@@focusfrenzy9759 My 2 cents..... Fluid Film the heck out of the braided wire and entire back of starter motor where all the connections are. Just go nuts with it. Can't hurt.
@@Spector_NS5_RD Yes oil will prevent corrosion of wiring so long as slush and salt spray from the front tires don't eventually wash it off before the end of winter season. I use Krown on my winter vehicle up here in Canada, and it works well to prevent corrosion including wires and connections. But I had the wire running to the starter completely corrode off on my Grand Marquis right at the connector. It happened in the spring and there was no oil on that whatsoever after a full winter of commuting to work over slushy roads. Also, any product used for anti-rust is only as good as the application.
@@Spector_NS5_RD In this particular application dielectric grease is a much better choice but if for some reason a person can't get access to it, liquid electrical tape is second best.
My guess is that the corrosion on that braided wire causes resistance. Add heat from the exhaust and resistance rises further. I would think that auto start/stop puts extra wear and tear on the starter. Great job cleaning the hardware to ensure a good ground. Most techs would probably skip that extra step and just install the new starter and ship it. I didn't know that OBDII could monitor the starter.
I'm not sure what changed about starter brush material but I get starters on many brands with 75K to 125K miles with the exact symptoms (but insulated sol-motor wire or exposed with no corrosion). I take starter out and remove motor end cap and blow out the brush wear dust and grease and put it together and no more issues. The commutator and brushes will be fine. On these vehicles there will be no clicks or noises but you can do the ancient starter tap trick while someone switches to start and they will crank. The ground the solenoid gets through brushes for the solenoid pull-in winding is weak since it goes through brushes to ground and brushes not making connection due to dust accumulation kills that ground. The hold-in winding of solenoid is not strong enough to pull plunger in and depress the contact pin in solenoid end to power motor. The pull-in winding ground is cancelled when the motor gets powered on that solenoid terminal. If you tap starter you can get the brushes in better connection and it is good until it happens again. Starter tap fixing the no crank is usually the sign of worn out brushes but the brushes in these late model vehicles are not worn even 1/2 way when I see the problem and find the dust pile.
My old ford ranger had the same issue the wire literally fully separated, leaving bare copper can only be explained by engineered obsolescence. Every part needs a failure point designed into the product not to make things last too long. What a world we live inwhere we could make something last but choose not to.
I’d try sealing that braided connection with liquid electrical tape or plasti dip. Might stave off future corrosion. I’m surprised ford doesn’t coat them with something.
Thank God for those OBD engineers that set the P-codes to help technicians and customers with intermittent problems. OBDII is the best thing that happened to the automotive industry. Paul B. at Ford and John VG. at GM are some great people that cared about techs and customers. Us lower engineers also care about you. We get bashed a lot from both ends. We do the job well for techs like you. We love guys like you!
You can't see the issue with the braid at first until you use a mirror to inspect, I've had a few auto start stop starters on the last years where that same braid Corroded and falls apart
@@FordBossMe I wonder if you rubbed dielectric grease into the braid would slow the corrosion. Looks like nude copper and it will corrode badly if not treated. Old-school distributors with the copper braid to ground the points disk always looked healthy (the braided copper) because of the little bit of engine oil getting in there.
@@FordBossMemy truck has been having similar issues. Through my research, which has included digging through forums for hours, that lead me to the heat soak issue, from the starter being too close to the exhaust manifold. The reason I came across your video was that I have a long trip coming up, so I figured it was finally time to address the issue, so I don’t get stuck. I googled to see how long it was going to take to swap out the starter, to see if I could fit it into my schedule or if I had bring it to the shop. After seeing this, tomorrow morning I am going to see if my braided ground is corroding. I think that the forums are correct that it’s a heat soak issue that’s causing the widespread starting issue that Ford won’t address, but the reason the heat soak is magnified, is that the ground circuit through corrosion, is that much more resistant, so lower temperatures have larger impact.
Thank you for this video. I had the same problem with my 2018 which had 46,000 miles on it. Brought my truck to the local Ford dealer who at first couldn't diagnose the problem only to replace the battery thinking that was the issues. When it wouldn't auto start at a nearby intersection, I brought it back. After a week of the dealer having it, I remembered this video and mentioned the corroded braiding. Sure enough, it was the issue. Ford covered about 75% of cost to replace including labor. Thank you again
Seems that in the rust belt these vehicles need to be disassembled, greased and protected day one. The quality and corossion resistance of the speced materials...leaves a lot to be desired.
I mean, yes rust belt kills vehicles. This one is a little different. Look around under there. Very clean and no other major rust or corrosion nearby. Seems more like an electrical corrosion than road salt corrosion. Might be a good idea to spray a battery terminal corrosion coating on there 👍
That corroded wire is downstream of the main solenoid connection, downstream of the pull-in coil and upstream of the motor windings. Just a few ohms of resistance there would be the difference between starting and not having the juice to turn the motor over. Nice to have access to that spot for drop testing across the solenoid, but obviously vulnerable. Cool finding. I'm with you guys, they should have protected that area from corrosion, somehow.
Insane that nobody thought having that small of a copper wire exposed to atmosphere with no coating whatsoever was a bad idea. Chief electrical engineer at Ford needs to be talked to.
I have a 09 F 150 Lariat with the 5.4, only recently did I find out it's a troublesome engine. Mine has been great, but it's maintained and not abused and is now at 135,000 miles. I now know what the early symptoms are such as timing chain noise when starting, the second I hear that I'll open it up and do the entire timing chain and cam phaser replacement. On the positive side, no oil consumption!
That orange box grabs me every single time! I'm about to pull the trigger on an orange Cornwell box this Friday, never thought I'd own it but alot like your situation the deal is there
Hey Rich, I haven't watched you for at least a couple of years, maybe three. You helped me back in my beginning KETO days with keto info. You also helped me with an S-10 fuel pump too. For some reason, you popped into my YT browsing head tonight. I enjoyed this video. - My nutrition story... After almost a year of Keto struggles, I switched to my own keto-carnivore lifestyle. It's worked for me, every day, for years without gaining an ounce. I'm 5'6" x 140 lbs. I started at 174 lbs, I.R., and with explosive blood pressure. Now I'm lean fit and healthy. Luckily, I don't crave a lot of variety, and I gave up experimenting long ago. I eat the same basic 6 keto foods/recipes and meats, over and over. - I remember when you first started your Ford channel. I'm very impressed with your unique style of presentation and Ford knowledge, skills, and abilities! I subbed and will check in from time to time. I'm on a UA-cam geo-politics binge non-a-days. LOL. - Congrats on 43.5K subs!
Another great vid about something that may pertain to my truck one day. Going to coat the braided wire on mine with dielectric grease today or tomorrow!
I have a 1993 Ford Escort GT with the Mazda BP05 engine (29 years old). It does not burn oil. I have only had to replace the distributor because the integrated CSP sensor failed.
