Thanks for the feedback! I do agree that there are so many variables in sound tests that it's pretty difficult to replicate how it sounds in real life for the viewer. Even the thickness of the desk mat, the material of the desk, etc. can all affect the sound. Maybe our setups are really similar! Either way, thanks for the sub. Cheers!
@@33smimuI agree, but if I remember correctly, the Akko CS switches are .22 a switch, while the u4ts go for about .60. Both are still sitting at a nice price, though.
Would you say that the integrated plate makes this board feel stiff? I'm going back and forth between this and the kbdfans d60 lite for my first build. Of course the gasket mounted d60 lite is probably the better option but I don't really like the PC aesthetic and I'm really in to how this board looks. I alos plan on using these switches.
I don't have any experience with the d60, but even the "improperly implemented" gasket mount on the GMMK Pro is noticeably less stiff than the Tokyo60. But it doesn't really bother me, and I think that with some tuning (plate foam and the acrylic diffuser really help), the sound profile is really satisfying. But it does take some more work to tune, and a 7U space bar is even more challenging to get right. I think it may come down to if you value typing feel more or aesthetics/acoustics (I'm not entirely sure about this though, since the D60 could sound great but I just don't know enough about it to make a judgement).
Going from integrated plate to PC gasket mount keyboards, I realized it was preferential and not objectively better at all. Especially at similar price points. I like muted sounds for certain switches and keycaps but I have my drop alt high (w case and pcb foam) with large xda keycaps and LOVE how it makes certain switches a bit more amplified vs putting the same switch and keycaps into my Kbd67lite and portico and being underwhelmed. You really have to try it or take into account that a lot of these sound test videos sound louder than they actually are in person. In terms of looks and case feel, if you had to choose between aluminum integrated plate and plastic case gasket mount, I'd go with aluminum integrated plate. It is heavier and feels and looks more premium. But if you can splurge a bit and go for an aluminum case, gasket mounted keyboard then you really have the best of both worlds, and that's why keyboards like gmmk pro are amazing because they did it for a decent price.
Man, your hands are built different. Using integrated plate with a long stem pole switch. How does that not destroy your fingers? I have a hard time using Holy Pandas on a POM plate with a decent amount of flex in my Sirius60.
Would you use this in an office environment? I'm thinking of modding my keyboard and I was going for the Moyu Blacks but reviews said they were very loud was hoping boba u4t would be alright
I wouldn't, I could see most people being distracted by it. As Kimcheenk mentioned, the U4s are silent and pretty similar. I actually use them at work and they're quieter than others' membrane keyboards.
I mix my own using Super Lube PTFE Grease and PTFE Oil. Mix to your desired consistency (I usually use a little thinner for tactile switches like these).
I think it's pretty subtle, I didn't really think they were scratchy to begin with, but with the lube I don't really notice it (at least while typing). If you hold the switch up to your ear, maybe you can hear some scratch and a little bit of spring noise.
@@bigxie i see, thats a good sign then. waiting on the switch to arrive and so far have been impressed enough that i don't know that i have to spend the time lubing it
It's pretty well made, the finish is good. If you get it, I would definitely recommend the acrylic spacer add on - it makes the underglow show through and it also drastically reduces pinging from the metal bottom.
I actually just lubed the side rails of the bottom housing and donut dipped the bottoms of the springs. Super lazy, but it's the recommended method from Gazzew. For lube, I actually just use a Superlube mix. I actually go over it in my GMMK Pro video I just uploaded, so you can check out that chapter if you're interested in making some pretty decent lube for $8.
They are different. Yellow is linear and boba is tactile. I used yelow for daily and they're buttery smooth, and just yesterday I tried boba 68g. They're more thocky than yellow.
Yeah, I will second Eka. Gat yellows that are properly lubed and filmed are really great budget linears that can perform above their price point, but aren't really comparable to the U4T's in terms of feel or sound.
