Climbing Training At Home - What Is Best?
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- This is a huge topic and one that we'll be doing plenty more on going forward! Due to the current total (or partial) lockdown on many of our lives, we're all stuck in the same situation - how on earth to train at home if we don't have access to a climbing wall?!
In this video, we look at a number of questions posed by everyone on the FB community group and our social media pages. Essentially, this is an "Ask Lattice" but it's extra jammed packed with content and very directed to one particular subject matter: home training.
We wish you all the very best in adapting and coping with the current situation and rest assured the Lattice Team will be here cranking out as much supporting material as we can get done! If you need a "home only" training plan, just check out our website :-)
1:22 - Question 1: What do you need to be aware of when adapting normal climbing training to home training?
3:30 - Question 2: Are pinch/crimp blocks effective for training?
5:00 - Question 3: What do you think about active fingerboarding?
7:38 - Question 4: What is the best grip position to use?
10:05 - Question 5: What do you think of dumbbell forearm curls?
17:05 - Question 6: How should you use shoulder engagement exercises?
20:16 - Question 7: How do you transition from one fingerboard session a week to multiple sessions a week?
20:40 - Question 8: Are door frames suitable for deadhangs?
22:30 - Question 9: Which training board is best?
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Thanks for getting this out so quickly given the current gym closures worldwide.
No worries - we'll continue to try and support people as best as possible :-)
Thanks for not cutting out the dog part, that was brilliant ;)
This is amazing video, but I personally would rather not have dog in it.
vitarlaeda what kind of monster are you?
Yeah! These principles are so useful! It's kind of like we're in an 'off-season.' I've got way less equipment now, but way more time. I think the positive is that we can now work on weaknesses and supplementary work (like stretching) that we normally avoid :)
Thats a good way of looking at it. My new goal is to condition myself and focus on my nagging injuries so I'll be in even better shape once I get back to climbing.
Perfect timing! Thank you for the inspiration
Really helpful. Trying to sort out some home training and this is exactly the help we need. Thanks
Very good video, especially the emphasis on injury avoidance. As a 51 year old I appreciate that aspect above all others! I would suggest that if you are currently only doing one finger board session a week, that may be enough to maintain your level. Also if you are looking to increase the frequency of fingerboard workouts, take say 60% of your current session load, and do that on 2 separate days (say Monday and Friday for example). So if you currently do 10 “working” sets in your weekly session, do 2 sessions with 6 working sets in each, and see how you tolerate that for 2 or 3 weeks. Then progress from there by adding one or 2 sets to the weekly total. Just my 2c, I would be very interested to hear the opinion of the professional coaches on this one.
Thanks for the info! My favorite tool for training at home is the Entralpi force plate. It's pretty useful for training and measuring your finger strenght.
Great timing with this vid! Too bad I’m currently injured but once I get back this is def going into my regiment.
Just got my pinch block in the mail yesterday! So far I only have 5lbs dumb bells, but I’m sure that’s enough for now!
Had a Beastmaker 1000 delivered today!
Maybe a video on how to make a campus board or system board?
you are great ......nice lecture and very good advice ....clear and practical
Thanks a lot Lattice!
Now trying to get motivation for a hangboard session as the climbing trip planned in April will be postponded untill who knows when? Anyone else struggeling with motivation now?
Think about it this way:
Your stoke will be much higher once you get to go on that trip. And you still want to crush. so get those hours in. do that hangboarding protocol. Destroy yourself on core exercises and stretch the hell out of your anxious muscles and you'll CRUSH on your trip
Excellent video, thank you so muhc!
First like, then watch!
Thank's for all the work and content you put in, especially in this shitty confinement time. (US friends brace yourselves and start stacking training equipment ^^)
Love the training dogs :)
They seem to like our faces!! :-D
I find active fingerboarding the most efficient way to get rid of finger niggling injuries ( discomfort). On a block and at low intensity of course !
