I've been a plumber for the last 24yrs and just flushed a heater today for my Customer. Here in AZ we have an average of 22-24 grains of hardness in the water which in the heater I did was a 50 gallon electric Bradford white. Lower element blown because of complete coverage of scale in only 18 months. The amount of scale in the bottom was about 2 to 3 inches full. With every install we also replace manufacturers drains with full port valves (most manufacturers only care to drain water not scale/sediment). You need to start bi annually flushing heater here unless you have a water softener system on your house to help minimize scale clumping inside the heater. I agree flushing with the water on, the dip tube in the heater helps to stir up the scale at the bottom and get it to flow towards the drain valve. One suggestion I would make to plumbers which we do on all installs is put a ball valve on the hot side of the heater not just the cold, this allows you to fully isolate the heater from the home. In this way you can service the heater without worrying about your customers opening a faucet and losing any vacuum you are relying on during maintenance, it also keeps the cold water available for your customers to use the toilet and washing afterwards. Great video just found your channel keep up the good work.
Also with full isolation of w.h. on instal w/ full port bv on C&H you can turn the cold meter on and the customer can have cold water and you don't have to worry about cross over from any faucets or older shower/tub faucets. Also random thought. If installing a 100 gallon w.h. condensation will put out your piglet light and if your not paying attention/ thinking about this you might think you have a leak. (An experience earlier in my career.) Just a wtf, oh yeah I'm dumb moment.
I just flushed mine last week. I noticed white particulate in my faucets and usually flush it every spring. I did the 3/4 inch conversion which helped immensely. I turn my tank down to vacation the night before and run the dishwasher overnight. I then turn off the cold water supply, unhook the hot water from the top of the tank and let it drain into a 5 gallon bucket, and then drain the tank into the drain in my floor. I then close the drain valve, turn the cold o to full and then off again a few times to agitate the sediment at the bottom, then open the vale and drain the tank. After the water comes out clear I hook the hot water line back up and start filling it up slowly while having a tap run hot to stop the vacuum happening in the tank. Once full I tuen up the heat and I’m good to go for another year!
Followed your instructions and flushed for a little over 10 minutes, everything went perfect! Great video, precise and straight to the point with no unnecessary info to get sidetracked by, Thank you!
We just installed a new hot water heater yesterday, i made sure to get a tank with the brass drain instead of the plastic. It was super easy undoing the old one which lasted 23 years. Weve lived here for 7 and never flushed ours, something you know you should do but never do. Its nice having hot water again after 3 days without.
You can also push some compressed air into the drain valve to free the sediment the bubbles push the sediment out of the way and give you an idea of how much water is still in there. A wet-vac reversed , or air compressor with a spray nozzle. Or you can remove the drain valve and put a 6" PVC nipple that's full port for sure. A garden hose will attach to it as well .Great Video!!
I am so glad I watched your video because I got up early to flush it today and it’s a lot older than 4 years old. I actually didn’t know you were supposed to flush them but after I replace this one I will from that point on. Thanks for the information and I’m a new subscriber now.
I started just flushing the tank once a year instead of draining the entire tank. Thanks for the idea about using a stiff rod to open up the drain if the water does not drain. I'll keep that in mind if I ever run into problems. Great video!
I was taught to drain the water heater out completely. Install 3/4” full port valve in replacement of the hose Bibb which has about 1/4” or less. After draining all the water out of the tank and all the sediment is sitting on the bottom of the tank near the burner. You then turn on the cold inlet to the water heater to flush out the sediment. If you really have hard water the standard hose Bibb flush valve would do a then to flush out your water heater.
This was good content & I agree with (almost) everythng you say. I do drain mine & then I will turn the water on with the valve open to help spray the bottom of the tank for any added sediment that stayed attached to walls of tank. I don't disagree on the expansion & contraction when you completely empty, however, someone in my home empties that hot water on a daily basis with her 20 minute shower :)
Our water heater is the same as shown in the video. I’ve been flushing ours regularly and where ours is located has a floor drain next to it. So I made up a short hose and just let it go into the drain. I also just replaced the anode rod because it’s a 2015 model and never has been changed out. It came out really caked up and a lot of sediment came off and I had to flush the tank out. If you want the water to flow more quickly you can open up the safety relief valve for a vent but you need to wait until the tank water level is below it. After flushing, and refilling and reheating the water I open up a bathtub faucet and let it run. That helps any residual sediment to be removed.
I keep a garden hose (screw-on) end cap on top of the water heater in case I can't completely close the drain valve, for whatever reason. I use either a short leader hose (about 3 feet) into a bucket, or an even shorter cutoff hose into a tray. Tried long garden hose to outside once only to have it packed closed with sediment (yeah, first flush in years). Had a devil of a time trying to flush that hose clear. Also, I pulse the cold water supply on and off to stir up sediment.
I made the mistake of trying to flush a tank that was 5 years old, we ended up having to replace it after it started leaking and we went with a tankless model. Despite the cost of a new water heater, I’m pretty satisfied with the outcome.
@@Katana_00 pretty much, although we have noticed that the hot water wasn’t lasting nearly as long as it used to be, we were already thinking about going tankless anyway, just not as soon.
Very helpful. I just had to replace my water heater and it was packed with sediment, so apparently we have hard water. Hopefully a few minutes of maintenance will help extend the life of the new one.
Quick Tip if you have a floor drain in your basement: For draining water heaters like Roger said, hook up a garden hose. This is the perfect opportunity to get a new hose for outside with no kinks in it and use that old beat up kinked hose from outside. Cut the hose to length so you have as little hose as possible coiled up on your floor running to the floor drain. Then just keep that cut off piece of hose next to your water heater for yearly maintenance.
Our water heater is in a concrete floor basement and there’s a hole in the floor with dirt in it, could this be a drain or only dirt to take the water slowly
I am a blind guy who’s been trying to get into fixing more stuff around the house, and your videos are super descriptive and helpful. The comment of Teflon tape and pipe dope killed me though lol.