@@bigxie the cost of gat yellow ks3+film+205 almost the same to stock u4t , i dont mind whether its linesr or tacile though , just want to know which one more smoother (less scratchy) , thockiest , deep and non fatigue sounding
I see, that's a good point. The U4T's will be thockier and deeper, and I think that they're pretty comparable in terms of scratchiness (lubed gat yellows vs. stock bobas). Not too sure what defines something as "non fatigue sounding", but I think that on the same board, the U4Ts will be louder - whether that causes fatigue to you or not is a matter of taste. If you're typing for a long time, the Bobas could be physically more fatiguing though, even the 62g variant.
@@bigxie i never had have experience with heavy switch but right now im using gateron red which is very clacky actually its boring kind of sound..i want it more basier , deep thick sounding i don't mind about loud as long as its not high pitch or piercing sounding which will make me tired just to hear it..i actually enjoyed typing on gat red i just dont like the sound
@@S.O.G.E.K.I.N.G I am mostly using my QK65 and Keychron Q1, but any standard layout will work better than HHKB (mostly it's the left shift and control keys which are used for sprint and crouch in FPS games that the Tokyo60 doesn't do well with)
The tape mod wasn't really well known when I made this build and I haven't gone back and done it, but I do think that it will affect the sound and make it a bit more poppy (not sure if it will be "deeper" per se. Tape mod and maybe some higher profile keycaps (i.e SA or MT3) should result in a really thocky sound - you can hear how this board sounds with MT3 keycaps in my follow up video here: ua-cam.com/video/aiiMklpqUQ4/v-deo.html
Haha, that's the trusty cable that came with my NK65, one of the first custom keyboards I ever purchased. It served me well, but I have upgraded since making this video. Thanks for watching!
With a custom keyboard like this, you can open the switches to lube them before installing onto the PCB. You can also lube the stabilizers before installing them to the PCB as well.
I think it's a fun little keyboard with the HKKB layout, but I don't think it's the best for a beginner or as an intro to custom boards. It's integrated plate which results in a more difficult time tuning it to sound good, as well as resulting in a stiffer typing experience. For a beginner keyboard, I'd recommend the TKC Portico, KBDFans 67 Lite, or even the Cannonkeys Bakeneko as they all offer great value, a softer more comfortable typing experience, and great sound out of the box.
@@JustCreateYou the KBDFans67 Lite (a more "budget" version of their 65% keyboard) is widely regarded as really great sounding and a good implementation of gasket mount. Mine is coming in this week so I will have personal experience soon, but I am expecting great things. Another similar option is the TKC Portico, which I built last month and have been enjoying a lot and would recommend. Both are kind of tough to get though.
I think the Zealio are a little more tactile, but the sound is more muted and a lot less thocky than the U4Ts. My personal preference is for the Bobas, but your mileage may vary.
I so desperately want a decent tactile that doesn't hurt or sound like shit. I tried Zealios and Zilents to no avail-the quality was not up to par (the Xeno fiasco makes sense) and don't get me started on sound. I was going to go for Glorious Pandas, but I'd much prefer supporting a smaller creator, and I'm surprised by how great the Thocky switches sound stock! How's the wobble, do they need filming?
Hi Sarah, yeah they sound great stock and I think it's due to the tight tolerances and material choice. There isn't any housing wobble so I think that films would be pretty much wasted on them. I'm not too sure what you mean by tactiles that hurt? Do you mean like a really sharp tactile event? I feel like the tactility of the U4Ts (without legs lubed) are pretty similar to my Zealios V2 fully lubed (legs and all). I also only have experience with the 68g Bobas, so the 62g may be more suitable if you want something a little easier on the fingers.
nice comparison. From what I heard using headphone on stock there are some spring ping here and there and thats the only thing that bothers me. Probably only need to open it up, bag lubed it and boom its done. Gonna use it on bakeneko when its restock. Thank you for the comparison!
I think they'll sound nice in the bakeneko. I'm currently using H1's in mine and it's pretty clacky and poppy. I think with the U4Ts, it'll be a bit deeper and thockier.
Yeah, the out of box quality on the U4T's are pretty incredible! For the silent U4's, I actually do prefer to thoroughly lube and film them, if you are really trying to build a very silent board. I recently built out a 96% for office work with silent Boba U4's but was lazy and only really lubed and filmed the alphas and mods. I can clearly tell a difference between typing and using the numpad. The difference isn't going to make or break anything, but it really can elevate a "silent" board to thoroughly lube the silent U4's.
