Looking into building some moulded stingless bee hives out of lightweight concrete in Australia. Seems like an interesting option. Might have to do a few test batches to find out the best compromise of strength and weight. Seen some intetesting mixes used for plant pots with coconut coir as a fiber for added strenght.
@@creatingconcrete I wanted to make solid logs of styrocrete, but since watching your videos, I have been leaning towards the use of pumice stone aggregate. I plan to use your advice about brushing or layering in a concrete mix to enhance details before pouring the body of the mix. The logs will not need to be load bearing. At this point, I think I've become a bona fide concrete geek! (Also, thanks for the info about the vegetable glycerin. The folks on the aircrete channels might benefit from learning more about it.)
So many new options in the last few years. One that is intriguing me , from Australia, is wood Crete. Watch the video on trying to shoot rifle rounds through it. Unfortunately they don't give compression/Tension numbers on the product. Also trying to get through the thought process of increasing tension, Rebar and fiberglass are the known products, new products like bamboo ( think Graphite) are also coming out. Big potential issue is building codes.
I'm curious if you've ever experimented with running bundles of fiber optic threads through concrete? I'm thinking about turning some of those novelty dollar store fiber optic lamps into a bookstop and a plant pot.
Did you try this? Curious as well, interesting thought! I think it would be important to "weave" the strands in opposing directions. If they're all oriented in the same way, you're not getting the structural benefits that aggregate provides to cement, meaning you're going to get "splinters" in your concrete corresponding to the "grain" of the fiber optic threads. Good luck! Please let me know 🙂
I'm really interested in Roman concrete that's self-repairing due to being made with unslaked lime. I wonder how well it would do as a 'lightweight" concrete.... and how it'd last as a mailbox post. Recently, I've been toying with the idea of making dry-stacked stone walls with concrete rubble that's usually available for free. A lot of driveway slabs are torn up, and they don't have rebar in them. When you look at the chunks... they resemble a lot of stones out there with the uniform thickness and rough edges. I don't know how economical it'd be to make a lightweight concrete block for stacking, though it certainly would allow you to do a little more in terms of design.
I’m curious if this applies to my specific application, and if you could or would be willing to give me some advice… I’m an architecture student and want to cast concrete into tiny, more complex forms. Considering how light the final products end up, I wonder if heavy aggregates (sand in my case) increase the chance of crumbling under its own weight when moved around? Maybe clay + super plasticizer would produce a light and strong enough material to hold up better than standard mixes at this scale? Thanks for your videos!
Informative.. We are manufacturing AAC blocks using Flyash, Cement, Lime, Gypsum. I want to make it strong by adding some lightweight coarse aggregate. All raw materials being powder tends to produce fine hairline cracks after a month. Curing of blocks is done by Autoclaving at 6.1 bar 155°C pressurized steam. Please suggest..
Do you use fibers? That is what I would be going to first for hairline cracking. I would also look at hydration levels of the mix as perhaps you could benefit from a water reducer or plasticizer to allow you to reach the desired placement viscocity with less water in the mix. In addition to lightweight aggregates which you can explore to add, have you considered a small portion of sharp sand to help create a stronger mechanical interlocking effect. I am unsure of your intended applications and required properties but based on this limited info I would explore a small sand ratio in addition to a lighterweight aggregate pike coarse ground pumice but also perhaps a 1/3 ratio silica fume to add density to the final product. I am picturing a net neutral weight with advanced strength characteristics for both compressive but also tensile strength with the addition of fibers.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thanks for your suggestions. 1. Fibres, Yes we tried PP fibres 50mm long. They proven good for holding material together. Even if we break by throwing high, as material got smashed on ground it breaks but it clings to each other due web of fibres. 2. Plasticizer, We lowered water content using plasticizer. 3. Light weight sand aggregate, we need to look into this.. I tried some sample by using ECA expanded clay, but mix design yet not upto mark.
Have you ever tried diatomaceous earth? And while it is not inexpensive by any means, fumed silica is pretty amazing when it comes to insulation. It blows even vermiculite and perlite out of the water. It is very close to silica aerogel. Have you covered ratios at all?
To be clear, fumed silica and diatomaceous earth are two different things. Using fumed silica could be tricky for a beginner and you'd be forced to use a superplasticizer.
Bonsai pots are what I want to try use cement for. It doesn't need to be super light. But it needs to be fairly strong, and be able to withstand lots of temp and moisture changes. Have you ever tried any organic aggregates, like sphagnum or pete moss? I'd be interested in how Akadama, diatomaceous Earth and turface work as aggregates.
How do these lightweight concretes handle freezing and thawing? I’m in a northern climate and want to make some funky planters but worry about them breaking in our cold winters.
Thank you for posting these highly informative videos. I am looking for a lightweight concrete mix for a floating mantel shelf. Any suggestions. I like the idea of vermiculite s added thermal value
Hi! Super awesome channel! Very educational! I'm currently designing a concrete fountain/planter and value the color, porosity, lightweight, and texture (as smooth as I can get it without it being heavy). Do you have any tips for this? Thanks!!
