Ford F-150 No Crank No Start: Engine Starter Motor Diagnostic Walkthrough!
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- In this video we show you in detail how to diagnose a faulty starter on your Ford F-150.
The only remanufactured starters I Recommend: (check fitment guide)
amzn.to/3slXgjZ
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Ford F-150 Start Replacement Walkthrough-
• Ford F-150 Starter Rep...
My Ford Specialty Shop: BSG Automotive-
www.bsgautomotive.com
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
The only remanufactured starters I Recommend: (check fitment guide)
amzn.to/3slXgjZ
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I just received a message to text you with a phone number included. Was that you ?
@@Mudslingr Those are always scammers, never text them.
@@DonziGT230 crazy! I've been receiving those response messages "send me a text" message for a little while and they're pretending to be the channel owner!
I think they're trying to farm phone numbers so they can call you or send you crazy texts marketing something directly to your phone.
@@xr500t When you see them, even if not directed at you, click on the three little dots to the right of their comment and report it as spam, YT will kill it.
@@Mudslingr that was a scam a lot u tube channels have this going on. Don’t respond to them or give any information. They even say you won or will receive a gift ignore them.
I had a 2003 Expedition (basically an F-150) and had a No crank/No Start situation, and thankfully found out via UA-cam what the problem was. I immediately thought it was the starter, but after testing determined the starter wasn't being commanded. It turned out to be the starter relay in passenger side fuse box. I think it was a video by Eric O.
You two have saved me soooo much time and money! Keep doing what you do!
Thanks. Now I know where to look when my 03 Expedition ever develops the problem.
Man, you are genuinely a class act. My old man was a Jedi-level mechanic & no matter how many tricks/tips he taught me, he always had more. The depth of knowledge you possess, & your willingness (enthusiasm, even) to help out anyone to find your YT channel - free of charge - while simultaneously running a FT Ford shop, shows the hallmarks of remarkable, ethical, generous human being. Thank you.
I've been soaking up as much of your knowledge & advice as I can find for my 2012 F150 STX (2WD). I don't think my skill level is up to the trans cooler lines replacement, but just having the heads-up info that they're essentially a must-do fix, rather than blowing up the damn trans on the side of the road (not to mention thousands of dollars to fix) is awesome.
Good vid Brian. I know you touched on it but voltage drop on the power feed is my go-to when dealing with nc/ns issues. Every rookie tech NEEDS to know how to do a voltage drop test on a starter circuit. Keep up the good work brotha!
You're videos really are the best, seriously how could it get any better. You take us through the entire troubleshoot process from start to finish. For me it was indeed the starter! Just got it out of the truck, new starter is arriving in 2 days. Really this video is like dummy proof, that's how good it is. Again, huge thumbs up from me. You've helped me out for literally years now. Man I swear it's been like 8 years at least. Huge props to you once again.
Brian,thank you for your time and knowledge as you help so many people.I pray for Gods blessings and protection for you ,your family and your business.
One of the best videos on this subject I've seen. I learned a ton and should be able to figure out my issues.
Amazing videos as always. Here I was preparing to do a starter replacement and it was just a battery terminal that worked itself loose! Had enough juice to flip relays and turn on lights but not enough for the starter! You saved my bacon!
Excellent video- very clear. Even I can understand what to do when I check my dead 2004 F150 stuck at Rite Aid. Thanks Brian! This info is exactly what I needed.
Good morning and thank you for all of the information that you share with us!
You're such an excellent teacher. The best teachers are always about the details. Thank you.
Awesome tips. There's a lot of things that happen before the starter engages. Thanks!
Really clear, concise and thorough video. 👌
Nice detailed description and demonstration of how to approach this condition.
Brian is the Guru when it comes to pickup trucks and everything else late model Ford.
Great video Brian..
I teach aircraft maintenance and this is exactly how I teach troubleshooting. Divide the system by control and actuation then identify and isolate paths on a schematic. Or you can use the good ole KISS (Keep It Simple and Stupid) method where you start at one end or the other and go from there.
Where do you teach? Aviation maintenance.