Hvac tech here. I replaced the factory drain valve like you described. I do both ways of flushing the tank. I start with letting the city water pressure stir the sediment up while draining then I let it drain down
WARNING: If you have an electric water heater, make sure you TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER BEFORE DRAINING THE WATER!!! I made the mistake of draining the water and the heating elements burnt out and had to be replaced.
Heating element are cheap too, so inspect and replace if needed. I had a leak from a heating element once and water came out the terminals. $20 later, new element and clean water
The probing is a good idea. I use a short washing machine hose since my water heater is beside the drain. once I drain it I put a funnel on the end of the hose and dump in a gallon of white vinegar to disolve hard water build up and let it sit for a few hours before flushing.
Roger, you shouldn’t worry about the cold stress crack. It would be no expansion difference than just running a hot water heater out of water to cold. They are made to expand and contract by design. If not they would be an egg shape. 👍🏼
@@LuxAudio389 Yes, but replacing hot water with cold happens every time you fill a bath tub or take a long shower. If they would be cracking because of that left and right, that would be a major known issue
Excellent tips, especially about not doing if it was 3 to 4 years old. It's also relative to how hard your water is too. $250 a pop for flushing?? That's super cost prohibitive, at least in my area, and a bit much in general. You can literally do nothing to your tank, have it last 15+ years, and still be money ahead. I always ask people if they ever flushed their tanks, or had it done, maybe 1% say yes.
Don’t turn off the gas or go to vacation setting. Simply turn the dial to Pilot. Simple and no need to relight pilot or figure out what temp setting was to turn to. Essentially this is same video everyone has but the one flaw in all is that the drain is not the lowest point. There is a circular area (below drain) around the perimeter of the tank in a gas tank where the sediment gets and it is this sediment that without agitation will never come out of a normal turning open the drain. Yeh if you have a huge buildup this method will get quite a bit out but will not get that other stuff. It’s not insignificant either and very difficult to remove. I made a copper tube with a small 90 at the end with a tiny drill hole this goes in the anode hole at the top and goes all the way down to the bottom. Hook up to hose and this sprays/agitates bottom area mentioned stirring up sediment. Open ball valve and let it drain. Do it once a year. Works great. Thanks for posting
I appreciate your video great info I work as a maitnence for a complex and I have about 25 of these puppies and I can't recall them being flushed, this going to help when I finally get to the point of flushing thank you 😀
I do mine a bit more thoroughly. I drain, disconnect all connections, take it out of the basement and lay it down on the lawn or driveway (on old rug). Then I get garden hose, spray into the open ports and roll it around to get all the sediment to drain out. I removed the T&P and drain valve to facilitate and change out the anode as well.
Great video. Thank you/ Issue is for me, mine is in the basement and I have a finished basement. I would REALLY love a tankless setup and not in the basement anymore. Scares me having this there
you're spot on about avoiding that thermal expansion, I did it once in that old style, and knew that was fraught with issues. You don't say how much water to drain with this method - you empty into bucket, implying you only draw out up to 5 gallons? Is there a limit, or just until you don't see as much or any sediment coming out? Thank you!
I’ve never flushed them and have never had issues. I’ve seen water heaters go 20 years with no flushes. The one thing to keep in mind is the area in which you live. If your water source has high mineral content then it is recommended to flush. Where I live our water is not full of minerals so there is no need to worry about it.
I like to connect my hose and wash my car using the water heater. The water is warm by the time it hits the car . It’s nice during the winter months when the water is super cold .
I installed a new hot water heater myself back in 2020. I flush it every year. I basically shut the water off to the house and drain all the water out of the pipes through the hot water heater. Its in the basement, so its the lowest plumbing fixture in the house.
I do it myself. I leave the city water on as well and run it for awhile. Depending on how bad the sediment coming out is, I’ll make the exit an entrance and back flush
Great video thanks for sharing. My unit is 13 yrs old did a flush 5-5-23. Last flush I did was 5-17-2017. Got some sediment I use the stocking over the hose end method to check for sediments. My question is now I have a slow leak coming from the drain valve any idea what would be the cause of it & how do repair it.
I have a relatively smart home. I have the ball valve that you describe and an electrically controlled valve that automatically runs the drain for 15 minutes as we have very hard water with a lot of iron. The water heater also turns off for 5 hours each night
So, I never routinely flushed my electric water heater because the Kenmore brand said it was unnecessary since it had an articulating cold water pipe that flushed the bottom of the tank every time the water came on, I don't understand why this feature was never adopted for every hot water heater because it worked, I did clear the water heater two times in its life and nothing ever came out not one grain of sediment. I really did like that hot water heater but it was 22 years old and the pipe above it got a crack and out an abundance of caution I thought it was just time to replace it, I inspected the tank later and it was still in perfect shape, power miser 12 40 gallon never had to change an element or any maintenance, it was the best 350 dollars I ever spent.
I’ve installed over 1000 water heaters in my life over half of them before I install them I put a three-quarter inch galvanized nipple with a full port valve in there first
great tips!, biggest hurdle to a good flush is the small port of those plastic valves. On the plastic valves if you keep turning, the entire cartridge comes off. I did this and put a bucket tilted directly under the valve stud and got a great flow, tons of sediment came out. You didn't mention it here because this video is about flushing but flush time is an excellent opportunity to replace/inspect the anode rod. For those not sure about this, I had a 2005 heater in service well into 2020's and just flushed and put a new rod in a 2007 tank, still purring like a kitten. Flushing is even more important on gas heaters! Why are you wearing a beanie in Texas? 🤣
I've determined that I have OCD 😹 ... After flushing the water heater I've noticed quite a bit of sediment, it looks more like sand as opposed to some sort of mineralization. So, I just flush every few days to keep the tank free of sediment. I just drain a couple gallons and use the water in the garden or the bird bath the next day. After all that flushing I now have a leaky drain valve 😳 I put a brass cap on it for now but it'll need to be replaced. As I'll have to drain it completely and refill, I'm hoping there will be no leaks from thermal expansion 🤞
Finally, some common sense on UA-cam. Thank you. And yes a water heater with a plastic drain [big box store cough cough] has been built as cheap as possible. Always look for the brass drain.