I sold my 2001 ZR2 with 252,000 miles on it.. it had the factory starter and water pump.. I changed the alternator at 180,000 miles because the bearings were starting to growl.. I did all of the maintenance to the truck myself..
I have a 2014 that the starter failed at 50 thousand miles.that copper wire had disingrated to dust.that is the hardest starter I ever replaced in my life.
Exactly the same symptoms on my 18 F150 was having. AGM battery got replaced November last year and helped tons but started struggling to start. Then one day at a gas station it would attempt but just didn’t have the strength to turn it over. Changed it out with a LKQ low mile OEM starter. Starts like a champ. Same copper strap on my old one was corroded all out and stiff, when I did get it to budge it disintegrated.
My dad has the same year and engine truck, it burns 3 to 3.5 quarts every 5,000 miles. The dealer did the tsb with the new dipstick and programming and it hasn’t made a difference, they wouldn’t replace the engine after that was done. It only had 47,000 miles and is still in warranty
@@FordBossMe I said the same thing, being in the Chicago area there are a lot of dealers to pick from, I’m trying to convince him to go to one of them.
When the tsb has been done, and it’s still consuming oil, request an oil consumption test per Ford. It’s considered excessive if the engine consumes more than 1qt/3000 miles. It’s an official test. So you can demand the dealership do it. They simply do an oil change, mark the dipstick, and have you come in every few hundred miles for them to check the oil until it drops a quart or has exceeded 3000 miles without dropping a qt. If it fails, they are required to repair or replace the engine under warranty if it’s less than 5 years/60,000 miles under powertrain warranty. If they don’t, then contact Ford. They’ll require them to
@@craigg4246 We’ve found that performing the tsb does fix the vast majority of the problems. But a few have to be repaired further.. glad yours was fixed.
Would be an excuse to install a Ford Performance High Torque Starter, I love mine. No hesitation starting after long drives, like the original one on My 14 GT always did.
My dad is looking for a used F-150 with the 5.0L and I tell him to look for the 15-17 years because it seems like they were solid motors before the 18+ came out with all the oil burning issues.
I like to "chase" the thick oil out with the thin. Makes the job go quickly and you get all the gooey goodness out ;-) I'd throw another 1/2 quart, or whatever would take to get to the top crosshatch, considering the consumption history. Would get this lady a few extra miles down the road.
Fantastic info. Thanks for sharing. On the little Ford salt spreader trucks those caps over the starter battery cable connection hide much corrosion as well. All the best.
Same issue here on a 2018 5.0. Truck randomly delays start after longer drives. It always turns over, but the delay freaks ya out. Been doing it for 3 years. It hasn't not started yet, but I'm not waiting until it completely dies. Time for it to be replaced.
Thank you for the explanation at the beginning. 100% my problem. I replaced the battery since it was 4.5 years old (lasted a good long while!). Didn't help. Wouldn't start for the 4th time in a couple months, and this time had my 2 kids with me at a McDonald's while it's 10 degrees outside. Wildly inconvenient timing Edit: turned out to be a loose auto transmission bulkhead connector (c168a). Ford was kind enough to charge me 400 to plug it back in
Jeez! That's some rust belt style corrosion I don't miss seeing! I would cover that braided conductor with some grease or something sticky and petroleum.
I need to replace the positive battery thermal on my 2012 Fusion 3.0. Looks like the battery started to leak and the corrosion ate the postive terminal.
My 2019 5.0 got a long block replacement at 15K. Mine was using 3-4 qts in 5K or less after the TSB.. They left mine sit overnight and pulled the plugs and found oil in 3 or 4 of the cylinders with a bore scope. They assumed it was leaking from the heads somewhere. Ford wanted the dealer to replace heads, but they had a 1.5 - 2 month lead time so they replaced the engine. New one seems be better with about 10k more on it. It was barely off the full mark at 4-5K. I know they went to the new cylinder coating in 2018, but they also upped the compression and added port fuel injection along with the direct. I wonder if all the problems are the same or not? A lot say it is the plasma coating or whatever, but mine seems to be leaking through the head (valves).
If there is oil getting into the combustion chamber could that be evap related? Just curious because I’ve seen that happen with people hooking vacuum lines up wrong
@@donschaefer9442 I don't think so because it didn't show up until it sat a while overnight, so theory was it slowly leaked from the head. TSB was supposed to help with oil being sucked into the PCV on throttle tip off. It used oil as a brand new engine from Ford on the first oil change.
My antique pickup was going through a gallon of oil every 1,000 miles before I rebuilt the engine. 3 quarts in 5,000 doesn't sound too bad lol. But I understand some people can't be bothered to check and adjust oil level between changes
If older motors don’t consume oil in between changes there’s no reason for a new one to do so. Yes, it wouldn’t kill people to check their oil level from time to time and change oil a tad more often but there is an issue with these motors. My older MB with 137k doesn’t burn a drop of oil in between changes. No need for a newer motor to burn that.
@@IKhanNot All piston engines consume oil, its by design. Any lubrication supplied to the top piston ring, and the valve guides is sacrificial. What you mean is your BMW adds fuel, water, and soot to the oil at roughly the same rate the oil is consumed.
@@Texassince1836 I said MB, not BMW. Also, oil stays in the crosshatching to help lubricate the top rings and sidewall. Minute amounts of oil maybe but not quarts and quarts every couple thousand miles. I change the oil every 7500 miles (versus the 10k miles they recommend) and just about 8 quarts comes out which is what went in.
@@IKhanNot "just about 8 quarts" is not the same as "not a drop" A couple ounces of consumption in 7500 miles is about the lowest you'll ever get piston engine consumption. Yes Im aware the oil stays "in the crosshatch". But what happens to it after? Its burned. There is no return to the oil pan once it's been used to lubricate the top piston ring or the valve guides.
@@Texassince1836 Which means very little oil gets burned. In the case of this Ford Coyote motor it's literally burning large amounts of oil. Even if the owner were to top off the oil regularly which at least keeps the motor lubricated and oil temps down the problem still exists. Ford dropped the ball, the owner shouldn't have to be adding that oil in between changes
There’s thousands of 5 liters are doing just fine. 18-19s on some had issues, but overall it’s a good engine. Yes a little noisy , but overall it does just fine.
My 5.0 in my '18 sounded like a diesel since I bought it brand new. Told the dealer to check it out at 1st oil change....told me it was normal....I love my truck but.......waiting for bad things to happen.
@@paulforrest6000 Same here. Waiting for the day for something to happen. Best riding truck I’ve ever owned, but that feeling of impending trouble never goes away.
@@bombero3368 Absolutely, cant really rest easy although I love my truck. I park next to a guy at work who runs a big SuperDuty and his engine is quieter than mine! The words of the dealership saying that's normal are unbelievable and provide no comfort. Warranty is long gone. I'm hoping to beat the odds. I live close to work, so I have very low mileage 28,500k's/17,800 miles so maybe nothing is happening yet. Will monitor more closely now.Good luck to you.
