I love this idea of making a concrete table for our patio! When we fix cracks and holes in our polished concrete we use concrete mix with clear epoxy and it blends in almost seamlessly.
Can you give an update on cracking? I'm thinking of doing an outside bar top like this but its an L shape and much bigger......and it's ony wooden deck.
@@hotrox2112 Do you think this would hold up if installed over ½ inch plywood and ¼ hardibacker? I would like to do this on an outside bar top. It will be fully exposed to the elements though
It WILL NOT hold up. He bonded concrete to a wooden substrate with no mechanical decoupling. Big NO NO and it's not a secret. This guy is showing people how to waste their time and money.
Did you seal the underside of the table(door) at all? You should especially if it is going outside. Also maybe it is just the camera lens but it looks a bit warped at the end of the video which may also have happened because you didn't seal the underside before the concrete cured. I have seen the same effect happen with epoxy on wood where it is only on one side and the other side is raw wood.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been trying to work out how to build my outdoor table for months and this morning while in the shower… I thought, could I use a door with a concrete coat? You’ve helped me hugely!
I would seal the wood underneath as well. The particle board WILL absorb moisture from underneath and swell if it's not well sealed. THAT would be more likely to cause cracking over time than the expansions and contractions caused by temperatures. Just a thought.
great minds think alike.... so using an epoxy paint to completely, replace the porous brittle cement based material, would have been even a better choice IMHO
particle board is to flexible even before it would deteriorate....to have anything brittle applied to it... but QUIKRETE is the sponsor so this what you get when that happens ;)
@@prajaktashivarkar7019 skip the wood and just mix fiberglass and concrete. Light weight, stronger than steel. You could drop a truck engine onto a 1 inch thick slab and it won't break. I've seen a guy try to break a fiberglass+concrete mix with a sledge hammer and have to go find a bigger sledge hammer.
I saw this installation, a guy went to an existing customers boardroom where they'd poured a boardroom table, they spent 14 hours breaking it into manageable pieces and pouring a new boardroom table at the client's new premises. They poured the new one with less fiberglass and more concrete, just in case they have to demolish it again someday.
Awesome? Really? How would you know? Bonding to a wooden substrate is the OPPOSITE of what you want to do. Never heard of mechanical decoupling? SMH Blind leading the blind.
Concrete will crack, the reinforcement just prevents the cracks pulling away. Reinforcement is normally put suspended into the liquid mix. Putting it onto the door is no more useful than the door its self is holding the table together.
And how light is floor leveler. Have you ever picked up a bag, its not light. Not light at all. Plus a solid core door. At least 300 bucks in materials not including the legs.
Just mix in fiberglass particulate (comes in giant bags). When its finished, not only won't it ever crack.. it will also never cut. Dulls an angle-grinder blade in 8 inches of travel on a surface pass.
@@HomeMadeModern love the creative hybrid use of the materials.... but without sealer, the moisture retention when its used outdoors, will weaken the core... and even with use of fiber tape the edges seem like they could become cracked and broken off easily.... IMHO an epoxy coating would have given it a similar look that would last much longer... and I would have at least eased (ie rounded) the edges in either case...
Very interesting project Ben. Some definite out-of-box thinking and expansion of materials for design/construction. Really want to see how well it holds up outside after a year. 👍
Not to be "THAT GUY" but the wooden door core is a fatal flaw. When you pour wet concrete on wood, the wood will expand as it absorbs the water from the concrete and act like a sponge. If you leave it outside, the cold or the hot sun hitting the concrete will make the wood INSIDE the concrete contract and expand (or contract at different rates than the concrete. That pressure will crack the concrete or create void that will be much weaker in parts of the table. I also worry about freezing and wooden core expanding inside the concrete like a form of ice heave.
You're quite correct and beat me to pointing this out. He'd have been better served using the door (completely waterproofed somehow then drenched in release agent) as part of a form and then removed it. This would fall apart in less than a year in my climate.
It's just fine being "that guy" when you are 100% correct and aren't douchey about it, which you weren't... When he said the door itself wouldn't stand up to the elements, I thought to myself that the concrete actually made things a lot worse...