I drain mine just like you did. I also check my anode rod - mine is accessible. I think I have changed my anode once - but we have extremely hard water here. I have a software, iron curtain, everything I can do.
I flush my Bradford White every 3 years when I change out the anode rod. There are just a few specks of sediment each time. I’m sure it would be just fine if I never flushed it. The anode rod is pretty corroded after 3 years, though. 3 years for replacement is about right, for me.
If you change out that valve you need to make sure no settlement gets in the threads because if a home owner crosses the threads and then they can't tighten it water tight or get the old valve back then they are screwed. They'll either have to have the threads tapped again or they are buying a new water heater. Until then they have no hot water. IMO a home owner probably shouldn't attempt to crack that tight sea loosel on the original shut off valve. Like the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Great video 👍. I'm in Fl on Well and all water is bad. I've flushed a few times over almost 20 years and just flushed again today. For me to get ALL settlement out, I'd have to pull the element And the drain valve and flush the inside. What did come out and very little but cositant was black settlement. I shut it down after a couple flushes, as u said, the settlement could be the only thing holding it together . 🤞 I didn't listen the world and cause mo= problems.
I turn off the heat wait about an hour or more. Open the blow off valve (allows ne to test it) and drain it. If it ain't coming out I get a wire hanger to break up the sediment. Once it's flowing and I think it's getting low I turn back on the water just so it stirs up more sediment. And I check to see if more junk comes out if it's clean I finish draining and them fill it up and turn it back on. Never thought about the thermal expansion breaking the ceramic lining. I'll do it differently now though thanks.
If you let it cool, it should be OK. I am taking a shower after I switched of gas heating. Imagine you filled the bath tub with hot water. You emptied a heater and water inside is now cold. It does not crack right away due to thermal expansion.
One thing I do slightly different is I turn off the hot water heater before I take a shower. By the time I'm done, I don't have to worry about the water being too hot to cause issues to the grass or driveway where I drain. I also set a Google calendar reminder for once a year that is integrated into my Amazon smart display calendar.
I suppose a little context. When it is time to flush my water heater, that morning I turn off the water heater so the water is not at full temp when I flush it. It is an electric GE Geospring. Attempting to make it last as long as possible, as nobody services those any more.
My dad's house has a water heater he installed when he moved into the house over 30 years ago.. He's not a plumber. The water heater is still working, had never been worked on, has never been flushed.
@@garyjeffersii6735 Yes. And it gets instant hot water. The pipes are still galvanized too. But it's a small house. One bathroom and a kitchen faucet, and a washer. Not too many fixtures. There were times when we had relatives stay with us, and everyone used the shower, and it never had problems keeping up. I may repipe the house soon, but I feel like keeping the water heater since it still works. I'm just curious to see how much longer it can last.
The water eats the inside of the tank once the sacrificial rod is gone (replace about every 3 years) Flushing is necessary at least once a year to get all the rocks out that come from city plus anode rod breaks off down there. Also, anode rod bits can get stuck in horizontal pipes and corrode them from the inside out.
Thanks for this clear flushing instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about our water heater banging?
If the water doesn't flow from the drain port, reverse flushing it using a garden hose might help. It will break up the sediment blocking the flow and allow it to drain.
I was thinking of the same thing. Most garden hoses are male thread on the end but you could attach a washing machine hose to the end to adapt it to female threads
I do something different....I have to open the pressure release valve for the water to drain. I think it is also important to note that the water is hot, so don't drain somewhere that kids or animals will be or near plants. My HOA also doesn't allows draining on the street. I also check my anode annually because my manual suggests doing so.
Great video! I drained my gas water heater recently because the hot water in the bathroom was looking rusty. Draining it and flushing it helped, but not completely. Any suggestions?
I just watched ur gas valve replacement video which requires draining the tank. My water heater is 5 yrs old and never been drained/flushed. Since I have to drain the tank and if it drains well with not much of any debris coming out will it be ok to go ahead and flush it? Thx for these great videos
Thanks...try to do every 6 months...we are in a very hard water (cal) city water so get a lot of build up...any suggestions on best methods to remove prior to entering the house? filter or other method? thanks!
Hi, I watched this video and your other video where you drain the tank into a bucket with holes along with using a t-shirt as a filter. So, my question is: My water heaters (electric ones) are five years old, the same age as my house, so you're suggesting it's not a good idea to flush the tanks in case of cracks causing potential leaks? I'm just a tad confused with the messaging. Because I personally want to do what's best for my system and get the most longevity out of it. Thanks.
Hello, I am planning on turning on my heater for the first time this year. Is there anything I should do before powering it on? We’ve lived in our home since 2020 and I have never flushed it, on top of that I am unsure what year it was installed, I will have to look at that when I get home. Thank you!
I had been flushing my tank every spring but missed the last two years. I have a well and typically there would be calcium pebbles on the grass where the hose drains. The tank is 9 years old, should I not flush it any more or resume flushing this spring?
So I bought a house not too long ago and I am finally getting to this. It is and older tank but not sure if previous owners had done it or not. I really want to do it because I think it would help it out a lot. I notice my hot water does not last as long in the shower anymore. But I am scared that if I do it that the sediment blocked a crack would be unblocked. What are your thoughts?
The ladies are getting ready to be gone for day soon. It would be a good day to try to do some flushing, new drain ball valve, maybe a new anode rod and elements. My tank is probably 18 or 20 years old with almost no maintenence. Tanks are not maintenence friendly, sadly, and very costly to replace now days. Bob in hard water Montana
I have a 17 year old electric AO Smith tank... it's never been serviced before (no flushes, no thing). I was researching on flushing it but then you're saying it's not suggested since it hasn't been done since day 1. Is it still recommended to change out the anode rod but not do the flush? With the age of this tank, I don't expect it to keep it too much longer but I'll keep it as long as it keeps working! Thanks for your videos.
