@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another. It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm). Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout. For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously. It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries. I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
3:55 It's the rotator cuff which stabilize the shoulder, propably a good accesorry exercice for climbing as you use them to stay close to the wall in some position.
Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength; Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator cheers
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
He's opening another gym it's kinda exciting even for me and I love in Scotland, yo Magnus if your business really expands well and u want another location try Aberdeen in Scotland there is only one gym there and it's really small
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
Okay I thought that was supposed to be a lateral raise... but I see now, it's a rear delt and mid-traps exercise. Which is being used over a rowing exercise because he already uses his lats plenty. ALSO because it's an external rotation exercise. Plenty of that I see. I'd also recommend face-pulls. Essentially the same. BUT, add that important external rotation. Just the set-up itself looked pretty close to a lateral raise. For other people who are curious: Lateral Raise - Lean forwards a bit to get the lateral deltoid facing directly upwards (don't achieve that through internal rotation of the shoulder). Use a light weight and go straight out sideways in line with the ground. To avoid potential tennis elbow (overloading the extensor tendons that keep your hand from flopping down), rotate the hands back a bit so as they're either on a diagonal angle relative to the ground, or in a vertical hammer-fist position, as this will instead recruit the radial deviators, which takes some or all of the load off of the extensor tendons. Can do done with straight or bent arms.
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine. Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with. OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing! Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
For me, the wrist roller was THE BEST training to fix wrist pain that I had during handstands etc. Everybody can make it themselves, you can saw off a broom handle or use a short piece of pipe and any old rope will hold with friction after 1-2 turns. You can hang a bag with books/water/rice/sand/stones instead of iron weights.
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury. One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
Hey, Magnus, thank you for this video. Will incorporate these into my training. Just a small tweak to what you said regarding "building a lot of muscle, especially if you do a lot of reps": 3-5 @ heavy leads to strength, 6-10/12 @ medium leads to hypertrophy (muscular look), and 12+ @ medium/light leads to muscle endurance
You really engage the external rotator cuff nicely with that standing db exercise - which gives you the good posture. Very good exercises which, if you just look at the climbing motions, you really can't go wrong with. And for some side information: Rotator cuff muscles include the supraspinatus, infraspinatus, teres minor and subscapularis. Only the subscapularis internally rotates the shoulder. The other three all work together to move the shoulder from abduction (supra mostly) to external rotation (infra) and external rotation/extension (teres minor), so don't worry about exercises per muscle, because they aren't really seperate. (I have seen prepared, actual human shoulders at the academy)
I think it would be really awesome to watch you try to send a hard outdoor boulder. The video could be similar to the style of mellow channel videos. I know this would take some time to plan but it would be cool to see in the future "Magnus tries his hardest boulder ever!"
To anyone who wants to do the wrist roll exercise, I find that its more effective to use a barbell rather than the dowel and rope. With a barbell you can just keep going and going and going, you don't need to let go to unwind the weighted rope
The dowel and rope is a harder exercise because it's constantly trying to spin in your hands. If you go with heavy weight it's hard just to keep the rope from unraveling.
@@d.nilsson628 interesting point, I didn't consider that. So would it be best to hold at the top/end of a weighted rope for a few seconds before you let it unravel?
@@d.nilsson628 just added a top-level comment about this, as I didn't see your online reply. Just letting go and letting it unroll itself is skipping half of the exercise!
The last one is external shoulder rotation. It targets two of the rotator cuff muscles, the infraspinatus and teres minor.
I think if people don't have weights at home but for example an elastic band they can attach it to a door handle and easily do the same exercise :)
And please tale it real easy with the weights with this one. Talking like 1-2 kilos. Those muscles are tiny and very easy to injure.
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder.
After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
Lmao I use to use the same profile picture, now I just have it as my wallpaper. Beautiful dolomites
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
Subscapularis and teros major are internal rotators of the shoulder.
.. and external rotation is antagonistic to normal climbing pull motions.
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@@AngrySkipperGC Always open to learning.
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
Good one Magnus! I know the training content doesn't get as many views, but it's really helpful to all climbers!
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket!
Source: practicing doctor, UK
Magnus - amazing content as always
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
Yeah, I would love to see this
Yes pls
Yes
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
I'M SO HYPED for the women's gymnastics video!