This is Disappointing to see giving the fact these trucks cost more then average houses in my area and they not even the top trim level, hopefully Ford narrowed this problem down and the new trucks no longer dealing with this problem but 60k+ trucks and needing new engines, starters if I was in charge There will be an mass termination slips towards every engineer across the board NO EXCUSES
We need to be terminating the beaurocrats making the regulations these engineers are forced to comply with that is forcing these stoopid designs. Ford isnt alone. All manufacturers are doing this nonsense.
This just proves technicians can't only rely on car scans...Most times a visual check or feel around with your hands is the best check...saved the customer alot of wasted time...
Ford just moving backwards.. Always got to remove so much stuff to do a basically simple r&r.. can replace starter in about 10 min at night with flashlight in my mouth on my 98 Chevy. And most of the starters I have replaced from AC Delco have a sleeve where that is corroded or completely covered.
Solenoid nut is m6x1.0 flange nut. You can find a ford standard fastener catalog online in pdf . I am truly amazed the new starter did not come with a new small and large nut in a package. Somebody saving 20 cents it seems. The solenoid winding is grounded to the output stud where the wire goes into the starter housing. This allows the solenoid to ground thru the brushes for a split second while its pulling the plunger in, shoving out the starter drive. When the plunger bottoms out in the solenoid closes the contact disc. The current draw is reduced thru the solenoid. I probably would have given the strands of the wire into the starter a quick blast of red battery terminal protectant to reduce corrosion eating away the copper .. but that is just me. Perhaps a shot of head gasket spray that says good for 500f. Electrons travel along the surface of the conductor strands. Oxidation of the strands reduces electrons ability. Ps. When converting to a perm magnet starter with a fender mounted starter relay in earlier models that had a single cable. Must move the relay to starter cable to the B+ side of the fender mounted relay and run a second wire from the switched stud on the fender mounted relay to the S terminal of the solenoid on the starter or the PMGR starter will stay engaged do to it being isolated. And spinning down becomes a generator that feeds the solenoid just enough current to keep the drive engaged after you released the key.
Or I should say after everything was installed and the basic video on how to and I covered that in the comment section multiple times I cover it with Dielectric grease to keep moisture out of it
This is another very good video. All of us who watch these appreciate the time and effort put into making them. I do own an f150 with the 5.0 in it. I do have a silly question, is there really a substantial difference in synthetic blend oil compared to full synthetic? Have you seen any problems with running full synthetic in the 5.0?
But just think how much money in gas he saved while that start/stop system was wearing out his starter and battery! I have a 2018 F150 5.0. First thing I did was disable the stoopid start/stop.
@@kellismith4329 i seriously doubt you could even notice the small savings in fuel it produces. But you will definitely notice the the extra cost of starters, batteries, and who knows what else?
If you'll look close that green corrosion has ran through from the battery cable down to the starter and if you don't replace the cable it will do the same thing again
'17 coyote here, 101k, no oil consumption, no problems but the starter is starting to get wonky. sometimes I'll twist that key and it seems like the bendix kicks out to try to start, but it does nothing, then clunks back in.... it's intermittent, but guess I'm fxn to replace it
Instead of braided wire where the oxidation gets to the individual wire strands how about a quality insulated bus bar that is protected from the elements? Starters have been around for as long as there have been cars so it’s a component that should be perfected by now. If Ford is going to cut costs by making every component as cheap as they can maybe they could at least put a pull-start rope next to the spare tire for emergencies!
@@standhd They could do what the Chinese do for their pull start diesels, have a compression release so you use the pull rope to freewheel the engine up to a good speed then close the compression release and hope it pops off, they have automatic compression releases but they tend to disengage prematurely
I have a 2016 F150 with same motor, about a year ago I had to replace my starter. The symptoms were audible "something isn't right". Missing/grinding type noise. I had 50K miles on it then.
2016 is not the same motor. Yes, it still says 5.0 V8, but the 2018 has a different block with plasma cylinder walls instead of iron sleeves, different compression ratio, 12:1 vs 10.5:1, different heads with larger valves, different intake cams, different fuel injection system with both port AND direct injection, different intake manifold, different displacement, 307 CI vs 302. Your 2016 is a gen 2 Coyote. The best they ever made. 2018-2020 is the gen 3. It makes more power and gets better mileage, but has a whole host of problems yours doesnt have. The 2021+ Coyote, known as gen 4, is even a bigger disaster with a belt driven oil pump and cylinder deactivation. Hang on to your 2016 my friend. Its a far better engine than the crap they are making now.
@@u2mister17 #1 thing you can do to keep it running is throw away the Ford maintenance schedule! Use a polyalphaolephin oil, like Amsoil signature series, Shaeffers or Motul, and change it every 3-4000 miles.
Sure, nobody stocks the stuff locally. Even online places, they are hard to find. Find some other part like a bad bushing and its not worth my time. Wing a $150 New OEM starter purchased online and call it good for the next 5-10 years.
Another example of the lack of ford to install sufficient splash shields in the wheelwells. They have always done this and it leads to rotted exhaust manifolds, steering shafts and starters and wiring. It really wouldn’t cost them much to add some rubber splash shields……
56 K MILES and Needs a "NEW ENGINE" What in the Name of FORD Is Going on Here??? Sorry for my Late comment, I just Signed up to the Channel. GREAT CHANNEL TOO!!!!
Curious to see the connection on the end of the braided wire inside the starter. If just a simple nut connection to a stud, may be possible to replace corroded wire.
my 2019 just died of the slow crank when hot issue. replaced starter last night. braid still looks new, so some other problem with mine. just barely past warranty.
I don't have time to watch the video this second but I have to ask. Is it auto-start-stop? All of AAA light service 150s have this, these trucks are doing two or three starters per year. These trucks are running 24/7, having only 1.5 hours of downtime per day per vehicle. And most of the time, the engine is still idling during this 1.5 hours. Most AAA vehicles have more hours on the meter than miles on the odometer. But they all work in the city so it's constant start stop start stop start stop
I absolutely hate that auto start/stop on my 2018 F150. I always hit the button to disable it every time I start the truck. If I eventually wear out that button, it will certainly be cheaper than replacing the starter.
My 2018 5.0 has 92,000 on it. 3600 miles into the last oil change I had to add a quart. 1000 miles later had to add a quart and a half. How much does it have to consume before they’ll replace parts of the tsb has already been performed?
It's not a matter of how much it's a matter of you getting it into the dealership to have the kids be done so they can investigate and keep track of how much it's using before they determine whether or not it needs cylinder heads or a complete engine
Bless the Ford engineer that decided a bolt with a small 10 mm hex head was a good choice to mount the starter with......there is plenty of room for a flange bolt with a 13mm hex head. Add in the corrosion that will certainly form and a simple starter replacement will turn into a nightmare. Ask me how I know this........