Even with my best headphones, I really can barely hear the difference. It's small enough that I wouldn't even bother modifying them especially since I am usually listening to stuff while using my computer so I wouldn't even be able to hear small rattles like that at all.
I think it depends on layout. This is an HKKB layout which some really prefer, but it is not the best for gaming (for example, control is where caps lock usually is). It's also fairly expensive. I know that later in July, the GMMK Pro will be in stock at Glorious, so you may want to look into that one if you are looking for a more standard layout.
I think it depends on your preference. Some players don't like gaming on tactiles, but I think it's fine. I'm not super competitive though and these do take more force to actuate than say, a light linear (40g) switch, but in all likelihood, unless you're an upper echelon pro gamer, it won't make a difference.
I don't think that's a hot swap board, so if you really wanted to get the switches out, you'd need to desolder them. Once they're out you can open them and lube them. But in my opinion, it's not worth the effort.
@@bigxie ok, thanks for letting me know, also I want to try the whole Razer Huntsman TE mods but a lot of people say the Huntsman TE has a space bar problem so idk if I should do it or not, for you was it worth it? Out of curiosity
@@marcelogaribay2967 I'm not familiar with the spacebar problem you're referring to, but I thought the Huntsman TE was very straightforward to mod and it made a big difference. I think it comes down to how comfortable you are with taking apart electronics, that's about it.
@@bigxie yeah I got the Huntsman TE for Christmas and I don’t wanna risk breaking it you know, but it’s so pingy and there is a lot of rattling and I want to lube and mod it but once again I don’t wanna break it so I am kinda hesitating wether I should do it or not. What do you think, should I buy a new keyboard and mod that or mod my Huntsman TE?
@@marcelogaribay2967 modding the Huntsman will void the warranty, so if you're worried about that, I wouldn't do it. If you have the budget for another keyboard, you can try a hot swap board which will make lubing the switches and modding the stabs a lot easier. You can tune it to sound better without much risk of critically damaging it.
Usually sound tests make me very questionable, but I have compared and your sound test makes the exact sound as outside. well done. subscribed.
Thanks for the feedback! I do agree that there are so many variables in sound tests that it's pretty difficult to replicate how it sounds in real life for the viewer. Even the thickness of the desk mat, the material of the desk, etc. can all affect the sound. Maybe our setups are really similar! Either way, thanks for the sub. Cheers!
these switches seem like some of the nicest stock switches, especially tactiles
the budget akko cs switches are sneaking up behind the u4ts :)
@@Kingbob556 I think Ocean Blues and U4T are the best sounding stock in my opinion. Both are VERY cheap options as well.
@@33smimuI agree, but if I remember correctly, the Akko CS switches are .22 a switch, while the u4ts go for about .60. Both are still sitting at a nice price, though.
@@Kingbob556 They're both still very cheap. Some switches can be at least 1.50 MSRP.
@@33smimu yup
Honestly I just kept my bobas stock for now till I grab some 3203. I have my spacebar boba with a Gat ink bottom lubed and it sounds incredible!
I’ve heard they are silent is that true?
Amazing video and amazing sound. Great Job! 👍
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
these switch sounds and feel so snappy its crazy
Great comparison video. U4ts feel as great as they sound
Would you say that the integrated plate makes this board feel stiff? I'm going back and forth between this and the kbdfans d60 lite for my first build. Of course the gasket mounted d60 lite is probably the better option but I don't really like the PC aesthetic and I'm really in to how this board looks. I alos plan on using these switches.
I don't have any experience with the d60, but even the "improperly implemented" gasket mount on the GMMK Pro is noticeably less stiff than the Tokyo60. But it doesn't really bother me, and I think that with some tuning (plate foam and the acrylic diffuser really help), the sound profile is really satisfying. But it does take some more work to tune, and a 7U space bar is even more challenging to get right. I think it may come down to if you value typing feel more or aesthetics/acoustics (I'm not entirely sure about this though, since the D60 could sound great but I just don't know enough about it to make a judgement).