With all the crazy things you do, never getting hurt is DEFINITELY something to brag about! Can’t wait to see the next episodes!
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@@LunicussOfficial they are still the limiting factor and not the strength of the muscles as you falsely stated in your previous comment.
@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength
Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast
This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate
Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
Looking forwards to the ice climbing video
Really looking forward to the ice climbing video, and video with Pete!
The production quality on this one is outstanding! Good job magnus!
That wipe at 5:57 is the best camera transition Magnus has done so far.
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another.
It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
The lighting, angles, and production on this video are sooo good, Great Work!
looking forward to those future idea's for content, also very excited to see Pete again. WIDE BOYZ
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
external rotations and other shoulder work is gold!
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the
trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
^ I was just going to say something like but not as elegant
So would you rotate the weight on the way up?
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm).
Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
Very excited for the ice climbing video! That sounds like it'll be awesome
Love this to keep injury free, this is what a lot of fitness tubers miss out on. Keep it up.
Cant wait for the ice climbing video and gymnastics also sounds quite interesting
Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!
Looking forward to the ice climbing video, that will be super cool!
The camera angles and lighting in this video is looking absolutely amazing
I’m from the future, great video Magnus 👍🏻
Much appreciated. As a newbie that just got injured I don’t want to be off the wall for so long again!
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate
Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout.
For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
can't wait for the videos with Pete again! you two bounce off each other really well.
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
So excited to see videos with Pete again!
a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)
More effective to do infrequently about once a week but at a reasonable intensity, otherwise there isn’t enough breakdown and repair stimulus.
@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously.
It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.
I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).
@@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries.
I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..
@@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).
Thank you for the teasing for the videos to come! Looking forward to these ^^
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
Looking forward to you being in Switzerland, we have awesome winter climbing areas as well if you wanna feel some rock ;)
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
Magnus you’re looking extra jacked at that body weight. Absolute beast man.
I love educational videos like this ❤️
Keep'em coming.
Especially for beginners who have no idea what they're doing
Upcoming content sounds great, look forward to the ice climbing!
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
3:55 It's the rotator cuff which stabilize the shoulder, propably a good accesorry exercice for climbing as you use them to stay close to the wall in some position.
We'll be waiting for you Magnus! 🇨🇭🧀🍫🌄
I always get really excited to go climbing, when I see your videos. Keep it up ! Great content
Thank you Magnus for the training tips.
Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
Finally, Magnus' secrets of getting not injured! Great!
great idea to show this!
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength;
Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge
and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator
cheers
Love the new feel of the content - it seems relaxed, relatable, and like you’re having fun!
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
That last excersize is for your rotator cuff, besides doing them horizontally you can also do them vertically (as in up and down rather than across) it's another way to work then slightly differently.
Ice climbing sounds awesome and brutal. Excited to see those videos.
I’m looking forward to the ice climbing video so much! It looks so cool!
Thank you Magnus for making this video. Such an important topic for climbers to be aware of in their training!
multi-cam is insane! Your prod has glow-up once again! Amazing
He's opening another gym it's kinda exciting even for me and I love in Scotland, yo Magnus if your business really expands well and u want another location try Aberdeen in Scotland there is only one gym there and it's really small
Plans sound good, so stoked for what's coming Magnus!! :)
Absolutely loved the way this was filmed mate
Really appreciate all this amazing content you make for your fans! Always shocked me that you even edited the footage as well. Great video!
That is the kind of video I am following your channel for! Love the second part 🤘🏻
Thank you Magnus for always staying humble and sharing these content! And for keeping me motivated and excited always!
Also love the juji plug!
Bring on more collabs with Pete! Your videos together are always great. Thanks for posting a little bit of training stuff as well :)
I have been looking forward to a new video of yours man! This was fun!
Excellent video, I nerd out watching your editing and cinematography skills!
Production quality improved. Awesome. Very helpful also. Thanks a lot Magnus
Hyped for another training video!!! I'd pay to see a full powerlifting video!
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
Upcoming videos sound really top !!
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
I'm psyched to see you ice climb!
Man... I envy your travels and your climbing around the world... but I envy the fact that you never got injured even more! 😆
Okay I thought that was supposed to be a lateral raise... but I see now, it's a rear delt and mid-traps exercise. Which is being used over a rowing exercise because he already uses his lats plenty.
