I guess good enough for the majority. just by your look I believe you're very frinedly, honest and trustworthy. sometimes experience tells more than theories on paper. I definitely believe in your experience.
I know my water heater needs cleaning. And prob an element. But I’m afraid to attempt.
It’s over 20 yrs old and heavy mineral water/hard water. This is the best vid.
This was a great video. Short to the point and my favorite part was all the helpful tips, have the hose same level or lower than the drain to make sure it flows fast, try blowing in the hose first to try and get the flow started, be careful with the pressure release valve, etc. Thank you
I wish i would have seen this video before another's who admitted they didn't record all details🤨...
So Glad for yours, Thank you so much
I installed my Rheem self-cleaning water heater in 1998. I flush the sediment with full pressure twice a year. It still works perfectly. The secret - never heat the water to over 120° to 125°. The way the glass doesn't expand/contract beyond it's tolerances then crack.
Passively draining (emptying the tank) just doesn't power sediment out.
135-140F is recommended to prevent dangerous bacteria..just saying..
@@johncspine2787 Thanks for the note, I hadn't considered that.
@@johncspine2787 It is a delicate balance - more than 140F risks scalds (modern plumbing codes require antiscald valves that allow the heater to be run hotter than otherwise) and below 135F invites bacteria to the party.
@@flagmichael maybe ideally we bring modern electronics to the show, and either sterilize incoming/outgoing water w UV, or in the middle of the night raise the temp of the water to kill bacteria, although in print the UV idea looks better,..
Recommended temps are 120-140 depending on which gov agency or manufacturer you ask. Some bacteria will still survive to 118 degrees. I make sure the furthest faucet from the water heater is 125 just to be safe. Higher than that is not neccessary for most and wastes energy. Pays to do some reaserch to come up what works for you.
Hello Jay, you are really number one, for past 3 months I was checking all appliances videos to learn how to fix problems, today I saw your videos, you are the best, you are number One, so Thank you so much for your kindly talking and making easy to understand, I really priciest your time
i just replaced mine lasted 30 years never flushed once . i totally agree on this .
living in the city, I flushed my after 10 years... and the water is clear. His explanation makes sense. flushing is needed if you take in rain water and other ways that make system dirty.
Same here. I drained my electric one at the end of its life and found no buildup inside. I guess it depends on your water supply entity and how they treat the water.
I have a tankless running on 13 years never drained once
meanwhile my water heater collects kilograms of calcium deposits per year. the previous one was never flushed and was completely useless at 15 years.
We have been using the same 25 gallon electric water heater for 27 years and I don't know how old it was when we bought the place ..... never done anything with it. Always works fine and delivers plenty of hot water.
Fantastic teaching Jay. You are a top of the line so far of all the videos related that I have seeing. You have a great future, good for you and thank you so very much. So now, I am ready to go to my mother's in-law home to work on her electric water heater 👍👍👍
To save all of that bs, i simply installed a good filter on the supply line from the city. And change the cartridge every 6 months‼️. Works amazing. And no trash/debris in my system anywhere‼️
Cheers‼️
I have a big blue filter on my home, change it regularly, but still end up with brown stuff when I drain. Not nearly as much as I'm sure I would without, but still surprising.....
My plumber stated 'never touch the pressure release valve for any reason'. Doing so, only causes leakage issues, etc.. So hands off in other words! Comment ?
The rest of the vid was excellent.
If you are going to flush a tank regularly, you should probably swap out the anode rod every few years. One thing that can cause hot water tanks to fail early is minerals attacking the lining...the anode can become saturated with minerals more frequently from well or hard water, so definitely swap that out if you're flushing the tank.
"...swap [the anode rod] out if you're flushing the tank." So a new anode 4 or 5 times per year? 🙂
@@JxH That's a lot of tank flushing. Why 4-5 times per year? I'd change out the anode once every 2-3 years, not necessary to replace it more often unless the mineral content of your water is really bad.
Never replaced an anode rod and water heater lasted from 2004 to 2021, and still going when I sold the house. Flushed it twice. Different house, new water heater, and city water and a water softener; I see no reason to fool with it. BTW, I had no sediment that times I've flushed the other water heater. For me and water heaters, it's a "if it ain't broke, leave it be."
@@Al_Z.Heimerthe anode rod prevents corrosion of the tank. The tank is made of steel, and the anode rodis made of magnesium, which is a less noble metal, and it will corrode first before the steel. Much like steel will corrode before copper.
If you don't replace it, then the tank will corrode after a number of years and start leaking. If you replace the anode rod, the tank corrosion will be shortened significantly. An anode rod is about $40, a new tank installed is probably $1000.