I find it curious that suddenly between 20 & 21 model years ford suddenly went from 5w-20 to 5w-30 in the coyotes. I have a 21 Mach 1 and attended the track attack. I found out Ford performance racing school uses 5w-50 only in all their coyote cars. Those cars are driven hard and not a single one has the “coyote” tick. They all run like sewing machines at idle, I mean no tick no valve train noise. I might just follow their lead and run 5w-50 as I have to believe it’s not for no reason. Even the 5w-30 I would imagine is for fuel mileage, I know the 5w-20 certainly was.
2128km on 1 litre of oil is still considered normal by the book. For me it's not normal at all and seen that mileage. So changing the oil at 6000 miles is then useless if it consumes all the oil before the change
@@FordBossMe my new work is about 8000km each year And about 2000-3000km private distance. I have to look in the book how far I'm going now with the current oil. I don't think it's 5k miles right now.
Hmmm, a Facebook expert told me that the oil consumption issue was because the dipstick was wrong, and they were not really using oil, but a buddy of mine had one that would use 4 quarts in 5k also, dealership would change oil at 5k and only get one quart out of it when draining. Don't listen to FB experts people is what I'm trying to say. Also, Ford was allowing it to use 1 quart per 1k miles before making it a recall at the time, is this still the case, if so, bad move on Ford, I wanted a 5.0, but went with the 2.7 for this reason, good idea or not, I don't know, but I'm happy with the 2.7.
Good think it wasn't a Kia Theta2 you have to burn a quart or more every thousand miles for it to fail. Luckily mine ate a valve 4 hours after they changed the oil to start the test because I was measuring about a quart for every 1200 miles. Curious as to what the consumption number is for a Ford thousand mile oil consumption test?
My 2018 5.0 is eating 4qts per 5K miles now. The engine sounds awful- like a diesel, piston slap, knocking, typewriter tick, chirping, and the VCT deceleration rattle!! :) Why did her engine need to be replaced?
Doesn't need fluid film Die electric will keep the moisture out but fluid film or even better surface shiped would work to About 30 people have commented this and I have answered
epoxy coating on the wire?
Best thing is xg12 electrical grease or dielectric grease
@@FordBossMe paint the braided wire with liquid electric tape, a couple coats will soak in and seal it up tight from salt and air.
@@focusfrenzy9759 My 2 cents..... Fluid Film the heck out of the braided wire and entire back of starter motor where all the connections are. Just go nuts with it. Can't hurt.
@@Spector_NS5_RD Yes oil will prevent corrosion of wiring so long as slush and salt spray from the front tires don't eventually wash it off before the end of winter season.
I use Krown on my winter vehicle up here in Canada, and it works well to prevent corrosion including wires and connections. But I had the wire running to the starter completely corrode off on my Grand Marquis right at the connector. It happened in the spring and there was no oil on that whatsoever after a full winter of commuting to work over slushy roads.
Also, any product used for anti-rust is only as good as the application.
@@Spector_NS5_RD In this particular application dielectric grease is a much better choice but if for some reason a person can't get access to it, liquid electrical tape is second best.
Somebody at Ford messed up. It was supposed to fail 5,000 miles later when the 60,000 warranty expired.
Starter is covered under Powertrain?
@@justins8768 yup, powertrain component. Battery unlikely though. And those AGM batteries are damn expensive.
True….😂
@@hellkitty1014 They're expensive, but they last a long time. I have a 17 Malibu with the original AGM battery in it still.
I worked on Mercedes’ with 13 year old agm batteries
My guess is that the corrosion on that braided wire causes resistance. Add heat from the exhaust and resistance rises further. I would think that auto start/stop puts extra wear and tear on the starter. Great job cleaning the hardware to ensure a good ground. Most techs would probably skip that extra step and just install the new starter and ship it. I didn't know that OBDII could monitor the starter.
I'm not sure what changed about starter brush material but I get starters on many brands with 75K to 125K miles with the exact symptoms (but insulated sol-motor wire or exposed with no corrosion). I take starter out and remove motor end cap and blow out the brush wear dust and grease and put it together and no more issues. The commutator and brushes will be fine. On these vehicles there will be no clicks or noises but you can do the ancient starter tap trick while someone switches to start and they will crank. The ground the solenoid gets through brushes for the solenoid pull-in winding is weak since it goes through brushes to ground and brushes not making connection due to dust accumulation kills that ground. The hold-in winding of solenoid is not strong enough to pull plunger in and depress the contact pin in solenoid end to power motor. The pull-in winding ground is cancelled when the motor gets powered on that solenoid terminal. If you tap starter you can get the brushes in better connection and it is good until it happens again. Starter tap fixing the no crank is usually the sign of worn out brushes but the brushes in these late model vehicles are not worn even 1/2 way when I see the problem and find the dust pile.
It had a good long life for a modern Ford product. Thank you for your service.
My old ford ranger had the same issue the wire literally fully separated, leaving bare copper can only be explained by engineered obsolescence. Every part needs a failure point designed into the product not to make things last too long. What a world we live inwhere we could make something last but choose not to.
Make it last till the warranty runs out, thanks for looking out for us Ford.
same here, starter died at just past the warranty on my 2019 50 k miles and just past 3 years. just replaced it last night.
I’d try sealing that braided connection with liquid electrical tape or plasti dip. Might stave off future corrosion. I’m surprised ford doesn’t coat them with something.
My starter was 3-13mm 1- 12mm and 1-10mm
Also note the 10mm will nreak off easy so lighy tighten it and make sure tk ise the lock washer.
I love the sound of a healthy Ford starter. No other sounds like it. I've had 70 and 05 Mustang, Crown Vic and two Townies and they all sounded alike.
It's true I could always tell when my dads Ford crown Vic or neighbors f150 was starting up in my neighborhood
E seriesssss
Thank God for those OBD engineers that set the P-codes to help technicians and customers with intermittent problems. OBDII is the best thing that happened to the automotive industry. Paul B. at Ford and John VG. at GM are some great people that cared about techs and customers. Us lower engineers also care about you. We get bashed a lot from both ends. We do the job well for techs like you. We love guys like you!
You can't see the issue with the braid at first until you use a mirror to inspect, I've had a few auto start stop starters on the last years where that same braid Corroded and falls apart
@@FordBossMe I wonder if you rubbed dielectric grease into the braid would slow the corrosion. Looks like nude copper and it will corrode badly if not treated. Old-school distributors with the copper braid to ground the points disk always looked healthy (the braided copper) because of the little bit of engine oil getting in there.