Oh, And I love those face containers, they're so cool. What type of Portland cement should I get if I wanted to make containers and or flower pots? type 1-11 or type 11 there are so many? Thanks again
Type of cement depends on where you are. Type 1 in many areas is type normal. In my area type 10 is normal. So better to ask for type normal / type general use portland cement.
Howdy how! You mentioned the dish soap or Drexel 160 stabilized with vegetable glycerin. What amount of glycerin? With either dish soap or Drexel? Many blessings. 👽🐍
Steve, excellent subject matter. What about the Spanish roof tiles? Here in the Philippines we've made our own from the normal mix and beef up the building structure to handle the extra weight - which is still not smart given the active seismic area we're in. But, we also have typhoons which make the permanent structures more desirable. I've experimented with light weight concrete mixes but am still disappointed because they're so weak. You have renewed my commitment to continue my research. Thanks so much for this channel - I really appreciate it!!
Also, for this Spanish barrel-tile design, we're using a vibrating table under a reverse, pre-cast concrete mold that creates a very smooth top surface. The problem with the lightweight concrete is that they crack when walked on with little brown feet. We don't need super strength - just enough protection from a wind-driven coconut or tree branch making a visit to our tropical paradise at 120mph . I think something like the 4 to 1 Perlite mix will do. However, the red Volcanic fine-grained rock here in the Western Visayas is plentiful, although heavier than the Perlite fine grains at x1.9. However, using the larger Volcanic grains (pea gravel size) reduces the weight to 1.45 of Perlite (same mass). We'll be testing this next. The normal sand here is 8.9x the weight of Perlite. One cool attribute of the Volcanic rock is that it gives more of the Spanish "red" to the tiles. Thanks for the inspiration!
I am planning to make some modular lightweight raised beds like the UA-camr MAN about TOOLS. I'm 62 now and would like to have some 24"x6"x2" and 36"x6"x2" modules that can be attacked 3-4 rows high that can hold all that soil/bedding. I know aircrete won't work because it cracks easily, and a weed wacker can cut right into it. I would like to use quicklime instead of concrete to make a type of Roman concrete that can heal itself when water gets into any cracks. Eventually, if it works as well as I hope it will, I may make my driveway with Roman Concrete because I live in Maine, and the freeze/thaw cycle cracks any kind of driveway. I'm also looking for ratios (i.e., recipes) for different strengths. Any help in future videos would be gratefully appreciated.
Subscribed! Just before discovering your channel, found Marek Kubi on YT... he mentioned that AAC light weight concrete was made from a mix of sand, portland cement, LIME, GYPSUM, and ALUMINUM powder (creates air bubbles). It would be cool if you made a video on this mix (pros & cons,etc). Hope you do, thanks.
I just read at the Pumice Store that pumice is composed primarily of aluminum silicate; pumice is a naturally calcined volcanic glass foam consisting of highly vesicular strands permeated with tiny air bubbles. The price and availability is attractive.
I guess you should investigate the cost effectiveness of premixed lightweight products. For example, some of the sakrete concretes are advertised as lighter
Yes I suppose. In general I have not use prebagged anything for concrete mixes is 20 years. Long since have transitioned to making my own mix designs with base materials for pennies on the dollar.
Some things are and some things are not. Why? Because everything that is not can't be. Everything that isn't, is...I was aiming for lightweight concrete made of foam but instead created a singularity.
Interested in seeing "StyroCreat" can you do a segment on that? Curious to get your expertise... BTW. I'm subscriber 799 and binging your lightweight play list. Bravo. Suspect You will be a $ successful $ youtube content creator. Keep up the good work
I have filmed a few already but nothing has made it to the final cut yet. I built the foam generation gun and made some aircrete but none of the test panels made it to the strength test day. They all cracked and failed. Could be 1" panel on a 28" span is too much for aircrete but I will keep trying to get a panel we can actually strength test. Is this what you meant by styrocrete? Or do you mean actual chipped styrofoam in the mix? I would certainly prefer a perlite to styrofoam based on how it interacts with water. Finished results should be very similar to polystyrene beads
Hi Steve, thanks for the video. I make concrete pots using molds. I made one the other day with 1 part recycled polyurethane foam from CNC surfboard shaping and 2 parts cement. The foam comes in small approx 3mm fluffy particles. When demoling, the pot held its shape and appears strong. How do you know that the pot won't collapse or crumble over time with these lightweight aggregate? Do you think the foam from the CNC machine is an OK aggregate? I can send you some pictures of it if you like. Thanks Steve!
It is probably fine. Time will tell how it ages. I like to soak mine, freeze them, leave them in the sun for a summer etc. all to help determine how long / how well they last
Man I wish we could get together and have a beer 🤗I have a roof deck project been working on for the last 3 years what I want is to pour lightweight concrete for the final. Great video you got my brain cranking 🤗🏋️♀️👍🤞🤺☦️
Thanks for this really insightful video! I was wondering, I want to make terrazzo with concrete. So my best bet would be the white cementmix with perlite. Would you still get a nice smooth surface with the perlite mix? Or would white sand be better in this case?