I flush mine every 12 months. it looks like snow everytime, the sediment is all white and just massive ammounts of it. I put whole home water filters on infront of my water softener too. The nasty slimy mud and crap that it collects off my city water hookup (brand new sub division in a new part of the city, Peoria Az) is disgusting. When I lived in Phoenix, I put the same filters on my house there and the first 15 micron filter always caught a bunch of slimy buildup that I have no idea what it was. But saves all my fixtures and showering of that crap.
I used to live in Peoria AZ for 10 years. I can confirm that there was massive amounts of calcium in the water and flushing the water heater resulted in chunks of white coming out of the tank. It would build up on the shower heads quickly also. Now i have a brand new well in county land in between Scottsdale and fountain hills. Same deal here. Tons of calcium buildup on the shower heads and fast. I'm about to flush my tank this summer when its 120 outside so I dont have to pay to heat the water back up 😂😂😂.
The relic thought within nearly 98% within people flushing water heaters, is longer is better, within flushing process. Flushing a tankless water heater that is 5+ years age, for any longer than 45-minutes, can create pin-hole leaks within the existing heat-exchanger. Especially if using in-correct pump, High out-put pressure pumps very large mistake to use, combined within extensive flushing can pretty much place your tankless unit into a wall piece, with no purpose.
Nice video ! I pull the anode rod and hook up my pony pump up and place the tubing in from the top. Then once it is near empty I spin that brass valve off and put 6” 3/4 nipple with a valve ball valve and you get more sediment out. Then put in a new anode rod. Can flush them in record time as long as it’s not chunks of scale or the water heater is loaded up with Aluminum Hydroxide “commonly found on American water heaters” blue goo ! ! ! ! No fun ! ! ! ! ! All blue goo water heaters need new package valves
Roger, I have a water heater that is about a year and a half old. I tried to flush it last year but apparently I did not do it right because all I did was hook up a hose to the drain and open up the drain without shutting off the water. You said that you should flush it within the first few years. Do you flush it every year through its life or only through the first few years? Concerned about opening up the cracks you talked about if I do it every year beyond the first 3-4 years.
If my tank will not drain I unhook the top hot water line and pressurize it with my air compressor. I set it at 60 psi and boy does it drain fast. Pour 2 gallons of vinegar in let it sit over night. Open your drain and open the cold water watch your water until it runs clear . Open up the hot water on your tub run it till all the air is out . Turn everything back on you are good to go.
The best part is you loosen the sediment to flow through out the house, clogging most fixtures, like showers, faucets etc. I have had WH's last 15 or more years, never flushed them.
This is why you should have a shutoff valve on the outlet side of your water heater so there won't be any water going out until you get all the sediment out.
Best done first thing in morning BEFORE any hot or cold water has been run. There will be pressure at the drain valve when first turning off water. Be carefull. Run for 7-10 minutes. Another thing if you run a bath and the water is pee colour or brown you only have 6 months before that tank leaks all over. Fully emptying the tank does nothing because of static electricity and all the junk clings to the side of the tank .
Very good video. .My 40Gallon Bradwhite just install last NOV & works great , the professional water heather installer i bought from said U don't to drain it in first 2 years .. i would like to change the Android pipe too years after will see, bought extended warranty on it gonna be total 10 years. Was kinda cheap $170 dollars, so went for it ...BUT always LABOR killing u comes to that NOT the parts, i always Bought GE & now Rheem & happy with it good water heater..i just hope this bratwhite dont f**k up my experience , because heard alots horrible stories in reviews about this plumber brand after few years working & leaks down the road , will see finger cross
I've been a plumber for the last 24yrs and just flushed a heater today for my Customer. Here in AZ we have an average of 22-24 grains of hardness in the water which in the heater I did was a 50 gallon electric Bradford white. Lower element blown because of complete coverage of scale in only 18 months. The amount of scale in the bottom was about 2 to 3 inches full. With every install we also replace manufacturers drains with full port valves (most manufacturers only care to drain water not scale/sediment). You need to start bi annually flushing heater here unless you have a water softener system on your house to help minimize scale clumping inside the heater. I agree flushing with the water on, the dip tube in the heater helps to stir up the scale at the bottom and get it to flow towards the drain valve. One suggestion I would make to plumbers which we do on all installs is put a ball valve on the hot side of the heater not just the cold, this allows you to fully isolate the heater from the home. In this way you can service the heater without worrying about your customers opening a faucet and losing any vacuum you are relying on during maintenance, it also keeps the cold water available for your customers to use the toilet and washing afterwards. Great video just found your channel keep up the good work.
Also with full isolation of w.h. on instal w/ full port bv on C&H you can turn the cold meter on and the customer can have cold water and you don't have to worry about cross over from any faucets or older shower/tub faucets.
Also random thought.
If installing a 100 gallon w.h. condensation will put out your piglet light and if your not paying attention/ thinking about this you might think you have a leak. (An experience earlier in my career.) Just a wtf, oh yeah I'm dumb moment.
r u in upstate NY Albany area
Great video. We flush our hot water heater annually and use the same procedure you've described. Thanks for the genuine professional advice and no BS.
I just flushed mine last week. I noticed white particulate in my faucets and usually flush it every spring. I did the 3/4 inch conversion which helped immensely. I turn my tank down to vacation the night before and run the dishwasher overnight. I then turn off the cold water supply, unhook the hot water from the top of the tank and let it drain into a 5 gallon bucket, and then drain the tank into the drain in my floor. I then close the drain valve, turn the cold o to full and then off again a few times to agitate the sediment at the bottom, then open the vale and drain the tank. After the water comes out clear I hook the hot water line back up and start filling it up slowly while having a tap run hot to stop the vacuum happening in the tank. Once full I tuen up the heat and I’m good to go for another year!
Followed your instructions and flushed for a little over 10 minutes, everything went perfect! Great video, precise and straight to the point with no unnecessary info to get sidetracked by, Thank you!
