These videos are great, I’m a ford person and being 18 I took a huge risk. I bought my 3rd vehicle and that is a 68 mustang. It needs a ton of work and I’m very excited to work on it with my dad, these videos have helped him and I a ton, thank you!
Still working on my 68 California special. Since then we have done the whole trunk area, floor pans, and soon the core support. Thanks Jo, you’re the man.
Thanks for taking the time to video and upload these to youtube. I'm 16 years old and I bought a 1968 Mustang for my second car as a restoration project. I think I'd be lost if I didn't have your videos.
CJ Armour You just made my day. That's really the whole purpose in making theses videos. I'm so glad to hear a 16 year old is involved and willing to take on the task. Please keep me posted on your progress.
I wish I had your patience and skill. I'm looking at the same problem. Tork box l don't dare touch. Cause of difficulty you shown. Pointing to the welds is helpful when I'm staring at a sea of rust! Keep up the good work.
I watch your videos like a Sunday sermon. I just took out the passenger side torque box in a 1970 and laughed when you said .. If your replacing the torque box you better be serious, it's a challenge. . Dang I was on that longer than I thought. But you helped me get thru it Thanks
Thank you so much for posting this video. I just got a 68 that needs frame rails,floor pans,torque boxes and rockers this video game me a great starting point. This will be a father daughter project so we want to do as much as we can once again thanks
I am in the process of doing the same work on a 1970 Mercury Cougar. Where did you put the floor jacks n the front of the car? I am told the car should be totally off the ground and level. I have found instances where front frame meets what appears to be a cross member at the middle of the engine is a good place. There is a spot behind the sway bar where the lower control arm is hooked up. Does this sound right?
I had them close to the sway bar mount. Of course, there is no engine in the car which helps. You could also put jack stands under the pinch weld of the rocker panels at the rear. Level and rigid are the way to go.
I'm in the middle of the same job on my 68 cougar. They all rust there. For the end of the front rail that slips into the floor support I bought a 3 sided repair section from mustangs unlimited for less then $15
Finally have gotten to part on my car -- Started in front passenger corner and going around the car... came for wisdom on how to take it out, I did watch this before, but forgot about drilling out the spot welds...the plan is to have ALL the welding done by Monday...and have it running by Christmas... And this Mustang is not that bad, and yes, if it is old and classic, special, unique, different, or we just like them, we should try to save them....guy I know does Models As. Why ? Because he likes them...
Jo Daddy's Garage Ok I loaded some photos and made a slide show and picked generic music - only 45 seconds...I started with front passenger corner and I am going clockwise around the 67. ..not sure how to attach it here...
Why build a house or have one built when you could just buy one already built ? Part of being a car guy is getting dirty and honing repair and fabrication skills!! This is the fun dude...
Thanks, sounds good. I have started with my floor and torque box. Biggest issue is breaking the spot welds with my cutter. I bought some from Harbor freight. It doesn't seem to go through the metal on the torque box or the attaching body metal. What specific spot weld cutter do you use? I appreciate your feedback. You do excellent work.
Hey, on the torque box when you drill the spot welds out to put it together in the the car, this may sound stupid, but if the what is the backing when spot welding it back together? Is there a strip of metal in between holding them to eachother? Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for your feedback. Great work. I have a question, when you repair the frame with the plates that the floor supports weld to, how thick should the metal be? Also what will you coat them with to avoid rusting?
Before applying seam sealer make sure u prime. Sealer will shrink back & crack then moisture will rust the bare metal underneath.Not picking. Just sharing. U do good work. Also u do spray weld thru primer between panels to be welded right?
I always apply self-etch primer to any bare metal areas after welding. I also use Evercoat brushable seam sealer and it seems to maintain shape and adheres very well. I use weld thru primer in certain areas.Living in the south has its advantages.
I like the calm time of your voice even if I cannot understand how you can speak so calmly! I have fully dismantled and repaired a car 90 percent better than this one and I have just wanted to smash it. Nevertheless, great videos and explanation!
I seem to get this kind of response a lot. For me there's no value in allowing myself to get frustrated. I tend to thrive on solving problems. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for this video! I'm getting ready to do this to my '70 - how are you supporting the car? Since this is structural, do I need to brace the car in a certain way to keep from welding her back together all crooked? Thank you sir.
