I’m not a pro with the bike engines but I have a lot of engine experience. I got my first bike engine a few months ago and it’s never ran right even after trying 3 different carbs and I know how to jet and tune. I tuned al carbs good but would lean out on top end no matter what. So I took the engine apart to inspect it and one of the crank seals was not sealing literally the seal wasn’t making contact to the crankshaft so there was a vacuum leak this is why I couldn’t get the engine to make good power. IMO i would only take off the inner seal of the crank bearing so the other seal will seal crankcase pressures. I have new crank seals coming but if they are like the old one they won’t seal. I wish there was a website that sold high performance parts for these engines because all the stuff is really crappy. My engine didn’t even have any shims to correct end play.
Thanks, some good information. I noticed that the bearing that is shown in the last part of the video is in the drive sprocket area, and had no seal. I take it that you're aware of that? The possibility for contamination of the bearing race in a location like that with the chain carrying all kinds of grit, etc into that area is about 100%...
Thanks for the video, my 80cc engine's crank bearings are pressed onto the crankshaft not into the case like the clutch bearings so I guess I will need to go to a machine shop to get them changed over, have you seen this design before?
Finally a video from someone with an IQ higher than his shoe size >> Thank you Juice for this very, very informative video I worked on well pumps for over 25 years the bearing they made back in the day were sealed in stainless and lasted much longer than the rubber sealed one of today Not to mention they were sooo much smoother It is so hard to find the old school bearings today
Do i need to purchase sealed and open bearings. I'm confused. The main bearing looks open and the others look sealed. One website (bearings r us) states: "Choose from open, sealed (2RS) or shielded (2Z) designations. C3 - Bearing internal clearance greater than normal."
they are the same bearing you just pull the sealing of the bearing with a pick or whatever you can use but the bearings you are getting should look all the same becouse they are the same
Take some heat, heat the engine case up and leave the bearings overnight in the freezer. also dont use skf, it has way too much play, use snh if avaivable but skf would work. Never hammer bearings into your engine and if you have to just start with a big block of wood over your bearing and then take a nut the size of the outer ring and slowly make it your way. Also always get your crankshaft trued and balanced or replace it with a already balanced one. My crank has 1/2mm bending. Also if avaible get brown viton sealrings. I didnt do many bicycle engine kits but i buult 20hp+ moped engines(standard 3.5hp)
I remove the seal from the bearing on the two faces towards the inside of the crank case and leave the two outer seals in place, I also leave both seals in the bearings that the clutch shaft runs on to stop contamination of dirt into the bearing.
You will need to press them out with an arbor press. OR heat up the area around the bearing without heating up the bearing itself and try to knock out the bearing.
Crank shaft can become encrusted with rust etc thus not allowing the bearing to slide off it off In this case I use a dremel and CAREFULLY sand the rust using a worn out sandpaper bit then spray a bit of "CLP Break Free lube "god like stuff I.M.H.O." then I take two screwdrivers and CAREFULLY pop it off as you sand it this will also distribute a small amount of heat helping free the bearing as well. Persistance is key!! Be very care not to take any metal off the crank
should also say if you heat it up move fast to get the bearing out as the aluminum tends to expand when heated If you have access to a walmart or parts store there is this stuff called "CLP" it is a miracle liquid for freeing up stuck anythings Stay away from WD-40 so many people think it is a lubricant when it is the exact opposite
Hey i put a new bevel and new clutch shaft and a new crank sproket but i was only able to take one side of the clutch bearings out so the crank sproket side bearings are old but the clutch shaft bearings are new is that fine
the bearing on my engine had to piece of shit itself and my engine dont run right i put propain towards my crank seals and the engine eather revs up or stalls indicating leaks from the junk worn out bearings most likely due to the timing not being right or cheap bearings
What we need is a bearing removal video.
I’m not a pro with the bike engines but I have a lot of engine experience. I got my first bike engine a few months ago and it’s never ran right even after trying 3 different carbs and I know how to jet and tune. I tuned al carbs good but would lean out on top end no matter what. So I took the engine apart to inspect it and one of the crank seals was not sealing literally the seal wasn’t making contact to the crankshaft so there was a vacuum leak this is why I couldn’t get the engine to make good power. IMO i would only take off the inner seal of the crank bearing so the other seal will seal crankcase pressures. I have new crank seals coming but if they are like the old one they won’t seal. I wish there was a website that sold high performance parts for these engines because all the stuff is really crappy. My engine didn’t even have any shims to correct end play.
Thanks, some good information. I noticed that the bearing that is shown in the last part of the video is in the drive sprocket area, and had no seal. I take it that you're aware of that? The possibility for contamination of the bearing race in a location like that with the chain carrying all kinds of grit, etc into that area is about 100%...
Thanks for the video, my 80cc engine's crank bearings are pressed onto the crankshaft not into the case like the clutch bearings so I guess I will need to go to a machine shop to get them changed over, have you seen this design before?