Going from integrated plate to PC gasket mount keyboards, I realized it was preferential and not objectively better at all. Especially at similar price points. I like muted sounds for certain switches and keycaps but I have my drop alt high (w case and pcb foam) with large xda keycaps and LOVE how it makes certain switches a bit more amplified vs putting the same switch and keycaps into my Kbd67lite and portico and being underwhelmed. You really have to try it or take into account that a lot of these sound test videos sound louder than they actually are in person. In terms of looks and case feel, if you had to choose between aluminum integrated plate and plastic case gasket mount, I'd go with aluminum integrated plate. It is heavier and feels and looks more premium. But if you can splurge a bit and go for an aluminum case, gasket mounted keyboard then you really have the best of both worlds, and that's why keyboards like gmmk pro are amazing because they did it for a decent price.
before i used tactiles, i used clicky, and to my surprise, it makes my keyboard even louder on stock
(especially my spacebar)
Man, your hands are built different. Using integrated plate with a long stem pole switch. How does that not destroy your fingers? I have a hard time using Holy Pandas on a POM plate with a decent amount of flex in my Sirius60.
Maybe I'll be paying for it down the line when I get older 😅
Would you use this in an office environment? I'm thinking of modding my keyboard and I was going for the Moyu Blacks but reviews said they were very loud was hoping boba u4t would be alright
There’s a silent version of the switch as well (U4)
I wouldn't, I could see most people being distracted by it. As Kimcheenk mentioned, the U4s are silent and pretty similar. I actually use them at work and they're quieter than others' membrane keyboards.
Hi there, may i know what lube did you use for the switches?
Cheers
I mix my own using Super Lube PTFE Grease and PTFE Oil. Mix to your desired consistency (I usually use a little thinner for tactile switches like these).
@@bigxie thanks for the reply. Appreciate it!
good comparison, wanted to hear one with gazzews method. how does scrath compare between lubed and unlubed rails?
I think it's pretty subtle, I didn't really think they were scratchy to begin with, but with the lube I don't really notice it (at least while typing). If you hold the switch up to your ear, maybe you can hear some scratch and a little bit of spring noise.
@@bigxie i see, thats a good sign then. waiting on the switch to arrive and so far have been impressed enough that i don't know that i have to spend the time lubing it
how is the quality of the case?
It's pretty well made, the finish is good. If you get it, I would definitely recommend the acrylic spacer add on - it makes the underglow show through and it also drastically reduces pinging from the metal bottom.
Oh yeah, the lubed ones sounds hella a lot deeper
How do you lube those switch? Do you just bag lube the spring? Also what lube do you use?
I actually just lubed the side rails of the bottom housing and donut dipped the bottoms of the springs. Super lazy, but it's the recommended method from Gazzew. For lube, I actually just use a Superlube mix. I actually go over it in my GMMK Pro video I just uploaded, so you can check out that chapter if you're interested in making some pretty decent lube for $8.
@@bigxie Thank you!
What keycaps are those??
Those are the "season 4" dye-sub PBT keycaps that are matched for the Tokyo60 v4 from Drop. They're essentially just black (font) on black (keys).
did you buy them pre lubed?
I did not, they are just already really decent out of the box.
have you ever tried lubed+ filming gateron yellow? I wondering which more thockest between boba and yellow
They are different. Yellow is linear and boba is tactile. I used yelow for daily and they're buttery smooth, and just yesterday I tried boba 68g. They're more thocky than yellow.
Yeah, I will second Eka. Gat yellows that are properly lubed and filmed are really great budget linears that can perform above their price point, but aren't really comparable to the U4T's in terms of feel or sound.
@@bigxie the cost of gat yellow ks3+film+205 almost the same to stock u4t , i dont mind whether its linesr or tacile though , just want to know which one more smoother (less scratchy) , thockiest , deep and non fatigue sounding
I see, that's a good point. The U4T's will be thockier and deeper, and I think that they're pretty comparable in terms of scratchiness (lubed gat yellows vs. stock bobas). Not too sure what defines something as "non fatigue sounding", but I think that on the same board, the U4Ts will be louder - whether that causes fatigue to you or not is a matter of taste. If you're typing for a long time, the Bobas could be physically more fatiguing though, even the 62g variant.
