What Is The Best Lightweight Concrete Mix?
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2021
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From www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pag... - Learn about making lightweight concrete and how using different mixing ratios will produce different final results. This video talks about using perlite or vermiculite as the lightweight concrete aggregate. Using a higher ratio of lightweight aggregate than portland cement gives up a lot of the strength of the finished product. What ratio you use for your mix depends on what project you are using the lightweight concrete for.
#swimmingpoolsteve #concrete #diy - Навчання та стиль
*I manufacture floating concrete boat docks so I use large bags of PRE-PUFFED Styrene pellets (Bean bag chair stuffing) and its often used in buildings for pouring second story floors from homes so it's VERY TUFF! 1400lbs. per sq. foot loading factor at 8" thick. The top layer is hard-set by rollering Sodium Silicate over it at 28 days to make the surface cure into a CERAMIC HARD and water proof layer.*
This sounds awesome. What mix of styrene pellets to concrete do you use? Do you just roll dry sodium silicate on or is it some kind of liquid form? Thanks
@@Tonisuperfly Styrene is going to float so even to make it into a paste. A bit hard to work with, takes practice. We also add 60% #16, #30 and #60 mesh silica sand to the cement since it needs filling to be economical and strong. Mix the cement powder extra long until it looks creamy. The last addition is the Styrene and it has to be folded-in with a plaster style mixer. We use a concrete pump to move it around the factory since its so thick. Looks like dough but is light as whipped cream.
Our mixer has a compress air injector port in the bottom so we get a lot of extra air entertainment in the mix. THIS STUFF FLOATS LIKE A CORK, IS TOUGH AS BRICK PLUS EASY TO REPAIR. We do build a cheap chicken wire cage frame so it's monolithic and our docks can never split in two pieces while they can crack like any concrete object.
@@johnslugger Well, thanks for elaborating. Sounds like a pretty involved process but really useful and interesting to. When you mix the cement powder till it’s creamy, I assume you mix it with the silica sand in there at that point?
This channel is an absolute hidden gem. Please don't stop doing what you're doing
That is very cool that you think that. Cheers.
This was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much.
Steve.. You're the MAN! I love that you touch on ALL aspects around a pool. I have worked with concrete for 42 years now, and you nailed it! You have a lot of knowledge about a lot of pool / patio projects! I've been telling myself, if I ever win the lottery, I'm going to "try" to hire your services to design and build me a HUGE pool!
Its only $499 so I dont think you need to win the lottery first to pay for my services...though the pool is going to cost a few bucks too! www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/ask-steve.html
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Thank you very much Steve.
Thank you so much for the information that was very helpful.
So glad I found you! You seem to be the perfect person to learn from and hopefully get a question answered 🙂
What is your recommendation for an inground sand pit for my pit bulls? Love that you added the info for the bonding adhesive 👍
This was incredibly helpful...thanks!👍🏼🍻✌🏽
Awesome video. Learned a ton.
Thank you so much for such a good video. It is really helpful for a person like me who doesnt know anything about concrete who wants to build a light weight garden fountain.
I have been watching people using Styrofoam to make fountains and when I tried it doesnt work well as they say. And when I look for light weight concrete, no one explained so well like you did. Thank you so much. Now I can confidently make a fountain with 1:2 ratio and with fiberglass and some wires and PVA glue.... hahahha... Thank you so much.
Incredible Steve...So nicely explained....I am a fan yours now onwards.Thank you for the same.
Cool stuff. I'm considering making 'hypertufa' planters (natural tufa being a porous limestone) as a cheap substitute for terracotta. Simplest recipe is portland cement, peat moss, and perlite. Including sand is better, but I have a bunch of limestone crush, so I might use that if I'm sure it will work well enough.
Thank you for the genuine info. May I ask the best mixture for small planter and small candle pot
I really enjoyed your video. I've been trying to find a light concrete mix to make rock for my saltwater aquarium. Now to research material that's fish safe. Thank you again for great videos.