Concrete shrinks as it cures which is why you had the crack around the perimeter- the door underneath provided restraint against the shrinkage. Maybe if you had a strip of foam rubber around the edge of the door it would not have offered restraint against the shrinkage but the concrete edge would not have been connected to the door edge. I would have continued the mesh tape into the sides too.
I really like the look of this. The pattern reminds me of water swirls on a sandy creek bed or something. A 'calm' but not boring design. And it would be really inexpensive to make, if one could snatch up an old door, about to be discarded. I'll definitely keep this idea in mind!
Might use rigid foam on plywood instead of the dreaded particle board, but such a good idea using the floor leveller for a super smooth texture. Will it hold up to freezing temps?
As a skateboarder, im always looking at projects like this and wondering what i can use in making DIY skate obstacles. This is a very interesting idea that i might try with a concrete "ledge". Hopefully itll hold up!
Very nice. I'd make the slab solid without the cost of the door, and use that saving to buy shredded fiberglass.. mix that directly into the concrete mix and pour that into a mold after applying a face-layer of countertop mix. It'll weigh about the same, then I'd affix the legs directly to the concrete using plugs which I'd reinforce with epoxy. The slab can be as thin as 3/4" and hold 500lbs even if it's twice the size. You can go three times the size of your door if you make the slab 1 inch thick. We're talking boardroom table sized, 1 inch thick concrete slabs that can easily take the weight of a grown man jumping on it.
I suspect that the wood door expanding and contracting with temperature and humidity changes between night and day will put a significant strain on the concrete. Will it be under a roof? Obviously with this being a video project you weren't able to do this, but in instances where you can let the concrete cure longer, going over it with Water Glass/a concrete densifier before your top coat would help as well and prevent water from seeping through the concrete to penetrate the wood below
your concrete edges will surely eventually pop off from wood expansion and shrinkage..... but ideas about pouring things thicker and popping that door out come to mind.
You could screw a bunch of screws in the underlying board and add a mesh so you could bound better the concrete to the board, making the table much more resistant. Great job!
How did it work out? I’ve been using micro cement microtech and was thinking there would be a cheaper alternative. You may have found it, but I’m sure that doesn’t come in white.
nice table, I enjoy these experiments. "plastic tarp" - tarpaulin is the name of the material, not the form of the sheet. You can also use vermiculite as an aggregate if you want to reduce the weight of regular pours by a little, and it adds an interesting rock like texture
Well, expert, why don't you explain to him that bonding to a wooden substrate is the OPPOSITE of what you want to do? Huh? Never heard of mechanical decoupling? SMH Blind leading the blind.
You're better off with a solid concrete countertop. Or, if you currently have laminate, I have seen people just "skim coat" the laminate with concrete.
It's definitly a bend, this just work well in a small table or something like that, it seems pretty fragile and do not look like able to endure weith at all. However its is cool and gave ideas for other kinds of projects.
That is nice all in all but what about the door? Did you thoroughly seal the bottom against moisture? If you did not it will absorb moisture from the air or from rain that runs over the side and swell and contract. If that happens your table will soon be nothing but cracks. Making certain that no moisture whatsoever can get into the door from any source and adding fiber reinforcement to the cement and putting stainless steel screws along the edges of the door will go a long way to prevent cracking and holding everything together so someone putting pressure on the edge will not break off a chunk if they press too hard.
Surely comcrete is porous so water will get to the fiber board which will expand etc. Love the look though. I'd do this for an indoor table. Though if such a thin coat of comcrete is sturdy, then that's how everyone would do their counter tops?
How would this work if I did it on top of a round plastic table, like the ones you find at a rental hall with pretty tablecloths covering them up. Lightweight type. Maybe replace with more sturdy weather proof legs. Should I completely cover plastic with bonding tape? Thx
Definitely should have covered ALL the edges with the fiber tape to help adhere the concrete to the door. This is a great idea, an alternative to using a sheet of thick foam to make lightweight concrete.
