This clutch job is staring me in the face on my 1986 944NA. Your video gives me the confidence that I can do this job myself. This is easily the best video on this procedure on UA-cam. Thank you for your clear and concise breakdown of this difficult job. Much appreciated!
I've owned 4 944's. Did my first clutch job as an engineering student back in 1994. Did my last one 2020, sponsored by Covid-19. Did a lot more than was necessary. Removed the majority of the running gear and refinished everything. Now, all the items no one can see look great!😁
You have my respect... This is the most detailed & informative instructional video that I have had the pleasure of watching in a long time! Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and post all of the finer details in completing such a job. I tip my hat to you!
Watched your video again in preparation of motor and transaxle replacement. I watched the very end this time and enjoyed the tunnel drive part! Great videos BTW. Thank You!
Great video, Van. These videos are the ones that encourage me to work on my car, which I've been doing more and more. Occasionally, there's a small disaster that I have to take in to be cleaned up, but I learn every time, and the ensuing job always seems a little bit easier. Thanks for keeping up the videos, Van. Monte Olsen
Great video. My one additional tip is that jacking up the front of the engine will greatly facilitate taking the bellhousing off (and re-installing it). Then lowering it to get better access to the speed sensors and other details on top of the bellhousing - so tilt the engine rearwards and forwards to increase access where needed.
This video has been so helpful for me in replacing my clutch. I followed it religiously (while referencing edredas + irina too) and it has made the job totally approachable. My son and I are on the final stages - tough job, but we'll be proud of our work once complete. Thank you Van!
You are the MAN! Thanks for making this video. This takes hours of work just to do the repair. But to do the quality video is probably just as much! I always look forward to your vids as a great teaching tool! Were you a teacher before this?
Thank you for putting the time in making this video. It visually shows what needs to be done where words fall short. Hey your car turned out beautiful I enjoy driving through tunnels too.
Thanks a bunch Van! Great suggestion on the transmission floor jack. That & the HF slide hammer is all I need tool wise. Getting access to the speed sensors seems like the hardest part but I’ll probably just pull the intake manifold to make life easier. Really appreciate your videos & matter of fact expertise!
I'm a big fan of your tutorials and general interest videos on the 944. Please keep up the good work and thank you so much for sharing your knowledge !
Thank you so much for wery wery detailed and informative video. With this I was able to do this. People like you make really youtube worth to use. Thank you!
This is a LOT of work, but if you know how, it’s not difficult, just time consuming. This video shows you how! My throwout bearing is making lots of noise when the pedal is depressed. Shame, as the clutch itself is only 30k old. They didn’t replace both I am guessing maybe. At least that’s what I think it is. This video is by far the best guide I’ve seen as to how to do this, so many thanks. Next year I might pluck up the confidence to have a go myself. Question is, can it be done without a two or four post lift, ie using tall axle stands ... I guess people have done it. Biggest challenge is getting the back high enough to get the transmission out!
Excellent, thank you! This job is in my future as I just bought my first 944 and the rear main seal is leaking. No better way to get acquainted with the 944 then a clutch job!
The OE rubber clutch in my 924S failed (while my uncle was driving it lol). I'm in the process of changing it out right now and this video is a huge help!
Thank you for this great info. I'm just starting a project that will use a 944 S2 engine mated to a modified Toyota FR-S transmission. This was really good foundational knowledge for me.
Oh man, I am SO thankful for all of your videos!! I just bought a 1986 951 and most of the major work has been done in the last couple of years (clutch, timing belt, balancer belts, turbo, suspension bushings...ect) but these videos really help see what I need to prepare for in the future. What are your thoughts on the Lindsey dual port adjustable waste gate setup? This car has one and I am not so sure I like. I finally managed to get it set at around 12 pounds of boost but it seems a bit flakey to me (read unstable) Any thoughts would be appreciated...Thanks!!
If memory serves, you need to use an aftermarket boost controller with the dual-port wastegate - not the factory cycling valve. So, if it seems flakey, I'd look at the boost controller first.
Hi Van Great video, enjoyed watching it (twice) as I'm changing the clutch on a '90 944S2 on Tuesday - fortunately I have a lift! FYI a 968 clutch change isn't the same as any 944 - it's a LOT easier - I did a clutch change on mine in 3 hours. Having the split bell housing means you don't need to remove the gearbox or TT, just undo the coupler and slide it off the clutch...
My '86 NA 944 clutch is beginning to slip, so the time may be coming for a new clutch. Unless you have an alternative? Great video, great explanation of processes. Thanks!
You might want to have the flywheel resurfaced when you do the clutch job - that way you can be assured the distance from the pressure plate surface to the flywheel surface is within spec.
Thanks, the most comprehensive clutch video I've seen. I have some vibration in my gear lever at certain RPM, is this clutch related? Also there seems to be a lot of transmission whine which doesn't sound right to me but from other posts on forums etc. is normal, can you give me any pointers? I have a 944 s2 1992. Thanks again.