Thanks for your quick reply Steve, I was after a lightweight solution but I don't think I'm going to find one!
Look into hypertuffa which is a concrete mix made from peat moss. It is lighter weight mix that is almost unusable it is so weak, but one thing you can make is planter pots. There will be plenty of info and pictures of these if you google. It's definitely a niche lightweight mix but might be what you are looking for.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us. Do you think I could put this onto my wood veneer siding on my house?
Thanks for this information! Which one would you suggest to be a good choice when creating mold rocks for decorations for a koi pond?
Very good
Thank you
Thank you. Well done and effectively communicated. =)
Excellent info! That looks like very good quality perlite - a lot of intact uniformity. if you mixed in a range of smaller particles such as pumice or expanded clay, then less cement works, but you know that. Waste latex paint can be a good binder/waterproofer, because it is free! Needs mix experimentation though because it retards cement.
Interesting on the latex paint. Never thought to do that for strength or admixture value, only color for which I was inimpressed (unless you use white cement). That perlite was garden grade right from the local garden center.
Thank you for the useful info❣️. I’d like to make planting pots. Would the mixtures be toxic to plants?
Perlite is volcanic in nature. Thus the heat tolerance.
Great video. Answered some questions for me. Thanks.
Thank you!!! Clear...succinct...no theatrics!!! Just good, usable information!!!🤔😍
I used concrete, perlite and kaolin clay powder to make fake stones to side my house with. I colored them with charcoal powder and normal clay powder like red or brown and it worked great. They are light and pretty strong.
what is the ratio btw concrete, perlite and kaolin clay powder ?
This really helps with a solution I've been looking for. In the tropics we get a lot of sun hitting directly on concrete surfaces. The walls heat up and that heat radiates into the building all day. We use a lot of energy for AC cooling. That 8:1 mix will make a perfect heat shield and it still has enough concrete aesthetics for a concrete wall. And that light weight will make it really easy to work with. If it's bonded to an existing wall just as a surface material, the tensile weakness won't be an issue.
Investigate lime plaster. Bright white self repairing, just point up the cracks
styro-crete is another option. possibly with modified pva (might be very water resistant then, as styro is very water resistant too). I'm no concrete expert though, I've yet to test concrete mixes for a build I want to make. But a dry insulation will always insulate better than a soggy one, because water is an amazing conductor of thermal energy. Anyway, that thermal mass of the heavy 'real' concrete is actually very useful, but you need enough insulation (on the outside of it specifically). Once you get the right ratio, you can slow down the heating/cooling of the heavier thermal mass, such that it becomes cooling in the daytignt, and warming at night.
4 principals of insulation: insulative - substantially slows the rate of thermal exchange, works like the spiral part of a pan handle. It just tries to deny heat a direct path to conduct through, with lots of tiny air gaps. And also helps slow any air convection movement through the area. Thermal mass - stores thermal energy and slow-releases it, can even out temperature swings. And Reflective - basically foil, requires an open air space on the side you're trying to repel thermal energy. It won't reflect anything back into something it's touching, it just becomes a conductor then. This kinda says "no thanks" to the infrared "heat lamp" radiant heat energy. Refrigerated buildings or trucks usually have that foil-look on the outside. Can be in an attic too, but there must be some open air on the side it's trying to reflect heat back into. Sealing - keeps air flow from carrying heat/cold through a barrier by way of just physically moving through.
Technically also there's a vacuum, which is the insulative approach on steroids, and is unavoidably also 'sealed' vs air flow. But it will still 'radiate' the heat across the gap. The sun is 'radiating' heat to us through a vacuum ;) The Webb telescope uses 5 layers of gold foil (reflects even better than aluminum), separated by thin vacuum gaps (space). Keeps the Webb at a chilly -455 F, even though it's sunny side gets a LOT more direct rays than we get on the surface of earth.