It depends a lot on the rest of the cars structure. If you have a coupe, they are easier. I have jack stands at the front, rear, and if I remember in the middle. The pinch welds under the rocker panels are pretty tough. Just do one side at a time. If the engine and transmission are out, that's even better. A lot less weight to worry about.
Thanks for putting this video together, but now I'm a bit worried that I may have the same issue. When I tackle all of this, can I leave my engine in and still have enough frame support to hold the car up? Or do I need to support it anywhere?
MrGerkman I did it with the engine and tranny out. If you only did one side at a time, and had everything well supported, you could leave the engine in. It does make it easier with it out though. Especially if you have to work the floor pans.
I bought the complete assembly, after opening up the front sheet metal there was no way that this was at full strength as a unit....Even reinstalling a six cylinder Im saying that was marginal at best...I installed a 351w and AOD has to have every nickel of strength. Doing it right the first time and yes this was costly but strong runner.
So what's the point of the torque box? 65 and 66 didn't even have any. When I bought my 67 mustang, the previous owner took it out. Looks like he was going to replace it. But he got sick and passed away. Thus how I got the car. But the body work was done, and already repainted. Is it worth me doing all the work to put a torque box in, and have to repaint the car again? It's just a cruiser car.
The early cars were basically built on the falcon design. They were light weight and typically had a 6 cylinder engine. As the v8 engine became popular, engineers realized the potential for body twist from the torque. They initially added one on the passenger side, and added the driver’s side later. They make the car a lot more structurally sound overall. I can’t say it’s worth adding them back in your case. That’s up to you. Moving forward, any car I rebuild will have them.
@Jo Daddy's Garage thanks for replying. And I agree, that if I was doing the car myself, I would add them. But I would hate to have to repaint the car just for this. It would be different if I had big plans to soup it up. But I'm to old for that I just want a car to cruise and enjoy. Is there a safety concern if I don't put a torque box in? I mean, is the car going to buckle just from driving it normal down the road? I guess I'm just nervous about it. I need my nerves calmed.
Hi, I am about to install my drivers side torque box on my 1967 mustang. I see from the factory they installed the top part of the torque box above the frame rail flange like you did in the video. However, wouldn't that cause the toe board to not sit flat on the frame rail? Since the torque box will add some height to one flange of the frame rail. I was considering plug welding it below the flange. What are your thoughts on this?
+coffeetoast967 I understand what you're saying, however, I would put everything back in the same location. I think the toe board is joggled slightly if I remember correctly. You can probably do it either way. Good, solid welds are the important part.
Does the toe board plug weld completely over the top of the torque box or does that area of the floor to firewall extension have to be cut out and seam welded to the torque box?
That additional support from the apron to the torque box- I don’t think that is on my 67- is that something you think would install okay & would be useful on a 67? Doesn’t seem like too much trouble to install...
this mustang is a mess its almost like your working for henry back in 68 but i guess everything will be like new when your done just wondering, does this car hold sentimental feelings for you, cuz dam this car is a mess ,
That's funny. I grew up with my dad having a junkyard, and I was surrounded by so many cars from the 50's and 60's. I'm emotionally attached to all the cars from this era. To me, all of these classics deserve a second chance. This one just happens to be one I picked up and decided to do. Probably going to give it to my wife when it's done. If you think this one is bad, check out the 65 Mustang I'm in the middle of now..... I really like the challenge.
These videos are great, I’m a ford person and being 18 I took a huge risk. I bought my 3rd vehicle and that is a 68 mustang. It needs a ton of work and I’m very excited to work on it with my dad, these videos have helped him and I a ton, thank you!
Still working on my 68 California special. Since then we have done the whole trunk area, floor pans, and soon the core support. Thanks Jo, you’re the man.
Thanks for taking the time to video and upload these to youtube. I'm 16 years old and I bought a 1968 Mustang for my second car as a restoration project. I think I'd be lost if I didn't have your videos.
CJ Armour You just made my day. That's really the whole purpose in making theses videos. I'm so glad to hear a 16 year old is involved and willing to take on the task. Please keep me posted on your progress.