@@FordBossMemy truck has been having similar issues. Through my research, which has included digging through forums for hours, that lead me to the heat soak issue, from the starter being too close to the exhaust manifold. The reason I came across your video was that I have a long trip coming up, so I figured it was finally time to address the issue, so I don’t get stuck. I googled to see how long it was going to take to swap out the starter, to see if I could fit it into my schedule or if I had bring it to the shop. After seeing this, tomorrow morning I am going to see if my braided ground is corroding. I think that the forums are correct that it’s a heat soak issue that’s causing the widespread starting issue that Ford won’t address, but the reason the heat soak is magnified, is that the ground circuit through corrosion, is that much more resistant, so lower temperatures have larger impact.
Thank you for this video. I had the same problem with my 2018 which had 46,000 miles on it. Brought my truck to the local Ford dealer who at first couldn't diagnose the problem only to replace the battery thinking that was the issues. When it wouldn't auto start at a nearby intersection, I brought it back. After a week of the dealer having it, I remembered this video and mentioned the corroded braiding. Sure enough, it was the issue. Ford covered about 75% of cost to replace including labor. Thank you again
How much did you spend on parts & labor? I’m about to replace mine
Dude, so glad you made this video. You made my starter replacement so easy!!!! Who's da man!? That's you my dawg!!!! Thank you
Seems that in the rust belt these vehicles need to be disassembled, greased and protected day one. The quality and corossion resistance of the speced materials...leaves a lot to be desired.
I mean, yes rust belt kills vehicles. This one is a little different. Look around under there. Very clean and no other major rust or corrosion nearby. Seems more like an electrical corrosion than road salt corrosion. Might be a good idea to spray a battery terminal corrosion coating on there 👍
That corroded wire is downstream of the main solenoid connection, downstream of the pull-in coil and upstream of the motor windings. Just a few ohms of resistance there would be the difference between starting and not having the juice to turn the motor over. Nice to have access to that spot for drop testing across the solenoid, but obviously vulnerable. Cool finding. I'm with you guys, they should have protected that area from corrosion, somehow.
Your reference to the movie Sling Blade….”It ain’t got no gas!”….One of the best parts of that movie….LOL
Insane that nobody thought having that small of a copper wire exposed to atmosphere with no coating whatsoever was a bad idea. Chief electrical engineer at Ford needs to be talked to.
They can't get cam phasers right, what makes you think they can get simple shit right either
I have a 09 F 150 Lariat with the 5.4, only recently did I find out it's a troublesome engine. Mine has been great, but it's maintained and not abused and is now at 135,000 miles. I now know what the early symptoms are such as timing chain noise when starting, the second I hear that I'll open it up and do the entire timing chain and cam phaser replacement. On the positive side, no oil consumption!
Ford loves that hidden bolt at the top of the starter, lol, been doing it for a couple decades now.
Nice find Rich, as usual.
That too bolt has been the most dreadful thing of my life. Still can’t manage to beat It.
That orange box grabs me every single time! I'm about to pull the trigger on an orange Cornwell box this Friday, never thought I'd own it but alot like your situation the deal is there
Hey Rich, I haven't watched you for at least a couple of years, maybe three. You helped me back in my beginning KETO days with keto info. You also helped me with an S-10 fuel pump too. For some reason, you popped into my YT browsing head tonight. I enjoyed this video.
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My nutrition story... After almost a year of Keto struggles, I switched to my own keto-carnivore lifestyle. It's worked for me, every day, for years without gaining an ounce. I'm 5'6" x 140 lbs. I started at 174 lbs, I.R., and with explosive blood pressure. Now I'm lean fit and healthy. Luckily, I don't crave a lot of variety, and I gave up experimenting long ago. I eat the same basic 6 keto foods/recipes and meats, over and over.
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I remember when you first started your Ford channel. I'm very impressed with your unique style of presentation and Ford knowledge, skills, and abilities! I subbed and will check in from time to time. I'm on a UA-cam geo-politics binge non-a-days. LOL.
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Congrats on 43.5K subs!
I fell off awhile and I'm back on strong now so we shall see, I'm more carnivore also
Another great vid about something that may pertain to my truck one day. Going to coat the braided wire on mine with dielectric grease today or tomorrow!
I have a 1993 Ford Escort GT with the Mazda BP05 engine (29 years old). It does not burn oil. I have only had to replace the distributor because the integrated CSP sensor failed.
Looks like a good candidate for the anti corrosion spray for batteries.
I sold my 2001 ZR2 with 252,000 miles on it.. it had the factory starter and water pump.. I changed the alternator at 180,000 miles because the bearings were starting to growl..
I did all of the maintenance to the truck myself..
I have a 2014 that the starter failed at 50 thousand miles.that copper wire had disingrated to dust.that is the hardest starter I ever replaced in my life.
Exactly the same symptoms on my 18 F150 was having. AGM battery got replaced November last year and helped tons but started struggling to start. Then one day at a gas station it would attempt but just didn’t have the strength to turn it over. Changed it out with a LKQ low mile OEM starter. Starts like a champ. Same copper strap on my old one was corroded all out and stiff, when I did get it to budge it disintegrated.
My dad has the same year and engine truck, it burns 3 to 3.5 quarts every 5,000 miles. The dealer did the tsb with the new dipstick and programming and it hasn’t made a difference, they wouldn’t replace the engine after that was done. It only had 47,000 miles and is still in warranty
That's a shit dealer
@@FordBossMe I said the same thing, being in the Chicago area there are a lot of dealers to pick from, I’m trying to convince him to go to one of them.
When the tsb has been done, and it’s still consuming oil, request an oil consumption test per Ford. It’s considered excessive if the engine consumes more than 1qt/3000 miles. It’s an official test. So you can demand the dealership do it. They simply do an oil change, mark the dipstick, and have you come in every few hundred miles for them to check the oil until it drops a quart or has exceeded 3000 miles without dropping a qt. If it fails, they are required to repair or replace the engine under warranty if it’s less than 5 years/60,000 miles under powertrain warranty. If they don’t, then contact Ford. They’ll require them to
My 2018 5.0 went from 1200 miles per quart to 4500 miles per quart after the tsb. Not perfect, but a helluva lot better!
@@craigg4246 We’ve found that performing the tsb does fix the vast majority of the problems. But a few have to be repaired further.. glad yours was fixed.
Dielectric grease on the braded wire? Should have been a coated wire from the factory.
Would be an excuse to install a Ford Performance High Torque Starter, I love mine. No hesitation starting after long drives, like the original one on My 14 GT always did.
Under warranty can't - it's not a torque issue anyway
My dad is looking for a used F-150 with the 5.0L and I tell him to look for the 15-17 years because it seems like they were solid motors before the 18+ came out with all the oil burning issues.
You are telling him right
Really from 2011 to 2017 were pretty good 2015 to 2017 were even stronger
Gotta love it, they should charge even more for a new truck.