Great Video! I have a question about the clutch fork installation. I am trying to get my clutch fork pin back in and the fork wont line up it seems that the fork as to move up toward the spline a little more and the fork wont move up to put the pin in. Do you have any ideas on what im doing wrong? I did a clutch on a 1983 944 about a year ago and had no problems but on the new car im having problems. Thank you
Hi Van-Great video-best one I've seen for clutch R&R. Thank you! I have an 87 944NA and need to do clutch myself due to $. I don't have a garage or lift-but have carport and good tools. I'm in southern CA so weather not an issue-but working under the car a pain! Will I be able to get the car up high enough to drop transmission and do all this on jackstands? I do my own wrenching but never have tackled a clutch. Thanks in advance!
UPDATE! So, I posted that the first time I did my clutch I had a hard pedal. My clutch had never been done mine is a 1983 edition. so 35 years old. original clutch. If you want to do this yourself get the clutch kit and take into consideration the guide tube. quick info bought the clutch kit for 533 from rockauto and the guide tube from pelican parts for 5$ plus shipping. it took about 5 hours with cinder blocks and 2 and a half with a lift. My Guide tube had the tube ripped off, the pilot bearing was completely destroyed and the clutch materials ribbits had ripped off from the side facing the flywheel. had to redo the clutch because we didn't double check the guide tube when me and my friend did the clutch the first time. It is not hard but I'd ask a friend to help you with the removal and installation of the transmission everything else other than moving a coolant hose should be easy to do solo. Thank you again Van Svenson for the help!
What a great video! to be done on my 951 next week. Any comments on where the second pilot bearing goes? Transmission side? any seal to be replaced on transmission while on the job?
A jajajaj awesome Sr Great work.... 1 question how to tell the difference between clutch noise and vibrations vs torque tube or bearings vibrations.. Thank you so much for this video.
If you're stationary, and you push the clutch in while the engine is running, the driveshaft will stop spinning in the torque tube. Do that to check if the sound goes away.
I think there's noise all over the motor train.... When I engage the clutch you can hear a washer like sound with coins and stuff inside.. Like something is losse inside... It looks like it is the clutch sounds to me... Thanks again
I'm doing this same job but I have a nightmare on my hands. Somehow, the torque tube clamping sleeve slid up the input shaft so that the frontal bolt is not visible or accessible. I know have to grind and chop the crap out of my bell housing to get at it. Why meeeeee????
Once the rear bolt is out, try using a prybar to shift the coupler forward or backward - it will move the drive shaft a little bit so the bolt head lines up with the hole. (And you can turn the engine over to rotate it.)
@@vsvenson Thanks for getting back to me. Unfortunately I think it's pretty seized onto the input shaft splines. I did try what you are saying but this thing won't budge.
Wow thank you for that video! All of them are so interesting and clear it made me try to do things I never thought I could never do on my Porsches. So doing the clutch on both my 86 NA and my 87 turbo should be very similar to this "s"?... Also I heard many decide to/must do some work on the torque tube while they are in there. Is it good advice? Thanks again!
The only difference with your '85 will be the extra flywheel sensor, and the only difference with the turbo are the wastegate, which attaches to the torque tube, which side the exhaust connects (to the down tube on the driver's side, and some heat shields around the starter. Once you have it all apart, you can spin your drive shaft and "feel" the condition of the torque tube bearings. If they're "dry" or "crunchy", it would be a good idea to rebuild the torque tube (It's not included my video, but I did that to my car while it was all apart).
Quick question, when the rubber begins to disintegrate, do you start finding pieces under the car? I thought I had a shift linkage problem, but i think its the clutch. I also hear a clinking sound if i drive the car.
ahh yes. This video is going in my favs. By the way, is there an S model that came with the 8 valve? My 86's Vin says it's an S but it has an 8 valve in it. Also it's an 86, I thought the S began production in 87
The confusion could be that 85.5 onwards with the oval dashboard is known as the series 2, but this is nothing to with whether it's an S or S2. 944S means it must have the 16V engine.
Great video as allways.. One question.. I have everithyn out to change the clutch.. And I want to change the oil pan gasket...and bearings.. Can I do it now or I have to put back the bellhousing and torque tube..? I'm putting 2.. 4x4,s..to support engine.. And do the oil pan gasket.. Thank you again.
If you support the engine well, so it doesn't swing around much when you loosen/tighten the connecting rod bolts, you should be fine. If you're changing seals on the front end, you need to take off the front crank bolt - which requires a flywheel lock, so you'll need to put the flywheel back on the crank.
@@vsvenson I just finish my clutch replace job.... Thanks God. Now a question for you again.. Sorry.. The reference sensor bracket... Should I install it in place or need to be removed. To get the bell housing bolt back on. Thank you again.
@@macannnas I bolt the bracket onto the block and put the sensors in BEFORE putting the bell housing on so I can properly gap the sensors from the flywheel. Then I leave the bracket on, but slide the sensors out, to install the bell housing. That way I know the sensors will be just right when I slide them back in.
Interested to hear your thoughts on using an engine support bar for when the torque tube is disconnected. I noticed you didn’t use one. Is there a situation where you would, or is it not needed. Thanks for all your videos!!
I've watched this video about 20 times while undertaking this project. Thanks! I'm nearly done with my clutch job but need to know if the cv joints are the same on both ends of the cv axle. I'm not sure which end originally went where, just where the different shims go.
The CV joints are the same - just the special washers under the bolts are different. The ones that hang over the edge of the CV joint are the outboard ones.
