@@Swimmingpoolsteve I've been trying to learn about concrete, cement, and refractories for a while on here. It's hard to get men to talk about this stuff with me in real life, so UA-cam can be really helpful. I found you because I want to make a small plunge for aquatic physical therapy. You've already increased my knowledge in ways that will help me avoid costly mistakes. I found him because I wanted to better understand different types concrete.
Thanks Steve. These videos have been a game changer. I’m about to do what you warned about. I’m going to do my own waterline tile. I have a pool contractor doing the demo and re-plaster but I’m doing the tile, plumbing, electrical, and deck surface on a 1960’s Blue Haven gunite in ground.
Would the 'glue/silicone' stuff make a decent "mortar" for building with concrete bricks? Normally you'd just use a mortar between bricks. But that's kinda an old-new-old layering. I kinda wonder if bonding might be better?
Hi Steve, I want to put pavers around the pool and pour concrete to the pavers, Do I need any thing in between? Or can I pour right to the pavers? The pavers will be glued down to the steel walls. Thanks
Hi there. Great content. I have a question. I have a double garage and I want to add some concrete to the old pad to raise up a section that has dropped. I tried this once before already and the new concrete completely detached and broke apart. My question is how/when to add the concrete after applying the bonding slurry. Do you let it dry then add? Or "paint" it on and immediately add?
How thick is the new concrete going to be? You really want to use steel hardware to pin the new area to the old in addition to a bonding slurry (and apply new mud before the slurry dries)
@@ajjenga4316 you cannot zero or featehr edge concrete. Even heavily modified concrete will be 1/4" minimum. 1/2" for unmodified and it would be easy to have that fail even. For anything 2" or more I would install hardware into the existing slab and tie new steel to that.
This has been a stressful process getting quotes to repair my steps. I have contactors telling me that it's ok to put concrete on concrete without any type of bonding to change the depth of my steps. Feeling lost
A bonding slurry is important especially for thin overlay applications, where if I were adding something thicker like 2" or more I would want steel pinning / dowels into the old concrete to help anchor the two together.
I've watched a lot of Tyler Lay's videos. It's incredibly helpful to see you using what he's talked about in actual practice.
I found his stuff when someone "accused" me of being him lol.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve I've been trying to learn about concrete, cement, and refractories for a while on here. It's hard to get men to talk about this stuff with me in real life, so UA-cam can be really helpful.
I found you because I want to make a small plunge for aquatic physical therapy. You've already increased my knowledge in ways that will help me avoid costly mistakes. I found him because I wanted to better understand different types concrete.
Thanks Steve. These videos have been a game changer. I’m about to do what you warned about. I’m going to do my own waterline tile. I have a pool contractor doing the demo and re-plaster but I’m doing the tile, plumbing, electrical, and deck surface on a 1960’s Blue Haven gunite in ground.
Would the 'glue/silicone' stuff make a decent "mortar" for building with concrete bricks?
Normally you'd just use a mortar between bricks. But that's kinda an old-new-old layering. I kinda wonder if bonding might be better?
Hi Steve, I want to put pavers around the pool and pour concrete to the pavers, Do I need any thing in between? Or can I pour right to the pavers? The pavers will be glued down to the steel walls. Thanks
Sounds like you should probably have an expansion joint with a flexible urethane to seperate them and protect from expansion forces.
Hi there. Great content. I have a question. I have a double garage and I want to add some concrete to the old pad to raise up a section that has dropped. I tried this once before already and the new concrete completely detached and broke apart. My question is how/when to add the concrete after applying the bonding slurry. Do you let it dry then add? Or "paint" it on and immediately add?
How thick is the new concrete going to be? You really want to use steel hardware to pin the new area to the old in addition to a bonding slurry (and apply new mud before the slurry dries)
@@Swimmingpoolsteve it will taper from about 3 inches to zero.
@@ajjenga4316 you cannot zero or featehr edge concrete. Even heavily modified concrete will be 1/4" minimum. 1/2" for unmodified and it would be easy to have that fail even. For anything 2" or more I would install hardware into the existing slab and tie new steel to that.
What technique works best for below grade?
I like all the pots on your shelf. I assume you made those...planning on a video??
I like the channel content, thanks
I probably will make a video series on mold making and casting soon.
This has been a stressful process getting quotes to repair my steps. I have contactors telling me that it's ok to put concrete on concrete without any type of bonding to change the depth of my steps. Feeling lost
A bonding slurry is important especially for thin overlay applications, where if I were adding something thicker like 2" or more I would want steel pinning / dowels into the old concrete to help anchor the two together.