@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another. It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
3:55 It's the rotator cuff which stabilize the shoulder, propably a good accesorry exercice for climbing as you use them to stay close to the wall in some position.
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm). Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength; Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator cheers
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout. For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously. It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries. I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine. Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with. OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing! Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
For me, the wrist roller was THE BEST training to fix wrist pain that I had during handstands etc. Everybody can make it themselves, you can saw off a broom handle or use a short piece of pipe and any old rope will hold with friction after 1-2 turns. You can hang a bag with books/water/rice/sand/stones instead of iron weights.
It’s so interesting to see training like this, for me I do bodybuilding training and the way it’s different is so cool. I’m also getting into climbing too so this is def a cool video to watch
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Okay I thought that was supposed to be a lateral raise... but I see now, it's a rear delt and mid-traps exercise. Which is being used over a rowing exercise because he already uses his lats plenty. ALSO because it's an external rotation exercise. Plenty of that I see. I'd also recommend face-pulls. Essentially the same. BUT, add that important external rotation. Just the set-up itself looked pretty close to a lateral raise. For other people who are curious: Lateral Raise - Lean forwards a bit to get the lateral deltoid facing directly upwards (don't achieve that through internal rotation of the shoulder). Use a light weight and go straight out sideways in line with the ground. To avoid potential tennis elbow (overloading the extensor tendons that keep your hand from flopping down), rotate the hands back a bit so as they're either on a diagonal angle relative to the ground, or in a vertical hammer-fist position, as this will instead recruit the radial deviators, which takes some or all of the load off of the extensor tendons. Can do done with straight or bent arms.
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury. One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
He's opening another gym it's kinda exciting even for me and I love in Scotland, yo Magnus if your business really expands well and u want another location try Aberdeen in Scotland there is only one gym there and it's really small
The underside is called the forearm flexors and the outside is the forearm extensors, fyi. Very important to train the extensors and also some sideways wrist motion to keep your wrists and elbows healthy. In Emil's video about slopers he mentions some wrist exercises that helped him stop getting injured all the time.
Also, the exercise at 4:00 is for the rotator cuff, the part of your shoulder that essentially lets you do external rotation - the movement that Magnus is showing - and it does feel really good because it tends to be under trained and that muscle group is super important for shoulder health and stabilization. Ideally, you should pick a lighter weight that allows you to get the full range of motion, bringing your forearm to an almost vertical position if you're lying on your side like Magnus is, but obviously if you're pretty tight you will be more "closed".
Whole range of external rotation exercises to do besides the lie down or prone dumbbell external rotation, and I find a cable to be more consistent for the full range of motion of each exercise, plus assist bands can work anywhere and are an effective warmup if getting directly to the project.
Good one Magnus! I know the training content doesn't get as many views, but it's really helpful to all climbers!
The last one is external shoulder rotation. It targets two of the rotator cuff muscles, the infraspinatus and teres minor.
I think if people don't have weights at home but for example an elastic band they can attach it to a door handle and easily do the same exercise :)
And please tale it real easy with the weights with this one. Talking like 1-2 kilos. Those muscles are tiny and very easy to injure.
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder.
After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
Lmao I use to use the same profile picture, now I just have it as my wallpaper. Beautiful dolomites
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
Subscapularis and teros major are internal rotators of the shoulder.
.. and external rotation is antagonistic to normal climbing pull motions.
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@@AngrySkipperGC Always open to learning.
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
That wipe at 5:57 is the best camera transition Magnus has done so far.
With all the crazy things you do, never getting hurt is DEFINITELY something to brag about! Can’t wait to see the next episodes!
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@@LunicussOfficial they are still the limiting factor and not the strength of the muscles as you falsely stated in your previous comment.
@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket!
Source: practicing doctor, UK
Magnus - amazing content as always
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength
Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast
This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate
Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
The production quality on this one is outstanding! Good job magnus!
The lighting, angles, and production on this video are sooo good, Great Work!
The camera angles and lighting in this video is looking absolutely amazing
I'M SO HYPED for the women's gymnastics video!
Really looking forward to the ice climbing video, and video with Pete!
Love this to keep injury free, this is what a lot of fitness tubers miss out on. Keep it up.
looking forward to those future idea's for content, also very excited to see Pete again. WIDE BOYZ
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another.
It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
Very excited for the ice climbing video! That sounds like it'll be awesome
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
can't wait for the videos with Pete again! you two bounce off each other really well.
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
Looking forward to the ice climbing video, that will be super cool!
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Yeah, I would love to see this
Yes pls
Yes
So excited to see videos with Pete again!
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
multi-cam is insane! Your prod has glow-up once again! Amazing
Looking forwards to the ice climbing video
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
3:55 It's the rotator cuff which stabilize the shoulder, propably a good accesorry exercice for climbing as you use them to stay close to the wall in some position.
external rotations and other shoulder work is gold!
Excellent video, I nerd out watching your editing and cinematography skills!
Thank you for the teasing for the videos to come! Looking forward to these ^^
I love educational videos like this ❤️
Keep'em coming.
Especially for beginners who have no idea what they're doing
Cant wait for the ice climbing video and gymnastics also sounds quite interesting
Thank you Magnus for making this video. Such an important topic for climbers to be aware of in their training!
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the
trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
^ I was just going to say something like but not as elegant
So would you rotate the weight on the way up?
