Hello Chris. I was looking for the Staburag spline grease. There are a couple different ones. Just curious which one you use. Also, is it applicable to 2007 R1200GS and 2003 R1150RT Drive splines?
The driveshaft might rotate a bit before the bolt will break free. Feel free to whack the wrench with a heavy rubber mallet. The quick shock of the mallet strike will usually loosen the bolt. These are not left-hand thread.
As stated in the video, I am using the pry-bar to prevent the engine from turning over for those who do not have the flywheel locking tool. You will need to lock the flywheel in order to torque your clutch bolts. Thanks and good luck, Chris
hope all is well in your new place. hope youll see this. quick question. if i believe my r100gs clutch pack (disc, pressure plate, flywheel) was reassembled wrong before i owned it how would i tell? anyway to reassemble it correctly? i only ask because my bike does have some vibration. usually around 3500-4000. gets smoother as the revs go up. doesnt shake but since ill be doing the splines why not inspect everything else ( i was told trans and final drive was rebuilt previously, at 75k the driveline is not notchy at all)
Could you expain the need of the prybar while loosening the clutch bolts? While I dont plan on taking my clutch pack out, Ive been advised to loosen my clutch bolts to correct my clutch alignment (which is preventing me from installing the trans squarely to the engine). Will I also need to use a tool to keep the flywheel from moving? Thanks again.
Great vids & info, I've been browsing your channel most of the morning here. I'm in the process of getting my '81 R80G/S back on the road & this vid has been the first one to show the correct orientation of the clutch actuation rod bearing in its cage, the one with the lip/rounded side. Just like in your video, when I pulled this part out, the bearing went flying on to the floor & I had no idea of the correct way to reassemble. To confirm though, you say the lip goes in & the rounded side out to help retain oil, yet in the video it appears you toss the bearing into the cage with the lip (open end) facing out? Some clarification or confirmation would be great between what you're saying & the actual way you put the bearing in. Thanks again for taking the time to post all the good info.
Hi Mike, So you're going to make me watch my own video, huh?! ;) I'm kidding. My apology for any confusion. The orientation mentioned and pictured is correct. The open side of the bearing faces the transmission, away from the puck. Good luck with the restoration of your R80GS. Those were sweet. I hope you are going to post videos. Let me know and I'll subscribe if you'd like. Keep me posted either way. Happy New Year, Chris
Chris Harris Thanks for that, super quick reply & clarification. Happy New Year to you as well. I've posted a few photos of the work in progress on google+. Project is stalled at the moment due to cold weather. I work on the bikes in unheated carport. I'm the original owner of the R80, purchased in Germany while I was there with the Canadian Forces. Also have a 2000 R1200C which is now scaring the crap out of me based on some of the work you've posted on them.
I appreciate what you do Chris. These boxers baffle the harley derperson crowd and its nice to find good service videos by a professional.
Hi Simon, Thank you. I'm sure you will be able to get through it easily. If not just ask for help, Chris
Hello Chris. I was looking for the Staburag spline grease. There are a couple different ones. Just curious which one you use. Also, is it applicable to 2007 R1200GS and 2003 R1150RT Drive splines?
The driveshaft might rotate a bit before the bolt will break free. Feel free to whack the wrench with a heavy rubber mallet. The quick shock of the mallet strike will usually loosen the bolt. These are not left-hand thread.
As stated in the video, I am using the pry-bar to prevent the engine from turning over for those who do not have the flywheel locking tool. You will need to lock the flywheel in order to torque your clutch bolts. Thanks and good luck, Chris
hope all is well in your new place. hope youll see this. quick question. if i believe my r100gs clutch pack (disc, pressure plate, flywheel) was reassembled wrong before i owned it how would i tell? anyway to reassemble it correctly? i only ask because my bike does have some vibration. usually around 3500-4000. gets smoother as the revs go up. doesnt shake but since ill be doing the splines why not inspect everything else ( i was told trans and final drive was rebuilt previously, at 75k the driveline is not notchy at all)
Hey Chris great videos,very practical and easy instructions.
Question.......where do you buy Staburags lub? It looks like a great product.
Could you expain the need of the prybar while loosening the clutch bolts? While I dont plan on taking my clutch pack out, Ive been advised to loosen my clutch bolts to correct my clutch alignment (which is preventing me from installing the trans squarely to the engine). Will I also need to use a tool to keep the flywheel from moving? Thanks again.
Great vids & info, I've been browsing your channel most of the morning here. I'm in the process of getting my '81 R80G/S back on the road & this vid has been the first one to show the correct orientation of the clutch actuation rod bearing in its cage, the one with the lip/rounded side. Just like in your video, when I pulled this part out, the bearing went flying on to the floor & I had no idea of the correct way to reassemble. To confirm though, you say the lip goes in & the rounded side out to help retain oil, yet in the video it appears you toss the bearing into the cage with the lip (open end) facing out? Some clarification or confirmation would be great between what you're saying & the actual way you put the bearing in. Thanks again for taking the time to post all the good info.
Hi Mike, So you're going to make me watch my own video, huh?! ;) I'm kidding. My apology for any confusion. The orientation mentioned and pictured is correct. The open side of the bearing faces the transmission, away from the puck. Good luck with the restoration of your R80GS. Those were sweet. I hope you are going to post videos. Let me know and I'll subscribe if you'd like. Keep me posted either way. Happy New Year, Chris
Chris Harris Thanks for that, super quick reply & clarification. Happy New Year to you as well. I've posted a few photos of the work in progress on google+. Project is stalled at the moment due to cold weather. I work on the bikes in unheated carport. I'm the original owner of the R80, purchased in Germany while I was there with the Canadian Forces. Also have a 2000 R1200C which is now scaring the crap out of me based on some of the work you've posted on them.
I have not used it. Be very, very careful with moly application to the clutch splines as it is usually a much thinner paste than Staburags is.
It is manufactured by Kluber Lubricants.