The pin for the clutchfork that you were talking about. There is a way if it gets stuck real bad, I had that happen once. You can take the bolts for the clutchplate off via the hole for the starter, you just need to keep spinning the engine to access all the bolts. Then you take the whole clutch with you when you take the bellhousing off. The pin is much easier to get out when its off the car and the clutch isnt in the way.
Ah, very good point, I had one stuck many years ago, a little heat, and a nice slide hammer I was able to get it out. But that is a great back up plan.
Russ, your plan d was my plan a, I removed the top bell housing bolts from the top of the engine as I was, like you, dismantling the engine for removal and had better access from above.
You would have saved so much time, just dropping the engine and suspension out from the bottom. Removing the engine from the front crossmember and reinstalling the front cross member to move the car around your shop. I went through all this on my 1987 944 Turbo, since I didn't have a lift. But on the other hand, I appreciate the scenic route and watching this. FYI, before you reinstall the bell housing, open the hole for the 2 sensors to a slot (cut/trim), that way in the future, if the bell housing needs to be removed, the sensors are not disturbed. It's a quick and easy mod.
Hi Daniel, I'm still debating up or down on the engine. I think you're right, going down would save a lot of time. Also, brilliant idea about cutting out that small piece of casting. I Normally won't modify anything like that. I'm a bit of a purist. But that is a great idea. Thanks!
@@EuropeanAutoCraftStudios I went out the top with the engine on my 1988 944 turbo. I was taking a lot of photographs as I un-layered the engine, so I could have a reference as to how everything goes back together when reassembly begins. When I got the bell housing off, 3 of the 9 cheese head bolts were already stripped by the previous owner. I tried drilling one out laying on my back with the car on jack stands without much success. I left the clutch on the engine when I pulled it out and drilled out the bolt heads with the engine on the hoist. I was able to remove the flywheel bolts easily with just an impact wrench. While in principle I try to adhere to originality in restoring this vehicle, I have taken some liberties with the engine by stroking the engine to 2.8l (as in Clark’s garage) and installing a Vitesse stage 4 turbo package to modernize the ignition system based on maf and map sensors. Oh well, so much for authenticity!
The pin for the clutchfork that you were talking about. There is a way if it gets stuck real bad, I had that happen once. You can take the bolts for the clutchplate off via the hole for the starter, you just need to keep spinning the engine to access all the bolts. Then you take the whole clutch with you when you take the bellhousing off. The pin is much easier to get out when its off the car and the clutch isnt in the way.
Ah, very good point, I had one stuck many years ago, a little heat, and a nice slide hammer I was able to get it out. But that is a great back up plan.
Russ, your plan d was my plan a, I removed the top bell housing bolts from the top of the engine as I was, like you, dismantling the engine for removal and had better access from above.
I was thinking I was going to do that while I was up there getting the sensor bracket off then completely forgot about it!
You would have saved so much time, just dropping the engine and suspension out from the bottom. Removing the engine from the front crossmember and reinstalling the front cross member to move the car around your shop. I went through all this on my 1987 944 Turbo, since I didn't have a lift. But on the other hand, I appreciate the scenic route and watching this. FYI, before you reinstall the bell housing, open the hole for the 2 sensors to a slot (cut/trim), that way in the future, if the bell housing needs to be removed, the sensors are not disturbed. It's a quick and easy mod.
Hi Daniel, I'm still debating up or down on the engine. I think you're right, going down would save a lot of time. Also, brilliant idea about cutting out that small piece of casting. I Normally won't modify anything like that. I'm a bit of a purist. But that is a great idea. Thanks!
@@EuropeanAutoCraftStudios I went out the top with the engine on my 1988 944 turbo. I was taking a lot of photographs as I un-layered the engine, so I could have a reference as to how everything goes back together when reassembly begins. When I got the bell housing off, 3 of the 9 cheese head bolts were already stripped by the previous owner. I tried drilling one out laying on my back with the car on jack stands without much success. I left the clutch on the engine when I pulled it out and drilled out the bolt heads with the engine on the hoist. I was able to remove the flywheel bolts easily with just an impact wrench. While in principle I try to adhere to originality in restoring this vehicle, I have taken some liberties with the engine by stroking the engine to 2.8l (as in Clark’s garage) and installing a Vitesse stage 4 turbo package to modernize the ignition system based on maf and map sensors. Oh well, so much for authenticity!
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