What a complete and concise video. Im going under the hood after work today
Friend of mine was changing his starter in Autozone parking lot, didnt take the positive cable off the starter and when he double wrenched the hot wire breaking the nut loose the wrench hit the oil pan blowing about a 3/8” hole in it😂. They sold “flex tape” so he cleaned the pan and put an X patch on it thats still there today lol
While removing an oil filter from a 1MZ-FE engine, the end of the filter wrench handle touched the exposed B+ post on the alternator (the usual rubber cover was off) and a spark flew to one of the AC lines, cutting it but not causing a blowout. Since then I made a mental note to always disconnect the -ve battery terminal whenever I'm working and DON'T need the battery connected.
_A_
Least the fucker coulda done was JB Weld a hunk of sheet metal over the hole. That shit would prolly be a lifetime repair. I'd shit my knickers just a touch every time I hit the key with Flex Tape, bro.
When you said “autozone” I stopped reading 😂
Great video and very informative as always!
What would I try next if my Ford still isn't starting and awesome video. Really helpful, thank you
Good on ya mate excellent job with the channel. Keep up the good work. All the best from Melbourne Australia
You're a very good human.... I love you, and thank you very much.
Waiting for more videos.
Monitoring the voltage at the main starter cable at the starter while cranking or attempting to crank is the best test of the cable itself after preliminary checks per your process..An amp clamp to determine actual starter amps is good info also.
This is gold thank you for posting this!
Good Job sir. Very much appreciate your dedication and ethic.
Brother what a great video. Your truly the man
Had that issue with my 1998 Lincoln Town Car. Found that one of the fuses for the DTR circuit blew. Good stuff, here. Thanks again.
I have a GM of that year. Your column shifter bushings and sometimes the Transmission Safety switch can cause a no-start. Sometimes you can start in N, or wiggling the shifter. Also if you live in a salty area, replace the transmission shift/pull cable. It can snap at a very inconvenient time.
Quite literally the best video ever! Thank you so much!
Followed along as I worked through a no crank problem on my 2009 F150. I was actually excited to see power to the s terminal! Swapped in a new starter and she’s good to go. Thanks for posting!!
Are you 4.6l?
My 2013 F150 5.0 liter has the no crank, no start issue. In a few hours I will be doing everything that you outlined in this very well made, super descriptive video. Thank you for taking the time to make this! I hope I have a simple fix like the starter!
what was it? starter relay or leadframe?
What was it
@@user-sg2yt6nc1z It turned out to be the PCM. After watching tons of videos and doing troubleshooting where I didn't even need to, I did pin point tests of the PCM's circuits. There was no 5 volt reference output.I bought a used PCM online that was programmed to my truck's VIN. I installed it and then had to use ForScan to initialize the PCM so the PATS and keys would work. It's been working fine since January. It was a real PITA working outside in the winter. Now I have a bad ABS pump Code 1440-20 ! A typical Ford. lol.
@@user-sg2yt6nc1z As per one of the UA-cam videos, I cleaned many ground strap connections, some at the PCM and especially the ones under the truck that connect from body to frame. I suspect in my case, the PCM was not getting correct voltages and it may have burned out the 5 volts reference in the PCM. Just a guess.
Great video,very informative,sorted my F150 thanks to this video,cheers.
Thanks a Lot Again Amigo FordTechMakuloco, Superb Helpful Video Tutorial!!, May God Bless You...
Man you saved me a lot of time. Great video 👌
Very well explained.. Thank you a lot.. definitely subscribed for future problems 🤘 thank again for breaking everything down to layman terms for a non mechanic
Good morning Brian another great presentation great video.Peace n Love..
Great video, thanks Brian 👍😁
Very informative. Thank you !
Thank you for the great detailed video 😎🕺💪
Thanks for the vid, sir! Lots of food for thought!
You are the best.. good good stuff!!! Thanks for the knowledge
Great video! Well done!
We had similar issues on our 2016 Expedition (Key on no crank). We also had other issues like the climate system not working right, the power lift tailgate opening, but refused to close, power running boards going down, but not up, etc. This all lead up to the Key On No Crank, by the way, this was with the engine running! Even more was happening, but...yea. Talked to two different techs that were highly recommended by friends, and both said "Yikes, this sounds like the PCM lost it's mind". Tow truck comes out, he says "Lets try it...FIRES RIGHT UP". We did the whole disconnect negative battery cable for 10 or 15 minutes, etc., but nothing. He didn't even hook a jump box, just fired up. Got it home, worked great for a week or two, but we had an appointment for it to be looked at. Day comes to take the thing in...NO CRANK NO START. Tow Truck comes out, he throws a jump pack and Robert's your mother's brother it fires up.