Glad it worked for you! Thanks for watching
We just installed a new hot water heater yesterday, i made sure to get a tank with the brass drain instead of the plastic. It was super easy undoing the old one which lasted 23 years. Weve lived here for 7 and never flushed ours, something you know you should do but never do. Its nice having hot water again after 3 days without.
You can also push some compressed air into the drain valve to free the sediment the bubbles push the sediment out of the way and give you an idea of how much water is still in there. A wet-vac reversed , or air compressor with a spray nozzle. Or you can remove the drain valve and put a 6" PVC nipple that's full port for sure. A garden hose will attach to it as well .Great Video!!
I am so glad I watched your video because I got up early to flush it today and it’s a lot older than 4 years old. I actually didn’t know you were supposed to flush them but after I replace this one I will from that point on. Thanks for the information and I’m a new subscriber now.
I started just flushing the tank once a year instead of draining the entire tank. Thanks for the idea about using a stiff rod to open up the drain if the water does not drain. I'll keep that in mind if I ever run into problems. Great video!
I was taught to drain the water heater out completely. Install 3/4” full port valve in replacement of the hose Bibb which has about 1/4” or less. After draining all the water out of the tank and all the sediment is sitting on the bottom of the tank near the burner. You then turn on the cold inlet to the water heater to flush out the sediment. If you really have hard water the standard hose Bibb flush valve would do a then to flush out your water heater.
I just brought a home I had to drain my heater with your instructions I was able to do it. Thanks
This was good content & I agree with (almost) everythng you say. I do drain mine & then I will turn the water on with the valve open to help spray the bottom of the tank for any added sediment that stayed attached to walls of tank. I don't disagree on the expansion & contraction when you completely empty, however, someone in my home empties that hot water on a daily basis with her 20 minute shower :)
Our water heater is the same as shown in the video. I’ve been flushing ours regularly and where ours is located has a floor drain next to it. So I made up a short hose and just let it go into the drain. I also just replaced the anode rod because it’s a 2015 model and never has been changed out. It came out really caked up and a lot of sediment came off and I had to flush the tank out. If you want the water to flow more quickly you can open up the safety relief valve for a vent but you need to wait until the tank water level is below it. After flushing, and refilling and reheating the water I open up a bathtub faucet and let it run. That helps any residual sediment to be removed.
I keep a garden hose (screw-on) end cap on top of the water heater in case I can't completely close the drain valve, for whatever reason.
I use either a short leader hose (about 3 feet) into a bucket, or an even shorter cutoff hose into a tray. Tried long garden hose to outside once only to have it packed closed with sediment (yeah, first flush in years). Had a devil of a time trying to flush that hose clear.
Also, I pulse the cold water supply on and off to stir up sediment.
Excellent video. Thanks for being straight forward and helping us homeowners figure this out and save us hundreds on a plumber.
I made the mistake of trying to flush a tank that was 5 years old, we ended up having to replace it after it started leaking and we went with a tankless model. Despite the cost of a new water heater, I’m pretty satisfied with the outcome.
Did you completely drain the tank when doing so?
@@garyjeffersii6735 no there was too much sediment, even poking at it with a coat hanger wouldn’t unclog it.
So you would have saved money and agony if you sat on your hands.
@@Katana_00 pretty much, although we have noticed that the hot water wasn’t lasting nearly as long as it used to be, we were already thinking about going tankless anyway, just not as soon.
Find it hard to believe a 5 yr old tank started leaking after flushing it. All you did was open the drain and release water/sediment ?
Very helpful. I just had to replace my water heater and it was packed with sediment, so apparently we have hard water. Hopefully a few minutes of maintenance will help extend the life of the new one.
Quick Tip if you have a floor drain in your basement: For draining water heaters like Roger said, hook up a garden hose. This is the perfect opportunity to get a new hose for outside with no kinks in it and use that old beat up kinked hose from outside. Cut the hose to length so you have as little hose as possible coiled up on your floor running to the floor drain. Then just keep that cut off piece of hose next to your water heater for yearly maintenance.
Our water heater is in a concrete floor basement and there’s a hole in the floor with dirt in it, could this be a drain or only dirt to take the water slowly
And if you’re on a slab and there are roots blocking it up you’re going to be in a world of hot water.
I am a blind guy who’s been trying to get into fixing more stuff around the house, and your videos are super descriptive and helpful. The comment of Teflon tape and pipe dope killed me though lol.
Blind and doing home repairs. You got some determination
@@fandango_buttlicks I’ve got to if I do not want to be helpless ya know=
Hvac tech here. I replaced the factory drain valve like you described. I do both ways of flushing the tank. I start with letting the city water pressure stir the sediment up while draining then I let it drain down
WARNING: If you have an electric water heater, make sure you TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER BEFORE DRAINING THE WATER!!! I made the mistake of draining the water and the heating elements burnt out and had to be replaced.
Heating element are cheap too, so inspect and replace if needed. I had a leak from a heating element once and water came out the terminals. $20 later, new element and clean water
Should change them anyway
ha... good point otherwise You will be looking at videos to change your elements
Just power flush it. No need to do anything but toggle the drain valve a bit. Let it fill, drain some more, let it fill etc….
The probing is a good idea. I use a short washing machine hose since my water heater is beside the drain. once I drain it I put a funnel on the end of the hose and dump in a gallon of white vinegar to disolve hard water build up and let it sit for a few hours before flushing.
My GE water heater was installed in 2006 and I have never drained nor flushed it once and it still works fine.
Not the flex you think it is
Roger, you shouldn’t worry about the cold stress crack. It would be no expansion difference than just running a hot water heater out of water to cold. They are made to expand and contract by design. If not they would be an egg shape. 👍🏼
.maybe the glass lining is what he's concerned about failing first.
@@LuxAudio389 Yes, but replacing hot water with cold happens every time you fill a bath tub or take a long shower. If they would be cracking because of that left and right, that would be a major known issue
Excellent tips, especially about not doing if it was 3 to 4 years old. It's also relative to how hard your water is too. $250 a pop for flushing?? That's super cost prohibitive, at least in my area, and a bit much in general. You can literally do nothing to your tank, have it last 15+ years, and still be money ahead. I always ask people if they ever flushed their tanks, or had it done, maybe 1% say yes.