You can use a palm sander to get all the air out , and you can use molding around the edges to leave a round edge too also wire in the slab would make it stronger cool results though for not a lot of cash
Is the water based polyurethane UV resistant since it's an outdoor table? Plus I don't think water based polyurethane is waterproof. This table might need to be covered up when not in use and it will probably continually produce cracks like stucco tends to as the wood expands and contracts with moisture and heat.
I love experimentation so I support this wholeheartedly, but I suspect/fear this will not work. It’s basically a cheap door with cheap stucco… and the two materials will shrink and swell differently in the outdoor temperature and moisture conditions and it will pop off, right? Thank you for sharing and please let us know how it works!!
love the creative hybrid use of the materials.... but without sealer, the moisture retention when its used outdoors, will weaken the core... and even with use of fiber tape the edges seem like they could become cracked and broken off easily.... IMHO an epoxy coating would have given it a similar look that would last much longer... and I would have at least eased (ie rounded) the edges in either case...
I love this idea of making a concrete table for our patio! When we fix cracks and holes in our polished concrete we use concrete mix with clear epoxy and it blends in almost seamlessly.
ua-cam.com/channels/KxrlTXMZAWDd6acJHcvhdw.html
Can you give an update on cracking? I'm thinking of doing an outside bar top like this but its an L shape and much bigger......and it's ony wooden deck.
It'll be interesting to see how this holds up, especially with your extreme temperature ranges. Thanks for sharing!
@@hotrox2112 Do you think this would hold up if installed over ½ inch plywood and ¼ hardibacker? I would like to do this on an outside bar top. It will be fully exposed to the elements though
It WILL NOT hold up. He bonded concrete to a wooden substrate with no mechanical decoupling. Big NO NO and it's not a secret. This guy is showing people how to waste their time and money.
Did you seal the underside of the table(door) at all? You should especially if it is going outside. Also maybe it is just the camera lens but it looks a bit warped at the end of the video which may also have happened because you didn't seal the underside before the concrete cured. I have seen the same effect happen with epoxy on wood where it is only on one side and the other side is raw wood.
To my opinion, the edge crack is related to unprotected chipboard sides. As it soaks moisture, it expands.
Most common point of failure
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been trying to work out how to build my outdoor table for months and this morning while in the shower… I thought, could I use a door with a concrete coat? You’ve helped me hugely!
I would seal the wood underneath as well. The particle board WILL absorb moisture from underneath and swell if it's not well sealed. THAT would be more likely to cause cracking over time than the expansions and contractions caused by temperatures. Just a thought.
great minds think alike.... so using an epoxy paint to completely, replace the porous brittle cement based material, would have been even a better choice IMHO
particle board is to flexible even before it would deteriorate....to have anything brittle applied to it... but QUIKRETE is the sponsor so this what you get when that happens ;)
Which sealant to be applied on the wood before applying wet cement? I am using plywood
@@prajaktashivarkar7019 skip the wood and just mix fiberglass and concrete. Light weight, stronger than steel. You could drop a truck engine onto a 1 inch thick slab and it won't break. I've seen a guy try to break a fiberglass+concrete mix with a sledge hammer and have to go find a bigger sledge hammer.
I saw this installation, a guy went to an existing customers boardroom where they'd poured a boardroom table, they spent 14 hours breaking it into manageable pieces and pouring a new boardroom table at the client's new premises. They poured the new one with less fiberglass and more concrete, just in case they have to demolish it again someday.
This is awesome. It would be cool to make a whole furniture set, coffee table, side tables, shelves, etc with this same surface.
Awesome? Really? How would you know?
Bonding to a wooden substrate is the OPPOSITE of what you want to do. Never heard of mechanical decoupling? SMH Blind leading the blind.
@@DiffEQ You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Concrete will crack, the reinforcement just prevents the cracks pulling away. Reinforcement is normally put suspended into the liquid mix. Putting it onto the door is no more useful than the door its self is holding the table together.
also the side are not supported in any way. had this been just a screed layer then it would have sufficed
@@quicksilverstrom yep this at the most just makes for a good youtube video when they run out of ideas
And how light is floor leveler. Have you ever picked up a bag, its not light. Not light at all. Plus a solid core door. At least 300 bucks in materials not including the legs.