Any chance you can tell us how heavy a slide hammer you find is best (to get the clutch fork pivot rod out) and what kind of 'adapter' you used to attach it to the M8 bolt? Can I just get a body repair kit with a 5 lbs slide hammer and drill a hole in one of the hook attachments or is there a better method?
Mine might be a little larger than 5lb, but I think that size should work fine. I just took an M8 bolt and ground the head down so I could fit it inside the cap that threads onto the slide hammer. I think it was a CV joint bolt. :)
Great, thanks! What I ended up doing was using a socket (17mm 12-point) to surround the rod, stuck a bolt through the socket with secondary nut w/washer already on the bolt and tighten down the nut, to pull the bolt through with the rod. It worked very well, but took a bit longer that what the slide hammer would have.
Great video! I was wondering if you had an adaption to your slide hammer to get the fork out? I just got a slide hammer and it is 3/8 I believe so it's way to big to fit in the threads. Any ideas out what to do
It wasn't smooth, and there was a clunk, when you'd transition between off throttle and on throttle. There was also a driveline vibration because the disk was missing rubber chunks.
I cannot for the life of me get a torque wrench in to crank the belhousing bolts. How did you do it and get accurate torque? Or should I just use grunt force?
@@vsvenson Thanks for the reply! Also looking around it seems that most people use loctite for flywheel and plate bolts, I failed to do so. If I criss crossed the bolt pattern and have proper torque, do I have anything to worry about?
hey van, I have a question to ask you. I recently rebuilt my power steering pump. For some reason my power steering stopped working completely out of the blue and my pump started leaking. I rebuilt the pump and everything went back together nicely except that I accidentally took apart the back part of the pump and pulled the little black plug in the center that's held in by a metal plug. I think I may have reinstalled this incorrectly as now the pump isn't even cycling fluid through it. The power steering fluid reservoir is completely full and it didn't cycle any fluid to the rack and pinion. I can't find any videos or forum posts of what to do to reconstruct this rear piece... can you please help me?
I haven't taken the power steering pump apart... however, pumps like that usually have some sort of check-valve to regulate the pressure. My guess would be your check valve is open (maybe you didn't put a spring back?) so the fluid isn't being pressurized and forced out. Alternatively, there needs to be a tight tolerance between the gear teeth/lobes and the housing so the oil is "forced" out. Good luck!
Van Svenson thanks for the quick response. I feel like I did everything correctly except for that pin (looks like a banjo bolt and now that you mention it, seems to regulate the inward flow of fluid). I guess I'll have to take it apart again and try it again in a different configuration because there is no online help as to which orientation it's supposed to be in
In regards to the ring gear install, have you ever or do not recommend freezing the clutch and heating the ring gear to install it>? I have done this for years on American car fly wheels. If you freeze the flywheel (or clutch in this case) and heat the ring gear ( starter drive) to about 500 degrees for the most part they will just drop in place.
The ring gear isn't really very tight, because the bolt holes go through it to secure it in place. I don't think there would be any advantage to heating it and/or freezing the flywheel and would just take more time than a few taps with a hammer.
Van Svenson btw, thanks for showing how to get the shift knob off. Surprisingly I could not find any tutorials on it online. Mine was ruined and I will be replacing it with a momo carbon fiber shift knob and boot. Is the rubber square thing on the top of the shifter removable?
Hi Van, Could you please show how to adjust rear hatch receivers? I have new pins in the hatch, but the left gets stucked in the receiver. I gave it to the mechanic earlier, he stated that he fixed it but he didn't, how should I adjust it. The car is 944 Celebration Edition 1988.
First, make sure the receiver is lubricated well - I've seen them hang up and not release properly. Then, I remove the tail lights (six little 8mm hex nuts and 2 wire plugs - and, from inside the trunk, push the light outward with a set of adjustable pliers squeezing one of the studs and the mounting bracket). This gives me easy access to move the receivers around for lots of trial and error.
Thank you, I failed to fix this, but my mechanic tried second time and it works. He said that the first time he tried the car was on a jack so the rear hatch might changed it position when car was put on the ground.
Help! Just replaced clutch. Transmission engages gears when off. Clutch pedal gets rock hard and doesn't engage clutch. Grinds trying to enter gears. Please help my only car.
You've done something wrong - sounds like the throwout bearing isn't able to move (that's why the clutch pedal is rock hard). Might be the guide tube or maybe the throwout bearing fork isn't in the right place?
I'm going to replace the guide tube and double check all the components once the guide tube arrives. Thank you for your quick response and for making such a thorough video. came in very handy.
Is it a 951? With zzz codes? They were given world chassis codes and later given their export country vins when they got here. The rest of the digits should be the same.
Just got a 944:) The clutch is on the to do list. I was curious if there was any kind of engine work I should do to while I'm tearing everything apart.
Do a leakdown and compression test - if both are good, then just focus on fixing any oil leaks you might find (back of the cam tower, front crank seal, balance shaft seals, etc.) If you don't know when the timing belt was last changed, to that too. You can have an oil analysis done (I use Blackstone Labs) to determine the health of your bearings.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll give the compression and bleed down test a shot. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of oil analysis before. Thanks for the recommendation. Timing belt and water pump are getting done soon, and I don’t plan on driving the car until it’s mechanically ready to go. One other thing. There is a clicking noise coming from the cam tower. Could it be caused by one of the lifters being frozen? Or not having oil inside it? The car sat for 7 months that's what has me thinking the oil has drained out of the lifters. Thanks again!!!
