Thanks a lot for an informative video. I have a '64 Mustang coupe. Previous owner tried "shaving" the drip rail and managed to butcher the part running up the A pillar. Now I see how I can repair the butchery. Thanks!
So did this workout for you? I have a 66’ I wasn’t sure if the drip rail was the same and if the Fastback one would work because for whatever reason they don’t make the replacement drip rail for coupes…
One year later, but for your effort, there's a thing called a " spot weld drill bit ". Not the cutters, a bit. It looks much like a wood drill, but for these pesky welds. You spot the center, and then drill the upper layer. They work excellently after you've done one or two to figure out their game. Far better than the noisy wheels and superior to the cutters which almost always take more than you want.
Also, for stuff like this, whilst i am from Europe, and mileage may vary, as they say, i managed to get bespoke parts (like that drip rail) made for cheap (in comparison with importing original parts or buying new ones) from local business. Always worth investigating what's around you because with a good word, they can make just about anything within reason.
Thanks for the video. I have a 75 Maverick im going to do this to the person that owned the car before me used no seam sealer it seams like its getting pretty rusty. thanks
Good repair on it hope the rest goes ok can you skin the door or just cut out the rust like you did on the one mustang on the bottom that was a nice fix.
Hey Barry, question about welding panels. With your setup/welder are you using mig or flux? I want to fix my panels my flux machine, but I’m having second thoughts on whether I need a whole new machine...
Does the drip rail form, or join, the roof panel or is it just welded to the door sill to only mount the chrome trim? I was thinking about removing the drip rail on my car to give it a cleaner look. Thanks and awesome work!
The drip rail assembly goes under the edge of the roof, and it is sandwiched together. You can remove it, but you will end up with some sort of flange sticking out where they all meet.
Thanks for doing this. Very informative. I have a similar issue on my 66 but across the top have pitting on the roof skin where it meets the drip rail... have you had to address this or what would you recommend?
Hi, this is Elijah again from NEW ZEALAND. two questions I would like to ask, if the panel witch got the vin nomber on is badly rusted wat do you do with the vin nomber, if vin nomber is on a plate that is pop rivited to panel and you have to fit a new panel wat pop rivits must you use, here in NEW ZEALAND the new zealand road agency is very stricked abought that. Wat do you think I must do. I love the way you chopped up that convertable mustang and built that mustang from scratch, I took good note wat you were doing, BUT why did you not get a compleet shell you can buy them now. I am still waiting for vedeo no 26 of the 1968 mustang with rebuild engine.
'Hi Elijah. That is a good question. I have heard of people restamping the vin in a new panel. But I don't know for sure. As far as pop rivets, again they are available, but I don' have a source. I/we chose to build the convertible rather than buy one. It was about half the price that way, and that included all the front sheet metal.
It's tough coming across video showing drip rail repair. Once you welded on the drip rail, what did you do to seal the point at which new drip rail meets the pillar? It seems that area would be prone to water getting in and then having rust issues all over again. Also, care to share your compressor make and model?
I use to have a 67 coupe but was stupid and sold it back in 1992. Was looking for another project Mustang but the ones I have seen here in the Dallas area are way over priced in my opinion. I have seen junked out Mustangs where the upholstery is shot and no engine for $3500. Just wondering if this seems like the right price these old Mustangs are going for. Thanks, Roy
Thanks, that what I have been finding out myself. Maybe I will get lucky and find another one someday, just keep my eyes open for one. Good luck with yours.
What welder do you use for all of your repairs? I am just getting into rust repair as i own a 66 coupe and would love to do the repair work myself. I realize that I will need to practice for a while before I attempt the floor pans...etc. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your reply. I love your videos as I am trying to restore my mustang as much by myself as I can. I will practice a lot before making an attempt on the car. Thank you for the prompt and helpful reply.
