This video was sponsored by CST Bearing Co. They were kind enough to provide the SKF bearings (6202-2RSH-C3) that are used in this video. cstbearings.com/products cstbearings.com/contact-us
When installing the new bearings, toss them in the freezer for an hour so they shrink a little. Wipe a drop of 2 stroke oil in the bores to lube the entry and seating. Heating the cases would help too, but aluminum castings that light could distort, so if you live somewhere hot and sunny, just let them "sunbathe" for the same time your bearings freeze. In other environs, set them above an incandescent light. Warm to the touch, not too hot to handle. Pressing will be MUCH easier, so less stress on the cases and races. When you do that mallet tapping pre-seating, not a bad idea to support the back of the case with a block of wood too, once again to prevent any distortion, or cracking. Great idea in the busted file tang wedge!! Good quality vid, and good work methodology, well done!
ludditeneaderthalmn thank you for the kind words and feedback.👍 I do think you are right about using a bearing press of some sort for the installation if it's available to avoid any stress on the race.. I would say the objective to the video was to utilize one tool that's small and easy enough to set up for the removal and installation.
ludditeneaderthal, I'm glad you mentioned the distortion issue with the case. Its important for others to know of the potential for damage to these crank cases when under too much stress; Something that I had only given serious thought too after the installation was complete.
Bicycle Motorsports no intention to object to your choice of tooling or techniques, at all. Just figured I'd add to your otherwise superb presentation with the hard earned perspective of experience, so the viewing "noob" might avoid potential pitfalls. Anything that eases potential stress on those rather lightly built cases is a plus to my eyes, and though you did it right, a more ham handed person might run into problems by inexpert copying. Hell, you could give those "experts" at bikeberry lessons on proper presentation and technique, lol. Keep up the good work, UA-cam needs more like you!
I feel that the cold hot method would have been a little better than pounding and pulling. Mind you some might argue that heat might distort the metal but realy you only have to get it up to 250 degrees or so and freeze the bearings. Where did you get the bearing puller ?
Eric McGinnis, I was really wanting to do the hot cold method. Ine thing to consider though is that, you will need a puller safely remove the bearings without damaging the bearing race. One could try and heat the crank case with the bearing still in it but I would imagine that both would expand at the same rate. I had the very same concern that you mentioned about the distortion of the crank case. The aluminum that the crankcase is made of is of low quality. Though 250°f is tolerable for aluminum, I just didn't want to risk it, as that was the only motor I had at the time. I may do a video where I utilize that method. On another note, I think that I may have damaged this crankcase just merely from puling/separating the 2 halves. As I mentioned, the aluminum is of low quality. The bearing puller I purchased on Amazon. There should be a link in the description section of this video.
So, why aren't there any seals put on the main shaft bearings on the outside, to keep oil from leaking out? They have rubber seals on the inside right ?
The Unboxing Authority, Good question. I suppose you could leave the seals on the outside of those bearings. I merely chose to follow the manufacturer default bearing installation. That's all... No seals on the inside facing the crank. The 2-stroke fuel keeps them lubricated.
The Unboxing Authority, I meant no seals on the side of the bearing closest to the crank. It wouldn't seem like it but fuel does work it's way down there and lubes the bearings. If you want to keep a seal on the side of the bearing that touches the wall of the crankcase, that is fine. As I mentioned before, I just default to the way the original manufacturer bearings were installed.
Not to mention you can also make a tool using the threaded rod from that tool, Two very this washers cut from thick steel, and some nuts. I just dont like the way that puller uses pressure on the inner race only!
For anybody that watched him install that bearing. Please, never ever ever ever ever install a bearing into a case by pushing or pulling on the inner race. Use the old bearing, or better yet a bearing installer tool, and apply only pressure to the outer race. Pushing/pulling on the inner race will distort the cage and potentially shorten bearing life.
The bearings come with their own grease already applied. The seals are a point of contention for some. From what ive gathhered other than thats how the orginal bearing come installed, The bearings sit quite flush against the crank case and the crank itself which makes it already a sealed environment for the bearing.. also i suppose it would be okay to leave at least one seal on each of the crank bearings facing the direction of the crankcase.. I personally just follow suit to the way in which the originals were installed. Some say that they will receive lubrication from the residual 2 stroke fuel that may end up in the lower portion of the crankcase. I'll look up some more definitive info on these seals and try to leave a link ina followup reply.
