Thanks for the video, Brian! While Bradford White installations can take a bit longer, it's definitely worth the time-you'll never have to replace it again. Sorry for the trouble with the chimney removal during the wye fitting installation, but good news-we're releasing a new two-part version soon to make installation easier. Don't forget to register your product on our website to take full advantage of our 20-year warranty!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a similar setup (2 Bradford White WH's) in a 6 month old house. I am going to install one of these in each just to get ahead of the issues.
How do you know where to connect that ground lead? I would think the outer case of the water heater would be an unreliable ground, and that connecting the lead (somehow) to one of the pipes would be a much better ground. I'm assuming (of course) that the water tank should be the ground and the "electrified anode rod" (so to speak) is the active electrode. To my way of thinking, I'd expect to install the grounding lead to a water-pipe grounding clamp, which in turn is clamped to a pipe -- either the cold-water inlet, the hot water outlet, or the drain spigot -- but I'd favor the first because there's be fewer temperature excursions to work it loose. Thanks for this video. I didn't even know these kits existed and now I want one!
The tank is grounded and the metal shell connects to the inside through multiple points. The grounding screw that you saw me attach to is literally what the instructions that come with the powered anode rode tell you to do, just detach the sheet metal screw off the body and reattach there. In fact the green light that you see on the power supply at the end only turns on when you’ve completed the circuit.
Nice video. I'm looking at getting one for my water heater when it's time for anode replacement. I'm not sure it's cost effective from a material perspective, as I think this effectively costs more per year than a standard anode rod. I view it more as huge labor savings, as you only have to change it out once for a decade or more, vs multiple times with a conventional anode rod. [I have a Rheem heat pump HWH, and there's an entire top shell that needs me removed and supported, to get access to the anode rod. That I don't want to be doing every 3+ yrs!] Do you also plan on installing this on your second unit? For you installation, I'm glad you stopped the camera when you threaded the adapter. That's not something you didn't want to struggle doing while holding a camera!
I had the same thought, especially on an older water heater. My thought is that if the powered anode rod lasts 20 years, I can use it on the next water heater as well. I am getting one for the second unit as well. I honestly was just going to do it after a few months to just off set the money out of pocket and I know the other anode rod has some life left in it. Yeah, there are some things that should be done using both hands. I did NOT want to cross thread that!!!
I'd like to do this to my Bradford White water heater. How do I tell if the anode is on the hot water line or under the plastic cap with foam underneath? Thanks for the video.
@@sbchannel7006 I can all but guarantee you it’s the hot water outlet on the Bradford white. If you order the one I linked to, it works for both styles.
Best way is to look up your model number and go through the manual. But it's a lot easier to check under the hot water outlet than drill through insulation
Thanks for the video, Brian! While Bradford White installations can take a bit longer, it's definitely worth the time-you'll never have to replace it again. Sorry for the trouble with the chimney removal during the wye fitting installation, but good news-we're releasing a new two-part version soon to make installation easier. Don't forget to register your product on our website to take full advantage of our 20-year warranty!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a similar setup (2 Bradford White WH's) in a 6 month old house. I am going to install one of these in each just to get ahead of the issues.
How do you know where to connect that ground lead? I would think the outer case of the water heater would be an unreliable ground, and that connecting the lead (somehow) to one of the pipes would be a much better ground. I'm assuming (of course) that the water tank should be the ground and the "electrified anode rod" (so to speak) is the active electrode.
To my way of thinking, I'd expect to install the grounding lead to a water-pipe grounding clamp, which in turn is clamped to a pipe -- either the cold-water inlet, the hot water outlet, or the drain spigot -- but I'd favor the first because there's be fewer temperature excursions to work it loose.
Thanks for this video. I didn't even know these kits existed and now I want one!
The tank is grounded and the metal shell connects to the inside through multiple points. The grounding screw that you saw me attach to is literally what the instructions that come with the powered anode rode tell you to do, just detach the sheet metal screw off the body and reattach there. In fact the green light that you see on the power supply at the end only turns on when you’ve completed the circuit.
Nice video. I'm looking at getting one for my water heater when it's time for anode replacement. I'm not sure it's cost effective from a material perspective, as I think this effectively costs more per year than a standard anode rod. I view it more as huge labor savings, as you only have to change it out once for a decade or more, vs multiple times with a conventional anode rod. [I have a Rheem heat pump HWH, and there's an entire top shell that needs me removed and supported, to get access to the anode rod. That I don't want to be doing every 3+ yrs!]
Do you also plan on installing this on your second unit?
For you installation, I'm glad you stopped the camera when you threaded the adapter. That's not something you didn't want to struggle doing while holding a camera!
I had the same thought, especially on an older water heater. My thought is that if the powered anode rod lasts 20 years, I can use it on the next water heater as well.
I am getting one for the second unit as well. I honestly was just going to do it after a few months to just off set the money out of pocket and I know the other anode rod has some life left in it.
Yeah, there are some things that should be done using both hands. I did NOT want to cross thread that!!!
I'd like to do this to my Bradford White water heater. How do I tell if the anode is on the hot water line or under the plastic cap with foam underneath? Thanks for the video.
@@sbchannel7006 I can all but guarantee you it’s the hot water outlet on the Bradford white. If you order the one I linked to, it works for both styles.
@@BryanHansen that is quite a guarantee ! over 90% are under the hot water
Best way is to look up your model number and go through the manual. But it's a lot easier to check under the hot water outlet than drill through insulation