Long story short? BATTERY! The battery tested good just a week prior to the issues...it was all the battery. :( Battery had full voltage, but the amps weren't there and the PCM said "Don't even try".
That's a good story. Most people get mad at me and don't believe me when I tell them their battery is probably bad.
When weird stuff like that happens I have learned thar most of the time the battery is failing or there is a loose cable. At least on computerized cars. I've seen a lot of crazy things happen because of low amps. Always load test, not just volt test
@@rays7437 Batteries play a massive role today. My 1999 Tahoe doesn't care at all, but these newer vehicles? Yikes. They also don't like old school battery chargers AT ALL. My 1999 Tahoe is just plug the 1975 Battery Charger onto the positive and ground and wait. The 2016 Expedition was "WHOA, WHAT ARE YOU DOING" and I saw the darn meter swing max current to 0 multiple times in a few seconds. At that point I said "Nope, tow truck it is". LOL...
@@WreckDiver99
And batteries aren't as good as before. Before, batteries were 50 pound monsters. Most cars now have compact batteries that fail when one cell goes bad. If a cell collapsed in an old style battery, it didn't kill it because the cells had room inside and didn't contact other cells if they collapsed
Great tutorial Brian
Great pre check info. I did not know about the changing pats light on dash.
Great video Brian!! Thanks!!
Welcome back Brian.
well done thanks for sharing. keep up the good work.
Heat soaked starters are fun. Had one on a 2008 Explorer. After driving for 30 mins, and turning it off, the Explorer would not restart and simulated the starter being out completely. After it cooled off it would start.
Excellent presentation.
Truly amazing video!! For us DIY mechanics - your knowledge share is amazing. Thank you so much!!
Literally the “right key” part of this video just saved me the price of a new battery 🎉
Very good instructions. Thanks.
A bad starter power cable bit me. Didn't put any current draw on it that would have saved me money. Thanks for the videos
even your basic video's are so informative. I absolutely love your videos. hats off to you my fellow auto tech.
Awesome stuff for sure
Great explanation.
Great information thanks for sharing
Good diagnostic steps.
Thank you and well done !
Great vid as usual !! My 06 had bad connections at the starter relay and the "relay" box is no longer avail from ford--any suggestions? thxs
Fantastic. Can't thank you enough!
Very thorough and easy to understand explanation . The video shots of the starter were clearly visible.
Outstanding! 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
FordTechMakuSmarter
Thanks for the videos! Any Forscan videos in the future?
Keep up the good work
Thank you for the helpful video diagnosis for no crank. I have a 2015 f150 with p2535 code. I have inspected all my electrical connections, battery is good. My fuel mpg has dropped greatly. Truck still starts and runs okay. No other codes. Can you recommend any procedure to follow for a diagnoses. Thank you for all you’re helpful videos.
Thanks for the video 👍🏼
Thorough testing makes for proper repair/replacement.
Good one.
Fantastic information!
Thank you learned a lot
Great video
Great info thank you.
I did a starter on my 05 f150 last year. This being an 06 makes sense the starter went this year. It's like this stuff is programmed to fail at a certain time.
Amazing video very detailed
Good information
Very good video! I have a 2010 F150 that is no crank no start. I can hear both the relays in the passenger kick well and the relay under the hood click when I turn the key but after testing the starter is receiving no voltage from that S-bend when the key is in the crank position. Is there anything it could be beside a bad wire?
Again Thank you ! You Rock ❤
I did have no crank from bad ground connection to starter motor. That ground wire is also grounding engine block and remaining grounds will be through body ground. So, there will be no good grounding to starter motor if ground connection to starter motor fails. I found grounding issue when I was hitting on starter motor while having someone else turn the key. As I was hitting starter motor there was arcing from ground connection, that is when I realized it is bad ground issue.
has to be a no start if it is a no crank! 😂your vids are very well done.
It's how we word it in the service business because there is more than one type of no start situation. "No crank" as opposed to "crank" no start. But yeah I always thought it was funny
great video. Thanks!
Thank you.
I love your program. I live in Southern California and have a 2010 F150 Platinum with 207k miles on it. It runs great. In bought it used two years ago and I don’t know or think there has been a service on the timing chains.