@@JxH "swap out the anode rod every few years"
Well presented. I had two heaters both of which lasted about 18 years without draining.
Yeah, I live in a very hard water area and my first wh lasted 25 years without ever being drained. My current one is on year 14 and I drained it once around the 2 year mark. At this point I will leave it alone until it dies. Ideally when this one dies a new one will very likely be the last one I need to buy.
Nice informative video. My new heater came with a manual that basically covered this. I always use Teflon tape on my fittings and the drain valve. I also added a water filter on the cold water line. When I open a faucet, I turn on the faucet farthest from the water heater. Just the way I do things, and your mileage may vary.
Great video I did notice I drain my water heater for the first time after 10 years I got a plug to prevent any future leakage on the drain valve. I was amazed my gas bill went down from $15 a month to $5 a month!
I had a well with water that is heavy in minerals.
The build up of minerals in the tank eventually cause a rumbling sound while the water heats and boils water causing mineral to stir around.
Nothing to worry about.
Even though my pipes are many decades old with LOTS of build up in them
setting pressure to 35-55 psi provides all the flow I need.
Great information, I have an electric water for over 15 and never drain it. Still working great and scare if I drain, it might cause more issue.
Some people I don't know if I can trust farther than I can spit... With you, I feel like I can trust you whole heartedly.
Thanks for your sincere willingness to help which is so obvious in your videos!
I have extremely heavy water yet never flushed or had any issues with my gas heater for 38 years until a plumber advised to buy new heater most likely so he could make more money. After a month with new heater, I had to flush it to get rid of strong smell from its water. I bleached it and replaced the metal anode "tube" for which I had to purchase (and returned) a one-time use special tool to remove/replace anode.
The hot water tank in my first home was there when i moved in and still working 27 years later when I moved out. Never even thought of draining it. The tank in my current home was not new when we moved in and still ( knock on wood) working 19 years later. Never drained it.
My son and I always watch your "youtube videos. I really think you are the best, when it comes of troubleshooting, you explain things well and clear, and are very knowledgeble in your field. I always tell my son to watch your videos. He went to school for HVAC but he can't get job because they always ask for 2 year experience.
I would advise against vacuuming out any of the sludge from the bottom heating element hole. The reason why is that unless you clean up and remove every last spec of debris you’ll end up with it floating up and out of your tank to clog your faucets again and again. Vacuuming disturbs the sludge. This happened to me years ago and I had non-stop clogging of my faucets in my house from the calcite left over in the tank. After a couple of weeks of it I ended up jury rigging a filter I made and putting it in the hot port hole at the top. That stopped the debris coming through into my water lines.
thanks for the video. I leave water valve on at first to help get push water out the drain then turn water valve off and open a faucet.
Great informative video. I've lived in my 14-year-old house since new. The contractor recommended draining and flushing the water heater every year! I have successfully ignored that advice year after year, mainly out of laziness. My WH is in an attached storage room on the rear of the house (along w/ the breaker box) so it wouldn't be much of a chore to do. My WH even has a spigot drain valve on it. Town water is good quality and not hard at all. Seems my course of action will be as you recommend. Thanks!
Your spot on read me comment bobcd5
THANK YOU , NICE CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS, LOUD CLEAR AND WELL SPOKEN..
Great video! Thanks! And I agree with you, leave the anode rod alone as most rods will wield themselves to the water heater and you might break it off and have to replace the water heater!
Amen! Going in to replace an anode rod and ending with replacing the water heater equates to one bad day...
Thanks I’m planning on doing this myself and it’s nice to see someone else do it first
Happy to help! 😊
This channel should be book marked and watched by anyone who owns a house.
Just be careful,I sometimes find myself binge watching this channel,lots of good stuff here!
Thanks for this info. This company saying I need it drain. I will not allow them to come in.
Never drained before and an never had an issue.
In thirty years replaced (3) times.
Thanks
I think it’s best to maintain your water heater per the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the warranty. Water quality is a big factor for sure and will probably dictate how often you need to flush the tank. The other item to check is the anode rod, they don’t last forever. Thanks for the vid.
That is indeed the recommended approach. Thank you for pointing that out Tony!
Also worth noting to take off the screen catches at the faucet so that you don't get sediment buildup in there when you reintroduce water to the tank
The who 2 perform the maintenance depends on their acumen, which is not a common attribute that is not many (or most) have!
Why don't they put a descaling solution in them and run it on a pump for an hour like they recommend for tankless?
What always gets me about the anode rod is there is no way to really take it out at least not where it is in my house. Only way I can see to take it out and replace it is to drain it, lay the entire unit on the ground on it's side then get at it.