Hello!There was a question, please help. In my crankcase, the crankshaft bearings are closed optional. Should I install additional rubber seals and remove the rubber rings from the bearings? Or I can collect as is, leaving one outside? Thank you. Sorry for bad english
Светлана Лаптева, good question. Just remove the seals from the main bearings only. The two stroke fuel will keep them lubricated. Dont forget to reinstall the rubber seals for the crankcase. Does this answer your question? If not, please get back to me so I can assist you further. Thanks. 👍
To make this easier for you put those bearings in the freezer for about an hour.... then put the two halves of the crankcase in an oven or even out in the sun if you live in a warm climate for around 30 minutes or so not a lot of heat Maybe 150 to 200 degrees if you're using an oven... the bearing will just slide it right in no tools required just tap it in with your rubber hammer and I do mean tap you will not have to hit it hard it should slide right in with your fingers if you got a glove on
Daniel Landberg, you can but not necessary. Theres already a seal outside of the bearing on the crankcase. The bearing seals are easy enough to remove using a pin or small paperclip. Best to just follow suit on how the original bearings were installed.
Daniel Landberg, i dont think the extra seal will hurt anything, but you absolutely want ti make sure that inner facing seal is removed. You'll be relying on the 2 stroke mix to lube the bearings once theure installed and the motor is running.
You would be better off using the rubber mallow because that bearing tool puts all of that pressure on just the inner race! Or so it seems to me! Or use hot verse cold method!
My crank case wont split its opens some at the piston side of the motor but at the clutch side its stiff as hell how do i get that side to come loose???????????
An Unentitled Motivated Millennial, oh boy. This is a common occurence. I had quite a bit of trouble separating the 2 halves myself. I use 2 pry bars as well as 2 combo wrenches (carefully balanced and back to back) then push toward one another, in or to get the 2 separated. You really just have to get creative when doing that.
Bicycle Motorsports thanks i finally got it open some one needs to do a vid on opening a engine for the first time i heard Its the hardest, so i ended up useing the gear puller i threaded the puller on the clutch bar about half the threads then i put the puller piece on so i could hammer on the bar without damaging the threads
An Unentitled Motivated Millennial, yes that's true. You must pry evenly. There no concrete method to separate these halves. As I mentioned, one just has to get creative. Glad to hear you got them separated. 👍
David Townsend, Thanks. If you click the drop-down arrow ⬇️for the Description Box to the rigjt of the title, you will see the CST Bearing Co web address and ebay store ID. 👍
cstbearing, can you provide the details/information on where to get the left, and right side outer crank seals, hopefully we can get an upgraded version of the oe.
Wow, those bearings in the cases at the beginning are not installed correctly- the crank bearings are sealed on the outside, open towards the crank, and the clutch/drive sprocket end can have double seals or be open on the inside, as long as you fill that chamber with good grease.
Huh? The bearings don't need the seals. That's quite literally the function of the crankcase seals, to keep oil and crankcase pressure in the crank case. Most 2 strokes specifically call to use unsealed bearings.
They make a pilot bearing puller that has an adjustment for the legs so you don’t need to hammer that file on the other side. I’m not trying to tell u what to do and be some know it all asshole lol but bearings should always be installed using the outer race you don’t want to put any pressure on the inner race you can damage the bearing. If it didn’t take much force to install like u are doing it would be fine doing it like you are but if it’s a bearing that requires a good amount of force to put in definitely use the outer race to press in plus using the outer race they go in straight every time if you set it up correctly on a press.
This video was sponsored by CST Bearing Co. They were kind enough to provide the SKF bearings (6202-2RSH-C3) that are used in this video.
cstbearings.com/products
cstbearings.com/contact-us
When installing the new bearings, toss them in the freezer for an hour so they shrink a little. Wipe a drop of 2 stroke oil in the bores to lube the entry and seating. Heating the cases would help too, but aluminum castings that light could distort, so if you live somewhere hot and sunny, just let them "sunbathe" for the same time your bearings freeze. In other environs, set them above an incandescent light. Warm to the touch, not too hot to handle. Pressing will be MUCH easier, so less stress on the cases and races. When you do that mallet tapping pre-seating, not a bad idea to support the back of the case with a block of wood too, once again to prevent any distortion, or cracking. Great idea in the busted file tang wedge!! Good quality vid, and good work methodology, well done!
ludditeneaderthalmn thank you for the kind words and feedback.👍
I do think you are right about using a bearing press of some sort for the installation if it's available to avoid any stress on the race..