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm).
Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
I always get really excited to go climbing, when I see your videos. Keep it up ! Great content
Finally, Magnus' secrets of getting not injured! Great!
Much appreciated. As a newbie that just got injured I don’t want to be off the wall for so long again!
Really appreciate all this amazing content you make for your fans! Always shocked me that you even edited the footage as well. Great video!
Looking forward to you being in Switzerland, we have awesome winter climbing areas as well if you wanna feel some rock ;)
Love the new feel of the content - it seems relaxed, relatable, and like you’re having fun!
I have been looking forward to a new video of yours man! This was fun!
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength;
Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge
and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator
cheers
Absolutely loved the way this was filmed mate
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
Magnus you’re looking extra jacked at that body weight. Absolute beast man.
Ice climbing sounds awesome and brutal. Excited to see those videos.
Upcoming content sounds great, look forward to the ice climbing!
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout.
For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
Thank you Magnus for always staying humble and sharing these content! And for keeping me motivated and excited always!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
More effective to do infrequently about once a week but at a reasonable intensity, otherwise there isn’t enough breakdown and repair stimulus.
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously.
It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries.
I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
I’m looking forward to the ice climbing video so much! It looks so cool!
That is the kind of video I am following your channel for! Love the second part 🤘🏻
Production quality improved. Awesome. Very helpful also. Thanks a lot Magnus
Thank you Magnus for the training tips.
Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
God that last exercise made me laugh so hard, like just full on Magnus thirst trap content hahaha. So amazing. Great video as always
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine.
Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with.
OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing!
Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
Plans sound good, so stoked for what's coming Magnus!! :)
Bring on more collabs with Pete! Your videos together are always great. Thanks for posting a little bit of training stuff as well :)
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
I'm psyched to see you ice climb!
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
The Wrist Roller exercise really induces the worst sore fore arms you can imagine :D especially if you have never done it before
Amazing videos as always and love the improved quality of camera, transitions, lighting etc.!!! Keep them coming
great idea to show this!
I’m from the future, great video Magnus 👍🏻
For me, the wrist roller was THE BEST training to fix wrist pain that I had during handstands etc.
Everybody can make it themselves, you can saw off a broom handle or use a short piece of pipe and any old rope will hold with friction after 1-2 turns. You can hang a bag with books/water/rice/sand/stones instead of iron weights.
Haircut is looking fresh magnus!! Great video as always!
It’s so interesting to see training like this, for me I do bodybuilding training and the way it’s different is so cool. I’m also getting into climbing too so this is def a cool video to watch
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Hyped for another training video!!! I'd pay to see a full powerlifting video!
Okay I thought that was supposed to be a lateral raise... but I see now, it's a rear delt and mid-traps exercise. Which is being used over a rowing exercise because he already uses his lats plenty.
ALSO because it's an external rotation exercise. Plenty of that I see. I'd also recommend face-pulls. Essentially the same. BUT, add that important external rotation.
Just the set-up itself looked pretty close to a lateral raise.
For other people who are curious:
Lateral Raise - Lean forwards a bit to get the lateral deltoid facing directly upwards (don't achieve that through internal rotation of the shoulder).
Use a light weight and go straight out sideways in line with the ground. To avoid potential tennis elbow (overloading the extensor tendons that keep your hand from flopping down), rotate the hands back a bit so as they're either on a diagonal angle relative to the ground, or in a vertical hammer-fist position, as this will instead recruit the radial deviators, which takes some or all of the load off of the extensor tendons.
Can do done with straight or bent arms.
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury.
One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
We'll be waiting for you Magnus! 🇨🇭🧀🍫🌄
Also love the juji plug!
Love these types of videos!
Great quality of the video 🤙🏼really enjoyed
Upcoming videos sound really top !!
He's opening another gym it's kinda exciting even for me and I love in Scotland, yo Magnus if your business really expands well and u want another location try Aberdeen in Scotland there is only one gym there and it's really small
Thats such an important video, thanks Magnus!
The underside is called the forearm flexors and the outside is the forearm extensors, fyi. Very important to train the extensors and also some sideways wrist motion to keep your wrists and elbows healthy. In Emil's video about slopers he mentions some wrist exercises that helped him stop getting injured all the time.
Also, the exercise at 4:00 is for the rotator cuff, the part of your shoulder that essentially lets you do external rotation - the movement that Magnus is showing - and it does feel really good because it tends to be under trained and that muscle group is super important for shoulder health and stabilization.
Ideally, you should pick a lighter weight that allows you to get the full range of motion, bringing your forearm to an almost vertical position if you're lying on your side like Magnus is, but obviously if you're pretty tight you will be more "closed".
Love the bouldering, but very excited to hear what you have coming up!
So psyched for the ice climbing videos!!
Man... I envy your travels and your climbing around the world... but I envy the fact that you never got injured even more! 😆
Great lighting in this video magnus!!
thank u so much, ive been looking for a video like this!
Thanks for sharing. This is super useful info for someone looking to safely get into climbing.
Definitely looking forward to seeing Pete again on your channel, Magnus =)
Whole range of external rotation exercises to do besides the lie down or prone dumbbell external rotation, and I find a cable to be more consistent for the full range of motion of each exercise, plus assist bands can work anywhere and are an effective warmup if getting directly to the project.
Nice video Magnus! Thankssss for all you did