Good info the starter looked good from the bottom but when you took it off it’s all corroded. It would be easy to overlook those wires
I like to "chase" the thick oil out with the thin. Makes the job go quickly and you get all the gooey goodness out ;-) I'd throw another 1/2 quart, or whatever would take to get to the top crosshatch, considering the consumption history. Would get this lady a few extra miles down the road.
Ehhh I get what your saying but this was out of my own money so I have instructed the customer keep an eye on it
@@FordBossMe You're a good man. Wish you weren't so far away from my home ;-)
You figure they would put some sort of anti corrosive material on it. Or maybe some heat shrink.
Would coating that braid with diaelectric grease help prevent the corosion?
Yes
I just wrote to ask the same. Sorry for the redundancy!
Another idea, the red/purple spray protectant normally used on battery terminals might be worth a try.
@@alskooper3319 That would penetrate well. Add to it some kind of splash guard to keep the salt water out. The "rust belt" sukz!
@@jamesplotkin4674 Not a big problem in AZ, but we would still see braided ground straps end up green with corrosion every so often.
Fantastic info. Thanks for sharing.
On the little Ford salt spreader trucks those caps over the starter battery cable connection hide much corrosion as well.
All the best.
Same issue here on a 2018 5.0. Truck randomly delays start after longer drives. It always turns over, but the delay freaks ya out. Been doing it for 3 years. It hasn't not started yet, but I'm not waiting until it completely dies. Time for it to be replaced.
Thank you for the explanation at the beginning. 100% my problem. I replaced the battery since it was 4.5 years old (lasted a good long while!). Didn't help.
Wouldn't start for the 4th time in a couple months, and this time had my 2 kids with me at a McDonald's while it's 10 degrees outside. Wildly inconvenient timing
Edit: turned out to be a loose auto transmission bulkhead connector (c168a). Ford was kind enough to charge me 400 to plug it back in
Jeez! That's some rust belt style corrosion I don't miss seeing! I would cover that braided conductor with some grease or something sticky and petroleum.
That’s really a lot of oil burnt in 5k miles. Ford decided to use plasma coating on the cylinder walls on 2018 and up 5.0 liter engines.
We don't want to hear about any Toyota fan Boy Toyota schit here
We've heard enough of it so please spare us with the bs
@@FordBossMe Exactly!
They fixed the oil consumption with a smaller dipstick.😂
@@FordBossMe Toyota is complete junk!
@@retiredafce3373 Their engines and transmissions are good but they rot out before the engine or transmission goes.
My 2018 needed a starter at the same mileage but happy to say my engine’s doing just fine. That start/stop nonsense cuts the starters life in half.
The one in my truck was decent to replace, nothing I'd want to do on the side of the road by any means.
I need to replace the positive battery thermal on my 2012 Fusion 3.0. Looks like the battery started to leak and the corrosion ate the postive terminal.
My 2019 5.0 got a long block replacement at 15K. Mine was using 3-4 qts in 5K or less after the TSB.. They left mine sit overnight and pulled the plugs and found oil in 3 or 4 of the cylinders with a bore scope. They assumed it was leaking from the heads somewhere. Ford wanted the dealer to replace heads, but they had a 1.5 - 2 month lead time so they replaced the engine. New one seems be better with about 10k more on it. It was barely off the full mark at 4-5K. I know they went to the new cylinder coating in 2018, but they also upped the compression and added port fuel injection along with the direct. I wonder if all the problems are the same or not? A lot say it is the plasma coating or whatever, but mine seems to be leaking through the head (valves).
If there is oil getting into the combustion chamber could that be evap related? Just curious because I’ve seen that happen with people hooking vacuum lines up wrong
@@donschaefer9442 I don't think so because it didn't show up until it sat a while overnight, so theory was it slowly leaked from the head. TSB was supposed to help with oil being sucked into the PCV on throttle tip off. It used oil as a brand new engine from Ford on the first oil change.
@@trentm1 That’s crazy. I would be furious. I stopped going to the dealer for oil changes because they didn’t tighten my drain plug.
My antique pickup was going through a gallon of oil every 1,000 miles before I rebuilt the engine. 3 quarts in 5,000 doesn't sound too bad lol.
But I understand some people can't be bothered to check and adjust oil level between changes
If older motors don’t consume oil in between changes there’s no reason for a new one to do so. Yes, it wouldn’t kill people to check their oil level from time to time and change oil a tad more often but there is an issue with these motors. My older MB with 137k doesn’t burn a drop of oil in between changes. No need for a newer motor to burn that.
@@IKhanNot All piston engines consume oil, its by design. Any lubrication supplied to the top piston ring, and the valve guides is sacrificial.
What you mean is your BMW adds fuel, water, and soot to the oil at roughly the same rate the oil is consumed.
@@Texassince1836 I said MB, not BMW. Also, oil stays in the crosshatching to help lubricate the top rings and sidewall. Minute amounts of oil maybe but not quarts and quarts every couple thousand miles. I change the oil every 7500 miles (versus the 10k miles they recommend) and just about 8 quarts comes out which is what went in.
@@IKhanNot "just about 8 quarts" is not the same as "not a drop"
A couple ounces of consumption in 7500 miles is about the lowest you'll ever get piston engine consumption.
Yes Im aware the oil stays "in the crosshatch". But what happens to it after? Its burned. There is no return to the oil pan once it's been used to lubricate the top piston ring or the valve guides.
@@Texassince1836 Which means very little oil gets burned. In the case of this Ford Coyote motor it's literally burning large amounts of oil. Even if the owner were to top off the oil regularly which at least keeps the motor lubricated and oil temps down the problem still exists. Ford dropped the ball, the owner shouldn't have to be adding that oil in between changes
I've seen alot of pcv valves that have failed on these f150 and on the 5.2 cobra engines
There’s thousands of 5 liters are doing just fine. 18-19s on some had issues, but overall it’s a good engine. Yes a little noisy , but overall it does just fine.
I don't want a noisy engine, I want 300k motor
Dang! I have a 2018 F150 with the 5.0 motor and 56K. It sounds like a diesel at times and makes all kind of noises. Keeping my fingers crossed! 🤞
Im lucky. I have a 19 5.0. It sounds normal. I try not to run 87 in it all the time. If I do, i blend e85 in it to boost the octane levels.
My 5.0 in my '18 sounded like a diesel since I bought it brand new. Told the dealer to check it out at 1st oil change....told me it was normal....I love my truck but.......waiting for bad things to happen.
@@paulforrest6000 Same here. Waiting for the day for something to happen. Best riding truck I’ve ever owned, but that feeling of impending trouble never goes away.
@@bombero3368 Absolutely, cant really rest easy although I love my truck. I park next to a guy at work who runs a big SuperDuty and his engine is quieter than mine! The words of the dealership saying that's normal are unbelievable and provide no comfort. Warranty is long gone. I'm hoping to beat the odds. I live close to work, so I have very low mileage 28,500k's/17,800 miles so maybe nothing is happening yet. Will monitor more closely now.Good luck to you.