Regular concrete is awesome as a thermal mass. But if it's absorbing & releasing heat too quickly, then it's not very helpful, Ye olden thick adobe walls use almost pure thermal mass to temperature regulate, it's just so thick that by the time the heat gets 'inside' its night time and chilly outside. Concrete can be very useful for giving your structure a nice even temperature range without temperature spikes. But you gotta slow the incoming rate of apsorbtion so you're not just getting 3PM heat releasing inside at 6PM hehe.
A house I'm designing, I want to add a 4" _non-structural_ interior concrete brick wall as it's innermost layer (with a styro-crete fill between it and the outer siding). Will help even out hot/cold spots, and hot/cold temperature swings, so the heating & cooling is dealing with roughly the same load day & night. With the right amount of insulation outside the concrete, and the heating/cooling turned off, the inside temp will be the all-day average of the outside temp. Then, if it's a scorcher of a day, just open the windows at night to cheat the system and evacuate some of the unwanted excess heat. It's what the romans did (albeit with no insulation, just much thicker concrete).
Anyway, insulative lightweight concrete is weather/corrosion resistant, fireproof, and mold-proof. It just sucks for structural strength. Great stuff, so long as you don't use it as structural concrete.
Informative info.
I watch your amazing video and I learn a lot from them. kindly, I’m trying to build a thin lightweight propane fire pit table all from concrete. The thickness I need is about more 1” and less. I’m not sure which concrete recipe(mix) fits this product and its ratio.
Thank you in advance
The internals of my pizza oven I used a dense, red clay brick (don't use concrete bricks stained red) Over that I put about 3 inches thick of perlite/portland. Really preserves the heat.
Great work, Steve. Thank you !
In structures there are 3 failure modes: Bending, shear and compression/tension.
The way you broke those tiles was by bending load. You can increase the bending strength by increasing the thickness. If you were to increase the thickness by two you would increase the bending strength by 4: M = sbt^2, where M is the bending load, s is the strength of the material (psi), b is the width and t is the thickness squared 🙂
Sooo.... If the 1.5 " slabs of 3/2 held 90 lbs on a 30" span, a six in slab would hold 1,440 lbs? And considerably more with 3 bars of 1/2 in rebar?
More lab videos on concrete..great video.
Please any link on how you design the mould? Thank you
Hello Steve,
I like all what you experiments, I am thinking of doing my own little business to manufacture pots for plant’s usage in different shape and sizes.
My question is how can I reach a reliable lightweight and economically viable product that I could mold it easily.
I currently using Portland cement with sand ratio 3 sand to 1 cement looks good but it is relatively heavy.
Appreciate your help. 🙏
Looking forward to your reply.
what would you suggest for like this style but like a fire brick because i am in the planing phase of making a custom rock-it stove and making with mold-able firebrick would be good idea
Thank you for your video. I'm building a pizza oven tunnel shape(not a dome) with materials that I have like red bricks but I was wondering if I can use cement mix with perlite to lay the bricks for the oven floor and the the structure, do you think will work for structural and heat resistant purpose? If that is the case, what will be the ratio that you recommend?
it is not tensile strength in construction that we are concerned with, but load baring. We can use wood, both boards and plywood or other materials to increase tensile strength as they do with standard construction. You might want to consider soaking the perlite in water prior to mixing to help create a stronger bond with the concrete as they do to bond older concrete with a new poor. Being in So. Florida and seeing how the different types of construction have withstood the hurricanes over the years has been interesting. Only when tornadoes were known to occur, has their been any significant damage since the 1920s from the wind. Of course, I'm on the S.E. coast and we have luckily escaped any significant water surges or wave damage, many think, because of the Gulfstream.
What kind of a mix would you create for a cover approximately 4x8 which is outside? Thanks Ken
I'm looking to fill an 18 inch thick wall with this stuff using slip forms to make an insulating mass. The only structural function is it needs to hold a couple inches of stucco on the outside. It looks like I could go with the 8:1 mix.