We have a Bradford White and flush it yearly with your same technique... it's still going strong after 10 years.
Don’t turn off the gas or go to vacation setting. Simply turn the dial to Pilot. Simple and no need to relight pilot or figure out what temp setting was to turn to. Essentially this is same video everyone has but the one flaw in all is that the drain is not the lowest point. There is a circular area (below drain) around the perimeter of the tank in a gas tank where the sediment gets and it is this sediment that without agitation will never come out of a normal turning open the drain. Yeh if you have a huge buildup this method will get quite a bit out but will not get that other stuff. It’s not insignificant either and very difficult to remove. I made a copper tube with a small 90 at the end with a tiny drill hole this goes in the anode hole at the top and goes all the way down to the bottom. Hook up to hose and this sprays/agitates bottom area mentioned stirring up sediment. Open ball valve and let it drain. Do it once a year. Works great. Thanks for posting
By
Sprayer hanging from anode port is a great idea.
I appreciate your video great info I work as a maitnence for a complex and I have about 25 of these puppies and I can't recall them being flushed, this going to help when I finally get to the point of flushing thank you 😀
Ashton, You don’t have to finally get to the flushing part..it’s actually not even necessary just for your info
I appreciate the info
Thanks for reminding me to do this, since covid I havnt done it. Time to find a water hose!
All done, just had a little bit of sand. Not much of anything at all but i do live on well water with a water filter before it all. Thanks
I do mine a bit more thoroughly. I drain, disconnect all connections, take it out of the basement and lay it down on the lawn or driveway (on old rug). Then I get garden hose, spray into the open ports and roll it around to get all the sediment to drain out. I removed the T&P and drain valve to facilitate and change out the anode as well.
Electric or gas ? I would not touch gas connections
Great video. Thank you/ Issue is for me, mine is in the basement and I have a finished basement. I would REALLY love a tankless setup and not in the basement anymore. Scares me having this there
you're spot on about avoiding that thermal expansion, I did it once in that old style, and knew that was fraught with issues. You don't say how much water to drain with this method - you empty into bucket, implying you only draw out up to 5 gallons? Is there a limit, or just until you don't see as much or any sediment coming out? Thank you!
I’ve never flushed them and have never had issues. I’ve seen water heaters go 20 years with no flushes. The one thing to keep in mind is the area in which you live. If your water source has high mineral content then it is recommended to flush. Where I live our water is not full of minerals so there is no need to worry about it.
you still have an anode rod that needs replacing
I like to connect my hose and wash my car using the water heater. The water is warm by the time it hits the car . It’s nice during the winter months when the water is super cold .
Very well explained, went further on details more than any other that I’ve seen related to same maintenance.
I installed a new hot water heater myself back in 2020. I flush it every year. I basically shut the water off to the house and drain all the water out of the pipes through the hot water heater. Its in the basement, so its the lowest plumbing fixture in the house.
I do it myself. I leave the city water on as well and run it for awhile. Depending on how bad the sediment coming out is, I’ll make the exit an entrance and back flush
Great video thanks for sharing. My unit is 13 yrs old did a flush 5-5-23. Last flush I did was 5-17-2017. Got some sediment I use the stocking over the hose end method to check for sediments. My question is now I have a slow leak coming from the drain valve any idea what would be the cause of it & how do repair it.
I have a relatively smart home. I have the ball valve that you describe and an electrically controlled valve that automatically runs the drain for 15 minutes as we have very hard water with a lot of iron. The water heater also turns off for 5 hours each night
So, I never routinely flushed my electric water heater because the Kenmore brand said it was unnecessary since it had an articulating cold water pipe that flushed the bottom of the tank every time the water came on, I don't understand why this feature was never adopted for every hot water heater because it worked, I did clear the water heater two times in its life and nothing ever came out not one grain of sediment. I really did like that hot water heater but it was 22 years old and the pipe above it got a crack and out an abundance of caution I thought it was just time to replace it, I inspected the tank later and it was still in perfect shape, power miser 12 40 gallon never had to change an element or any maintenance, it was the best 350 dollars I ever spent.
Thanks for the video Hulkster :)
Loved you guys on American Choppers!
I’ve installed over 1000 water heaters in my life over half of them before I install them I put a three-quarter inch galvanized nipple with a full port valve in there first
great tips!, biggest hurdle to a good flush is the small port of those plastic valves.
On the plastic valves if you keep turning, the entire cartridge comes off. I did this and put a bucket tilted directly under the valve stud and got a great flow, tons of sediment came out.
You didn't mention it here because this video is about flushing but flush time is an excellent opportunity to replace/inspect the anode rod.
For those not sure about this, I had a 2005 heater in service well into 2020's and just flushed and put a new rod in a 2007 tank, still purring like a kitten. Flushing is even more important on gas heaters!
Why are you wearing a beanie in Texas? 🤣
more needed knowledge about the water heater.
I've determined that I have OCD 😹 ... After flushing the water heater I've noticed quite a bit of sediment, it looks more like sand as opposed to some sort of mineralization. So, I just flush every few days to keep the tank free of sediment. I just drain a couple gallons and use the water in the garden or the bird bath the next day. After all that flushing I now have a leaky drain valve 😳 I put a brass cap on it for now but it'll need to be replaced. As I'll have to drain it completely and refill, I'm hoping there will be no leaks from thermal expansion 🤞
Finally, some common sense on UA-cam. Thank you. And yes a water heater with a plastic drain [big box store cough cough] has been built as cheap as possible. Always look for the brass drain.
Going to go do this, this weekend
I drain mine just like you did. I also check my anode rod - mine is accessible. I think I have changed my anode once - but we have extremely hard water here. I have a software, iron curtain, everything I can do.
I learned a new trick. Thanks!
What are your recommendations for inspecting/replacing the anode rod?
I flush my water heater once a year. I also install a full port valve on my water heater(s). They make easy work of flushing the tank.