@@paulforrest6000 96,000 km on my 2018. Getting a new long block under warranty. Bad rings and cam phasers.
This is Disappointing to see giving the fact these trucks cost more then average houses in my area and they not even the top trim level, hopefully Ford narrowed this problem down and the new trucks no longer dealing with this problem but 60k+ trucks and needing new engines, starters if I was in charge There will be an mass termination slips towards every engineer across the board NO EXCUSES
We need to be terminating the beaurocrats making the regulations these engineers are forced to comply with that is forcing these stoopid designs. Ford isnt alone. All manufacturers are doing this nonsense.
This just proves technicians can't only rely on car scans...Most times a visual check or feel around with your hands is the best check...saved the customer alot of wasted time...
At least that starter is easy to come out. Not like the 6.0 with the nasty 3rd bolt, you can barely feel let alone see it.
Ford just moving backwards.. Always got to remove so much stuff to do a basically simple r&r.. can replace starter in about 10 min at night with flashlight in my mouth on my 98 Chevy. And most of the starters I have replaced from AC Delco have a sleeve where that is corroded or completely covered.
Solenoid nut is m6x1.0 flange nut. You can find a ford standard fastener catalog online in pdf . I am truly amazed the new starter did not come with a new small and large nut in a package. Somebody saving 20 cents it seems.
The solenoid winding is grounded to the output stud where the wire goes into the starter housing. This allows the solenoid to ground thru the brushes for a split second while its pulling the plunger in, shoving out the starter drive. When the plunger bottoms out in the solenoid closes the contact disc. The current draw is reduced thru the solenoid.
I probably would have given the strands of the wire into the starter a quick blast of red battery terminal protectant to reduce corrosion eating away the copper .. but that is just me. Perhaps a shot of head gasket spray that says good for 500f.
Electrons travel along the surface of the conductor strands. Oxidation of the strands reduces electrons ability.
Ps. When converting to a perm magnet starter with a fender mounted starter relay in earlier models that had a single cable. Must move the relay to starter cable to the B+ side of the fender mounted relay and run a second wire from the switched stud on the fender mounted relay to the S terminal of the solenoid on the starter or the PMGR starter will stay engaged do to it being isolated. And spinning down becomes a generator that feeds the solenoid just enough current to keep the drive engaged after you released the key.
I covered the wires before I put it back in the truck
Or I should say after everything was installed and the basic video on how to and I covered that in the comment section multiple times I cover it with Dielectric grease to keep moisture out of it
@@FordBossMe ford has that good dielectric electrical connector grease from motorcraft. I always forget about it when I am at the ford parts counter.
У меня на таком же пробеге, стартёр стал прокручивать, заменил бендикс, ремонт обошёлся 60$🔥🔥🔥
This is another very good video. All of us who watch these appreciate the time and effort put into making them. I do own an f150 with the 5.0 in it. I do have a silly question, is there really a substantial difference in synthetic blend oil compared to full synthetic? Have you seen any problems with running full synthetic in the 5.0?
Full or blend is fine, synthetic is just better
@@FordBossMe Specs on full syn are very good. Lately, I've been using the Pennzoil Platinum with great results. Not too expensive.
Thanks for the heads up on this. My 2019 starter has the same corrosion issue.
The fix is to take starter apart put marine heat shrink on bare copper braid re assemble new starter.
But just think how much money in gas he saved while that start/stop system was wearing out his starter and battery! I have a 2018 F150 5.0. First thing I did was disable the stoopid start/stop.
What makes you think the start / stop system wore it out? Seems like the poor choice to use exposed braided wire was the cause.
Yes that is alot of extra work for the starting system, I would rather use a tad more fuel
@@kellismith4329 i seriously doubt you could even notice the small savings in fuel it produces. But you will definitely notice the the extra cost of starters, batteries, and who knows what else?
I hate those things. I rented a Fusion that had that, it annoyed the shit out of me.
If you'll look close that green corrosion has ran through from the battery cable down to the starter and if you don't replace the cable it will do the same thing again
id bung that new wire up with some silicone grease try to prevent it from happening so quick
'17 coyote here, 101k, no oil consumption, no problems but the starter is starting to get wonky. sometimes I'll twist that key and it seems like the bendix kicks out to try to start, but it does nothing, then clunks back in.... it's intermittent, but guess I'm fxn to replace it
I love my 2002 Ford F150 lariat 5.4 2 valve
Battery terminal protector spray? I feel bad for you up there, winter is hard on stuff. I live in CO, we have salt also but not like there.
Good foreign rubber....it only last 2 years. Thank you Global Parts.
Instead of braided wire where the oxidation gets to the individual wire strands how about a quality insulated bus bar that is protected from the elements? Starters have been around for as long as there have been cars so it’s a component that should be perfected by now. If Ford is going to cut costs by making every component as cheap as they can maybe they could at least put a pull-start rope next to the spare tire for emergencies!
Do you have the MUSCLES to PULL START a 5 liter V8?
@@standhd Do polar bears crap in outhouses?
@@robertlarrabee9115 LOL….Fair enough….Great comeback…LOL
@@standhd They could do what the Chinese do for their pull start diesels, have a compression release so you use the pull rope to freewheel the engine up to a good speed then close the compression release and hope it pops off, they have automatic compression releases but they tend to disengage prematurely
@@vacexpert2020 That sounds like a great idea; inertia from the engine to get things rolling then engage compression to get it to fire up.
I have a 2016 F150 with same motor, about a year ago I had to replace my starter. The symptoms were audible "something isn't right". Missing/grinding type noise. I had 50K miles on it then.
2016 is not the same motor. Yes, it still says 5.0 V8, but the 2018 has a different block with plasma cylinder walls instead of iron sleeves, different compression ratio, 12:1 vs 10.5:1, different heads with larger valves, different intake cams, different fuel injection system with both port AND direct injection, different intake manifold, different displacement, 307 CI vs 302. Your 2016 is a gen 2 Coyote. The best they ever made. 2018-2020 is the gen 3. It makes more power and gets better mileage, but has a whole host of problems yours doesnt have. The 2021+ Coyote, known as gen 4, is even a bigger disaster with a belt driven oil pump and cylinder deactivation. Hang on to your 2016 my friend. Its a far better engine than the crap they are making now.
@@craigg4246 So what do I do to keep my '18 5.0 with 30K running?
@@u2mister17 #1 thing you can do to keep it running is throw away the Ford maintenance schedule! Use a polyalphaolephin oil, like Amsoil signature series, Shaeffers or Motul, and change it every 3-4000 miles.
I’m surprised there aren’t more starter problems due to the stupid auto start/stop feature.
Brush holder assembly for the braided wire.5.00 part.The solenoid is a 15.00 to 20.00 part.