I would say the objective to the video was to utilize one tool that's small and easy enough to set up for the removal and installation.
ludditeneaderthal, I'm glad you mentioned the distortion issue with the case. Its important for others to know of the potential for damage to these crank cases when under too much stress; Something that I had only given serious thought too after the installation was complete.
Bicycle Motorsports no intention to object to your choice of tooling or techniques, at all. Just figured I'd add to your otherwise superb presentation with the hard earned perspective of experience, so the viewing "noob" might avoid potential pitfalls. Anything that eases potential stress on those rather lightly built cases is a plus to my eyes, and though you did it right, a more ham handed person might run into problems by inexpert copying. Hell, you could give those "experts" at bikeberry lessons on proper presentation and technique, lol. Keep up the good work, UA-cam needs more like you!
ludditeneaderthal, I really appreciate you kind words and also welcome all of your suggestions and comments.
This was so much help as I am knew to the game piecing together engines, thank you
I feel that the cold hot method would have been a little better than pounding and pulling. Mind you some might argue that heat might distort the metal but realy you only have to get it up to 250 degrees or so and freeze the bearings. Where did you get the bearing puller ?
Eric McGinnis,
I was really wanting to do the hot cold method. Ine thing to consider though is that, you will need a puller safely remove the bearings without damaging the bearing race.
One could try and heat the crank case with the bearing still in it but I would imagine that both would expand at the same rate.
I had the very same concern that you mentioned about the distortion of the crank case. The aluminum that the crankcase is made of is of low quality. Though 250°f is tolerable for aluminum, I just didn't want to risk it, as that was the only motor I had at the time. I may do a video where I utilize that method.
On another note, I think that I may have damaged this crankcase just merely from puling/separating the 2 halves. As I mentioned, the aluminum is of low quality.
The bearing puller I purchased on Amazon. There should be a link in the description section of this video.
So, why aren't there any seals put on the main shaft bearings on the outside, to keep oil from leaking out? They have rubber seals on the inside right ?
The Unboxing Authority, Good question. I suppose you could leave the seals on the outside of those bearings. I merely chose to follow the manufacturer default bearing installation. That's all... No seals on the inside facing the crank. The 2-stroke fuel keeps them lubricated.
With the rubber seals on the inside, how does the fuel get there?
The Unboxing Authority, I meant no seals on the side of the bearing closest to the crank. It wouldn't seem like it but fuel does work it's way down there and lubes the bearings. If you want to keep a seal on the side of the bearing that touches the wall of the crankcase, that is fine. As I mentioned before, I just default to the way the original manufacturer bearings were installed.
@@BicycleMotorsports don't they have factory installed grease? Won't that gunk up the motor when it spreads everywhere?
Was it hard to split the case and to remove the crank and clutch parts looking to upgrade all the inners of my motor over the winter
on a scale of 1-10 it was the difficulty of an 8. not easy without a crank splitter. you may need to improvise otherwise.
thanks for the video now i know how to remove the main bearings of my bike engine
Awesome thank you extremely helpfully
Not to mention you can also make a tool using the threaded rod from that tool, Two very this washers cut from thick steel, and some nuts. I just dont like the way that puller uses pressure on the inner race only!
For anybody that watched him install that bearing. Please, never ever ever ever ever install a bearing into a case by pushing or pulling on the inner race. Use the old bearing, or better yet a bearing installer tool, and apply only pressure to the outer race. Pushing/pulling on the inner race will distort the cage and potentially shorten bearing life.
I have missing teeth on the smallest tooth wheel of the two on the right side of the engine, how do you get those peices out?
The bearings come with their own grease already applied.
The seals are a point of contention for some. From what ive gathhered other than thats how the orginal bearing come installed, The bearings sit quite flush against the crank case and the crank itself which makes it already a sealed environment for the bearing.. also i suppose it would be okay to leave at least one seal on each of the crank bearings facing the direction of the crankcase.. I personally just follow suit to the way in which the originals were installed. Some say that they will receive lubrication from the residual 2 stroke fuel that may end up in the lower portion of the crankcase. I'll look up some more definitive info on these seals and try to leave a link ina followup reply.