I flush my Bradford White every 3 years when I change out the anode rod. There are just a few specks of sediment each time. I’m sure it would be just fine if I never flushed it. The anode rod is pretty corroded after 3 years, though. 3 years for replacement is about right, for me.
If you change out that valve you need to make sure no settlement gets in the threads because if a home owner crosses the threads and then they can't tighten it water tight or get the old valve back then they are screwed. They'll either have to have the threads tapped again or they are buying a new water heater. Until then they have no hot water. IMO a home owner probably shouldn't attempt to crack that tight sea loosel on the original shut off valve. Like the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Great video 👍.
I'm in Fl on Well and all water is bad.
I've flushed a few times over almost 20 years and just flushed again today.
For me to get ALL settlement out, I'd have to pull the element And the drain valve and flush the inside.
What did come out and very little but cositant was black settlement.
I shut it down after a couple flushes, as u said, the settlement could be the only thing holding it together .
🤞 I didn't listen the world and cause mo= problems.
I turn off the heat wait about an hour or more. Open the blow off valve (allows ne to test it) and drain it. If it ain't coming out I get a wire hanger to break up the sediment. Once it's flowing and I think it's getting low I turn back on the water just so it stirs up more sediment. And I check to see if more junk comes out if it's clean I finish draining and them fill it up and turn it back on. Never thought about the thermal expansion breaking the ceramic lining. I'll do it differently now though thanks.
If you let it cool, it should be OK. I am taking a shower after I switched of gas heating. Imagine you filled the bath tub with hot water. You emptied a heater and water inside is now cold. It does not crack right away due to thermal expansion.
One thing I do slightly different is I turn off the hot water heater before I take a shower. By the time I'm done, I don't have to worry about the water being too hot to cause issues to the grass or driveway where I drain. I also set a Google calendar reminder for once a year that is integrated into my Amazon smart display calendar.
You turn off your water heater every time before you take a shower? Do you have a gas or electric WH?
I suppose a little context. When it is time to flush my water heater, that morning I turn off the water heater so the water is not at full temp when I flush it. It is an electric GE Geospring. Attempting to make it last as long as possible, as nobody services those any more.
Ohh okay, smart move!
My dad's house has a water heater he installed when he moved into the house over 30 years ago.. He's not a plumber. The water heater is still working, had never been worked on, has never been flushed.
That's impressive. City water?
@@garyjeffersii6735 Yes. And it gets instant hot water. The pipes are still galvanized too. But it's a small house. One bathroom and a kitchen faucet, and a washer. Not too many fixtures. There were times when we had relatives stay with us, and everyone used the shower, and it never had problems keeping up. I may repipe the house soon, but I feel like keeping the water heater since it still works. I'm just curious to see how much longer it can last.
The water eats the inside of the tank once the sacrificial rod is gone (replace about every 3 years) Flushing is necessary at least once a year to get all the rocks out that come from city plus anode rod breaks off down there. Also, anode rod bits can get stuck in horizontal pipes and corrode them from the inside out.
Roger's a legend
Thanks for this clear flushing instruction. Question... We have an American ProLine 40 gallon tank. It's now about 7 years old. The makes a "banging" noise whenever we run hot water for more than a minute or so. There are no problems, just the noise. The banging never occurred in our old water heater (also a 40 gallon) and only started about 3-4 years into use on the current water heater. We don't have an expansion tank and never have. We suspect that an expansion tank may solve the noise problem, but will probably not bother unless the banging is going to make the water heater fail sooner than without adding one. By the way we do have a water softener and the water entering the tank is softened. Thoughts? Should we be concerned and do something about our water heater banging?
My Rheem was installed in 2006...i may need to think about a new one!
Thank you so much mr Wakefield.
You are very welcome
If the water doesn't flow from the drain port, reverse flushing it using a garden hose might help. It will break up the sediment blocking the flow and allow it to drain.
I was thinking of the same thing. Most garden hoses are male thread on the end but you could attach a washing machine hose to the end to adapt it to female threads
My water heater is 23 years old.
I'll leave it be. :P been here for 4 years and no idea if it was ever done before that.
I do something different....I have to open the pressure release valve for the water to drain. I think it is also important to note that the water is hot, so don't drain somewhere that kids or animals will be or near plants. My HOA also doesn't allows draining on the street. I also check my anode annually because my manual suggests doing so.
If your water heater is near your washer, you could run a hose into the washer drain in the wall, it usually drains hot water from the washer anyway.
Thanks for the video...very.helpful indeed👍🏻👍🏻👏👏
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!
I drained my gas water heater recently because the hot water in the bathroom was looking rusty. Draining it and flushing it helped, but not completely.
Any suggestions?
THANKS! BROTHER!! 👍
I just watched ur gas valve replacement video which requires draining the tank. My water heater is 5 yrs old and never been drained/flushed. Since I have to drain the tank and if it drains well with not much of any debris coming out will it be ok to go ahead and flush it? Thx for these great videos
I had no idea this was a thing, I'm eager to try it... ;3
Good luck!
Thanks...try to do every 6 months...we are in a very hard water (cal) city water so get a lot of build up...any suggestions on best methods to remove prior to entering the house? filter or other method? thanks!
I install my Bradford White in august 2019, but I have a whole house water filter, is it safe to drain?
Hi, I watched this video and your other video where you drain the tank into a bucket with holes along with using a t-shirt as a filter. So, my question is: My water heaters (electric ones) are five years old, the same age as my house, so you're suggesting it's not a good idea to flush the tanks in case of cracks causing potential leaks? I'm just a tad confused with the messaging. Because I personally want to do what's best for my system and get the most longevity out of it. Thanks.
Excellent!
Hello, I am planning on turning on my heater for the first time this year. Is there anything I should do before powering it on? We’ve lived in our home since 2020 and I have never flushed it, on top of that I am unsure what year it was installed, I will have to look at that when I get home.
Thank you!
Good tips I tried to flush my own but nothing came out had good water flow it kinda makes a cracking noise but it’s only 2 years old
Did not know you are supposed to flush Hot Witter Heaters. Good to know.