Don’t want to take it to a dealer, do you know of any good shops in SD, OC or Riverside Counties. Thanks
Just found your video. Wish I had found it earlier. Intermittent no crank. 2001 Ranger 3.0L 4x4 Edge. New starter, new battery, new ignition relay and new ignition switch. Passes PATS. Wiggling key or moving tilt steering will crank and start. Don’t think it’s the lock cylinder. Maybe cracked ignition actuator. Thoughts?
So I followed your instruction, up to hooking up a meter , since I heard the clicking in the cab. Went for a start, but no voltage being sent to starter from ignition. Do you have any advice on where to go next?
Thank you
Brian I have an 03 expedition, replaced the battery, the alternator, starter, fuel pump, and recently the fuse box as I had crank no start and fuel pump relay was burnt. I'm still getting an issue where the starter spins when I try starting the truck and sometimes It takes 2 times to start. Could it be the crank position sensor? I also have another issue where I have a misfire in cylinder #1 that comes and goes. Was off for over a week and came back for like 2 minutes on start up and went away again. Spark plug is clean, no coolant, no milky oil, no over heating, doubt it's a head gasket. Replaced plugs and coils recently. Getting p0301 and p0316. Swapped coils and Injectors and it still came back. Don't know what it could be. Truck runs amazing super smooth, no jerking, no crazy misfire or weird noises, plenty of power when giving it gas. Been well maintained aswell.
Good morning sir, what would happen if you short the 2 big studs positive and negative on the starter? Would the engine start or would the starter motor just spin and not engage the engine flywheel? I forgot already. Thank you for your time!
Hi, I have 2008 Mercury mountaineer couple months or so ago I went overseas when I came back mountaineer first to start normally but then after a few days I start having different lights coming on dashboard such as ABS light traction light engine light a mechanic told me it was a security module went bad on it replaced with a used one but it still didn't solved the issue just trying to see if you have any thoughts on it
Thanks for the info 🎃
thank you
Went to buy a new starter but it was updated (from 11 teeth to 10 teeth) as the dealership claims. What's your take on that? No long term affect despite different number of teeth ?
Fusion 2016 2.5l
Thanks man for all your videos. If you can help me, I replaced today battery for my ford expedition 2013 it was only hard start without any issues, after replacing battery now can't drive , no rpm response and if try accelerate got shut down, thanks again , I will appreciate yor advise
At 18:34 you speak of voltage to the solenoid at crank. What if there is no voltage at crank? Pulled starter and had it bench tested. Passed. Checked all fuses, starter relay is good. I changed the ignition switch and that wasn’t the problem guess I’ll try changing the NSS next? 2007 f150 with 4.6L. Thanks for the videos.
@fordtechmakuloco i have the clicking then fast clicking then weak cranks, But sometimes it starts after 2/3 tries. Could that be battery or just need a new starter? Battery seems strong tho , but i will test it.
My no start no crank When I put the key in and wiggle it my PRND lights flicker. Is that a ignition switch issue or in the cylinder itself? 2011 f150 thanks for any help… love the channel !!
Suggestions please. I’m working with a 2004 F150 5.4L . Starter/Bendix faulty, wouldn’t engage flywheel . Replaced starter with oem everything checks out up to relay giving me a click sound. No sound or click from starter. Check battery voltage. It is good checked connections. It’s good checked started relay with my multimeter it is good. All connections are correct and good and clean no corrosion but again turn key over and I only get a click from the relay passenger side panel.
Good video! One question: Are starter solenoids replaceable these days? How about testing the solenoid to make sure it is actually sending voltage to the other large starter terminal? Thanks!
This is my question too. I guess I’ll be moving into the next video about replacing starters to figure it out before ordering.
I had a very high mileage starter that was parading itself as a weak battery. It turns out that the starter was so caked with carbon that it was preventing the starter from spinning freely and creating drag? And causing the starter to draw a lot of amps ultimately draining the battery as well. Anyway, I ended up rebuilding the starter myself and she spun nicely after that too bad I ended up buying a battery ahead thinking it was a dying battery!
Hey my friend, I have a 2005 F-150 5.4 triton that I changed the starter in. I took it for a little drive and when I was pulling back in my driveway the truck quit and wouldn’t crank. I put jumper cables on and still no start. I can hear the relay kicking in but I did notice smoke coming up from the passenger side where the starter is. I turned the key to the crank position and again noticed smoke coming up. It smells electrical. I put a used starter in in place of the original cuz I got the same reaction from the old one. Could I be getting a short down at the starter and why would the engine just quit cuz of what I explained? I appreciate your input.