I wish I had your patience and skill. I'm looking at the same problem. Tork box l don't dare touch. Cause of difficulty you shown. Pointing to the welds is helpful when I'm staring at a sea of rust! Keep up the good work.
I watch your videos like a Sunday sermon. I just took out the passenger side torque box in a 1970 and laughed when you said .. If your replacing the torque box you better be serious, it's a challenge. . Dang I was on that longer than I thought. But you helped me get thru it
Thanks
Thank you so much for posting this video. I just got a 68 that needs frame rails,floor pans,torque boxes and rockers this video game me a great starting point. This will be a father daughter project so we want to do as much as we can once again thanks
I use your videos for reference on my mustang projects. Your narration is excellent.
Thank you! I love building cars, and I like to share what I learn so others can do it as well.
I am in the process of doing the same work on a 1970 Mercury Cougar. Where did you put the floor jacks n the front of the car? I am told the car should be totally off the ground and level. I have found instances where front frame meets what appears to be a cross member at the middle of the engine is a good place. There is a spot behind the sway bar where the lower control arm is hooked up. Does this sound right?
I had them close to the sway bar mount. Of course, there is no engine in the car which helps. You could also put jack stands under the pinch weld of the rocker panels at the rear. Level and rigid are the way to go.
I'm in the middle of the same job on my 68 cougar. They all rust there. For the end of the front rail that slips into the floor support I bought a 3 sided repair section from mustangs unlimited for less then $15
I've seen those panels, I just didn't feel like waiting...
Finally have gotten to part on my car -- Started in front passenger corner and going around the car... came for wisdom on how to take it out, I did watch this before, but forgot about drilling out the spot welds...the plan is to have ALL the welding done by Monday...and have it running by Christmas... And this Mustang is not that bad, and yes, if it is old and classic, special, unique, different, or we just like them, we should try to save them....guy I know does Models As. Why ? Because he likes them...
DanTheManIOM Good deal. I'd like to see pics of your progress.
Jo Daddy's Garage Ok I loaded some photos and made a slide show and picked generic music - only 45 seconds...I started with front passenger corner and I am going clockwise around the 67. ..not sure how to attach it here...
Why build a house or have one built when you could just buy one already built ? Part of being a car guy is getting dirty and honing repair and fabrication skills!! This is the fun dude...
Yep. Have you seen all my restoration videos?
Nice work sir.
Glad I have a rust free California coupe.
Thanks, sounds good. I have started with my floor and torque box. Biggest issue is breaking the spot welds with my cutter. I bought some from Harbor freight. It doesn't seem to go through the metal on the torque box or the attaching body metal. What specific spot weld cutter do you use? I appreciate your feedback. You do excellent work.
I use these. Very tough. amzn.to/2Wi4hWe
@@JoDaddysGarage This is working perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
Hey, on the torque box when you drill the spot welds out to put it together in the the car, this may sound stupid, but if the what is the backing when spot welding it back together? Is there a strip of metal in between holding them to eachother? Thanks for the tips!
I just weld both holes shut at the same time.
Thanks for your feedback. Great work. I have a question, when you repair the frame with the plates that the floor supports weld to, how thick should the metal be? Also what will you coat them with to avoid rusting?
I try to match the original thickness. After rust treatment with an acid based product, I paint everything. Usually por-15
Before applying seam sealer make sure u prime. Sealer will shrink back & crack then moisture will rust the bare metal underneath.Not picking. Just sharing. U do good work. Also u do spray weld thru primer between panels to be welded right?
I always apply self-etch primer to any bare metal areas after welding. I also use Evercoat brushable seam sealer and it seems to maintain shape and adheres very well. I use weld thru primer in certain areas.Living in the south has its advantages.
You need to buy the torque boxes that are in 2 pieces, their a lot easier to install.
I like the calm time of your voice even if I cannot understand how you can speak so calmly! I have fully dismantled and repaired a car 90 percent better than this one and I have just wanted to smash it. Nevertheless, great videos and explanation!
I seem to get this kind of response a lot. For me there's no value in allowing myself to get frustrated. I tend to thrive on solving problems. Thanks for the comment.
@@JoDaddysGarage we should do like this for everything, not just cars. Impossible for most of us
I'm actually like this 99% of the time.