I had been flushing my tank every spring but missed the last two years. I have a well and typically there would be calcium pebbles on the grass where the hose drains. The tank is 9 years old, should I not flush it any more or resume flushing this spring?
So I bought a house not too long ago and I am finally getting to this. It is and older tank but not sure if previous owners had done it or not. I really want to do it because I think it would help it out a lot. I notice my hot water does not last as long in the shower anymore. But I am scared that if I do it that the sediment blocked a crack would be unblocked. What are your thoughts?
Great video.
Thanks! Are you thinking about flushing your water heater?
@@RogerWakefield I just did it last weekend! Fortunately I have the same heater as you had in your video so it was very simple to do.
The ladies are getting ready to be gone for day soon. It would be a good day to try to do some flushing, new drain ball valve, maybe a new anode rod and elements. My tank is probably 18 or 20 years old with almost no maintenence. Tanks are not maintenence friendly, sadly, and very costly to replace now days. Bob in hard water Montana
Thanks for the tip of not doing this on an old unit. I was just about to do it on my 10 year old unit when I found this 😂
I have a 17 year old electric AO Smith tank... it's never been serviced before (no flushes, no thing). I was researching on flushing it but then you're saying it's not suggested since it hasn't been done since day 1. Is it still recommended to change out the anode rod but not do the flush? With the age of this tank, I don't expect it to keep it too much longer but I'll keep it as long as it keeps working! Thanks for your videos.
I flush mine every 12 months. it looks like snow everytime, the sediment is all white and just massive ammounts of it. I put whole home water filters on infront of my water softener too. The nasty slimy mud and crap that it collects off my city water hookup (brand new sub division in a new part of the city, Peoria Az) is disgusting. When I lived in Phoenix, I put the same filters on my house there and the first 15 micron filter always caught a bunch of slimy buildup that I have no idea what it was. But saves all my fixtures and showering of that crap.
I used to live in Peoria AZ for 10 years. I can confirm that there was massive amounts of calcium in the water and flushing the water heater resulted in chunks of white coming out of the tank. It would build up on the shower heads quickly also. Now i have a brand new well in county land in between Scottsdale and fountain hills. Same deal here. Tons of calcium buildup on the shower heads and fast. I'm about to flush my tank this summer when its 120 outside so I dont have to pay to heat the water back up 😂😂😂.
The relic thought within nearly 98% within people flushing water heaters, is longer is better, within flushing process. Flushing a tankless water heater that is 5+ years age, for any longer than 45-minutes, can create pin-hole leaks within the existing heat-exchanger. Especially if using in-correct pump, High out-put pressure pumps very large mistake to use, combined within extensive flushing can pretty much place your tankless unit into a wall piece, with no purpose.
Nice video !
I pull the anode rod and hook up my pony pump up and place the tubing in from the top. Then once it is near empty I spin that brass valve off and put 6” 3/4 nipple with a valve ball valve and you get more sediment out.
Then put in a new anode rod. Can flush them in record time as long as it’s not chunks of scale or the water heater is loaded up with Aluminum Hydroxide “commonly found on American water heaters” blue goo ! ! ! ! No fun ! ! ! ! !
All blue goo water heaters need new package valves
Roger, I have a water heater that is about a year and a half old. I tried to flush it last year but apparently I did not do it right because all I did was hook up a hose to the drain and open up the drain without shutting off the water. You said that you should flush it within the first few years. Do you flush it every year through its life or only through the first few years? Concerned about opening up the cracks you talked about if I do it every year beyond the first 3-4 years.
Hope all is well dude
Never did mine (over 5 years old) and was looking to see how to do it, but you're saying if you haven't done it... don't.
If my tank will not drain I unhook the top hot water line and pressurize it with my air compressor. I set it at 60 psi and boy does it drain fast. Pour 2 gallons of vinegar in let it sit over night. Open your drain and open the cold water watch your water until it runs clear . Open up the hot water on your tub run it till all the air is out . Turn everything back on you are good to go.
Nice video!
Thanks! Did it help you flush your water heater?
It help me flush my water heater tank@@RogerWakefield
What are the better gas water heater brands? What are the cheapest with high failures?
There is no cheap water heaters per se. They're all built to a high standard for safety reasons.
I did try this lol I'm a new home owner is it normal for the water to shot out?😅 but I did it exactly like you mentioned...water was clear.....
Roger would you recommend adding vinegar to the heater then flush it.
pissing inside the tank is cheaper
The best part is you loosen the sediment to flow through out the house, clogging most fixtures, like showers, faucets etc. I have had WH's last 15 or more years, never flushed them.
remove the screens from the facuets and clean them
This is why you should have a shutoff valve on the outlet side of your water heater so there won't be any water going out until you get all the sediment out.
@@marshallferron most are installed without one and you would still have to drain the WH to do it.
Best done first thing in morning BEFORE any hot or cold water has been run. There will be pressure at the drain valve when first turning off water. Be carefull. Run for 7-10 minutes. Another thing if you run a bath and the water is pee colour or brown you only have 6 months before that tank leaks all over. Fully emptying the tank does nothing because of static electricity and all the junk clings to the side of the tank .
Thanks!
You bet! Thank you for the super chat, I do appreciate it
Had mine installed 02/05/2007. The day i had a stroke. Just flushed it and white stuff that looks like calcium but it is soft.
Thanks
Very good video. .My 40Gallon Bradwhite just install last NOV & works great , the professional water heather installer i bought from said U don't to drain it in first 2 years .. i would like to change the Android pipe too years after will see, bought extended warranty on it gonna be total 10 years. Was kinda cheap $170 dollars, so went for it ...BUT always LABOR killing u comes to that NOT the parts, i always Bought GE & now Rheem & happy with it good water heater..i just hope this bratwhite dont f**k up my experience , because heard alots horrible stories in reviews about this plumber brand after few years working & leaks down the road , will see finger cross
If you have a water softener with whole house filter both pre and post do you recommend doing this every year still?