The important thing is that you had a plan for how you wanted to run and built the engine for how you wanted to run. I couldn't resist adding a cam while I had my 196 open. I only run to 5K RPM governed but still wanted a little extra power and got a CL1 original. $38 cam. It's just a stock lift cam with more duration for extra torque and works with stock valve springs. You don't have to go big with a cam if you don't need to.
@@gustavoramirez1446 It's best to find out what works well for others and why before choosing a cam. Once you choose a cam they will recommend the spings to use. With a Mikuni you could use more cam than the CL1.
Deucealive75 for sure bro, I’m not tryna go all out but have a simple fun bike, would valve springs effect it? If so which valve springs do you suggest for my setup since it isn’t fully built
@@gustavoramirez1446 I would recommend stock springs until you get a billet rod and flywheel for it so it can safely handle ungoverned RPM. Some guys take the risk and go right to 18 pound valve springs to get higher than valve float RPM. At least get a $40 cast aluminum flywheel if you are going to run higher than 5500 RPM.
Bro you really need a performance cam to wake up that engine at least a mild $50 cam. I would suggest the “mongoose” cam and 26lbs spring from NR racing if your on a budget, trust me it’s well worth it.
I think you should leave it the way you want it, if it works for you more power to you no pun intended. I admire you for being able to build something nice and not spend a lot of money, not everyone has all the time and money in the world to throw a bunch of parts at a build and still risking the engine to blow up. I like my set ups to be stock for reliability purposes I like to enjoy riding and not fixing often, thanks for the video hope to hear it run on your next video ride safe.
@@JulDeeMotorSports making the intake Port smooth does actually hurt performance. You can get rid of the extra flash and open it up but it needs to retain a rough finish to help with the atomization of fuel.
The reason most people remove the oil sensor has nothing to do with it coming loose and creating an oil leak nothing at all to do with that the reason they remove the oil sensor is so when you are on hard acceleration it doesn't push all the oil to the back of the engine and make it cut out because there is no oil on the sensor
And the reason most people remove the Governor gear inside the engine is so it doesn't come apart and cause your performance parts to be destroyed it is awesome that you took the time to build your own engine but but you have the reasons backwards the governor is removed for reliability and the oil sensors are removed for performance reasons many other people building these engines they don't really know why they're doing certain things they're just copying other people and think they know why they're doing it upgrade job on the build
You don't need a catch can. Drill a 3/8" hole between the lifters and use the valve cover as a catch can. Just use an exit line with a one way valve on the end. Your done... Great video..
Why do you need to put 2 lines for venting the crank case in to the head cover and then 2 lines to vent to a catch can? Won't 1 line, or 1 larger line, do the same job and be half the work and half the potential for failure down the road?
I just run 2 into1 vent line with a large diameter up to triple tree area with a gauze filter. No catch can needed as oil doesn't seem to climb that high anyway. Catch cams are only for race tracks
Stiffer springs just eat HP, if the valves are controlled with lighter springs , it will make more power! So no valve float, no need for stiff springs, on my scooter, I just add a shim under the springs, and spin well over 10k rpm, just like lighter, less friction, makes more power! So just stuff enough will make the most power...
All what power? The 212 is 6.5hp base. The minimum upgrades here are not going to add much to that. If he's lucky he's getting 10hp but I'd be surprised if its hitting 10. He keeps mentioning getting the speed he wants and the title says 80mph but thats a pipe dream. With the engine built as is there is no 80mph happening, no ways no how!
@@bigcconservativeguy2534 hes easily hitting 15hp, a chinese mikuni and exhaust is 13hp, + his compression ratio and springs is upped so hes hitting 15 maybe 16 hp
@@JulDeeMotorSports looks nice I'm building a ducar 212 right now my 212 pro on stock 10/53 gear and stock ducar 212 hit 55 pulling governor and 22mm right now should be fun I'm shooting for 80 but on a mm80 frame
The porting is huge for more power and flow. I would be interested in how you port your engine. A lot of power can be made with the right port job done. This would make for a great video. Thank you.
lol, I asked the same thing when i got the carb. They are just overflow lines, so if the bike is on its side, instead of the carb flooding, the gas will leak out of the tubes so make sure it won't overflood.
@@eliastrejo5989 To be honest that is the one topic I did not look into as I was not interested in a Cam. But I went with 18lb springs if I am not wrong, I think I said it in the video.
alot of people get this wrong, but welding the head or gettting a flat top piston or smaller head gasket will not increase compression, it will stay the same, its all about compression ratio. without a stroker crankshaft all those very expensive parts will be useless. the first thing to get is the stroker crankshaft then add all the parts on top of it.
Hahaha! 🤡 It's not a two stroke, and even then you don't just "port" you have to know where and why? Do you know what a degree wheel is? Find out if you don't.