ALSO because it's an external rotation exercise. Plenty of that I see. I'd also recommend face-pulls. Essentially the same. BUT, add that important external rotation.
Just the set-up itself looked pretty close to a lateral raise.
For other people who are curious:
Lateral Raise - Lean forwards a bit to get the lateral deltoid facing directly upwards (don't achieve that through internal rotation of the shoulder).
Use a light weight and go straight out sideways in line with the ground. To avoid potential tennis elbow (overloading the extensor tendons that keep your hand from flopping down), rotate the hands back a bit so as they're either on a diagonal angle relative to the ground, or in a vertical hammer-fist position, as this will instead recruit the radial deviators, which takes some or all of the load off of the extensor tendons.
Can do done with straight or bent arms.
The last excercise where you lie on your side with your bottom arm in front of your waist is called "dumbell external Rotation". It is a great excercise if you have weak external rotators.
So psyched for the ice climbing videos!!
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine.
Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with.
OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing!
Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
For me, the wrist roller was THE BEST training to fix wrist pain that I had during handstands etc.
Everybody can make it themselves, you can saw off a broom handle or use a short piece of pipe and any old rope will hold with friction after 1-2 turns. You can hang a bag with books/water/rice/sand/stones instead of iron weights.
Love the bouldering, but very excited to hear what you have coming up!
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
Definitely looking forward to seeing Pete again on your channel, Magnus =)
you look really healthy at this weight!
Thats such an important video, thanks Magnus!
Thanks for sharing. This is super useful info for someone looking to safely get into climbing.
The Wrist Roller exercise really induces the worst sore fore arms you can imagine :D especially if you have never done it before
Nice video Magnus! Thankssss for all you did
Amazing videos as always and love the improved quality of camera, transitions, lighting etc.!!! Keep them coming
Iove watching videos aboit antagonistic workouts! Starting to get older so I've become super aware that I am prone to injury.
One note - watching the Geek Climber/Hooper's Beta collab about the wrist roller. They were saying that unrolling the rope down is actually more important for the outside forearms and that you shouldn't just let it unwind. Just food for thought
the weird shoulder rotation trains your rotator cuff, it is also very good to do it with rubber bands, standing or laying down,
Love the video. Some good exercises I’ll try. Sounds like the ice climbing video will be awesome!
Hey, Magnus, thank you for this video. Will incorporate these into my training. Just a small tweak to what you said regarding "building a lot of muscle, especially if you do a lot of reps": 3-5 @ heavy leads to strength, 6-10/12 @ medium leads to hypertrophy (muscular look), and 12+ @ medium/light leads to muscle endurance
You really engage the external rotator cuff nicely with that standing db exercise - which gives you the good posture. Very good exercises which, if you just look at the climbing motions, you really can't go wrong with.
And for some side information: Rotator cuff muscles include the supraspinatus, infraspinatus, teres minor and subscapularis. Only the subscapularis internally rotates the shoulder. The other three all work together to move the shoulder from abduction (supra mostly) to external rotation (infra) and external rotation/extension (teres minor), so don't worry about exercises per muscle, because they aren't really seperate. (I have seen prepared, actual human shoulders at the academy)
I think it would be really awesome to watch you try to send a hard outdoor boulder. The video could be similar to the style of mellow channel videos. I know this would take some time to plan but it would be cool to see in the future "Magnus tries his hardest boulder ever!"
To anyone who wants to do the wrist roll exercise, I find that its more effective to use a barbell rather than the dowel and rope. With a barbell you can just keep going and going and going, you don't need to let go to unwind the weighted rope
The dowel and rope is a harder exercise because it's constantly trying to spin in your hands. If you go with heavy weight it's hard just to keep the rope from unraveling.
@@d.nilsson628 interesting point, I didn't consider that. So would it be best to hold at the top/end of a weighted rope for a few seconds before you let it unravel?
@@petermozuraitis5219 I guess you could. You should also not just let go when you reach the top, lower it again slowly.
@@d.nilsson628 just added a top-level comment about this, as I didn't see your online reply. Just letting go and letting it unroll itself is skipping half of the exercise!
If you have a bar and no bench, you can also do a pullover press - which is very good for the shoulders and biceps
Awesome video, this is super beneficial content! Thank you for making this.