Hello!There was a question, please help.
In my crankcase, the crankshaft bearings are closed optional.
Should I install additional rubber seals and remove the rubber rings from the bearings? Or I can collect as is, leaving one outside?
Thank you. Sorry for bad english
Светлана Лаптева, good question. Just remove the seals from the main bearings only. The two stroke fuel will keep them lubricated. Dont forget to reinstall the rubber seals for the crankcase. Does this answer your question? If not, please get back to me so I can assist you further. Thanks. 👍
Thank you !
To make this easier for you put those bearings in the freezer for about an hour.... then put the two halves of the crankcase in an oven or even out in the sun if you live in a warm climate for around 30 minutes or so not a lot of heat Maybe 150 to 200 degrees if you're using an oven... the bearing will just slide it right in no tools required just tap it in with your rubber hammer and I do mean tap you will not have to hit it hard it should slide right in with your fingers if you got a glove on
Would it be OK to leave one seal in the bearing facing out board?
Daniel Landberg, you can but not necessary. Theres already a seal outside of the bearing on the crankcase. The bearing seals are easy enough to remove using a pin or small paperclip. Best to just follow suit on how the original bearings were installed.
I was thinking a double seal would help. Iv'e had one come out when replacing magnet rotor. there is now seal retainers on the market.
Daniel Landberg, i dont think the extra seal will hurt anything, but you absolutely want ti make sure that inner facing seal is removed. You'll be relying on the 2 stroke mix to lube the bearings once theure installed and the motor is running.
Hey, how much are each of these bearings?
Dobby HouseElf, approximately $5 each.
You would be better off using the rubber mallow because that bearing tool puts all of that pressure on just the inner race! Or so it seems to me! Or use hot verse cold method!
My crank case wont split its opens some at the piston side of the motor but at the clutch side its stiff as hell how do i get that side to come loose???????????
An Unentitled Motivated Millennial, oh boy. This is a common occurence. I had quite a bit of trouble separating the 2 halves myself. I use 2 pry bars as well as 2 combo wrenches (carefully balanced and back to back) then push toward one another, in or to get the 2 separated. You really just have to get creative when doing that.
Bicycle Motorsports thanks i finally got it open some one needs to do a vid on opening a engine for the first time i heard Its the hardest, so i ended up useing the gear puller i threaded the puller on the clutch bar about half the threads then i put the puller piece on so i could hammer on the bar without damaging the threads
And your tip for back to back is worth mentioning it gets locked up if u pry one side too much
Turns put i got a bad bareing need to order a new one or unseize the old somehow
An Unentitled Motivated Millennial, yes that's true. You must pry evenly. There no concrete method to separate these halves. As I mentioned, one just has to get creative. Glad to hear you got them separated. 👍
I mean for the crank shaft bearings only.
Great video! CST Bearing Co also has a website www.cstbearing.com or you can call us. Thanks for the shout out!
David Townsend, Thanks. If you click the drop-down arrow ⬇️for the Description Box to the rigjt of the title, you will see the CST Bearing Co web address and ebay store ID. 👍
cstbearing, can you provide the details/information on where to get the left, and right side outer crank seals, hopefully we can get an upgraded version of the oe.
Takto môže meniť ložiská len amatér!!!
Wow, those bearings in the cases at the beginning are not installed correctly- the crank bearings are sealed on the outside, open towards the crank, and the clutch/drive sprocket end can have double seals or be open on the inside, as long as you fill that chamber with good grease.
Huh? The bearings don't need the seals. That's quite literally the function of the crankcase seals, to keep oil and crankcase pressure in the crank case. Most 2 strokes specifically call to use unsealed bearings.
u dont used it to put tham in only to pull out brow how o9ld r u
They make a pilot bearing puller that has an adjustment for the legs so you don’t need to hammer that file on the other side.
I’m not trying to tell u what to do and be some know it all asshole lol but bearings should always be installed using the outer race you don’t want to put any pressure on the inner race you can damage the bearing. If it didn’t take much force to install like u are doing it would be fine doing it like you are but if it’s a bearing that requires a good amount of force to put in definitely use the outer race to press in plus using the outer race they go in straight every time if you set it up correctly on a press.
I've seen this before, a would-be mechanic with latex gloves on his hands. Stick to your day job, please.
Works well for me!
o shut up clown looking for like's
Hua that is funny man