Have you done any testing with styrocrete (chopped styrofoam instead of perlite)?
How about with soil, or mixtures of perlite with various amounts of sand. If you laid some chicken wire in that 8:1 mixture, does it still break so easily? Or another thought might be to infuse fiberglass resin into the nooks and crannies, minimizing the amount of resin requires for space filling applications. This follows what you were saying about colored concrete gap filling.
I'm getting the idea I shouldn't build a creek dam out of this stuff.
Romans used something special, I can't remember the details, but sea algea or fungus would penetrate and grow in the concrete, giving it the extra tensile strength.
Maybe a biodegradable material could be used to replicate the process with mushroom mycelium.
I'm pretty sure vermiculite is used to transfer dry mushroom spores because of how porous it is.
That was insanely helpful. I'd never considered the insulative properties of lightweight cement before. The main draw for me is aesthetics, not weight. So I wouldn't mind using regular aggregate along with the lightweight stuff. I'm really just after the "sparkle" of the vermiculite. My question is, how would it do as a countertop? Maybe 2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts regular aggregate, 1 part portland. Throw in some cat whiskers and PVA for added strength. Then grind/polish to expose the aggregate and seal it appropriately.
No no no on a countertop! For a countertop , if you want a masonary product, you want as dense of a material as possible so its impenetrable to water! And you still better waterproof under that!
would you use any of this for a kitchen counter? How about a sink? How about using some rebar or mesh?
Could you device a strength in bending test relative to other mixes?
Can perlite be used effectively for a fireplace hearth cemented to foundation??
Great video
What would be your suggested mix for a small dome pizza oven.
It would sit on a base of fire brick.
No brick in the construction, but a wire reinforcement in the middle.
Thanks
Ditto to your comment…that’s what I’d like to know? Many thanks ❤
Cool video Steve! Have you tried adding chicken wire or hardware cloth? Could this add strength without adding much weight?
Fiberglass fibers and chopped glass fibers adds significant tensile strength without weight… oh he just said that. But I know it works from experience.
You could pack more perlite by playing with the granulometry ratios of the perlite in the cement. Let's say you start with 8 parts of mesh 5 perlite, 2 parts of mesh 10, 0.5 parts of 35 mesh then you would have better compaction of the agregate.
Also, if you want to cheat for strength, you can make a sandwich panel by using nothing but chopped mat fabric and cement at the top and bottom of the brick.
So a two to one mix with pva will probably be good for a small in ground pond for goldfish. Do you agree? Asking for a friend, but I subscribed. Thanks
Hmmm
So if I cast it into panels 2" thick with both a galvanized mesh and chopped fiber (to strengthen it just enough to be able to move it around) then covered the outside of the house it might be a good insect and fire resistant insulation? Note I'm talking about putting on a moisture barrier and some form of exterior siding on too of the lightweight panels.
I has insects tunnel into the styrofoam insulation on my house and it all had to be stripped off.
I have an old triplex with wooden floors. I installed my laminate flooring on top of the existing wooden floors but the tenants in the lower unit complain so much from the noise from above; ( thumping and walking etc by the middle floor tenants). . Will lightweight concrete alleviate with this situation? Can I remove the laminate floor and put lightweight concrete underneath before re-installing? does it help with sound muffling and noise reduction?
in our city the weather is very harsh, the temperature of concrete rise till 56 degree Celsius, at roof during the day time in summer, will it be useful to have a thin layer of lightweight concrete to reduce this enormous heat? and what proportion should and what aggregates to be used ?
I want to build a 1.5 ft x 1.5 ft wall around my patio to raise the curb before I install windows. If perlite cement not strong enough?
I'm thinking about using lightweight concrete to form a "base plate" in my aquarium to hold other natural dry rock on top of it. Thinking maybe 20-40 pounds of weight per base plate. Do you think lightweight concrete is strong enough to hold that weight? Given they're about 1 and 1/2 to 2 and 1/2 inches thick plates?