@@bigxie i never had have experience with heavy switch but right now im using gateron red which is very clacky actually its boring kind of sound..i want it more basier , deep thick sounding i don't mind about loud as long as its not high pitch or piercing sounding which will make me tired just to hear it..i actually enjoyed typing on gat red i just dont like the sound
Are you still using this keyboard?
Not too frequently, the layout is great for typing but not so much for gaming.
@@bigxie what keyboard are you using for gaming?
@@S.O.G.E.K.I.N.G I am mostly using my QK65 and Keychron Q1, but any standard layout will work better than HHKB (mostly it's the left shift and control keys which are used for sprint and crouch in FPS games that the Tokyo60 doesn't do well with)
Is this the 62g or 68g
These are 68g. However I wouldn't expect the 62g to sound different.
do u use any foam in this sound test?
Yeah, I lined the bottom case with foam in this build.
@@bigxie have you ever used tape mod + plate foam in this build ? do you think it will produce a deeper sound ? nice video btw
The tape mod wasn't really well known when I made this build and I haven't gone back and done it, but I do think that it will affect the sound and make it a bit more poppy (not sure if it will be "deeper" per se. Tape mod and maybe some higher profile keycaps (i.e SA or MT3) should result in a really thocky sound - you can hear how this board sounds with MT3 keycaps in my follow up video here: ua-cam.com/video/aiiMklpqUQ4/v-deo.html
i like the keyboard but i think that cable needs some changing
Haha, that's the trusty cable that came with my NK65, one of the first custom keyboards I ever purchased. It served me well, but I have upgraded since making this video. Thanks for watching!
epic
I think they sound better stock. They have more thock imo.
how do u lube a keyboard?
With a custom keyboard like this, you can open the switches to lube them before installing onto the PCB. You can also lube the stabilizers before installing them to the PCB as well.
How do you like the keyboard overall ?
I think it's a fun little keyboard with the HKKB layout, but I don't think it's the best for a beginner or as an intro to custom boards. It's integrated plate which results in a more difficult time tuning it to sound good, as well as resulting in a stiffer typing experience. For a beginner keyboard, I'd recommend the TKC Portico, KBDFans 67 Lite, or even the Cannonkeys Bakeneko as they all offer great value, a softer more comfortable typing experience, and great sound out of the box.
@@bigxie what about a intermediate keyboard what would you recommend ? And I was looking into the KBDFans 65
@@JustCreateYou the KBDFans67 Lite (a more "budget" version of their 65% keyboard) is widely regarded as really great sounding and a good implementation of gasket mount. Mine is coming in this week so I will have personal experience soon, but I am expecting great things. Another similar option is the TKC Portico, which I built last month and have been enjoying a lot and would recommend. Both are kind of tough to get though.
@@bigxie awesome thank you for the feedback do you have a video of the portico . And post a video of the kbd 67 lite can't wait 🤙🤙🤙
69th comment let's goooo. Also I just ordered these and I can't wait for them. Gonna make some holy boba switches with them.
че за клава
why do some video sound nicer then others so weird...
ni me movi
My bf would rather listen to this than listen to me💔
Oof he needs to get his priorities straight
In terms of feel and sound, would you recommend the zealios v2 or boba u4t? Despite the price of the two switches.
I think the Zealio are a little more tactile, but the sound is more muted and a lot less thocky than the U4Ts. My personal preference is for the Bobas, but your mileage may vary.
nice! I was looking forward to try this switches. I am currently using glorious pandas. :) subd as well..
Is that the cable that comes with the NK65 haha
Haha yep, good eye!
am I the only one who doesn't really hear the thock of the switch even tho everyone says it's super thocky? like it sounds so high pitched to me
It's thocky once you mod the case (tape mod, foam, etc)
i am the 900th sub
I so desperately want a decent tactile that doesn't hurt or sound like shit. I tried Zealios and Zilents to no avail-the quality was not up to par (the Xeno fiasco makes sense) and don't get me started on sound.