The aggregate to cement ratio will determine how the surface profile works. 2:1 perlite to cement should probably consolidate and finish well due to the high cement ratio. Any higher aggregate ratio and I think you have a textured surface profile. If you add even a small amount of sand to this mix it will drastically increase the strength, but also the weight.
I would just like to make an indoor planter, That I can set on shelves and then water W/O breaking my shelves down. Oh and candle containers, I love making candles. Do you have a recipe that won't poison me If I use them in my home? Thank you
Can I get your recommendation for a kids project that needs to be smooth on top the bottom will be in the ground and I’d like to put a rod to stand it up. I think the white concrete and white perlite is a great option because I want to color it but any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you Sheila
I want to make some lawn concrete edging using molds to form a decorative block approximately 4”x5”x 23”. I have considered using old, clean styrofoam meat trays cut into ¼" pieces as an aggregate to decrease the weight. Is this a good idea? Are there ratios to consider? Would Quikcrete crack resistant concrete mix be suitable for this purpose?
I would not use that styrofoam as it very well could compromise the mix. Better to use perlite or vermiculite if you want to make the mix a lighter weight product.
This is so exciting, in my search for possibilities for a sculpture modeling medium, especially up against materials sold on art websites; the price can be astronomical; e.g.Amaco Sculptamold is now $111 for 50 pounds + xtra shipping, & worse yet, it does not even give great results, being all lumpy. It's like a paper pulp papermache + glue & plaster. Pottery Clay, is awesome, if you can rewire your American house for an expensive 220V kiln; plus it is heavy like concrete. Plaster is fragile & heavy. So I see great hope with some concoction of modified concrete (+ plasticizer, acrylic or pva, + metal or fibers, etc), plus trying various hard coating/ paint/ polyurethane on top, to add rigidity (along with an armature). I also have ideas of ways to strengthen it. [I was turned off Foamcrete = lightest; it sounds great, until I saw video of a couple who 'tried & tried' working with it, building their own house. It started great, but they couldn't get consistent results- they showed running a finger across a block gave crumbling, like you'd see with dirt or unfired clay. I think I'm going with the recommendation of vermiculite seen in "Creating Concrete" videos. Thoughts on this application?
Pumice would be awesome if it were available at a good price; it's over $20 for a small gallon milk size jug; while I can get a huge 1.5 cu ft bag of vermiculite for $15.
Steve, you have answered soo many of my questions. You are awesome! My question is how durable would a concrete planter about 12" in height be if I used white cement, perlite and pigment powder or acrylic paint? Thanks !
Hi, good informative stuff. iI am looking for a design mix for lightweight concrete, on a plywood floor receiving tile. The floor has been designed for the weight with joist 12" O.C. the depth is 1 1/2"- 2" The area is 7'0"x 20'0" thx
Hi Steve thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I would like to design 3.5'-4'ft artificial Christmas trees in decorative vases/containers that will be shipped. I am concern with shipping cost; therefore, I am thinking a lightweight concrete as part of the base would help with the cost and to balance them so they couldn't be easily toppled over in the event they used outside on a patio. What combination of products would you recommend using in the bottom of the container? Thanks
The cost of a lightweight concrete along with risk of breaking makes me think full strength concrete or mortar, but just less of it. Sand and cement is so inexpensive any switch to lightweight aggregate will be many times more expensive, even though it is a small amount, it will still be a significant cost increase. I also have experienced the woes of shipping concrete based products, but negotiating on better rates is the best advice I can give. That and using a reliably strong concrete to ensure the least breakage possible
@@creatingconcrete Interesting? A "reliably strong concrete". Were you thinking hydrolic cements with different psis up to 20k or do you have a video on regular concrete's and their strengths ( in psi I'm assuming)? Would love to hear pros and cons of different cements, and perhaps another on hydrolic cement if not the same vid. TY again!
Hello Steve thank you for this video it has been very helpful but if you don’t mind this is my first try at this . I would like to make these cylinders from a 12x4 concrete form for Halloween . They will be use to hold up a piece of plywood to set up a prop. What would you use please? I also want to paint them orange because they will look like pumpkins and I will be adding lighting inside. They will be on a porch but still want to seal a bit but need them light weight and a bit sturdy to hold some board pieces because it will be set up like a table holding potions for a witch prop.
I did not really understand your description of the application, but any concrete that needs to hold something else up needs to be suitably strong, which to me means it can not be a true lightweight concrete. You need sand. Now perhaps 50% of your sand you can replace with damp perlite. This will give you a lighter product, but not a ton lighter. It will be strong still because of the sand content. Something like 1 part type normal portland cement mixed with 1.5 parts sand and 1.5 parts damp perlite. Let cure fully and then paint with watered down acrylic paints. Multiple layers for brighter colors, and then seal with an acrylic concrete sealer.
@@creatingconcrete thank you I appreciate that. my apologies on the description of the application wasn’t clear. So I want to take a 12 inch width by 4ft concrete tube form and cut out a pumpkin face then cover it in a light weight concrete but it will be hollow inside so I can put some lights in it. But sturdy enough to put a piece of wood on it for a table prop. Wish I could insert a photo so I could show you. I will try what you requested in your previous message. Thank you so much!! God bless.