Hey Steve. Any thoughts/tips on wet curing a pool deck?
really depends on what mix the deck is. Mostly, yes, I wet cure concrete but sometimes the mix design uses products that hold moisture already, like latex acrylic or SBR latex and these advise against wet curing. Plus any integral colors will react with wet curing and might cause inconsistancies in the coloration.
Steve sir please share mixing ratio 🙏
Clear details.
That 8:1 with the very porous surface would take a render nicely. All it needs is the fibre mix, some reo to hold it together over longer distances, and a tough render to protect the surface, and you've got a great super-insulated wall.
It would, but I would worry about two things...first I would not use it for areas with large temperature swings as thermal delamination between the layers would be a possibility, but just more so that the substrate layer would be so weak. At 8:1 it is almost crumbling with any touch.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve So would you go for one of the richer cement mixes, or adding some sand, or adding fibre? 1:8 is a lot less cement than in a standard 1:2:3 concrete, especially without the larger pieces of aggregate that don't need cement inside them to hold together.
May I ask a favor? I have a big metal tank as furnace, and I use 600c degrees with, but I want to to coat it with liner of refractory cement (mortar or castable) with wire metal (mesh). so, what is a good kind of refractory cement ? and what’s a good ratio?
Can I just make a regular concrete wall and use a finishing layer with concrete and perlite and still get the insulation benefits? Perlite is very expensive at 40 dollars per 100 liter bag
Thanks for the info ! great information! It looks like the 10:1 mixture vs 4:1 didn't vary that much in weight but sacrificed a lot in strength, I'm making a couple dozen 3 ' faux armour stone landscape rocks - like the perlite mix experiments, and thinking maybe the 4 : 1 mix might be the best ratio of strength/ lightweight, applied over some structure of chicken wire or hardware cloth with something to keep the mixture falling through...maybe newspaper? trash bag? I'll keep viewing these videos before I commit to the material. So much to know
What is water amount added to each? Are you saying 1 : 1 Portland to perlite then 1 : 2 Portland to 2 perlite, please clarify=)
Can I make a bathtub out of lightweight concrete? Seems like it would have insulating properties also.
Hello Steve, what's your advice on the mix for large plant pots?
3 to 1 mortar with 10% liquid acrylic/latex. This is NOT lightweight. It is the heaviest and strongest mix, and replacing 10% of your water with acrylic or latex will enhance the strength and is suitable for wet/dry locations.
Why didn't you try breaking the remaining bricks, how strong are the 1:1 and 2:1 mix?
Is the 4:1 or 8:1 reasonably heat resistant / fireproof?
What about using clay pebbles?
Where I can buy the perlite
May I ask how you made the face planters on the shelf? Thank you
You may indeed ask! I have a passion for decorative concrete and I make those with concrete and mortar. I have a UA-cam channel dedicated to it. Please find and subscribe to Creating Concrete www.youtube.com/@creatingconcrete
In a pizza oven you'd want some diatomaceous earth in the mix, 10-15% or more. It is thermally stable with a very high melting point and your concrete will expand and crack less.
Same for furnaces, which is my experience with it.
Graphite too, like 5% in you wish.
Haven't used fibers so no comment there.
Old crushed pottery is good, old crushed fire brick, better. It had already metamorphosized/vitrified and stable also.
Sodium penta-silicate, i.e. waterglass as well.
Hey Steve. Thanks for your content. Already took your advice on laying concrete over concrete and improving adhesion. And now this. The perlite that I have is powder, not granules, feels like fluffy sand, floats around in the air if completely dry. Never really dries out once wet. I suppose the cement to perlite ratio should be higher due to the higher surface area of the perlite, right? I was hoping to get away with 1:3 by volume of cement and some polypropylene fibers. Only doing planters, nothing structural. Do you think it could work?