You have given proper details of flushing cycles.....other videos do not provide that, which is crucial. Thanks
as a plumber I would never advise anyone to open their relief valve unless they are plan on replacing it. Opening the hot side of faucets while draining or pumping down a water heater is always safer and much easier
My hot water tank is about 10 years old and is not producing hot water. As we have acidic well water and have never drained/flushed it, I'm thinking that one or both elements have to be replaced. But I'm afraid to use the drain because I think it may clog up and not be able to get closed again. I'm thinking of draining it from the element locations, which I know is going to be a mess and a half, but better than having to buy a whole new entire unit etc.
Once I have it mostly drained, is there a way to remove the old drain and replace it with a ball valve type drain, and if so, is that hard to do?
Thank you.
@@justinw1765 You can do that and we have done this in the past using a 3/4" Brass Nipple>3/4" IPS Ball Valve>3/4" Male Hose x 3/4" MNPT + 3/4" Hose Cap however I would only recommend this in specific situations, most water heater drain valves today are 1/4 turn ball valves just have a smaller port than the method I described, and unless you absolutely need a larger port, than I would stick with a standard water heater drain, the only time I have upgraded the drain using the method described above was in a commercial setting (a vet hospital) where the water heater - which was electric, produced tons of calcium and sediment build up and needed to be flushed every month along with water filter changes to avoid their veterinarian washing equipment and washing machines from getting clogged. I would say that in your situation, if your going to invest any money into servicing that thing, you are much better off investing that towards a replacement, who knows how much longer that thing will last, if your just going to try and fix it yourself and not pay a plumber to do it than maybe it's a risk your willing to take, in which I would say that you should be very careful, and still be prepared to replace it if going this route because its not uncommon for an old tank to fail like this, sit cold for awhile, then once its repaired, up and running again and you turn up the heat, it develops, exposes/worsens a leak from a compromised inner tank. Not only that, but replacing the elements may not be all your water heater needs, if the old dip tube inside broke off (this is pretty common) than even with new elements you may still find yourself having hot water only for a few minutes then temps dropping to luke warm because your tank will be filling into the top and not down to the bottom and your water heater is basically very inefficient at this point. I don't even want to think about the anode rod in that thing and the corrosion on the tank that may have already been setting in for years. In a nut shell, where I work, we have to provide professional, reliable service that will last for our customers and for an old water heater like this, the only repair option that we're able to provide will include replacing pretty much all of the components which will not only cost a good chunk of change, but will have no guarantee or warranty due to the age of the tank. In almost all cases this does not make sense to do financially.
@@JUICE-wk2tz Thank you very much JUICE for the thorough reply and advice. Yeah, I'm going to try to fix it myself first, but if I do need to get a plumber involved, I'll look into possibly replacing it. I plan on changing out the elements/thermostats and also the anode. I hear you on the possible leak developing. I guess after the switch outs and if it works, I'll just have to keep a sharp/constant eye on it for awhile.
Thanks again
The water heater in my old trailer house lasted 40 years and it was never flushed. It was a electric water heater. My house is 15 years old with a gas water heater. No issues so far.
It depends on the design as well as the hardness of your water. Some water heaters of the new design actually actively keep any sediment activated and drains when you use the tank. Draining is easy, there are several videos that show how to do it. It's more important to replace the anode in the tank.
If water is hard, anode is useless. Hard water protects the tank from corrosion
Intelligent answer.
Flushed mine, 12 year old unit. Bottom was filled with flakes and the Anode was literally gone. Glad I did it
I install water heaters in Denver, typical water heater life is only 12-14 here. Water quality issues. Your channel is EXCELLENT.
This was all good information and covered even some "what if leaks" after the flush. My friend had a 10 year old electric water heater start leaking from a bad rusted out tank and had to be replaced. I went over to do the replacement. He owned the second floor of the home. I forget for sure what they call that type of home. Maybe a condo? Because he never flushed even a gallon or 3 out the drain valve over the 10 years I could not drain the water from the tank. The sediment had clogged the bottom drain and built up past it. 40 gallons of water weighs 335 pounds or so, there was no way to safely move it from the second floor down the steps. I could not remove the valve or lower heating element because then I would not be able to control 40 gallons of water rushing out. I removed the top pressure relief valve and put a hose down in the tank to "siphon" the water out that way. After "siphoning" most of the water out we were able to move the old tank and install the new one. Problem was it took awhile (about two hours) to "siphon" 40 gallons. I recommend, about every year or so to open the bottom drain valve and drain a few gallons (3 to 5) to keep the drain open of a "new" water heater. It helps removing some sediment and keeps the valve open so when replacement time comes around again, and it will, you can drain from the bottom faster. If your water heater is old Word of Advice TV is correct in telling you not to touch it, the drain is probably already clogged and other leaks may occur.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That sounds like it was one long day but good to hear that you were able to get it done in the end. We appreciate the story and tips!