Hello JoDaddy. When you say rust sealer ,do you mean Killer converter ?. I have been doing some test with Permatex rust converter I applied and left the part in the weather it's been two weeks and no rust back yet and has it can be primed and painted over it should be a useful tool in the battle against rust. Just thought I would share my findings with you and the viewers. All my best. Bobby
Man I can't stand what Ford will not do with these classic cars. They will not release the patent so exact parts can be made. All repop parts have defects to them so as not to infringe on copyrights.
i’ve got same car same problem glad to know getting the parts is a waste of time and money thanks.
As always, another incredible example of sharing your experience and current findings. Sending you a PM. Thank you!
Where did you send PM?
I actually sent you an email, based on a previous conversation... Let me know if you didn't get it.
Thanks a lot for an informative video. I have a '64 Mustang coupe. Previous owner tried "shaving" the drip rail and managed to butcher the part running up the A pillar. Now I see how I can repair the butchery. Thanks!
So did this workout for you? I have a 66’ I wasn’t sure if the drip rail was the same and if the Fastback one would work because for whatever reason they don’t make the replacement drip rail for coupes…
Drip rails always look like a real pain in the butt to do but you make it look quite easy.
hi barry nice work .very well dun
Thank you
One year later, but for your effort, there's a thing called a " spot weld drill bit ". Not the cutters, a bit. It looks much like a wood drill, but for these pesky welds. You spot the center, and then drill the upper layer. They work excellently after you've done one or two to figure out their game.
Far better than the noisy wheels and superior to the cutters which almost always take more than you want.
Also, for stuff like this, whilst i am from Europe, and mileage may vary, as they say, i managed to get bespoke parts (like that drip rail) made for cheap (in comparison with importing original parts or buying new ones) from local business. Always worth investigating what's around you because with a good word, they can make just about anything within reason.
Yep. I've used them before. Had mixed results. I also had a spot drill gun at the body shop. Really good tool. Maybe I'll get another one someday.
Nice work Jo
Interesting repair
Thanks for the video. I have a 75 Maverick im going to do this to the person that owned the car before me used no seam sealer it seams like its getting pretty rusty. thanks
Nice repair.
Good repair on it hope the rest goes ok can you skin the door or just cut out the rust like you did on the one mustang on the bottom that was a nice fix.
The rest of the door was perfect. I've already treated, and installed a patch.
Nice work.
Great videos man I'm learning a lot between you and Pete from swrnc difference is your videos has a lot less cussing LOL
Can you do a video of a total drip rail removal without replacing it I really like the clean look of no drip rails on a old car
Yeah, cussing is not helpful, or user friendly.
No plans to do that.... Never know.
made this same mistake and ordered the fastback drip rail.. so much for that money... had to come review how the roof channel attached.
Can't help but wonder what you did to the strut tower braces... Did you just chop them off and call it good? Wondering for my own
I did not chop them off. Everything is in place as original.
Hey Barry, question about welding panels. With your setup/welder are you using mig or flux? I want to fix my panels my flux machine, but I’m having second thoughts on whether I need a whole new machine...
I only use a mig. No flux core for panels.
Does the drip rail form, or join, the roof panel or is it just welded to the door sill to only mount the chrome trim? I was thinking about removing the drip rail on my car to give it a cleaner look. Thanks and awesome work!
The drip rail assembly goes under the edge of the roof, and it is sandwiched together. You can remove it, but you will end up with some sort of flange sticking out where they all meet.
Thanks for doing this. Very informative. I have a similar issue on my 66 but across the top have pitting on the roof skin where it meets the drip rail... have you had to address this or what would you recommend?
I have not had to address that. The drip rail for the 65-66 cars actually goes under the roof skin. Difficult to repair.
Nice repair! Are you going to be putting the vinyl top back on?
No. It would look good, but I think I'll go without.
