Top 5 Training Habits of Pro Climbers!
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Ever wondered how Megos and Ondra train to get to the next level of performance? Tom Randall and Ollie Torr discuss the top 5 training habits of pro climbers.
Intro 0:00
Habit 1. CONSISTENCY IN TRAINING AND PERFORMANCE - 1:07
Habit 2. ACCESSING YOUR TOP 1% OF EFFORT/ INTENSITY - 4:20
Habit 3. DESIRE TO LEARN AND ADAPT - 7:20
Habit 4. COMMITMENT - 10:20
Habit 5. DEALING WITH SETBACKS - 14:47
Outro - 16:39
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1. Remain super consistent. Dedicate to training regimens and don’t get injured.
2. Be super intense. Try really really hard. Access that top 1% of your effort.
3. Have the desire to learn and adapt. You wanna be a better climber more than almost anything else.
4. Commit to this desire. Do what it takes.
5. Deal with your setbacks well. If your finger feels tweaky go do a huge core workout and rehab your finger. This is your chance to learn how to warm up your fingers better and focus on other aspects of climbing performance (your core, your diet, your sleep).
Brendan Evans #6- climb with people who are better then you are. This has helped me in skateboarding as well.
Thank you for doing this!!! Also 7:44 Ollie is crimping the armrest ;)
i wass gonna tag the same moment :) haha
Wonderful advice for both life and climbing. Always love how climbing can be applied to real life. Thanks guys!
Strong work, guys. I love the format. Keep it up!
Great general advices! Substitute title word "climbers" to any other profession or hobby, those advices still apply!
13:15 is probably the most valuable advice young athletes can pick up. It's very common to hear athletes talking about their goals straight away and sort of 'blow their load' before they even start training.
Great discussion guys.
Great video. It's good to hear these points again!
I really appreciate this video, because it not only provides clearly what the five points are but also proposes how to implement them. It’s always necessary to realize that everyone has setbacks, and the tips in this video help me feel better about my own progress. Keep on keeping on, this content is exactly what climbers are looking for.
We'll keep on doing it! The feedback has been great so far and we're always happy to educate if people find it useful :-)
Thank you so much for this great video! I really appreciate this format of highly concentrated educational material. I'd like to see a complete coaching session with you as a video if that's doable.
Ah that's a cool idea! We'll have a think about how we could do it and see what's feasible.
bang on! Everything here speaks true to my climbing experiences
Really appreciate this video! Thank you!
Great insight guys, thanks!
Excellent content. Thank you!
Excellent video for mastering any skill
The second tip is my personal number one, particularly in endurance training. I find there to be a huge difference between opening your fingers once my brain or my muscles decide to let go. The latter always comes later, so I constantly need to train my brain to ignore the feeling of exhaustion and make that one further move. Great vid!
Really nice with a lot of Meanings
Biggest thing I ever agreed on, will ride down my 5 things I wanne improve on as kind of a New Years resolution, but starting today :3
The last one really hits home! Dealing with injuries and setbacks is so tough. Thanks for the great video guys 🙏🙏
Keep that focus, think about what IS available to you still and you'll keep the fire burning :-)
@@LatticeTraining love it! There is always something else to work on! 👏🧗♂️💪
Very nice video!
I started climbing around 6 months ago and have been going 3 times a week minimum for around 3 hour sessions (mainly rock climbing). I recently managed to send 6C and am starting to link up 6C+ routes and just began working on a couple of 7A routes. My goal is to become much better and be able to climb 7C in another 6 months and so I am constantly looking at ways to improve strength, power and technique. Watching this video has given me a new motivation to keep going despite my last few sessions going terribly. I've written down these habits and plan on making them part of my routine for my foreseeable future in this sport. I wanna thank you guys for being so informative and logical in your videos, breaking down these concepts for us to apply clearly, and for being concise in doing so. Much love!
I wouldn’t think about the grades too much. Just work the overhang boulders, figure the problem out so you can try as hard as possible every time & eat/sleep optimally. Creatine helps
@@mero8351 I was taking creatine when I was bulking for the gym and right now I'm trying to lose weight so I don't think I need at the moment.
Your grade progression is going to slow down as your body needs to bulk up tendons for the higher grades, which takes much, much longer than growing muscles.and moving through the first few grades.
thats one of my big weaknesses - i really struggle to bring myself to try my absolute hardest. i call myself "bare minimum bartlett" a lot of the time because i just don't try that hard at anything. gotta figure out how to get past that!
When bouldering, sometimes after a few tries it happens to me that as soon as I touch the starting hold for the next try, I feel really weak. But this is the best moment for me to train the ability to give absolutely everything. I don't know if you boulder and if sometimes it happens to you that after a rest you think you're ready, then touch the starting holds but immediately let it go because you realise that your body is not ready. If it does happen, I would recommend you to immediately reach for the starting hold again and give it a go. Because in this moment only lifting your feet may already need you to give your absolute everything. Of course don't overdo it and especially towards the end of a session you should listen to your body. But fighting that mental game at least 2-3 times during a session is very helpful to me (and does also train a bit of endurance :) )!
Just keep going till you fall off, but don't see it as an option in your mind.
What I took away from this, is that maybe I try to hard to often. I'm completely destroyed after every session and I'm sore all the time.
Try making more noise when climbing. Effort noises make you stronger, it's actually a scientifically observed fact. It kinda gets you in the headspace of the push, especially if you shake out and grunt before getting on the wall, thumping the chest, etc, just doing stuff that makes you body feel like its ready to try, and after a while the mind will start to follow until it's synced
Grimace
I'd say start small, with a single exercise or climb rather than an entire session.