I simply cannot get enough of the sudden dog content
I'd be curious to know what you would recommend for training with a pulley injury (middle finger, right hand). I know the best thing is to lay off and not stress that finger, but I'm wondering if you think it is OK to still do pull-ups / bar work since it doesn't seem to stress that finger very much. I've also been trying to continue doing some hangboard training with my left hand on a small edge and my right hand on a jug or a bar. I've been taping my finger when I do any type of training that might stress it. What are your thoughts?
Yesterday I set up a fingerboard over my doorframe so the frame is safe. I did your power strength 7 on 3 off cascade set. You guys are making my quarantine time (Im still working) awesome. So very goood job guys. Be safe and see you soon in La Pedriza ;)
What about patones or el escorial?
@@bary6021 there are plenty of spaces. We need to be patient and learn from the situation. :)
20:30 first rule of increasing your training load is; first you have to increase number of your sessions, then quantity of each session and at the end - quality of session in terms of load. So I would say for a person who did only one session per week, first of all - you split your session on two and than your slowly augment quantity of each one until you reach your previous quantity in terms of reps, series, rest and so on. At this moment you do exactly the same session as before but twice a week instead of only once. And than you can try to increase intensity of one of your session by enhance the load (weights).
why am i watching and enjoying this even tho i don't climb? :D
Thank you for the great tips! I would like to see even more tips without any equipment, like my home has maybe weights but nothing heavier than a kilo really.. Or I have to start moving furniture
We have a cheeky piece coming out on training on a kitchen table :-D
First of all, thank you guys for all the awesome content you put up here on UA-cam! It helps a lot with structuring the training according to one's needs and to stay motivated.
Regarding question 4 (variety of grip positions), I am for now sticking to the training structure of Eric Hörst (ua-cam.com/video/Oc4E02AfQP8/v-deo.html) and as he describes at 4 minutes 10 seconds one should use the widest pinch possible. Given your experience and seeing results on different climbers, can you confirm that using the widest pinch possible is enough or would you still recommend using different widths on the pinch block?
Thanks alot. Training hard at Home hopefully will keep me sane during the next weeks. How would you do a 50% 7-3 repeaters workout on a single arm No Hang device Like in the Video? The easiest way is obviously to do each arm seperately but that Takes forever. If you Switch Arms you are basically doing 7 on and 8-9 Seconds off instead of 7 on and 3 Off. So whats the right Sets Reps time under tension etc?
Daniel Klicpera if doing quite submaximal finger strength exercises, then 7/3x6 repeaters with a 3min rest is desirable. Done one armed with the same timing, this means doing 7/3x6 left, rest 1min, 7/3x6 right, rest 1min, repeat for four sets each arm. Gives 2min of total cessation for each limb with 1min of work on the opposed limb each set. Comes out to be 2min longer than a standard two arm hang session would be but with near the same quality.
Doing 7/3+10 will rather ruin the purpose, and you would be better served doing
@@Cacovangor Thanks alot! Makes total sense
Thx
Newer climber here. Was climbing about 5x a week starting in Oct 2019. Gyms are closed and wondering if it would be safe at all to do any hangboard training since I haven’t been climbing for a full year. Would love thoughts.
Chavon Rosenthal yeah I feel It would defo be safe and a benafit. Dave Macleod just released a 30/40mins video on how to hang board for complete beginners. The video explains how it can be done safely from a very basic climber level.
Chavon Rosenthal ua-cam.com/video/Z5HZTN4MR-o/v-deo.html this is a link to the video
Where do you find those crimp blocks?
products.latticetraining.com/product/portable-pinch-crimp-block/
can you guys talk about how to train power with home setups?
Power pullups with weights if you have some! Ideally 2 rep max is a good one, or if you don't have weights do your pullups as explosively as possible!
Thanks for some good exercises! Trying to improve finger strength whilst managing injury risk. So looking for alternatives to hang boarding, basically. Is the finger/wrist curl routine a safe way to improve finger strength or will my tendon strength be lagging?