Hi, this is Elijah again from NEW ZEALAND. two questions I would like to ask, if the panel witch got the vin nomber on is badly rusted wat do you do with the vin nomber, if vin nomber is on a plate that is pop rivited to panel and you have to fit a new panel wat pop rivits must you use, here in NEW ZEALAND the new zealand road agency is very stricked abought that. Wat do you think I must do. I love the way you chopped up that convertable mustang and built that mustang from scratch, I took good note wat you were doing, BUT why did you not get a compleet shell you can buy them now. I am still waiting for vedeo no 26 of the 1968 mustang with rebuild engine.
'Hi Elijah. That is a good question. I have heard of people restamping the vin in a new panel. But I don't know for sure. As far as pop rivets, again they are available, but I don' have a source. I/we chose to build the convertible rather than buy one. It was about half the price that way, and that included all the front sheet metal.
What’s the color code for that blue I try to find out for my 67
It's tough coming across video showing drip rail repair. Once you welded on the drip rail, what did you do to seal the point at which new drip rail meets the pillar? It seems that area would be prone to water getting in and then having rust issues all over again. Also, care to share your compressor make and model?
I will be adding a seam sealer in the channel. I recently sprayed epoxy on this car.
I use to have a 67 coupe but was stupid and sold it back in 1992. Was looking for another project Mustang but the ones I have seen here in the Dallas area are way over priced in my opinion. I have seen junked out Mustangs where the upholstery is shot and no engine for $3500. Just wondering if this seems like the right price these old Mustangs are going for. Thanks, Roy
Depends on the year, and what condition it's in. I've seen really bad stuff going for $2500 and up.
Thanks, that what I have been finding out myself. Maybe I will get lucky and find another one someday, just keep my eyes open for one. Good luck with yours.
What welder do you use for all of your repairs? I am just getting into rust repair as i own a 66 coupe and would love to do the repair work myself. I realize that I will need to practice for a while before I attempt the floor pans...etc. Thanks!
I currently use a Lincoln 140T wire feed gas welder. It is 120 volt, and handles everything I do fine. There are other brands available.
Thank you very much for your reply. I love your videos as I am trying to restore my mustang as much by myself as I can. I will practice a lot before making an attempt on the car. Thank you for the prompt and helpful reply.
Hello JoDaddy. When you say rust sealer ,do you mean Killer converter ?. I have been doing some test with Permatex rust converter I applied and left the part in the weather it's been two weeks and no rust back yet and has it can be primed and painted over it should be a useful tool in the battle against rust. Just thought I would share my findings with you and the viewers.
All my best.
Bobby
Yes, a rust converter.
May I ask what brand you use ?. And thank you very much for the fast reply.
I am testing the Permatex 81773 treatment.
Hi I have used it and my results weren't to great. Thank you for the tip.The Eastwood product I haven't tried have you tried it ?.
All my best.
Bobby
I have used several. Currently I'm using Purple Power. www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_de-ruster.html
Thank you Jo Daddy.But the product seems to no longer be in stock, I even checked Ebay no luck there. All my best.
Bobby
That repair section was almost more hassle than it was worth. I would of been sorely tempted to make my own repair section up?
That's why I posted this. Now people can see and make their own decision.
Thank you sir!
I've just made drip rails for my fordson van easy and cheap was this not an option for you I light of the aftermarket product issues
I would have made my own had I known...
What is the best way to remove the drip rail trim without causing damage?
ua-cam.com/video/MP91XXSzoaE/v-deo.html
I have a different question. How can I remove the rear glass upper chrome molding? Thank you, Tony
I have a tool very similar to this one, and have had good luck with it. www.classicindustries.com/product/y35200.html
This may work too. www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25338
@@JoDaddysGarage Thank you very much. I do this going in from the bottom, correct? Tony
I have to do the same to my 67
Man I can't stand what Ford will not do with these classic cars. They will not release the patent so exact parts can be made. All repop parts have defects to them so as not to infringe on copyrights.
was here..
When you treat the metal do primer over it and can you spot weld through the primer and rust killer ?
I treat, add weld thru primer, and hope for the best. Really no way around it.
It should be the 4rth letter in the drivers door
"F" Gulf Stream Auqa.
Lip is taller because it had a vinyl top.