Depends on how thick you pour. The fine grain will help with strength, but the perlite is not very strong in a mix. I have a new concrete only youtube channel and I have just completed testing a half dozen lightweight mixes and (spoiler) the perlite made the weakest result other than aircrete. This lightweight series is not live yet. Releasing it soon so search for and subscribe to the "Creating Concrete" youtube channel if you want to see the lightweight concrete showdown
@@SwimmingpoolsteveThanks for answering! I was planning on a 25 mm sidewall, the thing is going to be approx 1.15×0.3×0.25 m (L×W×H), like a trough, deeper than wide. Will try anyway, I'd have to pay to get rid of the perlite otherwise. Will keep an eye out for your new material, thanks!
Porvar makes glass bead aggregate, great for light weight cc.
Lightweight concrete is NOT merely decorative. While it is not generally structural, it is useful in many applications--particularly as an insulative layer between harder concrete mixtures. One particular application is as an insulative layer between two sprayed layers of ferro-cement. The added metal (and/or fiberglass) mesh of the two outside layers provide all the structural strength necessary and the lightweight mixture (I like papercrete for this) adds insulation. Papercrete provides R- 6.7 per inch. That is definitely a useful, non-decorative application!
I don't want to use perlite and concrete for structure purposes. I do want to use perlite and S Mortar and Porland(fast drying) to plaster between my studs. I can avoid nails and condensation on metal. I would like to have rigid styrofoam on the external surface covered by half inch sheeting. I don't know where to place the vapor barrier - inside under the plasterboard, outside under the styrofoam or both. How to I eliminate water in the walls from condensation. I live in temps that are zero F in the winter and 80 F in the summer.
thanks for the video. A lot of so-called "lightweight concrete" really isn't concrete.. the aggregate is just sand and the cement ratio basically makes it grout. There IS actually structural lightweight concrete where 3/4" to 1" size lava rock is the large aggregate, and the remainder of sand and cement ratio is more of what you'd expect in a high-strength concrete. Very strong mix. Lots of commercial structural applications.
Good to know. Thanks
What would this magical product be called?
@@yousifdelvalle3671 locally here (i am in Utah, USA) some ready-mix suppliers just sell it as 6 or 7-bag lightweight mix. it's weight is about 118 lbs / cubic foot versus about 140 lbs for a "regular" mix.
Cool
Amazing tips and advice! Thank you!
Question: I happen to be close to the beach and I'd like to make some bricks using Portland cement and beach sand. Could you please be kind and let me know what should I use in order to reduce the ratio to 1 part cement : 10 parts beach sand?
I know beach sand is not the best choice, but in my case it is free and I'd like to try. What else would you advice me to add into, so that the mix could be stronger? (perhaps diluted white glue?) Thank you!
Most importantly: WASH the sand. The sand must be clean, with no dirt in it, for the portland cement to adhere to it properly.
@@donjet5371 Definitely. However in brick making there would be no need for ultra strong concrete, I think washing is good though. Thanks!
In my experience, brilliant people find it hard to communicate. In your case, your communication was was also brilliant.
Sir i have some question regarding on perlite. Is that perlite is the same with those that is been using for plants and garden, or it is a different thing?
Same.
If I want to make a lightweight concrete slab, 3/1 perlite, with 1/2 rebar, 5.5 inches thick, 8 feet long with 36" span at center, 18" wide,( a hearth with firewood storage beneath) how strong would it be, that is, should a fat man (me, 220 lbs) stand in the center of the span would it hold?
Hi
We are trying to put a light weight cement roof for non live weight roof- no body will be walking on it . So we can put a special roof instillation system on top of it . What is the cheapest, most resilient mix for that ? Thx
Your question is important.
Hello, I’m looking to create a large table, I’m planning on breaking it up into 3 parts to make it easier to transport but I was wondering if there is a lightweight solution to make it even easier….
Yes, but then it will be so much weaker also. Which will matter even more for something you want to be able to move around.
Wot about styroaircrete?