Just mix in fiberglass particulate (comes in giant bags). When its finished, not only won't it ever crack.. it will also never cut. Dulls an angle-grinder blade in 8 inches of travel on a surface pass.
Love those SemiExact legs! Chris is such a cool designer!
I'm intrigued. I'd love to consider this as a countertop. Curious to see if it cracks over time and what impact it can take.
u can pour something over the counter top. and make the new crete top
I'm thinking this could be good for a counter top too.
Very cool idea, is the table bowed slightly in the morning? Or was that an effect of the wide angle lense?
mostly the lense since the floor looks a bit bent as well
@@HomeMadeModern love the creative hybrid use of the materials.... but without sealer, the moisture retention when its used outdoors, will weaken the core... and even with use of fiber tape the edges seem like they could become cracked and broken off easily....
IMHO an epoxy coating would have given it a similar look that would last much longer... and I would have at least eased (ie rounded) the edges in either case...
Nice idea for a cheap outdoor table.
Very interesting project Ben. Some definite out-of-box thinking and expansion of materials for design/construction. Really want to see how well it holds up outside after a year. 👍
It won't take a year. It's mechanically coupled to a wooden substrate. Big no no. Thanks him for wasting everyone's time and money.
What if you waterproof the door before pouring the concrete?
@@amandah-v3k I think the problem will be different expansion/contraction rates between the wood and concrete. That is what would concern me anyway.
I watched due to the thumbnail, and wasn't disappointed. Jessie is super-cool. :-) The table wasn't bad either.
Not to be "THAT GUY" but the wooden door core is a fatal flaw. When you pour wet concrete on wood, the wood will expand as it absorbs the water from the concrete and act like a sponge. If you leave it outside, the cold or the hot sun hitting the concrete will make the wood INSIDE the concrete contract and expand (or contract at different rates than the concrete. That pressure will crack the concrete or create void that will be much weaker in parts of the table. I also worry about freezing and wooden core expanding inside the concrete like a form of ice heave.
You're quite correct and beat me to pointing this out. He'd have been better served using the door (completely waterproofed somehow then drenched in release agent) as part of a form and then removed it. This would fall apart in less than a year in my climate.
Would pouring an exact amount of concrete work to maybe give it space to not crack or how would u avoid that
Nvm I wasn’t watching vid def a different build than I had in mind
Or maybe weld in some smaller bars on the inside lining of the wooden walls maybe give it some support and something to grab on
It's just fine being "that guy" when you are 100% correct and aren't douchey about it, which you weren't...
When he said the door itself wouldn't stand up to the elements, I thought to myself that the concrete actually made things a lot worse...
Concrete shrinks as it cures which is why you had the crack around the perimeter- the door underneath provided restraint against the shrinkage. Maybe if you had a strip of foam rubber around the edge of the door it would not have offered restraint against the shrinkage but the concrete edge would not have been connected to the door edge. I would have continued the mesh tape into the sides too.
How’s this holding up? Thanks for sharing!
I really like the look of this. The pattern reminds me of water swirls on a sandy creek bed or something. A 'calm' but not boring design. And it would be really inexpensive to make, if one could snatch up an old door, about to be discarded. I'll definitely keep this idea in mind!
Cool idea. Min effort, decent results. So, how long did it last ?
Might use rigid foam on plywood instead of the dreaded particle board, but such a good idea using the floor leveller for a super smooth texture. Will it hold up to freezing temps?
Heard about this on the podcast and it really turned out good!!!
I love this so much. Going to watch again.
By any chance do you know if it's cracked over the year it's been out or has it held up well through the elements?
As a skateboarder, im always looking at projects like this and wondering what i can use in making DIY skate obstacles. This is a very interesting idea that i might try with a concrete "ledge". Hopefully itll hold up!
I got one.... make a concrete skateboard and helmet, your welcome.