I was going to go for Glorious Pandas, but I'd much prefer supporting a smaller creator, and I'm surprised by how great the Thocky switches sound stock! How's the wobble, do they need filming?
Hi Sarah, yeah they sound great stock and I think it's due to the tight tolerances and material choice. There isn't any housing wobble so I think that films would be pretty much wasted on them.
I'm not too sure what you mean by tactiles that hurt? Do you mean like a really sharp tactile event? I feel like the tactility of the U4Ts (without legs lubed) are pretty similar to my Zealios V2 fully lubed (legs and all). I also only have experience with the 68g Bobas, so the 62g may be more suitable if you want something a little easier on the fingers.
nice comparison. From what I heard using headphone on stock there are some spring ping here and there and thats the only thing that bothers me. Probably only need to open it up, bag lubed it and boom its done. Gonna use it on bakeneko when its restock. Thank you for the comparison!
I think they'll sound nice in the bakeneko. I'm currently using H1's in mine and it's pretty clacky and poppy. I think with the U4Ts, it'll be a bit deeper and thockier.
You earned a sub!
so yummy...
Basically, no difference in the switches. It's a good sign of Gazzew's QC on these (for silents too - no need to lube and film those either)
they got 0.000000000000000000000000000000000000001% deeper though
Yeah, the out of box quality on the U4T's are pretty incredible! For the silent U4's, I actually do prefer to thoroughly lube and film them, if you are really trying to build a very silent board. I recently built out a 96% for office work with silent Boba U4's but was lazy and only really lubed and filmed the alphas and mods. I can clearly tell a difference between typing and using the numpad. The difference isn't going to make or break anything, but it really can elevate a "silent" board to thoroughly lube the silent U4's.
Even with my best headphones, I really can barely hear the difference. It's small enough that I wouldn't even bother modifying them especially since I am usually listening to stuff while using my computer so I wouldn't even be able to hear small rattles like that at all.
Yeah definitely, the U4T's really are great stock.
yups I noticed slighlty reduced pinging noice for the spring
i feel like that spacebar is backwards
If you haven't tried flipped spacebar yet, you're missing out 😉
stock boba u4t or stock akko matcha green?
they're both different types of switches. u4t is tactile, and matcha is linear
would you reccomend this board because im making my first custom
I think it depends on layout. This is an HKKB layout which some really prefer, but it is not the best for gaming (for example, control is where caps lock usually is). It's also fairly expensive. I know that later in July, the GMMK Pro will be in stock at Glorious, so you may want to look into that one if you are looking for a more standard layout.
Are these good for gaming
I think it depends on your preference. Some players don't like gaming on tactiles, but I think it's fine. I'm not super competitive though and these do take more force to actuate than say, a light linear (40g) switch, but in all likelihood, unless you're an upper echelon pro gamer, it won't make a difference.
@@bigxie Okay Thanks
Second, also can you please do a how to lube a Durgod Venus with gateron yellows because I wanna know how to do it and how it will sound. Thanks
I don't think that's a hot swap board, so if you really wanted to get the switches out, you'd need to desolder them. Once they're out you can open them and lube them. But in my opinion, it's not worth the effort.
@@bigxie ok, thanks for letting me know, also I want to try the whole Razer Huntsman TE mods but a lot of people say the Huntsman TE has a space bar problem so idk if I should do it or not, for you was it worth it? Out of curiosity
@@marcelogaribay2967 I'm not familiar with the spacebar problem you're referring to, but I thought the Huntsman TE was very straightforward to mod and it made a big difference. I think it comes down to how comfortable you are with taking apart electronics, that's about it.
@@bigxie yeah I got the Huntsman TE for Christmas and I don’t wanna risk breaking it you know, but it’s so pingy and there is a lot of rattling and I want to lube and mod it but once again I don’t wanna break it so I am kinda hesitating wether I should do it or not. What do you think, should I buy a new keyboard and mod that or mod my Huntsman TE?
@@marcelogaribay2967 modding the Huntsman will void the warranty, so if you're worried about that, I wouldn't do it. If you have the budget for another keyboard, you can try a hot swap board which will make lubing the switches and modding the stabs a lot easier. You can tune it to sound better without much risk of critically damaging it.