I understand that using this as a load baring or structural member wouldn’t be safe, but what are your thoughts as a filler for a skeletal steel dome, in the same vein as those made of foam or a Binishell?
With a sealant, of course.
Lightweight is used as a filler in block walls for fire resistance and thermal efficiency. If your structure can support the load, the lightweight concrete can provide additional benefits.
Put fly ash in the mix
Could this be used for a kitchen bench top?
With a ~10mm veneer for the top of course
as for vermiculite mix how much is a good ratio did u test it out ?
Depends on the application you need it for but 2-1 to 4-1 verm to Portland cement is going to be most projects. Ultra light and weak is okay project might use 6-1 or 8-1 for something like filling hollow block wall voids for insulation improvement
Why not also demonstrate just styrofoam beads I have had great luck with it as insulating panels.
All varieties of scrap styrofoam are useful small electric mower upside down with a large plastic barrel on top to grind styrofoam into small beads.
Experimenting with some foam mixture also possibly allows a better mix of beads with cement.
hey can anyone tell me in a nutshell what he have told in this video.
what is the best concrete solution.?
Wait
Dam I'm thinking in using it on my deck with wire or stone wall metal sheets for putting stone on walls but thinking chicken wire of Doubling layer with tar paper on deck boards first then chicken wire then light weight concrete mixture
Putting 1/4in rebar n on top of tar paper then wire rebar double layer chicken wire to then lightweight concrete
The forbidden rice krispy
As there is only about 100g different in weight between the 4:1 abd 8:1 there is really no benefit, at least in terms of wight reduction to use 8:1 and it's way weaker. Maybe it has better insulating properties but I doubt it.
So what would you recommend if I wanted to build a waterfall feature to place on a wood deck?
That's right . You do not have to be a genius to understand that light concrete is weak . He has talked for 17 minutes about nothing and he didn't run any comparison test between vermiculite and perlite, from other people I know that it is better to use perlite but I would use styrofoam bids
To strenghthen the fragile building materials the Monolythic Domes works with Basalt Type rebar and fiber mesh that won't rust like metal rebar will and building with salt with water proof coating has endless supplies especially with Eirex Tech to desalinate ocean water as free byproduct of generating lowest cost hydrogen gaseous fueled electricity.
I'd use PVA and fiberglass strands.
Add EPS granules to lower cost.
I need to see a render of white cement, yellow sand, and either vermiculite or another mica mineral. I want to see the pretty cream walls sparkle in sunlight like a trashy novel vampire.
Perlite vermiculite alright been wondering about this. God bless you for educating me on this mix...ok fiberglass is better tensile strength
I make aerated cellular concrete. Lightweight officially begins at and below 120 PCF (pounds per cubic foot)
Normal weight is 150 PCF
At 120 PCF I can do 12,000 PSI
At 30 PCF I’m still 1000 psi
Good day sir, can i ask for your mixture?
☺️👍
I've never seen anyone inject this many advertisements into a single video, not to mention this could have been exponentially more valuable with the inclusion of a comparison-matrix in writing.
Interesting info about the ads. I don't actually place those, youtube did. I appreciate knowing this info
@@Swimmingpoolsteve - No, your video is not YT auto-monetized. It's explicitly setup under your YT "Studio" under "Monetization". One ad at the start, one at the end, is commonplace; every two minutes (as in this video) is disruptively excessive.
@@InspiredScience Yes, my video has ads placed by UA-cam, where UA-cam thinks they should be. I did not set the number of ads, nor the placement of them. I still thank you for bringing this info to my attention.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve - It must have been an honest mistake. None-the-less, you certainly can limit your "mid-roll ads", either by limiting yourself to traditional "monitization" alone (ads at the start/end of the video), or by editing the mid-rolls breakpoints to reduce.
Perlite looks like a popcorn
Research dustcrete here on youtube
Sawdust and portland.
Monolithic infill
Biilds like clayslip and straw
Stucco with lime plaster