I like to have some information. We are in process of making a lightweight concrete block of 30×60×10cm. We use now styro but still to heavy. What can i use best to get less weight and what is a good mix ratio?
Lighter than styrofoam would be aircrete / foamcrete or even more lightweight aggregate and less cement. But I have to wonder about how strong you need the finished product to be. Aircrete is so weak in my experience but maybe an aircrete slurry mixed with your styrofoam to increase the bulk of yield and lower the total weight.
I'd like to make huge planter vessels that are 5 feet in height and 2-3 feet in diameter. I know I'll have to use some reinforcing material. I'm looking for that sweet spot between strength and weight and also, if possible, something with a uniform surface that will take on a 'patina' of alkaline loving lichens (or moss if it likes that surface). Basically, I want to make huge planters that look like they're made of straight concrete but if possible avoid the huge weight w/o sacrificing too much strength.
I have made things like this. First question, are they needing to move or can they be built in place? Or perhaps built off site and moved in place one time...the amount of portability will affect your choice of best material and process. Ideally, something this large you build in the permanent home location. The steel will be so strong already that the concrete layer is almost redundant, strength wise. The mix I would use would involve vermiculite for sure. It compresses under the trowel and with a high cement ratio the mix is creamy and accepts detail cuts and texture supremely well. You could possibly move it, but it would develop cracking. It does not affect the total strength to have spider cracking. As for the moss look, you can create (encourage this). Find moss growing naturally and put some in a bottle of water and shake it up. Spray that repeatedly onto the areas you want moss to grow. Give it the right conditions and it will go. It happens on its own to my older pieces once they become more porous and start to retain water. If you encourage it along it will happen I am sure.
I am not sure, I tend towards using full strength and weight mortars much more so than lightweight. The failure rate of lightweight projects is so high in general versus the stronger stuff.
Lightweight usually means less dense. And density aids in waterproofing, so there would need to be a serious modification to the mix to make it more waterproof. Even crystalline growing products like xypex or others will struggle to decrease the porosity of a lightweight mix. I suspect a densely consolidated mix using a high cement ratio and compressable aggregate like vermiculite might product good results when combined with a heavy polymer dose in the mix, but I would be worried about a) cost and b) longevity of the product. What about a paint on membrane like Redgard or Laticrete hydroban perhaps? A waterproof skin to a lightweight concrete.
I am looking at making raised beds from concrete using the mold from MAN about TOOLS, ua-cam.com/video/ddedMmuj7xY/v-deo.html&pp=ygUobGlnaHQgd2VpZ2h0IGNvbmNyZXRlIHJhaXNlZCBnYXJkZW4gYmVkLg%3D%3D. I was wanting to add fibers, PVA and metal wire. Using a ratio of 1 part portland, 1 part sand and 3 parts perlite or vermiculite. I live in an area that during winter reaches -5. So with the cold, water and strength needed. Does this look like a viable mix? Or is there a better mix you could see for this particular application. Also, thank you Steve for your time and effort in making concrete less of a mystery. I have watched many video’s from you. And will recommend you to anyone I may meet.
I would add 10% liquid acrylic to that mix also to help reduce water permeability. I would also use vermiculite over perlite, and if you can find it a fine grade verm would be best
Both of these are examples of alternative aggregates for making lightweight concrete, but the organic nature of paper and the resistance to water permeation of the foam make these less than ideal aggregates. Yes they would still produce concrete like results, but likely superior aggregates are available. It would depend on what you are making. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks from korea republic. Best teacher ever.
Thank you! I hope you find this content helpful
Please make a sample for every mixture that you explain. Thankyou !
Looking into building some moulded stingless bee hives out of lightweight concrete in Australia. Seems like an interesting option. Might have to do a few test batches to find out the best compromise of strength and weight. Seen some intetesting mixes used for plant pots with coconut coir as a fiber for added strenght.
Great video! I'll be making lightweight logs. Some tips on finishing them might make for a cool video. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the feedback. Are your logs going to be hollow or solid?
@@creatingconcrete I wanted to make solid logs of styrocrete, but since watching your videos, I have been leaning towards the use of pumice stone aggregate. I plan to use your advice about brushing or layering in a concrete mix to enhance details before pouring the body of the mix. The logs will not need to be load bearing. At this point, I think I've become a bona fide concrete geek! (Also, thanks for the info about the vegetable glycerin. The folks on the aircrete channels might benefit from learning more about it.)
So many new options in the last few years. One that is intriguing me , from Australia, is wood Crete. Watch the video on trying to shoot rifle rounds through it. Unfortunately they don't give compression/Tension numbers on the product. Also trying to get through the thought process of increasing tension, Rebar and fiberglass are the known products, new products like bamboo ( think Graphite) are also coming out. Big potential issue is building codes.
Definitely lots of good, new options even including self healing concrete! Thanks for commenting. Cheers.
I'm curious if you've ever experimented with running bundles of fiber optic threads through concrete?
I'm thinking about turning some of those novelty dollar store fiber optic lamps into a bookstop and a plant pot.