When a car sits for a long time, oil can leak out of a lifter and it can take a while to "pump up" again. Let the car idle for 20 minutes and see if that fixes it. If you want to learn more about lifters, look here: ua-cam.com/video/ZCucAyf56Ik/v-deo.html :)
Clutch can also be changed easily by removing or just lifting the engine from the top. Unless there's some work to be done in the back of the car, i.e torsion bar work, late gas tank swap, etc. I don't see the point of all the extra work here
Personally I find undoing the CV joints, the shift linkage and the transmission mounts not too hard. Removing the engine from the top requires removing the wiring harness, coolant and plumbing, plus, at the least, you need to take the radiator fans and sometimes the radiator out. Although, people usually have favorite methods and tend to stick with them.
This job looks easy but is not !!! So please people stay away and don’t try it in house Is better pay a good professional mechanic shop they give you excellent warranty on parts and labor and you don’t have to cry Sorry but this is the true
Most excellent vid for an adolescent ha ha. I really want to make my own TT for a STi 6mt transaxle. I was laughing at the guys on one of the 944 forums. Why use a Subaru blah blah, not very strong etc etc. Well now, I didn't bother chiming in there. The Sub box has absolutely insane infinite aftermarket support. Unlimited gear ratios, good for 600hp stock and aftermarket gear kits for 1000 ft lbs and 1500 ft lbs. Not very strong I guess. Simple block off spline lock and cover plate for 2wd. Cable shifted and OEM limited slip diff. All kinds of aftermarket differentials from torsen to viscous clutch. Oh yeah, multiple suppliers of sequential kits for the housing, not cheap lol. Anyway, starting business for performance parts that should have been made 1000 years ago. I'm going to make a carbon tube with front ends for Porsche, gm, gm atlas 4.2 i6, and vw/audi i5. It will mount to a factory flex plate with a 10 spring alto torque damper from velvet drive marine. Its 8" diameter and the springs are changeable based on engine torque. In the back will be a split case that will clamp onto the torque tube and house dual 3" bearings and a spacer to couple onto the shaft. The spacer will be identical to the crankshaft and mount a flywheel and pressure plate. This will make clutch changes a breeze and the torque tube will only be removed to replace bearings. How it should have been from new with hydraulic throw out bearing.
You won't even have to pull the shafts to change the clutch. Just slide trans back far enough to clear the input shaft, 4" maximum and swap it out. No wiring, batteries, speed sensors. It will also make room for a couple honking huffers directly behind the motor. So guys can say yeah it's NA, wanna race? Lol
This clutch job is staring me in the face on my 1986 944NA. Your video gives me the confidence that I can do this job myself. This is easily the best video on this procedure on UA-cam. Thank you for your clear and concise breakdown of this difficult job. Much appreciated!
I've owned 4 944's. Did my first clutch job as an engineering student back in 1994.
Did my last one 2020, sponsored by Covid-19. Did a lot more than was necessary. Removed the majority of the running gear and refinished everything.
Now, all the items no one can see look great!😁
Literally the BEST video on UA-cam for 944!!
You have my respect...
This is the most detailed & informative instructional video that I have had the pleasure of watching in a long time! Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and post all of the finer details in completing such a job.
I tip my hat to you!
58:26 that smirk at the end lol. Awesome video! Absolutely excellent 944!
Watched your video again in preparation of motor and transaxle replacement. I watched the very end this time and enjoyed the tunnel drive part! Great videos BTW. Thank You!
Great video, Van. These videos are the ones that encourage me to work on my car, which I've been doing more and more. Occasionally, there's a small disaster that I have to take in to be cleaned up, but I learn every time, and the ensuing job always seems a little bit easier.
Thanks for keeping up the videos, Van.
Monte Olsen
Great videos Van, I particularly enjoy your tours underneath cars to show the technical aspects and the elements most people don't get to see
Great video, one of the best channels on 944's 👍
Great video. My one additional tip is that jacking up the front of the engine will greatly facilitate taking the bellhousing off (and re-installing it). Then lowering it to get better access to the speed sensors and other details on top of the bellhousing - so tilt the engine rearwards and forwards to increase access where needed.
This video has been so helpful for me in replacing my clutch. I followed it religiously (while referencing edredas + irina too) and it has made the job totally approachable. My son and I are on the final stages - tough job, but we'll be proud of our work once complete. Thank you Van!
You are the MAN! Thanks for making this video. This takes hours of work just to do the repair. But to do the quality video is probably just as much! I always look forward to your vids as a great teaching tool! Were you a teacher before this?
Porsche Club Chief Instructor for 10 years... but no "traditional" teaching on my resume. :)
One of the best videos i have seen. Thanks from the UK
BEST clutch video I've ever seen, well done good sir....
Thank you for putting the time in making this video. It visually shows what needs to be done where words fall short. Hey your car turned out beautiful I enjoy driving through tunnels too.
