Just bought a 1984 R100 RT and as I'm a machinist and auto mechanic (journeyman both trades) I'll be doing all my own work. Moving to a small town and there will be no motorcycle service there. Your videos are excellent - very complete with good visuals and much appreciated by this old boy...won't have to "follow my nose" now. Thanks Chris.!
I love these videos. They are worth hundreds of hours reading ADVrider forums and trying to sort the wheat from the chaff, or trying to determine whether the Clymer manual is totally bogus in its recommended procedure. You are funny as hell also. Thanks so much.
Chris, just a excellent video! I need to get this job done on my R65, the previous owners have neglected the maintenance. I watched it yesterday but now I took a serious dinner in front of me and I will start all over. Lot of fellow airhead owners are praising your videos! Many thanks.
Just wanted to drop you a line and thank you for these videos. They save me a lot of trouble and make me more confident in what I am doing. Greetings from Bavaria
Chris--the secondary air system puts COLD air into the exhaust ports. That burns off unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipes. That also makes the pipes run hot, and also makes the "popcorn" sound. It's easy to block it off at the exhaust ports.
I should have clarified why I left the tank on. Some of these old BMW's have a plastic tube protruding from the fuel petcocks. If you set the fuel tank down on a flat surface (table, ground, etc.) they will snap off. Removing the tank also increases the risk of damage during the spline lube. So I usually leave the tank on even though I have a special fuel tank holder. The fuel tank really doesn't interfere with the removal of the air box so it can stay on with this model. Thanks, Chris
Thank you. A rubber grommet to block each of the two holes in the airbox (or use JB Weld, etc.) and cut the tubibg, remove the two cap nuts, insert a washer into the cap nut and MiG weld the washer onto the cap nut welding the washers hole closed at the same time. Then pack with copper anti-seize and thread the nut back onto the head and the ports are now blocked and the goofy useless secondary air system can be tossed into the trash.
Chris, I join the long list of airheads sending my thanks for your video and commentary. I'm attempting my first spline lube on my '81 RT. Everything has gone very well thanks to your help. However I'm stuck on a reassembly issue. My clutch rod is not going all the way into the clutch. The collar at the rear of the clutch arm sticks our of the transmission 1/2" prohibiting the installation of the puck, etc. I've pulled it apart again to see if I misaligned something but ??????- same problem. Any thoughts? Appreciate your help.
Wow I wish you had these up last summer when I was working on my 77 R100. I am glad to see that I did it right with just the Clymer manual. BTW, what kind of gloves do you guys use? Are they latex?
Hi Chris, thanks firstly for all your time and effort producing these videos,very informative and old school approach! My question is how to remove a stripped filler plug on an R60/6 drive shaft??? Any help much appreciated,thanks,Marko
Get under it with a flat-blade driver or such to add upwards tension as you unscrew it. Short of that chop the head off and unscrew the treads from the swingarm. Good luck, Mark.
Hi Mr Chris, Im having a year 2013 Gs1200adv and I've done 40,000km on it. Do I need to do the spline lube on this newer model GS at this milage? Thanks.
Re: the drilled negative terminal bolt. Better way to vent would be to drill the bolt between the air box and the transmission. Vents filtered air and is out of the weather
Hey man Nice videos! I have one question. I have a 1983 R100RT and i installed 120/90/18 Tire on the back wheel can you please tell me what is a normal gap on the brake side of the bike between rear swing arm and a tire because it looks way too close or maybe it's suppose to be distance i have looks like 1mm to 2.5mm
Timmy, In the rear wheel parts fiche see item #5 - right side wheel spacer (BMW calls it a 'sleeve'). Remove and measure it. If it is 9.2 mm it is for the OEM 4.00-18 tire. You need the 10.7 mm spacer to run a 120/80-18 tire. Good luck, Chris
Correct, thanks. But is doesn't matter. It is a useless, ridiculous answer to a question that no one ever asked. It shouldn't have been there in the first place and it makes airbox removal much more time consuming. Thanks again, Chris
BMW had that shit on US models (1976?) before CA mandated it (for motorcycles). That's BMW's idea of 'innovative' and cutting edge! Just like the goofy catalytic converter that doesn't do shit and that no one asked for (1990-1997 K bikes for instance).
Just bought a 1984 R100 RT and as I'm a machinist and auto mechanic (journeyman both trades) I'll be doing all my own work.
Moving to a small town and there will be no motorcycle service there.
Your videos are excellent - very complete with good visuals and much appreciated by this old boy...won't have to "follow my nose" now.
Thanks Chris.!
Hello, J.H., good luck with your move.