Did you try this? Curious as well, interesting thought! I think it would be important to "weave" the strands in opposing directions. If they're all oriented in the same way, you're not getting the structural benefits that aggregate provides to cement, meaning you're going to get "splinters" in your concrete corresponding to the "grain" of the fiber optic threads. Good luck! Please let me know 🙂
I would like to make a bee bath with light weight concrete. Would it be waterproof?
I'm really interested in Roman concrete that's self-repairing due to being made with unslaked lime. I wonder how well it would do as a 'lightweight" concrete.... and how it'd last as a mailbox post. Recently, I've been toying with the idea of making dry-stacked stone walls with concrete rubble that's usually available for free. A lot of driveway slabs are torn up, and they don't have rebar in them. When you look at the chunks... they resemble a lot of stones out there with the uniform thickness and rough edges. I don't know how economical it'd be to make a lightweight concrete block for stacking, though it certainly would allow you to do a little more in terms of design.
I’m curious if this applies to my specific application, and if you could or would be willing to give me some advice… I’m an architecture student and want to cast concrete into tiny, more complex forms. Considering how light the final products end up, I wonder if heavy aggregates (sand in my case) increase the chance of crumbling under its own weight when moved around? Maybe clay + super plasticizer would produce a light and strong enough material to hold up better than standard mixes at this scale? Thanks for your videos!
Informative..
We are manufacturing AAC blocks using Flyash, Cement, Lime, Gypsum. I want to make it strong by adding some lightweight coarse aggregate. All raw materials being powder tends to produce fine hairline cracks after a month. Curing of blocks is done by Autoclaving at 6.1 bar 155°C pressurized steam.
Please suggest..
Do you use fibers? That is what I would be going to first for hairline cracking. I would also look at hydration levels of the mix as perhaps you could benefit from a water reducer or plasticizer to allow you to reach the desired placement viscocity with less water in the mix. In addition to lightweight aggregates which you can explore to add, have you considered a small portion of sharp sand to help create a stronger mechanical interlocking effect. I am unsure of your intended applications and required properties but based on this limited info I would explore a small sand ratio in addition to a lighterweight aggregate pike coarse ground pumice but also perhaps a 1/3 ratio silica fume to add density to the final product. I am picturing a net neutral weight with advanced strength characteristics for both compressive but also tensile strength with the addition of fibers.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thanks for your suggestions.
1. Fibres, Yes we tried PP fibres 50mm long. They proven good for holding material together. Even if we break by throwing high, as material got smashed on ground it breaks but it clings to each other due web of fibres.
2. Plasticizer, We lowered water content using plasticizer.
3. Light weight sand aggregate, we need to look into this.. I tried some sample by using ECA expanded clay, but mix design yet not upto mark.
Expanded clay or Lytag generally work best - depends where u are located though on what’s available
Have you ever tried diatomaceous earth? And while it is not inexpensive by any means, fumed silica is pretty amazing when it comes to insulation. It blows even vermiculite and perlite out of the water. It is very close to silica aerogel.
Have you covered ratios at all?
To be clear, fumed silica and diatomaceous earth are two different things. Using fumed silica could be tricky for a beginner and you'd be forced to use a superplasticizer.
I have found that saltillo tile grout is a very inexpensive colorant for concrete.
Bonsai pots are what I want to try use cement for. It doesn't need to be super light. But it needs to be fairly strong, and be able to withstand lots of temp and moisture changes.
Have you ever tried any organic aggregates, like sphagnum or pete moss?
I'd be interested in how Akadama, diatomaceous Earth and turface work as aggregates.
I started making bonsai pots also and have the same question
Perlit ,Flyash, Cement,Sand and soapFoam is the best Formula for Light Concrete,
no admixtures like PVA, water reducer, acrylic/latex or fibers? I would think the best lightweight formula might include some of those.
How do these lightweight concretes handle freezing and thawing? I’m in a northern climate and want to make some funky planters but worry about them breaking in our cold winters.
Thank you for posting these highly informative videos. I am looking for a lightweight concrete mix for a floating mantel shelf. Any suggestions. I like the idea of vermiculite s added thermal value
Hi! Super awesome channel! Very educational! I'm currently designing a concrete fountain/planter and value the color, porosity, lightweight, and texture (as smooth as I can get it without it being heavy). Do you have any tips for this? Thanks!!
Oh, And I love those face containers, they're so cool. What type of Portland cement should I get if I wanted to make containers and or flower pots? type 1-11 or type 11 there are so many? Thanks again
Type of cement depends on where you are. Type 1 in many areas is type normal. In my area type 10 is normal. So better to ask for type normal / type general use portland cement.
Could you please test all samples for thermal conductivity?
what would the ideal test look like for this that you would want to see?
Howdy how!
You mentioned the dish soap or Drexel 160 stabilized with vegetable glycerin. What amount of glycerin? With either dish soap or Drexel?