Sure, nobody stocks the stuff locally. Even online places, they are hard to find. Find some other part like a bad bushing and its not worth my time. Wing a $150 New OEM starter purchased online and call it good for the next 5-10 years.
My dad has an F150 with that engine. He sweares by it. Great engine!
It is a great engine indeed
Just this one and others like it this year has this issue
@@FordBossMe his is a 2018 as well with zero issues.
He even installed a supercharger lol.
It’s crazy how all these newer cars burn oil, It’s not only ford either many have the same problem
Another example of the lack of ford to install sufficient splash shields in the wheelwells. They have always done this and it leads to rotted exhaust manifolds, steering shafts and starters and wiring. It really wouldn’t cost them much to add some rubber splash shields……
Wait wait wait
Customers complain about all the shields and now your complaining lack there of ...... Oiy vay
Should have a cover under but wasn't opted for
56 K MILES and Needs a "NEW ENGINE" What in the Name of FORD Is Going on Here??? Sorry for my Late comment, I just Signed up to the Channel. GREAT CHANNEL TOO!!!!
A 2018 with a tsb that replaces the engine? Wtf? Sounds like a recall to me
Great video. Took me a little less than hour to swap mine.
I would have disconnected it put a rubber shirk wrap on and and gob on a bunch of flex seal.
Are you serious? That happens after 20 years. I had them turn to dust. I rub ceramic brake grease into it now. No issues;
Die electric grease or surface shield works wonders
Curious to see the connection on the end of the braided wire inside the starter. If just a simple nut connection to a stud, may be possible to replace corroded wire.
That goes deep into the motor assembly. Doubt it's worth it to tear it apart that far, unless you like to rebuild motors.
my 2019 just died of the slow crank when hot issue. replaced starter last night. braid still looks new, so some other problem with mine. just barely past warranty.
Yup. Ford just had my '18 3.5 for 4 days. They found the starter at fault. Only has 40K on it.
I was thinking about upgrading from my 2017. Maybe I should just keep it a while longer...
A LOT longer!
I don't have time to watch the video this second but I have to ask. Is it auto-start-stop? All of AAA light service 150s have this, these trucks are doing two or three starters per year. These trucks are running 24/7, having only 1.5 hours of downtime per day per vehicle. And most of the time, the engine is still idling during this 1.5 hours. Most AAA vehicles have more hours on the meter than miles on the odometer. But they all work in the city so it's constant start stop start stop start stop
Yep
I absolutely hate that auto start/stop on my 2018 F150. I always hit the button to disable it every time I start the truck. If I eventually wear out that button, it will certainly be cheaper than replacing the starter.
@@billybeemus3929 I believe they make aftermarket solutions that make the truck think the button is pressed every time it's keyed on
@@vacexpert2020 - They do, but they cost about $100. I can press a button a lot of times if it means saving $100.
Try too puch dielectric grease that will protect the wire
Slingblade reference, nice😁
56K What a shame. Gives me high hopes for my 20 F150 5.0 Coyote. Guess I should start saving. With 31 K I might add.
My 2018 5.0 has 92,000 on it. 3600 miles into the last oil change I had to add a quart. 1000 miles later had to add a quart and a half. How much does it have to consume before they’ll replace parts of the tsb has already been performed?
It's not a matter of how much it's a matter of you getting it into the dealership to have the kids be done so they can investigate and keep track of how much it's using before they determine whether or not it needs cylinder heads or a complete engine
At 92,000 miles doesnt matter how much oil it burns, no one is going to do anything for you.
Bless the Ford engineer that decided a bolt with a small 10 mm hex head was a good choice to mount the starter with......there is plenty of room for a flange bolt with a 13mm hex head. Add in the corrosion that will certainly form and a simple starter replacement will turn into a nightmare. Ask me how I know this........
Mounting bolts are 13mm
Let us know how the thicker oil and Lucas works! Wonder if that causes less oil consumption? 🤔
I think it won't be until the end of April that I get the truck back when the engine is ready
I find it curious that suddenly between 20 & 21 model years ford suddenly went from 5w-20 to 5w-30 in the coyotes. I have a 21 Mach 1 and attended the track attack. I found out Ford performance racing school uses 5w-50 only in all their coyote cars. Those cars are driven hard and not a single one has the “coyote” tick. They all run like sewing machines at idle, I mean no tick no valve train noise. I might just follow their lead and run 5w-50 as I have to believe it’s not for no reason. Even the 5w-30 I would imagine is for fuel mileage, I know the 5w-20 certainly was.
Ford has done this on and off for years
How does Ford expect to make electric vehicles when they can’t even make a starter last five fucking years
Could you load that braided wire with Dielectric grease or something to prevent this ? 🤛👍
Yes
@@FordBossMe RIGHT on 👍
2128km on 1 litre of oil is still considered normal by the book. For me it's not normal at all and seen that mileage.
So changing the oil at 6000 miles is then useless if it consumes all the oil before the change
You change it by max 5k not 6k anyway
@@FordBossMe my new work is about 8000km each year And about 2000-3000km private distance.
I have to look in the book how far I'm going now with the current oil. I don't think it's 5k miles right now.
Hmmm, a Facebook expert told me that the oil consumption issue was because the dipstick was wrong, and they were not really using oil, but a buddy of mine had one that would use 4 quarts in 5k also, dealership would change oil at 5k and only get one quart out of it when draining. Don't listen to FB experts people is what I'm trying to say. Also, Ford was allowing it to use 1 quart per 1k miles before making it a recall at the time, is this still the case, if so, bad move on Ford, I wanted a 5.0, but went with the 2.7 for this reason, good idea or not, I don't know, but I'm happy with the 2.7.
2.7 is the most reliable so far in the older ones
Yeah Facebook experts blow
a 3 year old truck needs a starter and a motor??
I mean clear as day that's what the video was made for so I'm not making it up
Good think it wasn't a Kia Theta2 you have to burn a quart or more every thousand miles for it to fail. Luckily mine ate a valve 4 hours after they changed the oil to start the test because I was measuring about a quart for every 1200 miles. Curious as to what the consumption number is for a Ford thousand mile oil consumption test?
My 2018 5.0 is eating 4qts per 5K miles now. The engine sounds awful- like a diesel, piston slap, knocking, typewriter tick, chirping, and the VCT deceleration rattle!! :) Why did her engine need to be replaced?
For the same reasons
I’m dealing with my starter as well for mg 2017 GT350R the wire from solenoid popped off and ya lol only 5k miles.
Why are those wires exposed like that ? It's just going to do it agin eventual
You think that maybe spraying the one end of the starter with Fluid-Film or something like that would at least slow that corrosion down?
Doesn't need fluid film
Die electric will keep the moisture out but fluid film or even better surface shiped would work to
About 30 people have commented this and I have answered
Yes i think id put some elec grease on that starter gone with 2 yrs on it noway