Literally went hunting for a 944 after this, its safe to say that now it's my turn to give it a shot!! Super excited!!
I hope you find a good one!
Thanks a bunch Van! Great suggestion on the transmission floor jack. That & the HF slide hammer is all I need tool wise. Getting access to the speed sensors seems like the hardest part but I’ll probably just pull the intake manifold to make life easier. Really appreciate your videos & matter of fact expertise!
Once again you make awesome how-to videos on the 944. Thank you so much
Much appreciated!Thank you for taking the time to teach us.944 is a great great machine.All best from Canada.
I'm a big fan of your tutorials and general interest videos on the 944. Please keep up the good work and thank you so much for sharing your knowledge !
Thank you so much for wery wery detailed and informative video. With this I was able to do this. People like you make really youtube worth to use.
Thank you!
My Friend you are the best . I don't need a clutch but you make me think replacing mine for no good reason would be fun...
This is a LOT of work, but if you know how, it’s not difficult, just time consuming. This video shows you how! My throwout bearing is making lots of noise when the pedal is depressed. Shame, as the clutch itself is only 30k old. They didn’t replace both I am guessing maybe. At least that’s what I think it is. This video is by far the best guide I’ve seen as to how to do this, so many thanks. Next year I might pluck up the confidence to have a go myself. Question is, can it be done without a two or four post lift, ie using tall axle stands ... I guess people have done it. Biggest challenge is getting the back high enough to get the transmission out!
Excellent, thank you! This job is in my future as I just bought my first 944 and the rear main seal is leaking. No better way to get acquainted with the 944 then a clutch job!
this video just made me buy a 944 thanks very useful
Thank you sir. This video is a gift to humanity.
Nice work! Changing a clutch on a 944 is not fun but if you can do it yourself... it means more money for beer and strippers. ;)
well did it on back jack stands took four hours oh yea am 62
Thanks for this video, helps so much. Working on my 944 clutch now
Great video Van, thank you. You'll know it's your time to go when you don't bother to rev the engine in tunnels any more :-)
The OE rubber clutch in my 924S failed (while my uncle was driving it lol). I'm in the process of changing it out right now and this video is a huge help!
Where’d you buy the clutch?
The last part is insanely wholesome
@ 58:00 Holy Moly! Gorgeous!!!
I recall doing this years ago, what a job!
Thank you for all your videos. It helps so much.
Great stuff! Thanks for posting this... gives me more confidence I can do the job.
This video has been a huge help! Thank you so much for producing it!!!
great comprehensive vid keep up the good work buddy nice resto
Best DIY vid
This is an awesome video. I think I'm ready to tackle mine now. Nice having that lift. Wish I was so lucky. Lol. Thank you!
What a great video! I wish I had a lift. I've done this job in my garage on my back. I have the same 86 NA
Thank you for this great info. I'm just starting a project that will use a 944 S2 engine mated to a modified Toyota FR-S transmission. This was really good foundational knowledge for me.
I'm really curious what project would use an S2 engine and an FRS trans! Good luck.
@@vsvenson I'm going to be grafting the two together and putting them in my 1962 Morgan +4. :)
awesome. I have been waiting for someone to do this. did mine 2 years ago. wish this was around then. PS you gonna do road Atlanta this year?
I'll be at Road Atlanta in February with AER. :)
I'll be at PCA club race March 28th. I'll try to come out for the AER race. looks like a better version of chump
thanks for this and all the great videos. super helpful
Oh man, I am SO thankful for all of your videos!! I just bought a 1986 951 and most of the major work has been done in the last couple of years (clutch, timing belt, balancer belts, turbo, suspension bushings...ect) but these videos really help see what I need to prepare for in the future. What are your thoughts on the Lindsey dual port adjustable waste gate setup? This car has one and I am not so sure I like. I finally managed to get it set at around 12 pounds of boost but it seems a bit flakey to me (read unstable) Any thoughts would be appreciated...Thanks!!
If memory serves, you need to use an aftermarket boost controller with the dual-port wastegate - not the factory cycling valve. So, if it seems flakey, I'd look at the boost controller first.
I will start there then, it just doesn't seem to stay at any one set point. It doesn't vary a lot but it's annoying.
What a great video!! Thank you for instruction and Knowledge!
I don't even have a 944 or ever had one. But still enjoyed the video.
Hi Van
Great video, enjoyed watching it (twice) as I'm changing the clutch on a '90 944S2 on Tuesday - fortunately I have a lift! FYI a 968 clutch change isn't the same as any 944 - it's a LOT easier - I did a clutch change on mine in 3 hours. Having the split bell housing means you don't need to remove the gearbox or TT, just undo the coupler and slide it off the clutch...
That's good to know!
Amazing job and great video. Very informative.
Great video. Thanks
Excellent video!
My '86 NA 944 clutch is beginning to slip, so the time may be coming for a new clutch. Unless you have an alternative? Great video, great explanation of processes. Thanks!
You might want to have the flywheel resurfaced when you do the clutch job - that way you can be assured the distance from the pressure plate surface to the flywheel surface is within spec.
Thanks, the most comprehensive clutch video I've seen. I have some vibration in my gear lever at certain RPM, is this clutch related? Also there seems to be a lot of transmission whine which doesn't sound right to me but from other posts on forums etc. is normal, can you give me any pointers? I have a 944 s2 1992. Thanks again.