Many blessings. 👽🐍
Steve, excellent subject matter. What about the Spanish roof tiles? Here in the Philippines we've made our own from the normal mix and beef up the building structure to handle the extra weight - which is still not smart given the active seismic area we're in. But, we also have typhoons which make the permanent structures more desirable. I've experimented with light weight concrete mixes but am still disappointed because they're so weak. You have renewed my commitment to continue my research. Thanks so much for this channel - I really appreciate it!!
Also, for this Spanish barrel-tile design, we're using a vibrating table under a reverse, pre-cast concrete mold that creates a very smooth top surface. The problem with the lightweight concrete is that they crack when walked on with little brown feet. We don't need super strength - just enough protection from a wind-driven coconut or tree branch making a visit to our tropical paradise at 120mph . I think something like the 4 to 1 Perlite mix will do. However, the red Volcanic fine-grained rock here in the Western Visayas is plentiful, although heavier than the Perlite fine grains at x1.9. However, using the larger Volcanic grains (pea gravel size) reduces the weight to 1.45 of Perlite (same mass). We'll be testing this next. The normal sand here is 8.9x the weight of Perlite. One cool attribute of the Volcanic rock is that it gives more of the Spanish "red" to the tiles. Thanks for the inspiration!
I am planning to make some modular lightweight raised beds like the UA-camr MAN about TOOLS. I'm 62 now and would like to have some 24"x6"x2" and 36"x6"x2" modules that can be attacked 3-4 rows high that can hold all that soil/bedding. I know aircrete won't work because it cracks easily, and a weed wacker can cut right into it. I would like to use quicklime instead of concrete to make a type of Roman concrete that can heal itself when water gets into any cracks. Eventually, if it works as well as I hope it will, I may make my driveway with Roman Concrete because I live in Maine, and the freeze/thaw cycle cracks any kind of driveway. I'm also looking for ratios (i.e., recipes) for different strengths. Any help in future videos would be gratefully appreciated.
Someday, they should explore using insect exoskeletons. Supposedly, some insect exoskeletons are very solid relative to their weight.
Subscribed! Just before discovering your channel, found Marek Kubi on YT... he mentioned that AAC light weight concrete was made from a mix of sand, portland cement, LIME, GYPSUM, and ALUMINUM powder (creates air bubbles). It would be cool if you made a video on this mix (pros & cons,etc). Hope you do, thanks.
I just read at the Pumice Store that pumice is composed primarily of aluminum silicate; pumice is a naturally calcined volcanic glass foam consisting of highly vesicular strands permeated with tiny air bubbles. The price and availability is attractive.
Fresh video. Love it
Are there any other light weight materials for making concrete under testing
I guess you should investigate the cost effectiveness of premixed lightweight products. For example, some of the sakrete concretes are advertised as lighter
Yes I suppose. In general I have not use prebagged anything for concrete mixes is 20 years. Long since have transitioned to making my own mix designs with base materials for pennies on the dollar.
can you combine pumice and vermiculite ?
I am making a pizza oven and i wonder if vermiculite would be better than perlite
😂 whoa that got like deep and introspective real quick 😂 and yet I understood. Great video thank you
Some things are and some things are not. Why? Because everything that is not can't be. Everything that isn't, is...I was aiming for lightweight concrete made of foam but instead created a singularity.
@@creatingconcrete 😂😂❤️👍 you’re great. Keep going. Great video!
Interested in seeing "StyroCreat" can you do a segment on that?
Curious to get your expertise...
BTW. I'm subscriber 799 and binging your lightweight play list.
Bravo. Suspect You will be a $ successful $ youtube content creator. Keep up the good work
I have filmed a few already but nothing has made it to the final cut yet. I built the foam generation gun and made some aircrete but none of the test panels made it to the strength test day. They all cracked and failed. Could be 1" panel on a 28" span is too much for aircrete but I will keep trying to get a panel we can actually strength test. Is this what you meant by styrocrete? Or do you mean actual chipped styrofoam in the mix? I would certainly prefer a perlite to styrofoam based on how it interacts with water. Finished results should be very similar to polystyrene beads
What about straw? Like they use in adobe blocks?
Have you tried adding Haydite?
Hi Steve, thanks for the video. I make concrete pots using molds. I made one the other day with 1 part recycled polyurethane foam from CNC surfboard shaping and 2 parts cement. The foam comes in small approx 3mm fluffy particles. When demoling, the pot held its shape and appears strong. How do you know that the pot won't collapse or crumble over time with these lightweight aggregate? Do you think the foam from the CNC machine is an OK aggregate? I can send you some pictures of it if you like. Thanks Steve!
It is probably fine. Time will tell how it ages. I like to soak mine, freeze them, leave them in the sun for a summer etc. all to help determine how long / how well they last
That's great to hear thanks so much Steve!
Man I wish we could get together and have a beer 🤗I have a roof deck project been working on for the last 3 years what I want is to pour lightweight concrete for the final. Great video you got my brain cranking 🤗🏋️♀️👍🤞🤺☦️
Thanks for this really insightful video! I was wondering, I want to make terrazzo with concrete. So my best bet would be the white cementmix with perlite. Would you still get a nice smooth surface with the perlite mix? Or would white sand be better in this case?