Your a pro and your right about the valve ! Try to never open the valve !
Really useful video thanks so much for posting.
WOW ! You are a very good instructor. You are very detailed and very well explained. Thank you 🙏
Totally agree. When I was a newbie homeowner, I was like “I’m going to do all of my home maintenance exactly per the schedule. It will save me time, money and grief in the long run.” Well the first time I flushed my water heater, there was so much sediment at the bottom, I could not get the drain valve to stop leaking. So I replaced a year old water heater.
So yeah, if it ain’t broke then don’t fix it!👍
I hope your drinking water is filtered! That much build up in only a year is...pretty scary.
@@oscarbanana6159 no worries, I moved from that house 20 years ago, lol.
What a shame. Any hardware store generally carries a thread on cap with seal which you could have put on the valve to stop the leak and no had to replace your heater. Put it on and take it off easily as needed. Couple of dollars.
@@robertmerrill621 it was a learning experience for sure. And there was so much sediment in there it is unexplainable.
@@oscarbanana6159 Do you drink hot water?
Great video!!! Was just about to drain my water heater that wasn’t drained for 10+ years
My hot water heater is 25 years old. Never touched it. Still works. It is natural gas.
I bought my house in 1971 with a gas water heater that was at least 5 years old at the time. It has a monel tank so perhaps not typical. I have never drained it and it works fine. I have replaced the thermostat and the burner but never drained it.
30+ years plumbing/general contractor. I explain this A LOT to clients before replacing tanks. Hot water heaters purchased before and after April 2015 are completely different. In 97 they manufactured the high efficiencies and mandate in US in 2015. Early models do not need flushing except extreme circumstances and can last almost 40 years. Getting 20 years out of new high efficiency is vary rare and 10 is pretty good. Iron deposits will now eat through the thin wall of your new tank fast. Do not turn off the heat and water. Attach a hose and crack the drain. When it runs clean open it a bit more step by step until wide open. Messing with old valves and delicate new thermostats is a good way to create an expensive repair. Tank drain valves are cheap and easy to replace. Had to replace a thermostat, flame sensor, shut off valve and flush the lines just yesterday cause the new hire did everything like this video on a "new" heater.
LOL, You scare me , as I have a water heater in a Jim Walter home built in 2002. LOL
I know, if there is ever a problem with my E-water heater , I will simply replace it. (knock on wood ;).
Yea, Any-body spouting off about new/recent gov mandates and thus know how they actually work, is a friend of mine. LOL
Regards gueto :)
No such thing as a "hot water heater" and flushing a water heater is to remove calcium, not iron.
@@abrahamsims6266 LOL, wait 20 more years maybe.Ain't nobody typing books here
@@abrahamsims6266 You remove both and a lot more. Calcium scales on the surface of the porcelain liner making the heater slightly less efficient. Iron oxide on the other hand penitraits the porcelain liner. It carries oxygen from the heated H2O to the tank wall. So are you flushing for the pennies saved in energy or to save the $500 tank?
Totally true, if someone has experience like you and I, having a service schedule from the beginning of a new purchase is the only way to go. I never try to bring something back from the dead, but can keep something new running for as long as it can. The quality of the water also has such an influence on long term operation as well.
Instructions were so simple thanks . Just don't
forget to turn off the brake switch.
Nice to know this! My first water heater (gas) went out after 8 years. Had a leak in the bottom. So I got a new one installed and have been draining it annually since 2018. I used a clear hose just to the floor drain in the basement about 2 feet, and I have not seen one bit of dirt or sediment in the three times I've drained/flushed it. I have a water softener, so that helps with the hard water. Well, I thought some sediment might have contributed to the bottom wearing out. I guess not. Anyway NO MORE DRAINING for me!!! Thank you for saving me that hassle from now on!!! :)
You have a water softener, so not necessary the drain water heater because no calcium/sediment buildup. However, if you didn't have a water softener and you have hard water it is best to drain the water heater once a year.
try catching some of the water in a clean bowl, water may appear clear and still have sediment, when I flushed mine I had to "collect samples" of the draining water to tell when the sediment stopped, because it's so fine you don't see it in the flow of water.
YOU ABSOLUTELY should check the pressure relief valve yearly to ensure it works properly. If your thermostat were to go out and the valve is stuck closed, your water would heat until it's boiling, building up so much pressure in the tank that it will explode.