Great Video! I have a question about the clutch fork installation. I am trying to get my clutch fork pin back in and the fork wont line up it seems that the fork as to move up toward the spline a little more and the fork wont move up to put the pin in. Do you have any ideas on what im doing wrong? I did a clutch on a 1983 944 about a year ago and had no problems but on the new car im having problems. Thank you
Sorry this is a late reply - did you get it figured out?
Great tutorial
Hi Van-Great video-best one I've seen for clutch R&R. Thank you! I have an 87 944NA and need to do clutch myself due to $. I don't have a garage or lift-but have carport and good tools. I'm in southern CA so weather not an issue-but working under the car a pain! Will I be able to get the car up high enough to drop transmission and do all this on jackstands? I do my own wrenching but never have tackled a clutch. Thanks in advance!
Sure - you can do this on jack stands. They make a floor jack-style transmission jack - that might be worth picking up.
UPDATE! So, I posted that the first time I did my clutch I had a hard pedal. My clutch had never been done mine is a 1983 edition. so 35 years old. original clutch. If you want to do this yourself get the clutch kit and take into consideration the guide tube. quick info bought the clutch kit for 533 from rockauto and the guide tube from pelican parts for 5$ plus shipping. it took about 5 hours with cinder blocks and 2 and a half with a lift. My Guide tube had the tube ripped off, the pilot bearing was completely destroyed and the clutch materials ribbits had ripped off from the side facing the flywheel. had to redo the clutch because we didn't double check the guide tube when me and my friend did the clutch the first time. It is not hard but I'd ask a friend to help you with the removal and installation of the transmission everything else other than moving a coolant hose should be easy to do solo. Thank you again Van Svenson for the help!
I'm glad you got it done! Congrats.
What a great video! to be done on my 951 next week. Any comments on where the second pilot bearing goes? Transmission side? any seal to be replaced on transmission while on the job?
A jajajaj awesome Sr
Great work....
1 question how to tell the difference between clutch noise and vibrations vs torque tube or bearings vibrations..
Thank you so much for this video.
If you're stationary, and you push the clutch in while the engine is running, the driveshaft will stop spinning in the torque tube. Do that to check if the sound goes away.
@@vsvenson thank you Sr. For getting back to me...
I think there's noise all over the motor train.... When I engage the clutch you can hear a washer like sound with coins and stuff inside.. Like something is losse inside...
It looks like it is the clutch sounds to me...
Thanks again
What clutch did you use
Sachs.
I'm doing this same job but I have a nightmare on my hands. Somehow, the torque tube clamping sleeve slid up the input shaft so that the frontal bolt is not visible or accessible. I know have to grind and chop the crap out of my bell housing to get at it. Why meeeeee????
Once the rear bolt is out, try using a prybar to shift the coupler forward or backward - it will move the drive shaft a little bit so the bolt head lines up with the hole. (And you can turn the engine over to rotate it.)
@@vsvenson Thanks for getting back to me. Unfortunately I think it's pretty seized onto the input shaft splines. I did try what you are saying but this thing won't budge.
You are the best. Thank you.
Wow thank you for that video! All of them are so interesting and clear it made me try to do things I never thought I could never do on my Porsches. So doing the clutch on both my 86 NA and my 87 turbo should be very similar to this "s"?... Also I heard many decide to/must do some work on the torque tube while they are in there. Is it good advice? Thanks again!
The only difference with your '85 will be the extra flywheel sensor, and the only difference with the turbo are the wastegate, which attaches to the torque tube, which side the exhaust connects (to the down tube on the driver's side, and some heat shields around the starter.
Once you have it all apart, you can spin your drive shaft and "feel" the condition of the torque tube bearings. If they're "dry" or "crunchy", it would be a good idea to rebuild the torque tube (It's not included my video, but I did that to my car while it was all apart).
That is it, I'll pay the garage to do it when it needs it!
Quick question, when the rubber begins to disintegrate, do you start finding pieces under the car? I thought I had a shift linkage problem, but i think its the clutch. I also hear a clinking sound if i drive the car.
The rubber bits stay pretty hidden in the bell housing. If you have a continuous clicking, that's likely a CV joint going bad.
ahh yes. This video is going in my favs. By the way, is there an S model that came with the 8 valve? My 86's Vin says it's an S but it has an 8 valve in it. Also it's an 86, I thought the S began production in 87
The confusion could be that 85.5 onwards with the oval dashboard is known as the series 2, but this is nothing to with whether it's an S or S2. 944S means it must have the 16V engine.
Great video as allways..
One question.. I have everithyn out to change the clutch.. And I want to change the oil pan gasket...and bearings.. Can I do it now or I have to put back the bellhousing and torque tube..?
I'm putting 2.. 4x4,s..to support engine.. And do the oil pan gasket..
Thank you again.
If you support the engine well, so it doesn't swing around much when you loosen/tighten the connecting rod bolts, you should be fine. If you're changing seals on the front end, you need to take off the front crank bolt - which requires a flywheel lock, so you'll need to put the flywheel back on the crank.
@@vsvenson thank you so Much for your help.
@@vsvenson
I just finish my clutch replace job.... Thanks God.