Thanks for this video! I'm getting ready to do this to my '70 - how are you supporting the car? Since this is structural, do I need to brace the car in a certain way to keep from welding her back together all crooked? Thank you sir.
It depends a lot on the rest of the cars structure. If you have a coupe, they are easier. I have jack stands at the front, rear, and if I remember in the middle. The pinch welds under the rocker panels are pretty tough. Just do one side at a time. If the engine and transmission are out, that's even better. A lot less weight to worry about.
Thanks for putting this video together, but now I'm a bit worried that I may have the same issue. When I tackle all of this, can I leave my engine in and still have enough frame support to hold the car up? Or do I need to support it anywhere?
MrGerkman I did it with the engine and tranny out. If you only did one side at a time, and had everything well supported, you could leave the engine in. It does make it easier with it out though. Especially if you have to work the floor pans.
i just realized that my 66 coupe doesn't have toe board torque boxes !!! ?? is this common ?
Most of them didn't have them.
I bought the complete assembly, after opening up the front sheet metal there was no way that this was at full strength as a unit....Even reinstalling a six cylinder Im saying that was marginal at best...I installed a 351w and AOD has to have every nickel of strength. Doing it right the first time and yes this was costly but strong runner.
So what's the point of the torque box? 65 and 66 didn't even have any. When I bought my 67 mustang, the previous owner took it out. Looks like he was going to replace it. But he got sick and passed away. Thus how I got the car. But the body work was done, and already repainted. Is it worth me doing all the work to put a torque box in, and have to repaint the car again? It's just a cruiser car.
The early cars were basically built on the falcon design. They were light weight and typically had a 6 cylinder engine. As the v8 engine became popular, engineers realized the potential for body twist from the torque. They initially added one on the passenger side, and added the driver’s side later. They make the car a lot more structurally sound overall. I can’t say it’s worth adding them back in your case. That’s up to you. Moving forward, any car I rebuild will have them.
@Jo Daddy's Garage thanks for replying. And I agree, that if I was doing the car myself, I would add them. But I would hate to have to repaint the car just for this. It would be different if I had big plans to soup it up. But I'm to old for that I just want a car to cruise and enjoy. Is there a safety concern if I don't put a torque box in? I mean, is the car going to buckle just from driving it normal down the road? I guess I'm just nervous about it. I need my nerves calmed.
Hi, I am about to install my drivers side torque box on my 1967 mustang. I see from the factory they installed the top part of the torque box above the frame rail flange like you did in the video. However, wouldn't that cause the toe board to not sit flat on the frame rail? Since the torque box will add some height to one flange of the frame rail. I was considering plug welding it below the flange. What are your thoughts on this?
+coffeetoast967 I understand what you're saying, however, I would put everything back in the same location. I think the toe board is joggled slightly if I remember correctly. You can probably do it either way. Good, solid welds are the important part.
Does the toe board plug weld completely over the top of the torque box or does that area of the floor to firewall extension have to be cut out and seam welded to the torque box?
That additional support from the apron to the torque box- I don’t think that is on my 67- is that something you think would install okay & would be useful on a 67? Doesn’t seem like too much trouble to install...
You can add it. Just a little more strength.
Jo Daddy's Garage perfect- thank you much
Not just easier to sell the car as a runner and then buy a car with little to no rust? Tons of work to do this!
Who's to say the next one just has the same but hidden?
Jo Daddy's Garage Well, I guess that is where your experience helps you avoid.
I’m looking for a 6cyl car. Something nice but with no museum value.
The torque box on my 69 was easier to remove. I just kicked it and it fell off:)
Lol!
Were are you located I need some work done
I'm South of Atlanta
Part of that video the metal looked like a smalley key face
this mustang is a mess its almost like your working for henry back in 68 but i guess everything will be like new when your done just wondering, does this car hold sentimental feelings for you, cuz dam this car is a mess
,
That's funny. I grew up with my dad having a junkyard, and I was surrounded by so many cars from the 50's and 60's. I'm emotionally attached to all the cars from this era. To me, all of these classics deserve a second chance. This one just happens to be one I picked up and decided to do. Probably going to give it to my wife when it's done. If you think this one is bad, check out the 65 Mustang I'm in the middle of now..... I really like the challenge.
well your doing a hell of a job and your wifes going to love it when your done