Finally a video from someone with an IQ higher than his shoe size >> Thank you Juice for this very, very informative video I worked on well pumps for over 25 years the bearing they made back in the day were sealed in stainless and lasted much longer than the rubber sealed one of today Not to mention they were sooo much smoother It is so hard to find the old school bearings today
Do i need to purchase sealed and open bearings. I'm confused. The main bearing looks open and the others look sealed. One website (bearings r us) states: "Choose from open, sealed (2RS) or shielded (2Z) designations.
C3 - Bearing internal clearance greater than normal."
What about this www.bearingsrus.co.uk/6202-2rs-c3-skf
they are the same bearing you just pull the sealing of the bearing with a pick or whatever you can use but the bearings you are getting should look all the same becouse they are the same
So if I removed the clutch bearing seal and filled the shaft chamber with red n tacky would it help or hurt?
I was wondering if you could tell me why bearings fall out the bucking bar, when I was gone grease the bucking bar?
Take some heat, heat the engine case up and leave the bearings overnight in the freezer. also dont use skf, it has way too much play, use snh if avaivable but skf would work. Never hammer bearings into your engine and if you have to just start with a big block of wood over your bearing and then take a nut the size of the outer ring and slowly make it your way.
Also always get your crankshaft trued and balanced or replace it with a already balanced one. My crank has 1/2mm bending.
Also if avaible get brown viton sealrings.
I didnt do many bicycle engine kits but i buult 20hp+ moped engines(standard 3.5hp)
Cool advice do you remove the rubber from both sides of the bearings or just the side facing the inside of the engine
I remove the seal from the bearing on the two faces towards the inside of the crank case and leave the two outer seals in place, I also leave both seals in the bearings that the clutch shaft runs on to stop contamination of dirt into the bearing.
@@madeljacky thanks for the info sir stay safe
@@mikemiller3303 no problem Mike, glad I could be of help.
Are these bearings the same on all these types of bicycle 2-strokes? (49cc, 66cc etc...)
Removed and installed new bearings. Now the crankcase wont seal back together. There is an 8th in gap between the 2 halves that won't close.
Can you please paste a link for these bearings? I type it in and get varied results in google.
You will need to press them out with an arbor press. OR heat up the area around the bearing without heating up the bearing itself and try to knock out the bearing.
HELP ASAP WHAT SIZE R THAY 11MM OR WHAT THER SO MANNY KIND HELP
where can I get the skf bearings from?
What's that press called again?
Crank shaft can become encrusted with rust etc thus not allowing the bearing to slide off it off In this case I use a dremel and CAREFULLY sand the rust using a worn out sandpaper bit then spray a bit of "CLP Break Free lube "god like stuff I.M.H.O." then I take two screwdrivers and CAREFULLY pop it off as you sand it this will also distribute a small amount of heat helping free the bearing as well. Persistance is key!! Be very care not to take any metal off the crank
That ball ball bearing inside the clutch arm what size is that plz reply
8mm
Also people, I want to mention / recomend a bearing removal tool!!!! Yoj can buy them or even rent them from a part store!
My bearing is stuck onto the crank. Do you know how to get it off. Thanks
Idk Drill press, dremel, hammer, hydraulic press whatever you got on hand
Could you tell me what would cause a high pitched metallic (scraping) sound in a bicycle motor?
That's normal for your type of engine it's called" The Rebel Yell"
main bearing or clutch bearing grinding to crap or cylinder walls scored
What about the main connecting rod bearing?
are the bearings good for a GT5A skyhawk ?
How to remove seals?
just take like a pick and you should get it with that
Is it 2 stroke engine or 4 stroke engine?
2
should also say if you heat it up move fast to get the bearing out as the aluminum tends to expand when heated If you have access to a walmart or parts store there is this stuff called "CLP" it is a miracle liquid for freeing up stuck anythings Stay away from WD-40 so many people think it is a lubricant when it is the exact opposite
I put new threads in it for the cilinderstuds....
@jumpa01 man I tried everything. I took it to tafe and we used a oxy cutter to heat it up a lot and didn't even budge. Thanks for the advise anyway.
10$ for one bearing. EBay 5$ a piece. Paid 27$ for four with 2 day UPS shipping. 6202 2RSH C3 is same bearing dimensions.
You always want to hit the bearing into the case by the outer edge or the race, never hit the inside of the bearing dude.
what about a good C-clamp works great with a hair dryer so eveything goes to gether easy becouse that is what you want
No Prob, any time, and if you need any help with your engine assembly/repairs just hit us up!
Hey i put a new bevel and new clutch shaft and a new crank sproket but i was only able to take one side of the clutch bearings out so the crank sproket side bearings are old but the clutch shaft bearings are new is that fine
You forgot to remove the rubber seal
the bearing on my engine had to piece of shit itself and my engine dont run right i put propain towards my crank seals and the engine eather revs up or stalls indicating leaks from the junk worn out bearings most likely due to the timing not being right or cheap bearings
What the fuck.... rs bearings in an engine....so the oil mixture cant lubricate the bearings..... go to scool man.... u give me an headace...
He said that you need to take the seal out