@@m.kasper7646 Very very few guys use a timing wheel when building these engines. Because the timing on these are fairly well known. The expensive flywheels come with extra timing built in and match many cams recommended timing. You could verify cam specs with a timing wheel but you are pretty much wasting your time. These engines are nothing new and there's a long track record of successful builds by amateurs without the use of a timing wheel.
The important thing is that you had a plan for how you wanted to run and built the engine for how you wanted to run.
I couldn't resist adding a cam while I had my 196 open. I only run to 5K RPM governed but still wanted a little extra power and got a CL1 original. $38 cam. It's just a stock lift cam with more duration for extra torque and works with stock valve springs. You don't have to go big with a cam if you don't need to.
I have a stock 212 with governor removed and a mikuni carburetor, is it better to put one of those cl1 cams and 22lb valve springs ?
@@gustavoramirez1446 It's best to find out what works well for others and why before choosing a cam. Once you choose a cam they will recommend the spings to use. With a Mikuni you could use more cam than the CL1.
Deucealive75 for sure bro, I’m not tryna go all out but have a simple fun bike, would valve springs effect it? If so which valve springs do you suggest for my setup since it isn’t fully built
@@gustavoramirez1446 I would recommend stock springs until you get a billet rod and flywheel for it so it can safely handle ungoverned RPM.
Some guys take the risk and go right to 18 pound valve springs to get higher than valve float RPM.
At least get a $40 cast aluminum flywheel if you are going to run higher than 5500 RPM.
Go big or go home
Bro you really need a performance cam to wake up that engine at least a mild $50 cam. I would suggest the “mongoose” cam and 26lbs spring from NR racing if your on a budget, trust me it’s well worth it.
What is your opinion on the 252 Rattlesnake cam that NR racing sells?
@@Deucealive75 seems like a really nice cam for the money. it should have some good torque and nice top end power.
@@TOXIC-hb7rc Thanks.
@@Deucealive75 it's the best cam for 49.00 dollars
Yo I got a question
I think you should leave it the way you want it, if it works for you more power to you no pun intended. I admire you for being able to build something nice and not spend a lot of money, not everyone has all the time and money in the world to throw a bunch of parts at a build and still risking the engine to blow up. I like my set ups to be stock for reliability purposes I like to enjoy riding and not fixing often, thanks for the video hope to hear it run on your next video ride safe.
Interesting with the vent, from side to head to catch, when im building my piece, im also gonna do this, nice built btw!
I would suggest a 265 cam and add a one way valve to the oil catch can.
256 to small
Smart, fun build. Let's see it go!
You did a few things that are counter productive.
u mean the porting?
@@JulDeeMotorSports that's one, yes.
@@morgankovarik3649 ehh, doesn't hurt doesn't help much either but it was free. But I did it when head was new incase I wanted to get a big cam
@@JulDeeMotorSports making the intake Port smooth does actually hurt performance. You can get rid of the extra flash and open it up but it needs to retain a rough finish to help with the atomization of fuel.
@@morgankovarik3649 Yea, My intake is rough and my exhaust port is polished
The reason most people remove the oil sensor has nothing to do with it coming loose and creating an oil leak nothing at all to do with that the reason they remove the oil sensor is so when you are on hard acceleration it doesn't push all the oil to the back of the engine and make it cut out because there is no oil on the sensor
It's not the engine that gives up to 80mph it's the total setup the chassis the gear ratio it's a combination as a hole.
Hey I might build a 212 and love your engine if you can could you maybe send some links to the upgrades on the engine
Thanks 😁
And the reason most people remove the Governor gear inside the engine is so it doesn't come apart and cause your performance parts to be destroyed it is awesome that you took the time to build your own engine but but you have the reasons backwards the governor is removed for reliability and the oil sensors are removed for performance reasons many other people building these engines they don't really know why they're doing certain things they're just copying other people and think they know why they're doing it upgrade job on the build
You don't need a catch can.
Drill a 3/8" hole between the lifters and use the valve cover as a catch can. Just use an exit line with a one way valve on the end. Your done...
Great video..
thanks
Removing the oil sensor also slows it to hold more oil
Heck yea looks awesome I just don’t think the catch can part is necessary but the vent is smart
Sticker add house power I was always told that lol
very true lmao
@@JulDeeMotorSports 🤣😂
Since u asked I'ma tell you if u drop a valvue say goodbye to your engine and hemi piston .. that's why I should change the valvue springs ..
the valve springs are changed...... I have 18lb springs in
You did a really nice job here man
thanks
Why do you need to put 2 lines for venting the crank case in to the head cover and then 2 lines to vent to a catch can? Won't 1 line, or 1 larger line, do the same job and be half the work and half the potential for failure down the road?
1 line will work. Personally I like the look of 2 lines and I wanted to copy the billet side cover which also allows two lines.