Now a question for you again.. Sorry.. The reference sensor bracket... Should I install it in place or need to be removed. To get the bell housing bolt back on.
Thank you again.
@@macannnas I bolt the bracket onto the block and put the sensors in BEFORE putting the bell housing on so I can properly gap the sensors from the flywheel. Then I leave the bracket on, but slide the sensors out, to install the bell housing. That way I know the sensors will be just right when I slide them back in.
Interested to hear your thoughts on using an engine support bar for when the torque tube is disconnected. I noticed you didn’t use one. Is there a situation where you would, or is it not needed. Thanks for all your videos!!
The torque tube is pretty close to its balance point, and the torsion bar carrier of the rear suspension is really beefy. So no support post needed.
I've watched this video about 20 times while undertaking this project. Thanks! I'm nearly done with my clutch job but need to know if the cv joints are the same on both ends of the cv axle. I'm not sure which end originally went where, just where the different shims go.
The CV joints are the same - just the special washers under the bolts are different. The ones that hang over the edge of the CV joint are the outboard ones.
Any chance you can tell us how heavy a slide hammer you find is best (to get the clutch fork pivot rod out) and what kind of 'adapter' you used to attach it to the M8 bolt? Can I just get a body repair kit with a 5 lbs slide hammer and drill a hole in one of the hook attachments or is there a better method?
Mine might be a little larger than 5lb, but I think that size should work fine. I just took an M8 bolt and ground the head down so I could fit it inside the cap that threads onto the slide hammer. I think it was a CV joint bolt. :)
Great, thanks! What I ended up doing was using a socket (17mm 12-point) to surround the rod, stuck a bolt through the socket with secondary nut w/washer already on the bolt and tighten down the nut, to pull the bolt through with the rod. It worked very well, but took a bit longer that what the slide hammer would have.
Great video! I was wondering if you had an adaption to your slide hammer to get the fork out? I just got a slide hammer and it is 3/8 I believe so it's way to big to fit in the threads. Any ideas out what to do
How about weld a 3/8" nut to the head of an M10 bolt to make an "adapter"?
With Mr Rodgers etiquette
Im convinced I could do it on my own, but id rather pay you to do it!
I'm glad you like the video. Unfortunately, I only work on my own cars.
Van, what symptoms was your car making that you determined it needed a new clutch replaced?
It wasn't smooth, and there was a clunk, when you'd transition between off throttle and on throttle. There was also a driveline vibration because the disk was missing rubber chunks.
Thanks
I cannot for the life of me get a torque wrench in to crank the belhousing bolts. How did you do it and get accurate torque? Or should I just use grunt force?
Do it by feel - it should not be as tight as a lugnut. If you're using a 3/8" ratchet that's 10-12" long, make it about "one grunt" tight. :)
@@vsvenson Thanks for the reply! Also looking around it seems that most people use loctite for flywheel and plate bolts, I failed to do so. If I criss crossed the bolt pattern and have proper torque, do I have anything to worry about?
I don't use loctite on those - I think you're good.
Awesome video
hey van, I have a question to ask you. I recently rebuilt my power steering pump. For some reason my power steering stopped working completely out of the blue and my pump started leaking. I rebuilt the pump and everything went back together nicely except that I accidentally took apart the back part of the pump and pulled the little black plug in the center that's held in by a metal plug. I think I may have reinstalled this incorrectly as now the pump isn't even cycling fluid through it. The power steering fluid reservoir is completely full and it didn't cycle any fluid to the rack and pinion. I can't find any videos or forum posts of what to do to reconstruct this rear piece... can you please help me?
I haven't taken the power steering pump apart... however, pumps like that usually have some sort of check-valve to regulate the pressure. My guess would be your check valve is open (maybe you didn't put a spring back?) so the fluid isn't being pressurized and forced out. Alternatively, there needs to be a tight tolerance between the gear teeth/lobes and the housing so the oil is "forced" out.
Good luck!
Van Svenson thanks for the quick response. I feel like I did everything correctly except for that pin (looks like a banjo bolt and now that you mention it, seems to regulate the inward flow of fluid). I guess I'll have to take it apart again and try it again in a different configuration because there is no online help as to which orientation it's supposed to be in
In regards to the ring gear install, have you ever or do not recommend freezing the clutch and heating the ring gear to install it>? I have done this for years on American car fly wheels. If you freeze the flywheel (or clutch in this case) and heat the ring gear ( starter drive) to about 500 degrees for the most part they will just drop in place.
The ring gear isn't really very tight, because the bolt holes go through it to secure it in place. I don't think there would be any advantage to heating it and/or freezing the flywheel and would just take more time than a few taps with a hammer.
Okay, that makes sense, thanks!
Will this apply to my 944 S2 89' ?
Yes!
Van Svenson btw, thanks for showing how to get the shift knob off. Surprisingly I could not find any tutorials on it online. Mine was ruined and I will be replacing it with a momo carbon fiber shift knob and boot.
Is the rubber square thing on the top of the shifter removable?
The 2 little rubber pieces will just slide off. You'll have to pull hard on the top one, but it won't tear.
awesome video man! didn't know this was such a hassle !