Very nice. I'd make the slab solid without the cost of the door, and use that saving to buy shredded fiberglass.. mix that directly into the concrete mix and pour that into a mold after applying a face-layer of countertop mix. It'll weigh about the same, then I'd affix the legs directly to the concrete using plugs which I'd reinforce with epoxy. The slab can be as thin as 3/4" and hold 500lbs even if it's twice the size. You can go three times the size of your door if you make the slab 1 inch thick. We're talking boardroom table sized, 1 inch thick concrete slabs that can easily take the weight of a grown man jumping on it.
Fiberglass is soo strong that you can dull an angle-grinder pad in a single cut.
Nice! I remember when @modernbuilds did the same thing in his outdoor kitchen years ago.
Pure genius on making it look like an entire slab & keeping it lightweight!!! Well done Ben. Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!!
you need one of those barista's to pour the concrete like the foam designs on the cappucino
What would we want to buy if not using a door? Thanks for a great video!!
incredible fingerboard table
My mind just got blown! I'm never giving Design Within Reach my money ever again!
I suspect that the wood door expanding and contracting with temperature and humidity changes between night and day will put a significant strain on the concrete. Will it be under a roof? Obviously with this being a video project you weren't able to do this, but in instances where you can let the concrete cure longer, going over it with Water Glass/a concrete densifier before your top coat would help as well and prevent water from seeping through the concrete to penetrate the wood below
your concrete edges will surely eventually pop off from wood expansion and shrinkage..... but ideas about pouring things thicker and popping that door out come to mind.
Any update? Wanting to try this out soon
The most valuable part of this table is the experience of putting it together.
Really cool idea man. I’ll definitely have to incorporate the two tone concrete look at some point
I'm form Pakistan and I loved your videos 🎦🎥📽️📹
Any update on the resilience of this table?
You could screw a bunch of screws in the underlying board and add a mesh so you could bound better the concrete to the board, making the table much more resistant. Great job!
Not a good idea
But could you use this method for an interior countertop?
Has this table lasted?
How's it looking after a year? Any cracks?
I think that polyurethane would have kept it together. It's amazing that you haven't got a response in a year.
How did it work out? I’ve been using micro cement microtech and was thinking there would be a cheaper alternative. You may have found it, but I’m sure that doesn’t come in white.
Great project as always! 👍 Love the way you say Fibahtape. Can't wait to see the next vid!!!
I would think you would want a 1/4 round profile on the edges of the door. A right angle transition to the sides is guaranteed to crack.
nice table, I enjoy these experiments. "plastic tarp" - tarpaulin is the name of the material, not the form of the sheet. You can also use vermiculite as an aggregate if you want to reduce the weight of regular pours by a little, and it adds an interesting rock like texture
Well, expert, why don't you explain to him that bonding to a wooden substrate is the OPPOSITE of what you want to do? Huh? Never heard of mechanical decoupling? SMH Blind leading the blind.
Did you seal the bottom of the door? It seems likely that the wood will bow if you don’t finish both sides.
Very nice and very clean design Ben. Keep making. God bless.
Do you have to apply sealant to the wood before applying wet cement
Interesting, I wonder how well this would work for a kitchen countertop ...
You're better off with a solid concrete countertop. Or, if you currently have laminate, I have seen people just "skim coat" the laminate with concrete.
How has this held up after a year?
It's definitly a bend, this just work well in a small table or something like that, it seems pretty fragile and do not look like able to endure weith at all. However its is cool and gave ideas for other kinds of projects.
What a great idea
What happens with the day night expansion in the long run?
Great video. Such a cool idea. Love Chris' legs. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🐒
Very nice!! Can you add color?
That is nice all in all but what about the door? Did you thoroughly seal the bottom against moisture? If you did not it will absorb moisture from the air or from rain that runs over the side and swell and contract. If that happens your table will soon be nothing but cracks. Making certain that no moisture whatsoever can get into the door from any source and adding fiber reinforcement to the cement and putting stainless steel screws along the edges of the door will go a long way to prevent cracking and holding everything together so someone putting pressure on the edge will not break off a chunk if they press too hard.