I love these videos. They are worth hundreds of hours reading ADVrider forums and trying to sort the wheat from the chaff, or trying to determine whether the Clymer manual is totally bogus in its recommended procedure. You are funny as hell also. Thanks so much.
Chris, just a excellent video! I need to get this job done on my R65, the previous owners have neglected the maintenance. I watched it yesterday but now I took a serious dinner in front of me and I will start all over. Lot of fellow airhead owners are praising your videos! Many thanks.
Just wanted to drop you a line and thank you for these videos.
They save me a lot of trouble and make me more confident in what I am doing.
Greetings from Bavaria
Thank you for your note!
Thanks for taking the time to do the vids, my '82 r100rt benefit!
Great, thanks for writing!
Thank you for your comments :)
Chris--the secondary air system puts COLD air into the exhaust ports. That burns off unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipes. That also makes the pipes run hot, and also makes the "popcorn" sound.
It's easy to block it off at the exhaust ports.
AWESOME Thanks for doing this video.
Hope you're having a good weekend. Thanks again for the videos. R100gs
Thanks, dsruddell.
I should have clarified why I left the tank on. Some of these old BMW's have a plastic tube protruding from the fuel petcocks. If you set the fuel tank down on a flat surface (table, ground, etc.) they will snap off. Removing the tank also increases the risk of damage during the spline lube. So I usually leave the tank on even though I have a special fuel tank holder. The fuel tank really doesn't interfere with the removal of the air box so it can stay on with this model. Thanks, Chris
Thank you. A rubber grommet to block each of the two holes in the airbox (or use JB Weld, etc.) and cut the tubibg, remove the two cap nuts, insert a washer into the cap nut and MiG weld the washer onto the cap nut welding the washers hole closed at the same time. Then pack with copper anti-seize and thread the nut back onto the head and the ports are now blocked and the goofy useless secondary air system can be tossed into the trash.
Chris, I join the long list of airheads sending my thanks for your video and commentary. I'm attempting my first spline lube on my '81 RT. Everything has gone very well thanks to your help. However I'm stuck on a reassembly issue. My clutch rod is not going all the way into the clutch. The collar at the rear of the clutch arm sticks our of the transmission 1/2" prohibiting the installation of the puck, etc. I've pulled it apart again to see if I misaligned something but ??????- same problem.
Any thoughts?
Appreciate your help.
Thanks. Some of the gloves are latex, sometimes nitrile. Depends on the availability of the heavy-duty latex gloves.
Wow I wish you had these up last summer when I was working on my 77 R100. I am glad to see that I did it right with just the Clymer manual. BTW, what kind of gloves do you guys use? Are they latex?
Hi Chris, thanks firstly for all your time and effort producing these videos,very informative and old school approach! My question is how to remove a stripped filler plug on an R60/6 drive shaft??? Any help much appreciated,thanks,Marko
Get under it with a flat-blade driver or such to add upwards tension as you unscrew it. Short of that chop the head off and unscrew the treads from the swingarm. Good luck, Mark.
Can you possibly post a visual of your tank holder? Thanks.
hi Chris what you think the brake rotors that come with no hub like the BW01FI - Round Brake Rotor have you done a clip on rotors
Chris,
Who makes the feeler gauges you are using to measure the drive shaft?
Hi Mr Chris, Im having a year 2013 Gs1200adv and I've done 40,000km on it. Do I need to do the spline lube on this newer model GS at this milage? Thanks.
Re: the drilled negative terminal bolt. Better way to vent would be to drill the bolt between the air box and the transmission. Vents filtered air and is out of the weather
Hey man Nice videos!
I have one question. I have a 1983 R100RT and i installed 120/90/18 Tire on the back wheel can you please tell me what is a normal gap on the brake side of the bike between rear swing arm and a tire because it looks way too close or maybe it's suppose to be distance i have looks like 1mm to 2.5mm
Timmy, In the rear wheel parts fiche see item #5 - right side wheel spacer (BMW calls it a 'sleeve'). Remove and measure it. If it is 9.2 mm it is for the OEM 4.00-18 tire. You need the 10.7 mm spacer to run a 120/80-18 tire. Good luck, Chris
Thank you
Timmy Timmithy You're welcome. Happy New Year, Chris
Same to you
I would have taken the tank off - removal of airbox and filter would have been easier possibly?
Correct, thanks. But is doesn't matter. It is a useless, ridiculous answer to a question that no one ever asked. It shouldn't have been there in the first place and it makes airbox removal much more time consuming. Thanks again, Chris
BMW had that shit on US models (1976?) before CA mandated it (for motorcycles). That's BMW's idea of 'innovative' and cutting edge! Just like the goofy catalytic converter that doesn't do shit and that no one asked for (1990-1997 K bikes for instance).