Sometimes it's also easier to climb hard during training, where you can measure yourself really precisely and work to improve on the same task week to week. Wanting the numbers to go up can be a big motivator to try really hard.
So basically I just need a consistent commitment to intensity and curiosity. This is quite an inspiring video. Time to go out there and get better!
very interesting, I have changed up my training all of the time, I figured it would make me better all around climber. Focusing the training for long term makes sense. I've never thought of it that way. I love studying trends of athletes, I have noticed that the athletes that aren't "born good" and have to work for it, do so much better. It seems the truly naturally gifted are just to good to train, hard work, that guys always wins.
Yup, it's interesting how this plays out many times.... we've seen exactly the same across the different sports.
Awesome training tips. Thanks guys!
diet tips?
What holds me back from trying at my hardest is oftentimes the thought of inguring myself (e.g. bad fall on the mats, rupturing a tendon when pulling really hard or ruining my finger joints when crimping) Do you guys have any advice for dealing with fear of injury?
If I feel sketch about pads my solution is usually to haul more out. As far as hurting my fingers goes I'm only really scared of monos and I just avoid em unless the aspect is slab
If you are not a pro, keep the fear and go slow.
Anyone else think Ollie sounds like Brian Cox!?
We'll let him know!
🤣
This sounds like the top 5 of training habits that are important for basically any sport. I am missing the part where you are specifically talking about the training habits for climbers.
Perhaps they _are_ all the same..? :) It's still a sport all the same
Boike the point we’re trying to get across is that culturally there’s too much belief in secret methods or that climbing does things differently! This is not the case. We’ve been involved with elite level gymnastics, athletics and martial arts over the years of experience of our coaches and we want people to know the rules apply across the board 😊. Hope you’re out there crushing!! 💪
Boike the point we’re trying to get across is that culturally there’s too much belief in secret methods or that climbing does things differently! This is not the case. We’ve been involved with elite level gymnastics, athletics and martial arts over the years of experience of our coaches and we want people to know the rules apply across the board 😊. Hope you’re out there crushing!! 💪
humm which one is it?
"they can access that top 1% of effort / intensity during draining"
vs (in another video)
"you should almost never train at 10/10 intensity or you risk getting injured exponentially more"
or do we just have to accept the top performers are necessarily the genetically gifted who can train consistently at 10/10 a lot of the time without (almost) ever getting injured?
donno if that is just me, but when i actually try hard im injured in less then a month. The only way to not injure myself, is not going all out and trying my absolute limit, but actually training smart.
In most cases it's all down to overload. We've come across a lot of people who think that intensity (trying hard) is bad for them, but really they're either not yet athletically conditioned to that particularly intensity or that they're failing to recover afterwards.... often both! Athletes love training... they HATE resting :-D
I would hate to be a professional anything, so it works out. It seems stressful to be well known (I'm somewhat popular at my gym, just for being there a lot and being friendly, and sometimes find it overwhelming to talk to so many people when I'm just there to climb) and like a ton of pressure to be expected to perform at a certain level, especially while being watched in a comp or something. Talk about sweaty hands. :P
💪💪💪💪
such is life ;)
I quite like set backs,as annoying as they are, I learn more from a set back than I do from training hard and reading up on things. 😊
P. S this was an awesome video
I have a technical (and probably difficult to answer) query.
Keeping in mind that being too muscular doesn't benefit climbing (in podcasts and on your website a BMI of 21 to 22 seems to be ideal). When it comes to specific and common exercises like weighted chin ups, what percentage of your body weight would you avoid going above in order to avoid gaining too much muscle while achieving high levels of strength?
And how about then for other common exercises, e.g. squats, benchpress etc.
My mind wants there to be an absolute answer to this question but my guess is that every person is different and every exercise will have a different ideal percentage.
Look into steve at climbstrong. He has recommendation numbers if lattice doesn't. P.s. do pull ups not chin ups
A somewhat general rule of thumb is that you're more likely to gain muscle mass from high volume as opposed to high weight, so doing low reps and high weight will help develop strength without putting on too much bulk. Also I think chin-ups are legit as well as pull-ups because chin-ups target external rotation a little more than pull-ups as well as bicep strength, so both exercises are nice 💪🏻
There are two ways to get stronger. You either gain more muscle so you have more fibres to contract, or you train your neurological system to be able to make your existing fibres contract harder. As Zach said high weight low reps is the most normal route to make this happen. With things like squats you can work up to a heavy single to stress the CNS and then do something like 3x3 pause squats with a lesser weight.
Concept is correct, but my suggestion for climbers would be to do either deadlifts (barbell or trap bar) or unilateral leg work for leg work instead of squats
Very interesting topic.
You guys need to produce more "shitty" but catchy content to get more subscribers. "How to progress 3 grades in 1 month" or collab with girl with biggest titties in th UK should work!
Your stuff is too good and professional ;)
3:30
In the days when no beginner had a coach it was a major "filter". Everyone was doing stupid stuff, some just learned their lesson without injuries. I was amazed to learn about the progress achieved by some of the most gifted athletes in very short time (D. Graham).
Personally I feel that it's totally fine not to gain more subscribers. Quality will attract its own crowd, and your "catchy" content will gather its own.
Lattice Training should be its own thing, its own special type imo :3
Fantastic content, but dudes please get a better camera ;-)
useless