I agree, I do not believe that draining/flushing a hot water heater, the way most people do, does anything to extend the life of HWH. The problem is channeling. What I mean by this is that when you open the valve the water comes out and inside the tank the water will clear a channel through whatever sediment is in the tank. One that channel is created it will pull very little additional sediment out of the tank and all you are doing is draining hot water. So unless you have some type of spray device that you can slide into the drain valve and disturb the sediment in the tank, you really aren't doing much. Even opening the cold water supply valve will only do so much, since you can't move the supply valve it's only going to disturb so much of the bottom of the tank. You just don't get that much improvement. I would love for someone to do a study on HTW that are flushed every year compared to ones that are never flushed and show if there is really any improvement between the two.
I have 45 year, 1979 electric stoned lined one and never flushed, still works good but want to convert to tankless.
I just had my water heater replaced due to a rusted out bottom from years of sediment build up. The tank was leaking on the floor because the bottom had rusted through causing a very small hole which caused the water to leak out. The water itself where I live is "hard" water. No softeners installed which caused severe damage to the bottom of the tank after 15 years. I think it was flushed mabye once or twice in 15 years. Plumber that installed the new tank said it should be flushed once a year to prevent sediment build up.
mine rusted too,
That’s not why they rust out. It was sitting on the floor or got wet. 🙄
I bought a used five year old 60 gallon electric water heater and both elements were burned out. While replacing them the lower one was embedded in mineral scale. I had to remove 12 to 14 inches of sediment scale before I could use it again. So it depends on how hard your water is. I drain my tank every few months and replaced the lower valve with a full flow quarter turn one, no leaks.
I've been in my home for 35 years. After a neighbor's hot water tank failed and flooded their basement, I panicked and immediately called a plumber to replacement my 20 year old hot water heater. In those 20 years, I never flushed that original electric hot water heater. I had the plumber replace the tank with the same size and manufacturer (an 80 gallon electric State Select). The replacement tank is now 15 years old and like the first one, it has never been flushed.
That is so rare…the tanks fail because something was dripping on the outside of the tank. 🙄
Good stuff!!! The suggestion not to mess with the draining and flushing 85% of the time was very interesting!!!
I have to say- I LOVE all your videos. They're so well made, informative and clearly explained.
Do you think the 20, 30, or 40 year old water heaters you worked on, that were never flushed, and worked well is because appliances were over-engineered and well built decades ago? It seems like nowadays, appliances are built to last through the minimum of their warranty, and use parts built to minimum specs with thin gauge metal?
Just wondering what you think about this theory- and if any water heater about 7 years old and newer should be maintained on a regular basis?
I believe you are spot on-I still have my receipt from the one I bought at Lowe's in 97 I thought about flushing it at 10 yrs old but I thought I'd leave well enough alone and its now 26 yrs old and I inspect it to make sure its not rusting out and leaking. I just saw where Biden is going after Water Heaters also so I'm going to buy a new one to put in my shed when/if this one finally bites the bullet. My heater came with a lifetime warranty but I'm pretty sure Lowe's wont honor it after 26 yrs-LOL...
Made in the REAL USA,, before we sold out to the commies (DemonCraps)
@@tonyjordan1320
Lifetime replacements are like car battery replacements. The compensation is for the original tank price, not for a replacement tank. By now, the same sized replacement tank costs substantially more than the original.
I believe tanks today will also last 20 years or longer when the water quality is good and there isn't a water softener.
Great video! Thanks for explaining it all so well; didn’t know the power source makes such a big difference
Glad it helped! 🙂
For anyone that states they never saw much sediment come out after draining, I did not either, until I turn back on the valve for about 5-10 seconds. It kicks everything up and then starts to flow out. Do several times until not much comes out, you'll be amazed. Or you just might have fine water, where I live there is definitely sediment build up.
what do you mean by , until I turn back on the valve ??
@@sajidrafique375 after my tank drained completely, I opened back up the valve for a few seconds to kick everything up again, shut it back off and watch what comes out.
This is the best video I have seen for the process. Thank you!
I can definitely agree with this. I flushed my then 8 year old water heater and when I went to close the drain valve, I had a lot of trouble getting it to close completely. It took a bit more force then it should have to get it to stop dripping. I have left it alone for about ten years now and I have not had any issues since that last draining.
Just put a cap on it 🤣
After I drained mine the first time I replaced the crappy little easy to clog valve with a full flow 3/4" valve, this made doing a proper flush much easier and quicker.
This video caught my eye and saved it until I watched it today. I have a gas hot water heater. I don't drain it because I have a whole house water filter installed and the water flowing into the hot water heater is filtered so there is minimal amount of minerals in my water lines.