The aggregate to cement ratio will determine how the surface profile works. 2:1 perlite to cement should probably consolidate and finish well due to the high cement ratio. Any higher aggregate ratio and I think you have a textured surface profile. If you add even a small amount of sand to this mix it will drastically increase the strength, but also the weight.
can light weight concrete be drilled into or will it crack? Also can you use Marble dust as an aggregate instead of sand?
Hi dear, i need a mixdesign for making a non structural concrete with density of under 800 kg per cubic meter, please help me if you have any ideas .
To make a lightweight cement wood stove would I use vermiculite, pumice stone, or none of the above?
I would just like to make an indoor planter, That I can set on shelves and then water W/O breaking my shelves down. Oh and candle containers, I love making candles. Do you have a recipe that won't poison me If I use them in my home? Thank you
Concrete is not ideal for plant pots inside the home as concrete is porous and will leech water unfortunately.
@@creatingconcrete ok, Thank you
Can I get your recommendation for a kids project that needs to be smooth on top the bottom will be in the ground and I’d like to put a rod to stand it up. I think the white concrete and white perlite is a great option because I want to color it but any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you Sheila
Am engineering student doing civil,can you please give me and interesting idea on structures i do it as my final Year project
I want to make some lawn concrete edging using molds to form a decorative block approximately 4”x5”x 23”. I have considered using old, clean styrofoam meat trays cut into ¼" pieces as an aggregate to decrease the weight. Is this a good idea? Are there ratios to consider? Would Quikcrete crack resistant concrete mix be suitable for this purpose?
I would not use that styrofoam as it very well could compromise the mix. Better to use perlite or vermiculite if you want to make the mix a lighter weight product.
This is so exciting, in my search for possibilities for a sculpture modeling medium, especially up against materials sold on art websites; the price can be astronomical; e.g.Amaco Sculptamold is now $111 for 50 pounds + xtra shipping, & worse yet, it does not even give great results, being all lumpy. It's like a paper pulp papermache + glue & plaster. Pottery Clay, is awesome, if you can rewire your American house for an expensive 220V kiln; plus it is heavy like concrete. Plaster is fragile & heavy. So I see great hope with some concoction of modified concrete (+ plasticizer, acrylic or pva, + metal or fibers, etc), plus trying various hard coating/ paint/ polyurethane on top, to add rigidity (along with an armature). I also have ideas of ways to strengthen it. [I was turned off Foamcrete = lightest; it sounds great, until I saw video of a couple who 'tried & tried' working with it, building their own house. It started great, but they couldn't get consistent results- they showed running a finger across a block gave crumbling, like you'd see with dirt or unfired clay. I think I'm going with the recommendation of vermiculite seen in "Creating Concrete" videos. Thoughts on this application?
Pumice would be awesome if it were available at a good price; it's over $20 for a small gallon milk size jug; while I can get a huge 1.5 cu ft bag of vermiculite for $15.
Ever used paper create?
Good video
Steve, you have answered soo many of my questions. You are awesome!
My question is how durable would a concrete planter about 12" in height be if I used white cement, perlite and pigment powder or acrylic paint? Thanks !
Seems to me Pumice stone will also provide the most strength of the lightweight aggrigates.
Can you use shaving cream?
In theory, yes you can use shaving cream as the aggregate in aircrete
Hi, good informative stuff. iI am looking for a design mix for lightweight concrete, on a plywood floor receiving tile. The floor has been designed for the weight with joist 12" O.C. the depth is 1 1/2"- 2" The area is 7'0"x 20'0" thx
You need gypsum, sand mixed with level rock 2500
How about homemade concrete conutertops?
I like full strength, full weight mix designs for countertops. You really want the density and strength.
Hi Steve thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I would like to design 3.5'-4'ft artificial Christmas trees in decorative vases/containers that will be shipped. I am concern with shipping cost; therefore, I am thinking a lightweight concrete as part of the base would help with the cost and to balance them so they couldn't be easily toppled over in the event they used outside on a patio. What combination of products would you recommend using in the bottom of the container? Thanks
The cost of a lightweight concrete along with risk of breaking makes me think full strength concrete or mortar, but just less of it. Sand and cement is so inexpensive any switch to lightweight aggregate will be many times more expensive, even though it is a small amount, it will still be a significant cost increase. I also have experienced the woes of shipping concrete based products, but negotiating on better rates is the best advice I can give. That and using a reliably strong concrete to ensure the least breakage possible
@@creatingconcrete Interesting? A "reliably strong concrete". Were you thinking hydrolic cements with different psis up to 20k or do you have a video on regular concrete's and their strengths ( in psi I'm assuming)? Would love to hear pros and cons of different cements, and perhaps another on hydrolic cement if not the same vid. TY again!
What is the best aggregate mix to make lightweight vegetable planters?
I like vermiculite because it holds moisture so well and helps the planter to stop from drying out so quickly.
Hello Steve thank you for this video it has been very helpful but if you don’t mind this is my first try at this . I would like to make these cylinders from a 12x4 concrete form for Halloween . They will be use to hold up a piece of plywood to set up a prop. What would you use please? I also want to paint them orange because they will look like pumpkins and I will be adding lighting inside. They will be on a porch but still want to seal a bit but need them light weight and a bit sturdy to hold some board pieces because it will be set up like a table holding potions for a witch prop.