Hi Van,
Could you please show how to adjust rear hatch receivers? I have new pins in the hatch, but the left gets stucked in the receiver. I gave it to the mechanic earlier, he stated that he fixed it but he didn't, how should I adjust it. The car is 944 Celebration Edition 1988.
First, make sure the receiver is lubricated well - I've seen them hang up and not release properly. Then, I remove the tail lights (six little 8mm hex nuts and 2 wire plugs - and, from inside the trunk, push the light outward with a set of adjustable pliers squeezing one of the studs and the mounting bracket). This gives me easy access to move the receivers around for lots of trial and error.
Thank you, I failed to fix this, but my mechanic tried second time and it works. He said that the first time he tried the car was on a jack so the rear hatch might changed it position when car was put on the ground.
Where are u located? Want a job
had a bent fork 86 had to get inthere 2ws a couple months back
clutch fork bent? what could that be caused by?
Ingo blot i dont know and i hope it dosent hapen again i bought it with the clutch messed up but it was just the fork
Help! Just replaced clutch. Transmission engages gears when off. Clutch pedal gets rock hard and doesn't engage clutch. Grinds trying to enter gears. Please help my only car.
You've done something wrong - sounds like the throwout bearing isn't able to move (that's why the clutch pedal is rock hard). Might be the guide tube or maybe the throwout bearing fork isn't in the right place?
I'm going to replace the guide tube and double check all the components once the guide tube arrives. Thank you for your quick response and for making such a thorough video. came in very handy.
why does my car have what looks like a vin on the fire wall in front of batt but it's different then the one on my title and dash
Well... maybe once in its life it was totaled, and someone swapped the vin/title from another car onto it.
Is it a 951? With zzz codes? They were given world chassis codes and later given their export country vins when they got here. The rest of the digits should be the same.
Just got a 944:) The clutch is on the to do list. I was curious if there was any kind of engine work I should do to while I'm tearing everything apart.
Do a leakdown and compression test - if both are good, then just focus on fixing any oil leaks you might find (back of the cam tower, front crank seal, balance shaft seals, etc.) If you don't know when the timing belt was last changed, to that too. You can have an oil analysis done (I use Blackstone Labs) to determine the health of your bearings.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll give the compression and bleed down test a shot. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of oil analysis before. Thanks for the recommendation. Timing belt and water pump are getting done soon, and I don’t plan on driving the car until it’s mechanically ready to go. One other thing. There is a clicking noise coming from the cam tower. Could it be caused by one of the lifters being frozen? Or not having oil inside it? The car sat for 7 months that's what has me thinking the oil has drained out of the lifters.
Thanks again!!!
When a car sits for a long time, oil can leak out of a lifter and it can take a while to "pump up" again. Let the car idle for 20 minutes and see if that fixes it. If you want to learn more about lifters, look here: ua-cam.com/video/ZCucAyf56Ik/v-deo.html :)
Thanks for all the suggestions and insight. I should be able to keep myself busy for a while:)
Clutch can also be changed easily by removing or just lifting the engine from the top. Unless there's some work to be done in the back of the car, i.e torsion bar work, late gas tank swap, etc. I don't see the point of all the extra work here
Personally I find undoing the CV joints, the shift linkage and the transmission mounts not too hard. Removing the engine from the top requires removing the wiring harness, coolant and plumbing, plus, at the least, you need to take the radiator fans and sometimes the radiator out. Although, people usually have favorite methods and tend to stick with them.
omg nstgallk sinter kkiushn
This job looks easy but is not !!!
So please people stay away and don’t try it in house
Is better pay a good professional mechanic shop they give you excellent warranty on parts and labor and you don’t have to cry
Sorry but this is the true
Most excellent vid for an adolescent ha ha. I really want to make my own TT for a STi 6mt transaxle. I was laughing at the guys on one of the 944 forums. Why use a Subaru blah blah, not very strong etc etc. Well now, I didn't bother chiming in there. The Sub box has absolutely insane infinite aftermarket support. Unlimited gear ratios, good for 600hp stock and aftermarket gear kits for 1000 ft lbs and 1500 ft lbs. Not very strong I guess. Simple block off spline lock and cover plate for 2wd. Cable shifted and OEM limited slip diff. All kinds of aftermarket differentials from torsen to viscous clutch. Oh yeah, multiple suppliers of sequential kits for the housing, not cheap lol.
Anyway, starting business for performance parts that should have been made 1000 years ago. I'm going to make a carbon tube with front ends for Porsche, gm, gm atlas 4.2 i6, and vw/audi i5. It will mount to a factory flex plate with a 10 spring alto torque damper from velvet drive marine. Its 8" diameter and the springs are changeable based on engine torque. In the back will be a split case that will clamp onto the torque tube and house dual 3" bearings and a spacer to couple onto the shaft. The spacer will be identical to the crankshaft and mount a flywheel and pressure plate. This will make clutch changes a breeze and the torque tube will only be removed to replace bearings. How it should have been from new with hydraulic throw out bearing.
You won't even have to pull the shafts to change the clutch. Just slide trans back far enough to clear the input shaft, 4" maximum and swap it out. No wiring, batteries, speed sensors. It will also make room for a couple honking huffers directly behind the motor. So guys can say yeah it's NA, wanna race? Lol