Looooove it - will try one in spring for sure
Really cool project
try soaking fabric with cement. add fiber/wire for strength. ferrocement layers with cloth spacers.
I wish this for my kitchen shelving units.
I'm curious what winter outdoor patio set would look like. Heated table would be a plus.
Surely comcrete is porous so water will get to the fiber board which will expand etc. Love the look though. I'd do this for an indoor table. Though if such a thin coat of comcrete is sturdy, then that's how everyone would do their counter tops?
How would this work if I did it on top of a round plastic table, like the ones you find at a rental hall with pretty tablecloths covering them up. Lightweight type. Maybe replace with more sturdy weather proof legs. Should I completely cover plastic with bonding tape? Thx
Definitely should have covered ALL the edges with the fiber tape to help adhere the concrete to the door. This is a great idea, an alternative to using a sheet of thick foam to make lightweight concrete.
I'm wondering how this table held up.
You can use a palm sander to get all the air out , and you can use molding around the edges to leave a round edge too also wire in the slab would make it stronger cool results though for not a lot of cash
Is the water based polyurethane UV resistant since it's an outdoor table? Plus I don't think water based polyurethane is waterproof. This table might need to be covered up when not in use and it will probably continually produce cracks like stucco tends to as the wood expands and contracts with moisture and heat.
So, how is the table doing?
Omg, I just got an even crazier idea. I will use Loctite spray foam as a replacement for the door.
looks amazing!!!!!!!!
If you agitated or mixed the pour when freash wet so you dont get those pour patterns it would be much better....Why did you not do that?
Woww absolutely best idea... 🖤👌🏼💯I am MR SRI channel from Sri Lanka, I like your video as an inspiration for me...Keep going❤👌😍
Mislleading title. This is not lightweight concrete. It's at best a concrete veneer on a door to make a table top.
yeah buddy, lightwaiiiiiitt
It looks a bit cupped. Did the moisture from the concrete warp the door?
Love it!!!
Really really good
Yay, IJessup, and concrete table is nice too.
I love experimentation so I support this wholeheartedly, but I suspect/fear this will not work. It’s basically a cheap door with cheap stucco… and the two materials will shrink and swell differently in the outdoor temperature and moisture conditions and it will pop off, right? Thank you for sharing and please let us know how it works!!
Interested to see how it holds up.
Ben, everything I know about concrete says there is no way this will hold up outside, please do everyone interested a favor and follow up...Thanks
interesting! Will the wood of that door not expand too much when you put it outside, and eventually crack the table?
just found you today, great build xoxo Sandy
Oh thank you!
I can say the results are satisfying. however, it's just me or not, but it doesn't seem balanced. table legs like different height
It looks warped?
How did the table held over time ?
Cool technique. I'm gonna ask you in about a year to see how it fared. Cheers
is it safe for food? i mean if food get in contact with the surface, which is an highly chemical composite, will it hurt me? thanks
All these years and this man still don't use saw horses.
love the creative hybrid use of the materials.... but without sealer, the moisture retention when its used outdoors, will weaken the core... and even with use of fiber tape the edges seem like they could become cracked and broken off easily....
IMHO an epoxy coating would have given it a similar look that would last much longer... and I would have at least eased (ie rounded) the edges in either case...
has a pretty apparent sag.. was that an error when constructing the form?>
Love the result although I would use concrete sealant.
Would have been useful if you'd mentioned how thick the self leveling compuond was?
he said 1/4 inch - and 1/2 inch on the sides
did you seal the bottom of the table?
did that bend ? It seems that middle part is lower than sides (or maybe it is a lense curve or something)
Green is king
Is there a bend or is it just me?
Trying to figure that out myself. I guess the center of the table could have sagged a touch?
It bent because of the moisture in the concrete
Thought the same thing, but wasn’t sure if it’s camera lens distortion
Probably it is prepared without iron cage
Is the water based polyurethane you used the wood finish type or there is one for concrete?