I just run 2 into1 vent line with a large diameter up to triple tree area with a gauze filter. No catch can needed as oil doesn't seem to climb that high anyway. Catch cams are only for race tracks
Badass man it looks clean 🙌🏽
dont need a cam because you want to get bigger springs
Stiffer springs just eat HP, if the valves are controlled with lighter springs , it will make more power! So no valve float, no need for stiff springs, on my scooter, I just add a shim under the springs, and spin well over 10k rpm, just like lighter, less friction, makes more power! So just stuff enough will make the most power...
So you suggest sticking to stock?
What size head gasket did you use with the flat top piston and extended rod? Or just oem gasket?
He said .027 inch
why do people think 80mph is out of the question its all about gearing and rpm im sure it coulddo 80 with the right gearing
Size valve n carb bro?
those breather tubes are FAT bro
How much is the payment for the honda 16hp engine?
what clutch are you running on this?
It’s the Hilliard I think 10t
Video on how you built it?
is the cam stock?
yea, didn't really need to pay the extra money for something that is not useful to me
Dude where are you going to find a centrifugal clutch or torque converter thats gunna handle all that power? This looks sick!
Not hard with the minimal power upgrades done
All what power? The 212 is 6.5hp base. The minimum upgrades here are not going to add much to that. If he's lucky he's getting 10hp but I'd be surprised if its hitting 10. He keeps mentioning getting the speed he wants and the title says 80mph but thats a pipe dream. With the engine built as is there is no 80mph happening, no ways no how!
@@bigcconservativeguy2534 hes easily hitting 15hp, a chinese mikuni and exhaust is 13hp, + his compression ratio and springs is upped so hes hitting 15 maybe 16 hp
What kinds rpm are you seeing with this
what cam did you run
Can you make a video detail by detail
I mean, its already done but I just looked up the tutorial for each part i mentioned. I could maybe do one on jetting and venting if anyone needed it.
@@JulDeeMotorSports looks nice I'm building a ducar 212 right now my 212 pro on stock 10/53 gear and stock ducar 212 hit 55 pulling governor and 22mm right now should be fun I'm shooting for 80 but on a mm80 frame
@@heathenprojects2639 mm80 for 80!!! Woah that's fast!!!!
The porting is huge for more power and flow.
I would be interested in how you port your engine.
A lot of power can be made with the right port job done.
This would make for a great video.
Thank you.
Can you send a link for the sticker kit u used
What size carb jet?
I'm a noob I know but what do the two lines hanging from the carb go to
lol, I asked the same thing when i got the carb. They are just overflow lines, so if the bike is on its side, instead of the carb flooding, the gas will leak out of the tubes so make sure it won't overflood.
What do you think is the most useful mod to go faster
1. Gear ratio change (I have a video on this)
2. Heavier springs
3. Carb
4. Big Cam
@@JulDeeMotorSportsthanks!... what's a good cam and a good valve spring lb?
@@eliastrejo5989 To be honest that is the one topic I did not look into as I was not interested in a Cam. But I went with 18lb springs if I am not wrong, I think I said it in the video.
@@JulDeeMotorSports ok thanks man
@@eliastrejo5989 265 Cam will make your bike RIP !! ;)
Can we get the link to that white head cover thing please?
the side cover?
Yes
Bro I need that part list.
in the description
What kind of clutch is that? If you don’t mind me asking..
Hillard #420
Thank you
Is this on regular pump gas 91 or e85
regular, not a race engine
If you didn’t vent it what would happen to the motor with the extended rod?
I've heard of someone blowing his piston ring because too much compression with a flat top piston and long rod.
@@JulDeeMotorSports and what would happen if i used a thicker gasket say 0.45? Would it run smooth?
@@ayo5548 I think you would be alright. I used the thinner one for more compression
@@JulDeeMotorSports thanks. Just did my first startup today ran great for my first build I built myself
@@ayo5548 did you copy this build?
What cam is in here
Stock Cam
Would you get the same results from a hemi?
So what arc rod # did u use in the build with the flat top
alot of people get this wrong, but welding the head or gettting a flat top piston or smaller head gasket will not increase compression, it will stay the same, its all about compression ratio.
without a stroker crankshaft all those very expensive parts will be useless. the first thing to get is the stroker crankshaft then add all the parts on top of it.
😂yes it does having 30 thow less head gasket adds compression u might wanna check your facts
That's exactly why people try to get zero deck high with race engines it raises compression
1 50 dollers 😂😂😂
At least port the intake and exaust
i did though.....
Hahaha! 🤡 It's not a two stroke, and even then you don't just "port" you have to know where and why? Do you know what a degree wheel is? Find out if you don't.
@@m.kasper7646 Very very few guys use a timing wheel when building these engines. Because the timing on these are fairly well known. The expensive flywheels come with extra timing built in and match many cams recommended timing. You could verify cam specs with a timing wheel but you are pretty much wasting your time.
These engines are nothing new and there's a long track record of successful builds by amateurs without the use of a timing wheel.
No camshaft?