I did not really understand your description of the application, but any concrete that needs to hold something else up needs to be suitably strong, which to me means it can not be a true lightweight concrete. You need sand. Now perhaps 50% of your sand you can replace with damp perlite. This will give you a lighter product, but not a ton lighter. It will be strong still because of the sand content. Something like 1 part type normal portland cement mixed with 1.5 parts sand and 1.5 parts damp perlite. Let cure fully and then paint with watered down acrylic paints. Multiple layers for brighter colors, and then seal with an acrylic concrete sealer.
@@creatingconcrete thank you I appreciate that. my apologies on the description of the application wasn’t clear. So I want to take a 12 inch width by 4ft concrete tube form and cut out a pumpkin face then cover it in a light weight concrete but it will be hollow inside so I can put some lights in it. But sturdy enough to put a piece of wood on it for a table prop. Wish I could insert a photo so I could show you. I will try what you requested in your previous message. Thank you so much!! God bless.
I like to have some information. We are in process of making a lightweight concrete block of 30×60×10cm. We use now styro but still to heavy. What can i use best to get less weight and what is a good mix ratio?
Lighter than styrofoam would be aircrete / foamcrete or even more lightweight aggregate and less cement. But I have to wonder about how strong you need the finished product to be. Aircrete is so weak in my experience but maybe an aircrete slurry mixed with your styrofoam to increase the bulk of yield and lower the total weight.
@@creatingconcrete is perlite better/stronger option?
I'd like to make huge planter vessels that are 5 feet in height and 2-3 feet in diameter. I know I'll have to use some reinforcing material.
I'm looking for that sweet spot between strength and weight and also, if possible, something with a uniform surface that will take on a 'patina' of alkaline loving lichens (or moss if it likes that surface). Basically, I want to make huge planters that look like they're made of straight concrete but if possible avoid the huge weight w/o sacrificing too much strength.
I have made things like this. First question, are they needing to move or can they be built in place? Or perhaps built off site and moved in place one time...the amount of portability will affect your choice of best material and process. Ideally, something this large you build in the permanent home location. The steel will be so strong already that the concrete layer is almost redundant, strength wise. The mix I would use would involve vermiculite for sure. It compresses under the trowel and with a high cement ratio the mix is creamy and accepts detail cuts and texture supremely well. You could possibly move it, but it would develop cracking. It does not affect the total strength to have spider cracking. As for the moss look, you can create (encourage this). Find moss growing naturally and put some in a bottle of water and shake it up. Spray that repeatedly onto the areas you want moss to grow. Give it the right conditions and it will go. It happens on its own to my older pieces once they become more porous and start to retain water. If you encourage it along it will happen I am sure.
Hi Steve, I’m planning to make an aquarium coffee table out of lightweight concrete. Which aggregate do you advice me to use?
Po: cool videos!
I am not sure, I tend towards using full strength and weight mortars much more so than lightweight. The failure rate of lightweight projects is so high in general versus the stronger stuff.
But I request you to make waterproof Lightweight Concrete Formula , please make waterproof Lightweight Concrete Research
Lightweight usually means less dense. And density aids in waterproofing, so there would need to be a serious modification to the mix to make it more waterproof. Even crystalline growing products like xypex or others will struggle to decrease the porosity of a lightweight mix. I suspect a densely consolidated mix using a high cement ratio and compressable aggregate like vermiculite might product good results when combined with a heavy polymer dose in the mix, but I would be worried about a) cost and b) longevity of the product. What about a paint on membrane like Redgard or Laticrete hydroban perhaps? A waterproof skin to a lightweight concrete.
Too bad...it looked interesting, but it did NOT put subtitles. Saludos.
I am looking at making raised beds from concrete using the mold from MAN about TOOLS, ua-cam.com/video/ddedMmuj7xY/v-deo.html&pp=ygUobGlnaHQgd2VpZ2h0IGNvbmNyZXRlIHJhaXNlZCBnYXJkZW4gYmVkLg%3D%3D.
I was wanting to add fibers, PVA and metal wire. Using a ratio of 1 part portland, 1 part sand and 3 parts perlite or vermiculite. I live in an area that during winter reaches -5. So with the cold, water and strength needed. Does this look like a viable mix? Or is there a better mix you could see for this particular application.
Also, thank you Steve for your time and effort in making concrete less of a mystery. I have watched many video’s from you. And will recommend you to anyone I may meet.
I would add 10% liquid acrylic to that mix also to help reduce water permeability. I would also use vermiculite over perlite, and if you can find it a fine grade verm would be best
I was expecting to see recycled paper, either shredded or pulped. There is also the idea of using shredded styrofoam. Just sayin'
Both of these are examples of alternative aggregates for making lightweight concrete, but the organic nature of paper and the resistance to water permeation of the foam make these less than ideal aggregates. Yes they would still produce concrete like results, but likely superior aggregates are available. It would depend on what you are making. Thanks for commenting.