Yes and yes. Finger/wrist curls are safe and will improve strength. But we prefer isometrics for developing tendon strength. So a mix of these plus fingerboarding (or "no-hangs") is the way to go.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the great answer!
Do I effectively build tendon strength at low intensity hangs such as “no-hangs” and repeaters?
@@SigurdStette yes, both are good. We like things like density hangs, check out the Crimpd App. Don't forget tendon strength is build up while climbing also so go easy on the volume of training when adding anything new.
Could well be a silver lining to not being able to climb is putting time into working specific weaknesses eg. flexibility and come back stronger.
Ryan Morrison now that’s good thinking!!
Also, since most gym boulders should be pretty much frozen in time until the gyms reopen, you could possibly get a feel for the changes when they do reopen :)
What kind/brand of pinch block do you use?
We use our own Lattice Pinch and Crimp block. Here's a link so you can see .... products.latticetraining.com/product/portable-pinch-crimp-block/
@@LatticeTraining great thanks. It looks excellent
Hi guys, could you give some suggestions for endurance training at home? I guess most of people have fingerboard, set of dumbels, so maybe something like that?
Have a look on Crimpd App at first..... you should be looking at things like VERY low fingerboard stimulus at 30-40%..... more content coming on this as well!
@@LatticeTraining thanks guys, I will take a look asap. Please continue with amazing content. :)
Did i hear him mention a ratio on full crimp half crimp open hand crimp? Like 10 % full crimp, 30-40 % half crimp and 50 % open hand crimp? Trying to fin it again but cannot
50% half crimp 20% 3 finger drag 20% 4 finger drag and 10% full crimp
8:42
For question 5, can I save time using a bar-bell and doing both hands at the same time, or is there something that makes the one-hand dumbbell curls preferrable?
It's all about shoulder position for a lot of people and also the practicaities of the weights. A straight bar can be tough on the anterior rotation of the shoulder joint for some.
Do you guys intend to sale your pinch block?
I made my own one for about £4 and you can make it suited to yourself.. Climbing dad has a tutorial out there
If you're looking for one from us (although do also feel free to make your own!) we have a link here: products.latticetraining.com/product/portable-pinch-crimp-block/
more Pip content ploise
11:01 weight exercises
As i said - Hot Fingers - good for GOZO !!
See you after the Crisis !
gozo-climbingdotcom
when the brit calls the imperial system, american system
If not the door frame then what? I don’t have a hang board and can’t get one at the moment. I feel like if it’s the last resort it’s just what you have to use. This video is assuming we have a lot of equipment that many of us don’t or can’t acquire since so much is shut down. Even if I did have access to purchase these items, not all of us are getting paid and can spend money on these things. I appreciate the information but I’d love to see one geared toward people who don’t even have a hangboard, pinchblock, or weights.
He specifically mentioned that you don't need to buy a hang board, just make it yourself. There are a lot of tutorials on the internet.
Nume Prenume I do not have tools nor access to the equipment/supplies needed to make one.
Do not use the doorframe (casing) to hang from. Often these are attached with finishing nails and a seam of glue, and the casing itself is rather thin and outside of decorative hardwoods are not quality materials. What you see for the frame is not structural, and in addition are severe edges which are painted.
Cacovangor awesome. So what’s the alternative consider all ive said above.
PEACH if possible, find a solid piece of wood such as a 2x4, sand one edge well, and affix over the doorframe. On either side of a doorway should be two studs against each other, and make sure to attach into those (about an inch to either side). Then add weight and/or be loose with how much onto the board you are.
Also, work on base fitness as with a portable pullup bar or one at a park and the myriad of floor based core and antagonistic exercises. This is valuable if you cannot manufacture a hanging apparatus of any style, too.
Such convenient timing with this whole corona crisis going on and gyms being closed
That was the exact point of this video.
Haha "US Metrics" ... xD